Sol top

About Sol top: Finished garment measurements:

The Sol Top was knit in 100% linen, giving it A: length:
more body, with a boxy shape and a loose, but
not oversized, fit. (38) 40 (42) 44 (48) cm/ (15) 15.75 (16.5) 17.25 (19)"
It's worked top down, so you can easily choose
the length you like. B: armhole depth:
The finishing techniques as well as the slipped
stitch border around the neckline and the (20,5) 21 (21,7) 22 (22,5) cm (8) 8.2 (8.5) 8,6 (8,8)"
armhole trim were chosen with the yarn in
mind. C: 1/2 bust circumference:

(88) 92 (96) 102 (108) cm/ (34.75) 36.2 (37.75) 40-(42.5)"

Sizes:
(XS) S (M) L (XL)

Bust measurements, to fit sizes:

(82) 86 (90) 96 (102) cm

B
(32,2) 33,8 (35,4) 37,9 (40,15) ′′
A
To select your size, I recommend measuring
around the fullest part of your bust with a C
fabric tape measure and comparing that
number with the finished measurements,
taking into consideration how much ease you
prefer. This top was designed to have +6 cm/
2.5" of ease and a cropped length.

Yarn:
CaMaRosa Løvetand 100% Organic Linen, color 406
Perlemor 50 g/140 m (2 oz/153 y)

(4) 4.5 (5) 6 (6) balls.

If you intend to knit a larger garment, you will need

more yarn.

Recommended needles:
3.5 mm/US 4 circular needle.

Gauge:
26 sts x 40 rows = 10 cm/4"(blocked).
In stockinette stitch on 3,5 mm needles or size necessary to
obtain gauge.

Knitting a gauge swatch larger than 10 cm/4" is

recommended to ensure you have sufficient fabric to
count your stitches.
It's very important that both your stitches and rows
match the pattern gauge to ensure that all of your
garment's finished measurements match the pattern.
Remember that patterns are calculated mathematically
based on gauge.
Example: if your stitch gauge is correct but your row
gauge is not and you work the pattern as written, your
armholes will not match the pattern length and your
garment will be out of proportion.

Additional materials:
Yarn needle.
3 mm crochet hook.
Matching color thread + needle.

Sol top ©Mochi knits 2024 1

Abbreviations

CO: Cast-on. SL2 wyif: Slip 2 st purlwise with yarn in front.

K: Knit.
SL2 wyib: Slip 2 st purlwise with yarn in back.
P: Purl. BO: Bind off.
St(s): Stitch(es).

RS: Right side.

WS: Wrong side.

M1R: A right-leaning increase, with the left needle, lift the

thread between the needles from back to front and
knit.
M1L:
Left-leaning increase, with the left needle, lift the
thread between the needles from front to back and
knit through the back loop.

Helpful links:
Knit and purl:

https://youtu.be/E8b5kzHFUAE

Long tail cast-on method:

https://youtu.be/DanPQQRaIhw

Joining back shoulders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_cEUGXfsr4&t=6s

Picking up shoulder stitches with the short tail:

https://youtu.be/wRk464eQWic
M1L M1R increases :

https://youtu.be/fJ2YegIqwfA

German short rows:

https://youtu.be/QdyYTDNXfdo

V neckline slipped stitch border:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CkQ3KjaMjmf/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyL7s8x4PVg&t=3s
Icelandic bind-off:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceOmSJ7gCI4

Backwards loop cast-on:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/1wsWG5wf_FQ

Sol top ©Mochi knits 2022 2

 Shoulders are shaped with German short rows to create a gentle drape. Every time it says "turn," you should turn
your project and work the short row technique. (If you're unsure how to work short rows, see the link on page 2).

Important: the turning point where you work the German short rows will be appear as a V or a double stitch; this
turning st is worked as a single stitch, not 2 sts..

Shoulder 1:
With 3,5 mm/US 4 needles, using the long tail cast-on method (see video on page 2), CO (28) 30 (30) 31 (31) sts.

Row 1 WS: P to last st, K1.

Row 2 RS: K1, M1R, K to last (7) 8 (8) 9 (9) sts, stop and turn using the German Short Row technique.

Row 3 WS: P to last st, K1.

Row 4 RS: K1, M1R, K to last (13) 15 (15) 17 (17) sts, stop and turn.

Row 5 WS: P to last st, K1.

Row 6 RS: K to last 4 sts, P4 (your turning sts will look like 2 sts but should be worked together as 1 st; check the
video on German Short Rows if they're new to you).

watch this video for shoulder 1: https://youtu.be/mu4DN3VS0N0

You have (30) 32 (32) 33 (33) sts. Cut the yarn and place this part of your project on a stitch holder or scrap yarn.

Row 6
Row 5
Row 4
Row 3
Row 2
Row 1

Shoulder 2:
With 3,5 mm/US 4 needles and new ball of yarn, using the long tail cast-on method, CO (28) 30 (30) 31 (31) sts.

Row 1 RS: K to end.

Row 2 WS: K1, p to last (7) 8 (8) 9 (9) sts, stop and turn.

Row 3 RS: K to last st, M1L, K1.

Row 4 WS: K1, p to last (13) 15 (15) 17 (17) sts, stop and turn.

Row 5 RS: K to last st, M1L, K1.

Row 6 WS: K1, P to last 4 sts, K4.

Row 7 RS: K to end of row, using the backward loop method, CO (35) 35 (38) 38 (40) sts.

You have (65) 67 (70) 71 (73) sts.

Row 7
Row 6
Row 5
Row 4 Row 3
Row 2
Row 1

After casting on, return held Shoulder 1 sts to needle and, with right side facing, K to end. At this point your project
should look like this. You have (95) 99 (102) 104 (106) sts. (see video for joining back shoulders on page 2).

K to end Row 7: K to end.

Shoulder 1 Shoulder 2

CO (35) 35 (38) 38 (40) sts

Sol top ©Mochi knits 2022 3

 Back:
Continue as established, keeping in mind that you've just worked a right side row.

Row 1 WS: K4, P to last 4 sts, K4.

Row 2 RS: Knit across row.

Work Rows 1 and 2 until you have a total of (72) 72 (74) 72 (70) rows / (18) 18 (18,5) 18 (17,5) cm /(7) 7 (7.2) 7 (6,8)".
from the outer point of the shoulder where the shoulder sts were cast on, ending with a wrong side row.

If you have more or fewer centimeters, it means your gauge is off. Steam your back to quickly block it and check your
gauge before continuing, as it will affect the entire pattern, especially the armholes and fronts.

Example size XS:

40 rows–––––- 10 cm ( gauge)
72 rows–––––– ? cm (rows you've worked on until now)

Rule of 3 : 72 X 10 / 40 = 18 cm (Knitting patterns are just math based on the gauge)

If your gauge is definitely off, you can stop at the centimeters mentioned above without considering the rows and
continue with the armhole increases. Keep in mind that you will need to do the same on the front. This will only help
to correct the armholes; however, be aware that it will affect the front neckline depth.

Count your rows / cm from this point

At this point your project should look
like this. Back

Shoulder 1 Shoulder 2

Back armhole Increases:

Now you'll begin working the increases that shape the armholes, as follows:

Row 1 RS: K5, M1R, K to last 5 sts, M1L, K5.

Row 2 WS: K4, P to last 4 sts, K4.

Work rows 1 and 2, (5) 6 (6) 8 (10) times total.

You have (105) 111 (114) 120 (126) sts on the needle.
Your armhole should measure approx (20,5) 21 (21,7) 22 (22,5) cm/ (8) 8.2 (8.5) 8,6 (8,8)".

It's very important that your gauge matches the pattern gauge, so all of your measurements match up. Patterns are
calculated mathematically based on gauge.

Cut the yarn and let the sts on a spare needle or cable.

Right front:
With 3,5 mm/US 4 and RS facing, using the short tail pick up technique pick up and knit (28) 30 (30) 31 (31) sts along
the right shoulder, from right to left.

Pick up and knit sts in the traditional way, but rather than using the working yarn directly from the ball, pull a length of
yarn from the ball first and use this end to work across (See video on page 2). Once you've picked up your sts, slide
the needle all the way to the left, until your picked up sts are on the opposite end of the needle, where your working
yarn is now attached, ready to work a right side row.

TIP:
To make the first and last st picked up look neater, make sure you pick them up right in the corner, so the join between
the front and back border is invisible.

Pick-up sts.
Back RS

Sol top ©Mochi knits 2022 4

 From this point forward, follow chart A1, starting with Row 1 on the right side of your project.

Work chart through Row (82) 84 (86) 88 (90). At this point your armhole should measure approx (20,5) 21 (21,7) 22 (22,5)
cm/(8) 8.2 (8.5) 8,6 (8,8)".

Remember that if your gauge is off and you stopped at the centimeter and not at the rows before the increases at
the back yoke, you must do the same on the front. The chart shows the centimeters before the armhole increases as
a reference. Do the same with chart A.2.

Cut the yarn and let the sts on a spare needle or cable, while the left front is being worked.

Left front:
With 3,5 mm/US 4 and RS facing, using the short tail pick up technique pick up and knit (28) 30 (30) 31 (31) sts along
the left shoulder, from right to left. Begin working from Chart A2, beginning with Row 1 on the right side of your
project.

Work through Row (82) 84 (86) 88 (90). At this point your armhole should measure approx (20,5) 21 (21,7) 22 (22,5)
cm/(8) 8.2 (8.5) 8,6 (8,8)".

Pick-up sts

Joining back and fronts:

You have both fronts worked through the armholes; now you'll join the fronts with the back, as follows:

Work Row (83) 85 (87) (89) 91 of Chart A2 (left front), using the backward loop method, CO (10) 10 (12) 14 (18) sts, work
across back sts, CO (10) 10 (12) 14 (18) sts, work across Row (83) 85 (87) (89) 91 of chart A1 (right front).

Continue working back in stockinette stitch, while working the remaining rows on each Chart for your size to finish the
V neck shaping increases.

You should now have (231) 243 (252) 268 (284) sts total on the needle.

knit across back sts

CO sts CO sts

Left Right

Body:
Once front Charts are complete, continue as follows:

RS: K to last 2 sts, sl last 2 sts purlwise Wyib.

WS: P to last 2 sts, sl last 2 sts purlwise Wyif.

Continue as established until your garment measures (38) 40 (42) 44 (48) cm/(15) 15.75 (16.5) 17.25 (19)" from the
shoulder, or your desired length.

Once your project is the desired length, ending with a WS row. BO all sts using the Icelandic Bind-off (see linked video
on page 2.

Sol top ©Mochi knits 2022 5

 Finishing:
Wet block your garment; check the finished measurements on the schematic on page 1. Check out this
video for a tip on removing water from your finished knits without damaging the fabric.

https://youtube.com/shorts/KczKyQmUsXM?feature=share

For a neater finish, once dry, use a steam iron to improve the set of the sts around the armhole and neckline.This silk
becomes softer and neater with steam,

Here's a video showing how I do the final touches: See link below.
https://youtu.be/ScgsGpa5ZwY

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/eFXkmVpoP4A

Ties:

The ties were worked with the same yarn and a 3 mm crochet hook, using a classic chain stitch. Once finished, steam
block to even out the sts. The sample ties are 24 cm/9.5" long, however, you can make yours as long as you like.

To place the ties, I suggest trying on the (blocked) garment and locating the point just where the V shaping ends. Place
the first set of ties here, and the second at the midpoint between the first set of ties and the hem. Of course, you can
place them wherever you like, or even add a third set.

Once you've decided where to place them, slip the tail end of yarn from the top of the chain through the edge stitch
of the top, from front to back, and secure it to the wrong side of the fabric, cutting off any excess. Use matching thread
to sew the end to the wrong side, as if sewing a button.

Chain stitch:

Each chain stitch should be the same size as the one before If your stitches are too loose, shorten up the distance
between your yarn hand and hook hand.

Modifications:

For a longer garment, just continue knitting to the desired length.

For a larger garment, add additional sts at the joining row where you cast on between the front and back for the
underarm (in the joining back and fronts section on the previous page).

If you prefer to overlap the fronts and add buttons, you can, however, keep in mind that if you overlap them by, for
example, 2 cm/.75", your garment will be that much smaller in the front. This garment's intended ease is +6 cm/2.5",
so you do have some space to overlap your fronts, but the final look will be closer fitting, different than the photos, as
they were not designed to overlap. Another option would be to knit a larger size and add buttons.

Sol top ©Mochi knits 2022 6

 Charts:
How to read charts

Purl.

Knit.

Left-leaning increase.

Right-leaning increase.

SL2: Slip 2 sts purlwise /RS wyib WS wyif.

(See video on page 2).

Charts are read from the bottom up. The red boxes on Charts A1 and A2
RS rows are read from right to left. mark the stitch repeat.
WS rows are read from left to right. For example, if it says X3: work the sts
in the red box 3 times total.
Odd numbered rows are right side
rows, read from right to left.
Even numbered rows are wrong side
rows, read from left to right.

White spaces on charts are stockinette: knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side.

Note:

If you're unsure how to work the M1L and M1R or the slipped sts of the V neck, check out the videos on page
2.
This pattern was worked with traditional knit and purl sts, check the link on page 2 to see the standard way to
work these sts so your increases look neat and you aren't left with small holes around your increases.

A.2 Back A.1

Sol top ©Mochi knits 2022 7

 XS
A.1

72 rows=
18 cm/ (7)"

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 XS
A.2

X3

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 S
A.1

72 rows=
18 cm/ (7)"

X3

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 S
A.2

X3

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 M
A.1

74 rows=
18,5 cm/ (7,2)"

X3

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 M
A.2

X3

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 L
A.1

72 rows=
18 cm/ (7)"

X3

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 L
A.2

X3

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 XL
A.1

70 rows=
17,5 cm/ (6,8)"

X3

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 XL
A.2

X3

Sol top ©Mochi knits 2022 17

 Mochi knits ©COPYRIGHT 2022.

This pattern is for personal use, not for commercial reproduction.

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Questions or concerns about patterns, email me at

mochiknits@gmail.com

Sol top ©Mochi knits 2022 18