393171

Version 1

Hällevik
CROSSOVER SKIRT
393171

YARN Cecilia (53% cotton, 33% viscose, 14% linen, between 2 sts from front to back and knit into back
120 yd/110 m / 50 g) loop = left-leaning increase.
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS
Soft Lama (100% baby llama, 109 yd/100 m / 50 g) NOTE When the instructions say to work in
Ulrika (100% superwash wool, 109 yd/100 m / 50 g) established texture pattern (following the chart), it
GAUGE Approx. 20 sts x 40 rows in texture pattern on means that you should examine your work to see how
gauge-size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm.
the pattern looks and the make sure that the stitch
Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if
sequence follows that shown on the chart.
necessary.
SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)
GARMENT EASE Approx. -¾ in / -2 cm at waist and ¾ SKIRT
in / 2 cm at hips
GARMENT WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE Approx. 24¾ With color 2 and gauge-size circular, CO 170 (190,
(27½, 30¾, 32¾, 34¾, 38½, 42½, 46½) in / 63 (70, 214, 230, 244, 274, 304, 334) sts.
78, 83, 88, 98, 108, 118) cm
GARMENT HIP CIRCUMFERENCE Approx. 34¾ (37¾, Set-up Row 1 (WS): Color 2: K1, *k1, sl 1 wyf*; rep *-*
41, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60) in / 88 (96, 104, 112, 122, 132,
until you’ve worked a total of 51 (58, 66, 74, 76, 86,
142, 152) cm
96, 106) sts, pm, p2, pm, *k1, sl 1 wyf*; rep *-* until
GARMENT LENGTH Approx. 13 (13½, 13¾, 14¼, 15,
15¾, 16½, 17¼) in / 33 (34, 35, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44) cm you’ve worked a total of 64 (70, 78, 84, 88, 98, 108,
YARN AMOUNTS AND COLORS 118) sts from last-placed marker, pm, p2, pm, *k1, sl 1
Color 1: Approx. 150 (160, 170, 180, 190, 200, 220, wyf*; rep *-* until 1 st rem, k1.
240) g (color 285039, Brick Red, Cecilia) Set-up Row 2 (RS): Color 2, Knit around.
Color 2: Approx. 140 (150, 160, 170, 180, 190, 210,
230) g (color 285005, Natural White, Cecilia) Row 1 (WS): Color 1: K1, *sl 1 wyf, k1*; rep *-* to next
NEEDLES U. S. size 4 / 3.5 mm: 24-40 in / 60-100 cm
marker, slm, p2, slm, *sl 1 wyf, k1*; rep *-* to next
circular
NOTIONS A few stitch markers marker, slm, p2, slm, *sl 1 wyf, k1*; rep *-* until 1 st
DESIGNER Elin Berlin / Wool &Beyond rem, k1.
Row 2 (RS): Color 1: Knit to next marker, M1R, slm,
Here’s a crossover skirt with a simple but effective k2, M1L, knit to next marker, M1R, slm, k2, slm, M1L,
texture pattern made with knit, purl, and slipped knit to end of row.
stitches. The “multicolor effect is created by working Row 3 (WS): Color 2: K1, work as est in texture
stripes. The skirt is worked back and forth, from the pattern (see chart) to next marker, slm, p2, slm, work
top down with increases along the sides and finished in est pattern to next marker, slm, p2, slm, work in est
with I-cord edging along the front and ties and I-cord pattern until 1 st rem, k1.
at the waist. The left cord runs through a little hole Row 4 (RS): Color 2: Knit across row.
on the right side seam and then around the waist Row 5 (WS): Color 1: K1, work as est in texture
before being tied with the right tie band pattern (see chart) to next marker, slm, p2, slm, work
in est pattern to next marker, slm, p2, slm, work in est
pattern until 1 st rem, k1.
STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES
Row 6 (RS): Color 1: Knit to next marker, M1R, slm,
M1R = make 1 right: With left needle, lift strand k2, M1L, knit to next marker, M1R, slm, k2, slm, M1L,
between 2 sts from back to front and knit into front knit to end of row.
loop = right-leaning increase.
M1L = make 1 left: With left needle, lift strand Repeat Rows 3-6 (so you will be increasing on every
4th row) until you’ve worked a total of 10 (11, 11, 12,

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Version 1

15, 15, 15, 15) increase rows = 210 (234, 258, 278, Rep Row 1 until band is approx. 11¾ in /30 cm long
304, 334, 364, 394) sts. or desired length.

Continue repeating Rows 3-6, but, increase on every Next Row: Sl 1 wyf, p1, sl 1 wyf, k1.
8th row (so, do not increase on every other Row 6) a
total of 2 times = 218 (242, 266, 286, 312, 342, 372, On the next row, begin joining tie to top edge with RS
402) sts. facing: Place the 4 tie sts onto needle with the sts you
picked up along top edge, k3, k2tog tbl, **slip the 4
Now work the skirt straight down in the same texture sts on right needle to left needle, k3, k2tog tbl*; rep *-
pattern as est without further increases. Always knit 1 * until you’ve bound of all the sts picked up along top
at each side and work 2 stockinette sts down each edge. When you come to the double yarnover, work
side seam. Continue as est until skirt is approx. 13¾ - each yarnover as a regular knit st, to make a hole for
15¾ in / 35-40 cm long or to desired length. End with the tie band to thread through. When you’ve bound
1 row on WS in the color you want to finish with. BO off all the sts along the top edge, continue, making a
knitwise on RS. tie band along the left front as you did for the right
tie: Sl 1 wyf, k1, sl 1 wyf, k1. Because the left tie will
I-CORD ALONG FRONT EDGES thread through the hole at the side seam and around
the back, the other side needs to be the same length
Use color 1 or whichever one you want for the cord. as the back is wide + approx. 11¾ in / 30 cm. For
example, if the back is 14½ in / 37 cm wide, the left
First, make the I-cord edge along the vertical edges of tie should be 14½ in / 37 cm = 11¾ in / 30 cm = 26¼
the skirt front. Begin by picking up and knitting sts in / 67 cm total length.
along RS. On right front, begin picking up sts from the
lower edge and work up. I recommend picking up 1 st Once the left tie is as long as desired, cut yarn and
in every other st/row ( or, 1 st per stripe). Cut yarn and draw end through rem sts.
work I-cord on RS over the sts you just picked up as
follows: CO 3 sts on right needle, move sts to left
FINISHING
needle, k2, k2tog tbl, *slip the 3 sts on right needle to
left needle, k2, k2tog tbl*; rep *-* to end of row. Cut Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Dampen skirt,
yarn and draw end though rem sts. preferably from a spray bottle. Gently press out
excess water by rolling skirt in a towel. On a dry
Make an I-cord along left front the same way, but towel, lay skirt flat to dry, patting it out to finished
make sure that you pick up and knit sts on RS from measurements.
the top to the bottom.

TIE BAND AND I-CORD ALONG TOP EDGE

Now make an I-cord edging along the top edge of the

skirt which will extend out to a tie band at each side.
Use color 1 or whichever one you want for the cord.

Begin by picking up and knitting sts along top edge

on RS, as follows: Pick up 1 st in every st to right side
seam, make a double yarnover and skip 2 sts on top
edge of skirt. Continue with picking up and knitting
1st in each st. Cut yarn once you’ve picked up sts all
along the top edge.

Now make the tie band to be attached to the right

front as follows:

CO 4 sts.
Row 1: Sl 1 wyf, k1, sl 1 wyf, k1.

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Chart
Knit on RS / Purl on WS Knit on RS / Purl on WS

Purl on RS / Knit on WS Purl on RS / Knit on WS

Sl 1 wyb on RS / Sl 1 wyf Sl 1 wyb on RS / Sl 1 wyf

on WS on WS
Version 1

Tips & shortcuts Abbreviations

TO AVOID QUESTIONS KNITTING

Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern. alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg =
begin, bl = back loop, BO = bind off, BOR = beginning
STITCH COUNT of row/round, cc = contrasting color, cn = cable
needle, CO = cast on, col = color, cont = continue, dec
Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as = decrease, dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, EOR =
recommended in the pattern. If your stitch count end of row/round, fl = front loop, g st = garter stitch,
doesn’t match the gauge given in the pattern, try inc = increase, k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of
again with larger or smaller needles or hook. If your same stitch, k = knit (stitch), k2tog = knit two stitches
gauge doesn’t match that in the pattern, your item together (right-slanting decrease), kw = knitwise, LH =
will not be the correct size or shape. left hand needle, m = marker, mm = millimeters, mc =
main color, p = purl (stitch), patt = pattern, pm = place
HIGHLIGHT marker, pw = purlwise, rep = repeat, rnd(s) =
round/rounds, RH = right hand needle, RM = remove
Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the
marker, RS = right side, sl = slip, sl m = slip marker,
pattern to make it easier to follow the instructions.
ssk = slip, slip, knit, st(s) = stitches, St st =
stockinette/stocking stitch, tog = together, WS =
CHARTS wrong side, wyib = with yarn in back, wyif = with yarn
in front, yo = yarn over
It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row
with a ruler and magnetic board or sticky note.
CROCHETING

EASE approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop,

ch = chain stitch, col = color, cont = continue, dc =
The amount of ease included in our garments varies
double crochet, dec = decrease, dtr = double treble
depending on the type and shape of the garment. To
crochet, fl = front loop, hdc = half double crochet, htr
determine the right size, we recommend that you first
= half treble crochet, inc = increase, m = marker, mc =
measure your body. Then you can calculate the
main color, rep = repeat, rnd/rnds = round/rounds, RS
garment size depending on how much ease you want
= right side, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, sts =
the garment to have. The schematics for each piece
stitches, tog = together, tr = treble crochet, tr tr =
show all the garment measurements.
triple treble crochet, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over

TWO-COLOR STRANDED KNITTING

When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same

color, twist the color strands around each other on
the wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the
back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several
rows/rounds, make sure you do not stack the twists in
the same place to prevent the yarns from showing
through on the right side.

TIPS FÖR HAND DYED YARN

Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project.

The colors may vary from time to time. To get a smooth
color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two
rows from one and two rows from another skein.

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