the Pippi Pullover
by Lea
@kisskiss.rhinestones
About the pattern
This Pippi Långstrump inspired sweater pattern
is a simple drop shoulder design with beginner-
friendly stranded colourwork. It is knit top down
and in the round, and you can flexibly choose a
size with your preferred amount of ease.
Tag me and #pippipullover on instagram so
I can see your creations! If you are having any
trouble with the pattern, you are welcome to
email me or message me over there too.
Happy knitting!
Sizing: Gauge:
Sizes: 1 (2) 3 (4) 5 (6) 7 (8) 9 (10) 18 sts x 27 rows on 5mm needles = 10x10 cm
To fit bust circumference: 75-95 (85-105) 95-
115 (105-125) 115-135 (125-145) 135-155 Make sure to include a colourwork section in
(145-165) 155-175 cm your swatch as some knitters need to go up a
needle size for their colourwork sections.
Finished measurements:
Body circumference: 118 (126) 135 (146) 155
(166) 175 (186) 195 cm Yarn requirements:
Back width: 65 (70) 75 (81) 86 (92) 97 (103)
108 cm Main yarn
Length: 59 cm (adjustable) 500 (500) 550 (600) 600 (650) 700 (750) 800g
Yoke depth: 22 (22.5) 22.5 (24) 25 (25.5) 27 De rerum natura Gilliat (100% merino wool,
(28) 28.5 cm 150m/100g) in col. poivre blanc
Sleeve length: 45 cm (adjustable)
Sleeve circumference: 44 (51) 53 (58) 62 (67) Contrast colours
71 (78) 80 cm 25 (25) 30 (30) 35 (35) 35 (40) 40 g each of
Filcolana Peruvian Highland Wool (100% wool,
This is a very roomy sweater, so each size will 100m/50g) in col. Rust and col. fisherman blue
fit quite a wide range of bust circumferences.
The sweater can be worn with between 20 and
40 cm positive ease comfortably, hence the Other things you are going to need:
wide ‘to fit’ ranges. Just note that the amount of stitch marker, spare needle or scrap yarn to put
ease at the shoulders will impact your sleeve stitches on hold, tapestry needle
length.
For reference: my sample is size 2 and has 40
cm positive ease on me.
© kisskiss.rhinestones
b
b
a: 118 (126) 135 (146) 155
(166) 175 (186) 195 cm
b: 65 (70) 75 (81) 86 (92) 97
(103) 108 cm
c: 59 cm (adjustable)
d: 22 (22.5) 22.5 (24) 25
(25.5) 27 (28) 28.5 cm
e: 45 cm (adjustable)
f: 44 (51) 53 (58) 62 (67) 71
(78) 80 cm
a
Glossary f
RS = right side This pattern requires you to work German
short rows (GSR) to shape the shoulders:
WS = wrong side
When the pattern says ‘turn’, turn your work
st/sts = stitch/stitches and sl1p wyif, then pull the yarn over and
behind the work until you see the two legs of
K = knit the st on your right needle, creating a so-called
‘double stitch’.
P = purl
Continue to work in pattern and knit or purl the
CO = cast on double stitch as one when you get to it. If you
have never worked GSR, I suggest watching a
SM = marker youtube tutorial before you start.
PM = place marker
M1L = make 1 left, i.e. increase one stitch by
picking up the horizontal strand between the
stitches from front to back and knitting through
the back loop
M1R = make 1 right, i.e. increase one stitch by
picking up the horizontal strand between the
stitches from back to front and knitting as you
normally would
Sl1p wyif = slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in front
© kisskiss.rhinestones
Pattern starts here
Back
You are first going to work the back yoke of your sweater flat, shaping the shoulders with German
short rows (GSR). The GSR are going to create a trapezoid shape. When then pattern says ‘turn’,
turn your work and create a double stitch as explained in the Glossary.
CO 106 (110) 116 (120) 126 (130) 134 (138) 146 sts. Cut your yarn and slip 33 (35) 37 (38) 41 (42)
43 (45) 47 sts onto the right needle without knitting them. You are now going to work GSR back
and forth, working a few more stitches every row until you are back at the original stitch count:
R1 (WS): P 40 (40) 42 (44) 44 (46) 48 (48) 52, turn
R2 (RS): K 45 (45) 47 (49) 49 (51) 53 (53) 57, turn
R3: P 5 (5) 5 (6) 6 (6) 6 (7) 7 past previous turn, turn
R4: K 5 (5) 5 (6) 6 (6) 6 (7) 7 past previous turn, turn
R5-10: Work R3-4 another 3 times.
R11: P to end of row
R12: K to end of row
R13: P to end of row
Now work your first colourwork section in your red CC:
R14 (RS): *k1 using CC, k1 using MC* to end of row
R15 (WS): *p1 using MC, p1 using CC* to end of row
R16: using CC, knit
R17: repeat R15
R18: repeat R14
Note that in my sweater, the red (or blue) stitches above and below the red (or blue) line match up
whereas they shift one stitch over on the original Pippi Långstrump sweater. If you want the original
look, work R17 and 18 of this and all following colourwork sections as follows:
R17*: *p1 using CC, p1 using MC* to end of row
R18*: *k1 using MC, k1 using CC* to end of row
Work 20 rows in stockinette stitch using MC, then work the colourwork section again, this time in
your blue CC. Then work another 20 rows in stockinette, and another red colourwork repeat.
Finally, work 0 (2) 2 (2) 4 (4) 6 (6) 8 rows in stockinette using your MC, ending on a WS row.
Sizes 4-8 only:
Increase to shape the armholes as follows:
R1 (RS): K2, M1R, K to last 2 sts, M1L, K2 (= 2 sts increased)
R2 (WS): P to end of row
Work R1-2 a total of - (-) - (2) 2 (3) 4 (5) 5 times. You should have - (-) - (124) 130 (136) 142 (148)
156 sts on your needles.
All sizes:
You have completed the back yoke. It should measure around 22 (22.5) 22.5 (24) 25 (25.5) 27 (28)
28.5 cm from the outermost edges of the shoulders (not including the short rows). Cut the yarn.
Front
You are now going to pick up stitches along the back CO edge for each of the shoulder and increase
for the neckline before connecting the two pieces for the front yoke.
© kisskiss.rhinestones
Front left (left when wearing the sweater):
With the RS of the back yoke facing you, using your MC yarn, and starting 33 (35) 37 (38) 41 (42)
43 (45) 47 sts from the leftmost edge, pick up 33 (35) 37 (38) 41 (42) 43 (45) 47 sts.
Again, work GSR to shape the shoulder:
R1 (WS): P to end of row
R2 (RS): K 5 (5) 5 (6) 6 (6) 6 (7) 7, turn
R3: P to end of row
R4: K 5 (5) 5 (6) 6 (6) 6 (7) 7 past previous turn, turn
R5: P to end of row
R6-11: work R4-5 another 3 times
R12: K to end of row
R13: P to end of row
You are now going to work the colourwork pattern in your red CC, and start increasing to shape the
neckline in R16. Again, if you want the offset colourwork pattern, adjust R17 and R18 accordingly:
R14 (RS): K 0 (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 0 (0) 1 in MC, *K1 in CC, K1 in MC* to end of row
R15: *P1 in MC, P1 in CC* to last 0 (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 0 (0) 1 sts, P 0 (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 0 (0) 1 in MC
R16 (using CC): K2, M1L, K to end of row
R17: *P1 in MC, P1 in CC* to last 1 (1) 1 (1) 0 (0) 1 (1) 0 sts, p1 (1) 1 (1) 0 (0) 1 (1) 0 in MC
R18: K 1 (1) 1 (1) 0 (0) 1 (1) 0 in MC, *K1 in CC, K1 in MC* to end of row
R19 (using MC): P to end of row
Work 12 (12) 12 (14) 14 (16) 16 (16) 16 rows in stockinette in MC, increasing at the side of the neck
on every RS row as follows:
R20 (RS): K2, M1L, K to end of row
R21: P to end of row
You should have 40 (42) 44 (46) 49 (51) 52 (54) 56 sts on the needles, and have completed the Front
left. Cut your yarn.
Front right:
With the RS of the back yoke facing you, using your MC, and starting at the rightmost edge of the
back yoke, pick up 33 (35) 37 (38) 41 (42) 43 (45) 47 sts.
Again, work GSR to shape the shoulder:
R1 (WS): P 5 (5) 5 (6) 6 (6) 6 (7) 7, turn
R2 (RS): K to end of row
R3: P 5 (5) 5 (6) 6 (6) 6 (7) 7 past previous turn, turn
R4: K to end of row
R5-10: work R3-4 another 3 times
R11: P to end of row
R12: K to end of row
R13: P to end of row
As for front left, you are now going to work the colourwork pattern in your red CC, and start increa-
sing to shape the neckline in R16:
R14 (RS): *k1 using CC1, k1 using MC* to last 0 (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 0 (0) 1 sts, k0 (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 0 (0)
1 using CC
R15 (WS): p0 (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) 0 (0) 1 using CC, *p1 using MC, p1 using CC* to end of row
R16: using CC1, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2
R17: p1 (1) 1 (1) 0 (0) 1 (1) 0 using CC, *p1 using MC, p1 using CC* to end of row
R18: *k1 using CC1, k1 using MC* to last 1 (1) 1 (1) 0 (0) 1 (1) 0 sts, k1 (1) 1 (1) 0 (0) 1 (1) 0
using CC
Continue in pattern, increasing 1 st at the neck edge on every RS row another 6 (6) 6 (7) 7 (8) 8 (8)
8 times, and ending on a WS row. You should have 40 (42) 44 (46) 49 (51) 52 (54) 56 sts on your
© kisskiss.rhinestones
needles. You have completed the Front right. This time, don’t cut the yarn, as you are now going to
connect the two front pieces.
Front yoke:
R1 (RS): K across the front right, cast on 26 (26) 28 (28) 28 (28) 30 (30) 34 sts using backward
loop method, knit across the front left
R2: P to end of row
You should have 106 (110) 116 (120) 126 (130) 134 (138) 146 sts on your needles.
At this point you have worked 15 (15) 15 (17) 17 (19) 19 (19) 19 rows since your last row of colour-
work. Work another 5 (5) 5 (3) 3 (1) 1 (1) 1 rows, ending on a RS row, then work a colourwork section
in your blue CC as for the back.
Work 20 rows in stockinette stitch using MC, then work the colourwork section again, this time in
your blue CC. Then work another 20 rows in stockinette, and another red colourwork repeat.
Finally, work 0 (2) 2 (2) 4 (4) 6 (6) 8 rows in stockinette using your MC, ending on a WS row.
Sizes 4-8 only:
As for the back, increase to shape the armholes as follows:
R1 (RS): k2, M1R, knit to last 2 sts, M1L, k2
R2 (WS): P to end of row
Repeat R1 and R2 another - (-) - (1) 1 (2) 3 (4) 4 times. You should have - (-) - (124) 130 (136) 142
(148) 156 sts on your needles.
Body
You are now going to join the front and back panels together to then work the body of your sweater
in the round.
R1 (RS): knit across front sts, cast on 0 (4) 6 (8) 10 (14) 16 (20) 20 sts using the backward loop
method, knit across back sts, cast on another 0 (4) 6 (8) 10 (14) 16 (20) 20 sts using the bac
ward loop method
You should now have 212 (228) 244 (264) 280 (300) 316 (336) 352 sts on your needles for the body.
You are now going to knit the body of the sweater in the round. Place a SM to mark the beginning of
the round. At this point you have worked 1 (3) 3 (7) 9 (11) 15 (17) 19 rows/rounds in MC after the
last colourwork section. Knit 19 (17) 17 (13) 11 (9) 5 (3) 1 more rounds using MC, then work another
colourwork section in your blue CC as follows:
R1-2:*k1 using CC, k1 using MC* until end of round
R3: K all sts using CC
R4-5: repeat R1-2
Work 20 rows in stockinette stitch using MC, then work the colourwork section again, this time in
your red CC. Then work another 20 rows in stockinette, and another blue colourwork section.
Your sweater should measure 26 (25) 25 (23.5) 23 (22) 20.5 (20) 19.5cm from the underarm cast-on.
Work 8 more rounds using MC or to desired length minus 8cm. You are now going to work 8cm of
3x1 ribbing for the hem of your sweater:
R1: *k3, p1* to end of round.
Repeat R1 until the hem measures 8cm, then bind off. You have completed the body of the sweater.
© kisskiss.rhinestones
Sleeves
You are now going to pick up sts along the armhole and then work the sleeve in the round. Note that
the sleeves have a lot of positive ease, especially on the larger sizes. If you want to take away some
of that excess room, decrease left and right of the beginning of round SM every few of rows until
you’re happy with the sleeve width.
Starting at the centre of the underarm cast-on sts (for size 1, start at the bottom of the armhole), pick
up 0 (2) 3 (4) 5 (7) 8 (10) 10 sts from the underarm cast-on, pick up 0 (0) 0 (4) 4 (6) 8 (10) 10 sts
along the diagonal of the underarm shaping, pick up 40 (42) 42 (44) 46 (46) 48 (50) 52 sts along the
side of the armhole, pick up 40 (42) 42 (44) 46 (46) 48 (50) 52 sts down the other side of the armhole,
pick up 0 (0) 0 (4) 4 (6) 8 (10) 10 sts along the underarm shaping, and pick up 0 (2) 3 (4) 5 (7) 8 (10)
10 sts from the underarm cast-on.
You should have 80 (92) 96 (104) 112 (120) 128 (140) 144 sts on your needles. Place a SM to mark
the beginning of round.
Work 20 rows in stockinette stitch using MC, then work a colourwork section in your red CC as
follows:
R1-2:*k1 using CC, k1 using MC* until end of round
R3: K all sts using CC
R4-5: repeat R1-2
Then work another 20 rows in stockinette, and a blue colourwork section. Repeat once more such
that you have worked a total of 4 colourwork sections on your sleeve, or to desired sleeve length
minus 8cm.
You are now going to work 8cm of 3x1 ribbing for the cuff of your sleeve:
R1: *k3, p1* to end of round.
Repeat R1 until the cuff measures 8cm, then bind off. Repeat for the other sleeve.
Neckband
Finally, you are going to pick up sts along the neckhole and knit a folded neckband in 2x1 ribbing.
Note that I chose to work the neckband in 2x1 ribbing because it looks similar to 3x1, but I find it to
be stretchier. If you want to work your neckband in 3x1 ribbing to match the cuffs and hem, you will
need to make sure you pick up a number of stitches that is divisible by 4.
With RS of the back facing, in your MC yarn, and starting at the right hand edge of the back neck,
pick up 81 (81) 84 (90) 90 (93) 96 (96) 105 sts evenly around the neckline, and place a marker for
the beginning of the round.
R1: *k2, p1* to end of round
R2-14: repeat R1 another 13 times
R15: P all sts
R16-29: repeat R1 another 13 times
Bind off loosely, then fold the neckband inwards along the purl row and sew it down.
Gently wash your sweater and lay it flat to dry completely, then weave in your ends. You have
completed your Pippi Pullover!
© kisskiss.rhinestones
© kisskiss.rhinestones
