Summer Sou��lé

By Penrose Knits
Gauge: 22 sts x 28 rounds = 10 x 10cm / 4 x 4”
20 sts x 28 rounds = 10 x 10cm / 4 x 4”
stockinette in the round on 3.75-4mm needles, washed and blocked

Yarn: DK cotton blend yarn (see page 8 for more recomendations)

703 785 903 1010 (1085 1232 1406 1555) (1764 1883 2039 2254) meters
769 859 988 1106 (1194 1348 1538 1702) (1930 2071 2231 2479) yards
sample uses Knitting For Olive Cotton Merino
70% cotton 30% merino, 250m/273yds per 50g held double
(use given meterage/yardage for each strand)

Needles: 
3 & 4mm circular needles with 40/80cm / 16/30” cables or dpn’s for
sleeves or needles required to meet gauge

Accessories: Stitch markers, embroidery needle, scissors

Sizes: 1 2 3 4 (5 6 7 8) (9 10 11 12)
Sleeve Length: 12.5 12.5 15 15 (15 15 15 16.5) (16.5 17.5 17.5 19)cm
5 5 6 6 (6 6 6 6.5) (6.5 7 7 7.5)” from underarm
Body length: 30.5 30.5 30.5 33 (33 35.5 38 40.5) (43 43 43 45.5)cm
12 12 12 13 (13 14 15 16) (17 17 17 18)” from underarm
Yoke Depth: 19 19 20.5 20.5 (23 23 25.5 25.5) (28 28 29 29)cm
7.5 7.5 8 8 (9 9 10 10) (11 11 11.5 11.5)”

Chest circ cm/” Bicep circ cm/” Chest circ cm/” Bicep circ cm/”
Size
22st gauge 22st gauge 20st gauge 20st gauge

1 78.5 / 31 23.5 / 9.25 86.5 / 34 26 / 10.25

2 85.5 / 33.75 28.5 / 11.25 94.5 / 37.25 32 / 12.5

3 94.5 / 37.25 30 / 11.75 104 / 41 32.5 / 12.75

4 101.5 / 40 30.5 / 12 112 / 44 33.5 / 13.25

5 109 / 43 32.5 / 12.75 120 / 47.25 35.5 / 14

6 117.5 / 46.25 33.5 / 13.25 129 / 50.75 37 / 14.5

7 125 / 49.25 37 / 14.5 138 / 54.25 40.5 / 16

8 132 / 52 40.5 / 16 145.5 / 57.25 44.5 / 17.5

9 139.5 / 55 42.5 / 16.75 153.5 / 60.5 47 / 18.5

10 148 / 58.25 46.5 / 18.25 163 / 64.25 51.5 / 20.25

11 155 / 61 48.5 / 19 171 / 67.25 53.5 / 21

12 163 / 64.25 50 / 19.75 179 / 70.5 55 / 21.75

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Construction
Worked top down and in the round, ribbed neck is worked followed by short rows to
raise the back neck and increases to form a circular yoke. Body and sleeves are
separated and worked in the round with rib cuffs and hem, ruffle is added afterwards.

Gauge & Yarn

It is always a good idea to gauge swatch to make sure your garment fits, and to make
sure you’re happy with the fabric you’re creating. Cotton blend DK yarns can really vary in
thickness so 2 gauges have been provided with corresponding chest/bicep measurements.
Make your gauge swatch and then choose a size with the amount of ease desired. Yardages
are generous to allow for swatching and length changes.

Sizing
When choosing which size to knit it is best to go by the chest measurement.
Due to the close fit of the sleeves it’s also important to note the upper arm
measurement. Ease is up to the knitter, sample shows 22 st gauge size 3 on a bust
measuring 91.5cm / 36” giving 3cm / 1.25” positive ease and a bicep of 30 / 11.75” giving
0cm / 0” positive ease. Instructions for personalising sleeve circumference are also given.

Before you start

As the garment is worked in the round, you may wish to start with a smaller cable and
change to a larger cable as you increase the number of stitches. Ruffle placement
is given however you may wish to personalise this. Try your yoke on regularly.

Use as long a cable as possible for the ruffle as there will be a lot of stitches after the
two increase rounds and you may struggle to move the stitches along the needles
if the cable is too short. Using a smaller left needle may also help. The ruffle can be
quite taxing on the hands and wrists, so make sure to stop knitting and take a break
if you feel any discomfort. Don’t worry too much about stitch count on the ruffle,
it’s ok if you miss an increase here and there, it shouldn’t affect the final look.

Read through the pattern before you start, and you may find it useful to highlight the
numbers that apply to you. If a number is ‘0’, there is no instruction for that size.

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Instructions

Neckband
Using smaller needles, CO 96 94 100 100 (102 104 104 106) (110 114 118 118) sts using a
stretchy method of your choice. Join to work in the round and place BOR M. BOR marks
centre back.
R1 - (K1, P1) to end
Repeat R1 until rib neckband measures 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 (2.5 4 4 4) (4 5 5 5)cm / 1 1 1 1 (1 1.5
1.5 1.5) (1.5 2 2 2)”

Yoke
Change to larger needles
R1 - K to end

Inc R1 -
Sizes 1 & 3 - K0 1, (K3, M1L) to end
Size 2 - K1, M1L, (K3, M1L) to end
Sizes 4-12 - (K2, M1L) to end
(32 32 33 50 (51 52 52 53) (55 57 59 59) sts inc), (128 126 133 150 (153 156 156 159)
(165 171 177 177) sts)

Next R - K to end

Short Rows
Short rows are used to raise the back neckline for a more comfortable fit. I recommend
German short rows but you can use any method you prefer. To make a double stitch,
slip the first st on the left needle to the right needle purlwise, with yarn in front.
Now lift your yarn up and over the right needle to the back of the work, pulling on the stitch
so that the two legs of the stitch are visible on the needle. This is your double stitch.
There is a great tutorial by Purl Soho for this technique here.
Slip your BOR M as and when you come to it.

SR1 - K42 42 44 50 (51 52 52 53) (55 57 59 59), TW

SR2 - DS, P to BOR M, SM, P42 42 44 50 (51 52 52 53) (55 57 59 59), TW
SR3 - DS, K to 4 4 4 4 (4 5 5 5) (5 6 6 6) sts before DS, TW
SR4 DS, P to 4 4 4 4 (4 5 5 5) (5 6 6 6) sts before DS, TW
Work SR 3 & 4 a total of 3 3 3 3 (3 4 4 4) (4 5 5 5) times.
R1 - DS, K to BOR.
You should have 4 4 4 4 (4 5 5 5) (5 6 6 6) DS’s either side of your BOR.
R2 - K to end, knitting both legs of the double stitch together as you come to them.

Cont in stst (knit every st of every round) until piece measures 5 5 5 5 (5 5 5 6.5)
(6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5)cm / 2 2 2 2 (2 2 2 2.5) (2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5)” from CO edge at centre front.

Inc R2 -
K0 0 1 0 (0 0 0 0) (0 0 0 1), (K4 3 3 3 (3 3 3 3) (3 3 3 2), M1L) to end
(32 42 44 50 (51 52 52 53) (55 57 59 88) sts inc), (160 168 177 200 (204 208 208 212)
(220 228 236 265) sts)

Cont in stst until piece measures 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 (9 9 9 10) (10 10 10 10)cm /
3 3 3 3 (3.5 3.5 3.5 4) (4 4 4 4)” from CO edge at centre front.

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Inc R3 -
K0 0 1 0 (0 0 1 2) (1 0 2 1), (K5 4 4 5 (4 4 3 3) (3 3 3 3), M1L) to end
(32 42 44 40 (51 52 69 70) (73 76 78 88) sts inc), (192 210 221 240 (255 260 277 282)
(293 304 314 353) sts)

Cont in stst until piece measures 10 10 11.5 11.5 (12.5 12.5 14 15) (15 15 15 15)cm /
4 4 4.5 4.5 (5 5 5.5 6) (6 6 6 6)” from CO edge at centre front.

Sizes 5-12 only

Ruffle Placement R - P to end

Inc R4 -
K0 0 1 0 (0 0 1 2) (1 0 2 3), (K6 5 5 6 (5 5 4 4) (4 4 4 5), M1L) to end
(32 42 44 40 (51 52 69 70) (73 76 78 70) sts inc), (224 252 265 280 (306 312 346 352)
(366 380 392 423) sts)

Cont in stst until piece measures 14 14 15 15 (18 18 19 20) (21.5 21.5 21.5 21.5)cm /
5.5 5.5 6 6 (7 7 7.5 8) (8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5)” from CO edge at centre front.

Sizes 1-4 only

Ruffle Placement R - P to end

Inc R5
K0 0 1 0 (2 0 3 2) (1 0 0 3), (K7 6 6 7 (8 6 7 5) (5 4 4 5), M1L) to end
(32 42 44 40 (38 52 49 70) (73 95 98 84) sts inc), (256 294 309 320 (344 364 395 422)
(439 475 490 507) sts)

If you wish to personalise your sleeve circumference, see end of page 6.

Cont in stst until piece measures 19 19 20.5 20.5 (23 23 25.5 25.5) (28 28 29 29)cm /
7.5 7.5 8 8 (9 9 10 10) (11 11 11.5 11.5)” from CO edge at front.

Split for body and sleeves

R1 - K40 44 48 51 (55 59 63 66) (69 74 77 80), place 47 58 58 58 (62 64 71 78) (80 89 91 93)
sts on hold, CO 4 4 6 8 (8 9 9 10) (12 12 14 16), K81 89 97 102 (110 118 127 134) (141 149
154 161), place 47 58 58 58 (62 64 71 78) (80 89 91 93) sts on hold, CO 4 4 6 8 (8 9 9 10) (12
12 14 16), K41 45 48 51 (55 59 63 66) (69 74 77 80).
(170 186 205 220 (236 254 271 286) (303 321 336 353) body sts)

Body
Continue to work in stst until body measures 25.5 25.5 25.5 28 (28 30.5 33 35.5)
(38 38 38 40.5)cm / 10 10 10 11 (11 12 13 14) (15 15 15 16)” from underarm.
This is the recommended length for each size, however torso length is very personal,
so if you wish to alter the length of your body, work until desired length minus 5cm/2”.

Change smaller needles

Dec R1 - Sizes 3 7 9 10 12 only - K2tog, P1, (K1, P1) to end

R1 - (K1, P1) to end

Rep R1 until rib measures 5cm / 2”
BO all sts using the method of your choice, sample uses Italian/tubular method.

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Sleeves
Place held sleeve sts back onto the larger needle, now starting at the centre of the CO
under arm sts pick up and K2 2 3 4 (4 4 5 5) (6 6 7 8) sts. Now pick up and knit 1 st in the
gap between sleeve and under arm sts, knitting it through the back loop. This will help
close any holes between the body and the sleeves. K across sleeve sts, pick up 1 st in the gap
between under arm and sleeve as before, pick up and K2 2 3 4 (4 4 4 5) (6 6 7 8) sts from the
CO underarm sts. Place BOR marker.
(53 64 66 68 (72 74 82 90) (94 103 107 111) sts)

Dec R - K1 1 2 3 (3 3 4 4) (5 5 6 7), SSK, K until 3 3 4 5 (5 5 5 6) (7 7 8 9) sts rem, K2tog,

K1 1 2 3 (3 3 3 4) (5 5 6 7)
(2 sts dec; 51 62 64 66 (70 72 80 88) (92 101 105 109) sts)

Cont in stst until sleeve measures 10 10 12.5 12.5 (12.5 12.5 12.5 14) (14 15 15 16.5)cm /
4 4 5 5 (5 5 5 5.5) (5.5 6 6 6.5)” from underarm.
If choosing your own length, knit to desired total sleeve length minus 2.5cm / 1” from
underarm.

Cuff
Change to smaller needles
Dec R1 - Sizes 1 10 11 12 only- K2tog, P1, (K1, P1) to end

R1 - (K1, P1) to end

Rep R1 until cuff measures 2.5cm / 1”
BO all sts using the same method used for the body.

Ruffle
With the RS facing and neckline closest to you and using larger needle, starting at the
centre back pick up and K a st from each purl bumps created from the ruffle placement
round on the yoke. When binding off on round 4, make sure to do so loosely.
(224 254 265 280 (306 312 346 352) (366 380 392 423) sts)
R1 - (K1, YO) to end
R2 - (K1, K1tbl) to end
R3 - (K1, YO) to end
R4 - K1, (k1tbl, BO1, K1, BO1) til 1 st rem, K1tbl, BO1.
Break yarn and join the two ends of the bind off edge together.
You can also use a crochet hook to bind off and speed up the process.

Weave in ends and close any remaining holes at the underarm. Wash and block your
garment, making sure the ruffle is lying flat. You may want to flip your garment a few
times whilst it dries. Congratulations, you’re finished!

Personalising Sleeve Circumference

To make your sleeve circumference smaller than given in the pattern I recommend
decreasing 1 st either side of BOR every 3rd round until desired circumference is achieved.
Do this after you have split the body and sleeves, work 2 rounds before the first decrease.
R1 - K1, SSK, K to 3 sts before BOR, K2tog, K1
R2 - K1, K1TBL, K to end
R3 - K to end

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To make your sleeve circumference bigger than the given pattern we need to place markers
to isolate the sleeve sts. Your BOR is at the centre back.
Marker set up round - K40 44 48 51 (55 59 63 66) (69 74 77 80), PM, K47 58 58 58
(62 64 71 78) (80 89 91 93), PM, K81 89 97 102 (110 118 127 134) (141 149 154 161), PM,
K47 58 58 58 (62 64 71 78) (80 89 91 93), PM, K41 45 48 51 (55 59 63 66) (69 74 77 80).

Using the table below, find the circumference you want your sleeve to have and note the st
count suggested (allow 0 - 2.5cm / 0 - 1” positive ease).
Now subtract the amount of underarm cast on sts for your size. This is the number of sts
you need between each pair of markers.

Desired circumference in sts _______ - Underarm CO sts _______ = _______ sleeve sts

circ cm 25.5 28 30.5 33 35.5 38 40.5 43 45.5 48 51 53.5 56

circ “ 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

22st
55 61 66 72 77 83 88 94 99 105 110 116 121
gauge
20 st
50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 105 110
gauge

size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

underarm
4 4 6 8 8 9 9 10 12 12 14 16
CO sts

Inc R - *K to M, SM, increase across sleeve sts (using M1L) evenly to desired st count, SM;
rep from * once more, K to end.

Cont in stst until piece measures 18 19 20.5 20.5 (20.5 21.5 23 23) (25.5 25.5 28 29)cm /
7 7.5 8 8 (8 8.5 9 9) (10 10 11 11.5)” from CO edge measured at centre front.

Split for body and sleeves

R1 - *K to M, RM, place sleeve sts on hold, CO 4 4 6 8 (8 9 9 10) (12 12 14 16), RM;
rep from * once more, K to end
(170 186 205 220 (236 254 271 286) (303 321 336 353) body sts)

Continue to Body

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Abbreviations

BO bind off P purl

BOR beginning of round PM place marker
Circ circumference rem remain(s)(ing)
cm centimetres RM remove marker
CO cast on st(s) stitch(es)
Cont continue stst stockinette stitch
Dec decrease(d) TW turn work
DS double stitch YO yarn over
R round/row “ Inches
K knit ( ) repeat instructions
K2tog knit 2 stitches together between ( ) as many
M marker(s) times as instructed
mm millimetres

Techniques

M1L - left leaning increase, make a stitch by inserting left needle under the bar
between sts from front to back, then K through the back loop.

SSK - slip one st knitwise, slip one stitch purlwise, place them back onto the left
hand needle and knit them together through the back loop.

Pattern Support - laurapenroseknits@gmail.com

If you would like to share your projects on Instagram make sure to use #summersouffle and
tag @penroseknits

This pattern including all words and images is intended for personal use only and must
not be redistributed or used for any commercial gains.
If you have any queries please contact me at the above email address.

Yarns successfully used by testers

Drops Cotton Merino - 50% Merino 50% Cotton, 110m per 50g
Novita Wool Cotton - 55 % Merino 45% Cotton, 112m per 50g
Sandes Garn Line - 53% Cotton 33% Viscose 14% Linen, 110m per 50g

© Laura Penrose 2022

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