Book club cardigan

Cable cardigan pattern by Sari Nordlund

#BookClubCardigan
The Book club cardigan has a relaxed fit with dropped shoulders. It is knitted seamlessly top
down with a diamond cable pattern that is a lot easier than it first appears and is suitable for
knitters who are just learning to knit cables.

The Book club cardigan is started at the back neck and then increased to the full width of the
back. After that stitches are picked up along the sloped shoulders for the fronts. The pieces are
joined at the underarm and the body is then knitted in one piece. The sleeve stitches are then
picked up from the body and worked in the round.

The length of the body and sleeves are easily modified to suit your own body measurements. I
recommend trying the cardigan on every now and then while working on it to make sure you get
the perfect length for your style.

2
Sizes Gauge
1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9) 18 sts and 26 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches of Moss stitch
Finished bust circumference: 95 (105, 115, 125, 135) on larger needles, after blocking.
(145, 155, 165, 175) cm / 37.5 (41.25, 45.25, 49.25, 53.25) 23 sts and 26 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches of Main chart
(57, 61, 65, 69) inches including the intended on larger needles, after blocking.
positive ease of 20 cm / 8 inches
Length from hem to underarm (adjustable): 30 (30, Notions
30, 30, 33) (33, 33, 35, 35) cm / 11.75 (11.75, 11.75, 11.75, 12 stitch markers
13) (13, 13, 13.75, 13.75) inches 4 locking markers
Sleeve length from cuff to underarm (adjustable): 45 4 buttons (diameter 2 cm / 0.75)
cm / 17.75 inches cable needle, if using
Upper arm circumference: 34 (36, 38, 40, 43) (46, 49, waste yarn
52, 55) cm / 13.5 (14.25, 15, 15.75, 17) (18, 19.25, 20.5, tapestry needle
21.75) inches blocking tools
Note: Please be aware that adjusting the lengths of the

Abbreviations
garment will also affect the amount of yarn needed to
finish the project.
BOR Beginning of the round
Yarn CO Cast on
Note: The pattern uses a strand of sport weight yarn held dec'd Decreased
together with lace weight silk mohair, but it can be inc’d Increased
substituted for a strand of worsted weight yarn. If you k Knit
wish to work a worsted version, work the cardigan using kfb Knit the next st first through its front, then
a single strand of yarn and follow the yarn requirements through its back loop
for the sport weight yarn only. k2tog Knit 2 sts together
m1L Make 1 knit stitch (left leaning)
880 (960, 1060, 1170, 1280) (1410, 1550, 1710, 1880) m / m1LP Make 1 purl stitch (left leaning)
960 (1050, 1160, 1280, 1400) (1540, 1700, 1870, 2060) m1R Make 1 knit stitch (right leaning)
yards of sport weight yarn and 880 (960, 1060, 1170, m1Rp Make 1 purl stitch (right leaning)
1280) (1410, 1550, 1710, 1880) m / 960 (1050, 1160, 1280, p Purl
1400) (1540, 1700, 1870, 2060) yards of lace weight yarn. p2tog Purl 2 sts together
pm Place marker
Sample: 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 5, 6) skeins of My Knitted Closet RS Right side
Organic Wool (100% wool; 350 meters / 380 yards per sl1 Slip 1 st
100 g) shown in the colorway Natural 03 and 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) sm Slip marker
(7, 8, 9, 9) skeins of My Knitted Closet The Silk Mohair ssk (Slip knitwise) x 2, knit the slipped stitches
(70% mohair, 30% silk; 225 m / 246 yards per 25 g), together through the back loop
shown in colorway Walnut. ssp (Slip knitwise) x 2, purl the slipped stitches
together through the back loop
Needles st(s) Stitch(es)
3 mm / US 2.5 DPNs or circular needles with a cable WS Wrong side
suitable for small circumference knitting for the wyif With yarn in front
cuffs
3 mm / US 2.5 circular needles with a cable of at 2/1 LCP 2 over 1 left cable purl: slip 2 sts to cable
least 80 cm / 32 inches for the hem and the needle at front, p1, then k2 from cable
buttonband needle.
2/1 RCP 2 over 1 right cable purl: slip 1 st to cable
4 mm / US 6 DPNs or circular needles with a cable needle at back, k2, then p1 from cable
suitable for small circumference knitting for the needle.
sleeves and the pockets
4 mm / US 6 circular needles with a cable of at least 2/2 LC 2 over 2 left cable: slip 2 sts to cable needle
80 cm / 32 inches for the body at front, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
2/2 RC 2 over 2 right cable: slip 2 sts to cable needle
at back, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
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 Stitch patterns
Note: The collar is worked in moss stitch (i.e. Moss stitch knitted flat:
alternating between k1 and p1, with always two knit On RS: If the next stitch on the left needle is a knit
stitches and two purl stitches stacked over one stitch, then knit it. If it’s a purl stitch, then purl it.
another), do not mistake it for seed stitch or double On WS: If the next stitch on the left needle is a knit
moss stitch. stitch, then purl it. If it’s a purl stitch, then knit it.

Here’s an example of moss stitch for you to visualize Moss stitch in the round over odd stitch count
it more easily: Round 1: *P1, k1; rep from * until 1 st rems, p1.
Round 2: As Round 1.
Round 3: *K1, p1; rep from * until 1 st rems, k1.
Round 4: As Round 3.

Moss stitch in the round over even stitch count

Round 1: *P1, k1; rep from * until end.
Round 2: As Round 1.
Round 3: *K1, p1; rep from * until end.
Round 4: As Round 3.

Decreasing in moss stitch pattern:

At the beginning of the moss stitch section: If you
would work the next stitch as k1, then p2tog. If you
would work it as p1, then k2tog.
At the end of the moss stitch section: If you would
work the next stitch as k1, then ssk. If you would
work it as p1, then ssp.

Instructions
BACK INCREASES
worked from the RS.
Note: If you are working with a combination of
yarns (ie. sport weight + mohair), hold both yarns Row 1 (RS): P1, sm, work Row 1 of the Left Shoulder
together through the whole project. Chart, pm, work in Moss stitch (see Moss Stitch
knitted flat over odd stitch count in Stitch patterns)
Cast on 11 (15, 17, 17, 19) (19, 21, 23, 25) sts for the until next m, sm, work Row 1 of the Right Shoulder
back neck on the larger needles. Do not join in the Chart, pm, p1. 2 sts inc’d.
round. Place locking markers into the cast on edge Row 2 (WS): K1, work Row 2 of the Right Shoulder
below the first and last stitch of the row. Chart, sm, work in Moss stitch until next m, sm,
work Row 2 of the Left Shoulder Chart, sm, k1. 2 sts
Set-Up Row (WS): K1, pm, *k1, p1; repeat from * until inc’d.
2 sts remain, k1, pm, k1.
Work the first and last stitch of the row always as p1
Note: When working the charts on the WS rows, on RS and k1 on WS, and the stitches in the middle
remember to read them from left to right and check in Moss stitch. Work as established until you reach
the changed abbreviations for the stitches when the end of the Left and Right Shoulder charts. 95
working on the WS. The first row of the chart is (99, 101, 101, 103) (103, 105, 107, 109) sts on needles.
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Row 1 (RS): P1, m1L, sm, work Row 18 of the Main Row 1 (RS): P1, (work in Moss stitch until next m, sm,
Chart, sm, work in Moss stitch until next m, sm, work next row of the Main Chart, sm) x 2, work in
work Row 18 of the Main Chart, sm, m1R, p1. 2 sts Moss stitch until 1 st remains, p1.
inc’d. Row 2 (WS): K1, (work in Moss stitch until next m,
Row 2 (WS): K1, m1Rp, k1, sm, work Row 19 of the sm, work next row of the Main Chart, sm) x 2, work
Main Chart, sm, work in Moss stitch until next m, in Moss stitch until 1 st remains, k1.
sm, work Row 19 of the Main Chart, sm, k1, m1Lp, k1.
2 sts inc’d. Work as established until the back measures 8 (8, 9,
9, 10) (10.5, 11.5, 12, 13) cm / 3.25 (3.25, 3.5, 3.5, 4)
From now on the increased stitches on each side (4.25, 4.5, 4.75, 5) inches from the locking marker at
will be knitted in Moss stitch. It doesn’t matter if the end of the increases, ending with a WS row.
you start the Moss stitch sections on the sides with a Make a note which row of the Main Chart you ended
k1 or a p1 as long as you incorporate the stitches with, as you will need this information for the front
increased on the following rows into the Moss stitch later on. Break yarn and put the sts on hold on a
pattern. piece of waste yarn.

Row 3 (RS): P1, m1L, (work in Moss stitch until next RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER
m, sm, work next row of the Main Chart, sm,) x 2,
work in Moss stitch until 1 st remains, m1R, p1. 2 sts With the RS facing you and starting at the locking
inc’d. marker at the end of increases on the right
Row 4 (WS): K1, m1Rp, (work in Moss stitch until shoulder, pick up and knit 49 (51, 55, 59, 63) (67, 71,
next m, sm, work next row of the Main Chart, sm) x 2, 74, 78) sts (= 1 st per each row) along the right
work in Moss stitch until 1 st remains, m1Lp, k1. 2 sts shoulder line until the locking marker at the right
inc’d. corner of the back neck cast on.

Work as established on Rows 3-4 another 0 (1, 3, 5, 7) For the next part, it doesn’t matter if you start the
(9, 11, 12, 14) times, then as established on Row 3 Moss stitch sections with a k1 or a p1.
another 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (1, 1, 0, 0) time. 105 (113, 123, 131,
141) (149, 159, 167, 177) sts on needles: 1 edge stitch Row 1 (WS): K1, pm, work Row 1 of the Main Chart
on each side, 5 (7, 11, 15, 19) (23, 27, 30, 34) sts in over the next 42 sts, pm, work in Moss stitch until 1
Moss stitch on each side, 42 sts on each charted st remains, k1.
pattern and 9 (13, 15, 15, 17) (17, 19, 21, 23) sts of Moss Row 2 (RS): P1, work in Moss stitch until next m, sm,
stitch in the middle. work Row 2 of the Main Chart, sm, p1.

Sizes 1-7 only: Work as established for another 19 (9, 7, 9, 9) (9, 7, 7,

Next Row (WS): K1, (work in Moss stitch until next 7) more rows. Then start shaping the front neck by
m, sm, work next row of the Main Chart, sm) x 2, increasing stitches between the edge stitch and the
work in Moss stitch until 1 st remains, k1. charted section:

BACK Increase Row (RS): P1, work in Moss stitch until next
m, sm, work next row of the Main Chart, sm, m1R, p1.
All sizes resume:
Place a locking marker at the first and last stitch of Repeat the Increase Row on every 22nd (12th, 10th,
the row. 12th, 10th) (12th, 10th, 10th, 10th) row another 2 (4,
5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 8, 9) times, and take the increased
From now on the first and last stitch of the row will stitches into the Moss stitch pattern. At the end of
always be a purl stitch on the RS and knit stitch on this section you should have 52 (56, 61, 65, 70) (74,
the WS. Work the rest of the stitches in cable pattern 79, 83, 88) sts on needles: 1 edge stitch on each side,
as follows: 5 (7, 11, 15, 19) (23, 27, 30, 34) sts in Moss stitch on
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the right side, 42 sts on the charted pattern and 3 (5, 5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 8, 9) times, and take the increased
6, 6, 7) (7, 8, 9, 10) sts of Moss stitch at the neck edge. stitches into the Moss stitch pattern. At the end of
Place a locking marker at the front edge to mark the this section you should have 52 (56, 61, 65, 70) (74,
last increase, you will need this to guide you for the 79, 83, 88) sts on needles: 1 edge stitch on each side,
button placements. 5 (7, 11, 15, 19) (23, 27, 30, 34) sts in Moss stitch on
the right side, 42 sts on the charted pattern and 3 (5,
Work as established until the right front measures 6, 6, 7) (7, 8, 9, 10) sts of Moss stitch at the neck edge.
26 (27.5, 29, 31, 33) (35.5, 37.5, 40, 42) cm / 10.25
(10.75, 11.5, 12.25, 13) (14, 14.75, 15.75, 16.5) inches Work as established until the right front measures
from the shoulder where you picked up the stitches. 26 (27.5, 29, 31, 33) (35.5, 37.5, 40, 42) cm / 10.25
Make sure you end with the same WS row of the (10.75, 11.5, 12.25, 13) (14, 14.75, 15.75, 16.5) inches
chart as you did for the back. Note: If you haven’t from the shoulder where you picked up the stitches.
finished all increases at the front neck at this point, Make sure you end with the same WS row of the
that’s ok. Make a note on how many increases you chart as you did for the back and the right front.
have left to do, and finish them after joining the Note: If you haven’t finished all increases at the
fronts and the back. front neck at this point, that’s ok. Make a note on
how many increases you have left to do, and finish
Break yarn and put the sts on hold on a piece of them after joining the fronts and the back.
waste yarn.
JOINING THE FRONTS AND THE BACK
LEFT FRONT SHOULDER
Next Row (RS): P1, work in Moss stitch until next m,
With the RS facing you and starting at the locking sm, work next row of the Main chart, sm, work in
marker at the left corner of the back neck cast on, Moss stitch until 1 st remains, pm, p1. Then CO 1 st
pick up and knit 49 (51, 55, 59, 63) (67, 71, 74, 78) sts using the Back Loop Cast or the Cable Cast On
(= 1 st per each row) along the left shoulder line method. Take the sts held for the back on your
until the locking marker at the end of increases on needles, and p1, pm. (Work in Moss stitch until next
the left shoulder. m, sm, work the same row of the Main chart as you
did for the left front, sm) x 2, work in Moss stitch
For the next part, it doesn’t matter if you start the until 1 st remains, pm, p1. Then CO 1 st using the
Moss stitch sections with a k1 or a p1. Back Loop Cast or the Cable Cast On method. Take
the sts held for the right front on your needles, and
Row 1 (WS): K1, work the next 5 (7, 11, 15, 19) (23, 27, p1, pm. Work in Moss stitch until next m, sm, work
30, 34) sts in Moss stitch, pm, work Row 1 of the the same row of the Main chart as you did for the
Main Chart until end, pm, k1. left front, sm, work in Moss stitch until 1 st remains,
Row 2 (RS): P1, sm, work Row 2 of the Main chart, p1. 211 (227, 247, 263, 283) (299, 319, 335, 355) sts on
sm, work in Moss stitch until 1 st remains, p1. needles.

Work as established for another 19 (9, 7, 9, 9) (9, 7, 7, Next Row (WS): K1, work in Moss stitch until next m,
7) more rows. Then start shaping the front neck by sm, work next row of Main Chart, sm, work in Moss
increasing stitches between the edge stitch and the stitch until next m, sm, k1, p1, k1, sm. (Work in Moss
charted section: stitch until next m, sm, work the same row of the
Main chart as you did for the right front, sm) x 2,
Increase Row (RS): P1, m1L, sm, work next row of the work in Moss stitch until next m, sm, k1, p1, k1, sm.
Main Chart, sm, work in Moss stitch until 1 st Work in Moss stitch until next m, sm, work the same
remains, p1. row of the Main chart as you did for the right front,
sm, work in Moss stitch until 1 st remains, k1.
Repeat the Increase Row on every 22nd (12th, 10th,
12th, 10th) (12th, 10th, 10th, 10th) row another 2 (4,
6
Next Row (RS): P1, work in Moss stitch until next m, sm*, sm, work in Moss stitch until next m, sm, k1, p1,
sm, work next row of Main Chart, sm, work in Moss k1, sm. (Work in Moss stitch until next m, sm, work
stitch until next m, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. (Work in Moss the same row of the Main chart as you did for the
stitch until next m, sm, work the same row of the right front, sm) x 2, work in Moss stitch until next m,
Main chart as you did for the left front, sm) x 2, work sm, k1, p1, k1, sm. Work in Moss stitch until next m,
in Moss stitch until next m, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. Work sm, then work the second pocket by repeating the
in Moss stitch until next m, sm, work the same row instructions marked *-* , sm, work in Moss stitch
of the Main chart as you did for the left front, sm, until 1 st remains, k1.
work in Moss stitch until 1 st remains, p1.
Pocket Row 3 (RS): P1, work in Moss stitch until next
Continue as established until the body measures m, sm, *work next 12 sts according to the next row of
12.5 cm / 5 inches from the underarm ending with a the Main Chart. Then (k1, p1) x 9, k1, then work the
WS row. next 12 sts according to the Main Chart, sm*. Work
in Moss stitch until next m, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. (Work
MARK THE POCKETS in Moss stitch until next m, sm, work the same row
of the Main chart as you did for the left front, sm) x
Pocket Row 1 (RS): P1, work in Moss stitch until next 2, work in Moss stitch until next m, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm.
m, sm, *work next 12 sts according to the next row of Work in Moss stitch until next m, sm, then work the
the Main Chart. Then take a piece of waste yarn and second pocket by repeating the instructions marked
knit the next 18 sts. Slip the 18 stitches back on the *-* , sm, work in Moss stitch until 1 st remains, p1.
left needle and work them again with the main yarn
as (k1, p1) x 8, kfb, k1, then work the next 12 sts Repeat Pocket Rows 2-3 two more times.
according to the Main Chart, sm*. Work in Moss
stitch until next m, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. (Work in Moss
Pocket Row 4 (WS): K1, work in Moss stitch until
stitch until next m, sm, work the same row of the next m, sm, *work next 12 sts according to the next
Main chart as you did for the left front, sm) x 2, work
row of the Main Chart. Then work the next 16 sts
in Moss stitch until next m, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. Work
(that were previously worked as ribbing) according
in Moss stitch until next m, sm, then work the to the Main chart, k2tog and p1, then work the next
second pocket by repeating the instructions marked 12 sts according to the Main Chart, sm*, sm, work in
*-* , sm, work in Moss stitch until 1 st remains, p1. 2
Moss stitch until next m, sm, k1, p1, k1, sm. (Work in
sts inc’d. Moss stitch until next m, sm, work the same row of
the Main chart as you did for the right front, sm) x 2,
Pocket Row 2 (WS): K1, work in Moss stitch until work in Moss stitch until next m, sm, k1, p1, k1, sm.
next m, sm, *work next 12 sts according to the next Work in Moss stitch until next m, sm, then work the
row of the Main Chart. Then (p1, k1) x 9, p1, then second pocket by repeating the instructions marked
work the next 12 sts according to the Main Chart, *-* , sm, work in Moss stitch until 1 st remains, k1. 2
sts dec’d.

7
Next Row (RS): P1, work in Moss stitch until next m, Round 2: K1, p1, work in Moss stitch until next m,
sm, work next row of Main Chart, sm, work in Moss sm, work Round 2 of the Main Chart, sm, work in
stitch until next m, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. (Work in Moss Moss stitch until 1 st remains, p1.
stitch until next m, sm, work the same row of the
Main chart as you did for the left front, sm) x 2, work Work 20 (15, 10, 8, 5) (3, 3, 2, 2) more rounds as
in Moss stitch until next m, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. Work established.
in Moss stitch until next m, sm, work the same row
of the Main chart as you did for the left front, sm, Decrease Round: K1, p2tog, work in Moss stitch until
work in Moss stitch until 1 st remains, p1. next m, sm, work next round of the Main Chart, sm,
work in Moss stitch until 2 st remains, ssp. 2 sts
Continue as established until the body measures dec’d.
26.5 (26.5, 26.5, 26.5, 29.5) (29.5, 29.5, 31.5, 31.5) cm /
10.25 (10.25, 10.25, 10.25, 11.5) (11.5, 11.5, 12.25, 12.25) Repeat the Decrease Round every 24th (18th, 15th,
inches from the underarm or 3.5 cm / 1.5 inches less 14th, 8th) (7th, 7th, 5th, 4th) round another 3 (4, 5, 6,
than the desired length for the body, ending with a 9) (11, 12, 15, 18) more times. 55 (55, 57, 59, 59) (59, 63,
WS row. 63, 63) sts remain on the sleeve.

HEM Work as established without any further decreases

until the sleeve measures 40 cm / 15.75 inches or 5
Change to smaller needles. On the next row, you can cm / 2 inches less than the desired length.
remove all markers.
CUFFS
Ribbing Row 1 (RS): P1, *k1, p1; repeat from * until
end. Change to smaller needles.
Ribbing Row 2 (WS): K1, *p1, k1; repeat from * until
end. Decrease Round: *K1, p1; repeat from * until 3 sts
remain, k1, ssp. 54 (54, 56, 58, 58) (58, 62, 62, 62) sts
Continue as established until the hem measures 3.5 on needles.
cm / 1.5 inches or the desired length.
Bind off all sts using the Sewn Tubular Bind Off, or Ribbing Round: *K1, p1; repeat from * until end.
other bind off method of your choice.
Continue in ribbing as established until the cuff
Good tutorials for the Sewn Tubular Bind Off: measures 5 cm / 2 inches or the desired length. Bind
https://shibuiknits.com/pages/tubular-bind-off off all sts using the Sewn Tubular Bind Off, or other
https://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-tubular-bind- bind off method of your choice.
off-in-the-round/
Work the left sleeve accordingly.
SLEEVES
POCKETS
Use the larger needles. Starting at the underarm
cast on stitch, pick up and knit 63 (65, 69, 73, 79) (83, Using the larger needles, pick up 18 sts along the top
89, 95, 101) sts along the sleeve opening. Pm for of the pocket (above the waste yarn) on one needle,
BOR. then another 18 sts along the bottom of the pocket
(below the waste yarn) on the second needle.
Round 1: K1, p1, work the next 9 (10, 12, 14, 17) (19, 22, Carefully undo the waste yarn from the pocket and
25, 28) sts in Moss stitch, pm, work Round 1 of the make sure at the same time that you have picked up
Main Chart, pm, work the next 9 (10, 12, 14, 17) (19, all the stitches from the sides of the pocket!
22, 25, 28) sts in Moss stitch, p1.
Attach the yarn at the right corner of the pocket.
8
Pick up and knit 1 stitch from the gap at the side of along the left front until you reach the bottom hem.
the pocket, then purl the next 18 sts (the stitches Break yarn.
above the ribbing). Pick up and knit 1 stitch from
the gap at the other side of the pocket, pm, then CO 16 sts on your larger needles and place them in
work the next 18 sts according to the next row of the front of the stitches on the right front.
Main chart (work only stitches 13-30), pm. Continue
working in the round. Row 1 (RS): Sl1 purlwise wyif, *knit 1, sl1 wyif; repeat
from * until 1 st remains of the 16 buttonband sts,
Pocket Round 1: K until next m, sm, work next round then ssk the stitch together with the first stitch
of the Main chart as established, sm. picked from the right front. Turn the work.

Work as established until the pocket measures 10 Row 2 (WS): *Sl1 wyif, k1; repeat from * until the end.
cm / 4 inches or the desired length. Bind off all sts Turn the work.
using the Three Needle Bind Off technique.
Repeat Rows 1-2 until you reach the first removable
Work the second pocket accordingly. marker to make the first buttonhole. Make sure the
next row is a RS row.
BUTTONBAND
Work the buttonhole as follows:
Mark placements for the buttons. With a removable Work the first 8 sts as before, turn and work over the
marker, mark the place for the first button about 5 8 stitches as before. Work 3 rows in total over the 8
cm / 2 inches from the bottom of the right front. The stitches (work last row from the RS). Cut the yarn.
topmost button will be just below the marker placed
at the last increase on the right front. Place the last Then reattach the yarn to the work and work 4 rows
two removable stitch markers between the bottom in total as before over the remaining 8 band stitches
button marker and the top button marker, so that (work first row from RS) and continue decreasing
they markers are evenly spaced = 4 removable st the last st on the RS rows together with the next
markers on the right front, marking 4 buttonholes. stitch along the front edge as before. On last row
from WS work as before over all of the 16
Using your smaller needles, begin picking up buttonband sts and continue as established for the
stitches at the bottom of the right front piece and whole buttonband on Rows 1-2. Work the other
pick up 1 st in every row along the right front piece. three buttonholes similarly, then work without any
Then pick up and knit 1 st from each casted on further buttonholes until you reach the end of the
stitch at the back neck and continue picking up sts. left front, ending with a RS row. Then bind off all sts
as if to purl.
9
FINISHING

Weave in all remaining yarn ends. Wet block to

measurements. Attach the buttons.

Main chart

10
 Right shoulder chart Left shoulder chart

11
 Thank you for knitting my patterns!
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