Jolly Rancher

by Even Howard
This overskirt is like putting on a sweater, just lower down. Of a rather
chunky weight, it is quick to work up on big hooks and just a little bit delicate
with a Kid Silk Haze trim and a nice bell shape.

I’m so happy to be in Montana where little sheep are running free and being chased by
wolves. No, really! Except instead of wolves it is more like coyotes or mountain lions. The
yarn I’ve used for this skirt is certified ‘predator friendly’ meaning that the farm is run with
respect for all living things, not just the cute ones. You can read more about it at
www.lambandwool.com . It’s certified organic too! I hope you’ll try ordering from them or
poke around for a local homespun in your neck of the woods.

I’ve had a bit of culture (and temperature) shock since leaving Japan and I was bemoaning
the nippy winds that prevent me from wearing my summer skirt collection during winter.
Cozy yarn to the rescue! This overskirt is like putting on a sweater, just lower down. Of a
rather chunky weight, it is quick to work up on big hooks and just a little bit delicate with a
Kid Silk Haze trim and a nice bell shape. You can wear it over skirts or pants, depending on
how weird you want to look. Either way, you’ll be warm. Plus the rhythm of crochet might
help you realize where you are and that it is okay (at least it does for me).

Materials List:
-Thirteen Mile Yarn (A) 2 skeins at ~110yds/skein. The color is a natural chocolate brown that
comes straight off the sheep. This is a ‘chunky’ weight yarn usually used with size 11 knitting
needles.
-1 ball of Rowan’s Kid Silk Haze (B) in Villian (25g per 229yds). You could substitute another
lightweight yarn easily, in either a tonal or contrast color. The gauge isn’t crucial for the trim.
-Hook sizes F/5 (4mm), and L/11 (8mm), M (9mm), N (10mm), and P (11.5mm)
¾ ”- to 2 ”-wide ribbon or other belting material, long enough to go around your low waist and tie
in a friendly bow. The picture shows a 3/4"-wide knit belt that is 56" long.
Finished Size:
Pattern as written has a 36-inch dropped waist that stretches to 42 inches and can be tightened to 32
inches without looking odd. You can add or remove a pattern repeat to change size 3 inches at a
time (details included in pattern).

Gauge:
10 stitches = 4in, 10cm; 10 rows = 4in, 10cm in single crochet with yarn A and 8mm hook.

Notes:
The turning chain does not count as a stitch unless indicated.
Be sure to read the pattern all the way through before beginning.

-
Pattern Begin: Waistband
With 8mm hook and thick yarn (A), chain 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain and in each chain

across. Ch 1and turn.

Row 2: Work sc in each stitch across. Ch 1

and turn.

Repeat row 2 as follows: Work a total of 72

rows for 33-inch, 80 rows for size 36-inch, and
88 rows for 39-inch. If you would like to make
it larger or smaller make sure the total number
of rows can be divided evenly by 8. At the
same time, on every 6th and 8th row work a
button hole row as follows: Sc in each of first 2
sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in each of last 2 sts. Ch1
and turn. Work sc across the next row, working
2 sc in the ch-2 space.

After final row, sl st edges together to form a

loop and turn right side out (sl st edge goes
inside). Turn work to long edge, ch 1 and work
one sc stitch per row along one side. The total
number of sc must equal your number of rows
for the lace pattern to work, so be sure and
check!

Skirt body
Round 1: Continuing with 8mm hook, ch1 and sc1 in same space. *Ch3, sk 3 sc, (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in
next sc, ch 3, sk 3 sc**, 1sc in next sc*. Repeat * to *around, ending the last repeat at **. Ch3, sl
st in first sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 4 (counts as a tr). * Skip the first ch-3 space. Work (1tr, ch3) four times in the next
ch-3 space. Work 1 tr in the same ch-3 space. Skip next ch-3 space** and tr into sc st*. Repeat
* to * around, ending the last repeat at **. Sl st into top of ch 4 to join.

Round 3: Ch 1 and sc in same space. * Ch 4. Skip next ch-3 space. Sc in next ch-3 space, ch3, sc
in next ch-3 space, ch 4, skip next ch-3 space**, sc in tr st *. Repeat * to * across, ending last
repeat at **. Sl st into first sc to join.

Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc). * Ch 3, skip ch-4 space. Work (1dc, ch 3, 1dc) in next ch-3 space.
Ch 3. Skip ch-4 space.** Dc in next sc *. Repeat * to * around, ending the last repeat at **. Sl st
into top of ch 3 to join.

Repeat rounds 2-4 to continue skirt body. At the same time, on every 5th round, change hook size
to 1mm larger, beginning with Round 5. (Round 5 = 9mm hook, Round 10 = 10mm hook, Round
15 = 11mm hook). Skirt as shown is 15 rounds long and ended on a round-3 pattern. Feel free to
add more if you like.

Edging
Round 1: With size 11mm hook and thick yarn
(A), ch 1. Working only in the chain spaces, work
sc around placing 5 sc sts in each ch-4 space and 4
sc sts in each ch-3 space. Skip all sc stitches from
the previous row. Sl st into first sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 1. Working in front loops only, sc in

each of first 2 sts, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next sc (picot
made),* sc in each of next 8 sts, make picot in next
st **, sc in each of next 4 sts, make picot in next
st*. Repeat around, ending the last repeat at **
and two sts remaining. Sc in each of the last 2 sts
and sl st into first sc to close. Tie off yarn and
weave in end.

Round 3: Change to F hook and join Kid Silk

Haze (B).Work 1 sc into the back loop of the sc
below. Continuing in the back loops only, work *
Ch 5, sc in next sc * around. Pass behind picots,
skipping the chain stitches and working in the
backs of each sc. Ch 5 and sl st into first sc to
join.

Round 4: Sl st up first 3 chains to begin at the middle of the ch-5 space. Sc in ch-5 space. *In
next ch-5 space, work (1tr, ch 2) 4 times. Tr once more in same space **. Sc in next ch-5 space
*. Repeat around, ending last repeat at **. Sl st into first sc to join. Tie off and weave in ends.

Round 5: With size 11.5mm hook, join yarn (A) to remaining back loops of round 2. Ch 4
(counts as a dc plus 1 ch). * Skip one sc and dc into next sc. Ch 1. * Repeat * to * around. Skip
last stitch and sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch 4 to join.

Repeat Round 5 twice more. Tie off and weave in ends.

 Finishing
Weave ribbon or other belt through the button holes (I used a thin knit belt from an old sweater).
Finish ribbon ends by clipping them in a ‘V’ shape so they won’t fray. I didn’t block this skirt, but
if you want to, go right ahead! You can wear a slip or an a-line, flared, bias cut, or pencil skirt
underneath easily, but please experiment with other shapes and let me know how it goes!

Even Howard is a vagabond

crocheter who loves creating
ways for others to experiment.
Local yarns, crochet stitch
structures and their uses, and
snow in spring are among her
favorite things.

If you like this pattern, please

donate to Even’s Paypal
account at
evenvista@hotmail.com

Even’s designs can be found on

her website
www.evenhoward.com,
www.crochetme.com,
and Interweave Press’ Crochet.

www.evenhoward.com even@evenhoward.com ravelry id: evenhoward