Making the Wonder Woman Costume
The Skirt
In this pattern there is everything you need to recreate the Wonder Woman redesign by the
cosplayer Goldbud it is sized for a 37” Bust 27” Waist and 38” Hips if you are significantly
off of these measurements you will need to adjust to suit. The pattern can also be altered for a
multitude of other uses, just by changing the tooling designs, dye colours, and basic shapes.
You will need;
Thick/thin leather for body armour, vambraces, shin guards, headband, pauldron, belt and
skirt panels
Suede for belt
Leather for bodice
Leather dye/paint pens
Tooling stuff
Knife/scissors
Antiquing fluid/gel
Sponge/brush
Rivets of various sizes.
Buckles
Wax
Skirt
- Cut out the pattern pieces out of thin leather.
- At this point, go around the edge of the panels using a stitch groover. I found that this
adds just a little extra detail and is a sure way of keeping the borders the same size. Bevel the
edges on both sides using a smaller sized beveller.
- Once cut and bevelled, you will need to bruise the leather heavily so it will hang
nicely from the belt and not look too rigid. This process also makes the leather looked more
worn/aged.
- Next, you can add tooling. Using the same process as with the vambraces, mark out
your design and use the stylus, stamps and a hammer until you are happy with the design.
Again, you can use the original design or use your own if you are making the skirt for a
different costume.
- Once the leather has dried from the tooling, the panels can be dyed. To prep the
leather for the dye, soak each panel in cold water for a few moments before applying the dye,
as this will help the dye permeate the surface better. When the first layer of dye is dry, you
can decide whether you want to add another layer if it is not yet as dark as you would like.
- Bear in mind that when waxing the colour will usually darken slightly under the heat
and become richer in tone.
- Now that the dye is dry, you can go in and add detail. I added decorative rivets and
domes to the panels. I then used metallic pens again to gild the pattern, on the stars, chevrons
and at the edge border. You will need to wait for the metallic to dry for a few days before
going in and adding antiquing on top, as you don’t want the metallic to smudge.
- Once antiqued you can wax the panels! I found it is easier to do this before the panels
are added to the skirt. It can be done after, it’s just more convenient to do it before hand.
- Cut the belt part out of suede, marking on where the holes are as you go. Punch out
the holes and add the eyelets at the side.
- Next you can rivet the panels to the belt
General techniques
All these techniques can be applied to multiple items, and there are more in depth
explanations in the Crystal Anvil Vol 1 and lots of other tutorials online. Here are the basics
though!
Tooling
- Soak the leather in cold water for a few minutes, then let it dry until it is damp but not
wet. This makes it much easier to tool.
- You can use swivel knives to mark out your design and then go in with a stylus or
stamps to add more detail and texture. When using the stamps, you can use a rubber mallet to
press them to the leather.
Dying
- To prep leather for dying, soak it in cold water for a few moments. This will help the
dye permeate the surface better.
- You can apply the first layer in a dye bath, or even with sponges if you work quickly
to avoid streaks. If you use sponges, don’t try and make the dye stretch as far as it will go;
you won’t get an even layer if you do this.
- Once dry, if the colour is not dark enough you can apply another layer with a sponge
or dauber, working in circular motions. This helps to avoid streak marks.
Antiquing/Ageing
- When covering a large area, I usually get a sponge and some gel, dab off any excess
on some paper and run the sponge over the leather. It’s important to build it up gradually
rather than end up with a big splodge of colour which can’t be blended out. For this reason
some people find it easier to use a brush for antiquing, and I would certainly recommend
using a brush for detailed areas. You can use bigger brushes and use a technique called dry
brushing, or get a smaller one for detailed areas.
- When the first layer is dry you can go back in with more antiquing if you think that
some parts are not dark enough.
- While antiquing, think about where the natural weathering would occur; around the
buckles, underneath layers and overlays, in the tooling etc.
- Don’t be afraid to just dive in with this – if it looks too precise it will look more
painted than weathered, although you might prefer this depending on what look you’re after!
Waxing
- Waxing leather helps seal in the dye and protect it from things like small scratches
etc.
- Apply a layer of wax/dubbin to the inside of the leather. Using a heat gun, the wax
will sink into the leather quite quickly.
- On the outside of the leather, apply the wax in the same way. When applying the heat
gun, you will notice that the wax will go shiny. This is the point where you will want to buff
it into the leather with a non-fibrous cloth.
I hope you have fun creating your costume! If you ever have any questions please go the the
Crystal Anvil page, forums or search for Goldbud on facebook!
WW Skirt
A1 1
