Matcha Jumper en
Matcha Jumper en
                                              1
                                        The MATCHA jumper is a reimagined classic with a
                                        modern cut and clever details. It builds on traditional
                                        knitwear themes, like the saddle shoulder and seaming,
                                        reinterpreting them as part of a seamless garment.
CONSTRUCTION
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
bust circ. 75 - 80 81 - 85 86 - 90 91 - 95 96 - 100 101-105 106-110 111-115 116-120 121-125 126-130 131-135 136-140 141-145 146-150 151-155
the finished garment with the recommended ease will be about (cm)
B bust circ. 90 95 100 105 110 115 120 125 130 135 140 145 150 155 160 165
N neck base circ. 58 58 60 60 61.5 63.5 65 67.5 69 72.5 72.5 75 75 78.5 78.5 78.5
D neckline depth 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11
S sleeve circ. 32.5 33.5 34.5 36.5 37.5 39 40 41 42 43.5 45.5 47.5 49 51 52.5 54.5
C cuff circ. 29.5 30 30.5 32 33 34.5 35 35.5 36 36.5 37 38.5 38.5 39 40 41.5
L1 shoulder top to BO 54 54 54 55 55 55 56 56 57 58 58 58 58 58 59 61
L2 sleeve CO to BO 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44
L3 of which cuff 14.5 14.5 15 15 15.5 16 16 16.5 16.5 17 17 17.5 17.5 18.5 18.5 18.5
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
bust circ. 30 - 32 32 - 34 34 - 36 36 - 38 38 - 40 40 - 42 42 - 44 44 - 46 46 - 48 48 - 50 50 - 52 52 - 54 54 - 56 56 - 58 58 - 60 60 - 62
shoulder width 14½ 14¾ 15 15¼ 15½ 15¾ 16 16¼ 16½ 16¾ 17 17¼ 17½ 17½ 17¾ 18
the finished garment with the recommended ease will be about (inch)
B bust circ. 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66
N neck base circ. 23¼ 23¼ 24 24 24¾ 25½ 25¾ 27 27¾ 29 29 30 30 30½ 30½ 30½
D neckline depth 3½ 3½ 3½ 3½ 3½ 3¾ 3¾ 4 4 4¼ 4¼ 4¼ 4¼ 4½ 4½ 4½
S sleeve circ. 13 13½ 13¾ 14½ 15 15¾ 16 16¼ 16¾ 17½ 18¼ 19 19¾ 20¼ 21 21¾
C cuff circ. 11¾ 12 12¼ 12¾ 13¼ 13¾ 14 14¼ 14¼ 14½ 14¾ 15½ 15½ 15¾ 16 16½
L1 shoulder top to BO 21½ 21½ 21½ 22 22 22 22½ 22½ 22½ 23 23 23 23 23 23½ 23½
L2 sleeve CO to BO 17½ 17½ 17½ 17½ 17½ 17½ 17½ 17½ 17½ 17½ 17½ 17½ 17½ 17½ 17½ 17½
L3 of which cuff 5¾ 5¾ 6 6 6¼ 6½ 6½ 6¾ 6¾ 6¾ 6¾ 7 7 7¼ 7¼ 7¼
                                                                                                                                                               D
                                                                                             N
L1
                                                              S
                                                                                B
L2
L3
front view
Ovelha Negra “Olívia” (350 m / 50 g)                            While measuring, stand up with your arms resting by your
55% Merino and 45% Cotton                                       side. If you usually wear a bra, wear one. Ask a friend for
[3 (4, 4, 4) 4 (4, 4, 5) 5 (5, 5, 5) 5 (5, 6, 6)] balls         help measuring your shoulder width, straight across the
held together with back, from the outer tip of one shoulder blade to the other.
75% Super Kid Mohair and 25% Silk                               jumper and/or your shoulders are more than 3 cm (1¼”)
                                                                narrower, size down. Your shoulder width doesn’t need to
[5 (6, 6, 6) 6 (7, 7, 7) 8 (8, 8, 8) 9 (9, 9, 10)] balls
                                                                perfectly match that of your size. Check the “modifications”
OR a combination of light fingering and lace weight yarn, of on page 14 for more ideas on how to personalize the fit!
each yarn ca. [1050 (1100, 1150, 1200) 1250 (1300, 1400,
1450) 1500 (1550, 1600, 1650) 1700 (1750, 1850, 1950)] m
/ [1150 (1200, 1250, 1300) 1400 (1450, 1550, 1600) 1650         This pattern is formatted as a booklet and is easier to follow
(1700, 1750, 1800) 1850 (1900, 2050, 2150)] yds.                on two-page view mode. If you prefer paper, print the cover
                                                                separately, then print double sided from page 2.
Having trouble getting gauge? Want to know more about
the recommended yarns or looking for alternatives? Check
                                                                Need help at any point? Make sure to check the last pattern
the “notes” section before you start.                           pages for tips, abbreviations, tutorials, and a contact.
Before you start, make sure you’ve skimmed through all sections, especially the setup and the final pages. Use removable stitch
markers or safety pins to track the beginning of each section in your work and use lifelines to your advantage. A Ⓥ next to the
instructions means that a video tutorial is available in the “video tutorials” section.
Use 3.5 mm (US 4) or “main fabric” circular needles. Work 2 setup rows while placing stitch markers (⬤):
If your long-tail cast-on is usually on the tight side, hold two         WS       P3, K1, place ⬤, P [12 (12, 12, 12) 12 (14, 14,
needles together or a larger needle size while casting on.                        14) 16 (16, 16, 18) 18 (20, 20, 20)], place ⬤,
                                                                                  K1, P [22 (22, 24, 24) 26 (26, 28, 28) 26 (28,
LTCO [56 (56, 58, 58) 60 (64, 66, 66) 68 (70, 70, 76)
                                                                                  28, 30) 30 (32, 32, 32)], K1, place ⬤, P2, GSR
76 (82, 82, 82)] sts Ⓥ.
                                                                         On your needles: 4 left front sts, ⬤, [12 (12, 12, 12) 12 (14,
                                                                         14, 14) 16 (16, 16, 18) 18 (20, 20, 20)] left shoulder sts, ⬤,
                                                                         [36 (36, 38, 38) 40 (40, 42, 42) 44 (46, 46, 48) 48 (50, 50,
                                                                         50)] back sts, ⬤, [12 (12, 12, 12) 12 (14, 14, 14) 16 (16, 16,
                                                                         18) 18 (20, 20, 20)] right shoulder sts, ⬤, 4 right front sts.
       st to EOR), M1R, K1 (+10 sts)                        [68 (68, 70, 70) 72 (72, 74, 78) 80 (82, 82, 84) 84 (86, 86,
                                                            86)] back sts, ⬤, [16 (16, 16, 16) 16 (18, 18, 20) 22 (22, 22,
                                                            24) 24 (26, 26, 26)] right shoulder sts, ⬤, [26 (26, 26, 26) 26
STANDARD WS ROW (WSR)                                       (26, 26, 29) 29 (29, 29, 29) 29 (29, 29, 29)] right front sts.
       {K1, LLI} x 2, K1, P1, ⬤, K to ⬤ (resolve DS as      22, 24) 24 (26, 26, 26)] right shoulder sts, ⬤, [45 (45, 47,
                                                            47) 49 (49, 49, 52) 54 (56, 56, 58) 58 (60, 60, 60)] remaining
       it comes), ⬤, P1, K1, {RLI, K1}, K1 (+6 sts)
                                                            front sts to EOR. EOR is amidst the front panel.
WS     WSR
                                                            Work a setup round as follows:
Sizes 1 - 7:
                                                            R1      {K to 1 st before ⬤, P1, ⬤, K to ⬤, ⬤, P1} x 2,
CHEAT SHEET: WORKING IN THE ROUND                        On your needles: [35 (35, 35, 35) 35 (35, 35, 36) 36 (36, 36,
                                                         36) 36 (36, 36, 38)] front sts from BOR, ⬤, [18 (18, 18, 18)
STANDARD ROUND (SR)                                      18 (20, 20, 22) 24 (24, 24, 26) 26 (28, 28, 28)] left shoulder
                                                         sts, ⬤, [84 (84, 86, 86) 88 (88, 90, 90) 92 (94, 94, 96) 96 (98,
SR     {K to 1 st before ⬤, P1, ⬤, K to ⬤, ⬤, P1} x 2,   98, 102)] back sts, ⬤, [18 (18, 18, 18) 18 (20, 20, 22) 24 (24,
       K to EOR                                          24, 26) 26 (28, 28, 28)] right shoulder sts, ⬤, [51 (51, 53,
                                                         53) 55 (55, 55, 56) 58 (60, 60, 62) 62 (64, 64, 66)] remaining
                                                         front sts to EOR.
BODY INCREASE ROUND (BIR)
                                                         R2       SR
SHOULDER SHAPING
                                                         On your needles: [37 (38, 40, 42) 44 (45, 47, 50) 52 (52, 55,
Sizes 1 - 7 and 16:
                                                         57) 60 (60, 63, 65)] front sts from BOR, ⬤, [60 (60, 62, 64)
                                                         66 (68, 70, 70) 72 (74, 78, 82) 86 (88, 92, 94)] left sleeve
Work 6 rounds as follows:
                                                         sts, ⬤, [88 (90, 96, 100) 106 (108, 114, 118) 124 (126, 132,
{BIR, SR} x 2, BSIR, SR
                                                         138) 144 (146, 152, 156)] back sts, ⬤, [60 (60, 62, 64) 66
                                                         (68, 70, 70) 72 (74, 78, 82) 86 (88, 92, 94)] right sleeve sts,
Sizes 8 - 15:                                            ⬤, [53 (54, 58, 60) 64 (65, 67, 70) 74 (76, 79, 83) 86 (88, 91,
                                                         93)] remaining front sts to EOR.
Work 4 rounds as follows:
BIR, SR, BSIR, SR                                        I recommend rechecking gauge and trying on at this point.
Work the body in the round, knitting the knit stitches K1TBL} to about the middle of the side panel, M1LP,
and purling the purl stitches, until it measures about K1TBL, {P1, K1TBL} to 3 sts before ⬤, M1LP, K1TBL,
[18.5 (18.5, 18, 18) 18 (17, 17, 17) 17 (17, 16.5, 16.5) P1, K1TBL,
Change to 3 mm (US 2.5) or “cuff / hem” circular Size 1: {K1TBL, P1} to EOR
HEM SLEEVE
Work about [28 (28, 28, 28) 28 (28, 28, 30) 30 (32, If you need to shorten/lengthen the sleeves (see p. 3), adjust
32, 32) 32 (34, 34, 34)] rounds in half-twisted rib the length of this section and keep the cuff per pattern.
Work 2 setup rounds for an Italian bind-off as follows:         Place a removable stitch marker (○) in the middle of
                                                                the PUK stitches on your needles.
R1      {K1TBL, S1PYF} to EOR
R2      {S1PYB, P1} to EOR                                      A sleeve decrease round is worked as follows:
SLEEVE SETUP                                                    (K) until it measures about [- (-, -, -) - (-, 28.5, 28)
                                                                27 (27, 26.5, 25.5) 25 (25, 25, 25)] cm / [- (-, -, -) -
Start with either sleeve. Once you bind off the first,          (-, 11½, 11¼) 10¾ (10¾, 10½, 10¼) 10 (10, 10, 10)]”
work the second the same way.                                   from the underarm CO, or your desired length.
                                                                At the same time, work a decrease round every
Slip the sleeve stitches onto 3.5 mm (US 4) or “main
                                                                [- (-, -, -) - (-, 26th, 26th) 19th (19th, 16th, 11th) 8th (8th, 6th,
fabric” short circular needles. Join new yarn.
                                                                6th)] round, in total about [- (-, -, -) - (-, 3, 3) 4 (3, 4, 6)
Work a sleeve setup round as follows:                           8 (8, 10, 10)] decrease rounds.
R PUK 1 st for every underarm CO st, K all sts After the last round, remove EOR marker, K to ○,
to the first PUK st, join to work in the round remove ○ and place new EOR marker
CUFF SETUP                                                        If the cuff seems to be pulling in too much (check bottom
                                                                  circumference on page 3), you might want to go back to its
Change to 3 mm (US 2.5) or “cuff / hem” short                     setup and increase more often, or block it aggressively.
circular needles.
                                                                  All sizes:
Use the needle size necessary to get cuff/hem stitch gauge!
                                                                  Work 2 setup rounds for an Italian bind-off as follows:
The cuff setup round is worked in half-twisted rib
                                                                  R1      {K1TBL, S1PYF} to EOR
{K1TBL, P1} while increasing 1 stitch (M1LP) about
                                                                  R2      {S1PYB, P1} to EOR
every 9 stitches (after a K1TBL and instead of a P1).
At the end, the rib sequence (K1TBL, P1) must be
                                                                  Cut the yarn, leaving a tail 4 times as long as the bind-
unbroken across an even number of stitches.
                                                                  off edge. Thread the yarn through a tapestry needle
Work as follows:
                                                                  and bind off using the Italian bind-off Ⓥ.
                                                                  On your needles: about [108 (108, 112, 112) 116 (120, 122,
A decrease round is now worked as follows:
                                                                  126) 130 (134, 134, 142) 142 (150, 150, 150)] neck sts.
about [… - (4, 4, 6) 8 (8, 10, 10)] decrease rounds. the hem or work it double as long and seam per pattern.
It’s not important to get a specific stitch count at the end of   Fold the neck inwards and sew down its top edge to
the cuff, but make sure to decrease only often enough so          the neckline edge using a sewn bind-off method Ⓥ.
that the twisted rib sequence is unbroken before continuing.
On conversions: I use the metric system and Use this if you R gauge in 10 cm = 25 or fewer R OR if your
On yarn substitutions: Olívia is a rather unique light [your row gauge in 10 cm (4”)] : 28 = ____ .
fingering weight yarn. It’s lightweight (350 m / 50 g!),     Whenever a R count is given for a pattern section, you can
airy and slightly tweedy. Either recommended mohair          convert it to your R gauge by multiplying it by your RGAF.
blend is buttery soft and a little easier on the skin than
                                                             EVEN/ODD RULE: If a section has an even/odd number of
most similar yarns. To achieve a similar drape, prefer
                                                             rows, make sure you get/add/skip an even/odd number of
yarns with a similar fiber composition. To maximize
                                                             rows, rounding up or down your calculations if necessary!
shimmer, pick a light fingering yarn that’s slightly
tweedy, like Olívia. For a warmer and denser jumper          R GAUGE IN 10 CM = 25 R OR LESS:
with a little more structure, opt for a 100% merino
                                                             Adjust the “body” (p. 9) and “sleeve” (p. 10)
yarn instead of a merino-cotton blend.
                                                             sections by working to the suggested lengths,
On shoulder width: Ask a friend to measure across            ignoring the given round counts. If you’re working
your back as depicted in the schematic below.                sleeve decrease rounds, convert their spacing using
                                                             your RGAF. You can also adjust the length of the cuff
                                                             and hem if you see fit.
R GAUGE IN 10 CM = 30 R OR MORE:
10 cm] and divide by 10. repetitions. In 19 times, you could do it every other repeat,
st/R count → cm: multiply by 10 and divide by                ({SIR, SR} x 2, SR, {SIR, SR} x 2, SR …).
[your st/R gauge at 10 cm].
inch → st/R count: multiply by [your st/R gauge at
                                                             On length adjustments: If you adjust the length of a
4”] and divide by 4.
                                                             section by adding/skipping rows, you might need
st/R count → inch: multiply by 4 and divide by
                                                             more/less yarn than indicated for your size.
[your st/R gauge at 4”].
WIDER SHOULDERS                                              If you usually wear a bra, wear one while measuring. If you
                                                             need help converting, check the “Notes” section.
If your shoulder width is more than 3 cm (1¼”) larger
than indicated in the size chart for your size, instead      Tie a piece of yarn at full bust level, making sure it
of sizing up, you can add ca. 2 cm (1”) to the runs parallel to the floor. Have someone measure the
shoulders to ensure a better fit:                            distance between the top of your shoulder and the
                                                             yarn both at the back and at the front. If the front
At the end of the “shoulder shaping” (page 8), add           measurement is bigger by more than 3.5 cm (1½”),
3 x {BIR, SR} (6 extra rounds, + 24 sts).                    this mod is for you. Difference front/back: ____ cm/”.
During “sleeve shaping” (page 8), a body decrease            Convert that difference to R to get the number of
round (BDR) can be worked as follows:                        GSR: ____ (p. 13). Divide by 2 to get the number of
                                                             GSR (removable) markers: ____ you need to place
BDR      {K to 4 st before ⬤, K2tog, K1, P1, ⬤, K1,
                                                             on each side of the front.
         RLI, K to 2 sts before ⬤, K1, LLI, K1, ⬤, P1,
         K1, SSK} x 2, K to EOR (+0 sts)                     Measure the horizontal distance between bust points
                                                             and add 2 cm (1”). Convert to sts (p. 13) to get
Sizes 1 - 5: swap the first 6 {SIR, SR} for {BDR, SR}.       BP to BP: ____ sts.
Sizes 6 - 16: swap the first 4 {SIR, SR} for {BDR, SR}
and swap the first 2 {SBIR, SR} for {SIR, SR}.               Once your work reaches full bust level (this can
                                                             happen at any point in the pattern!), count your front
as possible along that section (similar to adjusting for as follows: SIDE to BP, place GSR marker, BP to BP,
a different gauge).                                          place GSR marker, SIDE to BP. Space the remaining
                                                             GSR markers evenly along each side of the front.
During “sleeve shaping” (page 8), for every cm (½”)          R1 RS    work the next round per pattern to the 2nd
you wish to add to your sleeves, work 1 fewer                         GSR marker (note down that round), turn!
{SBIR, SR} repeat. Right after those, work the               R1 WS P to marker, turn!
following set of rows as many times as you’ve
skipped {SBIR, SR} repeats:                                  Then work the remaining GSR as follows:
R1 {K to 3 sts before ⬤, K1, LLI, K1, P1, RS K to next GSR marker on the needles, turn!
⬤, K1, {RLI, K1} x 2, K to 3 sts before ⬤, WS P to next GSR marker on the needles, turn!
ABBREVIATIONS AND TECHNIQUES                                   M1R: Insert the left needle under the strand between
                                                               stitches from back to front and pick up this yarn. Knit
⬤             stitch marker (/slip marker)
                                                               through the front loop.
○             removable stitch marker (/slip marker)
BLCO          Backwards Loop Cast-On (/Cast On)                M1L: Insert the left needle under the strand between
BO            Bind-off / Bind Off                              stitches from front to back and pick up this yarn. Knit
BOR           Beginning of Row/Round                           through the back loop.
CO            Cast-On / Cast On
                                                               M1LP: Insert the left needle under the strand
DS            Double Stitch
                                                               between stitches from front to back and pick up this
EOR           End of Row/Round
                                                               yarn. Purl through the back loop.
GSR           German Short Rows
K             Knit
                                                               K2tog: Start with the working yarn in the back. Insert
K1TBL         Knit 1 Through the Back Loop
                                                               the right needle into the first two stitches on the left
K2tog         Knit 2 together
                                                               needle knitwise and knit them together.
LLI           Left Lifted Increase
LTCO          Long-Tail Cast-On                                K2togTBL: Start with the working yarn in the back.
M1L           Make 1 Left                                      Insert the right needle into the first two stitches on
M1LP          Make 1 Left Purl                                 the left needle purlwise and knit them together
M1R           Make 1 Right                                     through the back loop.
P             Purl
                                                               P2tog: Start with the working yarn in the front. Insert
P2tog         Purl 2 together
                                                               the right needle into the first two stitches on the left
PU            Pick(ed) Up
                                                               needle purlwise and purl them together.
PUK           Pick(ed) Up and Knit
R             Row/Round                                        SSK: Start with the working yarn in the back. Slip the
RLI           Right Lifted Increase                            next two stitches individually knitwise. Slip them back
RS            Right Side                                       onto the left needle, this time without changing their
S1PYB         Slip 1 Purlwise with the Yarn in the Back        orientation, then knit them together through the back
S1PYF         Slip 1 Purlwise with the Yarn in the Front       loop.
SSK           Slip-Slip-Knit
SSP           Slip-Slip-Purl                                   SSP: Start with the working yarn in the front. Slip the
st(s) Stitch(es) next two stitches individually knitwise. Slip them back
WS Wrong Side onto the left needle, this time without changing their
{“…”}         Repeat “…” for as long as indicated              orientation, then purl them together through the back
                                                               loop.
RLI: Locate the stitch below the first stitch on the left
needle. Use the right needle to lift its right leg onto
the left needle (insert needle into the stitch from the
back), then knit it Ⓥ.
VIDEO TUTORIALS
                                        I had the pleasure to have an absolute dream team working with me on this design!
                        Everyone put their heart into this project, providing precious feedback, being supportive of one another and keeping
                           the warmest test atmosphere for over two months. For all that and more, my testers have my deepest gratitude.
           A very special thanks goes to Ovelha Negra for kindly providing us with a discount for testing, and to Lisa and Martin for proofreading with me.