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Daisy Sweater

The Daisy Sweater is a top-down raglan design featuring a large floral pattern, worked in two colors with a third added using duplicate stitch. It is available in multiple sizes and requires specific yarn and needle recommendations, with a difficulty rating of five stars. The document includes detailed measurements, gauge information, and instructions for construction techniques such as short-row shaping and raglan increases.

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100% found this document useful (4 votes)
23K views14 pages

Daisy Sweater

The Daisy Sweater is a top-down raglan design featuring a large floral pattern, worked in two colors with a third added using duplicate stitch. It is available in multiple sizes and requires specific yarn and needle recommendations, with a difficulty rating of five stars. The document includes detailed measurements, gauge information, and instructions for construction techniques such as short-row shaping and raglan increases.

Uploaded by

alinethebes
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Daisy Sweater

The Daisy Sweater is a classic raglan sweater with a large floral pattern. The sweater is
worked using two colours, and the third colour is added at the end using duplicate stitch.
The sweater is worked top-down with a folded neckband, short-row shaping at the neck,
and increases along the sleeves and body.

Difficulty:
★★★★★

1
Sizes:
XXS (XS) S (M) L (XL) 2XL (3XL) 4XL (5XL)

Width:
74 (87) 99 (112) 124 (137) 149 (161) 174 (186) cm.
The sweater is designed with an ease of 10 to 20%. This means that you should choose a size
where the width is 10 to 20% larger than your widest upper body measurement.

Length:
48 (48) 54 (54) 54 (54) 60 (60) 60 (60) cm (excl. the folded neckband).

Suggested yarn:
Colour A: 150 (150) 200 (200) 200 (250) 250 (300) 300 (300) g Tvinni by Isager (255m/50g)
or 150 (150) 150 (200) 200 (250) 250 (250) 300 (300) g Saga by Filcolana (300m/50g).
Colour B: 100 (100) 100 (150) 150 (150) 150 (200) 200 (200) g Tvinni by Isager (255m/50g)
or 100 (100) 100 (100) 150 (150) 150 (150) 200 (200) g Saga by Filcolana (300m/50g).
Colour C: 50 g Tvinni by Isager (255m/50g) or 50 g Saga by Filcolana (300m/50g).

Gauge:
29 stitches x 29 rounds on 4 mm needles – or whichever needed to obtain gauge – in
stranded knitting = 10 x 10 cm after washing and blocking.
NB: as the sweater is worked in the round, it is very important that the gauge swatch is also
worked in the round.

Suggested needles:
4 mm circular needles (40 and 80 or 100 cm) and 3 mm circular needles (40 and 80 or 100
cm).

2
Measurements
A Width of body
B Length of body from
underarm
C Width of sleeve at
underarm
D Width of sleeve at
wrist
E Length of sleeve
from underarm
F Depth of yoke
G Width of neckband

XXS XS S M L
A 74 cm 87 cm 99 cm 112 cm 124 cm
B 29 cm 28 cm 31 cm 31 cm 28 cm
C 30 cm 33 cm 36 cm 40 cm 45 cm
D 25 cm 26 cm 29 cm 32 cm 36 cm
E 35 cm 34 cm 37 cm 37 cm 34 cm
F 19 cm 21 cm 23 cm 24 cm 27 cm
G 48 cm 48 cm 50 cm 51 cm 51 cm
XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 5XL
A 137 cm 149 cm 161 cm 174 cm 186 cm
B 28 cm 31 cm 29 cm 28 cm 26 cm
C 49 cm 53 cm 58 cm 62 cm 67 cm
D 39 cm 43 cm 47 cm 50 cm 54 cm
E 34 cm 37 cm 35 cm 34 cm 32 cm
F 27 cm 30 cm 32 cm 33 cm 35 cm
G 52 cm 54 cm 57 cm 58 cm 58 cm

3
M1R:
RS: With the left needle, pick up the bar between two stitches from back to front, then knit.
WS: With the left needle, pick up the bar between two stitches from back to front, then purl.
M1L:
RS: With the left needle, pick up the bar between two stitches from front to back, then knit
through the back loop.
WS: With the left needle, pick up the bar between two stitches from front to back, then purl
through the back loop.

ssk: Slip one stitch as if to knit two times, then knit the two stitches together through the
back loop.

sl wyif: Slip stitch purlwise with the yarn held in front.


sl wyib: Slip stitch purlwise with the yarn held in back.

Neckband:
Cast 140 (140) 144 (148) 148 (152) 156 (164) 168 (168) sts onto the 3 mm circular needles
(40 cm) in colour A. Join in the round, place a SM at the BOR, and work 3 cm in 2x2 ribbing
(k 2, p 2).

Work the next two rounds like so:


Round 1: *k 2, sl 2 wyif *, repeat from * to * to the end of round.
Round 2: *sl 2 wyib, p 2*, repeat from * to * to the end of round.

Work another 3 cm of 2x2 ribbing in the round.

On the next round, switch to the 4 mm circular needles (40 mm), and join the live sts with
the cast-on edge like so:
With the left needle, pick up the first st from the cast-on edge and work it together with the
first live st on the needle. Continue in this manner to the end of round, still in 2x2 ribbing.
Set up SMs for the raglan on this same round:

4
M1 (BOR), 2 raglan sts, SM2, 25 (21) 17 (15) 13 (15) 13 (13) 13 (13) sts (left sleeve), M3, 2
raglan sts, M4, 41 (45) 51 (55) 57 (57) 61 (65) 67 (67) sts (back), M5, 2 raglan sts, M6, 25 (21)
17 (15) 13 (15) 13 (13) 13 (13) sts (right sleeve), M7, 2 raglan sts, M8, 41 (45) 51 (55) 57 (57)
61 (65) 67 (67) sts (front).

Yoke:
The yoke starts off with Japanese short-rows and raglan increases. Additionally, the sleeves,
back, and front are from here-on out worked in stranded knitting following chart A on page
12.
The sleeves are worked from and including st 25 (27) 29 (30) 31 (30) 31 (31) 31 (31), not
counting the first increase.
The front and back are worked from and including st 35 (33) 30 (28) 27 (27) 25 (23) 22 (22),
not counting the first increase.

Tip: For sizes – (XS) – (M) – (XL) – (3XL) – (5XL) you may choose to shift the
start of the back 18 sts within the chart if you want the floral pattern to line
up in the round. Note that this will make the front and back patterns
asymmetrical.

The increases are worked in the colour that would be next in the pattern, and the bar that is
picked up should be in the colour of the st on the row below.
The raglan sts are always worked in colour A.
Note that you may need to add additional locks around the raglan sts. The floats on the WS
of the work should not exceed 5 sts, and the locks should not be placed on top of one
another.

Work Japanese short-rows and increases like so:

Size XXS (XS) S (M) L (XL) – (–) – (–):


Row 1 (RS): M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the left sleeve sts, M1R, k the raglan sts,
M1L, k the back sts, M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the right sleeve sts,
M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k 1, turn (= 8 increases).

5
Row 2 (WS): p to BOR, p 2, turn.
Row 3 (RS): k to BOR, M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the left sleeve sts, M1R, k the
raglan sts, M1L, k the back sts, M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the right
sleeve sts, M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k to and including 2 sts past the
last turn, turn (= 8 increases).
Row 4 (WS): p to and including 2 sts past the last turn, turn.

Work rows 3 and 4 an additional 6 (6) 7 (7) 7 (7) – (–) – (–) times (= 204 (204) 216 (220) 220
(224) – (–) – (–) sts).
The st distribution is as follows: 2 raglan sts, 41 (37) 35 (33) 31 (33) – (–) – (–) sts (left sleeve),
2 raglan sts, 57 (61) 69 (73) 75 (75) – (–) – (–) sts (back), 2 raglan sts, 41 (37) 35 (33) 31 (33)
– (–) – (–) sts (right sleeve), 2 raglan sts, 57 (61) 69 (73) 75 (75) – (–) – (–) sts (front).

Size (–) – (–) – (–) – (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL:


Row 1 (RS): M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the left sleeve sts, M1R, k the raglan sts,
M1L, k the back sts, M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the right sleeve sts,
M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k 1, turn (= 8 increases).
Row 2 (WS): p to M8, M1L, p the raglan sts, M1R, p the right sleeve sts, M1L, p the
raglan sts, M1R, p the back sts, M1L, p the raglan sts, M1R, p the left
sleeve sts, M1L, p the raglan sts, M1R p 2, turn (= 8 increases).
Row 3 (RS): k to and including 2 sts past the last turn, turn.
Row 4 (WS): p to M8, M1L, p the raglan sts, M1R, p the right sleeve sts, M1L, p the
raglan sts, M1R, k the back sts, M1L, p the raglan ts, M1R, p the left
sleeve sts, M1L, p the raglan sts, M1R, p to and including 2 sts past the
last turn, turn (= 8 increases).
Row 5 (RS): M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the left sleeve sts, M1R, k the raglan sts,
M1L, k the back sts, M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the left sleeve sts,
M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k to and inclusing 2 sts past the last turn,
turn (= 8 increases).
Row 6 (WS): p to and including 2 sts past the last turn, turn.
Row 7 (RS): Work as row 5.
Row 8 (WS): Work as row 4.

6
Row 9 (RS): p to and including 2 sts past the last turn, turn.

Work rows 4 through 9 an additional – (–) – (–) – (–) 2 (2) 2 (2) times + rows 4 through 6 an
additional – (–) – (–) – (–) 1 (1) 1 (1) time (= – (–) – (–) – (–) 284 (292) 296 (296) sts).
The st distribution is as follows: 2 raglan sts, – (–) – (–) – (–) 45 (45) 45 (45) sts (left sleeve),
2 raglan sts, – (–) – (–) – (–) 93 (97) 99 (99) sts (back), 2 raglan sts, – (–) – (–) – (–) 45 (45) 45
(45) sts (right sleeve), 2 raglan sts, – (–) – (–) – (–) 93 (97) 99 (99) sts (front).

All sizes:
Break the yarn and continue working in the round from the BOR. Switch to a longer pair of
circular needles when necessary.

Size XXS (XS) S (–) – (–) – (–) – (–):


Continue the increases like so:
Round 1: k the raglan sts, M1L, k the left sleeve sts, M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the
back sts, M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the right sleeve sts, M1R, k the raglan
sts, M1L, k the front sts, M1R (= 8 increases).
Round 2: k all sts.

Work these two rounds 20 (10) 7 (–) – (–) – (–) – (–) times total (= 364 (284) 272 (–) – (–) –
(–) – (–) sts).
The st distribution is as follows: 2 raglan sts, 81 (57) 49 (–) – (–) – (–) – (–) sts (left sleeve), 2
raglan sts, 97 (81) 83 (–) – (–) – (–) – (–) sts (back), 2 raglan sts, 81 (57) 49 (–) – (–) – (–) – (–)
sts (right sleeve), 2 raglan sts, 97 (81) 83 (–) – (–) – (–) – (–) sts (front).

Sizes – (XS) S (M) L (XL) 2XL (3XL) 4XL (5XL):


Continue working increases, now with a higher frequency:
Round 1: k the raglan sts, M1L, k the left sleeve sts, M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the
back sts, M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the right sleeve sts, M1R, k the raglan
sts, M1L, k the front sts, M1R (= 8 increases).
Round 2: Work as round 1.
Round 3: k all sts.

7
Work these three rounds – (8) 12 (14) 15 (5) 17 (17) 12 (8) times total (= – (412) 464 (444)
460 (304) 556 (564) 488 (424) sts).
The st distribution is as follows: 2 raglan sts, – (89) 97 (89) 91 (53) 113 (113) 93 (77) sts (left
sleeve), 2 raglan sts, – (113) 131 (129) 135 (95) 161 (165) 147 (131) sts (back), 2 raglan sts, –
(89) 97 (89) 91 (53) 113 (113) 93 (77) sts (right sleeve), 2 raglan sts, – (113) 131 (129) 135
(95) 161 (165) 147 (131) sts (front).

Size – (–) – (–) – (XL) 2XL (3XL) 4XL (5XL):


Continue working increases, now with a higher frequency on the body than on the sleeves:
Round 1: k the raglan sts, M1L, k the left sleeve sts, M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the
back sts, M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the right sleeve sts, M1R, k the raglan
sts, M1L, k the front sts, M1R (= 8 increases).
Round 2: Work as round 1.
Round 3: k the raglan sts, k the left sleeve sts, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the back sts, M1R,
k the raglan sts, k the right sleeve sts, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the front sts,
M1R (= 4 increases).

Work these three rows – (–) – (–) – (4) 4 (4) 6 (8) times total (= – (–) – (–) – (384) 636 (644)
608 (584) sts.)
The st distribution is as follows: 2 raglan sts, – (–) – (–) – (69) 129 (129) 117 (109) sts (left
sleeve), 2 raglan sts, – (–) – (–) – (119) 185 (189) 183 (179) sts (back), 2 raglan sts, – (–) – (–)
– (69) 129 (129) 117 (109) sts (right sleeve), 2 raglan sts, – (–) – (–) – (119) 185 (189) 183
(179) sts (front).

Size – (–) – (M) L (XL) 2XL (3XL) 4XL (5XL):


Continue working increases, now on every round:
k the raglan sts, M1L, k the left sleeve sts, M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the back sts, M1R, k
the raglan sts, M1L, k the right sleeve sts, M1R, k the raglan sts, M1L, k the front sts, M1R (=
8 increases).

8
Work this round – (–) – (10) 15 (32) 8 (14) 26 (37) times total (= – (–) – (524) 580 (640) 700
(756) 816 (880) sts).
The st distribution is as follows: 2 raglan sts, – (–) – (109) 121 (133) 145 (157) 169 (183) sts
(left sleeve), 2 raglan sts, – (–) – (149) 165 (183) 201 (217) 235 (253) sts (back), 2 raglan sts,
– (–) – (109) 121 (133) 145 (157) 169 (183) sts (right sleeve), 2 raglan sts, – (–) – (149) 165
(183) 201 (217) 235 (253) sts (front).

Body:
Divide the sleeves and body, and cast on sts for the armholes:
k the raglan sts, put 81 (89) 97 (109) 121 (133) 145 (157) 169 (183) sts on hold (left sleeve),
cast on 7 (9) 9 (9) 11 (11) 11 (13) 13 (13) new sts, k the raglan sts, k 97 (113) 131 (149) 165
(183) 201 (217) 235 (253) (back), k the raglan sts, put 81 (89) 97 (109) 121 (133) 145 (157)
169 (183) sts on hold (right sleeve), cast on 7 (9) 9 (9) 11 (11) 11 (13) 13 (13) new sts, k the
raglan sts, k 97 (113) 131 (149) 165 (183) 201 (217) 235 (253) (front) (= 216 (252) 288 (324)
360 (396) 432 (468) 504 (540) sts).

Sizes XXS (–) S (–) L (–) 2XL (–) 4XL (–):


From here-on out, all sts on the body are worked in stranded knitting.
k 5 (–) 6 (–) 7 (–) 7 (–) 8 (–), place a SM at the BOR, which is now under the left armhole, and
work in the established pattern following chart B on page 13 until the body measures 3.5 (–
) 4 (–) 4 (–) 4.5 (–) 4.5 (–) pattern repeats from the back of the neck – or your desired length.
The last round should be round 1 or round 19.
Pay close attention to the first and last sts on the round, as these sometimes differ from the
repeat to avoid a jog at the BOR.

Sizes – (XS) – (M) – (XL) – (3XL) – (5XL):


Place SMs to divide the work into front and back like so:
k – (5) – (5) – (6) – (7) – (7), place SM1 (BOR), k 3 in colour A, place SM2, k – (123) – (159) –
(195) – (231) – (267) in the established pattern (back), place SM3, k 3 in colour A, place SM4,
k – (123) – (159) – (195) – (231) – (267) in the established pattern (front).

9
Tip: If you adjusted the back to make the pattern line up in the round, skip the
step above. Follow the instructions for sizes XXS (–) S (–) L (–) 2XL (–) 4XL (–) but
place the BOR marker right before the first st number 1 or 19 in the pattern
repeat that does not contain a flower.

From here-on out, the front and back are worked in the established pattern following chart
A, and the 3 sts underneath each of the armholes are worked in colour A. Work in the round
until the body measures – (3.5) – (4) – (4) – (4.5) – (4.5) pattern repeats from the back of the
neck – or your desired length. The last round should be round 1 or round 19.
Pay close attention to the first and last sts on the round, as these sometimes differ from the
repeat to avoid a jog at the BOR.

Switch to the 3 mm circular needles (80 or 100 cm), and k 1 round in colour A.
Work 5 cm of 2x2 ribbing (k 2, p 2) in the round in colour A. Close all sts with a tubular bind-
off.

Sleeves:
Place the 81 (89) 97 (109) 121 (133) 145 (157) 169 (183) sts from the left sleeve on the 4 mm
circular needles (40 cm) and pick up 6 (8) 8 (8) 10 (10) 10 (12) 12 (12) sts in between the 7
(9) 9 (9) 11 (11) 11 (13) 13 (13) sts you cast on for the armhole (= 87 (97) 105 (117) 131 (143)
155 (169) 181 (195) sts).

Place a SM at the BOR, which is at the centre of the armhole. Work in the established pattern
following chart A on page 12 until the sleeve measures 4.5 (4.5) 5 (5) 5 (5) 5.5 (5.5) 5.5 (5.5)
pattern repeats from the neckband – or your desired length – whilst decreasing every 12 (9)
10 (8) 7 (7) 7 (6) 5 (5) rounds by working a ssk right after the BOR and a k2tog right before
the BOR 7 (10) 10 (12) 13 (15) 15 (16) 18 (19) times total (= 73 (77) 85 (93) 105 (113) 125
(137) 145 (157) sts). The last round should be round 1 or round 19.
Note that the first and last st on the round – and by extension, the decreases – are always
worked in colour A, and that these two sts are not included in the chart.

10
Switch to the 3 mm circular needles (40 cm), and k until 2 sts before the BOR in colour A,
then k2tog (= 72 (76) 84 (92) 104 (112) 124 (136) 144 (156) sts).
Work 5 cm of 2x2 ribbing (k 1, p 2, k 1) in colour A. Close all sts with a tubular bind-off.

Repeat the process for the right sleeve.

Finishing:
Add the centres of the flowers using duplicate stitch in colour C.

Tip: As the sweater is worn with positive ease, there’s little to no strain on the
duplicate stitches – feel free to secure them with a double knot with the ends
cut down to approx. 1 cm, instead of weaving in the ends.

Weave in all other loose ends.

11
Chart A

Colour A: Dominant colour.


Colour B: Background colour.
Colour C: Worked as colour A, and colour C
is added later using duplicate stitch.
Lock: Lock the non-working-yarn on the
WS to avoid long floats.

12
Chart B

13
This pattern is for private use only.
That means it must not be copied, resold, or shared with others.
Systematic sale of the design is not allowed.
Thank you for supporting Solvara Knitwear!
Please share your version of the Daisy Sweater with #daisysweater and #solvaraknitwear

14

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