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EASY REVISED ED1noн

EASIER
EASIEST
TAILORING patl palmer
susan pletsch

i--лdf- �
�f----,�y-- �
""'"--fц,d,

�-м,еf,ь;._,__,

foshion illustrotions Ьу Priscillo F. tee

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Whenever brond nome$ ore m&ntioned, it is only to indicote fo the
consumer products we hove personolfy tested ond with whk.h wo
hove Ьееn pleo..d. There moy very well Ье other products thot ore
comporoble or even Ьetter to oid you in your $8wi ng, or thot moy Ье
develope<I ofter lne printing of this Ьооk.

А speciol thonk you lo ovr innovotive &iend, Morlo Alto, ond to our
fomilie.s who hove Ьееn suppotlive fon.s.

Copyright О 1977 Ьу Ро6 Polme, ond Suюn Plet1<h.

R.-.,;,ed edition copyright 01983 Ьу Palmer/Pletsch lnco, po,oted.
Revi,ed editюn updo,ed 1995.
Twenly<bl, p,in•ng Sp,ing 2000.

UЬ,ory о1 Cщjre,s Co10log Cord NumЬ.. ВЗ-61672

Poblisl,ed Ьу Polme,/Pletкh Publishing, Р.О. Вох 12046,

Ponlond, OR 97212-0046 U.SA

Reviиd edition des.ign & ptock,ction Ьу WiW'lef Asюcia'81, Portkind, Oregon.

Prinled Ьу The \rw;м!odюn Compony, PO<tlond, Oregon U.$.A.

А11 righls reser.-ed. No pon of lhis ЬоQ1: moy Ье щ,toduoed in ony form w;lhovl
p«mission in wrilw'lg from 1ho oulho,($t e:«:ept Ьу о reviewe, who тау quote Ьrief
poиoges in review.

ISВN Q.93527�..S

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 About the Authors
Poti Polmer ond Sщ.an Pletюh have developed QQreers PfOmoting
о fo...orile hоЬЬу, sewi ng. Тhеу have coouthored four sewing b)()�S,
e,tabli,hoo а publishing campany llюt has p,aduced dozen, of ЬооЬ
ond videos, ond troveled ocross Notth Americo teoching $8minors.
Th ey have deяgned for Vogue Poltern Company and 11,en fo, МcCall',
from 1980 to present. Poti ond Suюn designed the firsl quick blozer
paltefn ever for МcCall', in 1980. Their '8-Hour Blaz.,,- featured in
Fomity Circle, sold one million сорiы the fiГ1t yeor.
Poti ond Suson mel os educotionot representolive;s for Armo, о
shoping fobrics monufocturer. Poti hos olso been corporote home
economist fOf o.n Oregon deparrment store, os well os b uyer of sewing
nо�ом. Poti groduoted lrom
Oregon Slote University in homo
economics.
She s.eNed os notionol choirmon
of the 8usiness Section of the
Americon As.soctotion of Fomily
ond Consumer Scie�s ond wos
selected Oregon Ноте Eoonomist
ol the Уear. She has Ьееn vice­
choirmon of educotion for lhe
Americon Home Sewing ond Croh
Associotion ond served os о tnJslee
on the Oregon 4-Н foundo�on
Ьoord. Poti Polmef
Suюn hos Ьееn о home
ec:onomist with ToIOn Consumer
Educotion, where she traveled
extensivefy giving consumer ond
educok>f workshops. She groduoted
from Arizono Slate Univetsity ond
1ough1 home ec.onomics to special
educo lion stvdents. Suюn •relired'"
from lhe publis.hin9 bus.ine» �verol
yeors ogo 10 morry ond trovel with
her husЬond. She ,1ill sews for
herиlf ond her hc>me ond writes
Suson Metsch
ortic&es for nolionot pvЬlicotions.

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 ТаЫе of Contents
Toiloring ls EASYI................... • ................. 6
Whot Мokes 11 "Toilored" ...................... • •..... 7
Why leom Toiloring Techniques ....................... 8
let's Define: Eosy, Eosier, Eosiest......... ......•... • • .. 9
Think Coo,dinotes - Sew on OUТFIT .......... • • • • • ... 11
How to Моkе о 81ozer in 8 Hours! ............. • • .. ... 12
Pottem Selection .................. .. .... .... • • .. •.... 13
Choose о No-Foil fobric.............................. 16
Тhе Criticol lswe - Shopin9 Fobrics ..... , • • • • •...... .. 21
Sometimes о Greot Notioo. .. .. ..... .. ... .. . ЗЗ
leorn to Press ............... ........ ...•... .......... 35
Pre shrink! .. . .. .. .. .. . .. .... .. .. ..... ... • .. .. .. .. . .... 41
Моkе Sure lt Will fit ................. • • ......... ..... 42
CuHing ond Мorkin9 ore Reloted .. ... .... • • •. .. ..... .. 50
Toiloring Whot's ond Why's .. .... ..... . • ... .. .. ....... 53
Hond Stitches ond their Altemotives .....•.. , . , • , • ... ... 56
Eosy, Eosier, Eosiest ... Which One? ................ , ... 58
Тhе Pieces, Fronts ............ ....... ................. 60
Тhе Pieces: Bocks .............. • • ....... ..... ......... 73
Тhе Pieces: Collors ................. • • • • • .... .... ..... 81
Тhе Pieces: Sleeves ....... ... .. .. • ... .. • • .... ... ...... 85
Putting AII the Pieces Together... ....... .. • .... • .. ... .. 93
Hems ................................................ 97
Shoulder Pods ... .. ......................... ....... . .. 99
lining ... Three Мethods ............................... 101
Super Touches lor о Custom look! ..................... 108
Topstitching - Even You Con Do lt! ................... 122
Мen's Toiloring - the "Eosiest" Method ................ 124
lndex ................................................ 126
Other Books lrom Polmer/Pletsch ...................... 128

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Tailoring 1s EASYI

Con you Ьelieve it? We have the nerve to coll toilori ng EASY! And
we meon it. We begon os you did, ..Ме toilo,? Нeove ns no - that·s
too hord fOt' mel" But tailoring con Ьс os eosy os you wont il to Ье.
That's whot this Ьооk is oll oЬout.

We'w written о Ьооk fvtl of choices. You must evoluote your til'l"IO,
tolent, potience, Ьudget, ond wordroЬe plons ond then choose toiloring
methods to meet your needs. So you con Ье о snoЬ o,,d "custom" toilor
if thot is уоог chaice. But you will olso find some sneoky, speedy· нoys to
have о greot looking Ыоzег in 1/4 the time with 1/4 the l,ossl•. Using
the "Eos ies-t" methods, we con cronk one ovt in 8hour's- ondYOUcon
too!

i
Reod the entire Ьоо1с fir$tl Then ... think pos tively, y<>ur new
Ыozer is going to moke Colvin Кlcin think he needs sewing lessonsl
Decide which methods mect your tolents ond needs. Plan yoor work so
thot it will progress smoothly ond ropidly. Then smile ond pot ,-oorself
оо thc bock. lsn·t toiloring eosyl

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What Makes lt "Tailored"?
"Toiloring" is о merhod of sewing thot mokes о gormenl m0te
duroЫe thon tr'Oditionol drt:ssmo�ing. lt generolly opplies to coots,
jockets, ond Ыozel'S - those gorments thot cost more to buy Or' sew -
those gorments we must weor for severol seosons. "Toilored" с01 olso
refer to о "mon�toiIOred" fOYlion look (e,ri sp detoils, mosculine foЬrics,
mon's suit styling) whК:h con Ье found on onything from skirts to dresses
to ponts.
А Ыozer, w!,ich we define os о 1уре of jocket thot ol woys hos о
lopel, о rolled collor, ond о stroight, uncuHed sleeve, cootoins vittuolly
oll of the troditionol techniques thot sel toiloring oport from
drewnoking. Yov moy find one or more of the followi ng 1oil0ting
techniques in о toilored jockct or coot, but if you wonl 10 leom olloЬout
toilofing, mo�e о Ыozer - it hos them oll!

go,ge
fine
rolled coflor

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Why Learn Tailoring Techniques?
1. lf You leorn to toilor, otl of your sewing will improve bec:ouse you
will hov e ttied ond wcceeded with the psythologicolly most difficult
sewing project. lt's mvch lilte the novice skier who dores 10 tockle the
odvon<:ed slope ond succeeds - оое must put forth mOJ(imum eHort
ond use evety blt of prвvious troining ond knowledge. From thot point
on, skiing is о breeze!

2. You con moke your .ewin9 Hme os profitoЬle о, ро»iЫе Ьу moking

only tlю,e things you con't oПord 1о buy. Su,on ,оу, she con oПord
$15 T-shirts but refuses to ,�d $300 for the quolity Ьlozer she loves.
She multiplies the cost of the Ьlozer 'ingredients• Ьу 7 lo corne up with
the opproximote cost of о coomporoЬle reody.-o,.weor garmenL When
уоо use $40 wonh of ingredients you con produce о $280 Ыщеr - о
sovings of $240! Toiloring con sove tons of moneyl

З . You will hove the skill to prodvce clos.sic gorments to weor for rna,"Y
seosons. You will hove the odvontoge of oc:hieving perfect fit in just thc
right fobric (neither is olwoys ovoiloЫe in reody-to --weort) ond t:> creote
thot imponont wordroЬe core - the jocket.

4. Speciol toiloring techniqves con Ье used fOf' super effects in sewing

mony other gonnents. For exomple, the toping techniqve tought on
poge 54 con Ье used to prevent "goposi.s" on the V-1\eek of о doring
evening dres.s.

5. 8ecouse foshion constontly chonges, leaming clossic l:»iloring

methods will prepore уоо ro sew any new foshion look. For exomple,
Ьound buttonlюles hovo Ьееn posst lotely. Designers 1,ove replo,ed
them witl, о sponier keyhole style, Ьvt we guorontee Ьound Ьvt·onlюles
will retum!

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Let's Oefine: Easy, Easier, Easiest
Custom - Totally Hand SШched
• Hond toiIOr bosle hoir convos interfocing to front
• Hond pod sritch /opels
• Undertining is optionol
• Best q1,olity fobrics or4! s-uggested cfue to time invested
Advontoges: Subl/e, duroЫe shope with oll lobrics.
Oisadvantoges: Very slow, Нолd stitches <:on show on smooth,
lightweight fobrics.

Easy - Machine Replaces Some Hand Stitchlng

• Мust use on vnderfining
• 1'Jюchine stitch hoir ca,,vos to underlining
• Hond or glue Ьoste underlining to foshIOn foЬ,ic
• Hond pod stitch lopels
Advantages: Foster than custom, duroЫe - greot for
children's coats; con use о budget h:Jir convos
Disadvantoges: Unde,lining plus interfocing moy Ье 100 bulky or
firm for some fobrics

Easier - Fuse to Underlining

• Must use оп unde:rlining
• Fuse interfocing to undcrlining
• Ho,,d or glue Ьoste underlining to foshion fobrk
Advontoges: Speedy, yet gives extro body; о woy to use
fusiЫes on any fobric without creoting ridges on
ovtside or olrering fobrtC surfoce - Greot for
seersucScerJ
Disodvontages: Underlining plus interfocing moy 00 too Щllky for
some foЬrics.

Easiest (Тhе"8-Hour Blazer") - Fuse to Fabric

• Fuse о fusiЫe interfocing directly to foshion fobric
• No underfining
• No moc.hi,,e or hond pod stitches
Advontoges: SPEED! Adds body ond wrinkle-resistonce.
FvsiЬles ore ovoiloЫe in mony weights.
Disodvantoges: Мust stock о voriety of fvsiЫes or home to moke
test somples; some fusiЫes odhere to some
loЬrics Ьенеr thon others.

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Think Coordinates
Sew ап OUTFIT
Spend more time Ьut get Ьеttег \'Olue from your time spent -doo't
just malce о joc:ket or coot - moke on outfit!

S.,ve Time
1. Маkе а two•piece outfit -Thot is, moke о grey Ыozer ond grey
skirt or о comel coot ond ponts. There is super clossic foshion in о
monochromotic ensemЫe ond definitely extro wordroЬe mileoge.
2. Go on& step further - moke о Ыozer, vest, skirt ond ponls out of
the some fobric. This four port wordrobe con yield mony mor'e
combinotioos.
3 . Go even further - moke two four•ptece outfits oul о: о yeor­
round foЬric like о stretch waven polyester in two compotible colors
(such os comel ond novy), ond you con interchonge oll lhe ports. The
two ootfits then yield over 25 comЬinotioos. Poti olwoys hos these two
colors in her wordroЬe ond builds oll other gorments oround them.

NОТЕ: When you moke о two, lhree or fou,-pieco outfit, moke lhe
"other pieces" (vest or skirt or ponts} first to Ьесоmе fomilior with
the fmhioo foЬric - how it preues, how it sews.

S.,ve Моnеу
1. On fobnc -Ьу buy;ng enough fobric for о З.рiесе outfit, you con
often moke the fourth piece for free Ьecou'S4t of imp,oved cutling
odvontoges.
2. On other dothes - fewer Ыouses, shins ond sweote,s will
compliinent more outfits.
3. On occessones -when you hove oll those compotiЫe pieces you
con weor the some �. hondЬog, scorves ond jewelry. (Тhis olso
mвons you sove time in shopping for your occessories).

NОТЕ: Corry color swotche. wilh you! 8uy one of lhoso plostic
occordion.fokf wollet photo holdel'S for swotches ond fo.,.orite
pottem yordoge requ irements. Look ot it every time you m::ike о
foЬric or occe.sory P'J(Chose ond slop your honds if it doest1't fit
into the "grond scheme of things". See illustrotion on prt.viovs
poge.

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How to Make а Blazer in 8 Hoursl
Poti is о super speedy seomS1ress who con moke о Ьlozer in 8 hours
- but Suson (wno usuolly sews ot о snoil's росе) con now moke thot 8
hour Ьlozer too. Here ore some secrets:

1. Select о Ьosic pa"ern ond plon to moke it severol limes in

different fobrks - eoch time yov tepeot о pottern it 90& together
foster ond more eosity.

2. Look fo.- these po!tern features that are fm�

• potch pockets insleod of welt
• оо Ьосk or sleeve vent (or stitch existing ones closed)
• lining (foster thon finishing scoms in on vnlined gom'ent)
• pottem must include а lining pottem
• "Easy" potterns con Ье de<:eptive. They cloim to 00 l!Юsy
bec:ouse there ore fewer pottern pieces which meons fewer
seoms, but ... more dorts. We feel thot $ewing ond preмing
dorts is not neceuarily fa,terond if you hove fitting proЫems,
the more seoms you hove to work with the eosier tc fit.

З. Use no-fait easy-lo-tailor fabrics (see poge 16 for detoils). Look

fo.- these in order of speed,
• textured douЫe knit (fostest)
• medium weight textured wools or wool Ыends (like tweed)
• linen and line,n-like fobrics

Ве sure 10 avoid (for on 8-hour Ыozer!),

• vetvets {horder 10 sew ond toke f0tever lo press)
• tightly woven permooent press foЬrics {tend to puckerond ore
hord to eose)
• ploids of ony type (look greot Ьut toke lo nger to cut ""� motch)

4. Use fastest methods:

• fvsiЫe interfocing lvsed directly to faЬri<: (see poge 70)
• mochine Ьuttonholes (see poge 108)
• quick lining (see poge 103)

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2. Buy the right pottern size (see poge 42).

3. Оюоsе on ottroctive icx:ket length.

lf 1he ponts or sl<ir1 fit well, iocket length is not os crucial. А,, о
generol rule, iockets should Ье long enough 10 hide the derriere
becouse if о jocl<et stops ot the fullest por1 of the hip, it will errphosize
hip width. Overoll proportion must olso Ье considered - о short person
moy look Ьener in о shor1er jocket. Вefore moking о jocket, pin the
potlem pieces together ond try on with the finished ponls or sl<i�. А full
le ngth mirmr will give you your onswel"$.

Short jockcts - Ьеs1 with skirts. tf wom with ponts,

ponts mU$1 fit well ond should Ье the юmе ,olor.
АЬо,,е lullest part ol hip - ОК lor 11,;n Щs ооо shor1
people.
Jusl below fvllest port of hip - о "c�omiю length"
wЬen fashion decrees "YIOn pc:Jcets··. tf pd(et is to Ье
WOl1'I with Ьoth ponts ond skirts, rhis is Ьest length.

Well Ьelow fullest port of hip - hides hips �' ond is

sofe-s-1 tength for overoge to toll people.

Find о f1ottering leng th Ьefore уоо i,,vest in о pottem Ьу snoop

shopping - try on different lenglhs in reody-to-weor jockets wilh both
,kir1s ond ponls. When you lind the lengths you like best, toke your
trusty purse tope meosure out ond meosure the finished Ьасk length!
Compore to the "linished Ьосk length" os pnnted on the pottern
envelope.

4. Before you Ь..у the pottem - check the pottern envelope. lf the
pottem does not hCJve о lining pottem inc.luded, c.onsider thoosi ng
onother. lt is horder to finish off oll those seoms so thot the y look prelty
thon to line о joc.ket. Cutting yovr own lining is pos.siЬle, but time•
consuming {see poge 31).

5. Chonges mode in the roll line olfect the gorge line ond ore diffi<:ull
to deol with - selec-t о pottern with о lopel, roll line, ond numЬer of
Ьuttons thot you like. Life is too shor1 to chonge о 3 button Ыо::еr into о
2 bulton Ыozerl

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Pattern Selection
1. Sclect о pottem with good lines for you. Some h;nts,

То moko you look shorter То make you look taller

оОО wider ond more slender

•о

••
00

double Ь.eosted, w.:le lope�, single Ьreosted. medium width

squore Ьottom lopels, rounded Ьottom o'>d dccp
"V" lopel (cne о, 1WO Ь.,1оn
jocket}

•
•
•

shon, Ьоху style

Ь)9 jod(et with princes.s юoming

lf you're oot sure oЬovt the Ьest lines for уоо, t,y Of\ reody-to•weor
or onolyz e tt1e li1"1es of your fovorite clothe-s.
RememЬer, olmost ony sty1e or lcngth jocket will odd heigh· ond Ье
slenderizing if the jocket о,'Ю ponts or $1,tirt ore in the some color foЬ.-ic.
NOTf: ALWAYS look ot the 1;� drow;ngs on the pottcrn о, n the
potten1 book os they will givc you the true shope of the fo$hion.

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Choose а No-Fail Fabric

The No-Foil FoЬric Chort wos desigмd to sl,ow fost sewoblity ot о

glonce. tf уоо wont on "8 Hour Blozer," Ье sure to choose о foЬric from
thot column. These will fuse, sew ond press quickly with professionol
results. Тhose in the "Not As Fos-t Fobrics" column require о Ьit more
skill ond often another toiloring method, but con still Ье sewn
successfully.

А key to fost toiJoring with fus.iЫes is choosing о medium weight

fobric with surfoce texture or design. А fobr-ic with lumps ог bumps
(tweed), luzz Qlonnel), texture (linen) or design (herringЬooe) will
comoufloge yoor interfocing ond inner constn.,ction. Just like printed
cotton hid mistokes on yovr 7th grode slcirt, foЬria with surfoce interest
will hide Ыozer errors!

tf о fobnc do..,,t eose well, it will Ье horder to hondle. You will Ье

more likely to get puckers in your set-in slecve, in seorns, � ot t11e lopel
notch. Tightly woven fobrics, JЖmOnent press fobrics, ond foЬrics thot
contoin о high percentogc of non-obsorЬent fiЬer (nylon, polyester)
don't eose well. д fobric like "TriggerФ'· which hos oll th,ee of these
chorocteristia will Ье difficult to toilor.

No-Fail Fabric Chart

8-Hour Blazer Fobrics' Not As Fas1 Fabrics
Wool douЫe knil lightweight cottons ond silkies
Wool tweed ond wool flonnol Corduroy
linen Velvet
Suit.weight silk Vetveteen
Wool Ыends Seersucket
liner,.like fobrics Heovy cooting
Ultrosuede• brond fobrics Sportsweor fobric
Sketch woven polyester
Wool gaЬordine

•ttsted in order of sewing eose - eosiesl ot Юр.

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Sewing and ShapingTips for
Tailoring Fabrics
Corduroy - Some ore 100% cotton ond some ore blended wirh poly•
esler. AJI corduroys seem to shrink quite о Ыt, so we recommend
i
mochine wosh ng ond drying to preshrink if уоо plon to use о fvsible
interfocing, even if you plon to drydeon rhe finished gorment.
GeneroHy, fusing resufts ore Ьetier on norrow lo medium W"Ole cor·
dutoys. We ""' Petfedfu"' L;gh1 lpoge 25) on lhe ja<:kel 'ront ond
undercollor if we plon to wos.h the finished jocket. lf we plon to drycleon
it, we like Perfectfuse Toilor, os it odds soft Ьоdу. Perfeclfuse Light is oll
potyester ond doesn't need to Ье preshrunk. However, Perfectfvse Toilo,
hos о h;gh ,ayon content ond should Ье p,..h,unk. See po<koge fo,
preshrinking instructions.

Неоvу cootings - You moy u.se the eosiesl method, Ьut test inIOtfoci ngs
to find one that odheres Ьest 1о fuzzy w,loces. Due lo the bui ol cool•
ings, cusюm method moy Ье the eosiesl ond leost Ьulky. Trim encJos.ed
seoms very close to slitching line ond �el to eliminote Ьvlk.

t.ightweig.ht ootton$ ond silkies. - Мost of those ore tigh�y woven, which
con meon puckered seams. Use "toul sewing" 10 eliminole pud:ers. Use
о 70/10 Un;ve,so\ needle 01 о Mic,ofiЬe, needle. You moy wont to �у
Perfec'lfuse Sheei . Fusible knit inlerfocing$ оlю work we11, os do those
designed for $heors. Wosh ond dry your test юmple 10 chec:k for puckets.

Linen - Suitweight 1()()% linen is on,e of our fovorite B•Hout 61ozer fоЬ.
rics. 11 is olmost os eosy to loilor os wool tweed. An odded plus: Ns­
ing minimized wrinkling. Use о lightweight fus iЬle on the upper c:ollot
ond front focing ond о medium wei9h1 on under collor ond fro,t. Atwoys
line or underline skir1 ond pont coordinotes to control wrinkli ng.

Linen·like foЬrics - The.se cOl"l\e in oll weighl$ from the heov. -et royon/
polyв$ter blends to lightwei-ghts. The heovier, loosety woven fobrics ore
for eosior to toiIOr thon the lighter weight, tightfy woven, permonent
pre.ss Ьlends. Atl method.s ore suitoЬle, bul the 8-Нour BIOzer techniques
ore perfec.1 for the heovier weights. Undertining is о woy to odd Ьоdу
to lightweight l;nen-like lob,ics.

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Seersucker - lf you wonl 1о us.e а fu,iЫe, U$0 the "Eosier"' melhod
ond fuю lo lhe underlining. Fusing directly to seersucker Aottens the
puckers you jusJ poid lor!
Spor1sweor fobrics - These fobric.s ore tightty woven, lightweight
ond 9enerolly hove о �l'monent pres.s fini,h. Even thovgh they ote
eosy 1о core for, they ore dtrficull 1О toilor ond ote not recommerded
lor о firsJ projecl.
Stretch woven polyes1er - Тhese . foЬrics ore о good investmen· fot
yeor,round dres.sing ond olwoys look crisp ond fresh, Arty metnod con
Ье us.ed. lf you fvse 1о th8 faЬric, test firsl. Woven or knil fusiЫes moy
leove о smoother ,urfoce.
Suit-weight silk - Any Юiloring method i, suitoЫe for this fobr«:.
Wюny will lose Ьоdу ofter cleoning, ю uи slightly heovier weight inler•
focings 10 componюte. FusiЬles will odd sюЬility ond wrinkfe resis•
tonce. Use о lightweight fusiЫe on upper collor ond facings ond а
heovy weight on front ond under collor. Underlining w;II olso odd Ьоdу
ond stobllily. However, todoy we щuolly just line.
Textured or printed conon (denim, chino, poplin, modros) - lf ,tiff
ond �ghtly wo,,en, they will Ье hord to toilo, Ьeoouse they will re,i,t
eosing. Weh or knit fusiЫes may leove о smoother surfoce on these
foЬrics. Prinb hide sewing ond pressing proЬlems.
Ultrosuede• brond fobric - Definitely on 8-Hour 8&ozer fobric, Ьut
requires speciol sewing techniques. (See Sewing Ultrosuede• Brand
Products Ьу Ро� Polmer ond Suson Pletкh, poge 128.)
Velvet - Vefvets hove о deeper, mOfe erect pile lnon vetvele-en$. True
velvets ore moke of toyoti or royon/ocetatc while velveteen.s ore mode
of cohon. The pile on ve-lvet is frogile ond heol s,en�tive. fusing Aolens
lhe pile ond leoves iron imprinb. Any of the other toiloring met�,ods
would Ье Ьенеr . We prefer simple, coll orles.s jockeb for velvet Uiing
modi�ed custom or undo�ined ,hoping methods.
Volvotoon - Velveteen hos о le$S dense, le$S erect pile thon velvet. lf
you fus.e to it, you will Яо11еn the pile ond detroct ft<>m its Ьeouty. Any
of the other toiloring methods worlt well. Some lightweight vefveteens
need to Ье underlined for mOfe Ьоdу.

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 WoshoЫe V•lvet - This fobric is mode on о velvet system giving it о
deep, thick pile, but it is о Ьlend of 65% conon ond 35% royon, -noking
it more heot toleronl. We hove successfully fusecf Ю it. lt wears Ьetter
thon velvet - you won't get shiny elЬows or sюt os with true vetvet.
Тhere ore olso 100% cotton velvets thot hove the some virtue.s, but
hove le.$S shee n. UW! fusiЬles on the aossgroin. Preshrink woven ond
knil fusiЬles. Not oll fusiЬles odhere well os 1hese fobrics hove soil
reteose or silicone finis00$ lhat resist some fvsing ogenrs, so moke о
test somple. Cuslom ond mocНfied custom methods work we!I olso.
Amoz;ngly, Ьolh fobric:.s ore reolly mocblne woslюblel
Wool Ыends - Tho$& fobrics ore less expen.sive ond often о linle
loose, in weove orкf lighter in weight thon 100% wooh. Polyes:er ond
nylon ore the common Ыending fiЬers. lf Ыends ore ot leost 50% wool
they will still eose soli$foctorify ond Ь& eosy to sew fo, о cosk:utting
8-Hour Blozer. Wool Ыends ore greol for children's cJothing os mony
ore mochine woshoЫe. lf fabric needs more body, use о toiloring
method wHh on underlining.
Wool douЫo knit - These used 1о Ь. heovy 18 oz. fobric,. Todoy
th ey ore lighter, Ьut still ОО$У to sew.
Wool Ronntl - lf you use о Ronnel, use о good one - о medium to
heovy weight 100% wool is the eosiest lo toilor. Wool Rannel thot is
nol too tigh�y woven is lruly on 8-Hour Bloz.er fobric. The custom
method is оlю suitoЬle.
W ool gobordine - Wool goЬordine is mode from long wool �Ьers
tho'I ore highly twisted. lt is tighrly woven, hos о smooth wrfoce, ond is
availaЫe in medium ond lightweighls. Becouse of ifs smoolh surfoce,
goЬordine shows press marks e-osily ond requires coreful pressi ng fo
ovoid on oveiworited oppeoronce. lt is possible lo use fusiЫes with
wool goЬordine, but olwoys do о tesl somple to moke sure а ridge
cloesn't show on the right side, or choose о pottern with о front don or
norrow hont ponel ond comouRoge interfoc;ng edge Ьу fusing 1О dort
or seom, Avoid using о fusiЬle on the bock. Weh fusiЬles leove о
smoother surfoce on these fobrics, Arry ЮilOfing method is suitoЫe.
Wool tweed - The 8ЕSТ, we meon ТНЕ SEST 8-Нour Sloze< lobric
you coukl ever usel 11 eoses well ю your sleeves will set in perfectfy,
ond the lexturo hides inside construdion. Some fusible_s won't odhere
well 10 lumpy surfoces, so olwoys tesl fusiЫes on о somple 10 see
which is Ьeit, Custom method is olso suitoЬle.

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 о о

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The Critical lssue - Shaping Fabrics
The sho pe in о toilored gormen1 is reolly imponont. We IJSe mvch
more subtle shoping ond eosier methods thon in yeor, post, Ьut the
need for supporl for your foshion foЬric hosn' t chonged.
RememЬe.r thot toilol'ing is diff@rent:
1. Toilored gomients receive greoter stroin dve to more ftequent
weor.
2. When in doubt - use о shoping fobric. Your clotning will look
Ьettel' ond weor longer. No motter whot you choose, the ga-ment will
loolc Ьetter ond weor longer thon if you used nothing,
Herc оге the loyers os they relote to tailorin9 in order of
opplicotion:
Undertining - Provides shooe, Ьоdу
ond $uppo,t to lorge oteos of о
gorment; for exomple, lhe Ьоdу о1 о
coot would Ье undмlined, the collor
inlttfoced. М undetlining ccn оlю
Ьо о "choo1 loy,,r" 1О hold m«king,.
mo\c hcms invi1iЬlo, о plooc Ю lock
interfoc:ing• ond focing1. fl i1 nclucfed
in scoms with the foshion foЬric.
lnterfocing -А generolfy fi,m foЬric
thot is used to ptovide s.hope, Ьоdу
on<I suppott in srnoll oreos (edge1 ond
detoilsl in о gorment,

lntertining -А lofty loyer о= fobric

stit<:мd insidt о gormont 10 p-ovide
oddod wo,m,t,.

Lining - fobric cut from юporote

po-ttom pieces, ossembled, oncl tnen
stitched inside the gormenl oocover the
inside constrvction ond to otlow the
gciment to slide on ond off eosity,

Underliniпg
Choos,, underlining fobnc Ьу the omount of Ьоdу needed to creotc
the look you won1 from yoor foshion fobric. As foshioo chonges from
�ped to softer silhovetres � moystill wont to use on underfining - it
.
w,\I moke l,ght colored foЬric opoque, ond w;II ollow you to use speed
techniques (like fusing) on foЬtia thot otherwise would not oc<epl them.

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How to Underline:
80$ting on underlining in place is tedious ond not olwoys oc:curote.
There is too much chonce for the underlining to slip while sewins. What
is the onswer'? 50В0 GLUEI SоЬо is о liquid fobric glue 1h,t dries
foirly cleor ond soft. l t con Ье found in most sewing ond notion
deportments.
Underlining is simple - if you glue with SоЬо!
1. Ploc e your fobric on о Ао1 podded pressing surfoce. Steom press oll
the wrinkles out.
2. Ploce your underlining on top ond steom press the two together.
This removes wrinkles ond ony ро»iЫе shrinkoge. Uh undertinl19 ond
dot SоЬо о, similor fobric glue on foshion foЬ,ic dose 10 the edge in
seam allowoncos. Pot the two loyers together. Allow 5 minvte.s to dry.

3. for more u1�er ,Jining informotion, including the "Glue ond Fold"
techniqve, see Мother Pletsch's Poinless Sewing, Ьу Poti Polmer ond
Svson Pletsch.

lnterfacing
Where to lnterlace
Edges - (ormhole, ne<k, front,
hem) Ьecovse edges ore
subjкt to excessive weor ond
interfocings provide strength,
Ьоdу, ond stretch-preventioo in
these oreos.
Details - (collor, cuff. pocket,
Ьond) Ьe<ouse the foshion
detoils of о gorment should Ье
со о positive foshion stotement -
о firmly shoped collor, о
crisply toilored Ьelt, ond
pockets tho1 won·t droop.

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Ноw 1о Choose а S�khaЫe lnlerfacing:
Моkе о sondwich of your inlerfocing ploced Ьelween lw� layers of
the foshion foЬric - tnis simulote> tne gorment loyers Ьest. Fмl them.
1. Th.e interfocing should compliment foЬrk:
the foshion fobric, not overpower it.
2. Try droping the lwO loyers to resem­
Ыe tne ploce where tney will Ье
used. For exomple, fold them
oround your wrist to re.semble о cuff.
fobnc
З. The lwO fobrics should Ье cor...compotiЬle.

How 1о Chaose а FusiЫe lnlerfacing

То decide exoctfy the right fusiЫe interfocing for your fobri-c, you
ihould moke о te5f юmple, since fusiЫes chonge in feel ofter fusing.
Oooo ps-con't very well toke the iron 10 the fobric slo,e to test, con

ш□
you? So bring the fobric store fюme - it's а good idea lo bvy three
yords of severol types. (You'/1 юvе time on future sewing 100.) After cut·
ting out your Ыozer, fuse о lesl somplo of sevetol different interfocings
to scrops of fobric.

Check your tesl somple fo,:

• Outside oppeoronce - is there ony
color chonge or о ridge left from the
cut edge of inlerfocing?
• Feel - do tne interfocing ond foshion fobric feel good tog«her?
• Washobllity - lou the test somple into the wosher/dryer 1О check
tne ofier oppearonce if you plon 1о wosh the gorment.

Ноw 1о Fuse
Reod ond follow the manufocturer's instructions firsl. lf unovoi�
оЫе, then use these generol instruc­
tions:
1. Preheot iron, set on "'WOOL. •
Use steom,
2. Steom preu foshion fobric to
remove ony wrinkles ond to
pre-shrink.
З. Ploce ponern on the foЬric to Ье
sure the fobric i.s not disaort&d.
4. Ploce your p,eshrunk inle<focing
jpg. 41) resin side down on fobric.
5. tf you ore not using о serge of .steom type of iron, u.se о domp
pre.ss ctoth lo ensure enough moisture for on even fuse.

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6. While using two-honded pre,sure, h,,e for five ,econd,. Slide the
iron о linle ond fu$& five seconds more... slide.• fvse..etc. Ве щr& 10
fu,e fo, the full counl о, the fu,iЬle will Ье under fu..d ond will
eventvolly seporote from the fobric.
7. Ве polientl Alway, ollow fu,ed pieces to cool Ьefore moving lhem.

NOTE: Use о minimum of ten .second to fvse onfy foЬtic. Thc

heoviet" the fobfic, the more seconds you should use. Suson uses the
МISStSSIPPI trick, Count •0ne, Мi"issippi,• •тwо Мississippi," elc.
You wi11 then Ье wre to counl 1$n h,,11 seconds.

Our Favorite Tailoring Shaping Fabrics

STIТCHABLfS
Poly/collon - excellenl for the Ьосk ,toy in о jocket. The line on fusiЬle,
will often show through to 100 right side oher юverol cleonings.
Hoir co.nva.s - When cus.tom loiloring, this is о must. The mOt'e v.ool, the
more Wfinkle resistonce you'II gel; the more goot hoir, the mo,e slюpe relen­
tion. В Block of Los Angeles hos oll wool ond 9001 hoir inlerfocings.
Silk orgonza - о po,le,ct underiining for drycleonoЫe faЬrics needing
mete Ьоdу or f0t U$& with the eosy method of toiIOring. 11 is оlю used os
i
the •window'" fcк; ng in Poti's foVOlikt Ьound buttonhole.
Nonwovens - light• to medium weigh1 nonwovens (not 011-bios) cre uюd
to stobllize the Ьосk of welt pockels ond for stitching occurocy Ьecouse you
con drow stitching lin-es on them. When used, even where orIOther interfoc­
ing, is u,ed, you will get drocp-free pockets. (See poge 115.)
Polyester or rayon linings - ,uch os AmЬionce" (royoo) ond Hong
loose• (onf1-stolic polye ster), Ьoth Ьу logonte.x, ore nice, reoюnoЫ·t p,iced
linings. Use Ыovse fobriC$ in prints or supple crepes ol'IO foil1es fo, desigr)­
er linings.
Sleeve head fobrk - u,ed to moke ,leeve cops mote rounded ond pvck­
er fтее. Use о polye $1er fleece in the crosswise direction or о wovtn royon
ond polyester tie interfcк:ing on the blos.

FUSIBLES
fusiЫe knits - wO(k nkely os on in1erfocing or underlining for lig'llweight
foЬrics.

Weft-insertion interfocings - wo,k on neorfy oll fobric,. Тму don'1

ЬuЬЫе on lightw&ights. Preshrink to remove the 1 % shrinkogo in t+ose wilh
о rayon content.

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Perfectfuse·Weft lnterfacings
We've used fvsiЬle> since the '60> ond out о1 frustrotion developed
our own line of four weft interfocings in the yeor 2000. They ore wider
width, high performing wefts, ond eoch is distinclfy differenl so you con
tel1 them oporl ot home. We use three of them in most of our toilOfing,
plus о sew,in for the Ьосk. fOf more informotion, see poge 128.

0n wool crepe wood goЬordine, silk suiting, wool twe«I

or wool flonne(;

�.,.
Pt.rf«tfuse
8АСК Мediurn or light

/ J,... \
Perfectfus.e foilo,
P&rf6CIFu$8 Мedium
Perfectfuse P0tfduи or Perfectfu!e Light
Ught Toilo,
NOTE: No ne6cl to fu.se side ponel, facing or upper c:ollor on heovie· foЬ,ia.

0n silk crepe de chine, rayon, sondwashed faЬrics

'°"""
sew-in

'°""" Perfecifus.e
О(

�/ Ugl;
FACING
fRONT / COIW \
q�
U№ft C01.W:

sюе
Petfec:lfuse light

Pe,feclfus<> Perfeclfuse Perfeclfus.e

Ught Ught Perfedfus.e l,gh1
Lighl

NOTE: With nopped fobrics or see.rst.Кkers, fuse to silk orgonzo or

cotton Ьotiste, or use о sew-in interfocing.

Test! Test! Тest!

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Answers to Common Questions AЬout FusiЫes
Ноw do I k_eep Ьuttonholes lrom streh:hing when I use о fvsЫe with
crossw1se grve? Stobllizo 1М buttonhole oreo with о piece of orgondy, orgo,,.,
zo О1' Shetr n<>streKh inleffcкing, Or, rv� о rectonglo of fightweighl МiЫе w;th
1he saoble dir6dion in the directюn of the Ьuttonhole.
Why would I want 1о use more thon one type о1 intenocing in the
some iocket? ComЬiootions of inlerfocings prcwide verюtility. Your foЬtic
moy fvnction Ье,а with о medium weight lwible in the front ond undet coltor, о
lighter weight fusiЫe on the pocket, hems, uppe, collor oncl focing, oid о stitch­
oЫe interfocing in the Ьосk - onother reoюn to hove о home "'i:nterfocing
stofe.•
Does fu.ing give the some gaod re,uh, as hond stilches in cuslom
tai&onng? Yosl ln custom tQilo,ing, lopots ond colkнs ore rolled into shope
while stikhing to moke them permonenl. With fusiЫes, they oro fusod flot ltien
reheoted into lfie rolled st-юpe wilh heol ond stoom. Wnon lhey «ю1 in that
rolled positic>n, the shope i.$ permQnent. Тhе fvsing ogent is thermoplostic -
meoning it con Ье heot-set inlo о permanenl shope.
Do I need 1о preshrink inlenocing s? See poge 41 fo, de1oa,. Wt feel 1h01
Pfeshrinking is on •oll or tм>th1ng· motter - preshrink e-verything, or preshrink
nothing ond hope ol pieces shrink ot the юте role. Preshrinking one piece Ьu1
not dhers meons in.stont incompotiЪility.
lnterfocing monufochнers olteody pvl their product lhrough stricl shrinking
proc.osJO.s, ond hove orrived ot о maximum shrinkoge percentoge of no rnot•
lhon 1%, which is о very $IТIOII omovnt, ю they feel your interfocing sllould pe,r·
fofm юtidoctorily. We f&el thot yovr interlocing shouSd hove о 0% ,hrinkoge,
whk:h oonnot physioolly Ье done Ьу о monufocturer. lf YOU proЯlrirk о pioce
of intetfocing in YOUR humidity, AFТER it ho.$ Ьееn wl ftom the Ьold ond
ol1owed to relox, us.ing our rec::ommended preshrinking metnods, lhen you hove
done whot would Ье impossiЫe for the monufocturer to do.
Why do I get ЬuЬЫеs with fvsing? Jмre ore two diПerent 1уре> о1 ЬuЬ­
Ыеs lhot con occur. ВuЬbles in your foshion foЬ,ic indicole thot your fv.siЫe hos
shrunk more thon yovr foshion foЬric. &ubbles on lhe in1erf-ocin,g $idв indic:ote
tЬе oppo5ite - your foshion foЬc-ic 5hrunk mote.
То юlve lne p<oblem, rememЬer оо, ·oll or nolt1ir,g '" ph11oюphy. When you
pre5hrink оО piece5, you 01е o�wring yourмttf thot oll it'Qredients: wil fuse wi�
OU1 ЬuЬЫеs ond wo.s.h « dry ckюn wirhout 5hrinking. lf you prмhriri nolhing,
'f04J hove k> trщl lnot oll ingredient:5 indeed wit1 $hrinlt 01 IМ moxirrvm ollow­
oЫ. rote (1 '/,%) fo, о p,oducl ю Ь. colled 'pre,hn,nk."

Вut if I p,eshrink my fvsiЫe in hot water, wan't � fu.e 1о il>elf?

fщibles ore octivoted Ьу l&mpet'Olures of 300° ond up. Hot top woter is never
hot enough to юftcn thc fuslЫe rcsin, Even the clolhes dryet i5 not hol enough
to locnen well-l\JМIO interfocing in о f;nished gorment.

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Whot causes thase ugly 'polka dats' in lused oreos an tne nght side
о111,е foЬric 11,at oppeor alrer laundering? "Slrike lh,ough' i, a,u,ed
Ьу using lhe wrong м.ible on lhe foЬtk ond hoppens rno,e wilh $heer lo light,
woight fcЬ,ics ltюn wil'h toik>ring weights. Some fu$1Ыe dots wil simply Ь. 100
lhick for У""' foЬnc ond will с,еер lhrough in loundering 1О cau,e lhot ,pedled
eRed. Choo1ing о dil!erent type of lusiЫe ю/Уе, 1М p,oblem.

Cut the Best lnterfacing Shape

lf your poltern dоы not indude interfoc1ng po·tt&rn pieces,, °! 1 lhey
ore nol similor in shope to the.ю Ьelow, c ut your own pottcrn p,ec:es.
Ftont. You will hove the Ьes.t shoping, Ьe-s:t weor, ond leost wr nkling
i

when the intetfoc.ing covers the bu5-�ine ond extends to the ormhcle
edge. Wilh todoy's soh weft fusible.s, wc fus.e to the entire front. U$e
your front portern piece.

Front S61thoble Front: Fusible

(hoir t0rwosl

NOTE:
Мork
dorts,
2 ¼' � neckliЩt
,, seom ond
,,,,:, pcxk°"
•• oher
.'''
'' fvsing

Восk: S61thoble Side Ponel: Slil<:hoble or Fu,ible

(You wi11 get leu wrinkJing 1НЮеf 1he orm ff it is
ln..iaced lt ;, ""' -.ю,у � you fvsed 1О lhe
1 e,n,,re piece,)
1 ц·
•'
---•,1-cultin g 2¼"
, 1,ne NOTE:
' WE prelo<
,60:hоЫе
intetkкil'lg
00 lhe
Ьос:k.

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lnterlining
An interlining is the kryer tho'I odds extro wormth to о coot or jocket.
These fobrics should odd wormth but not weight, so look for о
lightweight but lofly foЬric. Some suggesHons:
1 . А loosely woven wool - d,y cleon only.
2. Pellon Polyester Fleeco or Thennolom - woshoЫe ncnwoven
Rooce.
З. Outing Aonnel - а woshoble cotton or conon/polye$ler/Ron­
nel (Ье sure to preshrinkl).
4. Armo-Rite - lofly wovon woshoble polyester/royon foЬric like
lombs wool.
5. Polyester needlepunc.h.
Some lining foЬrics ore sell-inte�ined:
1. Pr&quilted lobrics
2. Millium - on insuloted lining
З. Fleece-Ьocked lining.
The eosiest woy to interline is to stitch the interlining to the lining -
in other words, to underline the lining! Since the interlining occupies
some of the inside eose, it is usuolly pkiced in the Ьоdу of the tJOrment
Ьvt not in the sleeve:s.
То interfine:
1. Cut intertining from lining poltern pieces, omilfi ng Ьссk pleot
ond hem.
2. Tempororily Ьо$tе cenler Ьосk pleot in li11ing closed. Pin
correspond ing lining/interfini ng pieces together ond modiine
Ьoste oll edges �.. from edge.
З. Auemble li1,in9 os ранет suggests.
4. Trim Ьvlky inlerlining close 10 stitching line.
5. Stitch lining into gormenf os directed on poge 101.

inтertining lrimmed
to hen1 foldlinc

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Lining
The finishing touch - lhe lining loye< - con Ьео, gorgecus or
functionol os you want it to Ье. А fining should cover the inside con•
struclion, so on opoque foЬric is importont; о sfick fobric mokes putting
on ond toking off the 90,ment eosier; о lining fobric should Ье o.s lon9�
weoring о, lhe foshion fobrk (relining о jocket or cool ;, NOT FUN!I
See poge 101 for lining method,.

For functionol purposes, we like po�ыter linin9$ - they wear for,

ever, ore eosy 8о hondle, ond mointoin their ,hope well. Use о poJyester
foille or crepe for luxury look, or о Ыоu,е weighl fobric.

For summer comforl we often choose rayon, ocetote, or

royon/otetole Ьlends. These fobrics ore not quite os duroЫe or os
wo,hoЫe. bur they hove lhe odvontoge of Ьeing mode о1 fiЬer, 1h01
breothe. These often ore produced with о smoll woven desisn or
imprinted with о designer'.s logo. How oЬout о Bill Bloss jocket wilh
Bill's own logo on lhe liningl

But for fun - forget oЬout trying to mok:h that foshion fobric ond
find о contros-ting lining thot wi11 odd pz:oul Prinls ore super (moke
motching ihirt or soft dre.ss for on elegonl costumej. lf weoring о print
linecl jocket over о different prinl dreis oHend.s you, look for sona& of
lhe ,moll print,s lhot reolly Ыend well with onylhing. Stripes, do,s, checks,
ond smoll two-color prinrs ore very verюlile. Even in COП$ervotjve
men$weor, linings ore often Ьoid ond gorgeous - we sow о Ыосk
goЬordine Pierre Cordin Ьusiness $Uil wilh о s.moshing RfD PLAID liningl

NОТЕ: Suson ho, о Ьeoutiful ,ilk scorf that ,he plon, 1о recycle
$0Qn into о jocket lining. The кorf is lorge enough 10 liм the
jocket Ьоdу ond ,he will find о coordino�ng ,olid lobric 1о, lhe
sleeve.$.

29
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Cutting а Lining With а Pattern
Linings in coots ond jockets need о pleot for wiggle room ond to
keep the sleeves from teoring out with stress. lf your pottern does not
lюve о pleot, foll ow the method Ьelow,

1. Ploce lining Ьосk pottern оо 2. Stitch down 1 ½" to onchor

fold, slonting pottem so 1" is pleot ot neclcline.
odded ot neckline topering to
nothing ot Ьottom. Cut.

1 1/2"

lf you ore using the Quick Lining method (see poge 103) wt the
underonп of the Ьodice ond sleeve ¼" higher to ollow lining to go up
ond over the sleeve underarm seom.

Вооk Front Sleeve

\

See poge 106 fOf' more on cutting о lining for о vcnted iocket.

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Cutting а Lining Without а Pattern
When your pottern hos no lini ng
ponem pieces, Ьut your foЬric neeck о
lining, cut one following thes<!
instructions.
front - Ploce focing pottern piece
on jocket pottem piece, mork facing focing
edge witl, dotted line. Мeosure 1 ¼"
fтom edge of focing as shown, for
cutting line for lining.
8ack - u,e Ьос:1< pottem piece.
A!low о pleot as on poge 30.
Eliminote bock focing from top of
lining using some method cis olюve for
eliminating front focing. '-,-'
1 ¼'" cv-ting line
Steeve - Cu1 some as gorment
sleeve eliminoting vent. fa lining

Easy Seam Finishes for ап "Unlined" Jacket

Rovelfy seoms ore unottroctive. "(
Моkе tl,e inside of your jocket pretty
using one of these eosy finishes os you '
1

'
1

:�'
sew the seoms.

Turn ond stitch...:. Stilch ¼" lrom 1

row edge. Turn edge of ,eom 1
ollowonce under on that stitching line :
ond edge stitch.

Serged edges - Borely him tl,e edge of

lhe ,eom ollo�nc• os you ove,edge
,.
wilh о 2- or 3-lhreod шged sHlch.
:
Hong Kong seam finish - Sew о 1"
wide Ьiо, ship of lining fobric to edge
of seom, right sides togelher, 1/•• from
edge. Trim to Уа•. Turn lining to wrong
side ond topstitch in welt о1 seom from
top side to colch in place. Trim.

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32
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Sometimes а Great Notion
Hove thes.e sewing oids on hond ot all times - especiolly for
1oik>ringl See referenced pog es for more oЬout "how to use:

GADGET USE PAGE

CuHing ond Мorking Aids
1. P in> ilong, lorge heod) G,eot 1о, 1Mck loЬrics 52
2. Sew;ng gouge (6" rule,J Моn, hem,& 97,108
Ьuttonhole-.s
З. Shorp ,heor, (long, Ь..t l,c,ndlei Smoorh, eYen cutling 50
4. Pinking shoors Cutting fvsiЫ.
intoirfocing, seom
�ni,h 1о, lioed jocket
i
5. EmЬroidciy scii.sors оя Ю \о( Ripping/cbpping/ 53,96
points snippir.g/rrirnming
6 . Trocing whcol l•moott..dged) Speedymorking 52
ond wo,l,oble lrocing роре,
7. Woler юluble morlc.e, Eo.sily reмoved 49,52
morlc.ing
8. Toilor'.s cflolk with holdcr, Eosily removed 49, 52
cho!I<, penoil or wlteel tnOR.ing

Sewingдids
1. Topuilching tope Premoried $eW1ng 122
topo for octuroto
юpstikhing
2. FoЬric glue si.di os SоЬо Liquid gl� for 9lue-- 22, 61, 64,
Ьosting unde,4ining 66,69
ond inN:lffocing

з. Gluo stkk for glue.Ьos1ing 63

4. UnМJю l noodles Ptevenls .skipped 122

stitchм
Turns corne,s right 96
5. Point tutner/c,eoser
sicfo out
'"'
6. Froy Chock or froyNo №,,о.... Prevents rcrvoling on 122
;eomedg.$

зз
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 -
Now Organize These Gadgets:
1. Hong о mug r0<:k on theW<>ll-the hondiest woywe hovefound to
store oll "grob,fo," items. Tie о pretty riЬЬon loop on items thot don't
wont to hong.

2. Fi,'IO O smoll chest of drowel'S to put ,,e)(f to the mochine f()( storing
smoll svpplies ond p(e$Sing equ ipment.

3. Кеер on cм-gonizet 1roy on your mochine for smoll iten,s tlюt won't
hong on tt,e mug rock.

4. Но,щ о Ьulle1i.n Ьootd оЬоvе the mochiлe to hold pottem pieces,

guide sheets, hond needlcs.

5. Pi,, о poper lunch Ьоg on the ironing Ьoord ond tope one to tl-e
mochine for кrops ond tl,reods - we hole to pKk up threods!

NОП - А FR:EE orgonizer - if you .scw next to о window with о

clXloin, pin your potte,-n directions to thc curtoin so they ore eosy
to fond ond follow.

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learn to Press
Pressing Equipment
Don't even consider moking о toilored gom1ent ut\les.syouhove(o r
ore willing to purchose) some Ьшiс pres,ing equipment. The oЬsolute
essentiols ore:

1. Seam roll - о sousoge•

shoped godget used to prмs
open Rot seoms ond cylinders
like sleeve, ond pont legs. The
seom ollowonces foll ovet the
edge of the roll ond ollow your
iron to touch only the stitching
line itself.

2. Pressing hom (toilors hom) - о

hom-shoped surfoce ideol for pressing
cu,ved ond shoped oreos, helps give
"people shope" to flot foЬ.-ic.

З. Point prflSer/dopper - о
wooden combinotion tool used to
p,ess open seoms ond points,
ond to flotten о seom Ьу holding
heat ond steom in о fobric.
Oflen used with о seom
roll or hom.

4, Steom iron - fook for one with

lots ol 1,оlм. We like the "shot-of­
steom" types with on extro Ьv1ton lo
push lor о jet ol steom thot will press
even the most stvbЬorn fobric.

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 There are same fantastic pressi ng aids thot we love for tailoring
ond hope you will try. Вut these ore optionoL

1. June Tailor's Toilor

Boord - the most venotile
p,-essi,,g tool. Тhi$ morvelOU$
1hing hos several "con't live
without" surfoces. The long
curved edge is perfect for
pressing open о cvrved collor seom,
or Ыozer front. Smoll curve just fits
rounded coflors or cuffs, ond the point
presser end is the best way to рrем
into collor points, Works Ьest with
optionol podded cover on top surfoc:e.

2. Press Mitt - Hove you ever f'' 11 11

wonted to press something on о
honger Ьut didn't know h� Jusl slip
your hond into the press mitt ond use
•
your protected ond shoped "hond" os
your ironing Ьoord in the oir.

З. S.,.,_through рrеи clotm - о sheer press cloth thot ollows you to

see whot you're pressing ond still protect the foЬric.

4. June TaiIOr VelvaЬoard - о super iteml lt holds s teom in о

unique bristled pod, then reflec1s it Ьосk into nopped fobria to stoom
press without flottening nop.

NОТЕ: Finger> ore о FREE pressing tool! You con slig htlf finger
press о seom or dort in the right direction BEFORE permooontly
pressing with the iron or pounding Ыосk.

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Press As You Sew
"Press os yov sew" hos Ьееn preoched for yeor$, Ьvt nowhere is it
quite os importont os in loiloring, Pleose don't think you con ignore
pressing ond рау your cleonel'S to press ofter you've finished. Cleoners
con often do о nice final press - but how con they possibfy gel imide
your jod.et ofter it's completed? So rnove the ironing Ьoord next to your
sewing mochine, c,djusl the Ьoord lo mochine tоЫе height, мс1 then
sew, swivel, press, sew, swivel, press.

1. Test press о scrop of fobric first.

2. Press with on "up ond down" motion of the iron w,enever
possiЬle, otheiwise slide iron olong soom in ONE dirEdion in
order to moke о smooth seom.
З. Use lots of Sleom.
4. Pre" on the wrong side. Use о pre$$ cloth if foЬric is heot•
sensitive.

How to Press: А Seam

1. Press seom os it wos 2. Ploc:e seom over secm rotl.
stitched to remove ony Sol\lrote with steom Ьу holding
puckers, ond to Ыend stitches. iron !,i" оЬоvе foЬric surfoce.

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З. Ploce point pre$$er/clopper оп top of seom ond opply light
pressure. Hold clopper on seom until foЬnc is cool. This p,evEnts worm
fobric from stretching out of shope, o.nd flottens seom better than th�
iron con do.

4. Top-pressing in our Ьооk is fine. Мost pres.sing should Ье done from

the inside to prevent pos.siЫe shine, Ьut do top•press when ccnstм::tion
pressing hosn't quite donc thc trick. Soturote with steom, then
fingerpress or gently flotten with clopper.

NOTE: Pressing tokes PATIENCEI! Too-speedy pre"ing сог creote

on overpressed, shiny, 'Tm old ond wom'' loo&c in о new gorment.
Synthetic: foЬria will overpress more quickly thon noturol fobrics
Ьecouse the fiЬers ore mote heot--sensitive, so use о very light
touch witl, these.

How to Press: А Finislled Edge wltll Enclosed Seзms

This oppties to seoms in collors, foced froots, lopels, cnd curved
necklincs. Тrim ond clip where necessory. Press seom os il wos stilc-hed.
Corefully press seom open over seom roll, hom, top of point pres.ser, or
toilor Ьoord� (whkhever is the best fit}. Fold to finished position ond
finol pres.s. This is much foster ond Ьetter thon rolling seom belween
your fingers u,11il 1he seom is turned ovt!

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How to Press: А Dart
Press don os it wos stitched to flo«en fold line ond to Ыend stitches
together. Ploce the don over the oppropriote curve of the hom ond tuck
poper under fofd lo prevent on indcntotion from showing on the right
side. Steom. Flotten with poinr presser/c&opper.

cloon
poper
strip

NOTE: Тhе hom hos mony curves on it - one fOC' every port of
yoor Ьоdу. Bust dcrn go 0<1er the ve,y round curve ot edge of
hom, skir1 dorts over о fJotler cvrve on top surfoce of hom.

Hintt for Dam:

1. 11 don is Ь.,lky, clip open ond
pvr srri ps ol роре.- u,'ldcr cdg�s to
l)f'eve-nt F)f"ess morks on гight sid-e.
Press. cleon
Ц-1/-�';, рор«
strips

2. Verticol dorts ore pressed toword 1•,е center for consistency.

З. Horizontol dom moy Ье pi-essed down or up. We think pressing
dons up gives а smoother, higher-oosted younger look

NОТЕ: Preu lightly - 11 it isn't flot enaugl, 01 fi rst then lightly

pr&SS ogoin. And ogoin. And ogoin. Much Ьcttcr thon too muc:h
the �rst time for о <hiny, old loo k.

З9
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40
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Preshrink!
Fashion Fabric
11 you plan to;
Wash your tailored garment, preshrink in wosher ond dryer with
delergenl ancl some woler temperalure you plan 1о use wnen launclering.
Dry cleon your garmont Ьу tho clean ond press method, toke your
fobric to the clrycleaners oncl hove them pre,hrink it for you. Т,i, heavy
sJeoming process will remove potenliol shrinkoge coused Ьу pressing
oncl lusing. You can clo this yourself with о shot-of,steom type iron а,
clescriЬecl Ьelow.
Uso tho 11cloan only" dryclooning mothod. Simply pr&Steom your
fobric оп your c;utting Ьoord (cover with о sheet if il i s not с podded
Ьoord). Тhis will eliminote the possiЬle shrinkoge from pressing os yov
sew. Steom evenly ond move the iron ocros.s the fobric: with lle groin.
Do not move iron in Ьios direction.

lnterfacings
Preshrink hoir convas Ьу sleoming with о shot,of,steom lype iron or
dompen it ond press until dry.
Preshrink woven fusiЫes and fusiЫe knits Ьу the dvnk meilod:
1. Fold into о tidy squore ond ploce in Ьosin of hot womr for 10
minut&s.
2. Roll in towel to remove excess woler. Hong over towel Ьоr to dry.
Preshrink nonwovon fusiЫos Ьу the steom shrink method:
1. Worm foshion foЬric Ьу pressing wilh steom lo remove wrinkles
ond remoining shrinkoge.
2. Ploce interlocing on lobric (resin sicle down ).
З. Holcl iron 1 •.2• оЬоvе intмfocing ancl ,teom for 5 seaoncls. (А
•,hot-ol-steam• type iron is о great help - it does о Ье"•'
oncl
foster j ob.)
4. fuse interfocing in ploce.

Linings
Preshrink wo,hoЫe linings in woshe, ond clryer. Steam pre" d ry clean­
oЬle linings. Preshrink hancl woshoЬle linings Ьу the clunk methocl
оЬоvо.

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Make Sure lt Will Fit
Pattern Size
Fitting is eosier if you sta,t with the right size
pai..m. Yet many people buy lhe wrong size.
Pottems ore mode for the overoge В bro cup
size. lf you ore о DD ond buy occo,ding to 8
your bust meosurement, your pottern will Ье
100 lorge in lhe neck ond slюulder oreo.
Тoke two meosuremen1$, chest or •high Ьust"'
(AJ ond full Ьust (8). lf lhe difference is 2" or
more, substitvte the 'Ъigh bust• meowrement
for bust on the meosurement chort when buying
pottem.s.
See our Poinless Sewing or Fit Ьоо� for complete filting inform:ition.

Ease
Pottern componies outomoticolly
Ьuild in lhe exko eose needed for
о coot or jocket 10 Ье worn over
other clothes. See how the gormenl
is shown on the pottern envelope. lf
о coot is shown worn over о jocket,
then enough extro eose hos Ьееn
ollowed lor lhot purpase.
Oetermine lhe omount of ease you
like in о iocket. Тry on о jocli.el y04J
currently hove in your wordroЬe.
#Quick Pinch Test": Pinch the
Ьоdу ond ,leeve о1 о ja<kel to
check the eose in о gorment. lf you
pinch 2": that means thot your jock•
el hos 4" о1 eose ol lhol spol. (Уou
are pinching о douЫe lhicl<мss of
foЬric.) Ве sure you ore pinching
only one side, pulling oll lhe lobric
to thot side.

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We love potterns
with �nished garmont
meosurements on the
Ьосk of the envelope.
Howevor, you neod to
know whot eose you
BODY NEASUREMENТS
Size
eus,
Waist
Нi>
8acl<wais1tengll1
8 10
3111 3211
2◄ 2S
16
2611
3311 3◄11 38
ш,
�,
38
161' 16"
FINISHED GARMENТ MEASUREMENТS
Вacl<longti,l,o,nno,mol-
16
38
30
40
16!<

..
prefer. This exomple is Jacl(ot А. е. с 321' 3211 32!< 33 331'
from о МcColl' s potюm Measurement at �
for о misиs' lined or Jacket А, В, С ◄3 45�@49�
М&astnment at l'lipline
unlined jocket. Jackt1 А. 8. С 4311 4411 ,в 48 50

lf your bust meosure.s З6: the eose in о size 14 will Ье:

а basic dress classic Ыоuи classic Ыcner oversized jacket
з.s· eose 7-9" ease 9.11• eose 12.1s·eo"

Тhese eose omounts moy seem like о &ot for о jocket or coot. However,
eose will Ье token up Ьу the heovier fobric, the interfocing, lining, ond
other clothing you weor under it.
Mony of us buy о pollern Ьу high busl meosurement. Therefore, we will
get tho �nished bust size for thot size. lf our bust is fuller, the eose will
Ье less thon the design inlended. Tissuo �lling will tel1 you if that is
О.К. or if you neod to do о Ьust olteroHon. AJso, keep in mind thot
when you buy о smoll (10•12), medium (l2•14), or lorge (16.)8), the
design is cut for the Юrger of the №о sizes.

Two Ways to Fit а Pattern

1. Try th• Pattom On (the eosie$t) - Trim exce.ss tissue owoy. Pre»
pottem with worm dry iron. Pin in the dom ond pin seoms together with
seom ollowonces pinned to the outsido. Clip ormholo ond neckline
curve of tissue ю it will lte Aot. Try po-item on over the som� tурв of
c.lothes you'II weor under the finished gormenl. Pin the pattem center
front ond Ьосk to your center front ond bock- to your clothes thot i$!
Slip in shoulder pod.

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Тissue Fit Checkpoints
(Alwoys work from the top down so you won't miss onything).

ShouJder SМlm - ot center of

shoulcler.•

Shoulder width - ¼•-�·· Ьeyond

pivot Ьоnе in shoulder. (Jocket is wom
ovor other clothes.) (See poge 99 lor
voriotions.}

Grain line - perpendiculor to floor

01 cet1ter Ьосk ood front.
Si<М seams - hong stroight. 11 your
hips ore lorger thon pottem, unpin so
thot poffem moy loll �ly. 11 side
seoms swing toword front, you have о
swoy Ьосk.
Bust darts - point to lмt. Ьut еоо
1" from point of Ьust.
Annholo - fits smoothly. 11 the
ormhole gops in the front, it meons
your Ьust is full er thon pottem; if the
ormhole gop.s in the Ьо<:k, it meons
you hove о roundecl Ьосk.
Woist - should Ье ot woist. (WorSt is
marked on pottem Ьу dots ot side
seom�)

Length - Моkе sure hemline hits you ot the most Пottering po,t о1 your
hip. This generolly meons below the fulles1 pon ol the derriere. (See
poge 14.)
Sleeve - Try the sleeve patlern on ofter first che<king th.e оЬоvе. Pin
lorge dot ot top of sleвve to shoulder ond pin underorm юоm in ploce.
Width is checked Ьу pinching po·ttem ot uppec- orm o<:ross frcm oodel'
orm to see omount of eose. length - hemline $hould hit middle of wrist
Ьоnе (or ½" Ьelow it lor о coot).
• Shoukler seoiм in somc jockets ongle toword 1tю Ьскk os о �.gn line. Che<.k li�
dr� of jocltet 10 sec if shoukler is Wlien1ionolly ong lecf IOW(.)rd Ьtк.\.

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1. F1at Pattem Measure - lf in doubt olter trying оп the tissue
poHern - dооЫе check with о tope meo,ure. Fo.- exomple, il the side
seoms of the pottem won 't come togeiher, ,neosure the pottern ot the
hip oreo ond compore to yo.Jr Ьоdу hip meowrement to see how muc;h
уоо ocluolly need to odd to the sides,

РАТТЕRN

--,1
1
з·· down /
1

,'
1
/

1
' ,
1

:
I\ •
• 1 1W0бt I

r
:
' '
J, :
S- down � !V.eosu� from
1
;
,1 1 sidc to ccnte,
front (cr Ьскk).
\f�<---'J,--� 1 Don't tn<:ludc
dorts ir meosure•
/, men1.

lf po1tem fronl олd Ьосk meowre 20", (thot is reolly 40" since you ore
cutting douЫe), ond your hip is 36" ot the fvllest port, then yotJrpattem
ollows 4· eose which !hould Ь,, omple.

NOTE: Alwoys flot pottcm mcosure in the exoct some ploc::� yov
meosured yoor Ьоdу.

Special Tailoring Alterations

Alter о jo,cket in the some monner уоо would olier ony other
gorm@nt; how ever, the Ьulk of the foЬric (in toiloring) o(ten hides minor
p,oЬlems. (The following ore proЫems you sl,ould Ье sure 10. corrcct.}

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1. Shoulder Adjuпments
Broad or norrow - ls 1he slceve seom exlending ju,t post the shouldet pivOI
Ьоnе? lf not, redrow seom finc from notdwts up.

\.• \
;•

F,oot Frool
ond ond
Восk Восk
Brood Norтow

Square - ho,izontol wrinkfes ot Slop,ng - dюgonol wnnldes

th• Ьоsс of 11,о neck. Ноvо you from neck to lower om,hole. Use
nooced this ;n reody mode j ocke�f thкker ,ho.,lde, pods �о, the Ьest
Re<f<ow shoul�r ond undero,m look) or red-ow shouldc, соо
seanlincs os shown or vse thimer underonn secmfines os sho,,m.
shovlder ро<1,.

Roise \'·····••" lower ,,,.,.

Roise
� .· Front Lower Front
omounl t" o,,d some omount .'/ o,,d
Восk 8ock

2. Dar1 PO<ition
Bu,1 dom should poinl loword lhe Ьv,t point (орех! ond end 1"
oway from орех. (lf you are full bu,ted, dort can end 1½-2" from opex.J

=
Roise о dor1 Lowм о dart
Ro-SC pci111, Orop point,
redtow higl,..- redrow lower ,,:... '

Shorten о dort Lengthen о dort

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3. Enlarge Bustline
Pottem, ore mode for 8 bro cvp size. А С cvp shovld hove по
proЬlem, Ьvt о D cup or lorger should odd extro room. 11 y<>v hove о
diogonol wrinkle from ormhole to bust or goping front ormhole yov
need to molce rhis olteration.
NОТЕ: Тhis olterottМ is the some in о jacket with о side ponel -
the dort will still Ье in the front, Ьut w;ft Ье о bit shorter.
1. Find орех - Тry pollem on ond
mork point of lмt with о soh tip реп.

2. Drow line (А) on your pottem

where you would like о don.
3 . Drow line (В) from орех to
otmhoto notch. •
,.
••
4. Drow line (Q vorlicolly Ьelow ''
''
орех to Ьottom of jockot (through •' ' о
center of dort if you hove one).
5. Drow line (D) оЬоvе front cvrve.
6. Cut оп lines (Q ond (В) to, Ьvt
not throvgh ormholo. Cvt on line {А)
to, but not through орех. AI on-ow
,preod, ½'· for С cvp; ¾• lor D cvp;
1¼"-1½" for DD cvp.

---�=-
---
7. Cvt (D) ond drop vntil hems ore
even. lnsef't tissve ond tope in ploce.
Side opefling Ьecomes dort. Roise or
lower doo1 if necessory. Toke off from '.
•
front side seom if now too full through
1:
1.
wcist or hip. ''

..______, р
After you sew the horizontol bustline 'Ч----'
don,i yovr front ond Ьосk side seoms will
ogo n Ье the some le1'9lh.

NОП: Three odded Ьonuses, yoor orml,ole will no longe· gop;

you will hove more width ocross the Ьvst; you will hove more
length going over yoor lorger Ьvs1 ond yovr joclcet will 110 loi')ger
hike up ot Ьottom in the front.

47
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4. "Gaposis" of the roll line.
Simply shonen twill tope
wмn sewing to pull in the ro/1
line so it hugs your cмst (see
poge 54}. lf it gops о lorge i
� nol
omount, slюrten roll line Ьу redtow
toSci,щ о tuck in pottem. (Ве svre r,,,. rol line to
to moke this chonge on i.troighten
interfocing ond focing olso). Thi.s
does not chonge tм position of
the roll line. lt still begins ond
ends ot the юmе points.

5. Extra width needed

in the hip area.
Add equolly to front,
Ьосk ond side ponel,
i
Ьeg nning ot ormhole.
Oivide omovnt уоо need
to odd (2..) Ьу tne '' \
"°"'
numЬer of side seom Ьосk 1
1
'' '1
•'
ollowonces (4 on eoch '
''' ''' '''
'
1 1
1
s ide=В}. Add tnot omount

'' "�
2"+8•¼1 to eoch side '1
os shown when you cut.
L
6. Sleeve too tight in upper onn.
Мeosure orm ot undcrorm oreo. Alter sleeve os follOWS:

,,...-...,
,/'
.'.'
'\,�
'
� , ......'..
'

... '''
''''
.'' ''
'
''
'--•-• •-•а•:
Мeosure po1tem ot То odd, cu1 on Spreod о 2 piece
underorm oreo, g,oinlines osshown sleeve oslhcwn
ond spreod desired оЬо...
anou•"·

48
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7. Sway Ьасk or erect Ьасk causes
skle seoms to �ng forword, center
Ьасk to swing toward side ond ~t
to sp,eod оре,,. Pin po"em to Ьасk.
Toke tuck until po"em center Ьасk
hang, straight. (Тuck moy Ье made
higher or lower or even 2 ,mall tucks).
Straighten center Ьасk Ьу drowing line
connecting top ond Ьа"оm. ,-◄- \
, '

Fitting As You Sew

'
1

After уа,., hove complctcd the front ond Ьасk, pin side ond shoukler
seoms wrong side, together with pins on seom line. Pin up hem.
Тry on right side out si,,ce nght and left sides of Ьаdу are different.
NOТI:: The neck musl Ье stoyslitched ,о thol il won·t slretch (see
pc,ge 61). lf the foЬric i, stretchyar loo,ely woчen, you shovld not
hang the jocket on а hanger until the collor is ,�tched on.

You со1' odjust the eose

oround the Ьаdу Ьу pinning
deeper аг shollower side
seoms. You тау also wont to
madify jocket fo, your figure
Ьу slightfy topering eoch side
seom in ¼"•¼" ot � woist.
This gives о sligh�y more
slender look Ьу creoting on
hourgloss
. illusion.

NОТЕ: After you have

mode oll уоuг odjustmenlS,

-�•'
mork new seom lines.
Sp,eod орел seom ollow•
оnсм ond mork at pins on
wrong side о, garment
using toilOfs' chalk or woter
soluble morking pen.
NOTE: See the
Polme</Pletsch lit Ьооk fог
in.depth help fitting.

49
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Cutting and Marking are Related
Cutting
1. Lining {see page 30),
2. lnterfocing (see page 27}.
З. Foshion foЬ.-ic - thing• to ched< for Ьefore cuning,

• Upper collor must Ье lorger thon under collor ond focing n,ust Ье
lorger thon lopel (see page 55 for explonotion of "n,m,of<loth'"). Тhе
omount depends on the weight of your fobri<:. AII pa«ems should ollow
ot least ¼". You moy wont to odd more if your fobric is very heovy.

focing

front

center under
Ьосk colk,r

Loy jockct fron, Loy upper c�lor pottem

po1tem (1Vet foc:ing piece ove-r undet collo,­
po«crn ot Юреl. pottern piece.

• For о rolled collor thot rolls smoothly, the u,,der collor shoulcl Ье
on the bios ond cut in two pieces ond hove о center Ьосk seom. А one­
piece oll Ыоs collor will hove lвngthwiю groin (which is stronger) in
opposite directions ot collor poinls, ond left ond right moy end up
looking different.

То сопесt, Cut pattem in holf ond odd о center Ьосk seom

allowonce.

50
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Marking
1. Snip Mork when cutting for sp&ed ond greoter occurocy. Cut off
notches ond snip ¼" into edge on oll pieces - foshion foЬric,
underlining, interfocing ond lining. Snip mork oll dots ond matching
points. Snip nюrk oll the following:

1er front
collor
dot 7
1
,l,oulder
'' 1
\ '
'1
""
side
seom "'
'•
,,
under
sloove
fr'ont
"roll line
side
hem
fold

,houlder dort
�
,,,, collor
' dol

notche,

Ьосk
center
Ьосk undcr

:� .
---. colk>t

snouJ,
hem
fold 1
collor
vent fold dol dot

NOTE: Leorn wtюt the pottern morking.s meonl Reod yoor ,=:ottem
in.struction.s.

51
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2. Additional markings on underlining
Use о trocing wheel ond wo1hoble trocing poper ог wote· soluЫe
morker to mork dol't$. lt is not necessory 10 mork dorЬ on foshion fobric.
оп fashion fabric when по undertining
T ry the trocing wheel. lf it doesn't work, use the "pin•morking"
method. Put pins through pottern dots. Remove pottern. Put pins in the
Ьonom layer in the
some ploce the pins
come through. Now
pin dorts in ploce.
Pins folling outi Mork
the pin posilion with
water soluЫe morker.
on interfacing
Могk Ь..nonholes,
roll line ond center
front using leod or
cholk pencil ond rvler.
Loy leh ond right
interfocing on the
tоЫе focing eoch
other. Ploce the ruler
Ьetween snips ond
drow о line with о
pencil. When opplying
interfocin;g to fobric,
pencil morks should Ье
on top. Wh.en using
fusiЬle, you con mork
these oher lusing for
more occurocy.

�c.onter front

NOTE: lf о roll line is not printed on pottern undercollar ond

front, pin front, bock ond undercollor together olong sfitching
line$ ond try on. Roll collor ond &opel until cotlor cover$ nкktine
$e0m ond gorge line is flot. Creose ond mark tiuve - lhol'$ your
roll line.

52
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Tailoring What's and Why's
These orc some of the techniques that universolty opply to toilored
gorments ond the reosons wf1y they ore used . .

1. Eliminating Bulk
Why: There оrв usuolly more la yers of foЬric used in toiloring ond
often heovier thon in о dress or skirt.

lnterfacing - The inlerfocing in о custom toilOfed garmenr is gen­

erolly heovier; therefore interfacing i, not induded in dorts, neck, front,
ond underorm s.eams. Trim seoms ond dorts oway if yoor pottern hos
nol done so. For stitchoЬle interafocings, remove fulr 5/е" seom
ollowonce. Мо,t of today', fv,iЬle, ore not bulky ond con Ье included
in seoms ond dorts.
See page 70.

1
1
1

i
Remove seom ollowoncis in
stitchoЫo intetfocing. lюve
1h.т wtlen using fusiЫes.

lf your fobric is vety bulky, you moy оlю wont lo trim interfocing out
of corners of о very pointed collor. However, to prevent roveling, leove
fusibles in point so you con
trim doser to eliminote bulk.

Enclosed S&ams - dve to

tho extro bulk of fabr;c ond Trim seoms
extro loyers of shoping foЬ,ics to 'I•:"
IJ$ed in toiloring, il is necessory Grodoo,
to trim ond grade or bevel loyer insido
seoms. seom lo ¼."

53
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 NОП: You may trim
and grade Ьу
"Ьeveling." Simply
slon1 scissors wtiile
trimming ond оое
l ayer will autamatically
Ье norrower. Super on
heovy coo1in9s too -
Ьevel seon'tS one loyer
ot о time.
Dom - usually slashed and pre...,d open ta spreod the Ьtlk evenly.
(See poge 39.)

2. Taping
Why: Таре is u,ed 1о
stobllize edges ond to prevent
stretch.
Roll line - which is оп the
blas. Таре keeps the roll line
from stretching . Ploco ¼" twill
tope (preshrunk) next to the roll
line ond fell stitch in ploce.
Go one step further ond pull
the tope tighter to prevent
"goposis" of the nec.kline ond
force the lopel lo roll. Pin one
end of tope next to roll line.
Маkс о pencil mOfi< on the tope
ond mork on the interfocing the
oppropriote distonce '7NO'f. Pull
other end of tope until morics
line up. Pin, distributing fullneu
equolly along roll Hne from top
to Ьottom. Stitch in ploce eosing
evenly onto tape.

PULL the !аре tighter:

1,у ¼" for smoll bust
Ьу ¾" for medium bust
Ьу ½" for h,11 bust

Do Ьoth fronts ot the some time

so they look the some.

54
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 Front ond neck edges -
toping prevents stretch ond \
eliminotes bulk in seoms Ьу \
\
holding interfocing (with seom \
allowonces lrimmed owoy) in \
1
ploce (use ½" =m lope -
pr""1rvnk), '
\

Clip lope ond spreod for

inword curves like the neckline
ond clip tope ond overfop on
outword curves like the Ьotrom
of о iocket. .V.Oke sure uncut
edge of tope is next to seom
line.

NОТЕ: lf о foЬric;, sloЬle or gormenl is nol one you'II weor o 101,

you moy eliminote toping edges. Topin9 may Ье eliminotcd n thв
fusiЫe method if the interfocing is included in scoms.

3. Allowing for "Turn­

of-cloth" - in lopel ond collor
Why: 11 lokes more fobric
for the upper collor lo roll over
tne under collor. Md to the
ouler edges of lne upper collor if
upper collor pottern pie<:e is not
olreody lorger. ($ее poge 50).
How much to odd:
¼"' for light-medium weight
foЬric
¼" for medium�heovy wcight
foЬtic
¾" for very heavy cootings
Also check lopel. Focing
should Ье C1JI lorger. See poge
50 for how to cut lorger ir not
ollowed Ьу ponem.

55
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Hand Stitches and their Alternatives
in "Custom" Method in "Eos.iest" Method

pod e)(tro
strtcn
fvsible
1v,;,.,,Н...-fell inter•
Slitch focing

mochine
roping

-+--fusible
cotch interfocing
stitch

blnd
hem

1. Pad stitch - smoll slitch thot

aHoches interfocing 10 under collor
ond lopel. 11 occomplishes 3 things in
one:
• adds Ьоdу - lhe closer ond
smoller the stitches, the more
Ьоd у.
• forcei two layers to Ьehave
as one
• creates permonent roll Ьу
folding loyer, over hond while
stitching (see poge 82).
Easier Ways: Ьу mochine о, Ьу
fusing.

2. Tailor basting - lorge pod

stitches uscd to hold large oreos of
interfocing in ploce. Use о size 10
shorp needle ond cotch only о liber of
foshion foЬnc so stitch won'I show or
cotch ooly underlining.

56
Файл предоставлен группой vk.com/knigi_vikroiki
3. Fell stitch - а ¾" long stitch
used to hold tope tightly in place.
Eosier Way: /1/юу mochinc slitch
tope in рlске. (See poge 67.)

4. Catch stitch - о loose stitch used to

cotch edges of interfocing in pfoce.
Becouse it is loose, it will rюt ccoto on
interfocing rIOge on the right side.
Easier Way: М.Оу use о fvsible
interfacing оп hem ollowoncs.

5. Blind hem - о loow Slitch done

on inside of hem thot mokes о truly
invisible hem. Use о size 10 shorp
needle ond cotch only о liЬer of your
fobric ond moke each stitch aЬout ¾'
apon.
Easier Way: Мochine Ьlind hem.
(Тest fo, invisibllity of stik:hes.)

-
6. Slip stitch - used fo, jump hem
in lining ond to ottoch pockets. Whвn
the threod is pulled tight, eve,ything
disoppeor,.

7. Stab stitch - о loose n.,nning

stitch thot joins two seoms thot foll on
top of eoch other. Needle gocs into
well of secm on top ot on ongle ond
comes out of well on under l oyer.
Uscd to oHoch upper collor/focing
seom to under coHor/iocl/:et seom.

57
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Easy, Easier, Easiest ... Which Опе?

Ве sure to rood up on your robric choice in "Sewing ond Shopi ng

Tips lo, Toiloring FoЬ..ics" (see poge 17) for odditionol help in deciding
on о method. RememЬer though, we·re blosed! We try to use the
"Eosie,1·· Мethod whenever ромiЫеl

NОП: You moy use 011у method you wish fo, eoch jocket pie<e. lf,
however, you underline thc lront, yov shovld olso underline the
Ьосk ond sleeve for о consistent look.

Custom - Primorily hond mode - u,,,. good quolity

hoir convos.
Eosy - N\ochine stitch hair convos to on under•
lining - hond pod stitch lopcls.
Eosier - Fuse. о fusiЫe intef'focing to on undetfining.
Eosie1t - Fuse о fusible interfocing directly to
foshion fobric.
(Refer to poge 9 for co,nplete definitions)

Time Chart (in hours)

To,k Custom Eosy Easier Easiest

Culling 3 3 3 1½
Fronts 10 6 4 1
Bock 3 1 1 ½
Collor 6 2 1 ½
Sleeves 2 1 1 1
Bou1xJ Butlonholes 2 2 2
Lini1)9 4 2 2 2
Finishing {Вulton.s, 3 1 1 1½
Buttonholes, He-,ns
18 15 8

58
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Файл предоставлен группой vk.com/knigi_vikroiki
The Pieces: Fronts
Custom Tailored
Ве sure to use good quolity hoir convos interfocing with о higf,
wool contenl. Just igr"Юre tl,e u1'Юerfining comments if you ore not
us.ing one.

1. Cut interfocing, (see poge 271

underlining ond foshion fobric. Snip
moii< center front, roll line, ond collor
plocement оп oll three (5"е poge 51).
Cut dort out of interfocing.

roll line
in1erfccing

2. With оп underlining, moii< dorts center

ond Ьu1tonholes on undetlining ooly. front
Without on unde-rlining mori< dorts
o,,d Ьuttonholes оп foshion fobric. Cut
dorts out of interfocing. Mork enlire
roll line, center front, ond oo'ttonhole$
оп interfocing onty.

foihion
foЬric

3. Oire<:tiono11y stoyslitch foshion

foЬ<ic ½" lrom edgc, oll Ьut Ьottom
edge. Thc curved oreos (Ьiosl like the
nectt ond onnlюfc ore о musl!

NOTE: Stoystitchir.g s,eems like unnecesюry extro work, Ьut it's

essentiol with loosely woven foЬc-ics or о gorment thot ·нill Ье
hondled о lot during construc-t.00. Stoystitching is done to prevent
stretching of cut edges. Stitcl, ½" from the edge in the direc:tion
shown.

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4. Ploce underlining on foshion
foЬric, lining up snips. Press together
to reтove ony wrin.lcles.

5. Glue loyer, togelher on oll seom undetfininp

ollowonces except Ьottom ond lopel
(leove loose to ollow lor "tum-of.
,i
cloth," poge 55).
,
,,...
,,,
111

6. Sew dor1s. 11 underfining, ploce

'.'
, 1 1

pins through dor1s lo p,event slippoge.

Мochine Ьoste through center ol dor1
to hold loyers together. Boste post
point /о, о Ьetter hold ond remove
ony stitches lhot show loter. Then sew
dorls through oll loyers. Slosh open
ond press 1/ot (see poge 39).

_f_
7. Моkе Ьound buttonholes now (see ...,,,_
,:11,.
�

..., ....
poge 109).

111
1 ''
.L• L.
' 1 1
1 1

8. Prepore dort in interfocing. Cut о

Ьios strip of lightweight lining foЬric
1 • wide ond 1 • longer thon dort, ond
sew edges to it. Sew bios strip to one
side. Pivot, Ь,ing dor1 edges together
ond sew down othe< side.

61
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9. Pin interfoci ng to jocket front (Ьios
strip next to jodcet}. Ве sure roll line
ond center front $nips line vp.
Trim о rectongle ovt where
Ьuttonholes ore ond pull Ьuttonhole

...
lips through.

10. Trim ¾" from interfocing in oll Ьut

ormhole seoms.

11. Hond Ьoste roll line in ploce,

through oll loyers.

12. Toilor Ьoste (..., poge 56) convos

to foshion fobric. Co1ch only
underlining or о liber of your fosnion
lobric. (Use size 10 shorp needle lor
invisiЫe stitches.) S1i1ches snould Ье
porollel to roll line 01 lop ond porollel
to center fronl bek>w roll line.

13. Now tщ,е roll line with ¼" twill

lope. Ploce lwill tope up ogoinsl
roll line, pull ¼" 10 ½" tighler (...,
poge 54), ond fell stilch in р1осе (=
poge 57).

NOTE: You moy leove о З"

extension or twill tope 01 the top.
This will Ье o«oched to collor
roll line for exlro strength {see
poge 94).

62
Файл предоставлен группой vk.com/knigi_vikroiki
14. Shope lopel Ьу rolling it over о
wosh cloth thot hos Ь.,,,n rolled into о
sousoge shope, ond steom it. Allow it
to cool ond dry before nюving.

riglt
side

15. Begin close to the roll line ond

pod lopel with stitches poгollel lo it,
Ьorely cotching outside foЬric (see
poge 56). Hold lopel over your hond
to creote о permonent roll. Моkе
stitches ¼" in length ond ¼" oport for
о distonce of ¾" frorn the roll line.
Then they con Ье lorger ond ¼"-½"
oport os you move to outsidc С:Юgе.
Do not roll over ho.nd os much os you
opprooch outer edge or poinl will
curl.
right
side

16. Now tope neck ond front edges

with ½" seom tope (p,eslvunk). Ploce
one edge ogoir.st ¾" seom line. Fell
stitch {see poge 57) Ьoth edges in
ploce.

17. Remove roll line bosting.

wro<,g
s.ide

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 NOTE: lf а jacket does NОП: � jacket ha, а
not have а lapel, tope all cut·on focing, extend
tne woy to the top. inte-rfocing ½" Ьeyond
fold for exlro Ьоdу and
tope to fold.
center front
� fold linc

Modified Speed-Taping Method:

А woy to ovoid hond toping ond still eliminote bulky ccnvos from
secнn ollowonces in о gorment with о seporote f·ocing. This method is
excellent for velvet ond velveteen.
1. Cvt о strip of li9htwei9ht lining
(Poly-SiВonne Pfvs is good.} 1 • wide,
some shope ond groin os edge of
front pottem piece.
interfocing
2. After seom ollowo,-.ces hove Ьееn lining
trin,med from your inte,iocing, overlop
lining ¾" ond glue.-Ьastc with glue
stick.
3. Stitch linin9 to edge of front
interfocing, li11ir,g side up, with one twtong
�de)
row of zig-zog ()( two r� of stroight
stitc:hing.
4. Glue intetfocing in ploc.e with
SоЬо.
5. ToiIOf Ьoste interfocing, tape l'oll
line. Co,,rinue os with Cus101n Fro,,t.

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Front Piece: Easy
Mad,ine Ьaste interfacing to unc:lerlining
Мust use on undertining. Ве sure to use о hoir convos interfocing -
ony quolity will won< with this method.

1. Cut f0$hIOn fobric, under• 2. Мork dorts on undcrlining

lining, ond inrerfocing, Stiip only. Cut clorts ovt of
mori< center front, roll line, inrerfocing. Мoiic entim roll
collor plocement on oll three. line, center front, oncl button­
holes on intcrfocing only.

·г,,,�
,,:
,,,
1 1
'
1
1
1' 1
1
1 I 1
1
1
'

З. Ploce interfocing on underlining.

Trim ¼" lrom shoulder, neck, side ond
front of interfocing if pollem is not
olreody trimmed. Glue,Ьoste
interfocing to underlining (dot over
efltire surfoce) with glue stick. This
kee1» inlerfoc.i ng from slipping while
stilching. Let dry 5 minutes. (You moy
stitch through glue dolS).

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4. !Vюchi ne stitch (OWS of stitching
porollel to roll line ond c<,nter lront
1" Opo(I, cotchi ng interfocing to
underlining. lf gorment doe. not hove
о lopel, moke oll rows porollel to
cente( front. Zig•zog or Uroight stitch
O(ound do(t 1 /1," from cut edge.
,,.,,,,,,
5. Stitch ½" S<!om tope to ne<:k ond
front edgos of interlocing ond ,,,
'1'
undertining, using stroigflt 0t zig"zog 1 '
mochine stitchos on Ьoth edges. М<1у 1.'
1 ' \

/ 1 •
glue-Ьostc seom tope in pJoce first
with glue stick.

NOTE: Toping is optionol with

this method since undeflining wШ
oct os о stoЬilizer. However,
coots thot get lots of weor ond
loosely woven woolens sl,ovld Ье
toped.

1 '.
6. St<1yStitch foshion fobric. 1 ''
t 1 • • •
7. Appty underlining/interiocing unit
to w,ong side of foshion fobric
motching oll snip mo,ks. М'1у dооЫе
check Ьoth fronts for occvrocy Ьу
plocing pottem over eoc:h front.

8. Glve-Ьoste sid.., ormhole,

sl,ovlder, neck, ond front with SоЬо
(see poge 22). Do not glve-Ьoste lopel
or bottom edges. Leove loose fOf' lum
of cloth (""' poge 55). Hond Ьoste
throvgh oll l<1yers on roll line.

foshion foЬnc

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9. Sew dorts throogh underl;ning ond
fo,l,ion fobric oll in one (see poge 61).
Do not cotch interfocing. Slosh open
ond р,е,., (See poge 39).

10. Торе roll fine. Pull tighter Ьу ¼"­

½" (see poge 54) ond stroight stitch or
zig-zog in ploce.

NOTE: СНЕАТI When

mochine topi ng the roll
line, slitch the lost two
inches ot the Ьollom Ьу
l1ond so your mochioo
stitches w()(t't show on
the ootside.

11. Ro/1 lopel over wo,h cloth ond steom into snope. (See poge 63).

12. Но11d pod lopels over your hond. (See poge 63).

13. For bool1d Ьuttonholes, trim oway о redongle ¼• wide ond thc
length of the Ьuttonholes iл the oreo whe,e buttonholes will Ье mode to
efiminote Ьulk. Моkе Ьound Ьu«onholes now, mochine Ьuttooholes
loter (see poge 108).

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Front Piece: Easier
Fuse interfacing to underlining
You must use on underlining, but you moy use ощ fusiЬle
interlacing depending on how much Ьоdу is ne«led.

1. Cul foshion fobric, underlining ond

interfocing. Snip mork cenler fronl, colIOr
plocemenl ond roll lino on oll lhree.

2. Mork dor1s on underlining only.

;,/iork entire roll line, center front ond
buttonhote.s on interfocing only. Cut
dons out of interlacing.
••
un<:lcr• 1 1i
lining 1:1
З. Pkice inlerfocing on underfining. ,,,
,,'
1 1 �
Line up snip morks.

4. S1eom Ьosle interfocing in ploce

''
f 1 1

(slightly fuse - ono second).

5. Trim 1/a"off interfocing shoukfer, side,

neck ond fronl. fo, Ьound buttonholes lrim
о reclongle ¼" wide ond the length of lhe
buttonhole out of buttonhole oreo.

6. Fuse inte,focing to undertininэ os

shown.

7. Pioce ½' seom lope on fтonl ond neck

eclges next to seom line. Glu&-Ьoste tope in
ploce wilh glue sHck, clipping lope where
necessory (see poge 55). Slroight slik:h or
zig,zog Ьо1h edges of lope in ploce.

NOTE: Toping i, opHonol he,e since

underlining octs os о sюbllizer. However,
cools 1h01 gel lots of weor con Ье юреd.

NOTE: fo, о twc,piece p,inc.., style

fтonl, lrim ond fuse interlacing 1о
underfining os shown, Ьefore stitching
princes.s s.eom.

68
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8. Ploce underlining/interfocing unit
on foshion fobric, lining up sni ps. Loy
ponem on top of eoch front to che<k.
9. Glue-Ьoste sides, ormhole,
shoulder, neck, ond front with SоЬо
(see poge 22). Do not glue-Ьoste lopel
or Ьottom edges. Leava foo� for turn
of cloth (see poge 55).

10. Hond о, mochine Ьoste through

roll line Ьono.-n to top.
11. Directionolly stoystitch oll but
Ьonom ond lopel.
.
••
lashion faЬnc
12. Sew dons through underlining ond
foshion foЬ..ic (see poge 61). Slosh ond
press орел.
13. Торе roll line. Pin х• twill tope
next to roll line - pull tighter Ьу ¼".
½" (see poge 54) ond zig-zog o.­
stroight slitch in ploce. Hond stitch losl
2" so stikhi� line won't show on the
outside. (See poge 67.)
14. Press lopel ov..- rolled up wosh
cloth to shope it. No need to pod,
stitch os мiЫе givos Ьоdу -
underlining ond tope help it roll (see
poge 63).
15. Glue-Ьoste (with SоЬо) underlining
to foshion fobric seom ollowonc:es in
lopel oreo while lopel is still rolled
over wosh cloth. Allowing for "tum--of­
cloth" helps creote roll.
16. Моkе Ьound buttonholes now,
mochin� Ьuttonholes loter.

69
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Front Piece: Easiest
Fuse interfacing lo foshion fobric
fuse а test somple. Check far amaunt of Ьоdу lusiЬle in·erfacin9
gives, and for о ridge on ou�ido.
Weft inlerfocings worii. on mosl fobrics
and ore not Ьulky. Therefore, we no
longer trim ½• from ouler edges.

1. Cut foshion foЬric. Мork dOl'ts.

Cut intenacing (see poge 27).
'
'.
''
NОТЕ: Pink inside edge of 1 1
interfoc:ing Ьefore fusing to moke
it tess visible.

2. Fuse interfocing to foshion fobric

following interfocing monufocturers
in$trvctiom.

NОП: Fo, extro Ьоdу in lopel,

you moy $leom Ьoste on extro
piece of interfocing to lo pel
under fronl interfocing, Моkе it
¼. srтюller on outside edges ond ' 1
ploce ogoinst roll line. • 1
1
1
З. Мochine slitch tope to roll line.
{$ее poge 67.)
А. Becouse fusiЫes ore thermoplostic,
yov con heot set them i.nto ony shope
you wish. Shope lo pel Ьу rolling it
ow,r о wosh cloth thot hos been
rolled into о sousoge shope, ond
steom press. Allow it to cool ond dry
Ьefore moving.
5. Sew dorts.
6. Do Ьоооd Ь.,ttonholes now, or
mochine Ьvttonholes after jocket is
fonished.

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Alternate Fusing
Methods ,1 upper collor
1,1m 1
under colkw

1. Fuse to front, focing,

under collor, ond upper
collor: Fusing to oll pieces
o.s shown gives moximum
shop;ng ond Ьоdу. lt's greot
'
.
.
: ''
for 1;ghter weight fobrics, 1'

. '
rovelly fobrics, or j11St e:x1to
crispt1ess.
• '
' 1

fron, focing

2. Fuse to entire
front.

1 1
,
, 1
о,
1 1
t 1
' 1
"
1'

3. Fusc to fo<ing
and lapel only ...
о qukk reody-to�
weor method.

71
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Файл предоставлен группой vk.com/knigi_vikroiki
The Pieces: Backs
А "Ьodt stay" or Ьосk interfocing is oЬsolutely necosso,y /о,- о
good looking, duroЫe gorment - rememЬer your jocket spends 90% о!
itt life оп о honger. The Ьосk stoy is Ьest cut stroight groin in one piece
from oNnhole to ormhole in 0tder to obsoc-b "reoching strtss.. . lf о
pottem piece is not included for о Ьосk stoy, cul one occcrding to
instructions on poge 27.
lf your Ьосk sloy is cut from о hoir convos, it is Ьc-st to trim awoy
seom ollowonces. However, if your foЬric ond Ьосk stoy ore not Ьulky,
inc:lude them in the seom ollowonce.

Back Piece: Custom Method

(with 01' without on underfining}

1. Cut foshion fobric, interlocing ond

underlining.

2. Мorit dorts on underlining ond

interfocing (on foshion fobric if no
underfining is used).

З. Glue•Ьoste underlining to fos.hion

fobric. Stoystitch eoch piece
dil'ectionolly where necesюry.

4. Sew line of stitchi,� throvgh

center of dorts, stitch through both
loyers. Slosh open ond p,cs,.

5 . Sew center Ьосk seom ond

ptess ope,n.

6. Cvt dorts out of intetfocing.

Sew dorts os on poge 61.

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7. Ploce interfocing оп Ьосk
Trim ¾• olf neck, shoolder, о,ю
underarm seoms.

8. Using ½" seom tope, tope

neck edge Ьу hond. Use fell
stitch (,ее poge 57). Leove 1
1
shoulders ond sides of interfocing
free os they will Ье cought in
place loter - simply pin to hold
now.

An Alternate Custom Method

This methad is FASTER Ьecause neckline taping is elimin,ted. Use
о li 9htwei9ht poly/col10n interfacing foЬ,ic. lnclude it in oll seoms and
dorts.
1. Cut Ьосk slay occording to in.structions on page 27. Оо not trim
seom allowances оП. Mark dart, оп Ьосk stay only.

2. Glue-Ьos16 Ьосk stay to

foshion fobric unit on neck,
shoulders, ormholes, ond
underorm seom ollowonces.

З. Sew through center of darts.

Sew darts through all thicknesses.
Slash open and press.

NOTE: This is our

favorit• Ьасk
interfocing methad.

74
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Back Piece: Easy/Easier Methods
Тhese methods opply to on underlined iocket with о one,piвce
Ьосk without а vent. You moy U$e the some intetfocings os suggested
in Custom or ony medium to heovyweight fvsiЫe. lv\ochine stitch (or
fuse) the interfocing to the underlining, then underfine the Ьосtс unit.

2. Pl0<e interf0<ing оо
undetfini ng. Trim ¾" seom
ollowonccs off ncck, shoukler,
ond underorm if pottem did not
eliminote them.

З. EASY - Glu..ЬO,te
inlerfoc:ing to ormhole seom
ollowonce,. Мochino s�lch 1/1••
from edge of interfocing ot dort,
shoulder, ond underorm to ho&d
in pl0<e.

EASIER - Use fusiЬle

interfocing ond fuse to underfining.

undorfining

4. Мochine s�i.:h ½" seom topo to neck edge clipping о, on page 55.

5. Glue-bщte interfocing/underlining unit to foshion foЬric wilh SоЬо

о, similor fobric gluo {ж, poge 22).

75
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Back Piece: Easiest Method
11 you've selected о true 8 hour Ыоzе, fobric wf1..-e you· lu,iЬle
interfocing cul edge does nol leove о ridge оп the right side, then luse
to tne Ьосk too! RememЬ.r tnough, there ore по dorts or l)Od<ets оп the
Ьосk (like there ore оп tne front) to cornoufloge the interlocing edge.
We ohen fu,e to tne fronts, collor, etc, but use о stitchoЫe inttrf ocing
ocross the Ьосk, u,ing tne Altemote Cuslom Мetnod poge 74.
lf fusing, olwoys ею о test somple first to see if the fusiЫe shows. Use
о light or medium weight fusiЫe ond fuse to о one or two piece Ьосk os
follows,

1. Cut bock interfocing.

NOTE, То prevent
ridge, pinlc Ьоноm
edge of interfocing
belore fusi ng .

2. Fuse interfocing to
bock.

Two piece Ьосk

З. Staystik:h neck edge.

4. Sfitch dorn through oll

loyer>.

5. Sew center Ьасk seom.

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Back Vents
lnterfacing а vent
lnterfoce teft vent fOf wrinkle resistonce ond to prevent stretchi ng
since it is the one thot ison the outside. The right vent is left vnirterfoced
to reduce Ь.,lk. Аlю ,ее hem interfocing ted,niques О<1 poge 97.

C.ustom method - interfocing is

included in fold for о finn, crisp edge.
Ploce inteгfocing ½" post vent fold
ond hem fold 0<1 gonnent side, ond
cotch stitch interfocing in ploce. Use leh
о hoir convos. Ьосk

snip hcmline

Eosieit method - fuse

interfocing to fold line of venl.

leh
Ьосk

t
hem fold-1-+----

NOTE: Hem interfocing is cul on the blos so thot it will go around

your Ьоdу softly.

77
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Sewing а vent

1. Sew center Ьосk scom to

dot. Press open.
snip
2. Snip right Ьосk 5'!0m rig/,t
ollowonce to ccnter of lost stitch. Ьосk
to юоm
rig/,t
Ьосk

snip venl fold

З. Press toword leh Ьосk,

creosing left venl froin center
Ьосk stitching line to center Ьосk
sn\ps ot Ьottom.
lef1

4. PreS$ ¾" seom oll owonce

under on right vent.

5. At top of vent grode edge.

Ьу trimming ¼" off right vent.
Cotcl, stitch Ьoth top edges in
рЮСе to underlining or with fine
needle to foshion fobric. fold venl ot sni:>

78
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Мiterin g о vent
This is о wper cleon finish for rhe Ьorrom of the lefr vent. Eosy 10 do
too! Bu1 coution - since this connot Ьс olteted moke certoin your
jocket is long enovgh or woit to miter vent until jocket is reod-1 to finish.

1. Fold left Ьосk vent from 2. Fold up hem olowonce

center Ьос.k snip ot Ьоноm to ond snip intersection where
center Ьосk se<un li,'lie. Press. edges meer.

rig!,r
rig!,r

3. Unfold ond li,,e up snips. 4. Tri.m from snip to comer

leovi119 ¼" seom ollowonces.

79
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 right

5. Tum right sides together 6. Diogonolly trim seom ot

ond stitch ¼" seom. comer to eliminote b1..lk. Tum
ond press.

left
7. Turn lower edge о/ righl
Ьосk vent to outside 0Юf19
hem line. Stitch edges 1ogethe,
on ¾" seom li,-.e. Trim, rurn
ond press.

80
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The Pieces: Collars
Custom Method
Upper Collar - Ве sure to reod
oЬout tvm-<>f-cloth before cutting
collors, page 55. Upper collor may
Ье underlined to cushion outer
seom ollowonces.
1. Pre$S the two l oy ers
together.

2. Glue Ьoste - dot

glue on seom ollowonces
ond pot together.

Under Collar - Follow cutting instructions on poge 50.

1. Cut vnder collor ond interfocing оп bios. Мork roll line with snips
on foshion foЬtic ond with pencil or troci,19 wfleel on interfocing.

foll
roll
ltne

2. Sew center Ьосk

seom of under callor ond
pre» open. Trim to ¼".
N
3. Trim ¼ оН interfocing ot center Ьосk ond outside edges. Slip
interfocing under center Ьосk seom ollowonce ond cotch slitch seom
ollowonce to interfocing. Cotch stitch outer edges of interfocing to

\C::t:::::?/
collor.

81
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4. Мochine stitch center Ьосk 5. Hond Ьoste on roll line
seom ollowonces flot !/4. lrom Ьorely cotching outer fobric.
well of seom. This odds extro
body to center Ьосk.

't�J:::7l
6. Sho pe under collor oround pressing
hom Ьу pinning collor lo hom ond
._ 7sP

.!
1

steoming. Let collar cool ond dry before 11

moving.

-
7. Now is the time fO( "ТV-time" stitches. Hond pad stitch stond of
collor with tiny stitches in оп up ond down direction, storting ot center
Ьосk ond wo,lcing toword O<Jtside edges. Pod stitch foll of collor
porollel to roll line storting ot center Ьоd< on Ьoth sides. Use tiny stitches
neor roll line ond lorger ones os you move toword outer edges.

1011_

8. Curve collor over yoor 9. Curve collor over your

hond while stitching to Cfeate hond while stitching lo I to
о curve at roll line. e:reote о pennonent c1.,1Ve
oround your nec\c.

Easy Machine Method

Under collar -
1. Follow instf'uclions 1 lhrough 6 in Custom /v\ethod.

82
Файл предоставлен группой vk.com/knigi_vikroiki
2. Мochine podstitch verlicolly in stond ond horizonotolly in foll of
collor using 12 stttches per inch. (You moy use the "three-,step" zig-209
on the foll of the collor.)

Easiest FusiЫe Method

Upper Collor (Optiono� - Eilner glve о, Ьо,tе undedining о, in cus­
tom collor, or fuse о lightweight fusible to uррег collor.

Under Collor
1. Fuse interfocing to eoch holf of under oollor. Troce or pencil mori<
roll line on interfocing.

NОТЕ: tf using о woven fusiЫe, cut interfocing on Ьios. lf using о

i
nonwoven fusiЬle, cut interfocing with strelc:h go ng oround rыкk.

2. For extro Ьоdу in the stond oreo, cut onother рiесв of intetfocing
the some shope os collor stond. Trim ¼" smoller olong roll line to ollow
for mote occurote collor roll. Trim ½" off lower edge. Fuse to stond

7
below roll line ofter ce.,ter Ьое:k seom is stitched, trimmed, ond pressed
open.

\ .;;&; .,
extro interfoci ng in stond
i,
\roll IW'le

З. Pin ,о pres:sing ham ond steom roll line os in Custom tЛethod.

83
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Файл предоставлен группой vk.com/knigi_vikroiki
The Pieces: Sleeves
The "Eosiest" sleeve is о one piece sleeve with on undercrm secm,
but о one or two piece sleeve with о vent is troditionol ir toilored
jockets. However, we heor screoms of frustrotion coming from the
sewing room from those trying to get о professional vent finish. Our
onswer? Try the some mitering ted,nique {stolen from mensweor
monufoctvrersQ used fог the Ьосk vent, see poge 79.
We rocommend checking the sleeve length юverol times:
1. Before cutting. Мeosure the sleeve ond comporc it t o о ;ockef in
your closet. Becouse of foshion voriotions in the sleeve сор (gothets,
pleots, or tucks) which couses о chonge in the ,l,ovldeг -мdth, meosuring
the sleeve from top to hem is no longer 0<:curote. Use the underonn
meoSUf'�nt insteod.
2. Ouring ti� fitting. (See poge 44.) Тhis is о very occurole way to
judge sleeve length.
З. Вefore mitering the vent. Stitch unvented front sleeve !eom. Pin
sleeve to jocket ot underorm ond shoulder onty. Wrop sleeve oround
wrist ond moke sure hem fold line is ot your wrist Ьone. lf not, move hem
fold mori<ing until length is coffect.
, ,, ... ...
.. ... ,
''
Cu"ing ond Мorking /
,
, '
'
1. Мost vented sleeve �" '-с

,,'
1
po«ems look like this one. То '

miter vent, upper sl<нh'e vent .. � _..... ,'

1 , 1
extension edge should Ье filled 1

:�
1
in to end ot sleeve hein edge,
os illustroted. 1
''
,
1
2. Cut sleeves. 5"ip notches,
' ''
1
1
underonn dots, ond shouldeг 1 ' •
1

,''
dot ot top of upper ,leeve. 1
Also snip hem folds. 1 uwe<
sleeve

NOTE: Did you know thot one notch olways meons FRONT of
sle;,ve ond two notches olwoys meon ВАСК of sleeve1

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Sew Sleeve
Glue undetlining (if using one)
in ploce on oll Ьut hem edges

�-·
Ьefore sewing sleeve.
1. Sew side fron1 seom. Pтess upper
open.
2. Мochine Ьaste 2 rows ocross

___
lop of sleeve, nolch 10 notch, one
r ow on ¾ ond one on ¾", or one
row on ½" and one row on ¾"
{¾" row will Ье removed loler, soo
poge 89). /
�___, ___,
З. Trim seom in h,em oreo 10 ¼ . hem fold
..
snips
P"'pore Hem
1. Cut о bios strip of interfocing
(li9h1 10 medium weighl stilchoЬle,
see poge 24) 1 • wider tlюn hem
widtn.
2. Ploce inlerfocing ½" Ьelow fold
line of sleeve. Trim и· off ouler
edgeS: cotch 5titch
З. Press hern up ond creose from
snip to snip.
4. Оо о long rvnning stitch olong
fold 10 hold in1erfocing 10 hem
creose. interfocing

5. Co1ch-sti1ch top ond Ьottom of

interiocing to underlining or foshion
foЬ..ic.
6. Finish Ьonom of sleeve Ьу zig•
zoggin g if necessory.

NОП: For ""Eosiest·· metnod,

i
fuse lighl 10 medium we ght
fusiЫe inlerfocing (see poge 6)
10 foldline on hern ollowonce.
Trim owoy ½" where shown.

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Мitered Vent
The uppe,- vO(lt О11 the upper sJeeve (douЫe-notched side) moy Ье
mitered for о сlеол finish, Under vent ts rюt mitered.

1. Fold оо vent fold line, then fold

hem up. Snip comer where they
come togetner.

2. Pull fold out ond line up snips,

Тrim to ¼" from snips to comer
(see poge 79).

1
vent
fold
З. Tum nght sicles togetheг ond
sfitch ¼" seom frOf'n snips to comer.
Slosh ocross comer to eliminote
Ьulk and press seom open (,ее
poge 80).

4. Fold hem up оп underlop side

at hem sni p, right sides togethe-r,
ond stitch ¼" seom. Trim seom,
slosh ocross comer.

¼" seom on ¼" seom on

/
�n, side unccrlop side

5. Tum to inside ond press.

87
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Fini•h Sleeve
1. You con hem sleeves flat 2. Sew sleeve seom to dot.
Ьef0te sвwing second seom! Clip unde,lop side to dot.
You may pin hem ond sEIOm
and lry on for о fitti ng ot this
point.

З. Press seom open over 4. Sew 2 to 4 bunons оо

seom roll ond cotch stitch top through Ьoth loyel'S. (Smo 1,
ond sides of vents in рЮсе. clo,ely spoced bunoos are
superf)

•
о
о
о

NОТЕ: Some pottems юу to put Ьound о, nюc.hine buttonholes in

vent - ugh! l)nn,ecessory!

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Setting in а Sleeve - Method 1
1. i\Лochine Ьoste two rows of stitching from notch to notc.h over the
sleeve сор.
Pcm's Way
Ploce оое row ot
¾• from the edge
ond the other ot
¾·. Pull on ¾•
stitching only,
forming сор. ¼" 1;ne
octs onty os о firюl
stitching guide.
Susan's Woy
Place one r<YW 01 ½" from the edge ond the other 01 ¾". Pull up
Ьoth r<YWS equolly, finol sШch Ьetween easing threods ol v,·.
Remove ¾" Ьosting.
Set in sleeve Ьу pini,ing in ploce ond mochine Ьosting. Try on for fit,
odjust if 11eeded (see poge 91), permonent ,1;1ch ago;n on ¾" ond ¼".
2. Trim seom under олn to З. Alwoys p,ess sleeve сор
¼" from notd, to notch. from the inside. Do not lop•
press the сор.
р.
,,.,
:;'
,,
,,,,,,
,,
�
trim to ¼" );� с;;

4. в;о, stri ps (1½" w;de, 12•

long) of lombswool, Co,was
Unlimited, or Pellon Fleece Ьios
sШched lo the seom line of lhe strip
sleeve сор from notch to notch
over the sJeeve сор wШ fill 001
the сор ond give it the desired
,hope.

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Setting in а Sleeve - Method 11
The sound of the term "ю11ing in о sleeve" ohen mokes the
strьngest S04.JI qvolce - ond i t shouldn·1. Reod on to find out oЬout о
greot ncw woy to get о PUCKER FREE set-in slceve! We first discO'leted
it os о sure-fire woy to set in о slecvc in Ultrosuede«>.
1. Pu.-chosc ¾ yd. of Convos 2. Sleeve сор is
Unlimited or Al'mo-Rite. Cut one outomolkolly eored ond
bios strip 12" loog, 1½" wide for reody to sew into
eoch sleeve. Plocc strip on wrong ormhote. Even if sleeve is
i
s de of sleeve сор, lining up top still о blt lorge for orm•
edges. Sew 10 sleeve сор iust inside hole, odditIOnol fu llneu
¾" stitching, using 6 slitches per will � in smoothly.
inch, stn,tching Ьios to its fullest Press from inside сор to
while stitc:hing. shrink in eose.

wrong sido

З. Pin ond stitch sleeve into jocltet ormhole. Мochine Ьoste. Try on for
fit, odju<t if needed (see poge 91� Permone,,t stitch on ¾' ond reinforce
stitch on ¼". Trim seo,n ollowo11ce from notch to no1d, und� orm.

Ьios
strip

NOTE: This technique olso wо.Ь on Ыouse олd dress WEigl,t

foЬrics, simpty suЬstiMe Seoms Greot or Seoms Sover fO( Convos
Unlimitcd.

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 Fine Tune Sleeve Fit
1. Вoste sleeve into jocket
ommote using "Setting in о Sle-eve
Мethod I or 11,"
2. Try on jodcet over some weight
clothi ng you will woor under jocket.
lop center fronts. Pin, Slip shoulder
pods under jodcet. Pin in ploce.

З. Fulln.ss in the :"''°"9 ploce? lf there ore puckers or pulls, clip

_
Ьost,ng from the outsrde ond pull seom oport. Reodjust fullness until you
eliminote puckers. Some Ьodies require more front or bock sleeve
fullness. The pottem gives you оп overoge plocement of fullness, so you

'
nмt toilor this to your Ьody's speciol ne«!s.

move fvllnt$$ 1owoгd Ьосk move fullnes.s toword fr'CМ'lt

4. Тоо mud, fullneп? Tightly woven foЬ,ics, those with о permonent

press finish, а,Ю some synthetics ore тоге diHicult to eose. Si'\Ce yOUr
sleeve pottem hos Ьееn designed for on "overoge" fobric, you moy find
you have too much sleeve for too'little ormhole.
First, lry sewi ng the sleeve into the ormhole ogain - о fJller сор
will produce о Ьеиеr fit - Ь<,t if you still hove puckers, cheot!!
Remove Ьosting from notch to notch slee-ve slipped

.
over sleeve: сор. Slip sleeve ¼" further ¼"
into ormhole. Pin. Вoste ot gonnent ¼".
Now it s�1ould look beHer, but remem·
. ,,
Ьеr, you ore socrifking some eose for о �
Ьetter looking sleeve. Sometimes о
necessity!

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 .1

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Putting AII The Pieces Together
lt is Ьest to folJow generol pottem instructions when sewing о iocket
or coot together, however this is the construclion Ol"der w e think is the
ffiQ$t efficient. We hove olso irкluded some super tips most pottems just
don't hove room to show you.

1. S.w lront to Ьосk ot shoulder

ond sides. Cotch stitch shoulder ond
Sfde seoms to interfocing. (Opti01,ol
in "Eosie:st" method,)

2. Таре shoulders (unless

interfocing is included in seom for
stobility os in "Eosiel'" ond "Eosiest"
,,
methods). Cмter ½ seom tope
over shoulCIOf seom ond fell $1itch in
ploce.

\.
З. A«ach under collar to
gorment
• Clip to stoystitching.
• Sew under collor to gormcnt
from dot to dot, stitching fl'om dots
!о cenler Ьосk (СВ).
• Press sвom open over long
curve on the June ТоiЬ- Ьoord.
(See poge 36).
'"
• Trirn seom ollowonces to ¼ .
Cotch stird, in ploce if needed to
keep flot.

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 NОП: lf о з· extension WOS le/t
on the roll line twill tope (poge
62), fell stitch it to collor (Ьelow
roll line}.

4. Sew upper collar to

.
J
focings belween lo,ge dots,
stitching fтom dots to center
bock (СВ). Press seom open •
o�r long curve on June Tailor св
Ьoord, Trim seom allowonce1

\
to ¾" oi'IO cotch stitch in
ploce.

NOTE: Attoch lining unit to upper collor/focing unit now f using

the Quick lining method. (See poge 103).

5. Set sleev" into gonnent. (See poges 89, 90).

6. Attach shoulder pad,. (See poge 99).
7. Check the way the pieces fit
together.
i
Ploce upper collor/
focing un t on under
collor/gorme1,t, wrong
sides together. Hong
on о honger to see if
the lopels ond collors
foll con-ec�y. Pin
through gorge lines
to hold them in
ploce. Моkе sure
focing is the
some length os
jocket Ьottom.
lf not, trim
until even.

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8. Pin upper coflar/focing
unit to under colIOr/
gorment unit right
sides together.

NOTE: Моkе о "Toifois

81ister·· in order to get
rid of exces.s fobric in
upper collar ond upper
fopel points wnich hove
Ьееn cut Юrger to ollow
for "turn of the cloth".
Pin о ,moff tuck oЬovt
½" from point. Remove
pin ofter ovter seoms
hove Ьееn stitched.

9. Stitch outer edges together. Use 20 stitches per in<h ot off

comen ond cul'Ves where close trimming is required.
/1/tove seom ollowonces out of Nюve oll seom ollowonces
woy. Stitch fron, dot to center toword collor. Stitch from dot
Ьосk of coffor on eoch side, to Ьо�оm of jocket, tol<i,g 2
toking 2 stitches diogonoffy stitchcs diogonoffy ocross
ocross comer. comer.

------Е .. ·�·······1
'
.... .__
"'
·)···

1
1
�

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 NOTE: 5 Secrets for о Successful Tailored Collor.
1. Stitching from dots eliminotes о pucker ot notch.
2. Never stitch over the dot. ln foct, it is Ьetter to leove о tiny
hole ot the t10tch ,о it will turn withoot puckering.
3. 2 tiny stitches across comer eliminotes о dimpled point.
4. Don't ponic! After stitching 5. Trim, slash ond grode as
is completecl, there will Ье о much os possiЬle to remove Ьulk
loose oreo OOre. ю corneN will tum Ьetter.

-------·-·-,'
;
---- '"' \
!

1О. Clip to seom line at Ьо«оm of roll line ,о lopel will roll better.
11. Press all seams open over proper pressing equipmen-.
12. Tum with point turner and top press. Roll seoms to under side,
press, floНen with pounding Ыосk.
NOTE: Soop your seoms - о neot trick 10 give outside e:lges о
firm e:reose. Rub о Ьоr of lvory soop Ьetweef' seom ollowonces
Ьefore pressing. (Avoid colored, perfumecl, or deocloront soopsl)

13. Stabstitd, collar

seams together through
wells of upper ond uooer
collor seoms. (See poge
57).
СНЕАТ - 11 the upper col lor is not lorge enoogh to go over under
collor ю thot outer seoms won't show (not eoovgh .. ,urn-af-clath"
ollowonce} - slip upper collor until i t is lorge enough. Anchor ot thot
point insteod of centering under/upper collor seoms.
14. Hem jad<et (see poge 97) unless "Quick Lining" (see poge 103) .
15. Line jcкket. (5,е poge 101).
16. Hem jocl<et lining with о jump he,n. (See poge 105).
17. lf using machine buttonholes, make them now. Apply buttons
ond f;nish oll hondwo�.

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Hems

1- -- �- ---j--
1. Tum up hem ond
lightly press in о creose ��
ot hem fold line.

2. Trim oll seom

ollowonces in hem oreo
10 ¼". lrim to ¼";>
3. lntetfoce hem vsing 1he custom or eosiest method. (You mcy hove
olreody interfoced the Ьосk hem ond bock vent. See poge 77).
lnterface Hem - Custom Method
• Cut о stтip of blos interfocing (light to medium weight woven) 1"
wider lnan hem ollowonce ond long enough 10 90 oround hem cnd !ар
¼" over front interfocinQ$.

• Ploce interfocing ½" Ьeyond hem fold ond lop ¼" (Y,lf:r front
interfoci ng, Snip interfoci ng ot seoms ond slip under seom ollov.-oncм.
Boste to foshion fobric ot fold line. Ьut do not stitch tnrough to outside.
"'

11ор ¼

.... � .. . ·--�-- htmlo1d

_f- --

l- -\1 - J:;::�E
• Cotch stitch hem interfoci ng to front interfoci ng ond to garment
01 top ond Ьottom edges.

lnterface Hem - Easiest Мethod

• Cul о bios strip (cut crosswise with nonwovens) of light to medium
wetght fusiЫe intetfocing th& wtdth of lhe hem minus ½", ond long
enough to 90 oround hem ond ¼" posl front intcrfocing.

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 • Ploce interfocing next to hem fold line ond fuse to hem
allawonce.

hem fold

4. lf hem is curved,
rnochine Ьoste ¼н from .....
edge and eose hem to fit
gorment.
5. Finish hem edge if fobric is very rovelly or gorment is unlined.
Zig•zog or use о seom finish for unlined jockets os on poge 31.
6. Tum up hem ond press. Оо not press over top edge. You will get
о creose thot will show on the ootside.
7. Rernove bulk from focing oreo Ьу trimming os shown. Cotch stitch

[___[J:•й� l.JU.,.. .
hem to focings ООО interfocing os shown ond Ыind hcm rest of joclcet.
CUSTOM EASIEST

1
7. Catch s�tch front focings to
hem. lf yoor fobric is vef'y rovelly,
rvn о thin line of Froy Ch<!ck along
the facing cut edge, thon catch
stitch over edge. lf your fobric will
not rovel, don't Ьother to do
onything.
NОТЕ: А curved Ыaier•type front is handled in the same manner,
Ьut it's eo$ier thon the squore front becouse the lower edge of the
front focil\g is outomoticolty finished ofter stitching oround,
trimming, groding, "otching ond tuming lower aJrve.

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Shoulder Pads
Shoolder pods ore importool for smooth shoping in о toilored
gom,ent, ond yov dо,й hove 10 look like о footЬoll ployer in them! lf
you ore sqoore $houtder ed, just uю о thinner pod thon 1he pdtem
suggests. lf уоо con·t find the righl site you con moke your own. 1; you
hove sloping shovlders ond don't wo,11 thot droopy 1оо1<, buy о shooldcr
pod thot is thidc:er thon suggested. То level oot uneven shoulders, don't
oltet the ponem., just V$e thtCker ond thiмer pocbl
The pottem designer roises the shoulder to fit the size pod IOe
recommends. Howevel', when the designer colls for о¾" pod, she hos
roised tM shoulder only ¾"·½" sinc:e most pods will compoct. During
the first fi»in9 of уем jocket, t,y on with shoulder pod slipped in ploce.
lf pulk or drog lines oppeor, yov con chongc shoulder pod thickness, or
roise or lower the shoutder seom (see poge 46).

Wh.at the shoulCIOr pad pockoge never telt1 you!

опмоlс cdge- loyers ore stoggered cr

groded IO redvce Ьull:
nccl: cdge snip
$houlder Sl'Up

How to sew in о shoulder pod

1. Tum jockel inside out ond
рlске p<Xf оо jocket, oligning
shoulder seoms. Pod should
extend ¼"-¾" inlo
conventionol sleeve сор, ond
up to 1" into pleoted or
dorted sleeve cops. (Тhе
designer hos mode the
shoulder norтower ond
CQnsiders the wider сор pot1
of the shO<llder). P;n in ploce.

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2. Tum jocket to right side,
smooth shoulder pods in ploce
ond onchor with pins. This i.s
the or>ly woy to i""1re the pod
will fit the in�de сuм ond Ье
smooth when you weor the
jocket. Try on.

3. Tum to wrong side ond

loosely stitch pod to
interfocing (moke sure these
stitches ore invisiЫe on joc&cet
right side) ond to ormhole
seon, ollowonce. Rc.rnove pins.

Маkе 1houlder pod. the "No•Sew" woy!

Моkе yoor own shoulde, podo if,
• you wont one thot is thinner or thicker thon you con Ьuу
• you wont one thot covers о lorger oreo
• you need о cus1om·shoped pod to lill in о hollow cl,est
4
1. Cul one or more triongle of " З½"
polyester fleece, loyer os � ­
shown for your desire!d ��
thickмss.
10"
2. Ploce on fusiЫe side of о
9" х 11" loyer of Eosy-Knit. Fuse
oll edges together.
З. Trim еХСе$$ Eosy-Knit oway to
within ¼" of the Неесе. EO$y-Knit
will not rovel, so finishing is
unnecesso,y.
NOTE: For о custorn-shoped
pod, lop shoulder seomline of
jocket front ond Ьосk pottem
picc:es and drow the shope
you need. Cut ovt of Reece.
Ploce odditionol l oyers of Восk Fron1
flee<:e in ony oreo that needs
to Ье built up. Cover with
Eosy•Knit, fuse, trim to within
¼" of Пеесе.

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Lining ... Тhree Methods
1. c.,.tom - done olmosl enlirely Ьу hond, is good wilh heovy
robrics thot ore owtcword to hondfe ot the mochine. The lining fits inside
lhe jod<el Ьest with lhis melhod.
2. Ouick l.ining - о super-fost mochine method thot gi-.,e,.s greot
rewlls!
З. ComЬinotion method - gives о fosl mochine•slilched lining Ьu1
yet о custom fil in lhe shoulder oreo. Just follow Quick Lining steps bul
oltoch 1he lining sleeve to the gormenl Ьу hond.

Custom Method
1. Cut lining os shown on
poge 30.

2 Slilch dor1s ond Ьосk seom,

pre» pleot to one side ond tock
with Cr'OSS stitches Ьelow neckline.

З. Stitch oll side seoms, press орвn. Stoystitch ot ½", press undcr front,
shoulder ond neck seom ollowonces, clip ond nolch where necessory .

, ' •. '
, ' 1 \
'
,.. ,1

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4. Pin lining into Ьоdу of gal'ment Ьу lining up underorm s�ms ond
shoulder seoms.

5. Slipstilch fronls, neckline, shoulder-s. Вoste ormhole edges together,

trim lining to motch gorment ormhole.

6. Stitch sfeeve seom, press open. Eose:stitch sleeve сор, staystitch

underorm oreo.

7. Slip sleeve lining over ormhole, motch notches ond sleeve top dot.
Pull вою stitching threods until lining fits sfeeve comfortobly. Clip or
trim underorm oreo os neecfed. Slip stitch lining sleeve сор in ploce.

еэ

8. Hond •·jump hem" lining sleeves ond Ьottom (see ро9е 105).

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"Quick Lining" Method
1. AssemЫe all garment
pieces - Ьасk. front, and
,f..,ves. (Sleeves slюuld already
Ье hemmed.) Stitch under
callor ta bady af garmoot.
Оа nat hem jacket yet.

2. AssemЫe all lining pieces

- Ьасk, front, and sleev...
RememЬer sleeve and Ьаdу
underorm seom
allawances slюuld
Ье cut ¼• higher.
11 nat cut this way,
"'
stitch ¾ underonn
seom to compcnsotc.
(See page 30},

З. Assemble focing u,,it,

ottoch upper collor to
\ 7
staystitched and clipped
neckline.

NОТЕ: То add а custom touch to your

lining, Ьaste PRESHRUNK piping or
decorotive edging lo focing ¾" stitching
line. А zipper foot helps you stitc:h
clQSeSt to trim. COf'ltinue with step 4.
Voilo! о Ьeoutiful trim peel<ing out
ncxt to the lining!

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4. Sew focing/upper collor
unit to lining using ¾" seom,
ond ,topping 3-4" from Ьollom
of facing.

5. Ploce collors tighr side<

together. Pin rernoining fronl
edges together. Stitch ootside
edges 1oge1her. Ttim, loye r,
clip, nolch, ond slosh seoms
where necessory. Tum
go�nt right Sfde out.

' '
''' :'
'' i
'''
''' ''
6. Press finished gorment.
7. Hem gorment {see poge
''
• ·- \
'
•,_
97).
8. Hond "jump hem" lining
sleeves ond Ьо11оm {soo poge
105).

NOTE: Hond tock lining

ot front of ormhole to
prevo-nt focing from
creeping ot front edge.

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Hemming the Lining
"Jump" hem at iodc.et Ьottom (give.s lining moving room)
1. Моkе sure lining is cut to the length of the he�. fin;shed
gormen1.
2. Tum lining hem under until row edge motches top edge of gonnent
hem.
З. Pin in ploce oЬout 1• fгom boHom fold of lining.
4. lift hem fold ond slipstitch, cotching ooly the hem ollowonce of the
lining ond not the lini ng itself. Smooth extro length downword to fonn
"jump" or pleot. Finish slipstitching lront edges of lining to focing.

нJump" hem in а sleeve

1. Tum Ьосk Ьottom edge of
slвeve. Qt's easier to hondle like this
since sleeve is о smoll cylinder.)
2. Tum lining hem edge under ¼•

___ ....,_
ond motch row edges to top of
sleeve hem.
З. Slipstitch in ploce. А "jump"
hem ог pleot will outomoticolly Ье
creoted.

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The Goof-Proof Back Vent in а Lining
Hove you ever hod p,oЬlems liguri ng out which side ol tм lining in
the vent oreo fo cut owoyf This one is Goof-Proof!

NОТЕ: left ond right reler to when the jocket is on your Ьосk. А
vent is like о lopped zipper - it lops left over right.

''

о
1
Joc:ket '' 1

'
1
8ock 8ock 1

''
1 1
1

''
•'
1

rigl,t left ,;gi,, i loft

\. Cut lining
2. 1-Лori<. cut•owoy sec:lion (os on pottern) with trocing poper on Ьoth
boc:k pieces. Do not cvt onything out of ve,,t oreo yet.
3. Sew center Ьосk seom to lorge dot.
4. Loy lining on jocket wrong sides together. Cut owoy lelt Ьосk.

Finishing Back Vent

For on eosy•to•do, llot
look, even designers hove
decided mochinв topstitc.hing
the edges ol the under vent
is Ьest.
1. AssemЫe lining os on
poge 101 or \03.
2. Sove work - mac-hine
stitch right vent 01Ю lining
edges together (Colvin Klein
does!). (Hond slip stitch top ol
vent ond felt side.)

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Файл предоставлен группой vk.com/knigi_vikroiki
Super Touches For а Custom Lookl

Machine Buttonholes
Stondord sewing mochine Ьuttonholes ore greot in cos.uol jockets,
in <hild,en's things, ond where Ьoond buнonholes moy not Ье ·нorth the
time spent. Вound buttonholes ore trodi1ionol in dre.ssy suits 01d coots,
keyhole Ьuttonholes ore generolly used in Ыozers ond mensweor, ond
we tcnd to use mochine butt04'lholes wherever we con!
Prevent stretch in bvttonholes:
• Stobilize - "Teor-owoy·· interiocing or о potch of no stretch
interfocing stitched u11der the �ttonhole will help control stretch.
• Cord - Stitch buttonholes over cording О( о heovy-weight
threod. leove о loop ot the end.
When buttonhole is <ompleted pull
on cording ends until loop
diюppeors. With о hond sewing
needle, bring 1� <O<d ends to
wrong side. Тiе ond clip.

Keyhole Buttonholes
lf you hove о keyhoJe ottochment on your mochine, usэ it for о
sporty blozer look os designers ore doing now. OR, find о toilor -
they chorge $5 to $6 per hond keyholo bu"onhole. А Ьeouliful touch
ond wor1h every �nny!

Bound Buttonholes
Bound Ьuttonholes ore Ьeoutiful ond duroЫe ond not hord to moke
once you developo "system," We hod lo lough wt,� our ortisl PriscШo
described о Ьound Ьuttonhole - "lt's just З lines." Well, it's nct quite os
eosy os on ortist·s concept but here ore two fovorite methods.

NОП: AII horizontol oottonholes Ьegin ¼" toword edge lro,n

center fronl.

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 Morit Corefully! contor front
1
Using trocing poper Of о woter soluЫe ' '
morker ond о ruler, mork the center ond ends of
buttonhole on the interfocing side. Мochine Ьoste
on these lines through interfocing ond foshion
-t' r'
·•' '
-L �
.
-,• ..
fobric to lronsfer morkings to right side. Use о
controsting color threod for eosy•lo-see morltings.
-:- ,_'
Bound Buttonhole - Pati's Favorite Method

1. Pin Ьios strips of mokhing silk

orgonzo 1" longer thon but1onhole
ond 1 ½" wide on right side of gor•
ment, center&d over plocemenl lines. o,ganio
polch
Orgonzo doesn't need Ю motch. lt
k>tolly pre,..,, out of the woy. ''
2. Machino basto tnrough
cenler of orgonzo. (Eosiest when
done from wrong side - just
follow Ьosting lines.)
Э. Using small stitches" slitch
о re<:longle the length of tl,e

--:......-:...x..."J
bunonhole and \/•' wide (1/s' on ·;
either side of the center line). Use
tne edge ol mek>I press<!r foot os
о slitching guide. Start and stop
stitching al "Х" lo ovoid weok
corners. Check eoch rectangle -
they musl Ье on grain, the same
size, ond hove squore comers.
Remove Ьosting.
4. From wrong side trim
interfocing out of rectongle to
eliminole bulk.
5. Clip roctongle to corners. «gcnzo potich

NOTE: Clip lrom center to comer to form lorger wedges ot

eacl, end.
'
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6. Turn orgon.z.o to wrong
side to form •window.• Press.

NOTE: Ал ео,у way 10

press ...onchor o(gonzo
Ьу pinnin9 to ham.

wrong side
7. Prepare lips Ьу Ьasting
through the center of two

GE
pieces of foshion fabnc, right
sides together. Lips "1ould Ье

J
on stroight of groin unlмs
fo"1ion foЬric is ploid - then
use Ьios.

8, C.nter lips under 0tgonzo potch

window ond Ьoste in ploce.
А ,peedy method for centcring
lips is to steom Ьoste them in
place with fu>iЬle web. Cul о
piece of fusiЫe web with а
rectongle cut out of the center
the siz:e of Ьvttonhole window.
fusiЬlowoЬ

NOTE: То cul о window in the web, fold the rectongle in holf ond
clip out о piece holf the length of the Ьuttonhole ond ¼" wide.

Ploce lhe wеЬ on tiie wrong side of buttonhole cwer tiie lining patch,
"Steom Ьaste• web in place Ьу ligh�y ,teoming web un�I il Ьecomes
tocky ond odheres to orgonzo potch. (Do not touch iron to wеЫ)

9. From right 1ide1 center

lips under window ond fuse
using о press cloth. lips will
now stoy in ploce without
slipping wtiile stitching.

orgonzo potch

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10. Fold back fashion fabric,
exposing Jong sides of orgonzo
paleh. Using о zippe, foot,
slitch orgonzo to lips. Do Ьorh
long sides, then triongulor ends.
Stitch OCf0$S triongle severol
times to onchor, os shown. lf
уоо stik:h exadly on orgonzo
stitching, it will nol show.

NOTE: for SPEED, do the samo end of ofl 11,е bunonholes ot one
J;me continuousfy.

11. Trim and grode Ьосk side

of bunonhole. Hond colch ,�tch
lo inlerfocing. This is especiolly
impork>nt fo, bulky fabrics.

Bound Buttonhole - Susan's Favorite Method

NOTE: Alwoys moke о sample fiгst 10 te.st the fashion fobric
performonce ond buffonhole siz.e {slip button through to moke
sure il fit>I)

1. Мork fobnc о, shown on page 109.

2. Cul о stnp of foЬric the lengll, о/ 11,е Ьunonhole plus 1•, ood 0Ьоu1
1 ½• wide. Strip moy Ье stroight groin or bio.s.

NOTE: А foster woy - Cut one long strip for oll buttonholes.
Snip aport as needed.

3. Co,ded bunonholes look Ье,1 in everytning Ьu1 the very heaviesl

cootings, Ьecause 11, еу don't ,trelch о, ,ink into 11,е hole. То co,d, fold
strip in holf, wrong sides together. Place small string or cording
(p,eshrunkl in 11,е fold.

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 Assemble cording/piping
oo,dng
foot or zi pper foot ю lhe need�
piping
hils jv,t nOJd 1о lhe co,d. When -- О{
foot
yov tvc:k cordвd вdge into согсJ.

r-----·----i
ing foot tvnnel ond mochine
,�tch, уоо shovld prodvce о V,•
corded piping.

4. То oid stitching ond

reduce Ьulk, trim one row
edge to the exoct width of
lhe stitched cord.
r---------,
5. Center strip over verticol Ьoscting lines on the gorment Пght $ide,
wilh short row edge ogoinst horixontol Ьosting line. Stitch, on top ol
otiginol stitching, using
о short stitch, Ьetween
the vel'ticol mor'kings.
Вockstitch ot eoch end.

6. Ploce row edge о/ second strip ogoinst the first strip row cdge. The
two untrimmed edges now form о "tent.'' Look for the tent! Stitch оп
top of originol
stitching Ьetween
verticol mor\ings.

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7. From wrong side,
clip on Х throvgh oll
l ayers except
Ьutton/,ole strips. ---,�--�­
�
1 1

8, Tum strips to
i,1side - tug lightly on
strips to stroigh1en lips
ond comer.. Fold Ьасk 1
fosl,ion foЬ,ic exposing
1
- ••.
,._/

"'---
1

, ..
ends. ..
�--
9. Stitch triongle ends 1
os shown. 1
10. Finish facing os shown on page 114.

Buttons
Scwing on Ьuttons wilh о shonk is especially impor1ont in toiloring
due to the Ьulk of the foЬ,ic.

• Sew button on over о

toathpick.

• Remove toothpid< ond

wrop thread 5-10 times oround
shank. Клоt.

• Use о cleor plostic

Ьac;king butta,, lo, odded
str&ngth. Ьoding Ьutron

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Easy Finish in а Facing for а Bound Buttonhole
1. Pin focing in ploce
smoothfy over the Ьосk of
buftonholes.

2. Put blos strips of or gonzo

on right side of focing over
Ьunonhole oreo. (Do this Ьу
"feel" from right side of gormenl
ond uМt 2"' х З" piete.s of
orgonzo lo make sure they
cover bu·ttonhole oreo.)

З. Stic:k p i ns slroight down

through ends of buftonholes.

.4. Drow о pencil line on

orgonzo pok:h from pin to pin.
This marb the center of the
bunonhofe.

5. Ploce lwo odditionol pins

ocross ends of bunonholes ond
toke n,s.t pins out.

6. Мochine Ьoste over center

line from pin Ю pin.

7. Stitch о rectongle ond clip

to comers.

8. Tum organzo pok:h to

wrong side ond pros.s.

9. Steom Ьoste о rectongle

of fusiЬ\e web to orgonzo pold,
ond fuse window in focing to
Ьосk of bunonhole. Or,
slipstitch orgonzo potch to Ьосk
of bunonhole.

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Super-Duper DouЫe Welt Pocket
1. This is о douЫe welt (often 2. lf you could ,ее
placed on о slont on о jocket for о through the jocke, you
more slimming effec-t). Notice welt would see the pocket
ends ore stroight groin. Slip о lined linin,g ot the some ongle
pocket flop into о welt ond it os yoor hond going in.
Ьecomes о troditionol Aapped
mensweor type douЫe welt pocket.
Pocket flop ends а,е olso stroight
groin.

lnstnкtions (for eoch stondord 6" pocket)

1. Welt - cut о rectongle of
з· wide ond s··
fs· !з·
fo,hion fobric
long. (For pocket witnout Аор,
cut 2 of these for eoch pocket.)
2. Lining - cut о pie<:e of
Hni ng for pocket s··wide ond 15-
18" long. Sew wrong side of welt
piece to right side of lining,
welt/lining 1$"-
1no1chin9 top raw edges, Stitch.
piecc 18"
Zig-zog over lower row edge os
,hown. (For pocket without Аор,

------
stitch se<:ond foshion foЬtic
rectongle to opposite eod.)
З. Pellon stabllizer - cut о
.8 {�thout
pieco of Feotherweigl,t Pellon llop onlyJ
(not fusiЬle) the some size os the
welt. Pellon
]
4. Pencil 2 porollel lines the length
of the Pellon, cente,ed, ½" opon. pe1'1Cil lines

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5. Оп wrong side of 6. Оп wrong side of
jacket, mork pocket plocement jocket, ploce Pelloo piece.
lines. Encl lines should Ье оо Drow end lines on Pellon ot
stroight of groin. (AII illus· plocement moti<ings on jocket,
trotions will show pocket with forming о "Ьох". Stitch ·нith
flop) smoll stitches oround Ьох. Stort
i,,
ood stop stitching center of
poclcet ot Х, not 01 о corner.
Pc:llon

wrong side

!,,
1 ,, ,, -
. ....... ,,.. .. r
,,
"\,,,,,, ,,. 1

wrong side

NОП: AII future permonent slitching will Ье on the Pellon Ьох

stitching lines, dом from the wrong side.

7, Оп right side of jocket, 8. From wrong side, stitch

center welt/tini ng pie<e over on top of stitchil)Q lines on
i,,
stroight line:s. Pin ploce. long sides of Ьох only, stop ot
ends. Corefully Ьockslilch on
top of lost stitch.

\
\

w,ong---� d
- -.-.
�

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9. From wrong side,
moke 2 rows of Ьosting
slilches ¼" оЬоvе ond
below the Ьох through
oll loyer,.

NOTE: Bosting lines

ore olwoys holf the wrong side
widlh of stitched
Ьох.

1 О. From right ,ide,

fold pocket up firmly
ogoinst Ьosting line,
press, pin in ploce.
From wrong sido,
stitch ogoin on lower
1009 side of Pelloo Ьох
- just follow previous
stitchi ng line ond end
exoctly ot ends or Ьох.
Вockstitch corefully. This
will creote the "welt".

From Пght side this

is whot you will see ofter
stitching.

11. On right side, fold

upper por1 of welt down,
pre:ss ond pin. From
wrong side, stitch on
upper line of Ьох.
Вockstitch ot end core­
fully.

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12. From right side of
jcкket, slosh entire length
ol welts. 00 NOT t1Jt
through to jocket yet.
Remove Ьosting threods.

right side

j
13. From wrong side of
iocket, cut through center of
Ьох to ¾• from end. Cut to
col'nel' ro middle of lost sritch.
Put your finger undemeoth os
о guide to moke sure you
don't cut the welts.

14. Pull eve,ything through to 15. Моkе flop (see poge 120}.
wroog sides. Press. From right side, slip Пор into
opening.

wrong side

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16. On wrong sidc, pin 17. On wrong side, s1itch
pockol Пор to _,, only. flop 10 top welt.

18. On wrong side, Ь..i,19 19. жure triongles ot ends of

lining up ond stitch ocross top welt. S�tch sides ond Ьottom
welt Q(I preYIOUS stirching line. of p,xket os shown. Во,tе
p,xket closed to prevent ony
strele:h fro,n occurring curing
iocket conslruclion.

ffi
ц
1 ,.

NOTE: S1itch pockets witl, о round Ьottom 10 prevoot lint from

collecting! Pockets moy Ье shonened Ьу stitching across Ьottom.

119
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Pocket Flap
NOTE: lt is Ьest k> cut о ploid Нор ofter welt opening is ,rode.
ll's eosier to match.

1. Cut Аор.
2. Fuse lightweight fusiЬle interlocing to wrong side of Аор.
З. Cul lining - trim 1/s"' off outer edges so lining won't S"IOW on
finished Нор.
4. Pin pocket ond lining right sides
:-о
.
'
О-'
toget'1er. Моkе sur• edges mak:h. (Тhere
will Ье о bubble in the pocket fobric.) ',.,,. lining

1
•
:

Using 20 s�lches per inch lю you con 1 _____\

,_____ ___ ...
lrim clo$e}, stitc.h lining to pocket.

5. Pink seom ollowonce to Ve•

(ог trim Ю 1/4""1 nok:hing comers).
lining

6. Тum ond рrея.

l!ning pulls to inside

so it won't s.how

s.nip
Tailored Patch Pocket ,._______,....-motk

1. Snip-mork cut-on focing fokJ line.

2. Fuse inlerfocing Ю wrong side of
pocket Ьelow focing fold line.

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З. Fold facing to wrong side ot snips, Pre.ss, then unfold 1О ottoch

.-------·
lining.

4. Sew lining to pockel focing, right

$ides togelher, t-Лochine Ьoste for 2" ot
center. (Lo1er, dip lhe Ьosting to creote
on opening through wt,;,ch to tum the
pocket.J

S. Trim 1А1•• off outer edses of lining,

topering to seom. This mokes lining loper
smoller .ю it will ptJII to inside of tомюm
�n;shed pocke! ond nol show.
lining
'
6. Fold poc ,ket o t snips, right sides
together. Мo1th oll oulef edgc, ond p;n
in ploce using lots of pins. There will Ье
о "'ЬuЬЫе• in the pcкket since lining is
smoiler.
,-
7. Stitch around pockot using smoll
'
1
',-
l1ning
stitches.

------· "'
;:,, I 1 1 \ ")'

8. Press lining seom ollowonc&s

toword cenler of poc�et so il wiП turn
ь....,.
9. Trim, gl'Ode, notch, and slosh
comers os nocessory, or pink oround
poclcet close to seom line.

10. Clip opening ond turn pockel k> right side. Press

11. Slip а pieco of fusiЫe web into the opening on wrong side
ond rv,•.
12. Steom bosto pocket t o jacket with strips of fvsiЬle web. Slip stitch
;n ploco Ьу folcf;ng jocкet Ьосk ond co1ch;ng under edg• of pockel.

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Topstitching-Even You Сап Do lt
Topstitching Edge stitching
----------}ol ong
___________ }х· edge

Threod: Topstitchiog threod (silk or polyester Ьuttonhole twistj giV1>s

о more imponont-kюking slitch, ond is generol}y used in the needle.
Or, use 2 stronds of sewing threod in top thгeoding going t,rough
some needle hole.
Needles: Тhе lorger the threod, the lorger the needle must Ье. Use
16-18 (Europeon 100-110). То solve skipped sHlch problems, try о top­
slitching needle ond stitch slowty.
Slilch longth: А longer stitch (8 slitches/inch) shows up Ьener -
smoll stitches Ьury themselves in heovier fobrics.

4 Ways to Stitch Straight and Evon:

pres.set foot throol plote topstilching tope
-+-,guid�
''

Topstitch а Ыazer notch

os shown. Pivot ot gorge line,
stitch for 2..З stitches in the well
of the gorge line seom.

1---- 1011 fine

NOTE: А Ьlozer lopel lolds 10 the out,ide,
so wf1en using topstitching threod, stitc.h on iod<••
riфt
uppe, collor ond focing, slOp 01 roll line,
tie ond bury threods. Flip jockel over ond side
continoo stitching on jocket nght side.

Tic and bury lhroads: Pull all threods to

wrong side, knot. Touch knol with о dob of о $eom
seolonl (Fray Check'; fray No Моrе1 for extro
hold. Threod oll ends through о large еуе needle,
,lip needle inlo seom oflowonce ond bury threads. underяdo of lapol
Clip 1hroads close to fabric at loast 1 • from knot. ot Joll lin6

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-

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Men's Tailoring -
The "Easiest" Method
Our Ьest odvke: Since men 's toiloring is somewhot different thon
women's, tel1 him (ond yourselfl) thot the first jocket will prolx,Ьly Ье о
disoster, Ьut pleose Ье potient! Then if this first project is о rousing
success it will Ье о Ьonvs for 011! RememЬer it tokes proctice sewing for
о Ьоdу - yours or onyone elses.
Мen's jockets ore different thon women's in the following
constrvction techni�:
1. The entire fтont is usuolly interfooed with о weh fusiЫe.
2. Exlro loyers of interfocing ore plocecl in the fтont che,t ond shoulder
oreo. These con include polyesler Reece.
З. Buttonholcs ore mode in the loft fтonl,
4. Нond keyhole or mochine mode buttonholes ore usecl.
5. Тhе jocket Ьосk is softer, rorely underlined, ond ohen jusl portiolly
lined,
Fobrics - Wool 1weed is the Ьest choice for о first men.sweor project,
os il is olwoys foshion-right, but i.s simple k) s.ew, and o&en reosonoble
in price (see No foil Fobrics, poge 16 for other choices).
Ро� decided to only moke Ultrosuede• jockei. for hor husЬond, os
thot is whot he oppreciotes mosl, ond Ultrosuede is the eosieP k) sew.
Front lnterfocing - Fuse occording
to monufocturer's instructions. 1·

Ches-1 Pie-ce - Cut ex1ro loyers of

fvsiЬle interfocing on blos os �own,
ond fuse in ploce1 one ot о time.
Bock - Stitchoble interfocing is in
two piec:es fat give.

front
inlerfocing

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 Collar - Use tt,;,
professiot"IOI 1oilor's trid<: to
propetly shape and shrink roll
linв of the undcr collor. Set
mochine stitch to о very short
lengtl, - 18 stitches per ;nch. As
you stitch on roll line, stretch the
collor oway from the roll l;ne Ьу
puШng w;th Ьoth hands. This will
shrink the roll line. The colJor wilf
nat lie flot, Ьut will fold on the
rofl line ond outomotically stond.

Sleevм - EIЬows seem to Ье the first рЮсе to weor ovt in mos1

fobrks. Cut оп ovol of fv$iЬle knit interiocing with pinking $heors (to
camovfloge the edges). Centcr over elЬow orea (ti.uue 1;1 II09• 44 to
find correct plocement) ond fuse in ploce.

о
Pockets - Use the Super Duper DouЫe Welt Pocket inst vct;on,
from poge 115 in ploce of Ьо1h the inside ond outside pocket
instrucliOt\$ from most poltems - this rnethod will Ье eosiei"I Use the
'<w;thout flop" instructions for inside pockets ond sew os mony of them
os you hove timc to moke. Мosl men reolty oppreciote odditioncl iNide
packet<.

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lndex
Alterotions 4$,49 foЬrics 16•19
Altemo1e fvsing methods 71 ;nм's 1'24
A»eti'IЬling gorment 9З preihriМ: 4\
$el�tion 11, 16
8o<k sewinglshoping tips 11.19
ol1emo1e custom 71, Fell slilch 56. S,
custom 73
eosy/eosier 75 Fil
eo!.iesl 76 olterotions 45.49
fitting 43, 49 001tlinc 46, 47
che<k.points 44
�...el.rtg 54 eose 4'2, 43
81nd hнn 57
i eliminoti1'g fit1ing os yov � 49
Sulk, 53, 5-4, 96
8ustline fi1 .с.с, 1,7 Hol pot1em meosurw'IQ 45
8vttonholes 12, 2.S lengrh 14, «
Ьо.,,d 61, 108-113 polletn size 4'2
c0tded 108 ihoulckf- 46
foc,ing fll'lish for 114 deeve ••. 48, 91
keyholto 108 тrying on pottem 43
moc:hiм 96, 108 Fron1s
tklltons 113 custom 60
eosier 68
Coic;h s.titch 57, 93, 97, 98 eo,ie,1 70
CheJt pi,ece,mer1's 124 ...., 65
С1орр" 3S, 38 men's 1'24
Col&or Fus.ible intf!nocing 9, 16, '23-26
ottQChtng 9З
CVSlom 8\ Groding 53, 54
cutting 50 Groin line 44, 50

....,,
eosiw 83 Нoir СОАУО} 9, "J.4, Sf!, 60, 64
eosy 82 Нот, preuing 3S. 39 8'2
men·s 125
�ets 10 wcc.ess 96 "-"IOtn 97, 9$
toping foll line 62, 94 eosiest 97, 98
'tum of cloth" 55 1;nw,g ['jump") 10S
Custom 101\oOOQ 9, 56, 58, 60, 73, 8t. 101 fn1crfoci119 77, 97, 9'8
Cullit'\Q sleevм 86--88, 105
coltor 52 stitches 51
interfocing 17 Hong 'Кong seom finii.'-1 31
lining-with polletn Э0 lntcnoc;ng 2 1 2- 7
lining-wi1hou1 p:ittem 31 co,du,ay 16. 18, ?S
Oor1s Culling '21
bustline ""· 46 dor1s SЗ, 61
intetfocing 53, 61 elimif'Ot1ng Ьulk 53
pr�i.ing 39 fvsiЫe 9. 16, 27
underfining 61 fvsing hint, '23,26
DоУЫе wel1 poclteт ll5,t20 hem 77, 91, 93
Ease 42, 43 mов· 5'2
Eosie.- toiloring 9, 58, 68, 75 men'�st pi,ece 124
Eosiмt toiloring 9, 12, 16, 56, 58. 70. 71, 83 pre$Мnk '26, 41
Eosing �ove hem 86
hem 9'8 stitchoЫ.c 9, 23. 27
sleeve сор 89, 90 rips fo, vori� fo�s 17,19
Eosy 1oil0ting 9, 58, 6$, 75, 82 wcight chort 2•
fi9h1 Нour 81oter 9, 12, 70, 71 ' 76' 83' 86. where to interfoce 22
97, 103, 12, lnteflil'li.ng '21, 28
""Jump" hem 96, 102, 104, 105

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Lopel 7i Shoolcж pods 7
pod st tching S6 cvstom 100
pressing in roll 63, fi!, 70 lilling 43, 91
toping 5,с no• ·se w 100
"tum of cloth'" 50, S5 sewing in 99, 100
Lint ng 7, t4, 21 Shoulder fit 44, 46, 91
co,nblnotion method 101 S.zc, pollem 42
custom linin9 101-102 Sleevos
cvtting tips ЭО wtti,,g 8S
foЬrio 29 е!Ьоw reinforc�m.et1t 125
f.-ii0ing Ьосk vtnt 106 fit 44, 48, 91
goof,proof Ьоо: vcn.t 106 mot\.i\g 85
hemming 105 men'$ 125
lining on unlined jocke1 31 mitered ven1 85, 87, 88
piping 103 s,et1ing in 89, 90
pleol 30 shoping сор 7, 89, 90
pocke1 ond Rop 120, 121 stip stitch 57
p,eihrinking 41 Sn,.p n'IOOing 51, 60, 121
<!'lkk l�ing ЭО, 103, 10-4 SоЬо glue ?'1, 61, 64, 66, 69, 81
S1ob �itch 57, 96
Мorking 51, 52 $1оу slitch 49, 60, 66
Мcin's toiklting 124, 125 Stitches, hond 56, 57
Notions ЭЭ. � Swoy Ьо<k <9
Pod stltch 56 Toikl,- Ьos1ing
collor 82, 83 hond 56, 62
lo�I 63 mochine 66
Pottem selection 13, 14 Toilor boord 36
Pipit19 lining 103 ToiIOr'i Ыister 95
Podtets Toilo,ing
douЬI• welt 115,1'20 odvon1oges о1 8
�·, 125 metl\Ods 9, S8
potch 121 letm$ 7
Point p,csser/poundtng Ыосk 35, 38 Toi\oring 1ime dюrt S8
P,eshrink Тoping $4, 55
fostмon foЬtic 41 collor roll linc 62, 94
interfocing 26, 41 r,ont ond neck ес:1� 55, t-3
lini ng 41 rO,I linc 7. 8, 54, 61, 67
Ptou Мill 36 � тoping 64, 66-69
Pres.sing Tiuue fitting 43. 44
eoHor roll 82 TopstitchW\Q 12'2
doni- 39 т,,mming 53, $4, 96
<ЮО" З8 "Turn or cfQтh" 50, 55
encloиd teCltnS 38
equipmqnt 35, 36 Ltndettlini,щ 9, 21, 22, 60, 65 68, 75, 81
lopel roll 63, 67, 70 Unlined jQCket seOl'l'I fi"i!Мs 31
seatns 36-38 Ve-fvoЬoord 36
Oui ck lining ЭО. 94, 103 Ve-111,. lxкk
Fini$hing 106
ltoll line 7 in1erfocing 71
collor 62, 81, 82. 94 lining 106
goposis 48 mili:tti ng 79, 80
lopel 63, 67, 70 мwi ng 78
men·s collor 1'2$ Vents, sfeeve 85•88
pc11«n morlting 1•, 52
roping 54 WatdroЬe ploмing 11
Welt poclcet HS
Seom rotl 35
Shoping foЬtics 21,31

127
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Now tailoring is easier than ever...as easy as YOU
want it to Ье. Learn four different tailoring methods,
easy fit tips and а wonderful, timesaving machine lining
technique from noted fashion-sewing authorities
Pati Palmer and Susan Pletsch. They have designed for
Vogue Patterns and now for The McCall Pattern Co11pany,
where Pati is known as Тlre Fit Expert.

What is tailorlng? lts а method of sewing that makes

а garment more duraЫe than traditional dressmaking.
Traditional techniques сап mean hours of
handsewing...with beautiful results. And there are
easier ways to achieve а professional,looking tailored
Ыazer, coat or jacket. New fusiЫe interfacings cut hours
off а project. Pati and Susan's fitting, cutting, shaping,
pressing and sewing tips save even more time.
lt's even possiЫe to make а Ыazer in 8 hours!

.IJIШ1111
Файл предоставлен группой vk.com/knigi_vikroiki