Elise Corset Top
Crochet Pattern
Designed and Written by
@lankabyme
Hello!
Thank you so much for purchasing the Elise Corset Top Pattern
and supporting my small business.
This pattern is for personal use only, please do not sell or
distribute any part of the pattern. Recording tutorials using this
pattern is also not allowed.
You may gift and sell the finished product as long as you credit
@lankabyme as the designer of the product.
Please tag me (@lankabyme on Instagram) on your social media
when you share pictures of your finished top. I'd love to see and
share your creations!
If you have any questions, you can contact me through Instagram
(@lankabyme), e-mail (lankabyme@gmail.com), or my website
(lankabyme.com).
Thank you so much to my talented testers for helping me create
this pattern.
Sydney (@_sincerelydaisy)
Adella (@kyndsouls)
Brittany (@b.leef.crafts)
Vanya (@bloombloombabie)
Hanne (@mountainfairy_)
Yanna (@hookedntangled)
Qiah (@kaitkatn)
Mong (@mongscrochet)
Phoebe (@mochimicrochets)
Rachelle (@raeecrochet)
Penelope (@tinypenelope)
Jules (@wonderlandknots)
Keziah (@ksstrings)
Theresa (@madebyteetee)
Pattern Notes
Pattern Level: Advanced Beginner/Intermediate
Terminology: U.S. Terminology
Materials/Tools:
200-400 grams of fingering/sport weight yarn. Preferably cotton or other stiffer
material that will hold shape better. Refer to look book for more yarn varieties
5.00mm crochet hook or any that matches your yarn.
Tapestry needle
Measuring tape
Stitch marker
Abbreviations:
ch: chain how to make an extended single crochet:
st/s: stitch/es insert hook through a stitch, yarn over, pull
sk: skip through, yarn over, pull through one loop, yarn
sp: space over, pull through two loops.
sc: single crochet Video Tutorial by MJ's Off The Hook Design
hdc: half double crochet https://youtu.be/wbI-7aqCHbo
dc: double crochet
esc: extended single crochet
Notes:
The Elise Corset Top pattern is a made to measure pattern. You will receive an
Excel Formula File to help you calculate the measurements of the top following
your bust measurements.
The top may be worked using two strands of weight 1 or 2 yarns
simultaneously or single strand of weight 2 or 3 yarns. Refer to look
book to see yarns used by testers.
Turning chains are counted as a stitch.
Stitches written between *asterisks* are repeated.
Stitches written between (parenthesis) are worked in the same stitch.
1
Pattern Overview
The corset is worked horizontally (from side to side) using a modified moss stitch.
Shaping is done to create a wave-like shape, with the curved down sections located
in the front, sides, and back.
Worked in this direction
First row
front back front
laid-flat view
The finishing consists of creating ruffles along the top and bottom edges, adding
straps, as well as strings for closure. The closure can be worn either on the front or
the back depending on preference.
Modified moss stitch:
Row 1 - Chain any even number of stitches. Work esc on the 4th chain
from your hook, ch1, sk1, esc on the next chain. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the
end of the row. ch2, turn.
Row 2 - esc on the first ch1 space of the previous row. *ch1, sk1, esc* until
the end of the row. The last esc should be worked between the very first
esc made on the previous row and the skipped chains. ch2, turn.
Row 3+ - repeat row 2.
It's called the modified moss stitch in this pattern because the repetition is
based on the regular moss stitch, but using the extended single crochet
instead of the normal single crochet.
2
Formula
To use the formula, insert your bust measurement in the light orange cell.
The measurements in the Panel Measurements table will be calculated
automatically.
This formula calculates the top with negative 5 inches/13 cm ease to your
actual bust measurement. The stitches used will be stretchy and the negative
ease will make sure the corset top fits tight on your body. It also creates the
crisscross effect from the corset strings. You may adjust this by changing the
number 5/13 with your desired ease. Keep in mind that it is negative ease, the
higher the number the smaller the top will be. The material of your yarn will
also affect the stretch of the panel.
You will have to fill in the Row Count table manually as will be instructed
further in the pattern. It will be used to make sure your corset top is going to
turn out symmetrical.
3
Main Body
Open your formula file and insert your bust measurement to calculate the
width of your top. Instructions on how to use the measurements will be explained
further in the next steps.
1. Measure from the top of your chest straight down to the top of your bellybutton.
This will be the length of your corset top, you can make it shorter/longer.
Make your starting chain as long as that measurement + 4 chains (lightly
stretched). Remember that the total number of chain should be an even
number. This first row will be worked in the back ridge instead of the chain for
a neater look.
Work esc on the 4th back ridge from your hook. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end
of the row. Ch2, turn.
Back ridges are these bumps behind
your starting chains
how your first row should look with
esc *ch1, sk1, esc*
4
2. On the second row, work esc on every stitches including the ch1 spaces.
You should have twice minus 2 esc amount of stitches as your first row.
Ch2, turn.
ch2 (counts as a stitch)
one esc stitch
one chain 1 space
work the first esc on the first ch1 space, and continue working on both
the ch1 space and esc stitches.
second to last stitch is worked on the first esc
stitch of the previous row
last stitch is worked
in the space
between the first esc
and the skipped
chains
5
3. Work esc on the 2nd stitch. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row. Ch2,
turn. Repeat this step until your top measures A (refer to formula file). For row 4
and every row after that, the first stitch will be worked on the first chain space.
Note down how many rows you worked so far, starting from the first row. The
number of rows you worked will be X, write this down on the Row Count table of
your Formula File.
row 3: first esc is worked
last esc is worked between
on the second stitch
esc and ch2 ch2 (counts as a stitch)
row 4+: last esc is worked
row 4+: first esc is worked
between the ch2 and last esc
on the first chain 1 space
6
4. On the next row, you will start to decrease. Work *esc, ch1, sk1*
throughout the row and make a decrease on the last 2 chain spaces. Ch2,
turn. Tip: Mark the side with the decrease with a stitch marker as a reminder to
always work the decrease/increase on that side.
How to Decrease
To decrease at the end of the row, make esc2tog
esc2tog: insert hook, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through one loop,
insert hook to the next stitch, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through
one loop, yarn over, pull through 3 loops.
work es2tog through these 2 spaces. (the first one is a ch1
space, the second one is between esc and ch2)
work first
esc here skip
Further in the pattern you may
have to decrease at the start of
the row. To decrease at the
start of the row, after making
the ch2, skip the first chain
space and work the first esc on
the second chain space.
5. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row. Ch2,
turn.
6. Make another decrease row. Ch2, turn.
note: I suggest counting your stitches every few rows to make sure you're on the right track.
After every increase/decrease you should have one more/less esc stitch. You may also place a
stitch marker on the increase/decrease row to help keep track of where they are. The stitch
might make it hard for you to recognize decrease/increase rows without a stitch marker.
7
7. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row. Ch2,
turn. Repeat this row until the entire panel measures B (refer to formula file).
Keep in mind that this measurement starts from the very first row.
Note down how many normal rows you worked after the last decrease row.
(Normal row = no decrease/increase).
The number of row will be Y. Note this down on the Row Count table on your
Formula File.
By this stage, you should have a
panel shaped like this
8. On the next row, you will make an increase. Remember that the shaping is
done on the same side so you might increase at either the first stitch or the last
stitch depending on where your last row is. Ch2, turn.
How to Increase
To increase at the end of the row, after working the last stitch, ch1,
esc on the same space as that last stitch.
work (esc, ch1, esc)
between the last esc
and the ch2
To increase at the start of the row, after ch2, work the first esc on the
first stitch. Then ch1, esc on the first chain space, and continue working
the row like normal.
work first esc
here on top of
the first stitch
where the ch2
came out of
8
9. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row. Ch2,
turn.
10. Work another increase row. Ch2, turn.
11. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row.
Ch2, turn. Repeat this row until the entire panel measures C (refer to formula
file). Keep in mind that this measurement starts from the very first row.
Note down how many normal rows you worked after the last increase row.
The number of row will be Z. Note this down on the Row Count table on your
Formula File.
By this stage, you should have a
panel shaped like this
12. On the next row, you will make a decrease row. Ch2, turn.
13. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row.
Ch2, turn.
14. Make another decrease row. Ch2, turn.
9
15. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row.
Ch2, turn. Repeat this row until you have Y number of normal rows after the last
decrease row (refer to Formula File).
By this stage, you should have a
panel shaped like this
16. On the next row, you will make an increase row. Ch2, turn.
17. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row.
Ch2, turn.
18. Work another increase row. Ch2, turn.
10
19. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row.
Ch2, turn. Repeat this row until the entire panel measures D (refer to formula
file). Keep in mind that this measurement starts from the very first row.
Note down how many normal rows you worked after the last increase row.
The number of row will be W. Note this down on the Row Count table on your
Formula File.
By this stage, you should have a
panel shaped like this
Note: at this stage, check the fit of your panel. It should be less than half your bust for
a fitted look. You can try stretching it around your body. If it seems too big, take away
a couple normal rows. Your final panel will be close to double the width of your
current panel at this stage.
20. On the next row, you will make a decrease row. Ch2, turn.
21. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row.
Ch2, turn.
22. Make another decrease row. Ch2, turn.
11
23. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row.
Ch2, turn. Repeat this row until you have Y number of normal rows after the last
decrease row (refer to Formula File).
By this stage, you should have a
panel shaped like this
24. On the next row, you will make an increase row. Ch2, turn.
25. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row.
Ch2, turn.
26. Work another increase row. Ch2, turn.
27. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row.
Ch2, turn. Repeat this row until you have Z number of normal rows after the last
increase row (refer to Formula File).
By this stage, you should have a
panel shaped like this
12
28. On the next row, you will make a decrease row. Ch2, turn.
29. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row.
Ch2, turn.
30. Make another decrease row. Ch2, turn.
31. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row.
Ch2, turn. Repeat this row until you have Y number of normal rows after the last
decrease row (refer to Formula File).
By this stage, you should have a
panel shaped like this
32. On the next row, you will make an increase row. Ch2, turn.
33. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row.
Ch2, turn.
34. Work another increase row. Ch2, turn.
35. Work esc on the first ch1 space. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row.
Ch2, turn. Repeat this row until you have X-2 number of normal rows after the
last increase row (refer to Formula File).
13
36. On the next row, work esc on every single stitch, including the ch1 spaces
from the previous row. You should have twice as many stitches as the previous
row. Ch2, turn.
37. Work esc on the second esc. *ch1, sk1, esc* until the end of the row. DO
NOT FASTEN OFF
Don't worry if the bottom edges are a bit wonky because the ruffles will fix it
up!
I like to make the corset strings at this stage so I can put the corset on to see
how it fits. Since we didn't fasten off, you can use another ball of yarn or pick up
the other end of the yarn ball
To make the string, make a chain that measures around 150cm or any that is
long enough to lace up the corset.
Lace up the strings
here
Wrap the top around your body, and lace the strings around the ch1 spaces on
the first and last row of the panel.
14
Ruffles
1. Continuing from the last stitch you made, ch1, turn your panel sideways.
You will continue to work either on the top or bottom side of your corset,
depending on where your last row ends. Work SC evenly across the panel.
Ch3, turn.
last stitch
My last stitch ended on the top right corner so I'm doing my top ruffles first. If you
ended on the bottom, then you'll be working the bottom edging and ruffles.
Your edges should be more defined after working the sc stitches.
2. Now you will be making the ruffles. On the very first stitch, in back loop
only, work (hdc, ch1, hdc, ch1). On the next stitch and every stitch after that,
repeat in back loop only, *(hdc, ch1, hdc, ch1, hdc, ch1)*. On the very last
stitch still in the back loop, work (hdc, ch1, hdc, ch1, hdc). Fasten off.
note: instead of fastening off, you can also SC along the edges of your panel to reach the
opposite side. Don't forget to SC along the other side as well after working the next ruffles.
This will result in cleaner edges
15
3. Attach your yarns on the opposite side of the panel. For example, if your last
ruffle ended on the yellow circle, attach your yarn on the red circle.
Once again, work sc evenly across the edges of the panel. Ch3, turn.
Repeat step no.2 to create the ruffles. The ruffles should be facing the same side,
so you might have to work in the front loop only instead of back loops.
16
Straps
Put on your top and put a stitch marker where you want your straps to be. Make
sure that both straps are equally distanced from the center. The stitch markers
should be placed on both the front and back of the top, so you will have 4 stitch
markers on your panel.
The straps will be worked on the opposite loop of where the ruffles were made, so place your stitch
markers on these loops.
Spaghetti Straps
Attach your yarn where your stitch marker was placed. Make chains long enough
to reach the back of the top, slip stitch to where your stitch marker is placed on
the back. Try the strap on to make sure it fits well. Slip stitch across the chains
back to where you first attached the straps, fasten off. Repeat for the other side.
Chain only Chain with slip stitch
(less stretchy)
17
Triangular Straps
Right shoulder strap:
Work the first row facing the right side
Attach your yarn where your stitch marker was placed. Ch2, hdc on the next 2
stitches. Ch1, turn.
Hdc on every stitch, ch1, turn. Repeat for a total of 3 rows.
On the 4th row, 2hdc on the first stitch. Hdc until end of row. ch1, turn.
Hdc on every stitch, ch1, turn. Repeat until total of 7 rows.
On the 8th row, 2hdc on the first stitch. hdc until end of row. Ch1, turn.
Continue working normal rows, increasing every 4th row until the straps have
reached your desired width.
Work normal rows until the strap reached the back of your top. Slip stitch along
the back where you placed your stitch marker.
18
Left shoulder strap:
Work the first row facing the right side
Attach your yarn 2 stitches to the right from where your stitch marker was placed.
Ch2, hdc on the next 2 stitches. Ch1, turn.
Hdc on every stitch, ch1, turn. Repeat for a total of 3 rows.
On the 4th row, hdc until before the last stitch. On the last stitch, work 2hdc. ch1,
turn.
Hdc on every stitch, ch1, turn. Repeat until total of 7 rows.
On the 8th row, hdc until before the last stitch. On the last stitch, work 2hdc. Ch1,
turn.
Continue working normal rows, increasing every 4th row until the straps have
reached your desired width.
Work normal rows until the strap reached the back of your top. You should have
the same number of rows as your right strap. Slip stitch along the back where you
placed your stitch marker.
And you're done with your Elise
Corset Top!
19
