WARP

weave a real peace

Volume 21, Number 1 Spring 2014

Suzani Embroidery Lives On in Uzbekistan

Azizbek Gulyamov and Linda Temple
Azizbek Gulyamov of Bukhara, Uzbeki- a group of Suzanis with the name The Little Silk Road
Mission
WARP serves as a catalyst
stan, is the owner of the Little Silk Road popped up, you can imagine what my eyes did. I wrote to
Aziz to learn more about the construction of these Suza- for improving the quality of
Shop in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. WARP member
Sandy Gally explains how she “met” Azizbek: nis. What a delight to learn that he is very concerned with life of textile artisans
keeping this traditional method alive as well as providing in communities-in-need.
income to the women of the area. I am now waiting for We provide information and
my Suzani to arrive. My next step is to visit Aziz in networking opportunities
to individuals and organizations
who value the social, cultural,
historical, and artistic
importance of textiles
around the world.

Core Values
“My eye zooms in on anything, word, picture or descrip-
tion that pertains to the Silk Road. Everything about it Textiles are an important
was exotic, the colors, the fragrances which I knew I could component of the human
smell, and especially the designs on the fabrics. When I Bukhara and see the process from the handweaving of the experience.
background cloth to putting the design on this cloth with
the hook that is used.” Providing support to textile
Sandy persuaded Aziz to tell us about his artisans from communities-in-need
passion for Suzanis. He writes: gives them tools to shape their own
destinies.
I grew up with the beauty of Suzani and
learned the secrets of Suzani in my youth. My Networking and sharing
love and appreciation for Suzani made me information creates an environment
for constructive action.
Making connections among textile
artisans worldwide promotes
positive social change.
was a very young child my mother hated to sew, so when Interacting with people who have
she had to sew, she would hand me a piece of fabric with a similar values enriches our lives.
threaded needle and I was kept happy for hours exploring
all the possibilities those three items would create. Also at
this time my parents read a lot to me and the more exotic
decide to keep this traditional and beautiful
the story and pictures were, the happier I was. My love af-
fair with all things fiber-related began at this time and has
art craft alive for the future. While "Suzani"
continued to this day. So when Aziz’s Facebook photo of means needlework, the word has become
continued on page 8

1 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2014

 Tinkuy de Tejedores: A Gathering of Weavers, Cusco, Peru –
WARP Members Who Attended Describe the Indescribable
Judy Allen
As a first-time attendee at Tinkuy de (CTTC) outdid themselves in hosting, hand-
Tejedores: A Gathering of Weavers, in ling logistics, and putting together a remark-
Cusco, Peru, (the first one was held in 2010), able line up of speakers and events, with the
WARP Newsletter I couldn’t wait to share my experience with help of many volunteers and board members.
published quarterly by WARP members who were not able to attend. I wish to thank everyone who made this event
Weave A Real Peace possible. It will live clearly in my memory for
Volume 21, Number 1 many years.
Spring 2014 Here are excerpts from the impressions
of some of the twelve WARP members who
Editor: Linda Temple attended the November 2013 event.
Send address corrections to:
info@weavearealpeace.org
or mail to
WARP Opening parade showing weavers from
3102 Classen Boulevard Argentina and Guatemala
PMB 249
Oklahoma City, OK 73118 How does one start to capture the color, pat-
terns, and textures of such an event? I hope
The deadline for through words and photos you can gain a
contributions to the Weavers from the Peruvian side of
sense of what it was like to be there – inde-
Summer issue of the WARP Lake Titicaca area
newsletter is
Linda Ligon - “I was struck by how attentive the
June 14, 2014
weavers were to the work of their counterparts from
Send articles and other countries--how much active curiosity and learning
correspondence for was happening. Along with this was the validation
the newsletter to: that indigenous weavers received for the value of their
Linda Temple work and their traditions. It will be interesting to see
1230 NE 70 the reverberations over the next few years.”
Oklahoma City, OK 73111 Cathie Joslyn - “From the weavers parade to the
lgtemple@juno.com Nilda and Andean Textile Arts Board workshops, speakers, artisan displays, fashion show,
405/478-4936 (phone) - from right to left behind the banner are spin-in, honoring the ancestors, exhibits, opportunities
413/622-1504 (fax) WARP members, Linda Ligon, Marilyn
Murphy, Betty Doerr.
Information about an
scribable, heartwarming, and at times just plain
organization or service in this
newsletter does not constitute overwhelming.
an endorsement by WARP. Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez and the staff of
the Center for Traditional Textiles of Cusco
Close up of Lake Titicaca area belts woven by
Submissions may be Nan Brown's goddaughter and her husband
edited or shortened at the
discretion of the editor. to dance and to interact with weaving friends old and
new--just everything was excellent. Having teachers
from amongst the native weavers was very impressive;
they did such a good job. The homage to Christine
Franquemont was appropriately touching, and gave the
whole affair an extra poignancy. Three words to cap-
WARP member Nan Brown enjoying the op- ture the experience - rich, humbling, and amazing.”
portunity to spend time with goddaughter and Marilyn Murphy - “What a grand gathering
husband, both weavers from Lake Titicaca and one hard to put into a few words: Colorful, in-
spiring, and grateful. What a treat seeing the weavers
teach each other, to watch the constant whirling of
continued on page 12

2 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2014

 Hurry! You Can Still Register for Annual Meeting!
Kelsey Wiskirchen
Register before April 15, and include the artisan-made textiles. For over thirty-five
late fee, and you can attend all events at the years, Joe Coca has maintained a popular pho-
outstanding WARP Annual Meeting in May! tography studio in Fort Collins, CO. He travels
If you wish to register for Saturday events the world photographing people, places, and Weave A Real Peace
only, send your Registration before May 8. things, in particular handcrafted textiles. His www.weavearealpeace.org
Use the Registration form on the website, work for Interweave Press is well known by Membership Information
www.weavearealpeace.org, or in the Winter most textile artists.
2014 Annual Dues
issue of the newsletter. In the afternoon, attendees are invited to
* $35 - Individual, U.S. and
This year's meeting will be held May 9 - participate in a natural dye potluck hosted Canada
11, 2014 at the Pallottine Renewal Center in by WARP members Karen Searle and Judy * $40 - Individual,
Florissant, MO. We will begin the weekend on Newland. The presenters will give participants international and sister
Friday afternoon at the St. Louis Art Museum. a hands-on introduction into the fascinating memberships
We will visit with Zoe Perkins, the curator of world of adding color to cloth. Attendees * Simple living - Choose an
the museum and of the current textile exhibi- of the afternoon event are invited to bring a amount you can live with
tion, Mother Earth, Father Sky: Textiles small piece of cloth or skein of yarn to dye in * $50 - Group/supporting
from the Navajo World. a number of dye vats. (Attendees will receive * $100+ - Patron/donor
We have a dynamic day planned for Satur- more information prior to the meeting.)
All memberships are based on
day, and have invited local and regional guilds During Saturday’s public Marketplace the calendar year and expire on
and students at universities surrounding the hours, there will be a book signing by Joe December 31. Members receive
St. Louis area to attend. Coca and a display of portraits from Faces access to all
Saturday's featured speakers include a of Tradition. In the evening, local guests will publications for the year joined.
morning talk by Linda Ligon and Joe Coca be invited to stay for dinner and the auction
about the making of Faces of Tradition: fundraiser. Those interested in attending Sat- Members have access to
Weaving Elders of the Andes, a book of urday's events are strongly urged to purchase annual Membership Directory
portraits that features weaving elders from tickets in advance, as dining seating is limited. through a secure members only
the highlands of Peru published by Thrums To learn more about Thrums Books visit section of the web site, a quarter-
ly newsletter, and can participate
Books. Linda Ligon is the founder of Inter- www.thrumsbooks.com.
in the WARP
weave, the largest publisher of spinning and For information about the Pallottine Yahoo Discussion Group.
weaving media in the world and of Thrums Renewal Center, please see www.pallottinere-
Books, publishers of books on traditional newal.org. Dues are used for printing, mail-
ing, and office expenses. Weave
A Real Peace (WARP) is desig-
What’s in this newsletter... nated a 501(c)(3) nonprofit
organization by the Internal
Suzani Embroidery Lives on in Uzbekistan....................................................1 Revenue Service.
Tinkuy de Tejedores: A Gathering of Weavers..............................................2 All donations to WARP
WARP’s 2014 Annual Meeting..........................................................................3 are tax deductible in the
From the WARP Office.....................................................................................4 United States.

Artisan Textile Resource Guide........................................................................4 For membership or additional

Marketplace at Annual Meeting........................................................................4 information, please send your
A Word from the Blog-o-Sphere......................................................................5 name, address, telephone
number, and email address with
Travel Opportunities..........................................................................................5 appropriate check, money order,
Behind the Cloth.................................................................................................6 or Paypal
New Members........................................................................................6, 7, 8, 9 information in US funds
payable to WARP to:
Textile Techniques - Piña Cloth........................................................................7
Looking for a Weaving Adventure?..................................................................8 Weave A Real Peace
Member Profile: Katie Simmons......................................................................9 3102 Classen Boulevard
Artisan Profile....................................................................................................10 PMB 249
Oklahoma City, OK 73118
WARP’s Silent and Live Auctions Need Donations....................................10
Women of the World: Textiles and Tradition...............................................11 or join online at
Thanks to WARP Donors...............................................................................11 www.weavearealpeace.org

WARP Newsletter - Spring 2014 3

 From the WARP Office...
Judy Allen, Administrative Coordinator
I am wishing for warmer Textile Resources: A Guide to Global
weather to arrive in New Eng- Handmade Textiles. This new initiative is
WARP Governing land. To think that as I write led by board member Jackie Abrams, along
Board this column for the WARP with Philis Alvic, Mary Joan Ferrara-Marsland,
Jackie Abrams Spring Newsletter I am watch- and Marilyn Murphy, and with help from Judy
Brattleboro, VT ing large lacy snowflakes fall Allen and Liz Gipson.
802/257-2688 and that today when I got up, Kelsey Wiskirchen and her program and
jackieabramsvt@gmail.com it was a mere 13 degrees makes it more than local arrangements committee are getting
Term expires 2016 a little difficult to “think spring”! ready for St Louis in May. It is not too late to
However, I would urge you to “think decide to join us – you will find information
Teena Jennings-Rentenaar
Granville, OH spring” and also think membership renewal about the meeting in this newsletter on page
740/587-4058 – for those of you who have not taken care 3 and on the web site under the about button
tj9@uakron.edu of paying your 2014 dues. Payments from or directly at http://weavearealpeace.org/an-
Term expires 2014 members received after 3/31 can’t be assured nual.html If you can’t join us, please consider
to be included in the 2014 spring edition sending in items for the silent/live auction.
Kathryn Keegan of the membership directory which will be See details on page 10 of this newsletter.
Birchrunville, PA
posted to the web site in April. Also you will I hope the spring sun finds you smiling as
610/827-7975
birchrunstudio@gmail.com
risk not being included (if you are interested you read this newsletter.
Term expires 2015 and meet qualifications) in the new benefit Judy can be reached at info@weavearealpeace.org
for members that is described below, Artisan
Cindy Lair
Boulder, CO
303/443-4013
laircowgirl@msn.com
Artisan Textile Resource Guide Under Development
Term expires 2014 A textile resource guide is currently being short narrative, basic contact information,
developed to assist WARP members who of- their company logo, and up to three images
Judy Newland fer products or services connect with more representing their products. These listings will
Tempe, AZ be compiled into a professionally-designed
480/280-2185
customers. At the last WARP meeting in Man-
chester, NH, a committee formed to look into resource guide.
newland.judy@gmail.com
Term expires 2015 ways WARP could be of service to members Inclusion in the guide will be free and then
who produce and market artisan-made textile the guide—as a downloadable pdf—will be
Karen Searle items on a national or international level. As free to members and made available free to a
St. Paul, MN the committee evaluated possibilities, the wider audience. At this point, the guide will be
651/338-1698 available online, but may see a print version in
scope of the project expanded to include
ksearleart@gmail.com
services that many of our members provide the future. If all goes according to plan the Ar-
Term expires 2015
such as consulting, designing, textile preserva- tisan Textile Resources: A Guide to Global
Katie Simmons tion, curating, and tour operating. Handmade Textiles will be presented at the
Cleveland, OH A call has gone out to WARP members May annual meeting in St. Louis.
330/289-8218 to participate. All members who choose to
ktd26@hotmail.com Resource Guide Committee – Jackie Abrams, Philis
be included will provide a short description Alvic, Mary Joan Ferrara-Marsland, and Marilyn
Term expires 2016
of their wholesale and/or retail products or Murphy, with help from Judy Allen and Liz Gipson
Kelsey Wiskirchen the services they offer. Included will be a
St. Louis, MO
660/626-3154
kelsey.viola.wiskirchen@
gmail.com
Term expires 2016
Marketplace at the Annual Meeting
All WARP members attending the annual meeting may have a space at the Marketplace, open
Administrative throughout the meeting. To reserve a table(s), contact Kathryn Keegan, birchrunstudio@gmail.
Coordinator com, 610/827-7975, prior to the meeting. All vendors are asked to pay 10% of their sales to
Judy Allen WARP. Set up can be anytime after Friday registration and left in place through the duration
info@weavearealpeace.org
of the meeting. The room will be locked when not in use. If you intend to ship merchandise,
contact Kathryn for shipping info.

4 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2014

 A Word from the Blog-O-Sphere
Liz Gipson
During the past six months, WARP's Rug Hooking Cooperative of Guatemala)
public presence has been reinvigorated by was accepted into the 2014 International Folk
the establishment of a blog Art Market, July 11 – 14. We spoke to one of Textile Odyssey Tours
and regular social media their delegates to this year’s market. Reyna Indonesia: Bali, Sulawesi,
postings. Our members and Pretzantzin is thirty-one years old and attends Flores, Sumba, Nusa Penida
people like them provide Rafael Landivar University studying for her and Timor - August 2014
so many wonderful sto- bachelor’s degree in Business Administration. Myanmar - January 2015
ries, tips, and ideas that are Reyna has over five years’ experience of work- Southwest China -
meant to be shared. This is, after all, one of April 2015
the main reasons WARP exists. Vietnam and Cambodia –
There’s an underlying principle in market-
Fall 2015
ing that you need to have multiple “taps” with
For photos and more info
an individual before your message becomes
creditable and actionable. Social media pro- go to www.textileodyssey.
vides us a way to lightly and persistently tap com, or contact
on the shoulders of many textile enthusiasts textile_odyssey5@yahoo.
that are unaware of the work of WARP. It is com
thrilling each time a new friend likes us on
Facebook and shares a post with their friends. Tribal Weavings of the
Over time, some of these new friends will ing in product development and fair trade with Lesser Sunda Islands,
become members and in turn some of these indigenous Maya women. She speaks English, May 8 to 19, 2014
new members will become leaders. Spanish, and Kaqchikel fluently. For more details see
It has been such an honor to help get this www.seatrekbali.com/
effort up and running. The women that run What is the history of the Cooperative? cruise/tribal-weaving-of-
WARP (and right now they are all women) are The Cooperativa de Alfombras de Mu- the-lesser-sunda-islands/
committed to the organization’s belief that jeres Maya en Guatemala grew from Mary or contact David and Sue
textiles are an important part of the human Anne Wise’s and Jody Slocum’s, co-founders Richardson directly at davi-
experience and their production can make of Cultural Cloth (www.culturalcloth.com), dandsue@qaraqalpaq.com
a difference to the lives of people living in original rug hooking project in Guatemala.
communities-in-need. Mary Anne Wise gave her first rug hooking Noble Journeys
Katie Simmons, Kelsey Wiskirchen, and workshop in Guatemala in June 2009. Its suc- Experiential, educational, fun
Cindy Lair have provided guidance during this cess led to other workshops where she taught and delicious tours to
six month project. We are working on a tran- students more advanced techniques. In 2012, Morocco, Peru, South East
sition plan for Kelsey and Katie to take over foundation support funded a Rug Hooking Asia, Italy for small groups
the job of posting on the social media sites Teacher Training Program. A core group of & individuals!
and blog. If you have suggestions for them, seven women were trained to teach others rug
you can e-mail ktd26@hotmail.com (Katie) or hooking techniques. Today, over fifty women INSIDE MOROCCO
kelsey.viola.wiskirchen@gmail.com (Kelsey). from six highland villages are rug hooking, May 16-30, 2015, led by
If you haven't already, please visit the blog and we have organized ourselves into a co- Dr. Susan Davis
at www.weavearealpeace.wordpress.com and operative. Our folk art combines the art of
like us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/ rug hooking with design elements and colors TEXTILE ARTS OF
pages/Weave-A-Real-Peace/87877319753 inspired by motifs present in the traditional MOROCCO May 30-June 12,
or just search for Weave A Real Peace. If you clothing, folklore, and culture of Guatemala. 2015, led by Dr. Susan Davis
have any questions about this project, please For the full interview, and to read other Both of these sold out for
feel free to e-mail me at gipson.liz@gmail. blog entries, go to www.weavearealpeace.org, 2014!
com. and click on ‘Blog.’
Read more about how the Cooperativa Noble Journeys
Excerpted from the Blog, January 24, 2014:. began in the Fall 2011 issue of the WARP www.noblejourneys.com
Newsletter, available online at www.weavea- joan@noblejourneys.com
800/566-9228
The Road from Guatemala to Santa Fe realpeace.org
Recently the Cooperativa de Alfombras de
Mujeres Maya en Guatemala (Maya Women’s

WARP Newsletter - Spring 2014 5

 Behind
Allison Havens
the Cloth
Anyone who has spent time in Guatemala However, while the women were experts in
can’t help but fall in love with the colorful the traditional art form of backstrap weav-
New Members textiles worn by indigenous people here. ing, they didn’t have the necessary skills to
Unfortunately, many fabrics and handmade start a business, many of them having never
Cathy Bickell
souvenirs common in tourist shops are actu- completed school.
(gift from Deb Chandler)
ally made in weaving workshops that employ Y’abal Handicrafts was formed in 2007,
988 North 75th Street
Boulder, CO 80303
workers to sew and weave at dirt-cheap wages. spearheaded by Melissa Wiams, and led work-
303/499-3045 While the items might be technically “hand- shops with the women on fair price calcula-
buzzcathy@aol.com made,” the purchase of the product is by no tion, administration, quality control, how to
means helping any individual artisan. form a board of directors, market trends, and
Edwina Bringle However, Y’abal Handicrafts is one of social themes such as self-esteem, teamwork,
(gift from Donna Brown) the Fair Trade businesses in Guatemala trying and health issues. Finally, in 2010 Y’abal
1783 Conley Ridge Rd to change this system of labor exploitation. Handicrafts opened a store in the city of
Bakersville, NC 28705 Y’abal works with three cooperatives of back- Quetzaltenango and incorporated two nearby
828/765-8640 (h) strap weavers in the highlands of Guatemala cooperatives of back-strap weavers, from
edwcorgi@yahoo.com in a social enterprise to offer dignified job Chuacruz in Sololá and Chirijoix in Nahuala,
cynthiabringlepottery.com opportunities to indigenous women. into the project as well. Later, natural-dyed
Y’abal was started by a Dutch woman, wool blankets and rugs from a family weaving
Mary Burkhart (gift from Yetvan Oenen, to provide emergency relief business in Momostenango were included.
Geraldine Woodhouse) to two indigenous coastal communities, Pa- Y’abal pays the women above market
300 Willow Creek Road cutama and Chuicutama, destroyed in the prices for their handmade products and pro-
Auburn, AL 36832 aftermath of Hurricane Stan in 2005. Y’abal vides both a local and international market
burkhmq@auburn.edu helped in the relocation of the villages to for their work. By providing an economic
government donated land 3,000 meters above incentive for this beautiful art form, Y’abal
Nancy Drake sea, near Santa Catarina Ixtahuacan. Y’abal hopes to preserve the centuries-old weaving
(gift from Deb Chandler) provided first aid, a medical clinic, food, cloth- traditions and provide income for the weavers.
5955 Central Avenue ing, blankets, educational activities, and found The website for Y’abal Handicrafts is
Anacortes, WA 98221
funding to build houses. http://www.yabal-handicrafts.com/
360/588-8448
However, a bigger obstacle in the com- Allison began her fair trade journey six years ago in
cndrake@wavecable.com
munities’ recovery soon became apparent Chicago helping manage a local fair trade store. Think-
Linden Rae Ellingson and
in the lack of a sustainable income for the ing to make a career change to focus on community art,
Dan Yost families. Traditionally banana and coffee she headed to Guatemala three years ago to work with
(gift from Deb Chandler) farmers on the coast, in their new homes high youth and make her home in Xela. However she soon
3616 West 10th Street in the mountains they found the soil to be found herself happily pulled back into the fair trade
Anacortes, WA 98221 infertile, unfit for crop cultivation. The men world a little over a year ago when she came in contact
360/588-9781 began traveling two hours each day to work with Y'abal Handicrafts who at the time was looking for
bi4now@comcast.net as day laborers on large plantations, barely someone with experience to help grow their international
earning enough to feed their families. Out business. Allison can be contacted at allison@yabal-
Alice Gansfield of desperation, the community approached handicrafts.com
4394 Apple Court Y’abal with the idea of starting a women’s
Boulder, CO 80301 weaving business so that the women could Y’abal Handicrafts is a Sister Member of WARP,
720/406-8890 contribute to the household earnings as well. sponsored by Joan Noble.
agansfield@gmail.com
2014 Newsletter Deadlines
Volume 21: Anticipated deadlines for receipt of copy:
V21N2 - Summer 2014 - June 13
V21N3 - Fall 2014 - August 15
V21N4 - Winter 2014 - November 14

Contact Linda Temple, lgtemple@juno.com, for publication guideline

6 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2014

 Textile Techniques F rom Arou nd the World
Deborah Brand on

More New Members

Philippines—Piña Cloth Azizbek Gulyamov
“It's really comfortable. More than a jacket airy fabric, she has to beat the weft down with (gift from Sandy Gally)
and tie. Roomy. Soft. It wears almost like a a light hand. Also, because of the fineness and N. Khuysainov 1
t-shirt.” texture of the fibers, she has to constantly Bukhara 200118, Uzbekistan
In November of 2013, my friend Tim monitor the warp for breakage. +998936249454
taught his classes wearing one of his barongs According to one school of thought, the littlesilkroadshop@gmail.com
to raise awareness for the victims of Hurri- Barong originated four centuries ago, when www.facebook.com/azizbek.
cane Yolanda in the Philippines. Though in a the Philippines were first colonized by the gulyamov
hurry on my way to class, I stopped dead in Spanish. Supposedly, the Spaniards forced
my tracks when I caught sight of him in the the natives to wear the sheer garments to pre- Sue Hintz-Siegrist
hallway—I'd seen plenty of fine weaving, but vent them from carrying concealed weapons. (gift from Deb Chandler)
nothing as fine as that. Another theory is that the thin, translucent 2770 Iliff Street
The Barong, short for Barong Tagalog, or piña cloth came to replace the cotton of the Boulder, CO 80305
dress of the Tagalog people, is the national original Tagalog dress as a way of coping with 303/543-9871
the heat and humidity of the Philippines. shsiegrist@earthlink.net
dress of the Philippines, and is worn by Fili-
pino men on special occasions. The Barong When Tim and his Filipino wife, Fran,
Janine Hunt
is a shirt that reaches the hips and is worn got married, they held wedding ceremonies
(gift from Deb Chandler)
untucked. Though the intricate embroidery in both the US and the Philippines. At their
7490 Hidden Cove Road
may be intriguing to some, to me the most church wedding in the States, Tim wore a Tux- Bainbridge Island, WA 98110
striking feature is the fabric—translucent and edo. But at the ceremony in the Philippines, 206/780-5131
lustrous piña cloth, woven out of pineapple he chose to wear a Barong Tagalog. “It's so stitchergal99@aol.com
fiber. lightweight and cool. You really want that in
The fibers for piña cloth are harvested the Philippines.” Pat Hunzeker
from mature leaves of a native variety—Red (gift from Deb Chandler)
Spanish Pineapple. Many artisans still extract Resources: 3235 Yarrow Court
the piña fibers by hand, scraping off the top http://www.youtube.com/watch?v= Wheat Ridge, CO 80033
layer of the leaf with a coconut husk or a yRvWiiGoOzI 303/202-1610
piece of broken china to expose the coarser http://tinyurl.com/p2th25c phunzeker@gmail.com
Bastos fiber, used for string.

 After she strips http://www.philippines.hvu.nl/clothes1.htm
off the Bastos fiber, she repeats the process to http://tinyurl.com/pxfgez4 Mary Lysne
reveal the finer Liniwan fibers, for piña cloth. http://www.cool-organic-clothing.com/ (gift from Susan Davis)
After washing and drying the fiber, she pina-fiber.html 3912 Lakeland Ave North
knots the single filaments together to pro- Tim and Fran Flaherty, Carnegie Mellon Robbinsdale, MN 55422
duce a single-filament yarn of workable University. mary@terrapintech.com
length,which she then uses for the warp and Deborah Brandon is a multi-talented mathematician and
weft. Though the fabric is woven in a simple Margaret Montgomery (gift
former board member. She can be reached at
plain weave, the weaver cannot let her mind from Carol Hendrickson)
412/963-7416 or at brandon@andrew.cmu.edu
wander as she works. In order to produce the 2904 Mallard Dr.
St. Charles, MO 63301-1214

WARP on the Web - www.weavearealpeace.org

features WARP history, annual meeting information, member access to the
directory, and past newsletters. You can join or renew your membership online,
and sign up for WARP’s member-only Listserv.

Katie Simmons maintains a WARP presence on ravelry.com, the knitting

networking site; on Weavevolution, http://www.weavolution.com; and on
Facebook. Please send her information at ktd26@hotmail.com

WARP Newsletter - Spring 2014 7

 Looking for a Weaving Adventure?
WARP member Susan Atkinson, who lives women. She feels they need someone to stay
near indigenous Borucan weavers of Costa with them and guide them thru the warping
Rica, writes that they are seeking a weaver and weaving process, perhaps a three-week
More New Members to teach them how to weave on a 4-shaft stay. Room and board are provided. For more
counterbalance loom. Traditional backstrap information about this opportunity, contact
Gayle Ann Moyle
weavers, the women are anxious to use a loom Susan at Artesanosnaturales@gmail.com. For
(gift from Deb Chandler)
that Susan made for them (see the Fall 2012 more information about the weavers, go to
10289 Moore Street
WARP newsletter). However, Susan is not able www.borucacostarica.org
Westminster, CO 80021-3735
303/466-9788
to spend the time needed to fully instruct the
gamoyle@comcast.net
Suzani Embroidery Lives On in Uzbekistan
Sharlene Pearson continued from page 1
(gift from Deb Chandler) synonymous with the glorious embroideries responsible for dyeing silk, drawing designs,
1413 SE 8th Avenue of Uzbekistan, in Central Asia. and washing the Suzanis.
Oak Harbor, WA 98277 After independence in 1991, we saw a need Suzani artists draw their designs freehand
360/675-5427 in the Uzbek market for handmade traditional, on strips of woven silk, linen, cotton, or
pearsonfish@hotmail.com non-synthetic articles of beauty. The Little adras (silk and cotton), with a sharp straw (a
Silk Road Shop has strong ties in Central Asia, "kalam," which means "pencil"). Handwoven
Gayle Ramsden fabrics are used for the embroidery founda-
which were gained by establishing reliable
2887 Woodland Street tion cloth. A group of women then embroi-
contacts with officials and cooperating closely
Abbotsford der the pattern with vegetable-dyed silk, as
with artisans, craft persons, workshops, and
British Columbia V2S 4E5
manufacturers. Our collaborative team is pro- has been done for centuries. The Suzani silk
Canada
ducing masterpieces, combining the modern threads are locally produced, and two tradi-
604 758 6116 (h)
style with the cultural traditions of handcraft, tional stitches are used in the majority of the
604 854 4573 (2)
gayle.ramsden@ufv.ca while providing work and a sense of pride for pieces, “hook” stitch and “needle” stitch. In
the women who make them. We are recycling all Suzanis you can discover hidden symbols
Michelle Roenke old designs and motifs to match the demands and lucky charms, such as flowers, fruits,
(gift from Deb Chandler) of current lifestyles, and we are keeping our birds, and fish. Commonly repeated symbols
PO Box 1599 ancient traditions alive by "upcycling" and and themes include expressions of happiness,
Bethany Beach, DE 19930 using natural dyes and fabrics. luck, well-being, and fertility.
302/542-6397 Our contemporary reproductions of an- After the embroidery is completed on each
michelleroenke@gmail.com tique Suzani textiles are naturally dyed or dyed strip, they are sewn together to form a large
with eco-friendly colors, created by women finished piece. The Suzani will be used as
Joan Ruane incorporating designs traditionally used in the coverlet, bedspread, drapes or as decoration.
(gift from Irene Schmoller) 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries in the towns In a word, they are multifunctional.
8204 N. Frontier Rd. and regions of Uzbekistan. We also produce Suzanis (and ikats) are available for pur-
McNeal, AZ 85617 and sell different kinds of embroideries with chase from Little Silk Road. Aziz writes that
jsruane@yahoo.com different motifs and designs. In our collec- PayPal accounts are not available in Uzbeki-
tion there are also Suzanis from 1970s and stan, but that money can be transferred via
Amy Schmierbach 1980s which are going to become rare in our Western Union. He can be contacted at little-
864 Moscow days. Our goal is to beautify people's lives and silkroadshop@gmail.com. Little Silk Road has
Hays, KS 67601 homes with beautiful embroideries, and to a Facebook page at https://www.facebook.
785/628-7441 (h) com/littlesilkroadshop. Suzanis from Little
offer embroideries with only the best quality.
785/628-4272 (w) Silk Road are sold through Suzanis from
Our embroideries are sewn by women
aschmier@fhsu.edu Bukhara to Cape Town at https://sites.google.
who live near our city or in the regions of
www.amyschmierbach.com
Bukhara. Women in the villages were taught com/site/Suzanicapetown/home, www.face-
embroidery by their grandmothers. And this book.com/bukharatocapetownsuzani. There
Bill Temple
tradition is continuing in the villages. Most is a video at http://www.youtube.com/watch
(gift from Linda Temple)
PO Box 1143 of the women are married and embroidering ?v=nMRSbzU9n2o&feature=share
Red Lodge, MT 59068 Suzanis provides a reliable income. We pay Sandy Gally has purchased from the Little
fairly for their labor and mostly let them set Silk road and can tell you how she ordered
the prices for their work. We (men) are only if you wish to contact her at alekana_az@
yahoo.com.

8 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2014

Member Profile
Katie Simmons: Preserving Stories and Recipes of Weaving, Dyeing
At the beginning of her career in weaving at Cleveland State University, hoping someday
and fiber arts, Katie Simmons already knows to combine her interest in textiles, art and
that, first and foremost, she wants to preserve dance. Her education has also included an More New Members
the stories and intership at an alpaca yarn company in Peru, Susan K Tepas
the recipes that which required rescheduling her own wedding. (gift from N Tepas)
underpin weav- Recently Katie started the Hildebrandt 47 Elizabeth
ing and natural Artist Collective in Cleveland, where she lives. Mansfield Center, CT 06250
dyeing process- She says that she “launched the space with
Carla Tilghman
es. She sees tex- about 10 other artists to provide affordable,
(gift from Linda Bowden)
tiles as physical collaborative workspace for young, emerging
2414 Louisana St
stories on every artists.” Her personal work focuses on com-
Lawrence, KS 66046
level. “There is munity and family. She enjoys cyanotype on 785/840-9919 (h)
a lot to be said silk and is planning on painting the white part 785/840-7092 (w)
about who had with natural dyes. Spinning is Katie’s medita- tilghman@ku.edu
a hand in every Photo taken outside of Dorinda tion. She is currently working on re-utilizing www.lapintextiles.com
step [from mate- Dutcher’s kitchen in Independen- waste materials from beach clean-ups and the
rial to dye to fin- cia, Bolivia. Katie was practicing brewery where she works. This summer she Pat Tschudy
on her own after a weaving lesson.
ished product].” will be doing a fashion show at Burning River (gift from Deb Chandler)
Dorinda, a WARP member,
In second (eco) Fest Cleveland. 12112 North 119th Street
works with PAZA, where
g rade, K atie’s Katie volunteered.
Personally, Katie would like to travel and Scottsdale, AZ 85259
grandmother hear as many stories as possible. In November, 480/661-7674
helped her sew an Eskimo outfit for her Katie went to Tinkuy de Tejedores in Cusco, patschudy@cox.net
Cabbage Patch doll. Later, Katie had her own Peru. She discovered incredible diversity there
way of dressing, wearing aprons and combing but also the same aspects of community she Jacquie Vincent
thrift shops for interesting fabrics and gar- finds in WARP. She says, “It was one of the (gift from Deb Chandler)
ments that suited her. After high school, she few occasions I lived in the moment without 309 Lake Hancock Drive
went to school for fashion, but realized her any worries. I learned so much about people, Coupeville, WA 98239
interest was more in the history behind the weaving, and natural dyeing.” 360/678-5757
garment. She liked knowing the process and Katie was swept into WARP by her men- jacquielynnev@gmail.com
who played a part in the creation of a piece. tor/ teacher, Teena Jennings. In WARP, she
Katie’s formal education in fiber and re- finds a community, a vast array of interested, Ruth Walker-Daniels
lated arts includes an undergraduate degree in like-minded individuals, an inspiring group – a (gift from Deb Chandler)
Oakwood Heights
Fashion Merchandising, a soon-to-be gradu- necessity.
Presbyterian Home
ate degree in Clothing, Textiles and Interiors You can contact Katie at Ktd26@hotmail.
10 Vo-Tech Drive
with emphasis on metalsmithing from the com
Oil City, PA 16301
University of Akron, where she is finishing Candy Meacham is an educator, a weaver, and a former 814/676-8686
up a thesis on mother-to-daughter loss of WARP board member. She can be reached at candy.
textile traditions in Bolivia. Katie is currently meacham@earthlink.net Claudia Wieland-Randall
working on a Spanish major and Dance minor 1706 Cruz Drive
Rapid City, SD 57702
605/791-0711
Nominating Committee Makes Recommendations beadlore@rap.midco.net

The terms for two board members are mittee, appointed by the board of directors
expiring this year—Cindy Lair and Teena and chaired by Linda Temple, is recommend-
Jennings-Rentenaar. Board terms are for ing both of these board members for a second
three years. three-year term. Nominations can also be
The WARP bylaws state that a member made from the floor. The election will be held
may be re-elected for one additional three at the Annual Meeting on May 11. See page 2
year term. Therefore, the Nominating Com- for the terms of other current board members.

WARP Newsletter - Spring 2014 9

 Artisan Profile
Santa: President of the Pacutama, Guatemala weaving cooperative
More New Members Allison Havens
Santa is part of the Pacutama community. cooperative elected Santa to be their board
Beth Wintroub
She married when she was 18 and ended up president demonstrating the trust they have
(gift of Deb Chandler)
having a child shortly after. However, as soon
5706 Prospect Road
as the child was born, her husband left her
Longmont, CO 80503
303/772-0372
to immigrate to the US in search of work.
bjoywin@gmail.com He never returned or contacted her again.
Santa was left alone to raise her child and
Frieda Wray support them both economically. Having
(gift from Deb Chandler) never graduated from school and living in a
3442 Rowena Drive remote village far from the city and far from
Los Alamitos, CA 90720 job opportunities, it was a challenge to find
760/809-6032 enough work to survive.
friedawray@gmail.com When Y’abal Handicrafts first started
working with the Pacutama community five
years ago, Santa was one of the first women to in her. And with the wages she earns from her
join the weaving cooperative. Santa has since work with Y’abal, she is now able to support
Welcome Back proven herself to be a strong and intelligent herself and take care of her son while work-
leader and has grown into an independent ing from home.
Louise Schiller self-assured woman. Last year, the weaving
656 Cragmont
Berkeley, CA 94708
609/651-2515
louiseschiller10@gmail.com
WARP’s Silent and Live Auctions Need Your
Deborah Robson
Textile and Textile-Related Contributions
Judy Allen
418 Goldeneye Dr
Ft. Collins, CO 80526 The Auction, WARP’s fundraiser, has keeping with WARP’s mission, and will appeal
970/226-3590 become a much anticipated event at the An- to people attending the meeting.
robson@frii.com nual Meeting. For the last few years we have For those of you who can't join us in St
http://independentstitch. added a live auction to the silent one. This Louis, you may send your items to Kelsey
typepad.com year the close of the silent auction and the Wiskirchen, 4967 Lindenwood Ave, Apart-
live auction take place on Saturday night. That ment #2E, St. Louis, MO, 63109. Include
day we are welcoming the public to our events a description of all donations (country of
– Joe Coca and Linda Ligon speaking about origin and technique especially helpful;
the making of Faces of Tradition, a book if it is an older item, please include age
of portraits of weaving elders in Peru in the of textile if known or an estimate) and a
morning, a dye workshop in the afternoon, minimum starting bid. Items need to be
and in the evening dinner followed by the received by Friday, May 2.
auction. It promises to be more exciting and Members who are attending the annual
competitive than ever with the anticipation of meeting may bring their auction items with
a larger audience. them. You will be asked to complete a bid
Each year the number of items donated sheet with the same information as we ask
for the auction increases. Traditionally we of those members who send in their items.
have accepted gently used ethnic textiles and If you are coming to St. Louis, please be
clothing. We have expanded that to accept sure to set aside funds for all those fabulous
handmade or new items as well as books relat- textile items you will want to take home.
ed to textiles. So please check your textile and More of the textiles (ikats and batiks), similar
textile-related things and donate generously. to what you saw in Manchester from Susan
We ask that you adhere to the guidelines that Davis’s friend Gloria Davis’s collection, will
the items you donate be in good condition, in be included in the auction.

10 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2014

 Women of the World: Textiles and Tradition
Anita Luvera Mayer
In some cultures of the world, cloth is a
part of life even before birth, where women
hang pieces of fabric onto trees to pray to Thanks to
the Mother Goddess for fertility and good
health. Upon birth, babies are wrapped in
Donors...
“swaddling” cloth to provide warmth and ...to the Alice Brown
comfort, and are placed in a cradle or bed with Memorial Scholarship Fund
decorated bedding. In parts of India, women
of the family begin working on dowry pieces Deb Brandon
upon the birth of a daughter and these gifts, Ginny Bridge
Handweavers Guild of Boulder
including a large number of embroidered
Tenna Jennings-Rentenaar
textiles, are items the bride brings to her
Cathie Joslyn
husband’s home. And throughout the world, Cloth called India from West Africa
Molly Martin
marriage garments are unique to mark this Embroidered velvets are called India.
Aimee Russillo
important ritual of life. Women use India primarily during the last
Marilyn Webster
Adornment of clothing serves women stage of the process of iria, a rite of passage Susan Weltman
in numerous ways from attracting the Gods, that marks a woman’s change of status from a Mary Woodley
protecting the wearer, identifying an ethnic young married female to one who has borne a Margaret Zeps
group, and honoring history. child. Bearing children confers a position of
As Nora Fisher states in Mud, Mirror high status upon a woman in Kalabari West
and Thread, “decoration transforms a thing African society, equaled only by great age. A ...to operating reserve and
ritually and it is made to function spiritually as woman, after bearing a child is presented to endowment funds
well as physically.” Ceremonial cloth becomes the community in a special ceremony wear- Susan Abouhalkah
part of each day honoring the individuality ing a short wrapper of embroidered velvet. Marcia Bellas
of the wearer. Wearing velvet marks her passage from the MaryAnn Boone
Specific types of clothing are used to mark early stages of womanhood to the final one. Jane Brownlee
birth, graduation, marriage and death and it is She now bears the collective responsibility Margaret Carlberg
clothing that identifies the role of a person, of all women, the raising of her daughters Sara Goodman
from religious leaders to airline pilots, nurses and sons to be fine Kalabari citizens. Her Lisa Honig
and those in law enforcement. own and her family’s position within the Kate Keegan
“The significance of quilt making for her grand- community was visually shown by the use of Cindy Lair
mother was a spiritual process where one learned this most treasured and expensive of cloths. Nancy Meffe - Weaving for
to surrender. It was a form of meditation where For centuries women have known the Women of the World
the self was let go…it was an art of stillness power of textiles and created cloth to adorn Nancy Merritt
and concentration, a work which renewed the their bodies, clothe and provide warmth for Cheryl Musch
spirit….a way to calm the heart and ease the the people they love, and to decorate their Sandra Peinado
mind.” Author unknown homes, from tents to apartments. It is a Portland Handweavers Guild
“Textile art has a unique quality, the com- heritage women continue to follow in many Schacht Spindle Company
mon reference point being humanity. People wear parts of the world; they mark their lives with Ruth M. Walker-Daniels
textiles next to their skin. We wrap our newborn the clothing they create and the clothing Susan Weltman
babies in them and shroud our dead in them and they wear.
we all share memories of their softness.” Annika “The rituals of life are wrapped in cloth”
Ekdahe, Embroidery, September 2002. Louise Todd Cope

Hunters shirt of Mali References:

A proverb there: “the best way to know your- Nora Fisher, Mud, Mirror and Thread,
self is through your daliew (Amulet)” India, 1993
In attaching horns and packets to their Sheila Paine, Embroidered Textiles, Lon-
shirts, hunters are in effect wearing their don, 1990
daliew. In so doing, they plainly state they
know themselves very well indeed.

WARP Newsletter - Spring 2014 11

Weave a Real Peace
3102 Classen Boulevard
PMB 249
Oklahoma City, OK 73118

If your mailing label does not say 2014, this is your last issue. Renew today!
WARP Members Who Attended Tinkuy Describe the Indescribable
continued from page 2
hand spindles, to witness the recognition given to the visiting weavers and every day excited for the day to unfold. It combined learning about other
dignitaries, and the continual magical interweaving of dance, music, and cultures, weaving techniques, and pure entertainment. I found myself most
presentations.” content being a spectator.
Sara Goodman - “The opening procession up the Avenida del Sol My favorite mental picture
was pure joy. Such a vibrant, colorful living display of the exquisite is the women from various
textiles of the Andes. The regional clothing and the magnificent hats were cultures showing each other
fantastic! It was truly an honor to be there mingling with the local people how they weave and learn-
and dancing to the music.” ing from each other.”
Dorinda Dutcher - “Thanks in a large part to support from At some level al-
WARP members, Doña Máxima Cortez and I were able to travel from most all the presenta-
Vendor from Huancavelia, Peru, selling the
Bolivia to attend tions dealt with the bal-
work of members of Artesania Textiles Taipe
the Tinkuy. She ancing of the ancient
was the sole weaver weaving tradition with finding a market niche in the modern
representing Bolivia. world. It was interesting to reflect on the points of view
Her outstanding of indigenous
memory was learning weavers, indi-
new figures from the viduals, gov-
three teenage weav- ernments, and
ers from Chinchero. organizations
Doña Máxima from Bolivia demonstrating her
The young women as all recog-
technique to weavers from CTTC villages
work at CTTC on nize the need
weekends to help with their university expenses. Doña Máxima was to conser ve
pleased that the young women were maintaining their weaving tradition the mastery of
and pursuing higher education.” Navajo weaver from the US demonstrates while weavers crafts in fading
Katie Simmons - “Here are my three words: inspiring, welcoming, from CTTC villages observe cultures.
and passionate. There are so many moments I can choose. I woke up

12 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2014