CHAPTER 2

LITERATURE SURVEY

2.1 SCOPE OF THE SURVEY

Survey is a very essential element before starting any project work. It is necessary
because then only a person can know what technique to be used for that particular work. If
the survey is not done properly then the person may do the existing work of some paper as
their own proposed work. Also, it helps a person to know in depth about the techniques
handled for particular task to be competed. Survey helps to make the flow for the project
computation, website to collect the dataset or the best suitable method to collect the exact
datasets required for the project. It also helps to compare the proposed work with the existing
work and also paves way for evaluating accuracy of the project. It gives the clear vision to
carry out the entire project work and will also give clear idea about how long it does takes to
complete the proposed work. It also provides difficulties and drawbacks faced in the existing
works.

2.2 RECENT FIELD WORKS AND TECHNIQUES

[1] Mona Abaza, (2007) has explored shifting landscapes of fashion in contemporary
Egypt, The evolving Egyptian fashion scene in the context of changing lifestyles. It
highlights three emerging local trends: "Islamic chic," "locally produced Western chic," and
"ethnic chic," alongside the long- standing presence of imported Western styles. These trends
are interpreted as part of globalization's interactive processes. Both the ethnic look and
Islamic chic are seen as promoting "distinction" and refined taste. Linked to identity
formation and "folklorizing" culture, traditional garments, local crafts, and ethnic items have
become fashionable among the affluent and tourists. Meanwhile, Islamic attire has shed its
image of austere resistance, transforming into a new form of "embourgeoisement" with
aspirations for social inclusion.

[2] Esmat Abd El-Mageed, et al. (2012) has explored Ancient Egyptian colors as a
contemporary fashion that There have been numerous terms used by historians to indicate
how much Western arts and crafts have been influenced by Ancient Egypt over the years.
‘Egyptomania’ is a term that was first used in France in the 1990s, following on from
Western fascination with Pharonic ornamental arts.

8
This study initially analyses the colors of a number of jewellery artworks that were
discovered in Tutankhamun’s tomb. From this, a contemporary color palette based on the
Ancient Egyptian has been devised and applied in the design of a summer season’s fashion
collection. In all, eight designs have been proposed that mix color symbolism of Ancient
Egyptian arts with its significance at the present time.

[3] Anna Vagasi-Kovacs, (2013) has explored fashion trend revival – fashionable
cultural heritage, The fast- paced fashion industry demands constant innovation from
designers, who must create new designs based on consumer needs within a short timeframe.
Unlike other products, fashion trends are cyclical, allowing older designs to serve as
inspiration for new creations. Hungary has recently seen a revival of cultural heritage
elements in fashion, prompting this study to explore the motivations behind this trend through
interviews with 14 fashion designers. Cultural heritage, unlike other inspirations, transcends
fashion trends and eras, offering a constant source of inspiration. The study explores the
extent to which cultural elements are used and the reasons behind it, highlighting how
economic, political, and social factors influence the visibility of cultural heritage in fashion.
The current trend is partly attributed to the economic development of Hungary's creative
industry.

[4] Sanjukta Pookulangara, (2013) has explored the slow fashion movement:
understanding consumer perceptions an exploratory study, Despite projected growth, the
global retail industry faces challenges like changing consumer trends, resource scarcity, and
climate change. While fast fashion dominates, concerns about overconsumption and its
environmental impact are growing. Companies are recognizing the importance of
sustainability and ethical conduct in response to changing consumer values.

[5] ElSayed A. ElNashar, et al. (2014) has explored new approach of technical
criticism of Egyptian ancient clothes with Vitruvius aesthetics theory for fashion design, A
new approach to model dynamic behavior in Vitruvius theory clothing. It builds upon a static
draping model, adding dynamics and improving performance. The method involves setting
up a 3D garment based on Vitruvius theory, developing algorithms to translate style
requirements into parameter values, constructing a knowledge base, and creating a real-time
algorithm for animating the garment. This approach tackles the challenge of simulating
dynamic behavior, paving the way for applications like rapid prototyping and e-commerce.

9
 [6] Yoo jin kwon, et al. (2015) has explored traditional aesthetic characteristics
traced in south Korean contemporary fashion practice, how traditional Korean aesthetic
characteristics – pure formality, naturalistic simplicity, symbolic decoration, and playful
spontaneity – are rejuvenated in contemporary Korean fashion. Designers like Lie Sangbong
and Lee Young Hee exemplify these characteristics in their collections. Additionally,
contemporary fashion often exhibits a postmodern mixture of past and present, Korean and
Western, high and popular culture, and fashion and art. Despite these eclectic features, the
underlying Korean philosophy, ideas, and values remain embedded in the reimagined
traditional cultural elements within contemporary fashion.

[7] Samaneh Beheshti-Kashi, et al. (2015) has explored Trend Fashion -A

Framework for the Identification of Fashion Trends that The fashion industry faces different
challenges regarding accurate forecasts for future fashion products. The consumer demand is
volatile and sales periods of fashion products are short due to production plants in Asia and
target markets in Europe. Besides standard statistical approaches based on historical data and
advanced methods such as the application of artificial neural networks or fuzzy logic, there
are fashion experts, who use different information sources, e.g. fairs, social media, fashion
websites, to predict design-trends as well as sales volumes. In this paper we follow this
expert-driven approach by collecting data from fashion weblogs, news sites and fashion
magazines, in order to identify actual and future design- trends. For this aim, we develop the
TrendFashion Tool which collects data from these fashion sources and analyze them. On a
higher level, this tool successfully separates fashion related posts from non-fashion related
posts. And on a lower level, it identifies fashion related words and weights them according to
an index.

[8] Ahmed Ebied, (2016) in preserving our tangible heritage: clothing in ancient
Egypt to the present day, the survival of ancient Egyptian clothing in modern Egypt. It
examines whether similar clothing is still worn today, concluding that many modern
garments have deep roots in the ancient past. While designs and decorations may have
evolved, they retain essential elements of their older forms. The paper employs analytical and
comparative approaches, utilizing document-art and art historical analyses to trace the
development of these clothes through history. By preserving the tangible heritage of clothing
through artistic description and analysis, the author also sheds light on potential religious
implications these garments may hold.

10
 [9] Vivan S. Michael, (2016) has explored the pharaonic sign “ankh” between history
and modern fashion, Ancient Egyptian art, rooted in beliefs of resurrection and immortality,
heavily relies on symbolic representation. Hieroglyphs, formed from elements of the
environment, are a perfect example. The Ankh, a famous symbol of divinity, resurrection,
and eternal life, appears on ancient coins and art across regions. This research investigates the
historical significance and distinctive features of the Ankh, analyzing its relationship with the
function of ancient Egyptian art and its aesthetic and decorative values. It explores the
possibility of incorporating the Ankh in evening wear designs, seeking feedback from
specialists, consumers, and producers. Finally, the research will implement the highest-rated
designs, contributing to the revival of this ancient symbol.

[10] Inmaculada VIVAS SÁINZ, (2017) has explored The Artist in his Context:
New Tendencies on the Research of Ancient Egyptian Art that This article explores the role
of the artist in ancient Egypt in his social and cultural context, analyzing a diversity of
sources, that could help understand how Egyptian artists worked and how they made their
artworks, especially focusing on the New Kingdom. In the past years new investigations have
analyzed the paintings, the teamwork of the painters and the variety of techniques they used.
Other researchers have tried to reproduce the conditions in which the artists worked in a
tomb, following an experimental approach. The importance of studying the corpus of varied
figurative Ostrava is also remarked, as they could be highly useful to understand the painter's
work and his production. The answer to many questions regarding the ancient Egyptian
artworks could be in the analysis of the creative process of the artists, conditioned by the
strong artistic tradition but looking for originality, which reveals their individuality.

[11] Mahda Forough, et al. (2017) has done examining the Symbolic Meaning of
Colors in ancient Egyptian Painting Art and Their Origin in Environment that throughout
history, human beings have used different ways including arts to express their feelings and
thoughts. Painting art has served different purposes. It has been used a medium to portray
sacred things or to spend leisure time. Paintings can carry real and symbolic meanings.
Sometimes they depict the reality in the environment, and sometimes they present unrealistic
events or have a symbolic meaning. Color as the most important elements of the painting
used in different ways to present a variety of concepts such as death, immortality. Ancient
Egypt is one of the greatest and first civilizations of mankind from which many
archaeological works and artworks have remained. Purpose: Previous research has analyzed
the symbolic meaning of colors in the ancient Egyptian paintings based on linguistics.

11
So far no research has analyzed the symbolic meanings of colors and traced its origin in the
real environment. This paper is an attempt to analyze symbolic meanings of colors in ancient
Egyptian painting works.

[12] Eunhyuk Yim, et al. (2017) has done a research on Typology of Dress in
Contemporary Fashion that This study categorizes the formative aspects of dress and their
implications according to the extent of revealing or concealing corporeality based on body
perceptions. By considering the notion of dress as bodily practice to be a theoretical and
methodological framework, this study classify the forms of women's dress since the 1920s
when contemporary fashion took hold. As examined in this study, the typology of dress was
categorized as body-consciousness, deformation, transformation, and formlessness.
Deformations in dress are categorized into two different subcategories. One is the expansion
or reduction of bodily features based on the vertical or horizontal grids of the body, which
visualizes the anachronistic restraint of the body through an innerwear as outerwear strategy.
The other is exaggerations of the bodily features irrelevant to the grid, which break from the
limitations and constraints of the body as well as traditional notions of the body.

[13] Lipi Begum, (2015) done a research on fashion technology in trends of textile
engineering science 7000bc in Egypt, Textiles dating back to 5000 BC Egypt, evolved from
domestic tasks to factory production in the 1500s. Unlike Western traditions, Egyptian art
lacked critical discourse until recently. Ancient Egyptians used sophisticated techniques for
fabric aesthetics, stretch reduction, and hair growth. Tomb paintings showcase their interest
in fabric draping and stretch fabrics, highlighting both practical and aesthetic aspects.
Research reveals advanced systems for capturing motion on fabric, demonstrating their early
understanding of textile behavior.

[14] Rasha kamel soleman, (2018) has viewed the central role of white linen in
ancient Egyptian women’s dresses and fashion, Artistic depictions of women's clothing
throughout ancient Egypt reveal a strong sense of style, taste, and personal expression. Linen
weaving flourished in Egypt, valued for labor payments and temple offerings. Today, these
depictions remain treasured museum pieces, offering valuable insights into ancient fashion.
While the actual garments have mostly perished, artistic representations provide a window
into different historical periods. This analysis focuses on examples showcasing the artistic
character of each age and the evolution of the iconic linen dress, highlighting the shared
styles and unique developments across dynasties.

12
 [15] Dr. R. Rajeshwari, (2023) has explored that design of multi-wear accessories
clothing as a contemporary fashion inspired by the traditional clothing of Menoufia that The
folklore in Menoufia Governorate represents one of the most important folk legacies that
confirm our Egyptian identity, and this heritage represents its important and influential values
in our national heritage as it is characterized by simplicity, innate nature and dependence on
the surrounding environment, and preserving this popular heritage and reformulating it in a
way that is in line with contemporary reality is the problem of this Research in the analysis of
the most important features that characterized the popular costumes in Menoufia governorate
from its distinctive elements and features, the possibility of designing multi-wear clothing
supplements as a contemporary fashion inspired by the heritage clothes of the Monufia
Governorate, and determining the opinions of specialists in the designs implemented and the
extent to which they achieve the innovative aspect of the heritage clothing The extent to
which the functional aspect was achieved and in order to achieve the research objectives, the
most important features that characterized the traditional clothing in the Menoufia
Governorate were analyzed from distinct elements and features. The evaluation received
97%, followed by the second model and the third model 91%, then followed by the fifth
model, where he got 95% and the first model, as it was the lowest designs with a quality
factor of 82%. The Searching for local fashions that emphasize our Egyptianness among the
fashions and fashions of the contemporary world.

[16] Dr. Rania N. Shaker, (2020), has a done a research on Folklore Characterized
by nobility, folk art in any society is a manifestation of culture and an honest mirror reflect
his ideas, including the beliefs, traditions, customs and its aspects of distinguishing either
material or spiritual. The outcomes of the interaction of all these forces are formulated in the
templates, unsentimental, and nourish the faith and strengthen the hearts and refine the
humanitarian aspects of all. Draping has an ancient historic background. Traces draping
method can be observed in the ancient race of the Egyptians, if not in its purest of form and
meaning but surely as a dress draping had its existence in this timeline. the current study,
trying to take advantage of the values the fine art of the units of the Egyptian People and their
meanings symbolism, which form part of human culture and an essential element in the
structuring of formative cultural, and try to highlight the national character of our art popular
in the form of contemporary art for the dissemination of that culture in the young generation.
Eight fashionable trendy summer outfits were inspired from our great Egyptian heritage
draped dyed, printed and decorated to represent contemporary look.

13
 [17] Manal Mohamady Taha Eladwy, (2019) has published a paper on design and
production of bead woven fabric in fashion trends for garment of Egyptian origin; Traditional
Egyptian beads emphasize belonging to the environment and serve as inspiration for
innovative fashion trends. Beads, made from natural materials, have been used throughout
history for decoration and as a symbol of wealth. Their structure and use in ancient Egyptian
jewelry like necklaces and belts demonstrate their significance. The beads industry, once a
secret skill, has evolved with advancements in technology, offering a valuable resource for
modern fashion.

[18] Dr. Olfat Shawki Mohamed, (2019) The present research depends on studying
the characteristics of the women's robes in some governorates from the Delta to Upper in
Egypt. Each governorate has own characteristics which reflect on clothes. Within the
wrapping of king Tutankhamun's mummy, 143 pieces of jewelry were found; the importance
of them is not only in the color of the metal or beads, but also in the originality of the design
and motifs. Egyptian woman's robes characteristics and Tutankhamun's jewelry motifs
represent the challenge for designers to create women's fashion designs which emphasis on
Egyptian identity. The present research aims to create collections for women which are
inspired from the characteristics of Egyptian women's robes in outlines and decorated with
the motifs of Tutankhamun's jewelry. The research shows that the historical study is useful to
create fashion designs, which combines originality and contemporary. Studying the
characteristics of women's traditional robes and the motifs of Tutankhamun is a perfect way
to create fashion designs for women, which reflect the Egyptian identity. The results revealed
that the designs achieved the highest evaluation level were designs that coincided with the
age group Class of questionnaire in terms of compatibility with the customs and traditions,
keeps up with fashion trends, emphasizes the character of Egyptian woman and her feminine
look, succeeded in combine silhouettes of women traditional robes in Egypt and the
aesthetics of Tutankhamun motifs, Tutankhamun motifs added aesthetic values to the design
and it is suitable for women of the age group (25-40).

[19] Paula L. Martino (2020) has explored Visualization for analyzing evolutionary
dynamics of fashion trends that this study explores how to analyze evolutionary dynamics of
fashion trends, focusing on trickledown process from luxury fashion products. To reveal
chronological changes of fashion trends, this paper proposes visualization techniques using
networks created by quantitative analysis of fashion trends. For quantitative analysis, 165
fashion trends comprised of 495 pictures were collected from articles of online magazine.

14
Vogue Paris summarizing major fashion weeks from 2013 S/S to 2016 A/W. Two types of
network visualization techniques were discussed, which utilized cluster analysis as a
hierarchical clustering technique and k-means as a non-hierarchical clustering technique. A
comparison between two clustering techniques showed a drawback of hierarchical clustering
caused by cluster integration order. The networks created by the nonhierarchical clustering
technique unveiled both steady and transient trends. It was confirmed that the proposed
method provided an understanding of the evolutionary dynamics of fashion trends.

[20] Zlatin Zlatev (2022), The ancient Egyptian ornaments, their elements, shapes,
colours and proportions between them are a basis for creation of modern clothing. As an
object of design of clothes, ornaments and symbols are the instrument through which they
become attractive to consumers. A comparative analysis is made of websites containing
digital collections of ancient Egyptian symbols and are defined their advantages and
disadvantages. A program algorithm is developed to obtain raster images from vector
coordinates of ancient Egyptian symbols. The algorithm is used in the creation of elements
for digital collection. The collection is realized on the Internet site. Proposals are made for
application of the research and developments in practice. The results of the research, analysis
and developments are used to create a digital collection containing vector and raster images
of ancient Egyptian symbols and their dimensional characteristics. The collection is put into
constructed for this purpose website. The created collection complements the existing ones
with vector images in less common file formats. The results of the research can be applied in
the training of future professionals in studying the shape formation and design of garments.

15
 Table 2.1 Literature Survey of Various Contributions

S.
AUTHOR CONTRIBUTION OUTCOME
NO.

1. Mona In exploring shifting landscapes of Evolving Egyptian fashion

fashion in contemporary Egypt. scene in the context of their
Abaza, Linked to identity formation and changing lifestyles.
"folklorizing" culture, traditional
(2007)
garments, local crafts, and ethnic
items.

2. Esmat Ancient Egyptian colors as a A contemporary color palette

contemporary fashion that There based on the Ancient Egyptian
Abd El- have been numerous terms used by has been devised and applied in
historians to indicate how much the design of a summer
Mageed,
Western arts and crafts have been season’s fashion collection. In
et al. influenced by Ancient Egypt over all, eight designs have been
the years. proposed that mix color
(2012) symbolism of Ancient Egyptian
arts.

3. Anna Vagasi Fashion trend revival – fashionable The study explores the extent to
Kovacs, cultural heritage, allowing older which cultural elements are
(2013) designs to serve as inspiration for used and the reasons behind it.
new creations.

4. Sanjukta Studying the slow fashion Importance of sustainability

Pookulangar, movement: understanding and ethical conduct in response
consumer perceptions, about the to changing the consumer
(2013) retail industry facing challenges values.
like changing consumer trends, etc,.

5. ElSayed A. A new approach of technical Tackles the challenge of

criticism of Egyptian ancient simulating dynamic
El Nashar, clothes with Vitruvius aesthetics behavior, paving the way for
theory for fashion design, to model applications like rapid
et al.
dynamic behavior in Vitruvius prototyping and e-commerce.
theory clothing.

16
 (2014)

6. Yoo jin Traditional aesthetic characteristics Eclectic features, the

kwon, traced in south Korean underlying Korean philosophy,
contemporary fashion practice, how ideas and values remain
(2015) traditional Korean aesthetic embedded in the modernized
characteristics. traditional cultural elements
with contemporary fashion.

7. Samaneh Explored Trend Fashion -A Develop the Trend Fashion

Beheshti- Framework for the Identification of Tool which collects data from
Kashi, et al. Fashion Trends that The fashion these fashion sources and
(2015) industry faces different challenges analyze them. On a higher
regarding accurate forecasts for level, this tool successfully
future fashion products. separates fashion related posts
from non-fashion related posts.

8. Ahmed Preserving our tangible heritage: Analytical and comparative

Ebied, (2016) clothing in ancient Egypt to the approaches on ancient fashion,
present day, The survival of ancient utilizing document- art and art-
Egyptian clothing in modern Egypt. historical analyses to trace the
development of these clothes
through history.

9. Vivan S. The pharaonic sign “ankh” between The possibility of incorporating

Michael, history and modern fashion, the Ankh in evening wear
(2016) Ancient Egyptian art, rooted in designs, seeking feedback from
beliefs of resurrection and specialists, consumers, and
immortality, heavily relies on producers.
symbolic representation.

10. Inmaculada Explored The Artist in his Context: The ancient Egyptian artworks
Vivas Sainz, New Tendencies on the Research of could be in the analysis of the
(2017) Ancient Egyptian Art that This creative process of the artists,
article explores the role of the artist conditioned by the strong
in ancient Egypt in his social and artistic tradition but looking
cultural context. for originality.

17
11. Mahda Examining the Symbolic Meaning So far no research has analyzed
Forough, et of Colors in ancient Egyptian the symbolic meanings of
al. (2017) Painting Art and Their Origin in colors and traced its origin in
Environment that Throughout the real environment. This
history, human beings have used paper is an attempt to analyze
different ways including arts to symbolic meanings of colors in
express their feelings and thoughts. ancient Egyptian painting
works.

12. Eunhyuk Research on Typology of Dress in Transformable designs which

Yim, Contemporary Fashion that This pursue the expansion and
study categorizes the formative multiplicity of function.
et al. (2017) aspects of dress and their Formlessness in dress denies
implications according to the extent the perception of three-
of revealing or concealing dimensionality of the body
corporeality based on body through the planarization of
perceptions. the body.

13. Lipi Begum, A research on fashion technology Tomb paintings showcase their
in trends of textile engineering interest in fabric draping and
Rohit K. science 7000bc in Egypt, Textiles stretch fabrics, highlighting
Dasgupta dating back to 5000 BC Egypt, both practical and aesthetic
evolved from domestic tasks to aspects. Research reveals
(2015)
factory production in the 1500s. advanced systems for capturing
Unlike Western traditions, Egyptian motion on fabric, demonstrating
art lacked critical discourse until their early understanding of
recently. textile behavior.

14. ElSayed A.New approach of technical Tackles the challenge of

ElNashar, criticism of Egyptian ancient simulating dynamic behavior,
(2018) clothes with Vitruvius aesthetics paving the way for applications
theory for fashion design, A new like rapid prototyping and e-
approach to model dynamic commerce.
behavior in Vitruvius theory
clothing.

15. Explored the design of multi-wear The evaluation received 97%,

accessories clothing as a followed by the second model
Dr. R. contemporary fashion is inspired by and the third model 91%, then
Rajeshwari the traditional clothing of Menoufia followed by the fifth model,

18
 (2023) that The folklore in Menoufia where he got 95% and the first
represents one of the most model, as it was the lowest
important folk legacies that confirm designs with a quality factor of
our Egyptian identity. 82%.

16. Dr. Rania N. Folklore Characterized by nobility, The outcomes of the interaction
Shaker folk art in any society is a of all these forces are
manifestation of culture and an formulated in the templates,
(2020) honest mirror reflect his ideas, unsentimental, and nourish the
including the beliefs, traditions, faith and strengthen the hearts
Customs and its aspects of and refine the humanitarian
distinguishing either material or aspects of all. Draping has an
spiritual. ancient historic background.

17. Manal Design and production of bead Their structure and use in
Mohamady woven fabric in fashion trends for ancient Egyptian jewelry like
Taha garment of Egyptian origin; necklaces and belts demonstrate
Traditional Egyptian beads their significance. The beads
Eladwy emphasize belonging to the industry, once a secret skill, has
environment and serve as evolved with advancements in
et al
inspiration for innovative fashion technology, offering a valuable
(2019) trends. resource for modern fashion.

18. Dr. Olfat The present research aims to create The designs achieved the
Shawki collections for women which are highest evaluation level that
Mohamed, inspired from the characteristics of coincided with the age group in
Egyptian women's robes in outlines terms of compatibility with
Dr. Wafaa and decorated with the motifs of customs and traditions and
Abd Tutankhamun's jewellery. Studying character of Egyptian woman
the characteristics of women's feminine look, succeeded in
Elradi
traditional robes and the motifs. combine silhouettes of women
(2019) traditional robes in Egypt.

19
 19. Paula L. Explored Visualization for A comparison between two
Martino analyzing evolutionary dynamics of clustering techniques showed a
fashion trends that this study drawback of hierarchical
(2020) explores how to analyze clustering caused by cluster
evolutionary dynamics of fashion integration order. The networks
trends, focusing on trickledown created by the nonhierarchical
process from luxury fashion clustering technique unveiled
products. both steady and transient trends.

20. Zlatin Zlatev A comparative analysis is made of The results of the research,
websites containing digital analysis and developments are
(2022) collections of ancient Egyptian used to create a digital
symbols. A program algorithm is collection containing vector and
developed to obtain raster images raster images of ancient
from vector coordinates of ancient Egyptian symbols and their
Egyptian symbols. dimensional characteristics.

2.3 SUMMARY

This literature review has explored various sources on ancient Egyptian fashion,
including books, articles, online resources, and museum exhibits. These resources have
provided valuable insights into the styles, fabrics, colors, and motifs of clothing worn by
Egyptians in various social classes and periods. The review has also highlighted the growing
trend of modernizing ancient Egyptian fashion. Contemporary designers are increasingly
drawing inspiration from this rich cultural heritage, reinterpreting traditional elements with
fresh perspectives and innovative materials. This trend demonstrates the enduring appeal of
ancient Egyptian aesthetics and its relevance to contemporary fashion trends.

20