Stella Quilt Blanket

By Laura Penrose
For Anna,
without whom this pattern would still be just an idea.
Gauge: 21 sts x 42 rows = 10 x 10cm / 4 x 4”
Garter Stitch worked flat, blocked Terminology

Yarn: DK or Fingering/4ply held double Motif

Amounts depend on configuration,
see ‘Planning’ section Square

Needles: 4 mm straight or circular needle,

Triangle
or needle required to meet gauge
Accessories: Embroidery needle, scissors

Modular Construction
Starting at the bottom right corner, the first motif is worked. The next motif is then added to
one side of the previously worked motif using joining methods described. Continue adding motifs
in your chosen order until blanket is complete. This method is great if you don’t like seaming
however your project will be a lot less portable and turning the work can become difficult and
a strain on the wrists.

Seamed Construction
Each motif is worked separately and then seamed together using knitting needle or crochet hook,
no hand sewing here! This method is great if you’re not sure which order you’d like to place your
motifs and you’d like a more portable project.

Gauge and yarn

It is important to make sure you have the correct gauge, otherwise you may run out of yarn,
fortunately you can use your base square as a gauge swatch. Ultimately, you can work this blanket
at any gauge, however if you intend to use your yarns in the way described, you will need
to match the given gauge or modify the stitch counts accordingly (guidance given throughout).

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When choosing a MC, make sure it is something readily available with consistant dye lots, in case
you need extra. The sample uses Filcolana Arewtta (held double) in the shade 101. Yarn from a cone is
also a great option.

Planning
To differentiate between small (S) and large (L) motifs throughout this pattern, you will see two sets
of numbers, the first reffering to the small motifs, the second in parenthesis referring to the larger
motifs, eg. 10 (16)g, 33 (41) sts. You will need to follow the amounts for the small motifs if you
would like to make a baby size blanket. The sample is made using the large motifs and is Throw
Rectangle size.

The small size motifs have been designed to make the most of 10-20g mini skeins and small
scraps. The large motifs have been designed to make the most of your single 100g fingering or
DK weight skeins, along with scrap and advent yarns. The order in which you place your motifs is
completely up to you and will make a truly unique heirloom blanket for you to enjoy and pass on.
Use the sheets at the end of the pattern to plan your blanket, or live life on the edge and make it
up as you go along!

You can also watch the FAQ video on YouTube which covers building your blanket and answers any
questions you might have. The video can be found HERE (https://youtu.be/miNAhAis7ao)

Yarn amounts
Each triangle should use no more than 5 (8)g of either DK held single and fingering weight held
double. For border amounts, see ‘Borders’ section on page 9.

Make sure to weigh your base square after working it, it should be no more than 10 (16)g. If you are
using more yarn than this for each triangle or square, try going down a needle size or reduce your
stitch count using the ‘modify’ sections. If you can access one, I recommend using a small digital
scale that measures to the nearest 0.01g, these are quite affordable and available online and in
good cooking shops.
To calculate how much total yarn you will need, you will need to decide how big you’d like your
blanket to be and how many of each motif you will use. Multiply each amount by the number of
times you intend to use the motif.

Motif 1S 2S 1L 2L No. of motifs

MC total 100g 80g 160g 128g Lap Square 4

MC per triangle 5g 5g 8g 8g Lap Rectangle 6

CC total 60g 80g 96g 128g Throw Square 9

CC per triangle 5g 5g 8g 8g Throw Rectangle 12

No. of CC triangles 12 16* 12 16* *motif 2 has 16 individual CC triangles,

however the sample uses 8 different CC
colours, 10 (16)g of each

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 Sizes - not including a border
Each complete motif should measure approx 38 x 38 (53.5 X 53.5)cm / 15 x 15 (21 X 21)“. If you
would like to change the size of your motifs or are using a different yarn weight, use the modify
sections throughout the pattern. Use small motifs and Lap sizes for a baby blanket.

Lap Square
2 X 2 motifs
S - 76 X 76cm / 30 X 30”
L - 107 X 107cm / 42 X 42”

Lap Rectangle
2 X 3 motifs
S - 76 X 114cm / 30 X 45”
L - 107 X 160.5cm / 42 X 63”

Throw Square
3 X 3 motifs
S - 114 x 114cm / 45 X 45”
L - 160.5 X 160.5cm / 63 X 63”

Throw Rectangle
3 X 4 motifs
S - 152 X 114cm / 60 X 45”
L - 160.5 X 214cm / 63 X 84”

Blocking
It is not always necessary to block a blanket, however it will even out stitches, remove any dirt or
oil from your hands and will help your blanket grow a little if you’d like it a bit bigger. Be careful not
to stretch it however as it will loose its squish. If working the seamed method, block your individual
motifs before seaming, and again if you add a border. Steam blocking is also a great option.

Don’t worry, be happy

This project is an opportunity to really have fun with your knitting so don’t sweat the small stuff if it
goes a little bit wrong. If a point doesnt quite meet or your stitch count is off by 1, it will not matter
in the grand scheme of your blanket. If you’re worried your corner squares look bigger than the rest,
this is because they haven’t been joined yet!

av
Hungry for more? Dont forget the Expansion pattern (free if you own both Cushion and Blanket
Patterns) which includes 5 more motifs and how to design your own Stella Quilt Motif. Ravelry only.

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Instructions
Make sure you have read all the information before starting. Both construction methods start in the
same way, follow the motif appropriate for you. Use your base square as your swatch and check
your gauge/weight.

All methods and techniques are demonstrated in the accompanying tutorial video which can be
found HERE (https://youtu.be/Jf2Sa0-demc)

Base Square
This first square of each motif will be a corner square from which the motif will grow. You will work
this square only once per motif and it uses only your MC.
Using MC, CO 3 sts using the long tail method.

Increases
R1 (WS) - K to end
R2 (RS) - (K1FB) twice, SL1WYF 2 sts inc
R3 (WS) - K til 1 st rem, SL1WYF
R4 (RS) - K1FB, K til 2 sts rem, K1FB, SL1WYF 2 sts inc
Rep rows 3 and 4 until you have 31 (41) sts, ending on row 3.

Modify: increase to your desired size, make note of stitch count, this is your ‘width stitch count’.
Refer to this whenever increasing. Cont as described.

Decreases
R1, 2 & 3 - K til 1 st rem, SL1WYF
R4 (WS) - K1, K2tog, K til 3 sts rem, SSK, SL1WYF 2 sts dec
R5 (RS) - K til 1 st rem, Sl1WYF
Rep rows 4 & 5 until 5 sts rem.
R6 (WS) - K1, CDD, Sl1WYF 2 sts dec
R7 (RS) - CDD 2 sts dec
Break yarn, pull yarn through the last stitch. It is a good idea to weave in the ends after you com-
plete each square so you are not left with hours of weaving at the end of the project.

From this point on you will continue adding squares using the following 4 methods (A, B, C & D).
Using the schematics and/or tables on pages 7 and 8, add your squares in the order shown using
the method indicated. Make sure you are picking up along the correct edge, starting at the correct
point and using the correct colour. It can seem a little daunting at first but once you have worked a
few squares the construction will begin to make much more sense.

Short Rows
Short rows are used to attach your new squares to the previous ones. Don’t be intimidated if this is
your first time working short rows, it’s quite simple and is a great project to practise. This pattern
uses the German short row method, however you can swap this for any short row method you pre-
fer. Purl Soho or Very Pink Knits have great tutorials for German short rows on YouTube.

Picking up stitches
When picking up stitches to attach a new square you will always be picking up from the right
(forward facing) side of the work. To do so, insert your right needle into both legs of the slipped
edge stitch and pull yarn through.

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Method A
Starting at the point indicated, with the tail of your working yarn pick up and knit 16 (21) sts
along the edge indicated. This may take a few attempts to get the right tail length at first, you
may find it useful to measure your tail before you pick up sts to reference next time.
Slide sts back to the other end of the needle (or onto the left needle if using straights) so you are
ready to knit with the working yarn coming from the ball.

Modify: to work out how many sts to pick up, take your width stitch count, add 1 then divide by
2, eg: (41+1)/2=21. Use this calculation for methods A, B and D.

CO 1 sts using cable CO method. Continue working from the RS.

R1 (RS) - K3, turn
R2 (WS) - DS, K1, SL1WYF
R3 (RS) - K1FB, K to 1 st after DS, turn
R4 (WS) - DS, K til 1st rem, SL1WYF
Rep R3 & 4 til you have incorporated all the picked up sts. You should have 31 (41) sts.
Break yarn and change to the opposite colour (if appropriate) for decreases.

R1 (RS) - K to DS, SL both leg of the DS WYF (pull on the tail if your DS is loose)
R2 & 3 - K til 1 st rem, SL1WYF (resolve final DS at the beginning of R2)
R4 (WS) - K1, K2tog, K til 3 sts rem, SSK, SL1WYF
R5 (RS) - K til 1 st rem, Sl1WYF
Rep rows 4 & 5 until 5 sts rem.
R6 (WS) - K1, CDD, Sl1WYF
R7 (RS) - CDD
Break yarn, pull yarn through the last stitch.

Method B
Starting at point indicated, with working yarn pick up and knit 16 (21) sts along the edge
indicated.
Note: If you don’t intend to add a border, when working Method B for a square that will be on
the edge of the blanket pay attention to where you pick up your final stitch. Rather than picking
up from the point of the previous square, it may be neater to pick up from the slipped edge
stitch after the point.

Turn to work the WS. CO 1 st using the cable CO method.

R1 (WS) - K3, turn
R2 (RS) - DS, K1FB, SLWYF
R3 (WS) - K til 1 st after DS, turn
R4 (RS) - DS, K til 2 sts rem, K1FB, SL1WYF
Rep R3 & 4 til you have incorporated all the picked up sts, ending on a WS row (your final st will
be the final short row). You should have 31 (41) sts.
Break yarn and change to opposite colour for decreases.

R1-3 - K til 1 st rem, Sl1WYF

R4 (WS) - K1, K2tog, K til 3 sts rem, SSK, SL1WYF

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R5 (RS) - K til 1 st rem, Sl1WYF
Rep rows 4 & 5 until 5 sts rem.
R6 (WS) - K1, CDD, Sl1WYF
R7 (RS) - CDD
Break yarn, pull yarn through the last stitch.

Method C
For this square you will be picking up sts along the edges of 2 previously worked squares and using
short rows to form the first half. No increases are needed.
Starting at the point indicated, pick up and knit 15 (20) sts from the edge indicated. Now pick up
and knit 1 st from in-between the two edges you are picking up from. This should be the very top
of a previously worked square, then continue by picking up another 15 (20) sts along the edge slip
stitch of the left side triangle. You should have 31 (41) sts.

Modify: to work out how many stitches to pick up along each edge, take your width stitch count,
minus 1 then divide by 2, eg: (41-1)/2=20

Break yarn and slide stitches back to the other end of the needle if using a circular needle then slip
the first 15 (20) sts from left to right needle, rejoin yarn ready to start working at the central stitch
picked up in-between edges.
If using straight needles, slide 16 (21) sts from right to left needle and rejoin yarn ready to start
working at the central stitch picked up in-between edges.

R1 (RS) - K2, turn

R2 (WS) - DS, K2, turn
R3 & 4 - DS, K to 1 st past DS, turn
Repeat rows 3 & 4 until all picked up sts have been consumed and you have 31 (41) live sts.
Break yarn and change to the opposite colour for decreases.

R1 (RS) - K to DS, SL both legs of the DS WYF (pull on the tail if you DS is loose)
R2 & 3 - K til 1 st rem, SL1WYF (resolve final DS at the beginning of R2)
R4 (WS) - K1, K2tog, K til 3 sts rem, SSK, SL1WYF
R5 (RS) - K til 1 st rem, Sl1WYF
Rep rows 4 & 5 until 5 sts rem.
R6 (WS) - K1, CDD, Sl1WYF
R7 (RS) - CDD
Break yarn, pull yarn through the last stitch.

Method D
This is the only method where decreases are used to attach one edge of the new square to a previ-
ously worked square. The first half of the square is worked in the same way as method A.
Note: if you need to rip back whilst decreasing, do so very carefully as it can be very easy for the
stitches attaching the square to the one below to ladder down and become disconnected.

Starting at the point indicated, with the tail of your working yarn pick up and knit 16 (21) sts (or
modified aount) along the edge indicated.

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Slide sts back to the other end of the needle (or onto the left needle if using straights) so you are
ready to knit with the working yarn coming from the ball.

CO 1 st using cable CO method.

R1 (RS) - K3, turn
R2 (WS) - DS, K1, SL1WYF
R3 (RS) - K1FB, K to 1 st after DS, turn
R4 (WS) - DS, K til 1 st rem, SL1WYF
Rep R3 & 4 til you have incorporated all the picked up sts. You should have 31 (41) sts.
Break yarn and change to opposite colour for decreases.

R1 (RS) - K to DS, work DS.

With yarn forward and right needle, pick up st from the gap between edges inserting the needle from
back to front without knitting it, turn work.
R2 (WS) - K2tog, K til 1 st rem, SL1WYF
R3 (RS) - K til 1 st rem, SL1WYF.
With yarn forward and right needle, pick up both legs of the next slipped edge stitch inserting the
needle from back to front without knitting it. It will look like two sts on the needle however you
should treat it as one. Turn work.
R4 (WS) - K2tog twice, K til 3 sts rem, SSK, SL1WYF
Rep R3 & 4 until 5 sts rem, ending on R3.

R5 (WS) - K2tog, CDD, SL1WYF

R6 (RS) - K2, SL1WYF, pick up final edge slipped st
R7 (WS) - K2tog, SSK, pass first st over the second to bind off
Break yarn, pull yarn through the last stitch.

Modular Construction Joining

If you wish to add new motifs to previously worked
motifs to create a completely seamless blanket you
will need to substitute some of the joining methods
used. Using the schematic to the right, replace the
joining methods used for creating a single motif with
those shown. The schematic applies to both motifs.
The other joining methods remain the same.

The new joining method will depend on whether

you are adding your new motif to the left or the top
side of one previously worked motif, or to the left
and top side of two previously worked motifs. This is
referred to as a ‘corner join’.

Corner Top Left Previous

Join Join Join Motif

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Seaming
Seaming together your motifs is very easy and simple, you can use a crochet hook or a knitting
needle, the technique remains the same. It is recomended to use a hook or needle slightly bigger
than the needle size used for the blanket to ensure your seams are not too tight and making sure to
work with a neutral tension. You can best see this demonstrated in the tutoral video HERE (https://
youtu.be/Jf2Sa0-demc). The order in which you seam your motifs together is up to you as you may
wish to do it everytime you finish a motif, or once all motifs have been worked if you’re unsure of
your order.

Starting with the right sides of the motifs you are seaming facing each other, choose a corner in
which to start, you will be seaming from right to left. Before you start, make sure to line up your
slipped edge sts so that the points of the stars are together and make sure you are starting at the
same edge stitch on both motifs.

Insert your needle or hook under both legs of the very first slipped edge stitch of the motif closest
to you and then under both legs of the first slipped edge stitch of the motif furthest from you, pull
through a stitch. Now do the same on the next pair of edge stitches, then immediatly bind off this
stitch if using a needle, or pull this stitch through the previous stitch if using a hook. You should have
one stitch on the needle/hook. Continue joining each pair of stithes then immediatly binding off
the previous stitch all the way along the edge of the motifs, making sure your star points line up. If
you find you have one extra stitch on one motif than the other, don’t panic, either pull back to the
previous star point and try again making you haven’t missed a stitch, or skip over it. Regularly check
the right side of your work to make sure everything is lined up and neat.

Border
The border is optional, the slipped edge stitch leaves a lovely finish and it means you can extend
your blanket in the future. You can also add an applied icord edging, however it is recomended to
work an extra row of icord every 3-4 picked up sts to avoid the icord being too tight and distorting
your blanket. You may also wish to go up a needle size.

The border shown in the sample is worked as follows. First the top and bottom sections are added,
then the left and right sides are added in the same way you added your method C squares. You can
also work the left and right in the same way as the top and bottom, then seam the corners together.

To estimate how much yarn you will need, as this will differ for each knitter, work the top section
of your border and then divide the amount of yarn used by the number of motifs that make up the
width of your blanket. Now multiply this by the number of motif edges around the perimetre of your
blanket and add 10% contingency.

For example the 3x4 motif sample has a perimetre of 14 motif edges and used 83g for the top edge
border.
83g / 3 (width) = 28g. 28g X 14 (perimetre) = 392g. 392g / 10 = 39g (contingency) . 392g + 39g =
431g (total yarn estimate).

For an approximation of border yarn amounts for each size based on the sample amounts,
see page 11. Please note these amounts may vary bewteen knitters and depend upon matching
pattern gauge. It is recommended to use the equation above to work out your own amounts.

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Top/Bottom Edge
Starting at the top right corner of your blanket for the top edge and bottom left corner for the
bottom edge, with RS facing and working from right to left, pick up and knit 3 sts from the slipped
edge sts of the blanket. Now pick up an extra st from between the edge sts. This may take a little
trial and error and you may find it helpful to watch the tutorial video where this is shown in detail.
Continue picking up sts along the top/bottom edge of your blanket at a rate of 4 sts for every 3
slipped edge sts. The exact number of sts isn’t important, but try to match the amount on the top and
bottom as closely as you can.

R1 (WS) - K til 1 st rem, SL1WYF

R2 (RS) - K1FB, K til 2 sts rem, K1FB, SL1WYF
Work R1 & 2 until the border measures approx half the depth of one if the individual sqaures within a
motif, or desired depth. Sample border has 24 rows. Your next row is a WS row.

Bind off
The bind off is technically a 2 stitch icord, which gives clean and crisp edging without it looking like
an icord. If you could prefer a more rounded edge, work 3 sts instead of 2.

CO 2 sts using the cable CO method.

R1 - K1, SSK, SL 2 sts from right needle, back to left needle.
Work R1 until all sts have been bound off and 2 sts rem on the right needle, break yarn and place sts
on hold.

Left/Right Edge
The left and right sides of the border are worked in the same way Method C, using short rows.
Starting at the left tip of the top edge border for the left side edge, and the right tip of the bottom
edge border for the right side edge, pick up and knit a st for every slipped edge st of the previousy
worked border until you reach your blanket edge. Your st count shoud be half the number of rows
worked for the border, so in the sample 24 rows were worked, so 12 sts are picked up along the edge.
Now continue picking up sts along the blanket edge at a rate of 4 sts for every 3 slipped edge sts, as
you did before until you meet the next border edge. Pick up and knit a st for every border edge st,
making sure you have the same number of sts as the opposite end. You may want to place markers
seperating the border sts from the blanket sts. Break yarn and turn to work the wrong side.

Slip all the border edge sts from the left needle to the right needle and rejoin yarn ready to start work
the sts picked up from the blanet edge.

R1 (WS) - K to first border edge st, K1, turn

R2 (RS) - DS, K to first border edge st, K1, turn
R3 (WS) - K to 1 st past DS, turn
R4 (RS) - K to 1 st past DS, turn
Cont working R3 & 4 until all border edge sts have been worked. You should end in the top right
corner of your blanket for the right side, and the bottom left corner for left side.

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Bind off
Before turning to work the bind off on the wrong side, move yarn to the front of the work. turn the
work, then instead of casting on 2 new sts, transfer the two held sts from the top or bottom edge
borders onto your left needle and bind off your edge in the same way as the top and bottom. Your
final st will be a DS so make sure to work the two legs together as before. When you reach the end
either bind off the final sts traditionally then joining the very tip of the corner as you weave in your
end, or pick up 2 sts from the top/bottom border edge and graft the corners together.

Approx. border yarn amounts

Lap/Baby Lap/Baby Throw Throw

Size
Square Rectangle Square Rectangle

Small motifs 176g 220g 264g 308g

Large motifs 246g 308g 370g 431g

Abbreviations

CC contrast colour RS right side

DS double stitch rep repeat
cm centimetres rem remain(s)(ing)
CO cast on RS right side
g grams Sl1 slip 1 st purlwise
K knit st(s) stitch(es)
MC main colour WS wrong side
mm millimetres “ inches
R row WYF with yarn forward

Techniques

K2tog knit the first 2 stitches on the left needle together as if they were 1 stitch.
1 stitch decreased.
SSK slip one stitch knitwise, slip one stitch purlwise, place stitches back onto the left
needle, K together through the back loop. 1 stitch decreased
CDD Centre double decrease - slip 2 sts at the same time as if to knit,
K1, pass 2 slipped stitches over the stitch just knit. 2 stitches decreased.
K1FB Knit into the front loop of the stitch leaving it on the needle, then immediately knit
into the back of the loop of the stitch then drop off the needle. 1 stitch increased.
DS Slide the first stitch on the left needle to the right needle purlwise with yarn forward.
Now lift your working yarn up and over your needle to the back of the work, pulling
on the stitch. Continue working. When you reach the DS on the next row, work the
2 legs together as if they were one (just like a K2tog).

If you think you may have found an error, please contact me at laurapenroseknits@gmail.com.
This pattern including all words and images is intended for personal use only and must not be
redistributed or used for any commercial gains including the sale of a blanket made using this pattern.

#stellaquiltblanket @_laurapenrose_

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Motif 1
MC

CC

Pick up edge

Pick up start

Decrease
join edge
Direction
of work

Tip: reverse the MC and

CC in square 6, 7, 10 and
11 for an alternaitve motif.

Colour Pick up Pick up Colour Pick up Pick up

Square Method Square Method
order start edge order start edge

1 Base MC, MC - - 9 A MC, CC TR S5 T S5

2 A CC, MC TL S1 L S1 10 D MC, CC TL S9 L S9

3 B MC, CC TL S2 L S2 11 C CC, MC TL S10 L S10, T S7

4 A MC, MC TL S3 L S3 12 D CC, MC TL S11 L S11

5 B CC, MC TR S1 T S1 13 B MC, MC TR S9 T S9

6 C MC, CC TL S5 L S5, T S2 14 C CC, MC TL S13 L S13, T S10

7 D CC, MC TL S6 L S6 15 D MC, CC TL S14 L S14

8 C CC, MC TL S7 L S7, T S4 16 C MC, MC TL S15 L S15, T S12

L - left R - right T - top S - square TL/R - top left/right

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Motif 2
MC

CC

Pick up edge

Pick up start

Decrease
join edge
Direction
of work

Tip: choose high contrast

colours for this motif to
avoid loosing definition

Colour Pick up Pick up Colour Pick up Pick up

Square Method Square Method
order start edge order start edge

1 Base MC, MC - - 9 A MC, CC5 TR S5 T S5

2 A CC1, MC TL S1 L S1 10 C CC5, CC6 TL S9 L S9, T S6

3 B MC, CC2 TL S2 L S2 11 D CC7, CC8 TL S10 L S10

4 A MC, MC TL S3 L S3 12 D CC8, MC TL S11 L S11

5 B CC3, MC TR S1 T S1 13 B MC, MC TR S9 T S9

6 D CC3, CC1 TL S5 L S5 14 C CC6, MC TL S13 L S13, T S10

7 C CC2, CC4 TL S6 L S6, T S3 15 D MC, CC7 TL S14 L S14

8 C CC4, MC TL S7 L S7, T S4 16 C MC, MC TL S15 L S15, T S12

L - left R - right T - top S - square TL/R - top left/right

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 Use this sheet to plan your motifs
Why not try cutting them out and sticking them in your journal to plan the layout of your blanket?!

Motif 1

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 Use this sheet to plan your motifs
Why not try cutting them out and sticking them in your journal to plan the layout of your blanket?!

Motif 2

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