Blossoming Top

List of contents
Page 3. Basic information
Page 4. Back panel
Page 7. Front panels
Page 9. Assembly of the top
Page 9. Sleeves

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 Basic information
Materials Measurements
Yarn and a hook that M1: Measure from the outside of
matches the yarn. For this
top I recommend to use at your right shoulder to the outside
least 4 colours for the flower of your left shoulder.
part, but you can use more M2: Measure the distance from
or less colours if you prefer.
Pair of scissors the top of your shoulder until the
Sewing needle desired length of the top.
For my own top with short M3: Measure from the top of
sleeves in a size XS/S I used your shoulder to underneath
around 250 grams/500 meters
of yarn (DK weight, your armpit.
cotton/acrylic mixed yarn), and M4: Measure from the top of
a 5mm hook, but feel free to your shoulder until the desired
use any other type and size of
yarn. length of the sleeves.
M5: Measure from the top of
Abbreviations your shoulder, until the top of
SL ST= Slip Stitch your collarbone
SK= Skip
CH= Chain
SC= Single Crochet
HDC= Half Double Crochet
DC= Double Crochet
DC2TOG= Double Crochet two
stitches together
TC= Triple Crochet

Pattern information
The pattern is written in US
terminology.

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 Pattern
The Blossoming Top is made in a few different parts. First, you will make the
back panel. Afterwards, you will make two front panels with ties. Then you can
choose if you want a sleeveless top or if you want to add sleeves.
Back Panel
Step 1. Chain 4 and SL ST into the first chain you made to form a loop (or
make a magic circle). CH2 (counts as a DC) and DC in the loop of chains.
(CH1 and DC2TOG into the loop) and repeat the part between the brackets 6
more times, so you have 8 groups of 2DC in total. CH1, and SL ST in the
second CH from the CH2 you made at the beginning. Fasten off if you want to
add a new colour. (16DC and 8 CH1 spaces).

Step 2. Attach your new colour in between a group of 2DC you made in the
previous row, or SL ST until you are in a CH1 space (if you keep the same
colour). CH2 (counts as first DC) and DC two more times in the same space.
(CH1 and make 3DC into the next CH1 space of the previous row). Repeat
the part between the brackets 6 more times, so you have a total of 8 groups of
3 DC. CH1 and SL ST into the second chain of the CH2 you made at the
beginning of the row. Fasten off if you want to add a new colour. (24 DC and 8
CH1 spaces).

Step 3. Attach your new colour in between a group of 3DC you made in the
previous row, when continuing with the same colour, SL ST until you are in a
CH1 space. CH2 (counts as your first DC) and DC, CH2 and 2DC all in the
same CH1 space. (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in the next 7CH1 spaces of the previous
row and SL ST in the second CH of the CH2 you made at the beginning of the
row. I recommend using the same colour for the next row, to make the square
look like a flower. (32DC and 8 CH2 spaces).

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Step 4. SL ST until you are in the CH2 space between two groups of 2DC you
made in the previous row, CH2 (counts as first DC) and DC 6 more times in
the same CH2 space. (7DC in the next CH2 space), repeat the part between
the brackets six more times so you have a total of eight groups of 7DC. SL ST
In the second chain of the CH2 you made at the beginning of the row. Fasten
off. (56 DC total).

Step 5. Attach your new colour on top of the first DC of one of the seven DC
of the previous row. Make a SC on top of all 7 DC of the previous row. When
you are in between the groups of 7DC , make a SC by inserting your hook in
between the two groups of 2DC from row 3 (the 2DC without the CH2 in
between), this stitch is also called 'spike stitch'. Repeat making one SC on top
of all 7 DC, and one SC in between all groups of 7DC. SL ST in the first SC
you made and fasten off. (64 SC in total).

Step 6. Attach your new colour on top of the long SC you made in between
the 2DC groups of row 3. In the same stitch, CH1 (doesn't count as a stitch)
and HDC. SC in the next four stitches. Then, HDC, DC, DC. Next, make a
corner using (TC, CH3, and TC) in the same stitch. After the corner, DC, DC,
HDC, SC in the next four stitches. Repeat (HDC, SC, SC, SC, SC, HDC, DC,
DC, (TC, CH3, TC,) DC, DC, HDC, SC, SC, SC, SC) until you are at the
beginning of the row. SL ST on top of the HDC you made at the beginning of
the row. Fasten off and block the square. (68 stitches and 4 CH3 spaces).

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Step 7. Attach your yarn somewhere around the square and CH2 (counts as
a DC) and DC in all stitches, until you reach the CH3 space of a corner. In this
corner, make (2DC, CH2, 2DC). And repeat making DC along the sides and
(2DC, CH2, 2DC) in all corners. SL ST in the second CH of the CH2 you
made at the beginning of the row.

Step 8. From this row on, we will make the square bigger. Repeat step 7 until
the width of the square meets your M1. You can add some rows with 'holes' if
you want to. Do this by fastening off, and attaching your yarn in a CH2 space
at a corner. CH5 (counts as a DC and 3CH) and DC in the same corner space
and CH1. *SK a stitch, DC in the next stitch and CH1.* Repeat the part
between the * all around your square. In every corner make a (DC, CH3, DC).
When you are at the beginning of the row, SL ST in the second CH of the CH5
you made at the beginning of the row.

Step 9. Repeat making rows of step 7 and/or step 8 until you reach
measurement M1.

Step 10. If the length of your square is not as big as your desired length of the
top (M2), then you can add some length. Attach your yarn in a corner space
and CH2 (counts as a DC). Make a DC in every stitch, along the bottom of
your back panel.

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Step 11. You can also add some length, by making rows with 'holes', just as
the holes in step 8. Do this by making a CH3 at the beginning of the row,
*CH1, SK a stitch, DC in the next stitch.* Repeat the part between the * until
the end of the row.

Step 12. Repeat steps 10 and/or 11 until the length of your back panel meets
M2 and fasten off.

Front panels
Step 1. Attach your yarn at a CH2 space at the corner of your panel, CH2
(counts as your first DC) and DC once more in the same CH2 space. DC in
the next stitches until you are happy with the width of your shoulder strap. For
my own top I made 13 DC, but this depends on your size.

Step 2. CH2, (counts as your first DC) and turn. Make a DC in every stitch
until the end of the row.

Step 3. Repeat step 2 a few times, until the length of the front panel is as long
as the distance between the top of your shoulder until the top of your
collarbone (M5). Make sure that your final stitch points to the outside of the
panel, not the inside.

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Step 4. From now on, we will be making increases on the inside part of the
front panels, to be sure that the front panels will cover your chest, and can be
wrapped at the bottom of the top. CH2 (counts as your first DC), turn and
make a DC in every stitch. Make 2DC in the final stitch. (Note: If you have a
large chest, I recommend to make 2DC in the two stitches on the inside part
of the panel in every row, starting now).

Step 5. CH2 (counts as your first DC), turn, and make another DC in the same
stitch. DC in all stitches, until the end of the row.
Step 6. Repeat steps 4 & 5 until the length of your front panel, is around 3
rows shorter than your back panel.

Step 7. Now we will make the final 3 rows and at the same time, add ties.
Make a long chain that is around 1.5 times as big as the width of your back
panel, on the side where you made all your increases. Make an additional 2
chains (counts as your first DC) and DC in the third CH from your hook. Make
a DC in all chains and stitches, until the end of the row.

Step 8. CH2 (counts as your first DC) and DC in every stitch until the end of
the row.
Step 9. Repeat step 7 once more, and fasten off. Now one side of your front
panel is done. Repeat steps 1-9 on the other side as well.

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Assembly of the top:
To assemble the top, you need to sew the sides together.
Grab your sewing needle, and start sewing the sides of
the your top from the bottom to the top. Make sure that
you leave enough space (your M3) for your arms, and try
it on before you fasten off. Repeat on the other side.
After assembling the top, you can choose to make a row
of SC around the neckline of the top. Do this by attaching your yarn above the
tie, CH1, SC in the same stitch and make 2 SC across every row of DC and in
every stitch across the front panels. Make your final stitch in the row before the
tie on the other front panel and fasten off.
If you want to make the sleeveless version, you can sew in the loose ends,
and your vest is done! If you want to add sleeves, continue with the
instructions of the sleeves below.

Sleeves:
Step 1. If you want your sleeves to be flowy, I recommend to size up a hook
from this step on. Make sure you tried the top on, before you continue with the
sleeves, since you do not want to be your sleeves too tight. Attach your yarn
somewhere around the armhole and CH1. SC all around your armhole, and
make sure that you make a multiple of 5 stitches. SL ST in the first SC you
made. Fasten off, and repeat on the other armhole as well. Make sure the
amount of SC is the same.

Step 2. Attach your yarn in a stitch of the previous row. CH2 (counts as your
first DC), and (DC, CH2, DC2) in the same stitch. *SK 4 stitches, and (2DC,
CH2, 2DC) in the next stitch.* Repeat the part between the * until the end of
the row. SL ST in the second CH of the CH2 you made at the beginning of the
row.

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Step 3. SL ST until you are in the CH2 space between the DC. CH2 (counts
as your first DC) and (DC, CH2, 2DC) in the same stitch. *(2DC, CH2, 2DC) in
the next CH2 space.* and repeat the part between the * until the end of the
row. SL ST in the second CH of the CH2 you made at the begining of the row.

Step 4. Repeat step 3 until you are happy with the length of the sleeves (your
M4) and repeat steps 2-4 on the other side as well. Fasten off, weave in your
loose ends and your Blossoming Top is ready to be worn!

I hope you enjoyed making your Blossoming Top, if you

want to share photos of your finished top, you can tag me
on Instagram @Femmescrochet

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