Version 2

Rosenmalva (rose mallow) - crocheted summer top

An airy, easy-to-wear V-neck top with the crisp feel, shining luster, and flowing drape that only linen can give. The model is worked
with chain stitches, single and double crochet in a simple pattern that provides just enough structure to bring out line’s
characteristics and let the yarn’s quality speak for itself. The top is crocheted from the bottom up in two pieces and crocheted
together the shoulders and sides.

YARN CYCA #3 (DK, light worsted), Järbo Lin (100% linen, 219 yd/200 m / 100 g)
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS
CYCA #1 (fingering), Colin (65% cotton, 35% linen, 164 yd/150 m / 50 g)
CYCA #2 (sport), Elise (60% cotton, 40% acrylic, 184 yd/170 m / 50 g)
GAUGE
Approx. 18 sc x 22 rows with hook U. S. D-3 / 3.5 mm = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm.
/ Approx. 17 dc (8.5 V-sts) x 10 rows with hook U. S. D-3 / 3.5 mm = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm
Adjust hook size to obtain correct gauge if necessary.
SIZES - WOMEN’S XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
To fit CHEST Approx. 31½ (34¾, 37¾, 41, 45¾, 50½, 55¼, 59¾) in / 80 (88, 96, 104, 116, 128, 140, 152) cm
POSITIVE EASE Approx. 4-6 in / 10-15 cm
GARMENT MEASUREMENTS-CHEST Approx. 35 (38½, 42½, 46, 49¾, 55¼, 61, 64½) in / 89 (98, 108, 117, 126, 140, 155, 164)
cm
TOTAL LENGTH (front) Approx. 20½ (20½, 21¾, 22, 23¾, 24¾, 26¾, 27½) in / 52 (52, 55, 56, 60, 63, 68, 70) cm
YARN COLOR AND AMOUNTS
Approx. 300 (330, 370, 400, 430, 480, 530, 560) g (color 48108, Moody Blue)
HOOK U. S. size E-4 / 3.5 mm
NOTIONS Stitch markers
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY *

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

To bring out the fine drape and silky feel of linen, it is important to hand wash and dry the garment flat before wearing it. At first,
linen might feel unfamiliar and a little tricky to crochet with. You’ll need a bit of patience and practice before the work goes
smoothly. You might need to try several crochet hooks or hold the hook a new way. In compensation, the pattern only uses simple
stitches and you’ll have a classic and useful result which is well worth any trouble!

Rows with V-stitches begin with 2 chain stitches to substitute for (and count as) 1 double crochet. To make it easier, place a marker
in the second of the two chain stitches so you can see where the last stitch on the next row should be placed. Be careful not to
work the chain stitches too tightly because that will draw the sides in.

NOTE U. S. crochet terms are used throughout pattern.

Chain stitch (ch st): Make a slip knot to begin and bring the yarn through the loop. *Yarn around hook and through loop on hook.
Rep from *.
Slip stitch (sl st): Insert hook into a st of previous row/rnd, yarn around hook and through st and loop on hook.
Single crochet (sc; = British double crochet): Insert hook into a st of previous row/rnd, yarn around hook and bring yarn through (=
2 loops on hook). Yarn around hook and through the 2 loops on hook.
Double crochet (dc; = British treble crochet): Yarn around hook, insert hook into a st of previous row/rnd, yarn around hook, and
bring yarn through (= 3 loops on hook). Yarn around hook and through first 2 loops on hook. Yarn around hook and through rem 2
loops on hook.
V-stitch/V-stitches (V-st): Work 2 dc into same stitch.
Tc: Turning chain = the chain sts at beginning of a new row.

FRONT
Lower edge in single crochet:
Ch 74 (82, 90, 98, 106, 118, 130, 138).

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: info@jarbo.se Designer: Anna Erlandsson Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each of the following ch; turn = 73 (81, 89, 97, 105, 117, 129, 137) sc.
Rows 2-7: Ch 1 (do not count s st), work 1 sc in each st across; turn = 73 (81, 89, 97, 105, 117, 129, 137) sc.

The rest of the top is worked in V-stitches:

Row 1: Ch 2 (= 1st dc), skip next st, *2 dc in next st (= 1 V), skip next st*; rep * to * across, dc in last st (= in top of turning ch 2);
turn: = 35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 57, 63, 67) V-sts + 1 dc at each side.
Rows 2-30 (30, 33, 34, 38, 41, 46, 48): Ch 2 (= 1st dc), 2 dc in space between the 2 dc of next V-st, *V-st in V-st*; rep * to * across,
ending with 1 dc in last st (= in top of turning ch 2); turn = 35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 57, 63, 67) V-sts + 1 dc at each side.
Pm in V-st at center of row 30 (30, 33, 34, 38, 41, 46, 48). Do not cut yarn but proceed to next steps below.

Neck Shaping – left side:

Left, Row 1: Ch 2 (= 1st dc), 2 dc in space between the 2 dc of next V-st, *V-st in V-st*; rep * to * marker at center of front, dc in
marked st; turn = 17 (19, 21, 23, 25, 28, 31, 33) V-sts + 1 dc at each side. Leave maker in place.
Left, Row 2: Sl st to first V-st, ch 3 (= 1st dc), dc in same V-st (ch 3 + dc = first V-st of row), *V-st in V-st*; rep * to * across, 1 dc in
top of tc; turn = 17 (19, 21, 23, 25, 28, 31, 33) V-sts + 1 dc at one side.
Left, Row 3: Ch 2 (= 1st dc), 2 dc in space between the 2 dc of next V-st, *V-st in V-st*; rep * to * last V-st (= ch 3 + 1 dc), dc in last
V-st; turn = 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 27, 30, 32) V-sts + 1 dc at each side.
Left, Row 4: Work as for Row 2 = 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 27, 30, 32) V-sts + 1 dc at one side.
Repeat Left Rows 3-4 7 more times (= a total of 18 decrease rows for all sizes) = 9 (11, 13, 15, 17, 20, 23, 25) V-sts + 1 dc at each
side. Cut yarn and fasten off.

Neck Shaping – right side:

Right, Row 1: Beginning at center of front at marked st, attach yarn and ch 3 (= 1st dc), 2 dc in space between the 2 dc of next V-
st, *V-st in V-st*; rep * to * across, dc in last st (= top of tc) = 17 (19, 21, 23, 25, 28, 31, 33) V-sts + 1 dc at each side.
Right, Row 2: Ch 2 (= 1st dc), 2 dc in space between the 2 dc of next V-st, *V-st in V-st*; rep * to * last V-st, turn (= 17 (19, 21, 23,
25, 28, 31, 33) V-sts + 1 dc at one side.
Right, Row 3: Sl st to space in center of first V-st, ch 3 (= 1st dc), 2 dc in space between 2 dc of next V-st, *V-st in V-st*; rep * to *
across, 1 dc in top of tc; turn = 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 27, 30, 32) V-sts + 1 dc at each side.
Right, Row 4: Work as for Row 2 = 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 27, 30, 32) V-sts + 1 dc at one side.
Repeat Right Rows 3-4 7 more times. (= a total of 18 decrease rows for all sizes) = 9 (11, 13, 15, 17, 20, 23, 25) V-sts + 1 dc at
each side. Cut yarn and fasten off.

BACK
Lower edge in single crochet:
Ch 74 (82, 90, 98, 106, 118, 130, 138).
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each of the following ch; turn = 73 (81, 89, 97, 105, 117, 129, 137) sc.
Rows 2-15: Ch 1 (do not count as st), work 1 sc in each st across; turn = 73 (81, 89, 97, 105, 117, 129, 137) sc.

The rest of the top is worked in V-stitches:

Row 1: Ch 2 (= 1st dc), skip next st, *2 dc in next st (= 1 V), skip next st*; rep * to * across, dc in last st (= in top of tc); turn: = 35
(39, 43, 47, 51, 57, 63, 67) V-sts + 1 dc at each side.
Rows 2-47 (47, 50, 51, 55, 58, 63 65): Ch 2 (= 1st dc), 2 dc in space between the 2 dc of next V-st, *V-st in V-st*; rep * to * across,
ending with 1 dc in last st (= in top of tc); turn = 35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 57, 63, 67) V-sts + 1 dc at each side. Cut yarn and fasten off.

FINISHING
Crochet shoulders together:
Now it’s time to join the front and back by crocheting the shoulders together. Lay the front and back in front of you, with both pieces
right side facing up, so that the shoulders of the front (1 in sketch) meet the shoulders of back (2 in sketch). Place the front with the
neck up/facing away from you and the back upside down with the shoulder down /facing you (see sketch).
Beginning in the outermost dc in top corner of front (see arrow on sketch), insert hook, bring yarn through and ch 1 (do not count as
a stitch), 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in opposite dc in top corner of back, ch 2, 1 sc in first V-st on front, ch 2, 1 sc in first V-st on back *ch 2, 1
sc in next V-st on front, ch 2, 1 sc in corresponding V-st of back*; rep * to * in towards front neck until you have worked sc in all the
V-sts on top of front. Cut yarn and fasten off.
Repeat for right shoulder but turn the piece 180° so you can begin in the outermost dc of corner on back instead and work in
towards front neck.

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: info@jarbo.se Designer: Anna Erlandsson Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Crochet sides together:
Right side: Arrange front and back with right sides facing out. Beginning on 4th V-st row from bottom edge of back, insert hook
around dc furthest out on edge on this row, bring yarn through and ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc around
corresponding dc on front (in other words, the edge dc on 4th V-st row on front).
*Ch 2, 1 sc around edge dc in 5th V-st row of back, ch 2, 1 sc around corresponding dc of front*; rep * to * through V-st row 30 (29,
31, 31, 33, 34, 38, 39) from bottom edge, in both front and back, or until you have a long enough armhole. Cut yarn and fasten off.
Left side: Work as for right side but begin in 4th V-st row of front.

SLEEVES
Beginning at center of underarm, work 7 rows sc around armhole. End each row with a sl st into 1st sc and turn after each row so
the edging will have the same look as on lower edge of top. Each row begins with ch 1 (do not count as a stitch). Alternately work 1
sc and 2 sc along side of the V-st rows. At both shoulder seam and at center of underarm, work 4 sc = 59 (62, 65, 68, 74, 80, 83,
86) sc around sleeve. Cut yarn and fasten off. Work both sleeves the same way.

NECK EDGING
Work sc around neckline. With RS facing you, insert hook between the dc of a V-st on back neck, bring yarn through and ch 1 (do
not count as a stitch), work 2 sc in each V-st along back neck, work 4 sc in each shoulder seam, alternate 2 then 3 sc per row
along V-neck, end row with a sl st into 1st sc. An exact stitch count is not important – just make sure that the edging looks nice.
Cut yarn and fasten off.

SPLIT HEM EDGING

Your top will look especially nice if you work a row of sc all along the lower edge of the top, including the split hem. Begin at a
corner of lower edge of back. Work sc in each st on lower edge of back and front. When rounding a corner, work 3 sc in the corner.
On the split hem, work about 1 sc on the side of each row of sc and 2 sc on the side of each V-st row. End with a sl st into 1st sc.
An exact stitch count is not important – just make sure that the edging looks nice. If the edging draws in, you need more sts; the
edge will be wavy if you have too many sts. Cut yarn and fasten off.
Hand wash top and lay flat to dry.

MEASUREMENTS
A 35 (38½, 42½, 46, 49¾, 55¼, 61, 64½) in / 89 (98, 108, 117, 126, 140, 155, 164) cm
B 20½ (20½, 21¾, 22, 23¾, 24¾, 26¾, 27½) in / 52 (52, 55, 56, 60, 63, 68, 70) cm
C 6¾ (7, 7½, 8, 8¾, 9½, 9¾, 10¼) in / 17 (18, 19, 20, 22, 24, 25, 26) cm
D 13½ (13½, 13¾, 13¾, 14½, 15, 16½, 17) in / 34 (34, 35, 35, 37, 38, 42, 43) cm
E 8¼ ( 8¼, 8¼, 8¼, 8¼, 8¼, 8¼, 8¼) in / 21 (21, 21, 21, 21, 21, 21, 21) cm
F 13½ (14¼, 15, 15¾, 17¼, 19, 19¾, 21) in / 34 (36, 38, 40, 44, 48, 50, 53) cm

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: info@jarbo.se Designer: Anna Erlandsson Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: info@jarbo.se Designer: Anna Erlandsson Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål
Tips & Shortcuts

To avoid questions: Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern.
Stitch count: Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as recommended in the pattern. If your stitch count doesn’t match the gauge
given in the pattern, try again with larger or smaller needles or hook. If your gauge doesn’t match that in the pattern, your item will
not be the correct size or shape.
Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the pattern to make it easier to follow the instructions.
Charts: It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row with a ruler and magnetic board or sticky note.
Ease: The amount of ease included in our garments varies depending on the type and shape of the garment. To determine the
right size, we recommend that you first measure your body. Then you can calculate the garment size depending on how much ease
you want the garment to have. The schematics for each piece show all the garment measurements.
Two-color stranded knitting: When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same color, twist the color strands around each other on
the wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several rows/rounds, make sure you
do not stack the twists in the same place to prevent the yarns from showing through on the right side.
Yarn alternative: Please be aware that the gauge (tension), yarn quantity and the shape of the work varies if you use another yarn
(even in the same yarn group).
Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from time to time. To get
a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.

Abbreviations

KNITTING
alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, BO = bind off, cc = contrasting color, cn = cable needle, CO
= cast on, col = color, cont = continue, dec = decrease, dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, EOR = end of row/round, fl = front loop, g
st = garter stitch, inc = increase, k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k = knit (stitch), k2tog = knit two stitches
together (right-slanting decrease), kw = knitwise, LH = left hand needle, m = marker, mm = millimeters, mc = main color, p = purl
(stitch), patt = pattern, pm = place marker, pw = purlwise, rep = repeat, rnd(s) = round/rounds, RH = right hand needle, RM =
remove marker, RS = right side, sl = slip, sl m = slip marker, ssk = slip, slip, knit, st(s) = stitches, St st = stockinette/stocking stitch,
tog = together, WS = wrong side, wyib = with yarn in back, wyif = with yarn in front, yo = yarn over

CROCHETING
approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, ch = chain stitch, col = color, cont = continue, dc = double crochet, dec =
decrease, dtr = double treble crochet, fl = front loop, hdc = half double crochet, htr = half treble crochet, inc = increase, m =
marker, mc = main color, rep = repeat, rnd/rnds = round/rounds, RS = right side, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, sts =
stitches, tog = together, tr = treble crochet, tr tr = triple treble crochet, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over

COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Any form of reproduction or publication without express written permission from Järbo Garn AB is forbidden.
Yarn information: info@jarbo.se Designer: Anna Erlandsson Translator: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Photo: Daniel Bernstål