TIED & TRUE TANK

The Tied & True Tank is a sweet and flirty top that accentuates your figure. It’s knitted top-down,
beginning with the upper back and then picking up each shoulder. The back and front are joined at
the underarms, and the rest of the top is knitted in one piece. It comes in 9 sizes with suggestions on
how you can customize the bust for a better fit. There are optional horizontal short-row bust darts and
shaping for the underbust. The top is held closed with three i-cords at the bust, underbust, and waist;
the underbust and waist ties allow you to cinch them for a closer fit. The body is finished with a ruffled
peplum hem and i-cord edging. It can be worn alone as a flirty cropped tank, or layered as a vest.

GAUGE: 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm) in stockinette with US 7 / 4.5 mm needle: 18 stitches, 26 rows

TOOLS & MATERIALS

- US 7 (4.5 mm) knitting needles or whatever size meets gauge, with a cable or length that is
longer than your full bust circumference; these will be used for knitting the body flat
- a spare knitting needle (can be US 7 / 4.5 mm or any size smaller), for folded hems
- 2 locking stitch markers
 YARN
Recommended yarn: Wool and the Gang, Shiny Happy Cotton (100% Cotton Aran/Worsted)
Alternate yarn suggestions: Cotton yarns make a great choice for a tank top, but wool and acrylic
yarns make a great vest for layering! Examples - Knit Picks Simply Cotton Organic Worsted,
Cascade Nifty Cotton, Knit Picks Dishie, We Are Knitters Pima Cotton, Lion Brand Cotton Ease,
DROPS Nepal, Berroco Comfort Solids

FIT
This top is meant to be worn with -1.5” to +1” of ease at the bust,
+1” to +3.5” of ease at the waist, and -1.5” of ease at the cross-back
point. The functional ties at the underbust and waist allow you to
cinch them to your comfort if you prefer a tighter fit at those points.
If you have a larger bust proportionally than in the size chart below, I
recommend choosing a size that best matches your cross-back width,
which is the measurement across your back where your underarms
split from your body, and then modifying the bust; if you size up to
accommodate a larger bust, the shoulders and underarms may be too
loose. The pattern offers recommendations on how to modify for a
larger bust, and how to modify for a larger or smaller waist-- look for
dashed boxes throughout the pattern. The length is customizable.

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
To fit bust: 28-30” 32-34” 36-38” 40-42” 44-46” 48-50” 52-54” 56-58” 60-62”
71 - 76 81 - 91.5 - 101.5 - 112 - 122 - 132 - 142 - 152.5 -
cm 86.5cm 96.5 cm 106.5 117 cm 127 cm 137 cm 147.5 157.5
cm cm cm

To fit cross-back: 13.25” 13.75” 14.25” 14.75” 15.25” 15.75” 16.25” 16.75” 17”
34 cm 35 cm 36 cm 37 cm 39 cm 40 cm 41 cm 43 cm 43 cm

Full Bust of 28.5” 33” 37” 40.75” 44.75” 49” 53” 56.75” 59”
garment (with 72 cm 83.5 cm 93.5 cm 103.5 cm 113.5 cm 124.5 cm 135 cm 144 cm 150 cm
intended ease)

Cross Back of 11.5” 12” 12.5” 13” 13.5” 14” 14.5” 15” 15.25”
garment (with 29 cm 30.5 cm 32 cm 33 cm 34.5 cm 35.5 cm 37 cm 38 cm 38.5 cm
intended ease)

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Waist of garment
(with intended 25” 29.25” 33.25” 37” 41” 45.5” 49.5” 53” 55.5”
ease) 63.5 cm 74.5 cm 84.5 cm 94 cm 104 cm 115.5 cm 125.5 cm 134.5 cm 141 cm

Armhole depth 7.75” 8” 8.25” 8.5” 9” 9.25” 9.5” 9.75” 10.25”

(also depth of 19.5 cm 20.5 cm 21 cm 21.5 cm 23 cm 23.5 cm 24 cm 25 cm 26 cm
v-neck)

Total length
(length is 17.25” 17.5” 17.75” 18” 18.5” 19” 19.5” 20” 20.5”
adjustable) 44 cm 44.5 cm 45 cm 45.5 cm 47 cm 48.5 cm 49.5 cm 51 cm 52 cm

Estimated yarn
amount
(increasing length 450 yds 520 yds 600 yds 660 yds 750 yds 840 yds 940 yds 1020 yds 1100 yds
will use more yarn) 410 m 480 m 550 m 610 m 680 m 770 m 860 m 940 m 1000 m

TECHNIQUES
- applied i-cord edge
- backwards loop cast-on
- German short rows, “turn work”: turn your work so the opposite side is facing you, and
move the yarn to front as if to purl. Slip the last stitch you made from the left needle to your
right needle purlwise, tug the working yarn tightly, and wrap it over the right needle
counter-clockwise so it is in back. If your next stitch is a purl, bring the yarn to the front
in-between the needles, so you don’t unravel the yarn-over. (When you knit these “double”
stitches in a future row, knit or purl both legs together like a k2tog or p2tog. See video tutorial for
example)
- i-cord
- i-cord bind-off
- k2tog: “knit 2 together”. Place the right needle knitwise through the front legs of 2 adjacent
stitches, then knit them together into 1 stitch (decreases by 1 right-leaning stitch)
- kfb: knit 1 stitch without slipping it off the left needle, then knit into the back loop of the
same stitch (increases by 1 stitch)
- long-tail cast on
- m1lk: “make one left-leaning knit stitch”. Place your left needle under the bar between two
stitches from the front, pick the bar up onto the left needle, and knit into this loop through its
back leg.

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 - m1lp: “make one left-leaning purl stitch”. Place your left needle under the bar between two
stitches from the front, pick the bar up onto the left needle, and purl into this loop through its
back leg.
- m1rk: “make one right-leaning knit stitch”. Place your left needle under the bar between two
stitches from the back side of the work, pick the bar up onto the left needle, and knit into this
loop through its front leg.
- m1rp: “make one right-leaning purl stitch”. Place your left needle under the bar between two
stitches from the back, pick the bar up onto the left needle, and purl into the loop through its
front leg.
- m2lk: “make 2 left-leaning knit stitches.” Do a m1lk, but don’t slip the new stitch off your left
needle yet. Knit another stitch into the front leg of the bar that you just knitted into, then slip
the two stitches to your right needle.
- m2lp: “make 2 left-leaning purl stitches.” Do a m1lp but don’t slip the new stitch off your left
needle yet. Purl another stitch into the front leg of the bar you just purled into, then slip the
two stitches to your right needle.
- m2rk: “make 2 right-leaning knit stitches.” Do a m1rk, but don’t slip the new stitch off your
left needle yet. Knit another stitch into the back leg of the bar that you just knitted into, then
slip the two stitches to your right needle.
- m2rp: “make 2 right-leaning purl stitches.” Do a m1rp but don’t slip the new stitch off your
left needle yet. Purl another stitch into the back leg of the bar that you just knitted into, then
slip the two stitches to your right needle.
- p2tog: “purl 2 stitches together.” Move the yarn to the front and place the right needle tip
through the front legs of the next two stitches purlwise, and purl together through the front
legs.
- picking up stitches
- ssk: “slip, slip, knit”. Slip 2 stitches knitwise, insert the left needle into the front of the two
stitches, and knit them together through the back loops (decreases by 1 left-leaning knit stitch)
- ssp: “slip, slip, purl”. Bring yarn forward, slip 2 stitches knitwise, slip back to left needle and
purl both together through the front loops (decreases by 1 left-leaning purl stitch)

ABBREVIATIONS
- BOR: “beginning of round”
- inc: increase(s)
- k: knit (ex, “k 2” = “knit 2 stitches”)
- p: purl (ex, “p to end” = “purl to the end of the row”)

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 - RS: “right side” of the work, with knitted V shapes visible
- st: stitch(es)
- WS: “wrong side” of the work, with purl bumps visible

UPPER BACK
Cast on (52; 54; 56) [59; 61; 63] (65; 67; 68) stitches to your US 7 / 4.5 mm needles with long-tail
cast on.

Now you’ll add some shoulder shaping with German Short Rows, beginning with 2 setup rows:
Setup Row 1 (RS): Knit (38; 40; 41) [43; 45; 46] (48; 50; 50) stitches, turn work (turn work so the
other side is facing you, slip the last stitch you made back onto the right needle, pull the working
yarn over the right needle counter-clockwise like a yarn-over so it is in back. Use this German Short
Row technique every time this pattern tells you “turn work”). Place a locking stitch marker into
the cast-on edge stitch at this location; this will help you see where the back of the neck of the
top is in later steps.
Setup Row 2 (WS): Purl (23; 25; 25) [26; 28; 28] (30; 32; 31) stitches, turn work. Place a locking
stitch marker into the cast-on edge stitch at this location.

Now you’ll do this 2-row repeat:

Row 1 (RS): Knit until you’ve knitted the last turned stitch, then knit an additional (4; 4; 4)
[5; 5; 5] (5; 5; 5) stitches. Turn work. (note: you can see the last place you turned by
looking for the double stitch created when you turn. When you reach that double stitch,
knit its two legs together like a k2tog - see German Short Row tutorial for example)
Row 2 (WS): Purl through the last place you turned, then purl (4; 4; 4) [5; 5; 5] (5; 5; 5)
additional stitches. Turn work. (note: when you pass a double stitch, purl both legs
together like a p2tog).
^ Follow this 2-row repeat for 6 total rows (3 repeats). You’ve now knitted 8 total short rows
including the two set-up rows, and you’ve created a trapezoid shape that is 8 rows deep when measured
at the center. The slanting edges are your shoulder edges, and the straight top at the cast-on edge is the
back of the neck. The two stitch markers you placed in the setup rows mark where the back of the neck
will be.

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After your final short row turn, knit back to the beginning of the row. Continue knitting flat in
stockinette for (46; 44; 44) (44; 44; 46) (48; 50; 52) rows, or (7"; 6.75"; 6.75") (6.75"; 6.75"; 7") (7.5";
7.75"; 8") / (18; 17; 17) (17; 17; 18) (19; 19.5; 20.5) cm measured along the side of the work, ending on
a WS. (Measure along the side of the work so you’re not including the short rows at the center of the
back.)

UNDERARM INCREASES
Now you’ll make one increase on each side of the work.
RS: k1, m1rk, k to 1 stitch before end, m1lk, k1 (2 increases made)
WS: p1, m1rp, p to 1 stitch before end, m1lp, p1 (2 increases made)
^ Work the back with the increases shown above for (4; 8; 10) [12; 14; 12] (8; 6; 6) rows. You’ve now
increased by (8; 16; 20) [24; 28; 24] (16; 12; 12) stitches.

SIZES 6, 7, 8, 9 ONLY:
You’ll now do some rows where you make two increases towards each armhole per row
RS: k1, m2rk, k to 1 stitch before end, m2lk, k1 (4 increases made)
WS: p1, m2rp, p to 1 before end, m2lp, p1 (4 increases made)
^ Follow the repeat above for (-; -; -) (-; -; 2) (6; 8; 8) total rows. You’ve increased by an additional ​(-; -;
-) (-; -; 8) (24; 32; 32) stitches.

You now have (60; 70; 76) (83; 89; 95) (105; 111; 112) stitches on your needles. Transfer these stitches
to waste yarn or a stitch holder, and cut the yarn leaving a tail to weave in later.

FRONT RIGHT SHOULDER

Now you’ll pick up stitches from the cast-on edge for the right shoulder of the top. With the RS of the
work facing you, pick up (14; 14; 15) [16; 16; 17] (17; 17; 18) stitches along the right shoulder (when
worn), starting at the outer right corner of the cast-on edge and working towards the stitch marker you
placed on your second short row turn. You should be picking up roughly 1 stitch per stitch. You can
remove the stitch marker from the cast-on edge when you’re done.

Purl 1 row.

CUSTOMIZING YOUR FIT: Adding extra width to the bust

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If your bust is larger than the bust measurement listed for your size, you can make additional increases
for the bust. Calculate how much extra width you need by subtracting the measurement of your full
bust from the one listed for your size in the size chart. Multiply the extra width by your stitch gauge
(4.5 stitches per inch or 1.8 stitches per cm) to find the total number of extra stitches you need. Divide
this amount by 2 to see how many increases you need to do per each front side of the top, rounding to
the closest whole number.

Here are some suggestions for where you can add these extra increases:
1. Add increases along the side seam below the armhole. You can add ~3” / 7.5 cm of width
there. The Joining Front & Back section describes these increases in more depth, since that’s where
they will be worked. Look for the dashed box similar to this one.
2. Increase more frequently along the neckline in the Shaping the V-Neck section below. You
can add extra increases in the non-increase rows knitted below, especially as you get closer to the
bottom of the v-neck.
3. Add extra increases along the armhole in the Armhole Increases section below. You can
begin adding armhole increases earlier while spacing them out with non-increase rows, and/or swap
some of the m1 increases with m2.

I recommend doing as many increases as you can along the side seam in option 1, then distributing the
remaining increases in the bottom of the v-neck and armhole shaping with options 2 & 3.

SHAPING THE V-NECK

You’ll begin gradually increasing at the neckline for the v-neck below, beginning with a RS row. You’ll
first increase at the neckline every 4th row as shown below:
Rows 1 - 3: knit in flat stockinette (k on RS, p on WS)
Row 4 (WS): p1, m1lp, p to end (1 stitch increased)
^ Work these increases for (32; 28; 24) (32; 16; 24) (8; 8; 12) total rows. You should end with (22; 21;
21) (24; 20; 23) (19; 19; 21) sts.

You’ll now increase more rapidly for the v-neck, every 3rd row.
Rows 1 - 2: knit in flat stockinette (k on RS, p on WS)
Row 3: if an odd, RS row: k to 1 before end of row, m1rk, k1 (1 stitch increased)
if an even, WS row: p1, m1lp, p to end (1 stitch increased)
^ Work these increases for (14; 16; 20) (12; 28; 22) (40; 42; 40) additional rows, or until you’ve knitted
(46; 44; 44) (44; 44; 46) (48; 50; 52) total rows of the shoulder so far. It’s fine if you end partway

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through the repeat on a non-increase row, as you’ll continue with this neckline shaping in the next step.
You now have (26; 26; 27) (28; 29; 30) (32; 33; 34) stitches.

ARMHOLE INCREASES
Now you’ll make one increase toward the armhole every row, while still increasing at the neckline
every 3rd row as above.
RS: k1, m1lk, k to end of row [do neckline inc if needed] (1 stitch increased at armhole)
WS: p1, [do neckline inc if needed], p to 1 before end of row, m1rp, p1 (1 stitch increased at
armhole)
^ Work these increases for (4; 8; 10) (12; 14; 12) (8; 6; 6) rows, ending at (50; 52; 54) (56; 58; 58) (56;
56; 58) total rows of shaping worked for the right shoulder so far. You now have (32; 37; 41) (44; 48;
46) (43; 41; 42) stitches.

SIZES 6, 7, 8, 9 ONLY:
You’ll now make two increases towards the armhole per row, while still increasing at the neckline
every 3rd row as above.
RS: k1, m2lk, k to end of row [do neckline inc if needed] (2 stitches increased at armhole)
WS: p1, [do neckline inc if needed], p to 1 before end of row, m2rp, p1 (2 stitches increased at
armhole)
^ Work these increases for (-; -; -) (-; -; 2) (6; 8; 8) rows, ending at (-; -; -) (-; -; 60) (62; 64; 66) total rows
of shaping worked for the entire right front shoulder so far.

ALL SIZES: You’ve increased by at least (14; 15; 16) (16; 18; 18) (20; 20; 21) total stitches at the bust
and (4; 8; 10) [12; 14; 16] (20; 22; 22) total stitches at the armpit, for a total of (32; 37; 41) (44; 48; 51)
(57; 59; 61) stitches on your needles.

Move these stitches to scrap yarn or a stitch holder and cut the yarn.

LEFT FRONT SHOULDER

Now you’ll pick up stitches for the left shoulder from the cast-on edge. With the RS of the work facing
you, pick up (14; 14; 15) [16; 16; 17] (17; 17; 18) stitches along the left shoulder (when worn), starting
at the inner stitch marker and working your way outwards to the outer left corner of the cast-on edge.

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You should be picking up roughly 1 stitch per stitch. You can remove the stitch marker when you’re
done.

Purl 1 row.

Note: If you customized the right shoulder to add bust increases, make the same customizations on this
side as well.

SHAPING THE V-NECK

You’ll begin gradually increasing for the v-neck below, beginning with a RS row. You’ll increase at the
neckline every 4th row as shown below:
Rows 1 - 3: knit in flat stockinette (k on RS, p on WS)
Row 4 (WS): p to 1 before end, m1rp, p1 (1 stitch increased)
^ Work these increases for (32; 28; 24) (32; 16; 24) (8; 8; 12) total rows. You should end with (22; 21;
21) (24; 20; 23) (19; 19; 21) sts.

You’ll now increase more rapidly for the v-neck, every 3rd row.
Rows 1 - 2: knit in flat stockinette (k on RS, p on WS)
Row 3: if an odd, RS row: k1, m1lk, k to end (1 stitch increased)
if an even, WS row: p to 1 before end, m1rp, p1 (1 stitch increased)
^ Work these increases for (14; 16; 20) (12; 28; 22) (40; 42; 40) additional rows, or until you’ve knitted
(46; 44; 44) (44; 44; 46) (48; 50; 52) total rows of the shoulder so far. It’s fine if you end partway
through the repeat on a non-increase row, as you’ll continue with this neckline shaping in the next step.
You now have (26; 26; 27) (28; 29; 30) (32; 33; 34) stitches.

ARMHOLE INCREASES
Now you’ll make one increase toward the armhole every row, while still increasing at the neckline
every 3rd row as above.
RS: k1, [do neckline inc if needed], k to 1 before end of row, m1rk, k1 (1 stitch increased at
armhole)
WS: p1, m1lp, p to end of row [do neckline inc if needed] (1 stitch increased at armhole)
^ Work these increases for (4; 8; 10) (12; 14; 12) (8; 6; 6) rows, ending at (50; 52; 54) (56; 58; 58) (56;
56; 58) total rows of shaping worked for the right shoulder so far. You now have (32; 37; 41) (44; 48;
46) (43; 41; 42) stitches.

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SIZES 6, 7, 8, 9 ONLY:
You’ll now make two increases towards the armhole per row, while still increasing at the neckline
every 3rd row as above.
RS: k to 1 before end of row, m2rk, k1 (2 stitches increased at armhole)
WS: p1, m2lp, p to end of row [do bust-side inc if needed](2 stitches increased at armhole)
^ Work these increases for (-; -; -) (-; -; 2) (6; 8; 8) rows, ending at (-; -; -) (-; -; 60) (62; 64; 66) total rows
of shaping worked for the entire right front shoulder so far.

ALL SIZES: You’ve increased by at least (14; 15; 16) (16; 18; 18) (20; 20; 21) total stitches at the bust
and (4; 8; 10) [12; 14; 16] (20; 22; 22) total stitches at the armpit, for a total of (32; 37; 41) (44; 48; 51)
(57; 59; 61) stitches on your needles.

JOINING FRONT & BACK

On the next RS row, you’ll join the front and back of the work. Use the backwards-loop cast on for
all stitches casted on below:

Knit across left front shoulder stitches, cast on (1; 1; 2) (3; 4; 6) (5; 7; 8) stitches, place an underarm
stitch marker, cast on (1; 1; 2) (3; 4; 6) (5; 6; 8) stitches, knit across back stitches, cast on (1; 1; 2) (3; 4;
6) (5; 6; 8) stitches, place a second underarm stitch marker, cast on (1; 1; 2) (3; 4; 6) (5; 7; 8) stitches,
knit across right shoulder stitches. (Size 8: note that there are an odd number of underarm stitches cast
on.)

You should now have (128; 148; 166) (183; 201; 221) (239; 255; 266) stitches on your needles.

Continue knitting (while making additional bust increases as described in the box below, if needed) for
1” / 2.5 cm, ending on a WS row. Try on your top at this point. If your top hasn’t yet reached the full
length and width of the fullest point of your bust, continue until the front reaches the fullest point of
your bust along the front. All busts are different, so this may be at different lengths for different people.

CUSTOMIZING: extra bust increase option

You’ve reached the last place you can add extra width to the bust if you need to. Follow these steps:
1. Try your top on to see how much extra length you need to knit before you reach your full bust.

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2. Find how many rows you have to work with by multiplying the length by 6.5 rows per inch or 2.6
rows per cm.
3. You can make 2 increases per increase row. Find how frequently to increase by dividing the number
of rows available by the number of stitches you still need to increase, and rounding down. I
recommend increasing at most every RS row (so every 2nd row).

How to increase:
k until 1 stitch before the left underarm marker, m1rk, k1, slip marker, k across back to right
underarm marker, slip marker, k1, m1lk, k to end of row (2 stitches increased)

BUST DARTS
[ Note: Sizes 1, 2 in the standard size chart can skip adding bust darts unless
you are customizing the fit for a larger bust size. Skip ahead to the
Underbust/Waist Shaping section below. ]

Why add short rows: Short-row bust darts ensure that the under-bust tie is
level across your body, despite the extra vertical space that your bust takes up;
if your knitting is all the same vertical length but the front has to travel much
farther around the curve of your bust, then the underbust tie will either be
too high up on your bust, or the back will be too long and may bag out with
excess fabric. Short rows allow you to add vertical distance (rows) to just one
part of your knitting, in this case the bust area.

All of the short row turns should happen in the space between your underarm and the apex of your
breast, on each side of the top. The illustration shows the trapezoid shape that the bust darts create,
adding the extra gray area into only the bust area. The black dots on each side represent each of the
short row turns.

Count (17; 19; 22) (24; 26; 29) (31; 33; 35) stitches in from the underarm marker on each side of the
front of the top, and place a stitch marker there. When you try your top on, these stitch markers
should be roughly 0.5” / 1.25cm outside the apex of your bust. You can adjust the placement or
customize the bust darts with the info in the box below. Otherwise, move on to the LEFT DART
section below the box.

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CUSTOMIZING: Adjusting the bust darts
1. Adjust the placement: Try the top on, and locate the “apex” or fullest point of each breast. This
may be where your nipple is, but all bodies are different. Place a stitch marker on the needle ~1/2” /
1.25cm outside of this point, moving it slightly closer to your armpit. Do the same on the other side,
and then count how far each one is from its adjacent underarm marker, adjusting them so they’re
spaced evenly.

2. Customizing the bust darts: If your bust dart placement is very different from the pattern’s, or if
you’ve customized the bust size significantly, follow this blog post to determine how many short rows
you need to add and how often you need to turn. Replace the turn amounts in the instructions below
with the numbers calculated here, and replace the total rows worked with the number of short rows
you need to add.
Note that your short row turns should always happen in the space between your underarm and the
bust marker, and never between the bust marker and the neckline. If you reach the bust marker and
still have more turns to do, you can skip them if there are just a few left, or you can start another dart
stacked below the first: on the next RS row, k to the underarm stitch marker (knitting together the legs
of any double stitches from past turns), and start again with Setup Row 1. Complete the remaining
rows in this new bust dart.

LEFT DART
Setup row 1: k to the left underarm marker, turn work using German short row technique
Setup row 2: p back to end of row

Now you’ll follow this 2-row repeat:

Row 1 (RS): k to (-; -; 7) (6; 5; 4) (5; 4; 4) stitches before the past turn, turn work
Row 2 (WS): p to end of row
^ Repeat until you have completed (-; -; 6) (8; 10; 12) (12; 14; 16) total rows, including the 2 setup
rows. This should space your turns out in the distance between the underarm marker and the bust
marker.

Try-on Checkpoint:
You’ve now added your short rows to the left front. Try your top on and look at the left side sideways
in the mirror: the front and back should be level with each other, like a horizontal line. The top doesn’t
need to reach your underbust yet, it just needs to be level across the front and back. If the front is still

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significantly shorter than the back, you may need more short rows. Try adding more short rows by
turning more frequently, or try adding another bust dart stacked below your first if you were already
turning every 1 stitch. If the front is significantly longer than the back, then you’ve added more short
rows than you need; try turning less frequently to add fewer short rows. Once you’re happy with the
short rows worked on the left front, be sure to write down what you did as you’ll need to repeat it
again for the Right Front below.

Next RS row: k across all stitches, knitting together the legs of any double stitches as you pass them
like a k2tog.

RIGHT DART
The right dart is worked similarly to the left; if you made any customizations to the left dart, do the
same for this one.
Setup row 1 (WS): p to the underarm marker, turn work
Setup row 2 (RS): k back to end of row

Row 1 (WS): p to (-; -; 7) (6; 5; 4) (5; 4; 4) stitches before the past turn, turn work
Row 2 (RS): k to end of row
^ Repeat until you have completed (-; -; 6) (8; 10; 12) (12; 14; 16) total rows, including the 2 setup
rows. This should space your turns out in the distance between the underarm marker and the bust
marker.

Next WS row: p across all stitches, purling together the legs of any double stitches as you pass them
like a p2tog. Remove the bust dart markers as you work.

UNDERBUST & WAIST

You’ll now do some decreases along the side of the top as you knit from the fullest point of the bust to
the underbust. The underbust and waist both have ties that let you cinch them in further if you’d like a
closer fit.

CUSTOMIZING THE UNDERBUST & WAIST

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Getting the right distance from full bust to underbust: The repeat below assumes there are ~3” /
7.5cm remaining until you reach the underbust. If you have less distance, you can do your decrease
rounds more frequently (at most every 2nd row). If you have more space, you can space them out
more.

If you need additional underbust decreases: If you added extra bust increases and now need more
underbust decreases, you can add additional decreases on non-decrease rows. The final measurement
should be your waist + 1” / 2.5 cm.

If your waist is larger than the size chart: You can skip some or all of the decreases, and simply use
the ties to cinch in at your underbust. If your waist is larger than your bust, you can swap decreases for
increases (swap ssk for m1rk, and k2tog for m1lk) in the repeat below, and follow that below or in the
space between your underbust and your waist.

UNDERBUST SHAPING
Decrease every 5th row to reach the underbust, starting with a RS row:
Rows 1 - 4: k on RS, p on WS
Row 5 (RS): k to 3 before underarm marker, ssk, k1, slip marker, k1, k2tog, k to 3 before next
marker, ssk, k1, slip marker, k1, k2tog, k to end (4 decreases)
Rows 6 - 9: k on RS, p on WS
Row 10 (WS): p to 3 before underarm marker, ssp, p1, slip marker, p1, p2tog, p to 3 before next
marker, ssp, p1, slip marker, p1, p2tog, p to end (4 decreases)
Rows 11 - 14: k on RS, p on WS
Row 15 (RS): same as Row 5 (4 decreases)
Rows 16 - 19: k on RS, p on WS
Row 20 (WS): p to 3 before underarm marker, ssp, p1, slip marker, p1, p2tog, p to 3 before next
marker, ssp, p1, slip marker, p1, p2tog, p to end (4 decreases)
^ You’ve now decreased by 16 stitches and have (112; 132; 150) (167; 185; 205) (223; 239; 250)
stitches on the needle.

Try-on Checkpoint:
Try on your top to double-check that it now reaches to just underneath your bust. If the top is too
short, continue knitting until you reach this distance. If it’s too long, rip back the extra length before
moving on to begin the underbust tie.

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BEGINNING THE UNDERBUST TIE
PLACING A “LIFELINE”: You’ll need to pick up stitches from the next RS row you knit in order
to create a channel through which the i-cord tie will pass. To help you identify this row and ensure you
don’t miss any stitches, place a “lifeline” of a thinner slippery yarn (or string, or a piece of floss)
through the stitches at this point. You can use a tapestry needle to pass the thinner yarn through the
stitches while keeping them on your knitting needle, or some knitting needles allow you to place a
lifeline as you knit.

Knit 1 row, and place a lifeline across it.

Knit in flat stockinette for 3 more rows beginning and ending with a WS row, then transfer your
stitches to scrap yarn or a spare needle and cut the yarn leaving a tail to weave in. Next, create your
i-cord tie.

CREATING THE I-CORD TIES

It’s a bit fussy to thread the ties into the underbust & waist channels after the fact, but if you knit the
tie first then you can simply close the channel around it. You can also substitute a ribbon instead of the
i-cord if you’d like. (If you choose to instead create the ties after you’ve already closed up the channels,
pin a safety pin to the end of the tie and use that to help you guide it through the channel, since it’s
easier to push along the stiff edge of the safety pin from the outside.)

CHOOSING A LENGTH: Your underbust and waist ties should be the circumferences of your
underbust or waist, plus extra length to tie a bow. My sample has ~9” / 23cm on each end to tie a short
bow - I’ll call this the “bow length” below. If you’d like to have a larger bow, add extra length to the
bow length.

CREATING THE TIES: Cast 3 stitches on to your US 7 / 4.5 mm needles, and use the i-cord
technique to create an i-cord as long as your underbust + (2 × 𝑏𝑜𝑤 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ). When you’ve finished
that length, cut the working yarn and pull the tail through all 3 stitches, then weave the tail in.

Repeat the same step for your waist, adding twice the bow length to your waist circumference.

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For the optional 3rd tie at the bust, knit two 3-stitch i-cords that are each equal to the “bow length”
described above.

FINISHING THE UNDERBUST TIE

CREATING THE I-CORD CHANNEL
Return to the row you placed a lifeline through and place those stitches back on your needle. Rejoin
the yarn on the right front of the top, and begin with a WS purl row. (This row will lie on top of the
previously knitted rows.)
Knit 2 more rows in flat stockinette (3 rows in total, ending with another WS row). At this point, you
should now have two 3-row flaps, with the current one lying on top of one you knitted before.

On the next row, you’ll close this channel by knitting together the stitches from the top layer and the
bottom layer that were set aside on waste yarn.

CLOSING THE CHANNEL

Place the stitches from the lower flap onto a spare needle (the size doesn’t matter, as long as it fits
through the stitches). Lay your i-cord or ribbon tie between the two flaps. Align the spare needle so it is
parallel to your left needle.

Insert your right needle into the front leg of the first stitch of the top flap, as well as the front leg of the
first stitch from the bottom flap. Knit those two stitches together through the front loop like a k2tog,
joining the two flaps of fabric at this stitch. Continue across the rest of the row. At the end of the row,
the channel should be completely joined.
Tip: if you need a visual, look at this tutorial for finishing a folded hem with the same technique.

TRY-ON CHECKPOINT
Try on your top to ensure the underbust tie is sitting just beneath your bust. When it is cinched
comfortably tightly, there shouldn’t be a large excess of fabric scrunching up along the tie. If there is,
you may want to go back and add more decreases between the full bust and the underbust. If there’s
not enough fabric to close the top in the front, you may want to go back and remove some decreases.

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WAIST TIE
Continue knitting for ~3” / 7.5cm, or the distance between your underbust and your waist. If your
underbust and waist are very close together, you can also choose to omit this section altogether and add
the ruffle directly underneath the underbust tie.

TRY-ON CHECKPOINT
Try on your top to ensure it’s at the right length before you add the waist tie. The top may have a slight
amount of positive ease at your waist, but there shouldn’t be a large amount of excess fabric. If there is,
you may need to add some decreases between the underbust tie and your waist; you can follow the
same pattern of decreasing along the side seams that you did between the full bust and the underbust.

To add the waist tie, follow the same instructions as you did for the UNDERBUST TIE section. After
finishing this tie, move on to the next section.

BOTTOM RUFFLE & HEM

After completing the waist tie, purl 1 row. On the next row, you’ll create a ruffle by increasing every
other stitch. Note - if you'd like a more subtle ruffle than on the sample, you can increase every 3rd stitch.
If you’d like even more volume in the ruffle, increase every stitch.

Ruffle increase: *k1, kfb* repeat until end of row (doesn’t matter if you end on a kfb or a k)
^ You’ve now increased by (56; 66; 75) (83; 92; 102) (111; 119; 125) stitches.

Knit in flat stockinette for at least 1.5” / 4cm, stopping whenever you’ve reached the length you’d like
the top to be, ending on a WS row.

Bind off all stitches with a 3-stitch i-cord bind-off.

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ADDING I-CORD EDGES
RECOMMENDED OPTION: I-CORD BIND-OFF
The cleanest way to finish the neckline is to pick up stitches around the neckline, and then do an i-cord
bind-off. If your cables are too short to fit enough stitches for this option, skip below to Option 2.

With the RS of the work facing you, begin at the lower right edge of the neckline and pick up 3 out of
every 4 rows or stitches along the neckline, across the back of the neck, and down to the bottom left
edge of the top. Note: when you reach the channels for the underbust and waist ties, pick up the stitches
from the channel that sits closest to your body. This allows the ties to sit on top of the edging.

Purl 1 row. On the next RS row, cast-on 3 stitches to complete an i-cord bind-off.

OPTION 2: APPLIED I-CORD EDGING

Add an applied i-cord edging with the WS of the work facing you, beginning at the bottom corner
edge of the left front of the top (when worn). Cast on 3 stitches to your needles, then either slide them
to the other end of your circular/DPN needles, or slip all stitches back to the left needle without
twisting them.

Repeat:
k 2 stitches, slip the 3rd stitch purlwise, pick up 1 stitch from the edge of the top with the WS
facing you (picking this first one up into the i-cord bind-off edge).
Move the picked up and the slipped stitch back to your left needle, and k2tbl.
You now have 3 stitches on your needles again. Slide them to the other end of your needle (or slip
them all back to the left needle without twisting), and continue the repeat again.

Continue up the rest of the neckline, picking up 3 stitches out of every 4 rows.
Note: when you reach the channels for the underbust and waist ties, add the applied i-cord to the layer of
the channel that sits closest to your body, aka the one that is facing you with the WS showing.

When you’ve reached the i-cord bind-off edge at the bottom right corner of the front of the top, use a
tapestry needle to pull the yarn through the 3 stitches on the needle, binding them off. Weave in the
ends.

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ARMHOLES
Use the same technique you used for adding the i-cord edge to the front of the top, beginning at the
center of each underarm.

FINISHING TOUCHES
SEWING ON THE 3RD BUST TIE: Measure the distance between your underbust and waist ties,
then pin the bust ties to the same length above the underbust. For instance if your underbust and waist
tie have 4” / 10 cm between them, pin the two new ties 4” / 10 cm above the underbust tie, one on
each side. Use a tapestry needle and yarn to seam each strap to the inside edge of the top, so the seams
are hidden behind the i-cord edge.

BLOCKING: Weave in all ends and block the top, pinning the i-cord edges flat as it dries.

OPTIONAL HOOK & EYE CLOSURES: If you’d like the top to stay more securely closed,
especially if you’re using a slippery material for the ties like ribbons, you can use a needle and thread to
add hook and eye closures along the front edges of the top. If you sew them to WS of the i-cord
channels, the bows will hide them while worn. You can also choose to add them along the rest of the
center, if you prefer not to have a gap in the center front while wearing the top.

congrats!!
Congratulations on finishing your top!! If you share it on social media, tag #TiedAndTrueTank and
tag me (@starcrossed.knits) so I can see and share your beautiful work! Thank you so much for
choosing to knit one of my patterns.
🖤tamara / starcrossed knits

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