THE: “TAILOR & CUTTER” Academy System, . CUTTING ALL KINDS OF “TAILOR-MADE GARMENTS. PART V. Deatng withthe Cutting of Chestetielis, Raelans, UI dll nds of Overcoat, inluiing tose Worn by Naval and Miltary Officers, very Servant 8c. LONDON : Pabished by The John Willamson Co, Lid, 2, Gerrard Steet, W.Index of Contents. egw Spt apn Shave Bar poe Cig Ute yaaa REECE ESOC SSE RA HE LER SERRE REEBENEEigen ace Mae Oro Sen (Cat tha Wing Suman ih ss ‘he Ou eye at tress Da BeSBSRSRRERRSECESEREEE INDEX OF CONTENTS. Tele Orr pice lay Bey Orage as Redeeeesteeceesaeneeues The Tailor and Cutter Academy SYSTEM OF CUTTING All Kinds of Overcoats, cont forms the adja ef this Par, ts toyironevatal daptatons fro log Bint thy roi to be quite nse larger teeta them te ovr the uneven ‘Thay aque sitions ongth of fou ‘uaoatat on te bing wp Uitte of the mydernat My reader wil a once recognise the diference bal ck aj Loe rondo a 1m the fore eat te sun ference Ieogt, frost sng i * re unally provided wi rl, eres havo Leet war and sighly ha Tum Measures, ‘Tawar to mato of taking the cea ‘Tha ono isto tabs than verte Sart Proviso for Ite gang ove the wate “he end it fee Hee ne, Either methat will wove mecectal vat nly at the my ia nd bp en calling.SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS, 8 2 THE TAILOK AND CUTTER ACADEMY ‘The simple s 1 Nape to mataral waist, T Wo 3 2, Napo to fit length to 4 8 Wi of ack Qa, B to 6 A Continue 1 elon, rn for an ovreosh ip ‘on oppostssido, 10 (Pig) "The Front shoghl ie a at frat, pat 31 (ig 9) Carnfily evil any lenenen, or, in eter word, beep sve Tathot 10 the tight side “Tow overatouler i take Team depth of sey on bac, S. over it ai down to the baton of rent of aye thr slay. {om nape pint, , to elton of s3e DmUncr WEABORES. (PIG, 9).°5') cin a tet i cance: Enna a Salas to th auivaneta af the fut, andshaie ta igh spa aon, nd brig the the ent of ack. “They then sud mansare wr above plan soars the mont cyan seer but th a the are eat Aesmplte tal ‘loa up te the am it come ‘OPEN Thaw mabe 9 en, i lace theee ee ee ee SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS, 5 {THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY ‘Tua: svorene ear sant ib thet fr padi ‘Chatarald sage by sage pixgRaM 1. cum peers, ~ dio je raw construction line 0, 4 0 tS euethind depth of ye ay 8 fo 8 tho cpt of wy 0,6 UH the natura tags po 111028) inchen moro ak a © te 40} tha fa ing of eat rue ple Yor tor mn Diagn 2. Tim wipens; Prim +h aca te tne es tom pipe 3, ny Tepe Hit ln 0 tenant of the eae ‘Bouin etme eb we gine Sian safes ek 7 3 it it ah aaa atsahe, ao FAH aug Ut patie, 7 rue ae - pa Se ce Taped is eee a, : Hen aT, tata sna Dusanan nts sean, Setanta in Oty pala 3, apelin ay eto ing fram © though 3, y ei orf Ys a bree bel pe Sh Ea Drew ate uring dora mgt6 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY Drop | inch a 14, and guard aright angle to ot round ‘edo fh rough 114 to 13, trminating it 4 inches teow ‘Draw de best line trom 21 though 22 DisoRam 4. Tue siovuDRns ~~~! Aad fing and by we’ 3 ning D at pivot; add 1 och f thio nad snap tere tote tno wyimant intact loa m 5 Huse tom F te. Dc rm th ovr aac: nite; sido its ate D to ght and eaten ‘The wi of theft oid @ Ha Ye te a ik rina Gini wy ; Ge amt of ha eat a ate eit Jee DIAGRAMS. "TUE FROW? RDGE~ Por put, add 08 2 uch. Shpe tpl to tala or Bu ,"240 on 3 lathen gon et nao Sb? ton ia : oon ‘he stateve varie oes iin unital What they should be ew in i 4 ae of th aye, sa tho sequent Drsoraney, SE of th nt up from the moat forward pla, One ad Toto {hin Seowidetarany vata 7 boa the wit of he fully widersaod Ut tha back ony We cu der ial emerson io made inte et & the seo, Tatilads allowable In his, evel SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS.- 7Ly ee ee 8 THE TAWLOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY ‘chau taken from A to i applied lo Diagrain 2, a i ‘Deww tne at right anglo, and make the point from A to Bas shown DIAGRAM, TIKE BALANCE oF SLEBYE, ra mak tho hind snd foram pishen in the eyo; the back. lly pice aout senna the bl cas ble ‘calle tho font pitti ftaad i. pom the beat hae, Ts Gder te faitate th bales, i may bo wall to ack pigs ts, aa, Leping the piss pig. : ca aed on ingram 3, ling tar low te han of ea re fora 4 dln pos thd esate from iy. rated ou Dingo "jaallyaeshowa oo to and 0 to ¥, i ft rogud a Yyand about int, anda forme a si he "Neat apply th lug of sleeve requted, ft deducting the width st ack ttn eto shoe ting Tittle cat af th reaps 2 ich, 18 ude wo wold nga DIAGRAM 4. THE UNDERSIDE aLERVE, Meare wd the sae we rat 8. Apply thie guactity as Hvateied by Diageam 9. stow tho drsde ate abot 1 Yach e a i s).- ‘SYS1EM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. 910 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY FLY-PRonT cuesrenenn, ek Mier fin lager, aco cea, ‘het, wis ad pay ide derpened sivontobotam of desu aor ct in wide THE syste, liao © 39, 0 23 | Ota af exoehird dept of sxe ‘ | Ot ef aipeh at age 0 10 17 satural wai plan fn, 17 to 26D inci moro la ncording to Case nd lngth of gee fakes plus fin, ero uae, lacing’ om Sica ia ‘by swooping by this quantity from 12) to C, and ‘waking seand weegp Tro IBY, adding Tae wo te fees ee tity 7 Mawate up frm 12) t» B the ov of he ck,” 0 fi los Un tna ‘Shape tye a shown sinking i fin: tlaw dp of ay tne aa eto back a ea of sight ine © to 40. ' ead go spring hy an droping iit hy fab th a Aw th ur am” kit ata eh i aba12 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY i terminate Ay about 8 inca ig longer from wala line ths or dyfront, ald on 2 alow wait ‘Shap lapel to last, haaping wall wp a Freud ‘io plenty of lngth tothe fll ge of eller. supers ov MAKING. “Thre stop athe marking ‘ov ant enue ascuecy Tian of te saa n ‘wedding pot throng won Pig th ora ei scfm tha pockacanuth, snd up int the ge Page 18 shows tin te addon a SHAM PIvISHIES, plain bean: thine shown by, wh atest hehe Gnied’ thors the sewing ‘gos and iatrate th Sie 0 ‘read open. ae the singled rad seam‘THE TAILOR AND CUFTER ACADEMY ~sereBeenes | rearvoot on Fee EE ng te16 THE TAILO® AND CUTTER ACADEMY comrULENT cuBerERFIELD. DIAGRAM 255, 1 eating Chostarld for a vary conpulnt gare, the sane trl plan is flowed; but he otra. sof tha wan cnuna a= cous af drapery to seein font, unene apedalpreein to prevent sine. This is done by eating nway th fren ow the walt, and working It up wall, wad by tating at bor nal yee aero the pocket mouth Hthe posh inetd Sartell, by drawing th font odgo of the pockat moult and et we ak the followings Monneres 0, 33, omothed depth 011, dopth of sy0, 0, 25, natural wait eg 14 18h, 40, 9, 21,39, 14.17, 38, 0,64 10, 28, 9 incl ae ©, tt tog, pl two sane Tallow buco fn, mack out ab 25, 1 Oto ty, oooh bret 5, 1, wid of bs, pla ach, Wa inh, anefooth Uo. hen fon Io} 1) on we ie nas wi shold bo 4 inchs la than shes OF, 8 Sacha, which gente tin a il, and hn spr oe a i peo ar fa # 1 ‘Squat ine from 124 to 288 by 224, 12h lo 16h by mooring Dac the arnt assur, pl J ocala point by aqua oe weep a at \ od ieonenath brent oe} thor by ” aap ee lao ltr ie Then Uroght evr to Hy ad the he shape fe Disgrain 297, poste in Ube garment fn Uhreesnm gurmoni for ox In cuing the sare seid suite up toe pray aun "Tice sould tt ‘The sae aul net hang oo forved tt ne pro mut he wad engi ning a te "The ound on the ‘rk ab mat bu rae’ fad pred back ‘overt regan ofthe pominance i. "The fy terminatn shout acon below waa ineSYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS 19 ‘Te Gro, 8.0. cHEstERPIELD BysrEn, ia Yates Madi uing overcoat to jot blow vie es a fat ee A fed weak turn; hace moa st over vat 3, of ek 7, stbow 10}, fal le 124 ever‘ i. ‘To thaw mentor fs adie to th nero chant, tn sto fn. to the eros baa, : ‘Tue svarene sila Lo Uae point, Oto 3 ono twelfth bent, : nck vets allow wai fin. and draw back Soto to apy he witha hw fn Maka wilth of back ab wait onosisth chet plus fin., and sida, and ontinna ep to the back ys te back by thane pt a ‘re vonneaner, Dacleanan to 21) half chat ple 3 incon 21] 1013) the atrns chant, wale Bom 13 swoop by tho orarshulat mosoure lw width of back sack, aguas 97 : ‘Add Inch to thin, and awoup agen from 213, and wo gb nek ‘Soap frm 19) by ty ad ae te overshoulder meters lof 1a" A of tho tial fhe2% THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY Spyro the sdswam Yin. to 1 inch, and from this paint mack forward, aud drop I to If aad daw ihe iw of tre esse ight mug hi, aw shown by dottd ies ompdng sete be sldng on il found ‘Take outs Sah wer thea from fin. to 1 ine, armnating ‘at Cinches down fom he waist 4 Hs ri oc er | Ying yp to Dy which i one walt iat i Ernt of wccepolae Ge ‘DoH to taats, bat usally slout onet waite ac i Auld on 2 inchot for bttowand, sd overlap and eomplae froth Uy shaping lapel fo tute Drop the bottom fla ae fae ‘Tie suneve, Mack he pena fa indacw fice from he dor ma Forearm fin, shove dap ef spec. fer Sib ts Se i al in A to sit of toy mje Levon the pcb ib hbo setts oud, plas fat Inc ‘hui inci vonnt 0, Meseore of oogt to slow and ea, allowing iach alow forearm ink ‘i A ew oe fur roe ban fa fi ‘itt otal nosinth bras pon Te ein, Osapiia are trthonee 4 ur te undone lav menaro ern Ato 6 the a the unde seyelotwon the to char aloe nese mers ow wana, ofthe yokot ape on ie hips Ta inchn, tel it welOxl inch," Give plenty ot wil ook ena ‘ud provide ample anh to go one oe swith arp length on the al lgey Saye Mach Sees evo ining Uo the wana Uso Salt or wales eater ne ip poke” wooo ining ised, wall isk tone ‘ng, ahd 1 poole put fein sound te bat SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. 21 ‘THE CP. sac ouEsTER everen, : SPECTAL PEATURES, ‘Stenghthinging and madiunwidch sir; Aytroat; verti welt oskets; gauntlet cus] Inches dnp, and nveialyfaiced due itch lapped suson, at valet cle, ‘Tako Uw cha and waist mearurin ver the vst, and aca th ack, sleeve depth of ye, sataral wut, aero chat aid over Shoulder over jared a Gin to fins ‘THB BySTEAG Draw line © 3 and © 42) at ight angle. 0 dows to 9 ve thied of the eye dopey to 9, th 1, aataral wala length; to}, to muante taken ‘At the wast mark ot in, and draw through from O. 0 to 3 eum of chat fom which point vane, ad shape a ‘Apply to width of tack ne ahown by a ‘Spring out ia. a shader ond ‘Square down at back oye, sucking the love pitch at point 2 rom 9 to 21f ie ball chat plus 3) ince, Mark lac vo 18} the row cat, pas fin and rise 1) a sow i, adiog fin Boop O We front soaldar measure lem tbe Back techy mating 1 vot a6 134. Hor she cond sweap at Q mabe a piv ce 21% so to thin allow 1 inch” Where than mgten ats cate th eek ol Swoop from 19 by the overcldarm Dake © oI fin, lew that aw A rae guido in to 1, aad shay nye vous the point anspealng hn rola Ate 8 ve from Bi fand dope caste line et fin, a shawn A 4} fr By Son, oF 3 neha DD, bli vequre, ams trate of dl i's he eat ts ee dnt ofthe font ee tang worked ape2 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY or the sudncu, math fi from 9 to 8 SYSTEM 9P CUTTING OVERCOATS. oth of chet tow inch onal at 7, a - - i mecemary Lo add loch of found at Ue bolton Of foropert st eva ront tayo ents Sopa "Ph Torssm pit pla jn. above the lve of otto of 38 sod the hindneta sits 63 dosha down from sbaldorsat "Ph lor cut anprevioly dona oe IVS ON SCAKING, ot be ovarsmanipelaod, and al tealage he wi alan spore to dap 0 Canvas shosld peal with a i ‘Aeyars af nan sald ho thikly padded to Jno camens ai che ive the ruil le a ‘On thie diagram wo show doublet sc opuloe Sais for garment of thie dacrptign clear nso with vrtialwote ov Ulva of tha frost B2% THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY ‘THB MARRS TWEED Ac. SPECIAL FRATURES, urightenging lon back with long ait; hagey Prom cle tone to show through; large patch pockets wil fap Fougeeathor ea ‘THe aeeABURES ogra ae : Chet, waist Uuhon over va), depth of sy, t,tall Tngth, aaron heck and erey Inet heer ‘hehe, ander chat "To cach of tho theese saa j ee nie system, Draw fae 0, 4 003 onethind dapth of eye 0 8, depth of aye, © (0 T7p natural wait length pls fe Sprain roe from enh satan, '3 ouetellh uf the chet, Ivo which potut raise 3, and hap the beck ck 7 ply the whith of back ab 2 inca below shoulder spe, adng fin to veal ‘ho sy allowing 3 in a font So fe Bar an re sown an if ton eon Me ttn, td ee i ee eyond which it will bo lai, and ines for th ao Darina C26 sysren, §‘2% THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY 2 leat ian, mer fr 9.0 ‘Shure down fro hie pt fo the aide Now at buck Hef akon opt, 6h 03, end aa inch overlap in allowed from 8} I, onefourth of cast rings Vine be given Beyond IT andthe wi starts at 7 tndoe dove feta the Walt ° Trower the Uitoa of tho fropar inc, ad core the hota ods aererrs "Toca Uh poskst, draw ina lping fin. at eon at 1 chon sown ron th tes than ac hee cae of oops athe ad ow lng By 3 Hoc wid pth a tho pat 9 inches, ‘Om Diagrst 2 wo ieate th rough nant of tiscrdinnry fash tarved ap ea mado ermine at In. fon the bind “A hte ie worked though tha outer corar, and Settee ne Th ftom tobe tate Shown, nnd’ Untaged cenly round the wri sould ocnion ae Th otharrenpect it ie Enaed te the ornary thre bution syle umtg ON MAKING. = Ta wahng lan wan i aways avila so by aed where ute ull gual waned bt fort small gay at shades he hye nant om ajo and aetna eo atoveel wits aian tab forte emet ths 1S rao pow th lt calaendy oat focal ‘od tears the alte “Th patchpocketa pot on the hips sbould bo of. goa ie, and in calor ts prods a replat fr the contents they sould be dean ial ody ao form pouch ‘Pix plan af making wp, bamover, ‘sun pir oth ty, and ode Geta path tho pocket om the pret, ati efaculy pron fouying” The Kap tv Beaty. ft to feton wit load baton iti tea tine thee ] SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. 2 ‘THE PG, RAGLAN BYSTEM. SPECIAL FEATURES. rl alow knee, The fronts ato Gis 1 emee ESTnre” eral welt peat nu ihe torpor a i tn warty aga oe ts ide, aed ie seoven at cub i ora theta i ac i ih nda made ea ee et eo yep ge 4 a San veg 7 u Naw, 19; fall Bengt 17 fal na ecole ay verse 2 sa en any ane em ey vce se ee fn am ent te cto tout shonlder, ower shouldee, scrom chest and Ch etches ‘rue syste. + Dye iw at sgl angen 1 ©. Big Soashied opi of wxe O ted doth of aye Oe iinet wait long pls in 0 te tthe let yet inns at gt angles to thew pein OTs ta Best La iyiate aan dra rough fro. wae eit bak ev abown by atone, nag in tS to Uli eouie fer lg Te furthest in fom 9, and fom bere ace cnet 3 ta 5h, hal an ch "aw Girogh fon io Ty and foi bottom Pe al cn, poe 3 ike Sav est ecronchse, pl fir, Taio Uf a owe, Sine yee versie mo ete shows, iat of tack a we dat bck tas Osseo “sweep again (rum 214, and to thie add ¥ inch, and where tho enna ace he atthe nak pot ie hen nc ahulerpen 8. Jean eaen dhe nye a soa for « Cheated, caning ines Between >J re ic lope forthe fonts oe ty wbish alter genurly ate 18 face ag, bana trom 38 fa to inch, to amount of abit i dram fon Sh to mn ‘pocket, squnre down 9 acho fom Ue front of eye, and of walt Th inchan, by Ife in with ‘tome subxve, We ordinary semble, pried to deat the pia 8 aches wore an Dito "8 about halfway sora, 1 he wid of fy er from 19 ta 135 fag of lov, ually an Sac ty a Measure off lngth fom F,rgiering he elbow adolf nemure ple ia ‘han hae te wi cll nose f cha fea plas fn; and ab fi ep funda be a show, lo Bast oe head a alnon ol ‘Eh Sn tale aM fn tothe ‘Toe ine taps em pec A. Mossure J to K; ud deh3) THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY fit away, claiming that chap longer Much nds pow te ete inact tie workmen to oy su «pation arian tao inne ft cath havo Tenny bell on wih advantage i the IMTS ow MAKING, The coll ends ast be arranged to meat when tarted up and & shasld be srk Uhoroughy previue to wowing. A sit hold i ind the wale to nla the wenrer tafe oth tw SYSTEM OP CUTTING OVERCOATS at Poco ovEuaanurnT, ‘Thow blor whosdlonte favour ‘anf geng onto wil ed the inge Arye tem we he see roa hit wi this typo of garment, "Aly The he. stared by any sto owe ll thoy had adap ito Motor cols i fathew thd fara a ain se tater fot bn exch “vaitage, wo compas with dhe pai sye. Te its pletion to watrprst, beth oth rutber, isso in which He may be put togtber, tee no al dapiogof Ue clr ease que ar thew ‘thr ovrgernants (xcept forse), Bh oa lightadjntont a i {olpredace Ue roll sn, ‘The ov length ib tabon whl standing ath side of int nd meseeing Hons" aver sholer te conta nen ‘rine svsres, Dror i nt 03 i rt nr sour ues Sore ee erste ac in i Perrotta Mata i tg yatta a aes ath et Rize et ar serimara inc seyfotanad Gilani32 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY nary tne ‘THE SLERVE, the pain’ ate el, tee fc Ie on, 0 hk34 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY SIDESHAMLUSS OVERCOAT. ha shit factor in popaarsng the ‘won th Introduction of sna Chat, walt (Laon orer vat al = al wit fll loth srs bak, sore aa ‘wy cilert ote y ot 2 to 3 lop at ye ‘ top tata pes in. © te stout inca baa Tee a, orto. i sca dra Cough fo. ajar (lte3 onetwas bret ro which waht ‘tyy the wid of back a1, adding Ji. to the manure te stata, ba af fs a shouler ee apo te85 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY Now sxop agin from 21, making thin 1 iach moro than the farmer. ""Whare thas spats ater ete the tec pola ‘GoD Ain lou an He A. rae from BW 1h C10 D ouwtwallth rut, D to slr quantity Blow a inch ‘Sync down fo 21 a 22, and mask ou in. then draw through tor yt ‘Adi 2 incoe for By, which shoud bo tomate by tithing 18 toa dows from top bates ‘son gt hand om th arrange te rot post fn lngr below sna he posts put dons fem fee fy 1 bch, a sl divide the lagi of fap sacha sds oat part "Sed campltescong to th imeonon indented 104 vo bettn, Mare ON MaxRNG. 1 the anaking of thouogarmans spacial cre stb akan with he bua eye, owing to thors bag enw be ‘ith Tomomem "The serps be eacfuly sven sey over Ulan In aditon tah, tho wnderlare tte pup igh it, ad fll at athe tase he hat a eat tind ta ava arothing whan in wou, 1a he aig wil vate thi SEAMS AND srRAPPIGs ‘Agate maid fetar a he overcoats ofthe pst sang int lsblostitcal rus ware, wed with sich extant aff the ‘eada which ware s0 papa ating fof tee, inom nectwary te to alow mgood nly tn the aa ho attehing may have wo foundation, ‘a teed ht, atrsppinge vere fry wad fom in, to 2 incen wily thoy wore plant ws tha sere Taek imitate yokes ‘They wore generally eat frat the Sah ot tle mtr to that the way af the wel might anata thi SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOAT, st Din. CHESTERFIELD, MEDIUM FITTNKO. ‘The DID. Chasrtll, though ol ae pple as the Ay-frnt, il finds any pirom Aa partenyed on th dagra, iva onde hole acd, ataight sidan, fir sunt of peng evr the hy ‘good overlap in tho ont « modtaly pointed lapel, aed ied om tho edge with ping of vv "Tho poke ar bin will baits apa, Tein clan ised 4 the mainneng gt, thw ak snr tho hug ented f° an to Gre tee dightbangingapprrance "Te mod wat ot iene hata it scaiy wn Ui BD" orm font; wear rathor tating» popular soo sree tad ‘lncratng all of ene spacial fatuf in the one dng ‘When mada om Live a row bostr, pert of tie dren sre daly Syl he bso U esos the ants ax sea decd, th fw inions intcoduced bingy tellowed ‘The cline given oth ipa i mathe of tat, In onda oscar aged pointed spl of tpl, trait ever ‘he pao ie uty and hon otf canary. ls unual to provi tle opening babwens cllrand and top of irs ow MAKING, ales of gue talon, sch af rated Lob obevat ie the makinpap of ibe desler In tho anying of te apa, hopping Cage toque psa sttoation Tha piping sould bo kape saucy a6 pomey Wy Ainge te wid iy perag, tlle exes. Ie bot tll bath Uh taing and outa tothe piping at fy that wey the iin cn l'on ay wih dita i ms on ag et bt TEoaing mr Stat Tati ronal inna nahy a Ya 1 toatat the width a the ping When headgear ypd, the posh fap and pocket months fle sited1, garmuat, i very cnt dat ilaly feed, heuce Ie avataguoue to "atkig roads part who the garment iotete ay plan ie hea sony alae Teele the pai of tha bala tetecn the bre Hawt peo fs te found by using any po ofthe bres ryan ene mis ene er Es eee te Sears ces yeaa hee tence ela ae ‘THE FROCK OVERCOAT, DIAGHAMS ON PAGE AL + "To frock veesoat has be w ini The ru of Ue wai prove oppo ‘Mental ‘tithing dul st Draw line 0 194 O'S no the dpth of aye o's pt 10 te Inf mature wa pl fn Sueist i. snd draw back am as illusyated. Come out a 18{ Jn beyoed contri i40 THE TAILOR AND currer ACADEMY Draw lines at right angle to 0, 3, 9, 17) hf the bro. ace out ho Dab ron pl Hs, oF san fn to, la am sey Lin Vet of back waist 3 to 3 ne Shape dasa aa sth buon af ie Pot 2}e pvat no evar Fri tho Betton of edsaam te ‘om te pint guste worn tothe foot ‘Draw sidony ta point wo obtain, Tako out in a ‘rie vouerant, Continue tie 9 aeronto the rot. if ttn, Uy the front shouldor onan ps Weis al back, alebody dnd forapert to balms smsasure plu’) to i neh Tall wait samt at sand op Hl a font oom 1 ey and camplate a42 THE-TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY rum Lave, raat ape ani ane ore agth othe ela ee, ‘aod it at ao Be wont zt srl . ‘Draw tine HE tri, Mark back fom I fn aad wo got song too Dare up fom 2 ithe an fotvend Tf ‘Mate wid of lapal 3 a he widest pars and 9] tho ball. amples tar an aking th bn oan tha of th tpl ‘rae sate sok down trom 13 ncn Drs ine fom to the i int. jute ovo th 9 lt Dash heh aed eo tne ‘Aid fata show ‘Aad Hi 1 runt ip above line dawn rom * to hip yotny an rus wat am ead ela forted 3p ehe Are aptueane io father of th at ac of ake. ‘ask down fro hip pi to 3y 3 tot foc target has boot edded tothe sist i foal it nogce 3 nod en ‘Tha deg afte oat i tho enna oe length f beh UnNTS ON MAICING, ‘Garments thie ducing of wana lo fling characte, itu conta tht social alunos shuld be pid tothe maple ota Ue ha ea th wa saddle “fuente of the oc hd pout 2 ‘fin and en find the cnt of poet sven doable, ill nthe cg ie trated i wil bo wll to provide «hl SN oh ae sia aceon la SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. "43 ‘THE Da, COACIENG OVENCOAT. DIAGRAMS OX PAGE 6. Teting end making “She material onal itor dea dask Bins, Tein tind with ‘any wlan pid, and aw tho botlom fend up tnatorial far enbug to tae the top vow of sulcbing," "The ella Wainy sf to sina sera but ume of velo puto hor arapfing alr Usa ey at ated in ingrauThe fer sated md doubloliched, wr urappo, che staying (neither sido, ofa wih sveral rows of sewing aftr te ma er of the ef the wishing of ure, rang veal it of buck and forepare i aomatimen deat, in Tue CUTTING, 0 to 9 dept of eye to 11) aera) wat length, plan A, 0 to 44 fall gh pe ssa. Draw ior at sgh sul Mark Lack from Tif Ifin., and. draw centre of buch fem 0 strug ‘Ot eptalfh traal, : 2 yp fetta ia of tak pt stn bos 2 nce alow 3 ve ot taf fr the Unk ye She lk hiro of 9 R00 Ta ro 9, and drew seem fom 9401 Sis Gel ase ‘Tue FonEPARr. Continue ins 9 apd 174 eros to the Frnt. 31021) hall chet ple 31 to 4 och ‘Ae thos cont ayo peal made vary Wwe ling, a tle extra room ben draebackof the bas fam poi 13} ‘Ad fn, to thin aod wwoep agin, wang pont 21) a & pot Where the wpmenta erat laste the nase pot ©. Seep by the ovecahouldr meanare plo fin, low 9 to of the ‘wok, trot point 13}, and o got th shout Stn, take oub tile at tp of eiamam, {iy cae, len of kic-room maa be prove fr thorobouts for Svc 0 elbow and ef. A. iokorpeokt i pat ith slove, and lon of the cul carved ove he band ond Hollowed x the fia. TU faced up with ho ume material deap enough tote tho stehing. HINTS ON MAKING, . find nec i thor ma sat, sa thoy are see (ba um tesa ult wmotime cut fom 10 ta 0 peso46 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY THR FLY-vRONT PuOCK OVERCOAT, fr'bae i oaly ‘to Gnd the poston of Ue hippockl, make Xnidway baton ip pl and Fron of sie nigra, 16 an etd ron pip ni may oir bo Gio with ‘naples welt, ‘Tho pontisn fet ene tha sano.48 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY LY-FNONT PADDOCK COAT. (nm is dingram wo ates a syle of oat which wan excetingly ‘nihed sie, and taken out under the wr, ty edges doubleatieed, fl apache are avenged oh ‘aia rived and daubleatiteed, ‘THE SYSTEM. DIAGHAN 1 Iiety pb, thewstan ea fll: ‘ Point 3, 8, 17, 194 are found av wus 174 tof Yaltannch, and dra lve for dtee wie lowed ck nye it mad about 2 incon, aod sidanam is Bae “Tho various point of he shouler, te, ato found at alrendy sida, and 1 inch ie taen ‘rm, th fd Leng trtintad aout 4 inohen below and eves trom 1 to T. 7 hie paint nod nar af 6nd op 100 fo hn bac of sit, adding ou fn. of 060 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY Dan, paLEror, ina to the paddock, ony it hae « separate sida i “in th diagram ives on This page wo al tna ‘ee "sa ofthe wait oan 2b i sree sprain = fk othe wads Coa i the om ity some. When Baya botiom of Batt ap td "pho details of suaking-up thie coat are claely iluteated on the SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS st‘THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY ‘THE carED ULsrE, from 0, and ao got the sp bach neck beat 2incer th wif back play i, end curve bask soe ‘Shape souttersam from to Mate sith of bk ov wad ‘down to inn pa 7 onesie reat, cmp the uek shows ‘rue vorepant,51 "TIE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY Add Gin to thing and erp feom 21 ‘Where agents tare: lotee the ett puat, Sea fron 19by te overaouldor meant pla f iaue 9 to A cot the bay aa Ct Ba tie hap as width of back std. cy, sinking it Hin Bulow opts mye line ae fa a fnury forward @ fucker, and deep 1 te Ufa and aquare' the lower pat of th udesoum by thy slag on ‘Suttedown fom Bf to : au ft the Beare ea ioe ifins whh ed ow al rough ‘Add fiat ato a acpi Ton sown eed ts tnt op mea se is tao mln nich taf Tn was nn see ‘the shoulder may bo made warrowor. ee TUM Pockets, Er, “Th pasha a4 marked wil tow they should be of god st, whit oie potion in much as uaua.”The brett prio aaps frm 3 ie blow dup af ayo line front up taketh ht ley a sya nf Suc by 2 aa eek ocktt i ua below Cho wai love, and Sup i 4 sac by Biche ae ‘Te hip pockets ary paced 4f inches dein fromm the walt ln 7 lo of the ‘Tue care, . Draw line trom O to, which ‘a ih stra he iu the asker ao ‘low to Leping Haigh daring te low Mowat’ ff the lngth to 26) pls samy, aid ake Tf at che eng of bak, pe i proce a fll cope Oto Be + ale i'T1 at Grand the ae amount from 3 o¢ whatever bas” oi added tothe back Be eo cea te ec SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. 5 Tot the front of ep overlay the bac 1 eye lias and deny the venta down to J “Aa on fi. font, and ke he eth of oat aie lew ‘an the lark sanaring daw fro the we Pe ths om the depth of ners OW MAKING. eta f this tcrpton aro moaly made from check ehevit. sed-asb aally lined with woslon plaid” TE tho cep lo seuted 2 ety, een ln th Uo callarmas Aw atervative tte Malti narrow sandler proved vith buttna and int Uitne shld te pate om onde a tho ah star farepat of thn eape to kop place oop Pruminn aga, an ext with » bellow soning aga apd' en Tall a sown the dag ‘rule coven ooar. Se8 DIAGRAMS OM PAGE 51 Spada Fetura : Ply front, gooealy wlnlebck: lite at ba ftoyuatly rita) eu gncrally Gain Fite arranged ender ear? wamber pt usally litedy bat toot mail ‘ith aly buggy sone top of back, and fainge through Freya “The apm fr outing tho sma au for Catered, the dara ekg slfeplnacary In thie apt ih a whale bach, fi la lo ev abowlt ta ate he bree ine fr By tont fa? ince, att bck wear rghit lack over forpart A eam, hack ever forapnt at sheuefecam, body over Hare ah wey topaile ones ttnlrclere at bth hid and fear "nate the frat as Tl Tit dsr to fnsh raved, Wu teo rome of ew putin leer jing the slew, turning in the ego and st ‘owas and thon wwing the ap aod waar aleve togeth edinary song.ei . 1 9% THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. 57 sloth Uy aro ually wade fin bas become o> these “at i han gol toby clad "covert itched ta srtenpond, ‘a gre a deleting wel gf aepiag at on fom Hin ts euih hw te ‘sod th hipap faces by 2} or 2 incon, ‘al Unt are" for riding parporn the only yocket afte the brespostat A tab fe wowaly pat adore 048 to enable the woterto metre soe te Ura ‘Ts tab shows or Dag (Coidera see a Gover coating a usually waterproof, iter afore Ble made staring the pet of taking ‘Thin nay Ve doe afc tha be so ‘on H peter, in wich cose the wate hoes tet58 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY SCARBONOUGIT CLOAK, "The Berboro ss slneon, but a dup alleaund tape, Oech chariots are vs fille for thew, ‘They are day to soy ting loa ie uoually mado op with lege arable, © very alae for teavling.purpoon "The diagram shows he feout mada up to baton thro ‘Tisstylo of gacrant i adiably sla for waterprooty the vry lap any aay 2 ards ach a oxllnt opportunity for vet atom that ll dial to the ramoval ofthis groan otlon 2 vatrprots ie done away with ‘A rfarena to tho diagrne wil show the spacial fyturs of te Type of thin garment. 1 caro; th shoulr bo nee ai he aye Ie Tuy «ini lw he depth of 490 ine aad gaara yl of cut the picpa fn saying avert Ta her ly {in pproton af th wat a situa bo te ext ‘esd coming esa 8 inch, ad py Uso of thw gatata is mada long end toy feqeny mesma 24 ncn tn op), eccary la lee ep to ack, asunge a opnig with» ad Ay citar ould tly te walk ti “Thay are generally mad single ended, baton the sinuly thia 0 varied by dhe double bens; thes, fection, "Tha pokote are mostly patched ia a sinfar manne to 2 verve, to which garantie beara ao eibing «rsomblanc th some cll i an Tnvevnen ih tha capa goog all round, ‘Th wack ‘generally Swish with x Pron calla, the excoption bs {He capo in arrangal me» spare gartent and ol sewn tot tthe ollarscam a wauly thon the bodypet ie gvorlly Gael ‘vith a mand ell, and the cape thar Ssh with ea ‘ho withot calle, ado often round the neck wi hake Si eye SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. 194] PEE 0Gy THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY ‘rue cara ‘Vous for this elas of guemont wa have lustre on Diagenns 3 sd 6, the tye Ling nek Uf bolgpact and mark dony bask sat and ech 1 inc al cra t shouller, and got the width by teneuing dow feom nape of neck ono-thind breast, and marking sorte onethed ‘Movaure of the tagth rqvied plus eo down the Tick; mark down Tom soulder pia, th fall Yngth a Ick, tinue 3 Tach.” New epply ths ans tothe font tha sama Tonge tho back rom O to Ws ie Voie longth a the sentra of back plan In. ‘Aju Uh tront ago ia barony wih tho vyle dead, ding to.or Liking from tho font of the farapart tion ‘They we ext long evough to caver the slenes of the unto, sul sult lnc aa fro wot tro, Da Te wi Bs ‘el ac to remark that hoavy maar Tose fale thaw tha aod, 12 be wall to ac them igh eae ing when made font ‘ete taany tse al chevse ‘YoRED ovencoars, uring the last few years, overcoata havo in many cate bean ui i her “The mot eran hav been eat with the solders ight ty of the shoulder. In erdor to btaln thin et off inch er of forojart sad are, and Hf at acy end ailing ham the feat tothe Lach ‘Tha conta are wally Bais with yr! yok starting bot Tick Lilo the wei aud ar nl Tine top. 6© THB TAILOR AND CUITER ACADEMY ‘rime Moron ovEROOAT, Special Roatan: Laue Mingy with pty of room sound wat ants, plonty of overlap at tnt Datong wp to throat wh Dmian caller. ‘Turabeck eal to aleve Wied ctf ads. raw line 0 50, 0 #3. (0 3 we thi depth of se 0 te 9 dap of wpe, 0 to 17] nataral want length, poe (0 4025 9 inches Uno wale logt, (400 fll tng plas Jin, aw live a ight anges 3, 9, 174 60 0 9 outst brat, 3 8 wide of back plas 1 och * 2 Us 20 all host pia 6 incon. ‘hia will allow 4) ince for i be allot for goo tek ning, aad if Sol et a eB Fad aottpoine by rato sunray taking 185 UB he front ste plan fn, at lene wid of back nok Toh to D tha cvoraouler, plas inl W of th bak Sink soy fin. slow Tine takeout i. ee ung to to Gonnact V with 26 aad spe gorge from H to I, hd op atbatio af dear by coming tn om, 6 inches, sand epping 1 ad aquang by tl ine ‘jue down fram 24 for Urea ino, oxcph in en of eorpuleney, emda op to measure, Ble 4 fea tp, Inco seat, a @ fchan ab "Te cll diagram, in ches," inde elle explanatory. The. fgures repeaeat Continual on th right side to for ® "The sore ia st a4 proriouly doribod, and is easly fished i's tarwtck cul, nud nbd on the fide wih, wind ele heute brought sibs to the wrist by pion of clasti chi ie putin wih vr wen tbe het ity SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. cyape tanoK Ano curren acapuny ‘THLE suLaPELy urvenaess, ‘The tnvrou hae sue svsrax, Dray tna 0 44,0 4a ight ag Oe tok arte 14 and mask of from ‘rom 3 to 1] the aera ack eunar, Fl nae of back rem 0 ‘Sowa ow Gra our tation to ‘Tue vonevanr, Yoo 814 como back to pit 13), the wzsechnmeatre, pie hd the nek panty , by apg pend i ‘i tng EiSsual fn tf oe SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. 65©THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY From © ta D and D to are ach onotwalfth ofthe bret, ‘the bneot line tate go fom D to 0h low hich te ent lw i deawn ot right angln to ine 9, 21, with ia. af wprng ab the "Add fie. to the lngth of forepart ia front, wo as Uo gUt-8 con siamo run withthe back. ‘Non slant in of Baton stand and Ue for We wow tarm oor aLenton to THe WING, Which fea apcil oat ofthe Inveraim. ‘The gerge from © to 2k the tne asthe forpart I inl sad on fen To oumrast any tondoaey there ay topos ‘The sotinued from Glo D, and sade a fal in utsower than th bck, tl draw a line fom tw the codon of 134, su wold be aval Spi “Thin followed for aboat3 or 4 iasho fem the aouer sua, ‘Now draw a tine from Ay theough point 9, and conuock M with fhe forspart as ltarated, sing thosleoabeed for shat perposs” Now we Ue forearan ofthe soos forthe Fun ef wing oi MN. pick, ond evingiag ith of the Lackpart of the wing, eominning roo the frcpart erage hia wing ntended to baton Coough ie fon saute" Beisel at th echt with sand Pr fale “If steed to Ue nl with alae sod tary will be seca tr i he rp {he cellar on the wing, az shown 00 Dig {he ‘wing away slut’? ncn blind te, Bos {o'Ua fvepert wi ab . {YU LININGS FoR OVERODATS, ur linings are fly wie. Sab, aabrashan and thar fae are slag tue. "To rake provision or them, th ain of {fo Tore 4 dei weeny, llurwiae hoy are tut an ual The clay fot Taplined overcoats ie woul af te ol typ, Tw feta ate elon ‘sma with aan oleate bation The font ar Tuten ‘it tops of braid wich go over tha baral Unto SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. gt INVERNESS WITH SLEEVES, DIAGRAMS om ped 0. Suan ar ee sail ued this Invern, TELS beet the se ng eto cla as ea nay Chater, which wo Lave Mund eo dagen by dee sede nny wl se ‘Theshosler a mula the same width a he Cher, hn ep fo thle pit af bettas ‘ut on th orp the ale bing te continue the bowen tr Tas sp to Ue hour puny as por tan da ese sh {hese ju he sno a Tar «Chea, nadsrecagiog ea eval The dns mt ftir wie oh eth of weg Ul wa, frp and eck Wption a ie ‘oie independoa of the eae ‘THE OLD srYLE ov mivEnwes, ‘Slot n Chodortad block of te sie of naa our customer, or, i he the line id owe in frmar pgs, Pace th bck ft yes ‘hove come ut fos wait Hin and draw the cotcoscan ef ie ‘bck senght through this from eckpoiet to the boion, Ae 1 inch to A and Ubi show the seek sad boulder points of Chen feseld back but trun point opening et lng Incro sonce * point inch fro tho back on the depth af aye ine, tow eae i sonld continua at am angl, found by taring beck Get repping dwn 1 "Tes ea se ‘sy rund to tern the scan vl pps Wy. not svat eshte mack {aller han thi, ati aes the cap more lene te tate al cp ita, onthe scat bw thay a Se inoue to bs added armaSa oo THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. ‘rm voRevasee. 0 the Cntr foropart, mark round the fot ag, tha the taverns: Thck without ny wate bang i Althoygh wa have lid down past snch a fr the syo, Uhre fe ear ‘iat Th about nay be nei ‘rn Wino, "Tato the frapatt of th Cte sero the sleet, and fem Fevaiad. Fora clove Gitting cape come bepond the sidan of Chee elo that the eta tale onethird brat plat ‘Singles aru oF le; bub an ator ya india, come out 1D, Trout aeaight, "hie will bw sony gathered fo the AL tho bottom of cap, J it sald extend 1 ish or In, tegen ‘ho front of Chstetald,vo wat prank any tondaney Ure tay be nom the data of tina inh on the more mode eyo, apply wth ua fre to thie garment7% THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY ROWDLENREASTED BAO (DIA. 249, (OF the various syle of onecoaa tat have ty any lng pce ined tole pope. imo, the D:D ae mus erally tako an tape 4 iv a fevouie for aviving, etching, ote, and won made frm Arab beaver or mlton, has wry sigh appearance ‘Me whateback I have illustrated marked fin, fom conection | ‘wt otharwi all tho plate are favo ae detrital for the Strat Chet ndypact by allowing the foepac to verlap the bsck¥ inch of Ua, at wala sad dram the sesum, sesight ehongh laches for evel. ‘The lapel in mal pointy and i should alwaye bo borne in ind Ha the tpl st wson Fan 25 ie ped encordig to anes no way gover the fe A oo ia somali take a quite option fron of gorge meaty but this ‘The tony are placed as far Iahind the brea tne a8 the bose fron of ft when the ee fe made up the Taft foapar should come in of Ue ight fr of the wai ad the ip When the seams are lappa the rule ight the ack ser to lt Wit orertap the reap (he front, and he tp adeaee everals SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. 11 Dovais Basasreo Sac OvenCoar72 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY D.D, ULSTER (DLA. 15, ‘Th flats aro all marked in gure, and ae ll found at prov ua deri HOOD (DIA. 288). dota le, | ace bik an foropart down Oto DB or 4 iach AF inches F te G 1 inch, Complete at ding Coun FOR ULSTEH (DLA 2, - tea lengli given tefl odg, coming down om? Ue 3.1 tole . Diagram 261 te antler hood Place back down, al eantinu ours of neck round from Oto 0 to 14, 1 inches, i Me ta 2.2 inches 14 13, 1 nse ney MMUSSIAN COLLAM (DIA. 230 Sy Sk So ng to soe thai, ‘Thesis gonrlly hed ith se “tua edges eve dele Mishel Somes th SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOAT. oausia 1A 258. 84 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY MILITARY OVENCOATS (DIA, 269, ‘he now pattern mltary ovrcot i of he Tag ray be gathered from Diagram fa, sate tho lading fectren: .b, tngth to 12 inchee fom ground sland ells Inch invaiad pleat fron nach towel ‘Sina deop; tao hipyoceta wit vertical opening, 10 takes der four Uations up su front, about ince oper top bate ine boom of bekweum, fasten ans ack fom seen, fastening wi thes ate ged fallow Stal: al loth, twa bved tpn Cavalry: fin, yellow aya “Atlory "in. duck Uae, with lop of watt bral, ISnginere "fo, searat Toop, ino bral Tatantey 1 lea ot ut fin. wt, lope in. whit, lop of sea ve, ‘Army Voteriney ¢ Proven Maral Taapctr of | % Madge of Rane worn on shoulder en “Lina on shoulder and hough nt Material © Millod drab mista, For tountal afer exteesriog ie adlod at sey and front, {inch bing aided to oth bark and Torpat, aad achea athe Toont, na yor dat aod das line {he mame a8 already dstibd for Sy neha aking up. eat Uo tat to prov entra eas ab ‘hae pat, fom 2 82. “Tha waltbete boat 3} shoe wide, sto goo shoxlJorerap, ae dagrame ta ove i sown on Diageen 28, tl desta the tao ‘se dotibed fr Diagram 103, the width at slbow sud tl blog Stand ine, fall 3 iach, SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. 15 fovencoar Suseve 01a.268.%6 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY CLOAK. As will be gathoct from Diagram 222, hie garmat Yoo iting 8 san or the Tat Lila Quer it of eave, with bine eat cl ape, and aes lot ning to wait or the fad Lifa Guat ei of calla ‘llr, and cet rant lining, Tho shoulderatenpe aro of tsa stein the garmeay with small button 6 op 1 i out inchos large thn chat mesaur fut, for 38 chit, it would be eat 42 incon, ee ‘overlaps a tha wait fechas he total wid ran the bottom i abot 140 neon, ‘it up te eetea of back, 18 inches deep, ive butlae up the fro ll cape, us Digran 273, ‘underarm, aa Diageo 24, ile sare with Msp pska in Poor avanne ovenooan, ‘The Poot Quarts wear an overcoat ofthe DB. frock pattern 1 is eat very similar to Disgram 236, with tho escopons te the lapel ia et inches wid a op and B inclen at wae, There ate vo Sep pochata va the hipm they being placed in the plate “The Tinh sido edges falhed wih «point athe entre buton od ack rap inp actu th ad the bck sista ar sown on train a ack grey ath, wil soulderseap of with turetack ex ‘ick fon, SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS, cuzvie Ferg 7weOTD SEPLGATIOND <= w78 ‘THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY SYSTEM FoR FOOT GUARDS OVERCOAT, eww tne 0.14 04 8 ball depth of mye pls ia 0 9 depth of eye (0 1017} pls fin, natal wala ‘eww linea at right angle to 0,6, 9, Mywh, Draw line Oy a “Th bk a eu on he rene Bape ack yang Oto 3 onsite Moto wilt of back ere am tipi oat (arer reat, pl in, pw Inca 1 13 inthe ernest ple i. 0 Eran Deana up wit to mcuuro pe 3 Hache, catreng $e pa nce dn wi at ba 3 ch wa ghctent tS mane west square down raw ing from hip Luton through SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. 79 ‘Addon fin. of rend, llow waisacem in. a top, front, mark doen fms bp Valo *, one al bro plan Jin; Ue forearn being Bllowed inch fm that sats. Pe wid of Che ell made oneicth brut lis 1 Socks = tteoback cus mada ushes a Syne and backs tad 8 cies te tp4) THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY MILITARY OVERCOAT AS WoRN BY OMVICERS OF ‘TIE xnvo's WoUSEHOLD, iy sigan fr Odes of to ‘iat teow the dea of tat ‘Tha Sppor parti shoulders we ad the bck eneral erice ns apr down the centro of igure wt 1 ‘a's single roused expo. "Te exter Uattonstand loon the Hight Proleion netomary. Ita made datachale Taving one ote th toteo sf the back, and sch feopart "Doth ‘ru suave, he leven of special putas (oe Diagram 2, the past tha i ‘ut aay Teun the bolt af the se bing added to the tp the Uhre leva. "Thee e'n frearmeai, but Bar i ‘ie the hsdara i he Diagram th alaves, lags the cul Diageam the ala. ‘Diagram thei of te lt ‘oof cline. Bisgrata 8 the aif at und Dinan T the ape TH TY Mo aDisaprey Pavan aay OTH were 5THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY NAVAL BOAT OLOAK (tA. 268) ‘To Ofial Roglation for thi ar re Es uocapaen tat tran; Ute leth, ee cpa ined ois wit ood ince! ee ‘he supply ba Prom thi it wil ba gathered tbat ment witout aoe ‘Tho cape is made daachabe, culling Choterfald, bat with the wye 102 Inches ofthe wat ce ‘Tho cape ia cut by the bodypart, a fllowes ° a rom 9, mark strom ous third Ura to 1 Deas lino aenght from 2 though 12 to 8 ‘Addon Hf at ab of wait, f Take of Ue ae frm front shoulder a4, 6, a ina evn added to ack Tat Toroprt ovrlsp buck 6 incon raw sue dawn 6. ‘A ou iabes at htiom of reat, and complet a shows ‘THE SYSTEM, Draw io 00 tara wot gt pls fa 6) 10 inches, ot er rou Z7fuart ack, a dee Oto 3 cnet sets Bee Pie : SYSTEN OF CUTTING OVERCOATS 8ee eee eer ‘ % THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY 2 ince Low 3 mateo olf ho width of back pay end ow ony ‘Shape shoulders ‘Mako width of back at waist onesitth of bre pas 1 ich Sour down trom this pointy and eoutinuy up ita the Leche, 2° 214 ball chat ple 9} ince ~ ‘Square dowa trom thie putt ‘Tao out fia at wait sul oquare forthe fractions ‘214 to 13) th scremchel aunts ple Sar fp SY te troethcter mows pln i, min wat back sede ‘Adi fn. to this, and aveep from 21} and e bad. Seu trm 19} ly the overated eaece pan fi . nce Oto D tea wid asthe back ae PRS Rac oa 1 and dais “Pie Wt ih hep of Kinda he bck pitch, dat alan ates ‘Maison ha tp of dread shown aT, an Teton Of frm onan us rot ah Sa Regulate a lenge bythe sy, ngage stk seb hop stint Forth orp af frat ot fra ‘noted reat ‘orent ple ar gee forking up. SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOAIS. & THE NAVAL anzaTooat, Dragan 1 SUE DIAGRAMS OW pace’ an ihe Maral greabeoat i worn by all ellen net tttdres or ieuntcma |The fal rguations are: ole ete age 6 camo to within 1 face Irom the sx Baton on each Teva of 4 belts 18 inchs lg, wid iy A oth strap nin, with botonte test tad v0 corcogondng wnifern betlony te ea te oui ait. Btind and fall ee fellas, dgw of theca be dl dev Gad with seap Gif repent)” Son resto, Ii the wat, shen worw wih the to te hosked yp, the seabbard pang thea ut tho Lil oxida Tue syerm, Draw tina 0-453, 9 10 3 onedhied depth of wigs, 0 10.9 depth of wp © & Inf natural wast Length pl fn, © (o 40] fll Iogth pan tame ‘Square linc at vght gle to thane pita Mark tack trom 2 inc, and 4G 8 ince, and draw ceatco ‘of peat from thea poe © to 3 smeteallth boas Sek tin 2 inchs Ia 3 asso of the width of bck poe Gin Curve out to, and aay suldoracun Aske width of back at wait whout 7 inches for the 36, {Rang oem from tis pat and canines up ioe ths bak we how. .8) THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY ‘Ti youurawr, 9 to 21) hatchet plus 3} inches. 21} to 13h he seroancti plas fa, ake 19) & pivot, and aneop by Tua thw of bask neck. rontsoalder, messuce ” Add Yin te thie quantity, and ancop piv, and fad 0. Mao 19} the pvt, and sweep by he vecsheulior ple jn, owe 9A af tha bade, I Mato C 40 u tide lo than the shoulder ofthe back, ing 2h ae the Mako C ta D and D to K oneal sal. {Draw broat lina from D to 21}, and square down for the breast ie ‘Adon 4 inches for overlap, and compte a “th pion of the post be dey i ‘ut i will bo wel for 10 pint ot that ae allow te placed on a lone with the hip pocket of the ado odgy may be gathered trom nary type cul faley wide, an fned nthe tate SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS a{8 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY vntvom ovEncoats. of the larg eompanioe provide, for Shir employen! ik {Eid somldraby tothe yarn “ald typo, with double bronted front und ye ws Be Frat the a Gimpeny. provide Unit Ta batons, eed a bregrnpleepl EE meters ct ota natend of sing Aimy 24d i lave the if afnvunsing the neepoiae «Hal TL Alvin to take xt vue from tho top af th the water edge, and evabiea the clr to shape sling I ten wide a ‘Spacat Feature > Db Nap pace on ipa, tel post ty fie gilt alton ap font, the lop Taran down bach 3M inchs Foam bat. Git badger on aller ied. Hack ite ast e SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS. 29 THE TAILOR ANO CUTTER ACADEMY tue sysren, 7 © ta 9 dopth of wpe, (0 to 174 natural wast tngth, pee 25, 9 inchs below 174 or thereat © to 40 Fal ough pas fi, © 40 #3 onetwafth Brea "3 tof, Yn 3 to width of back pls 1 ach, f 940 Hf width of back, fis 240.214 hac plas 3 incon, 2 to 13} eromeheat nantes, ka Oto. low OW of bask, = 194 to D tho oversheulder meses, pee i ¥ ta Da tat eas than ft 8 BY and ¥ Tpch cnt breast 7 ‘Sink eye Mins alow depth of wpe line Yor proprtiunta waist equare down from 21) Aion Unto atand 3 Inches, and shape lapel te Last, ond if tought daeaie, take weet chown tlw buckecrm Jin. to fin, and make back los fins at wae “Take oat fl to Yn. ax fro te 7 Obishsapring over hips by marking in from TY. @ nghes 1 roping dawn ly ing otto of aisaam by 7 1 ‘Syare acto from 40, and logthon front at bt Tes smart Bia dorird at waa, takeout fae vudor the atm, Plscing it about 9 Ince fro edema, “Tha pockat of these cote sould be of strong materia "Ta diver’ conta aro unl Hina with woolen materia esinth bees, SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS- ot LIVERY OVERCOAT (DIA, 265). ‘That fr coach Inve Bap om the hip, and th mide of the tp aa ‘Thaw fe: the fotnes ate cut to rach to within 7 Sache f the pron, ‘Thar aro no fapn ox the ipa, bub the pockets ave pub in eat : Ticket gehen waa, Graco ovrcnt at tt to jut cover he kno, aadbave pocket nu pote -All bev to alg, 1 acon log ‘The bdypart is Final vith woes, ‘The ara aco Uhed with sua ed the sar wt ‘The Datlns wp tho fs forypart are plage, and Us top Dutton ctagal se atthe ed of the car can bw pat uador {That gorge has oie wore fn. ming up tho neck, whew sanyo hed ke proaon ar E rue curtina, Bpariouce taachas vw that gaementa ub ftom thick materia such ts Devon, will not into the hollow of the back ae ently 1 thinne mata; conacgacatly monly coma foie. fom ote {inn Tne a wast. Thue i Sly 1c taken oak etme A sidledy,"tnd nly fi, under tho arm 2) decks wil bef fitout tallow ever shat te "fall fat tha font ahaa mca tahon om the gare ately all i tote whe ak ‘seond snag; and ain, Co the over tholler hing ha thitd aweap "Tho sowing ta edge ath Top i ent by the frou edge ecopart, the wf altop an etn stualy $f hen, wih tho outer de ataighty acl tyUrovgh from top. Addon fia of round. Come up tron line" O-a waderarmatem, een Allow about fin, for flow, and got the ran of oak by auasing oom 0 and at tn fren (to * Wed Sochos Daw tho wale ine, Allow 1 inch tothe long decid, aad ans the front the seme longi the back Caroll Lost the foneprt to andthe’ wai, sui corrogpond vith bath stn, sa compte a par agra ‘The calla i of tho Prunion (pe, a shown am Dageae 8, 0 to gj, bal oo, : SY to thet Hin Ot I elt Hh Cte the dep of a, fom 9 U3 ine AnoruER sr¥te, Dativg the past ow youre many livery overcoats have been mate ‘i ay ltt tnt wa ae Tee Bier ya wll oe tae ena ‘etc Yonge Waacimase tn, tengh Te er ‘ly opt to wae ne ted fans Pay are Wh Tate sh oy oe eat Se ‘om thi that te’ ala od tor Diagram 1 show Diagram 2 long eet white ath of shit far the gecum, Hie9L THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY OLICE OVENODAr (DLA. 218), ‘Tho ovrecat wore by Use London Paice i snd of Bac oth ix black polos buttons ap ac front to faton through las sown on lapel f ck be Ensed witht atand fide wage ia Use poate of sire with ove baltoa at bat: ier oath top of pasa ‘ook ia pend ou tho estou at hip, fof «alo rat ecient von balog tas of ‘ads for rar garment, it ovoraboulder of in, oF fi i “Tho allawane for ‘Phe apring given tothe she 3 inches froma Bt ‘th wih of Tapa 2 fnchos at wei and. or} aches at ing up i 3} incon at cost and 2) Toohor 70 pools in tho lacakir. malo of trong Bch linet ae casa on fr the oak. “thers ts sno do ego "Tho rales auc Logins fallow Men fel 4 inthas In ‘haight, 7 Seco ang Io 1 ea 10 aches in eighty 4 flee Teng ie 1 ina9% THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY sth song ch {nd tho aotan out be scm to by band.” Orotena ‘itn double threcd. "ibe average pte of ths Thos rent aa por par, inher wie, ‘nme sysren, af we ifn ian ost between Duck and subody, and Inch at tho under Sravacuny thi brings Yat elon, wh le wecoary, sole cen vide ta 34 chasis allowed over out, nd, adiona i. Vajlanam aad easo. "The abit in eve taily fal, * bang {Cie dow from waste in frnt and 3} osbea the back, ‘mora aprng to th eke Tho apa for dott fina ts E wnuesni's OVEROOATS, ‘The flowing aro the yarioulrn of re brigade oficard ove. "Th oft oveciak. sully sade of dark Maw pit eat, Milian, made in DIB stle to ation cle up to noc with cop "Prien ola. ‘Tha beck in made im Toon ane syle, gomorally with alt set in the deen, ao bu io of back, "Tha racing extend syeral hori row i ually tinal Sith beauy blue wr seen at Tithe re 2 ‘ Tat pckst oa et id," “The edge, cull, and ella are daub ante SYSTEM OF CUTTING OVERCOATS, Overcost.9% THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY ‘CHESTERFIELD FROM LOUNGE PATTERN, ‘Tako w modal pattern of lounge 4 inches Ingo in tha Lest thas ‘ho meanaro of the eutamer Hi daied to eal fry thal ay fe haw Uso’ taken over the vou, at ‘alvin Us enly par of thin werk, Now proced foley dow ‘on th cll, marking round it eras, extoding It tothe daied length, aud leaving gn 1 inch to fin. t» form the basktack, ‘arting at 9 ine blow tho natura wait, and deaving tho lind ob 4 llaeala, This quantity fo « god ie may be mado «Ulla move of litle low lor woey Yong or very short garments but as sguneralquaity thin wil be one atontion to the forpar, and tbe fit thing We oto dd fi, tront, 4 to produce the ordinary Ayfrnt gl, varying hone quantiticn 1 tho amount of overlap dasiad, Mark rowed the gorge ne ilstatod, being carl to kop {hiety wall wp in front; adi. arn the front shoulder ned round ho gorges follow round the aeye exact, tnd continue dow th ideas Lo tho wast, Uelow which point it should be oprung out ‘ror the hie itor in the syle provouly derby er coming in he, andl down 1 inch, of adding In, to the lounge,” Thine alere ‘ho aro necemary tallow elit oom inthe sts for wlking ‘poms, and to lv alent extra rom ithe ahoular aloe Fite going over other oot rape ly any in ‘uf to the Bladaem, ard the ‘sition of fla. at tp af Mindi, The th of ack and ‘i foun an proviouly decribed, whit the naan rule would SYSTEM CF CUTTING OVERCOAT. »0) THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY DANY nov's ovERGARBENTS, ‘Tho tei demand I the Kl overcoat, which, ka ita 0a is garmont intend for wear over Uh frocks sod si by very ile Ways. The oy a dhe age of 2} cr 3 you generally ‘or-toti, vhortsickal, orpalant and erect, ss compared wt tho adult gure, The sinary variations of shape for thos igyropartions have bon made in the diagram, whi by Who ordinary inehape to the deasions given, wil tt boy ot 12 rout and 29 waist, eames bung taken one the frock, Wo condor ib equally important to take the direct ‘svi a8 for ada, a8 th juvenile is eda proportionate und ‘ow anomors, if takon with ete, will provide for al eiaticns ot atti and form of the shoulders, the daproportion ot the want ‘sing provided for bythe onion of « fh nad tai “p> Wrowion telweun foropact and back a adceam. Tn onus to go ‘allciont spring over the lower park t go over th wil be nssney to spring out buow the wait of bath sid af es td the siden of frwpart, The plan falloed inthis esis te ‘top fim at citer wie of the wat, and sunre down fr the lance oust that nt mnamre would ba tae uteide the fsck wor "Tho Vrain cl seo id dow nd seaves are prodacad on the wee tne © wo Wed nol ogala raped these SYSTEM OP CUTTING vERCOATS.\02THE,TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY moons, On thin yg we lve diagrams of tno aang style of hod In such cate the diagrame are seltenplanetory, the Sigur given rep toating inchor for tho 36 ehut orerset. hee uti thos i Uo give aulfentwte, andi wit a all for the 1 be worm over the when taking the onda Hk i ily over tho head. be cw in wth the ella roued the nek, or vind feton oo ith bution nal ely of hohe and oopee ‘ Fe The G.r.c. Direct Measurer. INVALUABLE fo THE weasueNE OF KrTHen LaDES On GENTS, Price 3/me, post free 55/3. ‘The Jobe Williamson Co. Li 42, Geeted Sweet W,Model and Special Pattern Price List. GENTLEMEN'S GARMENTS. LADIES’ GARMENTS. sort a < 4 3 5 2 3 2 3 2 3 7 i 3 2 3 2 3 i 3 2 5 i 3 Psa gis BS fa ead ! : + gz iB inet i 24 $85: i Be eal, kind | ' se ge 2 ESHEG ¢ 2 22 334.4 32883 7 3 me 332 aah 1:64 2| See e nls - bel S| GRAS } Boe Sl Te a ‘feiis i SEE faye i S38 s Ba 3.7 Sl ee Biks 23 5| a ivi = “8|