SUMMER BLISS BLOUSE
Yarn suggestion: Lana Grossa Cool Wool Lace or similar 50g – 400m
Sizes EU: 36 (38) 40 (42) 44 (46) 48
Sizes US: 8 (10) 12 (14) 16 (18) 20
Yarn usage: Since not all testers finished, the below is an estimated amount.
150 (175) 175 (200) 200 (225) 250 g
Needle size 2.75mm or size to obtain gauge
Gauge (Pattern, blocked and dried):
34 sts by 52 rows = 10x10cm
Size recommendations:
Approximately 10 cm / 4 inches negative ease on hip
Tools:
Stitch markers (and maybe a row counter)
Circular needle 60 cm
Spare circular needle of same size or one size smaller
(spare needle can be shorter)
Pattern (seen from RS)
4. x x x
3.
2. x x x
1. Knit st
4. x x x x Purl st
3.
2. x x x
1.
RS Right side K Knit
WS Wrong side P Purl
Sts Stitches BOR Beginning of round
CO Cast-on SM Slip marker
M1L Make 1 Left* M1R Make 1 Right*
Wyif With yarn in front Wyib With yarn in back
Sl Slip stitch P2tog Purl 2 sts together
Ssk Slip-slip-knit (slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit these 2 stitches together
through back loops)
*See for instance https://www.10rowsaday.com/m1l-m1r
1
Measurements (inches are approximate to closest half inch):
Top width Height
Size Base round Shoulder Sleeve Neck
(round)
EU US cm inch cm inch cm inch cm inch cm inch cm inch
36 8 85 33.5 70 27.5 103 40.5 18 7 28 11 58 23
38 10 90 35.5 72 28 110 43.5 18 7 28 11 59 23.5
40 12 93 36.5 75 29.5 113 44.5 19 7.5 29 11.5 61 24
42 14 96 38 79 31 118 46.5 20 8 29 11.5 63 24.5
44 16 99 39 82 32 122 48 21 8.5 30 12 64 25
46 18 102 40 85 33.5 125 49 22 8.5 31 12 64 26
48 20 106 41.5 88 34.5 130 51 22 8.5 31,5 12.5 64 26
Measurements are for the garment lying flat, and after blocking.
Please note that because of the elasticity of the finished object, the bottom
circumference is smaller than the typical hip measurements of the corresponding sizes.
(For example, I am a typical size 38, hips = 97 cm/ 38”. I knit size 38 with a bottom
circumference of 90 cm when lying flat, which sits perfectly on the top of my hip.)
2
Body:
Cast on 288 (304) 312 (328) 336 (344) 360 sts using two balls of yarn (an easier way
when casting on a lot of sts, so you don’t run out – see example here:
https://youtu.be/KBJxBSPhgHQ)
Now begin knitting in the round, no pattern yet, just plain stockinette sts.
Place marker at halfway point (after 144 (152) 156 (164) 168 (172) 180 sts), and at
BOR.
K 10 rounds
P 1 round
Continue in pattern (see chart also):
1. Round – K to BOR
2. Round - *K3, P1*, rep *…* to BOR
3. Round – K to BOR
4. Round - *K1, P1, K2*, rep *…* to BOR
Rounds 1-4 are the pattern. Chart shows two repeats of the pattern
Knit 10 rounds of pattern (work should look like left picture below)
Now knit one round fastening the CO edge like this:
Fold the work along the purl edge, with RS facing out (purl edge becomes the finish at
the bottom of the blouse, see right hand picture above)
Now with pattern side facing you, and stockinette side on the back:
Knit through the first st on the needle AND through first loop of the CO edge, knitting
these together. See pictures on next page.
Continue fastening the CO edge by knitting through sts on needle and loops of CO edge
all the way round to BOR. Make sure to match 1 st on needle to 1 loop on CO edge, so
it doesn’t get twisted or pulled sideways.
3
Top pictures (1. and 2.):
Right hand needle has been put through
st on left hand needle
Picture 3.:
Right hand needle had been put through
st as well as loop on cast-on edge
Picture 4.:
Yarn has been pulled back through both
the loop from edge and the st, knitting
them together
Picture 5 (right):
The back side of the edge fastening
4
Now continue working in the round knitting in pattern till work measures appr. 30 (30)
30 (31) 31 (32) 32 cm from purl edge, or desired length before sleeve shaping (sleeve
shaping measures about 4 (4,5) 4,5 (4,5) 5,5 (5,5) 5,5 cm in height).
End after a 4. Round.
Sleeve shaping
From now on, *…* means knitting in pattern/texture, always making sure the purl
stitches are placed correctly according to previous rows/chart. This will differ slightly
between sizes. Please refer to chart for correct positioning.
Starting on a K round:
1. Round: M1L, K to 1 st before halfway marker, M1R, K1 (SM), M1L, knit to 1 st
before BOR, M1R, K1
2. Round: K1, then knit in pattern *…* to 2 sts before marker, K2 (SM), K1, *…* to
2 sts before BOR, K2
3. Round: K to BOR
4. Round: Repeat round 2.
Repeat these four rounds a total of 6 times = 24 sts increased, 12 sts on either side.
There are now 312 (328) 336 (352) 360 (368) 384 sts total in the round.
Now increase on every second row:
1. M1L, K to 1 st before halfway marker, M1R, K1 (SM), M1L, K to 1 st before BOR,
M1R, K1
2. K1, then knit in pattern *…* to 2 sts before marker, K2 (SM), K1, *…* to 2 sts
before BOR, K2
Repeat these two rounds a total of 10 (12) 12 (12) 14 (14) 14 times = 40 (48) 48 (48)
56 (56) 56 sts increased, 20 (24) 24 (24) 28 (28) 28 on either side.
There are now 352 (376) 384 (400) 416 (424) 440 sts total in the round.
Place first 175 (187) 191 (199) 207 (211) 219 sts on placeholder or spare piece of
thread to rest (these sts will become the back). Last st before the halfway marker is
the “side” st and should not be placed on hold.
Sleeves
You will now begin working RS and WS rows in stead of in the round. Working one side
at a time, and starting with the last half of the round plus the side st – (the other half
of the sts (minus one) have been placed on placeholder to rest.)
Front:
RS: With RS facing and at the end of the round (where the working yarn is
attached), cast on 31 (33) 35 (37) 39 (41) 43 sts using the backward loop
method, turn
5
WS: Purl to other side and at the end of the row, cast on 31 (33) 35 (37) 39
(41) 43 sts using the backward loop method, turn
You now have 239 (255) 263 (275) 287 (295) 307 sts across.
RS: Knit 32 (34) 36 (38) 40 (42) 44, then knit in pattern *…* to the last 3 sts,
K3, turn
Now continue knitting rows like this:
WS: Sl 2 first sts purlwise wyif, P to end, turn
RS: Sl 2 first sts knitwise wyib, knit in pattern *…* to last 3 sts, K3, turn
Repeat till sleeve measures 18 (18) 19 (20) 21 (22) 22 cm / 7 (7) 7.5 (8) 8.5 (8.5) 8.5
inches or desired height. End on a purl row, LEAVING A LONG TAIL of about 3 m /3
yards. You can wind this up and tuck it away so it doesn’t get in the way (if you forget
this part, you can just attach a new thread for the shoulder bind-off, see below).
Place sts on placeholder or spare piece of thread to rest. Start working the resting sts
on the other side like this:
Back:
Starting on a purl row:
On WS, and starting at the far end of the sleeve, pick up 31 (33) 35 (37) 39 (41) 43
sts in the sts you cast on for the front. Pick up 1 st in the side st. Then purl across to
opposite side and pick up 1 st in the side st, then pick up 31 (33) 35 (37) 39 (41) 43
sts in the sts you cast on for the other sleeve, turn.
Now continue knitting back and forth like this:
RS: Sl 2 first sts knitwise, knit in pattern *…* to last 3 sts, K3, turn
WS: Sl 2 first sts purlwise, P to end, turn
Repeat until you have knit same number of rows as for the front. End on a purl row
and DO NOT BREAK YARN.
Shoulder seam bind-off
Note: People are different (and hooray for that!) so the given number of
stitches below is a guideline. I advise measuring yourself shoulder to shoulder over
the neck to estimate your ideal neckline. The gauge is about 3,5 stitches per cm.
For this part, you will need to put the resting sts onto a spare circular needle of same
size or one size smaller. You will now knit the front and back together making a seam
of two sts that run along the top of the shoulder (see pictures next page):
1. With WS of the back facing you and having just purled across for the final row,
continue by purling the first 2 sts together (P2tog) on the other needle (with the
front sts) as if to join to work in the round, turn.
2. Sl 1 st knitwise, ssk, turn
3. Sl 1 st purlwise, P2tog, turn
6
Repeat steps 2. and 3. until you have bound off 72 (80) 82 (88) 92 (95) 100 sts from
each (front and back), ending after a purl row.
Now bind off one side of neck:
- Sl 1 st knitwise, ssk, bind off 95 (95) 99 (99) 103 (105) 107 sts, pull thread
through last knit st to close.
Turn work to bind off the other shoulder in the same way as above, using the long tail
that was left when the sts were set aside to rest. If you forgot to leave a long tail,
attach new thread and proceed with step 1. above.
See pictures below and next page for description of shoulder seam:
1. WS facing, join the two sides 2.
3. 4. RS facing, ready for step 2
7
Top picture 1:
WS facing, join the two sides
Picture 2 and 3:
With active thread, P2tog on opposite
side, then turn
Picture 4:
RS facing, ready for step 2.
Picture 5 (right):
Shoulder seam seen from RS, six sts
have been bound off.
5.
When you have bound off both sides, reinforce the two sides of the neck by making a
few stitches with the bound off tail and a tapestry needle.
Weave in ends.
Block and dry, making sure never to stretch the fabric (see blocking tip on last page)
8
Advice on blocking from talented sweater designer Jenn Steingass (knit.love.wool on Ravelry):
Soak in lukewarm water for 30 minutes. Drain basin. Squeeze out as much water as you can while
it’s still in the basin but don’t wring it out. Transfer to a towel on the floor in a ball without
stretching sweater. Flatten out sweater and roll up towel with sweater inside and step on it until the
towel is very wet. Unroll. Pick up sweater but make sure it’s balled up so it doesn’t stretch and put it
on a flat surface where it will dry. Undo your balled up sweater carefully being careful not to stretch.
I gently stretch and move around the fabric until the sweater looks even and symmetrical. I don’t pin
but some people do.
