Arborg Te
By Sandra Buzza
This is a slightly loose tting summer tee that can be dressed up or paired with jeans. It can be
worn with anywhere from 1-6 inches of positive ease depending on the look you want and there
are detailed instructions for how to mix and match sleeve size and body size as this is a
common t problem for many women
The Arborg tee is truly seamless as the shoulders are joined with a three needle bind off and the
the modi ed drop sleeves are knitted from picked up stitches around the armholes. This
garment is knit from the bottom up in the round and then divided at the armholes. The front and
back are worked separately knitting back and forth and then the shoulders are shaped with
short rows. Stitches are then picked up around the scoop neck to nish it with a twisted rib
pattern.
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Size
1 (2, 3, 4) (5, 6, 7, 8) (9, 10, 11, 12) giving a nished bust measurement of 34 (36, 38, 40) (42,
44 46 48) (50, 52, 54, 56)” or 86.5 (91.5, 96.5, 101.5) (106.5, 112, 117, 122) (127, 132, 137,
142) cm
Length from underarm: The pattern is written for a slightly cropped tee that will hit at the high
hip. I have given a standard length of 13” or 33 cm for the rst 4 sizes, 14” or 35.5 cm for the
next 4 sizes and 15” or 38 cm for the last 4 sizes. This is easy to modify for all sizes by
changing the length of the stockinette stitch portion of the body, but keep in mind that this will
change the amount of yarn that is required.
Sleeve length: 6” or 15 cm for all sizes.
Upper Sleeve circumference: 10.5 (11, 11.5, 12) (12.75, 13.5, 14.25, 15) (15.75, 16.5, 17.25,
18)” or 27 (28, 29, 30.5) (32.5, 34, 36, 38) (40, 42, 44, 45.5) cm
The sleeve measurement will taper by 1” (2.5 cm) for all sizes.
Gauge 24 st and 36 rows = 4" or 10 cm in stockinette after blocking.
Tool
Size 3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle (I would suggest at least a 32” wire for working on the
round). You can knit the sleeves on DPNs, or use the longer wire for the magic loop method.
Size 3.25 mm (US 3) circular needle for ribbing.
Stitch holders for shoulders and stitch markers (both regular and removable).
Yar
The sample was knit with Harrisville Designes Shetland ngering weight. The pattern can be
knit with a variety of yarns or bres that will achieve gauge.
You will need approximately 860 (910, 960, 1000) (1100, 1160, 1220, 1280) (1430,
1500, 1570, 1650) m or 940 (1000, 1050, 1090) (1200, 1270, 1330, 1400) (1560, 1640,
1720, 1800) yards. Most of these sizes have not been test knitted so the yardage is
approximate.
Patter
Body
With smaller needle size cast on 204 (216, 228, 240) (252, 264, 276, 288) (300, 312, 324, 336)
sts place a BOR marker and join in the round being careful not to twist
Knit 5 rounds of twisted rib (k1tbl, p1) across round.
Next round: change to the larger size needle and work round 1 of chart 17 (18, 19, 20) (21, 22,
23, 24) (25, 26, 27, 28) times across all stitches
Continue working through rounds 2 to 48 of the chart
Continue with stockinette in the round till the body measures 12 (12, 12, 12) (13, 13, 13, 13) (14,
14, 14, 14)” or 30.5 (30.5, 30.5, 30.5) (33, 33, 33, 33) (35.5, 35.5, 35.5, 35.5) cm or desired
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length. Keep in mind that the sleeve increases
below will add 1” (2.5 cm) to the total body
length.
On the last round place a marker for the right
underarm at stitch 102 (108, 114, 120) (126,
132, 138, 144) (150, 156, 162, 168). This
marker will be used to make increases for the
sleeves.
Increase round: k1, m1r, knit to 1 st before next marker, m1l, k1, sm, k1, m1r, knit to 1 st before
next marker, m1l, k1. (4 sts increased)
Next round: kni
Repeat last 2 rounds 3 more times, then repeat the increase round 2 more times.
Total sts 228 (240, 252, 264) (276, 288, 300, 312) (324, 336, 348, 360)
Dividing for front and back
From this point on you will knit back and forth across half the stitches to form the front and back
separately. This is the point where you can adjust the pattern to get the best sleeve t for you.
Take your upper bicep measurement and decide how much positive ease you would like to add
to this measurement (my sleeve has about 1/2” of positive ease).This means that if you want to
have a 14” circumference on your sleeve, then you will need to have a sleeve opening that
matches this measurement. To achieve this, you will not start the shoulder shaping on the front
and back of the sweater till you have reached half of the required measurement. Further
instructions are given in the pattern.
Dividing row: knit across front body sts to m1, remove marker and put these front body stitches
on hold using some waste yarn or a separate needle. You will now knit back and forth across
the back body stitches in stockinette (remove the beginning of the round marker when you get
to it).
Back
Continue in stockinette till work measures 5.25 (5.5, 5.75, 6) (6.5, 6.75, 7, 7.5) (8, 8.25, 8.75, 9)”
or 13.5 (14, 14.5, 15) (16.5, 17, 18, 19) (20.5, 21, 22, 23) cm from the point of separation. This
is where you will adjust the measurement for your desired sleeve t by simply knitting to
the depth that is half the desired sleeve circumference
On the last row you will place markers to indicate the stitches that will be bound off for the back
neck: p 36 (38, 41, 43) (46, 49, 51, 54) (57, 59, 62, 65) sts, pm1, p 42 (44, 44, 46) 46, 46, 48,
48) (48, 50, 50, 50), pm2, p 36 (38, 41, 43) (46, 49, 51, 54) (57, 59, 62, 65) sts.
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Back shoulder shaping
The shoulder slope will be created using wrap and turn short rows and will be knitted in 4 steps.
The neck will be shaped in the last 3 sets of short rows. Slip all the neck markers as you come
to them in the rst set of short rows.
Short row set 1: knit to last 7 (8, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10, 11) (11, 12, 12, 13) sts, wrap and turn; purl to
last 7, (8, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10, 11) (11, 12, 12, 13) sts, wrap and turn
Left back neck and shoulder shaping
Short row set 2: knit to m1, remove m1, bind off all the stitches between m1 and m2, remove
m2, knit to 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 10, 10, 11) (11, 12, 12, 13) sts before last wrapped stitch, wrap and
turn; purl to neck edge
Short row set 3: k1, ssk, knit to 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10) (11, 11, 12, 13) sts before last wrapped
stitch, wrap and turn; purl to neck edg
Short row set 4: k1, ssk, knit to 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10) (11, 11, 12, 12) sts before last wrapped
stitch, wrap and turn, purl back to neck edge
Knit all stitches picking up the wraps as you come to them. Break yarn and put these stitches in
hold.
Right back neck and shoulder shaping
Rejoin the yarn at the neck edge on the wrong side for right shoulder
Short row set 2: purl to 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 10, 10, 11) (11, 12, 12, 13) sts before last wrapped stitch,
wrap and turn; knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Short row set 3: purl to 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10) (11, 11, 12, 13) sts before last wrapped stitch,
wrap and turn; knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Short row set 4: purl to 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10) (11, 11, 12, 12) sts before last wrapped stitch,
wrap and turn, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Purl all stitches picking up the wraps as you come to them. Break yarn and put these stitches on
hold.
Front
Rejoin your yarn to the right side of the front stitches and continue in stockinette till work
measures 2.25 (2.25, 2.5, 2.5) (2.75, 2.75, 3, 3) (3.5, 3.5, 4, 4)” or 5.5 (5.5, 6.5, 6.5) (7, 7, 7.5,
7.5) (9, 9, 10, 10) cm. If you would like a higher or lower front neckline, you can adjust the
measurement here.
On the last row you will place markers to indicate the stitches that will be bound off for the
centre front neck: p 44 (46, 49, 51) (54, 57, 59, 62) (65, 67, 70, 73) sts, pm1, p 26 (28, 28, 30)
30, 30, 32, 32) (32, 34, 34, 34), pm2, p 44 (46, 49, 51) (54, 57, 59, 62) (65, 67, 70, 73) sts.
Front neck shaping
knit to m1, remove m1, bind off all stitches between m1 and m2, remove m2, knit remaining
stitches. The two sides will now be shaped separately with the right side rst
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Right fron
Row 1: (WS) purl to last 3 sts, ssp, p
Row 2: (RS) k 1, ssk, knit to end of row
Repeat last 2 rows 2 more times
Row 7: (WS) pur
Row 8: (RS) k 1, ssk, knit to end of row
repeat last 2 rows 3 more times.
Continue in stockinette stitch till the length from the armhole divide measures the back length
before shoulder shaping ending with a wrong side row.
Shoulder shaping
Short row set 1: knit to last 7 (8, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10, 11) (11, 12, 12, 13) sts, wrap and turn; purl to
end
Short row set 2: knit to 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 10, 10, 11) (11, 12, 12, 13) sts before last wrapped stitch,
wrap and turn; purl to end
Short row set 3: knit to 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10) (11, 11, 12, 13) sts before last wrapped stitch,
wrap and turn; purl to en
Short row set 4: knit to 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10) (11, 11, 12, 12) sts before last wrapped stitch,
wrap and turn, purl to end
Next row: Knit all stitches picking up the wraps as you come to them. Do not break yarn
Join right shoulders
Join front and back right shoulders with a three needle bind-off. Return back right shoulder sts
to a needle if necessary. Hold the right front and back together so that the right sides are facing
each other; knit into rst stitch on front needle and rst stitch on back needle at the same time.
Repeat once more, then bind-off one stitch on right needle in the usual fashion. Repeat this till
all sts are bound off
Left fron
Join yarn to the left front stitches on the wrong sid
Row 1: (WS) p1, p2tog, purl to end
Row 2: (RS) knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Repeat last 2 rows 2 more times
Row 7: (WS) pur
Row 8: (RS) knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
repeat last 2 rows 3 more times.
Continue in stockinette stitch till the length from the armhole divide measures the back length
before shoulder shaping ending with a right side row.
Shoulder shaping
Short row set 1: purl to last 7 (8, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10, 11) (11, 12, 12, 13) sts, wrap and turn; knit to
end
Short row set 2: purl to 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 10, 10, 11) (11, 12, 12, 13) sts before last wrapped stitch,
wrap and turn; knit to end
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Short row set 3: purl to 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10) (11, 11, 12, 13) sts before last wrapped stitch,
wrap and turn; knit to en
Short row set 4: purl to 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10) (11, 11, 12, 12) sts before last wrapped stitch,
wrap and turn, knit to end
Next row: Purl all stitches picking up the wraps as you come to them. Do not break yarn. Join
the left front and backs with a three needle bind-off in the same manner as for the right side
Sleeves
The sleeves are the same length for all the sizes and will end just above the elbow. If you would
like to make short sleeves, then consider doing just the rst 18 rows of the chart to give a single
row of 3 lace motifs.
Beginning at the underarm with the right side facing, pick up and knit 31 (33, 34, 36) (39, 40, 42,
45) (48, 49, 52, 54) sts to the shoulder seam, pm, pickup a single stitch at the shoulder seam,
pm, pick up and knit 31 (33, 34, 36) (39, 40, 42, 45) (48, 49, 52, 54) sts on the other side of the
armhole. Join in the round and place a beginning of round marker.
Sleeves will have 63 (67, 69, 73) (79, 81, 85, 91) (97, 99, 105, 109) sts.
Before beginning the sleeve chart, place removable stitch markers to indicate where the chart
begins and ends. These can be replaced with regular stitch markers on the rst row. Count 18
st before the rst centre stitch marker and place m1. Count 18 sts after the second centre stitch
marker and place m2. The centre stitch markers indicate the 19th stitch on the chart and can be
removed once the lace is established
Rows 1-47: knit to m1, sm, work appropriate row of lace chart to m2, sm, knit the BOR while at
the same time work a decrease round on rows 22, 32, and 42 of the chart
Dec round: k1, k2tog, k to m1, sm, knit appropriate row of lace chart, sm2, knit to last 3 sts, ssk,
k1
Sleeves will now have 57 (61, 63, 67) (73, 75, 79, 85) (91, 93, 99, 103) sts.
Cuff: changing to the smaller size needle for twisted rib
Decrease round for sizes 3, 4, 6, 7, 9, 11, 12: k1tbl, p2tog, *k1tbl, p1; repeat from * to end of
round
Decrease round for sizes 1, 2, 5, 8, 10: *k1tbl, p1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2tog
Work 4 rows in k1tbl, p1 twisted rib and bind-off keeping in pattern
Repeat for second sleeve.
Neckband
With smaller rib needles and the right side of the work facing starting at the right shoulder, pick
up and knit 3 sts along right back neck slope, pick up and knit 1 st for every cast of back neck
stitch, pick up and knit 3 sts along left back neck slope, pick up and knit 2 out of every 3 sts
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along left front neck, pick up and knit 1 st for every 1 cast off front neck st, pick up and knit 2 out
of every 3 sts along right front neck. Place a BOR marker and join for knitting in the round
Note that stitches must be in a multiple of 2 for the ribbing.
Work 5 rows in k1tbl, p1 twisted rib and bind-off keeping in pattern.
Finishing
Weave in ends and block before wearing. I did a light wet blocking for my nished sweater.
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Body Chart
Sleeve Chart
Techniques and Glossary
Wrap and turn short rows:
There are many good tutorials online for how to make wrap and turn short rows, but here is a
basic description:
On a knit row, slip the next stitch to right hand needle, pass yarn from back to front around the
stitch. Pass the stitch back to the left hand needle returning the yarn to the back of the work.
Turn your work to the purl side and the yarn is in the correct position to purl the next stitch.
On a purl row, slip the next stitch to right hand needle passing the yarn from front to back
around the stitch. Slip the stitch back to left hand needle and return the yarn to the front. Turn
to work knit row and the yarn is in the correct position to knit the next stitch.
To work wrap with wrapped stitch:
For knit stitches: insert the right hand needle
into the wrap from underneath and then into the wrapped stitch and work them together. For
purl stitches: insert the right needle from behind, under the wrap, and then into the wrapped
stitch, then purl them together.
Glossary
BOR beginning of round
k knit
k2tog knit 2 together
K1tbl knit 1 through the back of the loop
m marker
m1l make one left leaning knit stitch (pick up the horizontal bar between the stitches from
front to back, knit through the back leg)
m1r make one right leaning knit stitch (pick up the horizontal bar between the stitches from
back to front, knit through the front leg)
p purl
s1 slip one as if to purl
ssp slip 1 as if to knit, slip 1 as if to knit, return the 2 sts to left needle and purl 2 together
through the back loops
ssk slip 1 as if to knit, slip 1 as if to knit, knit the 2 sts together through the back loops.
sts stitches
