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 MISS ANNA FALLS.
A picture of Perfect Health ami Beauty that extends "clean
through. " Her height is 5 ft. 2'j in., weight, 120 lbs., aned id
years neck. 12\- in., chest normal. 30*2 in., expanded,
33H in., bust 3°. in., waist. 23V4 in-- hips. ?,7 in., ankle, s 1 4 in.
 THE
BEAUTY
BOOK
OF

ROXANA RION

; Beauty is more than skin-deep; /

I True beauty extends CLEAN THROUGH.
—Roxana Rion.

L. N. FOWLER & CO.,

7. Inapt-rial Arcade. Luderat* Circus
London. E. C.

Published September 9. 1913. by

THE ELIZABETH TOWNE COMPANY.

HOLYOKE. MASS.
 RATI"?
J? 5

Copyrighted, September 28, 1913

By
ELIZABETH TOWNE

©CLA354660
4tc/
 Contents.
Chapter I. FOREWORD.— Beauty a Duty and a Pleasure. The
"Why" and the " How." Beauty Building. Digging the Founda-
tions. Beautiful " All the
Way Through." 7

Chapter II. THE ROOT OF PHYSICAL EVIL.— Constipation.

Results of Constipation. The Nature of Constipation. The Colon.
The Impacted Colon. The Defective Drainpipe. Startling Facts.
Poisoning the System 12

Chapter III. THE UPROOTING PROCESS.— Cathartic Drugs and

Purgative Drugs Useless. The Pill Habit. How to Flush the Colon.
The Drugless Cure of Constipation 19

Chapter IV. BEAUTY AND INTERNAL CLEANLINESS.— Internal

Purity. The Normal Quantity of Fluids. Rules for Water Drinking.
Hot Water Drinking. The Water Cure of Constipation 25

Chapter V. EXTERNAL CLEANLINESS.— The Bath. The Nature

of the Skin. The Two Skins. Perspiration. Poisonous Waste Matter.
Keeping the Pores Clean. Oils of the Skin. Value of the Bath. The
Bath and Beauty 32

Chapter VI. THE SCIENCE OF THE BATH.—Wilson's Rules of the

Bath 39

Chapter VII. FOOD AND BEAUTY.— The Mixed Dietary. Gen-

eral Health and Beauty. The Question of Meats. Vegetables. Fruits.
Laxative Foods. Sweet Things. Bread and Pastry. Tea and
Coffee. Alcoholic Drinks. The Two Great Evils. Mastication.
Overeating 46

Chapter VIII. EXERCISE AND BEAUTY.— Rational Exercise.

Artificial Exercise. Mental Interest in Exercise. Evolution and Ex-
ercise. The Ideal System. Fresh Air and Exercise. The Vital Trio.
Dancing. Delsarte Exercises. General Directions 53

Chapter IX. BREATHING AND BEAUTY.— Close Relation between

Breathing, General Health, and Beauty. The Breathing Apparatus.
Breathing and Pure Blood. Nasal vs. Mouth Breathing. The Three
Kinds of Breathing. Clavicular Breathing. Intercostal Breathing.
Abdominal Breathing. Full Breathing. How to Breathe. Breathing
in Exercising. Breathing Exercises. A Good Suggestion 63

Chapter X. REST AND SLEEP.— Hours of Sleep. Rules of Sleeping.

Sleep Like a Child. Mental Relaxation. Physical Relaxation. Rules
for Relaxation. Relaxation in Bed. The Art and Science of " Letting
Go" 70

Chapter XI. ANTI-FAT AND ANTI-LEAN.—Above or Below the

Normal Standard. Superfluous Fat. Anti-Fat Systems. The Bant-
ing System. Ebstein's Method. Oertel's Method. The Schweninger
System. The Cathell System. Fantastic Remedies. Difficulties of
the Systems. Excessive Thinness. How to " Take on Flesh." The
" Dried Apple " State. Diet for Over-Thinness 78

Chapter XII. COMMON-SENSE METHOD OF FAT-REDUCTION.—

General Observations Regarding Fat-Reduction. A Clean Colon.
Water Drinking. The Bath. Exercise. Breathing. Food and Diet.
Articles of Food Allowed. Articles of Food Prohibited. Directions
for the Vichy-Kissingen Treatment. Results of the Cathell Treat-
ment. Notes regarding Kissingen and Vichy 87
 Chapter XIII. FLESH-REDUCING EXERCISES.—An Effective,
Condensed, Practical System of Fat-Reducing Calisthenics. Reducing
the Abdomen. Ten Effective Abdominal Exercises. Hip and
Thigh Reducing Exercises. Hip Exercises. Extra Suggestions. High-
Kicking Exercise. Massage. Rolling Exercise. Reducing Double
Chin. Caution 98

Chapter XIV. FLESH-DEVELOPING EXERCISES.— Exercise that

Works Both Ways. Developing Hips and Thighs. General Calf De-
velopment. Calf Development Exercises.
Notes. Neck Development.
Neck Development Exercises. Arm Development. Forearm Develop-
ment Exercise. Upper-arm Development Exercises I to V. Wrist De-
velopment Exercise. Caution 109

Chapter XV. BUST DEVELOPMENT.— Building up the Bust.

Preliminary Suggestions. Local Methods of Bust Development.
Flabby Breast Treatment. Firming the Breasts. Simple Hints in
Bust Development. General Exercises in Bust Development. Bust
Development Exercises I, II, III, and IV. The " Setting-Up " Drill.
Walking, Sitting, Standing 118

Chapter XVI. THE SKIN.— Skin Health. Chapped Skin Chafed

Skin. Sunburn, Freckles, and Tan. How to Cure Sunburn. How
to Cure Tan and Freckles. Liver Spots or Moth Patches. Warts and
Moles. Ringworm. Blackheads: How to Remove Them. White-
heads: How to Cure Them. Dry Skin. Greasy Skin. Red Nose.
Pimples. Local Treatment for Pimples. Removing the Pus. Eczema.
Cold Sores and Fever Blisters 125

Chapter XVII. THE FACE, NECK, AND HANDS— Caring for the
Face. Washing the Face. Cold Cream Treatment. Choice of Soaps.
Choice of Face Powders. Face Creams. Antiseptics. Face-Steaming.
Facial Massage. Directions for Facial Massage. Preliminary Sug-
gestions. Cheek Massage. Forehead and Temple Massage. Chin
Massage. Under-Eye Massage. Ear Massage. Mouth Massage.
Nose Massage. Neck Massage. Wrinkles. The Neck. The Hands.
Hand Massage. Manicuring 135

Chapter XVIII. THE HAIR AND ITS CARE.— General Health and
the Hair. The Comb. The Brush. Combing the Hair. Brushing
the Hair. Airing the Hair. Scalp Massage. " Weeding-out " the
Hair. Washing the Hair and Scalp. The Shampoo. How to Sham-
poo. Dry Shampoo. The Hair at Night. Hair Tonics 146

Chapter XIX. HAIR TROUBLES.— Falling-out of the Hair. How

Hair Becomes Thin. The Cause of Thinning Hair. Dandruff. How
to Cure Dandruff. Baldness. Hair-Splitting. Hair Lice. Premature
Grayness. Superfluous Hair. Coloring the Hair. A Sane System of
Instruction on the Cure of Troubles of the Hair 156

Chapter XX. THE EYES, TEETH, AND FEET.— The Eyes and their
Care. The Eye-Cup. Eye-Washes. Eye Massage. Cinders. Eye-
brows and Eyelashes. Scanty Eyebrows and Eyelashes. Curling
Eyelashes. The Teeth and their Care. Brushing the Teeth. Bad
Breath: Its Cause and Cure. The Dentist. The Feet and their Care.
Foot-baths. S'nces and Stockings, Toenails, Corns, and Bunions.
Excessive Perspiration of the Feet. The Chiropodist 165

Chapter XXI. THOUGHT AND BEAUTY.— Mind and Body. Emo-

tion and Appearance. Mental Pictures. Thought and Beauty:
their Connection. Self-Treatment by Mind-Power. Full Directions
for Treatment of Important Complaints. Controlling the Emotions.
A Secret of the Orient. Another Little Secret. Making Your Ideals
Become Real. The Law of Compensation 173
 To
ELIZABETH TOWNE,
Whose Writings have been an Inspiration to Thou-
sands of Men and Women Climbing the
Ladder of Attainment, This Little
Book is Lovingly Dedicated
By ITS AUTHOR
 chapter i.

Foreword.
gj»T is the duty of every woman to be-
come and remain as beautiful as pos-
sible. It is also one of the greatest
of woman's pleasures to be and re-

main beautiful. This co-ordination

of pleasure and duty is instinctive in

the nature of woman, from the very

nature of her being, and arises from
impulses traveling over the path of
;
;J
centuries of evolution, gaining force
SUSsmS with each century of its travel. It is

as natural for a woman to desire to be beautiful as it

is for her to love and to wish to be loved. In fact, the

desire springs from the same root as the love instinct
and may be considered as a part thereof. No woman
requires any argument to convince her of the value
and desirability of beauty and physical perfection.

She instinctively recognizes this fact and takes it as a

matter of course. Her only concern is that regarding
the ways and means, the methods and systems, best
adapted to transmute her desires into accomplished
facts, her ideals into realities.

Lack of Popular Instruction. This universal desire on

7
the part of woman to gain and preserve physical beauty-
has caused many to devote their best thought to the
subject, and there has developed a well-tested set of

rules calculated to point out the way to the inquiring

woman. But, alas, many of the best authorities on the
subject have written only for their professional brethren
in ponderous text-books, and in technical terms, so that
their work is not available to the average woman. And,
equally regrettable, the growing and insistent demand
for authoritative teaching on this subject has caused a
host of inexperienced, unqualified writers to flood the
market with books, booklets, newspaper and magazine
articles, on the subject of womanly beauty, the result

being that the inquiring woman is puzzled and per-

plexed in her efforts to reconcile the glaring discrepan-
cies in these writings, and to put into practice the vague,
contradictory advice and instructions so glibly given
with so little basic merit. Moreover, the field has been
invaded by the "cranks," those earnest fanatics with
their many fanciful theories and fantastic practices which
have caused disgust and disillusionment to so many
women. And, worst of all, the "quack" has taken ad-
vantage of this splendid opportunity to gather a golden
harvest from anxious women who have been deluded by
glowing advertisements and seductive promises, and
who often have invested goodly sums of money
in worse then worthless nostrums and absurd para-
phernalia.

The Leaven of Truth. But, fortunately, there has

8
remained enough of the yeast of truth to leaven the
mass, and there has arisen a constantly growing body of
competent teaching on the subject, open to those who
know where to look, and who are competent to dis-
tinguish truth from error, and to separate the wheat
from the chaff. It is for the purpose of saving the aver-
age woman this perplexing search, and to furnish her
with the gist of the best information on this subject,
that this little book is written. Its writer feels that she

has had the experience qualifying her for the task, the
information to impart, the discernment and judgment
to separate the "worth while" from the worthless, and
the ability to condense into the space of a few pages
that which ordinarily might be expanded in a set of
several large volumes.

The "Why" and the "How." To begin with, the

writer wishes to be clearly understood that she is

presenting no new, startling, or "patent" system of

beauty-culture, which will revolutionize the subject.
Instead, she has been careful to present to your attention
only the kernel of such systems as have been advocated,
tested, and practiced by the best authorities of this and
other countries, and which have "made good." This
book represents the most conscientious research and
the most careful selection. The writer feels that she is

presenting to her readers a diet of pure grain, with lit-

tle or no chaff. Every page contains condensed, valu-

able information, theory being but little touched upon,
and practice being emphasized, although, of course, she
 —

has striven to show the reason underlying her advice

the "why" as well as the "how."
"All Beauty Comes from Within." The reader should
understand from the beginning that the best authorities
agree in the belief that there is no method whereby a
woman may gain, preserve, or regain beauty solely from

"the outside." While there are certain things which

will enhance the physical charms, there must always be
a foundation of sound physical condition underlying the
outside treatment and supporting it. "All beauty
comes from within," says a well-known French writer,

and this axiom is heartily agreed to by the present

writer.

Beauty More than "Skin-Deep." By "the inside,"

and "within," the writer means the physical organism
of the woman which is affected for good or ill by con-
ditions of health and disease, respectively. A good,
clean, strong, healthy body is the only foundation for
real beauty, and the first work of the beauty-seeker is to

bring about such a physical condition if she has it not

already. It is true that one may sometimes conceal an
unhealthy and poorly nourished body by means of
cosmetics and similar masks. But this, at the best, is

but putting on a coat over an unpleasant surface

material, and the illusion will not last long. The aim
of the true teacher of beauty-culture should be "beauty
from the inside," and "beauty all the way through."
The old saying that "beauty is but skin-deep" is not
true.

10
 Digging the Foundations. You may at first ex-

perience a feeling akin to disappointment, when I now

tell you that the beauty-building process begins with
the removal of that most common complaint known as

costiveness, or constipated bowels; and that the first

building work on the new foundations is that of restor-

ing to the bowels a natural, healthy, normal method of

activity. Rather prosaic and unromantic, isn't it,

milady? And yet it is most necessary. You will thank

me a thousand times for this advice, if you persist and
follow me to the end, in practice as well as in the reading
of my words.
Beautiful "All the Way Through." You may ob-
ject that you are not troubled with constipation, that
you have a call of nature each day. Never mind, read
the next chapter and then decide whether what you say
is true. If you are at all interested in the subject of in-
ner cleanliness, and the blooming health which results
therefrom, you will do well to read carefully what I

have now to say to you on this most important subject,

disagreeable and unromantic though it be.

My experience has been that the facts related in the

next chapter will be a surprise to the average woman,
and will throw light upon many unpleasant conditions
which have previously annoyed and perplexed her; and
will enable her to account for a number of disagreeable
symptoms and conditions which have been obstacles to
her in her search for beauty. Therefore, I state them at
the very beginning and lay such great stress upon them.
11
 chapter ii.

The Root of Physical Evil.

82 NE of the most frequent causes of

general physical disorder, discomfort,
and physical unsightliness is that
most disagreeable of bodily com-
plaints known as constipation.
Constipation. Constipation is

caused by an undue retention of the

refuse of the system in the large
intestine or colon, or, rather, by the
imperfect evacuation thereof. The
causes of constipation are various.
Often it is caused by a torpid condition of the liver.

Again it arises from a loss of tone in the muscular

coat of the alimentary canal. In some cases it is due
to the eating of an excessive amount of food, par-

ticularly when the food is of a nature difficult of

digestion.

On the other hand, many diseases have their origin

in a constipated colon, and it is but slight exaggeration

to echo the saying of a well-known, old-time physician,
who said: "Constipation is the root of all physical
ills." As we proceed, we shall see more clearly why
this is so.

12
 —
Constipation is very common, especially among

those who lead a sedentary life. It is, perhaps, more

common among women than men, probably because
the majority of women do not have sufficient exercise in
the open air, and also, very likely, because the average
woman is apt to defer prompt response to the calls of

nature, while the average man is more likely to act more

speedily in response to nature 's alarm.
Results of Constipation. A medical authority sums
up the more common ills arising from constipation as
follows: "In most cases there is headache, and, if the
disease is protracted, there is apt to follow colic, hem-
orrhoids, cutaneous eruptions, hysteria, or even
epilepsy." Among the more common results arising

from a constipated colon are a furred tongue, sallow

and muddy complexion, pimply and rough skin, and a
foul breath, all of which are most undesirable, and
which tend to render the person unattractive in

appearance.
The Nature of Constipation. Let me now briefly
consider the nature of constipation, that you may real-
ize its real causes, its seriousness, and the desirability

of correcting the complaint. For remember that con-

stipation can be overcome by the exercise of a little

care, the taking of a few simple precautions, and the

following of a simple plan of nature cure all without
the use of drugs. Surely it is worth while to spend a few
moments in acquainting one's self with the nature of

this pernicious complaint, even though the details may

13
be considered as not exactly "nice." The complaint
itself is far from "nice," and one should not shrink from
a few unpleasant details, when one considers what an
unpleasant condition may be removed by the result of
the knowledge to be obtained from a consideration of
these details. Foul drains and sewers are not pleasant
subjects for thought; and yet one must become aware of
their existence, in order to correct the trouble, and to
restore them to a state of cleanliness and sanitary con-
dition, that one may be benefited by their offices, in-

stead of being poisoned and contaminated by their

proximity. As we proceed, you will see that the anal-

ogy is not forced, for a constipated colon is as foul as

any bad drain or sewer that ever existed.

The Colon. To understand the causes and nature of

constipation, we must acquaint ourselves, first, with the
nature and offices of the colon, that great sewer of the
body. The colon is the large bowel or canal which
carriesaway from the body the refuse matter of the
system which has been discarded by the stomach and
small intestines after they have taken from the food
material the nourishment contained therein. The colon
is nearly five feet in length, rising upward along the
right-hand side of the abdomen, then passing across to
the upper left-hand side, then down to the lower left-

hand side. When the colon reaches the lower left-hand

side of the abdomen, it forms a peculiar twist or curve
called the sigmoid flexure, and then grows much smaller
in its final descent, terminating in what is known as the
14
rectum, or small passage leading to the anus, the latter

being the muscular ring through which the waste mat-

ter takes its final exit from the body.
In a state of nature, mankind, like the lower animals,
speedily discharges the waste matter from the colon,
when the call of nature prompts, by what is known as a
"passage" or "movement" of the bowels. Primitive
mankind, like the lower animals, eating the proper
amount of fruits, etc., drinking a proper amount of

fluids, and finally, responding readily to natural calls,

carried out nature's plans. But civilized mankind not

only refuses to eat a sufficient amount of fruits, and
still more positively refuses to drink a sufficient amount
of fluids to carry off the waste matter, and, finally, post-

pones the response to nature's call until the nerves and

muscles operating the colon, rectum, and anus become
discouraged and manifest a tendency to refuse to func-
tion normally —and that terrible condition known as

constipation results.
The Impacted Colon. Constipation really means a
condition of "crowding together in a small space." In
a constipated colon the refuse matter is crowded and
squeezed together into a smaller and then still smaller
space, until it becomes a hard, tough mass instead of
the soft, moist substance that nature intended it to be.
The colon, weakened by careless habits, fails to readily

and speedily discharge its normal amount of refuse, and

a portion of the waste matter remains within its length,

being packed tighter and tighter each day. Moreover,

15
the colon is filled with numerous minute absorbent
tubes which drain off the fluids of the retained waste
matter, and reabsorb the same into the system, which
not only tends to poison the blood but also to convert
the remaining solid waste material into averyhard mass.
I shall speak of the evil effects of this drained-off fluidic

matter a little later on; let me first consider the undesir-

able effects of the impacted hard solid matter left in the
colon.

The Defective Drain Pipe. In the first place, an im-

pacted or constipated colon tends to gather hardened
material around its outer edges, leaving a small opening
in the center of the mass through which a small amount
of waste matter is forced, from time to time, toward the
lower end of- the colon. This small amount may be
passed off in a slight movement, as often as once a day,
so that a person may really be very constipated and yet
have a small movement once a day, and thus fail to dis-
cover her actual condition. In such cases, the discharge
is from the lower end of the colon only, and some of the
worst cases of constipation may be accompanied by
these slight daily passages. In the meantime, the upper
part of the colon (excepting a small opening in the cen-
ter of the mass) may be tightly packed with a hard, foul
mass of putrescent waste matter, bearing down the
abdomen, pressing on delicate organs, pushing out of

place important parts of the physical machinery, and

tending to poison the entire system like a sewer or drain
pipe which "backs up."

16
 Startling Facts. The annals of medical science
throw a startling light on the subject of the amount of

this impacted matter that a constipated colon may hold,

and the condition of this matter so retained within it.

Some of the best authorities state that a badly impacted

colon will often contain as much waste matter as it
would ordinarily require several normal colons to hold.
In some cases the hardened matter weighs many pounds,
adding materially to the weight and size of the person,

and pushing out of place, or bearing heavily upon, some

of the most delicate and sensitive portions of the sexual

organism, the result of the latter being particularly

detrimental. In some cases the impacted matter is as
hard as soft coal, and packed into large bunches or
lumps, particularly in the sigmoid flexure.
The Cause of Many Ills. A medical authority says
on this subject: " Occasionally a cavity will become so
greatly enlarged as to be mistaken for an ovarian tumor
or a malignant growth of some abdominal organ
. . . When the accumulations are large, the increased
weight of the colon tends to displace it; then the trans-
verse colon may descend even into the pelvis. An
impacted colon, in an adult, may present a circumference
of fifteen inches . . . The mass may be so enormous as
to press upon any organ located in the abdomen, inter-

fering with its functions; thus we may have pressure on

the liver that arrests the flow of bile; or, upon the uri-
nary organs, crippling their functions." Many women
seeking in vain for relief from uterine complaints, might
17
 —

easily find relief and health by removing the real cause

constipation.
Poisoning the System. Finally, the reabsorption of

the fluidic portion of the waste matter back into the

system, tends to poison the whole s} r stem. Think of

having a foul sewer in your system, pouring out its

putrid matter into your blood; rendering your breath

foul and your complexion muddy or sallow; filling your
skin with blotches, spots, or pimples; giving a muddy
look to your eyes, and a yellow tinge to your eyeballs;

causing you to exude strong, sweaty perspiration

(nature's effort to throw out of the system the foul
matter absorbed from the colon); and giving you a
general feverish, nervous, fidgety feeling and an ab-
normal, freaky appetite! Think of it, milady, and then
get to work to get rid of the thing that is causing it!

Now do not rush toward your medicine chest and

proceed to dose yourselves with cathartics. Cure does
not lie in that way. Go to the root of the trouble — re-

move the cause, not the symptoms, and the latter will

disappear together with the cause. This matter is one

well worth while. You will thank me for telling you
of it.

18
 CHAPTER III.

The Uprooting Process.

122 T is a sad commentary upon the aver-
age instruction regarding hygiene
and general physiological topics, to
note how naturally the mind of the

average individual turns toward

cathartic drugs the moment that
the subject of constipation and its

attendant ills is brought up in con-

versation or writing. The purgative
or cathartic pill habit is well-formed
in the case of a large percentage of

persons. They regard the little pill with reverence,

and treat its periodical taking as an almost sacred
rite. They little know that the innocent looking little

pill has done more to establish habitual and chronic con-

stipation than almost any other one thing. The con-
scientious physician will inform you that the habitual
use of purgative drugs is injurious; and also that medical

science knows of no drug cure for chronic constipation.

Many of the best physicians recommend drugless treat-

ment for chronic constipation as the only possible hope.

And yet, as all students of natural healing know, con-

stipation, even in its chronic form, yields readily to
19
rational methods persistently applied and conscien-
tiously conducted. It is these rational methods that
I now ask you to consider.
Purgative Drugs Useless. It must be remembered,
first and last, that purgative drugs do not, and can not,
cure constipation. Their action is that of an irritant of
the organs of digestion and assimilation, these organs
uniting in a vigorous effort to expel the irritating sub-
stances by pouring out fluids to wash them out of the

system, and by Betting up muscular disturbances to ex-

pel them from the bowels. Nature proceeds to expel
the purgative, just as it does the poisonous, or otherwise
harmful, substances which have inadvertently been
introduced into the system. The pains, gripes, and
straining following the use of purgatives, as well as the

general feeling of weakness following the evacuation of

the bowels caused by their use, should plainly show that
the process is unnatural and harmful. Moreover, even
the passages so produced merely pass through the little

opening of a badly impacted colon, and do little or noth-

ing toward removing the hardened substance. And,
again, the effect of a purgative soon "wears off" —that
is, a stronger dose is required, the system has acquired

immunity against the irritating substance.

Flushing the Sewer. Before proceeding to a con-

sideration of the methods whereby a natural habit of

movement of the bowels may be established and main-

tained, in cases in which it has been lost, let us first

consider the best plan of removing the impacted waste

20
matter which has been packed in the colon, particu-
larly in its pockets, curves, and twists. We must pro-
ceed in precisely the same way in which we would were
we desirous of cleaning out any other channel, canal,

gutter, or pipe, i.e., washing it out with water, —turning

the hose into it.

Flushing the colon to remove its accumulated

hardened waste matter is no new remedy. It has

been practiced by many of the best physicians in

hospitals for many years, and is in steady use by
thousands of individuals, many of whom have been
restored to health by its use. It has been brought
into disrepute, at times, owing to the extravagant
claims of some of its more ardent advocates, par-
ticularly in cases in which the method was advanced
as a " great discovery" or "patent method," sold to
suffering patients at a high price.

Some of these over-zealous advocates have gone so

far as to claim that patients would do well to use the
colon flush habitually, discarding the natural movement
of the bowels as antiquated and inefficient. The mere
mention of this extravagant claim should be sufficient

to show its fallacy.

How to Flush the Colon. The sufferer from an im-

pacted colon, or habitual constipation, should start by
flushing the colon with hot water. The injection or

"enema" is applied in the ordinary manner, from one

quart to two quarts of hot water being used for an adult.

In some cases the person will find difficulty in inject-

21
ing more than one quart, in which case no effort should
be made to force more than that amount; later on, two
quarts may be taken easily. As the clogged up material
is removed from the lower part of the colon, the matter

further along will be pushed forward and become

loosened so that it may be removed at the next injection.
Moreover, the first injection will usually remove the
clogged matter resting in and about the sigmoid flexure
and thus make the admission of a larger quantity of

water easier the next time.

In flushing the colon, use the ordinary bulb syringe
or a fountain syringe, either of which may be procured
from any druggist at a nominal price. Use water about
as hot as you would use in a "hot-water" wash of the

face and hands —your hand will indicate the tempera-

ture. Lukewarm water tends to produce cramp-pains
in the colon, and, on the other hand, scalding hot water
would inflame the mucous membrane. Follow the
temperature above indicated, using the hand as a
thermometer.
Assume any position which may be most comfort-
able to you, in taking the enema, the kneeling position
being preferred by many. Placing a little vaseline,

cold cream, or even soap, on the tip of the injection tube

will cause it to be more easily introduced into the anus.

If the water does not flow freely at first partially with-

draw the point, and then gently press it forward again,

and the flow will follow. At first there will probably be

manifested a desire to evacuate the water injected the

22
first few moments, but strive to control and resist this,

and the feeling of discomfort will disappear. After the

water reaches the sigmoid flexure, it begins the real
work of flushing the colon. In case the lower part of
the colon is badly impacted you may first allow that to
be discharged, and then resume the main process of
colon-cleansing.

After the proper amount of water has been injected,

rest quiet a few moments, rubbing and kneading the
abdomen gently in order to loosen the impacted par-
ticles of waste matter in the colon. Then take the closet
seat, and allow the water and accumulations to pass
from you. You will be surprised, and perhaps shocked,
by the quantity and character of the foul matter then

discharged, and you will require no further proof of the

value of the treatment.

You may have several subsequent small passages
within an hour after taking the injection. You may
also notice an increased flow of urine, as the kidneys

will absorb some of the water injected, and will dis-

charge it in the usual way. You will probably have no
regular movement the day following the flushing but do
not let that worry you as nature will soon re-establish
normal conditions. At first flush the colon twice a

week; then once a week; then once every other week;

then once a month; and so on steadily increasing the
period between flushings until you discontinue alto-
gether. Some persons prefer to take a regular flushing
say once a month, as a preventive of constipation;
23
others once every three months; others, only when ex-

ceptional conditions seem to warrant its use. Use your

own discretion in the matter, according to your own ex-

perience and preferences. I advocate the colon flush

here principally for the purpose of the primary cleans-
ing of the colon, preparatory to the beginning of a
rational course of living, to the consideration of which

we shall now proceed.

The Drugless Cure of Constipation. The drugless

cure of constipation begins with the removal of the

debris of the past unnatural mode of living, to the end

that Nature may henceforth perform her office in a nor-

mal manner. The balance of the cure consists in a

manner and mode of natural living — eating, drinking,

exercising, relaxing, and sleeping, easy of performance

and wonderfully efficacious in its results. And, most

wonderful of all, you will find that this course of living

will not only cure the constipation, and restore normal

and natural functioning of the organs of excretion, but

also that your entire physical being will respond to the

treatment indicated, and that you will become gener-
ally healthy, strong, vigorous, energetic, and above all

BEAUTIFUL, as a consequence. Is this not worth

while, milady?

24
 CHAPTER IV.

Beauty and Internal Cleanliness.

I2|!T is axiomatic that beauty is based on

cleanliness. Without cleanliness

| there can be no true beauty; and

even where nature has been most
kind to the young woman or girl

in the direction of bestowing the

beauty of youth, that beauty can-
not long be preserved unless its

owner observes the rules of physical

cleanliness.
ijHsS The best authorities, moreover,
agree in the belief that there cannot exist external
cleanliness and beauty unless there be also internal

cleanliness. It is only when mankind departs from the

natural manner of life and living that this internal

purity is lost, and there develops a need of instruction

on the subject — a calling back to nature.

Water: Nature's Elixir. In order to create and
preserve internal cleanliness, nature employs a most
simple means and a most simple agent, namely,
WATER. Science informs us that water is closely

connected with life in all of its forms. The elementary

forms of life originated in the water of the sea, and in
25
the bodies of all the higher living creatures it is neces-

sary for every cell of the body to be supplied with its

bath of water in order that it may live and prosper.

There can be no life without water. The plant withers
and fades if its water be withdrawn, and animal life

soon perishes if the water supply be withheld. A half-

withered plant is not beautiful; neither is a half-with-

ered woman beautiful; and the cause is frequently
found to be the same, lack of a proper supply of fluids.

Over eighty per cent of the human body is fluid, and

the remaining twenty per cent is dependent upon the
fluid portion for life, strength, and activity. It is im-
possible for any of our bodily organs to function prop-

erly unless tiny arc supplied with a sufficient amountof

fluids. Look for a moment at the following list of im-

portant offices performed by the fluids of the system:

Some Vital Facts. Every twenty-four hours there
is passed from the body of the healthy adult human
being over one and one half pints of water in the form
of perspiration; and nearly three pints of water in the

form of urine, etc. The blood, upon which all physical

nourishment depends, is principally composed of water
which serves to carry the particles of nourishment to all

parts of the body, and at the same time to carry back on

its return journey the waste discarded particles of

refuse thrown off by the cells of the body. The gastric

juices, the pancreatic fluids, and the other fluids of the

digestive system, including the bile, are principally

water.
26
 Unless sufficient water be taken into the system each
day, the organs cannot perform their work properly;
the waste matter of the system is not thrown off, but
gathers and accumulates in a filthy condition, and
disease results. Such diseased conditions naturally
reflect themselves on the complexion and general ap-
pearance, and beauty fades. Reverse the process, give
the body the necessary fluids, and there results health,

and finally beauty. So, by all means, milady seeking

beauty, you should see that you partake of a sufficient
amount of fluids daily in order to accomplish the above
desirable results.

The lack of sufficient fluids is especially noticed in

the case of the bowels. One of the principal causes of

constipation is the lack of sufficient fluids, which causes

the bowels to become clogged with foul matter with the
many evils which follow in its train. It is an absolute
fact that without sufficient water the bowels will not oper-

ate naturally. And it is likewise an absolute fact that

natural habits may be restored to the bowels by restor-

ing the natural amount of fluids to the system by drink-

ing the proper amount of water.
The animals drink what water their systems require ;

primitive races of mankind do the same; and so do

young children, until they are spoiled by the customs
of their elders. The primitive man, living near cool

streams, does not need to be told to drink water, for he

does so instinctively. But the dwellers in houses,
especially those living in the cities and towns, find the

27
warm water of summer disagreeable, and gradually
neglect to drink water as nature intended. Women,
especially, fall into this mistake, finding it "too much
trouble to run for water" when they are busy with
household work, social duties, etc.

Cause and Effect. Many women will indignantly

answer that they have never drunk water except in

small daily quantities, and they have never felt the
need of more. Certainly, good sisters, but what is the
result? I venture to say that in nearly every case
where a woman has failed to partake of a natural amount
of fluids, it will be found that her skin is dry, wrinkled,

and sallow or muddy; her eyes cloudy; her eyeballs

yellowish; her face and body somewhat pimply; her
bowels costive; her urine sciTnty and strong; her
perspiration strong and disagreeable; her breath
unpleasant ; and her body anaemic ; at least to a cer-

tain degree.

Whenever I meet a woman whose face resembles a

dried apple, I know certainly that that woman does not
drink enough fluids. The same cause which results in

the drying of the apple, operates in the case of the

dricd-up woman —lack of water.
Moreover, I am convinced that in many cases of

female troubles, particularly in difficult and painful

menstruation, a lack of the proper amount of fluids will

be found to exist. These are important matters, and

closely bound to the general subject of beauty, and
must be taken into consideration by all women who are

28
desirous of gaining, regaining, or retaining physical
beauty.
The Normal Quantity of Fluids. The best author-
ities on the subject of physiology hold that the normal
amount of fluids required daily by the average adult is

not less than two quarts daily. The best results are
obtained if this amount is well distributed throughout
the day, small quantities being taken at a time. This
amount is actually needed to carry off the waste prod-
ucts of the system, through the perspiration, urine,
and bowels, and it must be supplied, else trouble results.
Internal cleanliness, health, and beauty demand this.

Therefore, see that you follow the rule.

It is well to acquire the habit of taking a drink of

fresh water the first thing in the morning. Form the
habit, and thereafter you will enjoy the morning "wash-
ing out" of the stomach. A drink of water just before
retiring is also a good habit to form, for it "works
while you sleep." During the day the water may be
taken in small quantities. A little water before meals
will often freshen and tone up the stomach. The
principal objection to water drinking during meals is

that it causes the bad habit of "washing down" of the

food, thereby robbing the food of the advantage of
proper mastication, salivation, etc. Beyond this, there

is very little objection to drinking a reasonable amount

of water at mealtime, although some authorities have
strenuously opposed the use of any fluids at such times,
particularly in the case of over-fatness.

29
 Hot Water Drinking. Some will find the before-

breakfast cup of hot water very beneficial, in connection

with the regular habit of daily water drinking above
recommended. In such case the water should be about
as hot as a cup of good hot tea. Hot water in the

morning has a tendency to loosen up the mucous

accumulations in the stomach, and to otherwise dis-
solve and carry off refuse matter. Many cases of dys-
pepsia and weak stomach have been cured in this way.
There are those who use a cup of hot water taken one
half hour before each meal with excellent results in
health and beauty.
The Water Cure of Constipation. And now for an
important statement, viz. : The cultivation of the proper,

natural, normal habit of water drinking, as stated in this

chapter, will result in the complete cure of costiveness or

constipation with all of its train of ills.

In other chapters I shall have something to say

regarding the effect of certain foods, exercises, etc., on
constipation, but the real backbone of the cure is the
proper amount of fluids daily taken into the system, as
stated herein. Moreover, along with the improved
bowel action will come a more regular discharge of
waste matter through the kidneys, skin, etc. The com-
plexion will clear, the cheeks fill up, the body become
plumper, the eyes brighter, the breath sweeter, and a
general appearance of freshness will take the place of
the "dried-apple" appearance of which we have spoken.
Surely this is well worth while, milady, is it not? The
30
remedy is simple but the results are often miraculous
in their speedy and effective action.
The Human Plant. Think of yourself as a beauti-
ful flowering plant, which requires a proper amount of
water each day in order to keep fresh and fragrant.
And also remember what happens to the plant when the
proper amount of water is withheld.

31
 chapter v.

External Cleanliness.

iO the average person the idea of the

bath is merely that of removing
from the surface of the body the
accumulated dust and foreign mat-
ter deposited there by the wind,
contact with other material, etc.,

the main idea regarding the process

of removal being that of avoidance
of a "dirty" appearance, the satis-

faction of aesthetic feelings, and

™" R'
the bestowing of a feeling of phys-
ical comfort. These conceptions and ideas are all very
worthy and are very well so far as they go, but they do
not go far enough. There is far more to the idea and
intent of the bath than those things, as we shall see as we
proceed, particularly in the direct relation of the bath
to beauty culture.

The True Inwardness of the Bath. In order to under-

stand the true inwardness of the bath, it is first neces-
sary to understand something of the structure and aci ion
of the skin. This understanding once had, one then
may readily see the why and wherefore of the bath, and
its close relation to beauty.

32
 In the first place, the skin is far more than a mere
covering to protect the inner parts of the body; far more
than being the external surface of thousands of minute
nerves designed to convey sensations from the outside
world to the brain. Important as are these offices of

the skin, it has other offices of equal importance, which

have a direct relation to the subject we are now con-

Among the less-thought-of functions of the skin are

the following: (1) the regulation of the temperature of
the body by means (a) of the evaporation of the per-
spiration to produce coolness; and (b) the reaction or

flow of the blood to the surface to produce heat; the

first being a protection against heated atmosphere,
and the second a protection against the effects of ex-

treme cold; (2) the work of excreting, or carrying off

from the body, the waste products and refuse matter of

the system, by means of the perspiration. When the
importance of these functions is recognized, we may
readily perceive the close connection between the cleans-
ing bath and beauty, for without a healthy condition
of the skin there can be no such thing as general beauty,
and more particularly no such thing as a clear and natu-
ral complexion.
The skin of the human being is composed of two
separate and distinct layers, namely: (1) the dermis or
true skin; and (2) the epidermis, or scarfskin. The
dermis, or true skin, lies beneath the epidermis or scarf-
skin, and is composed of muscular fibers, blood vessels,

33
etc., sweat glands, and the follicles of the hair. The
epidermis, or scarfskin (also often called "the cuticle"),
rests over the dermis, and is simply a collection of skin
cells, it containing no blood vessels, nerves, etc. It is

this outer skin, cuticle, or epidermis, which "peels off"

occasionally without damage to the underlying layers.
The epidermis, or cuticle, is continuously forming
new cells, and at the same time shedding or throwing off
dead cells in the form of a dry, scaly dust. These dis-

carded scabs or skin cells are thrown off by the millions

on the body of every human being in the space of a few

hours. Being very tiny, they are not readily noticed
except when they accumulate on the surface of the body
becoming mixed with the exuding perspiration and oils

of the bod} in which case they form the tiny

r
, rolls which
are sometimes noticed when the body is scrubbed. It

is the cuticle, or epidermis, which forms the outer

"complexion," although, of course, it is influenced by
the condition of the underlying dermis from which its

fresh cells arise.

I have spoken of the offices of the skin, whereby the

surface of the body is protected against excessive cold
or excessive heat. It follows that if the skin is not kept
in a healthy condition, these offices will not be properly
performed, and the skin will consequently suffer.

Proper bathing affords us the solution of the trouble.

Perspiration. Very few persons realize that the
skin acts as one of the great organs of excretion whereby
the system discards its waste matter; the other impor-
34
tant excretory organs being the bowels, the kidneys, and
the breath. There is, as you know, a great quantity of
impure waste matter generated in the work of the body
which is —
of the nature of foul refuse the garbage of the
system —and which must be thrown out of the system
regularly and promptly else ill health ensues and beauty
disappears. The great mass of coarser refuse is carried
off through the bowels; a large amount is carried off in
the urine, through the work of the kidneys; a small
portion is carried off through the breath; and a very
considerable portion is carried off in the perspiration,
through the pores of the skin. When the kidneys are
not working properly, the skin is called upon to do
extra work in the direction of throwing off the debris of

the system.
The skin of the adult human being contains over
three million tiny sweat glands, the combined length of
which exceeds five miles. The blood niters out into

these tiny sweat glands a large amount of waste matter

every hour of the day and the glands carry it in the shape

of perspiration to the surface of the body, where it is

cast off. The perspiration rapidly evaporates, if the

epidermis is clean, and is scarcely noticed except in very
warm weather. Even warm, dry air takes it up rap-
idly without it But when the atmos-
being noticed.
phere is warm and humid the perspiration gathers in
drops. Exercise also increases the perspiration, and
thus renders it noticeable.
Poisonous Waste Matter. An analysis of the
35
perspiration shows it to be of a poisonous nature, as
might be expected when it is remembered that it is

composed of water carrying in solution the waste prod-

ucts of the system. In many respects the perspiration

is very similar to urine. If the colon is impacted (see

previous chapters) the perspiration is apt to be very

strong and disagreeable, for it must carry off the foul
matter which should naturally have been carried off by
the bowels. Likewise, if sufficient fluids are not par-
taken of, the kidneys are not doing their normal share
of carrying off the garbage of the system, and, as a con-
sequence, the perspiration must do extra work and
accordingly is strong and disagreeable.
Keeping the Pores Clean. All medical text-books

explain how necessary it is that the skin shall be kept

clean and free from obstructions in order that the
perspirationmay flow freely and readily, and the foul
waste matter may be discarded from the system. Cases
in which large portions of the skin have been covered
tightly with substances like varnish, etc., have resulted
in illness and in some cases even in death, the cause be-
ing that the poisons of the perspiration not being allowed
to flow forth have been turned back into the system and
have poisoned it. Proper bathing keeps the surface of
the skin in a clean, healthy condition, so that nature's
work is properly performed.
The skin also performs an office similar to breathing,
in which carbonic acid gas is thrown off, and oxygen in-

haled. A healthy condition of the skin is vitally neces-

36
sary while an unhealthy condition interferes with it.

Another reason for the bath!

Oils of the Skin. And, finally, the skin when kept in

a healthy condition secretes a thin delicate oil for the

purpose of keeping itself soft and flexible, and for pre-

serving the hair. When the body is kept in a clean con-

dition this oil readily evaporates and is not ordinarily
noticeable. But when the body is not kept clean this
oil has a tendency to accumulate and gum up and render
the skin sticky and greasy. Still another reason for
proper bathing.
And so, now, milady, do you not see that the bath is

a very important thing in the work of beauty culture?

If you would be healthy and beautiful you join the

Divine Order of the Daily Bath — or several daily

baths, as Lillian Russell advises.
The complexion itself, directly and immediately, is

dependent for its health, freshness, brightness, clear-

ness, and beauty, upon the degree of cleanliness given

it. Do not make the mistake of supposing that one

can give great care to one part of the skin — the facial
complexion, for instance —and at the same time neglect
the remainder of the surface of the skin. The skin, as a

whole, must be kept in a good condition, else the facial

complexion will not be as its owner would wish it to be.
The combination of internal cleanliness, and external
cleanliness — the internal bath of the normal amount of
fluids, and the external bath of the proper kind and of

proper frequency — will surely repay the woman for the

37
time and trouble expended upon it. The ancients
recognized this fact, and one of the most important ad-
juncts of the apartments of the Roman and Grecian
women were the baths and the drinking water systems.
The "beauty parlors" of the ancients were the bath
apartments, some of which attained a degree of luxury
unsurpassed even in this day of reckless expenditure on
the part of wealthy persons.
The Bath and Beauty. The woman who wishes to
gain, regain, or retain, her beauty, must make up her
mind right at the beginning that cleanliness of the body
is necessary for the attainment of physical beauty.
Not merely the customary hasty "wash off, " which or-

dinary decency demands from all, but a systematic,

careful, thorough course of bathing, sufficient to keep
the skin sweet, pure, and clean, and to allow nature 's
work to proceed without unnecessary obstacles.
This task will not require much time, but it will require

thought, perseverance, and lust, but not least, INTER-

EST, for without interest no task is ever accomplished
successfully.

38
 CHAPTER VI.

The Science of the Bath.

Iff ERHAPS the best way to begin our

consideration of the subject of the
science of the bath, would be to give
you the celebrated rules of the bath
formulated by Sir Erasmus Wilson
of England, a noted authority. His
rules are as follows:

Wilson's Rules of the Bath.

I. Rub the skin and limbs gently
with the hands, while in the bath.
II. Try to feel when you have
had enough :
—some can bear immersion in water longer
than others.
III. Never abuse the bath by bathing too long;
your own sensations are a better, test than time.
IV. Dry the body leisurely, with moderate friction,

beginning with the head; then take the arms and body,
then the legs and feet.

V. Rough friction of the skin is never necessary;

neither in the bath, nor out of it.

VI. Friction has three purposes, namely: to move

the circulation in the skin; to exercise the muscles; and
to rub off dirt and loose skin.

39
 VII. The cleansing of the skin is very much assisted
by soap; soap is a tonic to the skin and very wholesome;
it removes the old surface of the skin, and the coating
of dirt that is apt to form upon it.

VIII. Never dress until the body is perfectly dry;

then the clothing should be resumed leisurely, to give

the skin time to feel and breathe the air.

IX. (This rule applies to open-air bathing, only.)

X. If the bather be in a state of perspiration, he
should take a tepid bath before he resorts to the cold
bath. And if he be exhausted or fatigued, he may still

take a tepid bath, but on no account take a cold bath

at such a time.
XI. The time spent in the bath must be regulated
by the sensations of the bather; it may be longer for a
tepid bath than for a cold bath.
Temperatures of the Bath. There is some confusion
among the authorities regarding the distinctions of
temperature between the several forms of baths, but the
best authorities practically agree upon the following
table of temperatures:

Hot bath above 98 deg. Far.

Warm bath 90 to 98 deg. Far.
Tepid bath 80 to 90 deg. Far.
Cool bath 65 to 80 deg. Far.
Cold bath below 65 deg. Far.

There is a difference among individuals, of course, in the

matter of sensation and reaction to the temperature of
40
the bath, but, as a rule, it may be said that a tempera-
ture of less than 80 degrees Fahrenheit will give the
bather the sensation of coolness; while a temperature of
over 90 degrees Fahrenheit will cause the sensation of
warmth. Below 65 degrees Fahrenheit will give a dis-

tinct sensation of "cold"; and above 98 degrees Fah-

renheit will cause a distinct sensation of "hot"; while
a temperature of between 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit
will give a neutral, or "tepid," sensation — neither
warmth nor chill.

The Warm Cleansing Bath. Passing by, for the

moment, the consideration of the hot and the cold baths,
let us consider the most common form of bath, the

warm cleansing bath, which is really of the greatest im-

portance to us in connection with the general subject of

beauty culture. This is the form of bath which is the
most necessary to the woman seeking to gain, regain, or

retain physical beauty; and which is the most nearly

adapted to the requirements of the case. While I am
not assuming that my readers are ignorant of the ordi-

nary requirements of the warm cleansing bath, I believe,

nevertheless, that the following suggestions may be of
benefit to them:
How to take the Warm Bath. I. Never take a hot
bath immediately before, or immediately after, eating a
meal. Never take a bath in less than one hour to one
and one half hours after eating a meal; and never eat ;i

meal in less than one half to three quarters of an hour

after bathing.

41
 II. The best time to take a warm bath is either (a)

the first thing in the morning, immediately after arising;

or (b) about ten o 'clock in the morning; or (c) at night,
the last thing before going to bed. Avoid taking a hot
bath when you are greatly fatigued or when the vitality
is low.
III. Have the temperature of the water pleasant
and agreeable to your individual feelings, avoiding the
sensation of chill on the one hand, and an uncomfort-
able feeling of heat on the other.
The Bathing Mit. It will be found pleasant and
beneficial to use the bathing mit in taking this cleansing

bath. These mits may be purchased at a nominal price

at almost any department store, or drug store they may ;

also be made for one 's self by using ordinary bath towel-
ing or a Turkish bath towel. They should come in pairs,

of course, and should not have thumbs; and should be

large enough to allow the fingers and thumb to be easily

extended within them.

To use these mits to the best advantage, you should
stand up in the bath, put your hands in the mits, wet
the mits thoroughly, and then squeeze some of the water
out of them; then rub the soap well into the mits, and
then soap your body well all over, beginning at the neck

and working down toward the toes. Then rinse out

the mits rapidly, and proceed to give your body a good

thorough scrubbing, from neck to feet. Then, after
rinsing the mits a second time, sink down into the bath

and give yourself a second rubbing over, under the water.

42
 —
Use of the Hands. Finish the bath with a good,
vigorous rubbing-down using your bare hands for this
purpose. Whatever may be the reason, there seems to
be some special virtue in the use of the bare hands upon
the surface of the body, which is not afforded by any
other method. It will also be found advantageous and
beneficial to knead the muscles of the body, rolling them
about, rubbing them, and, in short, giving yourself a
general short-timed massage, while in the bath. Fol-
low the warm bath with a rinsing or spraying of cold
or cool clean water.
Drying the Body. Dry the body, after bathing, with

a good soft, but thick, towel, using some little friction

but avoiding "roughness, " the latter being unnecessary

and besides being injurious to some skins. Then ad-
minister to your body a brief but effective patting or
"spanking" over the entire body, using your bare hands,
this exercise imparting life and vigor to the flesh and
skin, and leaving a most pleasant and invigorating feel-

ing as a result.
Then dress yourself comfortably. It will be found
that the performance of some light work after the bath
such as ridding up the room, light housework, etc.

will be beneficial.

General Advice. Those who live in places in which

access to the ordinary bath tub is not readily had, may
use, as a substitute, a bowl of warm water, using a piece
of oilcloth to stand upon, and adapting the above sug-
gestions to meet the requirements of the case.

43
 A daily bath of the kind above mentioned is recom-
mended by the best authorities as reasonable, but, if
same is impossible, do the best you can. Do not be-
come a bath fanatic or "crank," however, nor try to
scrub off your cuticle as if you were trying to remove it

in its entirety.

Soap and Bran Bags. Use a good mild soap.

Avoid the use of strong soaps, as the excessive use of
them will tend to render the skin harsh and scaly.
Many women find great satisfaction in the use of "bran
bags" in the bath, as these give to the water an agree-
able softness. These bags consist simply of ordinary
bran confined in a thin gauzy bag. The glutinous sub-
stance escapes through the bag, without the danger of
the bran clogging up the drainpipes. The bag is placed
in the tub when the water is first turned on and allowed
to remain during the process of filling the tub, and dur-
ing the bath itself. Some use starch, almond meal, or
marshmallow, in place of the bran, but the bran will be
found to answer every purpose. The bran bag is also

used effectively and agreeably in washing the face.

When the daily cleansing bath is found impossible

you should, at least, see that you use warm water and
soap under your armpits, between the thighs, and upon
your feet, at least once a clay, as these parts specially
require attention.
Hot and Cold Baths. I shall not go into detail re-

garding the use of the morning "cold plunge," or the

very hot "soaking" bath, both of which are favored
44
by some persons. The cold plunge or shower is
un-
doubtedly very beneficial to persons of robust
consti-
tution, but the effect is sometimes too
severe for persons
of less ruggedness, in which case the shower or spray
rinsing may be of cool water instead of cold. Use
the spray as cool as you can stand it, and gradually you
will want it colder. Cold water is tonic, and should be
used after the warm bath, avoiding shock but courting
the cold water until it becomes pleasant to the body
winter and summer.

AS
 chapter vii.

Food and Beauty.

ISSN this chapter, it is not my purpose

to lay down a hard and fast rule

regarding the general subject of

dietetics. This would not only be

a most difficult task, so widely do
the authorities differ on many points,

but it would also be one foreign to

the purpose of this work. I shall,

accordingly, stick closely to the

particular row that I am hoeing,
avoiding the tempting digressions,

and confining myself to the special subject of the foods

which affect, favorably or unfavorably, the physical

beauty of the woman.
How Food Affects Beauty. To many, the subject of
food and beauty may seem to be far apart, but those
who have made a close study of the subject know posi-
tively that an improper diet will do more to ruin a good
complexion than almost any other cause; not to speak
of the general evil effect upon the beauty of a woman,
arising from a state of ill health caused by improper
habits of eating, poorly selected foods, etc. The skin
itself is very easily affected by imperfect digestion.
46
 —
Flushing in spots, pimples, irritation of the skin, muddy
complexion, etc., are to be attributed directly to an im-
proper dietary. Moreover, some foods are too fatten-
ing, and thus affect one's beauty. Others render the
skin greasy, coarse, or otherwise unpleasant to the
sight.

The Mixed Dietary. The best authorities are gen-

erally agreed upon the benefits of a mixed dietary. The
result of such a course of diet is held to be far more sat-
isfactory, in the long run, than is any specialized system
based upon fads, "discoveries," or "patented courses."
Common sense and science agree upon this point. Cer-
tain articles are to be touched upon but lightly, or omit-
ted altogether in some cases, but, as a rule, a mixed diet,

of good, wholesome food well masticated — is the best.

General Health and Beauty. And, right here, let me
state an axiom of the beauty-dietary, viz.: Any diet

that is conducive to general health is adapted to beauty

culture; any diet that adversely affects the general health is

unfit for the beauty-seeker. This is true mainly because

the skin is apt to be one of the first points which show
the results of an improper dietary — ill health manifests
itself in symptoms affecting the complexion. Good
meat, fresh fish, bread and butter, milk, fresh vegetables,
fruits, a moderate allowance of sweet things, a little

salt, etc., are not detrimental to general health, and are

therefore fit for the beauty-seeker. Another general
rule, viz. : Any food that disagrees with one will adversely
affect the complexion, and should be cut out of one 's dietary

47
no matter how highly recommended by any authority. Dif-
ferent persons have different idiosyncrasies of diet, and
these must be respected.
The Question of Meats. Meat of the proper kind,

and eaten in moderation, is not injurious to the com-

plexion, notwithstanding the positive statements of
some of the anti-meat authorities. Fried meats are to
be shunned, as a rule; or at least eaten in moderation.
Moreover, meat served with rich dressings and sauces
should be touched lightly — the trouble is with the sauces
and dressings, however, rather than with the meat it-

self. Salt meats, and salt fish, are not harmful in

moderate quantities, if not served too often. Stale meat
and aged poultry — particularly the latter — are to be

avoided. Keep an eye on the cold-storage product.

A little fat meat may be eaten, but beware of too much

fat. Avoid greasy messes of meat; touch the gravy

ladle lightly. Beware of too much "rich" food, meat
dishes, or other forms.

Vegetables. Vegetables, if fresh, are proper articles

of diet for the beauty-seeker. Beware of stale vege-
tables, and avoid fried vegetable dishes.

Fruits. Fruits are good for the table of the beauty-

seeker, if fresh. The juices of fruit are especially
beneficial in msmy respects, and some beauty-culturists
lay great stress upon a liberal use of fruits in this con-

nection.

Laxative Foods. In the cure of constipation the use

of green vegetables, and fresh fruits, are important

48
factors, although the proper use of water must be de-
pended upon as the principal medium of the cure.

Fruit eaten the first thing in the morning meal, and

the last thing at night, have a laxative effect upon the
bowels. Stewed prunes, figs, etc., or baked apples,
may also be used in this way with good results.

Sweet Things. Sweet things, including candies and

prepared sugary things, are good things for the beauty-
seeker to avoid, except occasionally and in moderate
quantities. A little sugar is needed by the system, but
the better way to take it is in sweet fruits, etc., and not
in sweetened dishes or confectionery. Avoid over-indul-
gence in sweets, unless you wish to lay on excessive fat,

and are fond of a pimply, muddy complexion.

Bread and Pastry. Good bread is all right, milady;
but avoid hot bread, hot cakes, pastry, and pies, and
cakes of all kinds — except sparingly. A too liberal in-

dulgence in morning cereal foods, sweetened with sugar,

and generally bolted without mastication, is to be
avoided.
Tea and Coffee. Tea and coffee may well be left
alone by the beauty-seeker; but if she will not make
this sacrifice, let her, at least, use moderation in this
respect. Tannin is excellent for converting the skin

into leather, particularly when mixed with milk and

sugar —but who wants a leather skin?
Alcoholic Drinks. Alcoholic drinks unfavorably
affect the general health, and act directly upon the skin,

rendering tin' complexion blotchy, irritated, and gener-

49
ally in an unsatisfactory condition. A strong temper-
ance sermon could be preached from the standpoint of
the beauty-culturist.
The Two Great Evils. One of the greatest sources of

evil effects arising from eating is the failure to correctly

masticate the food. The second is overeating. Both
of these causes produce direct results upon the complex-
ion, and they should be remembered and avoided.
Mastication. Imperfect mastication, or chewing,
of the food is the source of many complaints arising
from a disordered digestion. Nature intends every
mouthful of food to be thoroughly masticated before it

is passed on to the stomach by being swallowed. Mas-

tication is necessary to break up the food into small par-
ticles so that the digestive juices of the stomach may
easily penetrate them; and also that the food particles
may be thoroughly saturated with saliva, for the saliva
is an important factor in the digestive process, and per-

forms work that no other of the digestive juices can

accomplish.
Remember that you have no gizzard like the fowls;
neither has your stomach any teeth with which to chew
your food after you have swallowed it; nor have you any
saliva stored in your system, other than in the glands of
the mouth. Therefore, the work of mastication and
insalivation must be performed while the food is in the

mouth, or not at all. And, inasmuch as imperfectly mas-

ticated food— food that is "bolted" — has a tendency
to produce disorders of the digestion, and such disorders
50
are reflected by the complexion, it behooves all beauty-
seekers to pay a little attention to the proper chewing of
their food before swallowing it. Take a little time in
chewing your food, and you will not only obtain the
benefits of proper mastication, but will also get more
pleasure out of the taste of the food itself.

Overeating. As for overeating, well ! you should not

need me to tell you that this is harmful and destructive
of beauty. Your common sense should tell you that
overeating will upset your digestion; and as for beauty,
did you ever see a really beautiful glutton? The pig is

not a beautiful animal, is it?

The average woman, who perform

excepting those
hard physical labor, eats too much food and too rich
food. She not only eats too many dishes, and too rich
dishes, but also then nibbles away between meals too —
many candies, too many cakes, too many pies, too many
rich gravies, sauces, and dressings; and, alas, in many

cases, too many lobster suppers. And yet, she expects

to retain her beauty, and even to add to it! She
consults high-priced beauty specialists; reads many
"courses" and "systems"; practices many fantastic

"stunts" to reduce fat and to bring a fresh complexion

— and still keeps on nibbling, nibbling, nibbling, stuff-

ing, stuffing, stuffing! This is not a pleasant thing to

say to you, miladies who love the fleshpots and the
candy boxes, but you must understand this thing if you
would attain that upon which your heart 's desire is set

—Beauty. You must pay the price of Beauty, if you

51
would make it yours; or retain it if it is yours
originally.

The "Forbidden Fruit." To break up the pernicious

habit of overeating and the equally bad one of improper
indulgence in the "forbidden fruits" of the table, re-
quires will power and determination. The psycholo-
gists tell us that the best way to overcome a bad habit
is to build up its opposite — that is, to let the new habit
crowd out the old one. And they are right. The best
way to break off these bad habits of eating is to throw
your whole heart and soul into the habit of eating for
beauty, and the old, bad habits will in time die out. But
be firm with yourself. Do not give way even once, for
each slip undoes much that has been gained — a well-
known writer on psychology says that this is like drop-
ping a ball of yarn that you are winding, you lose by the
drop that which it has taken you much effort to wind.

You have a will within you — why not begin to use it?

Here is your chance.

52
 CHAPTER VIII.

EXERCBSE AND BEAUTY.

|§HE subject of physical exercise has

been brought into disfavor with
many by the general tendency on

Tp 1 the part of writers on the subject to

overemphasize this phase of phys-
ical well-being and to promulgate in-

tricate systems of artificial exercises

which would require the entire time
of the average man or woman to
carry into effect. Like so many
good things, physical culture has
been injured by being overdone by the teachers —there
is such a thing as " too much of a good thing," as all of us
know by experience. I do not purpose falling into this

too common mistake. While fully recognizing the

value of physical exercise, I believe that a woman may
obtain all the requisite exercise in a normal, natural
manner, independent of artificial systems. I shall ad-

vise such a plan of exercising but will also give full

directions for a number of important and useful ex-

ercises for special purposes.

Value of Rational Exercise. It is a fact admitted by

all of the best authorities upon health and beauty, and
53
disputed by none except a few "cranks," that a reason-
able amount of physical exercise is necessary for the
preservation of general health and the possession of
physical beauty. Without exercise the muscles and
tendons of the body tend toward flabbiness and weak-
ness, and the natural firmness of the body is lost. More-
over, there is a tendency to take upon one's self

additional and useless fat. Again, there is a tendency

toward imperfect circulation; and, also, there is apt to
develop a general sluggishness of the excretory organs
which carry off the waste matter through the bowels,
the kidneys, and the perspiration.
Why Exercise is Needed. Exercise, in moderation, is

required to supply the proper conditions under which the

chemical processes of the body are carried on. Nature
has a wonderful laboratory in the human body, in which
countless delicate operations are continuously carried
on. When the system is kept in good condition by
proper exercise, this laboratory works smoothly, easily,
and effectively, manufacturing the many secretions
which are essential to normal functioning, and carrying
off, dissolving, burning up, or transforming the waste

products of the system. Without the proper amount of

exercise, however, these chemical processes cannot be
performed as nature intended, and the result is that the
secretions are not manufactured in the proper propor-
tions, and in the proper degree of strength; neither are
the waste-eliminating processes carried on in a normal
manner; the consequence being that the organs are
54
weakened, and there is stored up in the system a quan-
tity of harmful, poisonous products, which serve to affect

the general tone of the system, and, necessarily, the

physical appearance of the person.
Rational Exercise. But now, milady, all this does
not mean that you should spend your entire time in go-
ing through a long and complicated system of artificial

exercises in order to bring about a physical condition

conducive to beauty. There are, of course, special ex-

ercises adapted to development in certain directions; or

to reduce certain portions of the body, which we shall con-
sider by and by; but, as a rule, the normal amount of
physical exercise necessary to the average woman may
be obtained in the performance of the ordinary house-
hold duties, reasonable walking, and a normal amount
of "play" in the outside air.

Artificial Exercise. The great trouble about arti-

ficial exercises is that they are artificial. That is to
say, they do not call for the co-operation of the mind in
the direction of interest and attention, and without the
co-ordination of the mind the best results are not ob-

tained from physical exercises. In work, other than

mere drudgery, the interest is held, and the necessary
mental co-operation obtained. The same is true in the
case of out-of-door games. And, in walking to and
from a certain point, either on a visit or to make pur-
chases, etc., the mental interest is present; although, a

walk, merely as a Bet performance for exercise, is apt to

lack interest, and consequently benefit, the only escape

55
being the taking of interest in the scenery, the places,
points of interest, and persons passed on the way.
Mental Interest in Exercise. The man who has a
hobby which causes him to do physical work (par-

ticularly in the open air) ; the man or woman who plays

tennis or golf; the woman who takes a hand in the house-
work; all these persons obtain physical exercise of a
quality far surpassing that obtained by the brothers
and sisters who perform physical "stunts" under the
direction of a high-priced physical culture director, as a
rule. The point is that Mental Interest is the leaven
of physical exercise, and when that leaven is missing,
the virtue of the exercise is largely lost. This is a
point better known to psychologists than to the old-
time physical culturist; but the up-to-date physical
culturist is fully aware of this fact, and works it into his

system of exercise with the best results.

Evolution and Exercise. The secret of the importance

of mental interest in exercise, is found in the history of
the evolution of the race. The prime reason why
physical exercise is necessary to the physical well-being
of the human race, is that for countless generations our
ancestors were forced to take physical exercise in their
everyday life, in order to maintain existence and comfort.
The man was forced to roam through the forests hunt-

ing and fishing, climbing trees, fighting wild animals,

escaping from pursuers, etc., and, in the course of time,
the habit of physical exertion was fastened on the race.
The women were kept very busy preparing food, scrap-

56
ing and tanning skins of animals, grinding corn, weaving
baskets and cloth, and in the thousand and one details
of the life of the primitive woman. And, as a conse-
quence, the habit of physical activity was fastened on
the race, in the female as well as in the male line of
descent.

To-day, as a consequence, unless the man is actively

employed in muscular work in his daily occupation, he
suffers from physical inactivity unless he has a safety-
valve in the shape of hunting, fishing, walking, golf,

tennis, etc. And the woman who has not the advantage
(speaking from the physical standpoint) of doing at
least a portion of her own housework, suffers from
physical inactivity, unless she manages to obtain the
necessary amount of exercise in outdoor sports, walks,

or occupations. I am not now speaking of overwork in

household duties — this, alas! has broken down thousands
of women. I am speaking merely of a normal amount
of household work, which, as the best authorities now
hold, affords perhaps the best all-around system of ex-
ercise that a woman can take, for it brings into play
every muscle of her body, and prompts a general phys-
ical development.
But, here, I ask you again to note that in these prim-
itive exercises of the race, as well as in their modern
substitutes, the mind as well as the body was used and
exercised —the co-operation and co-ordination of the
mind and body was secured — the element of mental in-
terest was there. I am not riding a hobby, not pursuing
57
a fad, in thus insisting upon the advantage —nay, the
necessity, —of this mental interest in connection with
physical exercise. Instead, I am stating the results of

the investigation and thought of some of the world's

greatest thinkers on the subject of health and beauty.
So, milady, do not be deluded by "systems" of

physical culture warranted to produce beauty for you,

unless the exercises are such as will gain and hold your
interest. If they do not do this, discard them to the
scrap-basket, and substitute interesting work, tasks re-

quiring attention and appealing to the creative instinct

within you, or else games in which you can take an
interest.

The Ideal System. A combination of interesting

work and interesting play is the ideal system of physical
culture. Blessed is the woman who can combine these
two in the proper proportions, and who will faithfully

adhere to their practice. For she will bring to her

cheeks the bloom of health; to her eyes the sparkle of

life, and to her form the beautiful lines which nature in-

tended to bestow upon her.

Fresh Air and Exercise. Before passing on, I wish
to call your attention to the fact that it is well to com-
bine as much fresh air as possible with your daily ex-
ercise work or games. If you cannot work in the open
air, then at least well air the house in which you are
working. Fresh air is one of Nature's most potent
tonics for the general system, and one of her most effi-

cient beautifiers. The race has become accustomed to

58
fresh air, throughout countless generations, and to-day
the healthiest men and women are those who have the
advantage of fresh air and plenty of it. Get out into
the air as much as possible; and keep your houses well
aired.

I am very glad to note that the fresh air propaganda

is making great headway in this country. The anti-

quated and irrational habit of almost hermetically seal-

ing the houses is rapidly passing away, and the new

generations are insisting upon living closer to nature in

the matter of fresh air. Avoid stuffiness in the house

or room. Throw open the windows and let the light and
air purify the interior of your dwelling houses and offices.

And, get out in the air as much as you can. Get closer

to Nature, and she will reward you by bestowing upon

you the priceless treasures of health and beauty. The
day of the hothouse beauty is passing. And, as for the

"preserve-jar" woman —that poor deluded product of an

almost hermetically sealed existence — she impos- well, is

sible under the present-day standards of beauty. Like

other preserve-jar articles, she is placed upon the shelf.

The Vital Trio. Remember now this trio: (1) Ex-

ercise; (2) Mental Interest; and (3) Fresh Air. Think
of them, always, as belonging to each other, and en-
deavor to combine them whenever possible.
Dancing. Before passing on, I wish to say that I

consider rational dancing a splendid form of exercise

for any woman, young or old, thin or stout. By rational
dancing, I mean dancing in moderation and along the
59
 lines of aesthetic movements, avoiding the fantastic
varieties of the dance which seem to be afflicting society

at this time. Oh, no, I'm not exactly a prude —but

there is a limit.
Dancing not only tends to exercise many of the

muscles of the body; to increase the lung power by use;

and to generally stimulate the circulation and nerve
\1 power; but tendency to encourage and
it also has a

develop grace of motion and poise, and to improve the

carriage — all of which are well worth while to the beauty-
seeker.

Delsarte Exercises. I am also in favor of the Delsarte

System of exercise and movements for similar reasons.

I believe them to contain much of great value in the

direction of rational exercise, besides adding the element

of interest and pleasure. Moreover, they certainly tend

toward grace, poise, and carriage. I have known Del-
sarte Movements in connection with correct breathing

to reduce many cases of over-fatness, and also to aid in

breaking up stubborn cases of constipation. I have

also known of cases of female weaknesses to be greatly im-

proved by the same methods. There are published a

number of inexpensive books on the Delsarte Move-
ments. Ask your bookseller about them. But don't buy
the books if you merely want good exercises, for I have
given you quite a number —and of the very best —in
this little book you are now reading. But Delsarte is

more than mere exercise — it contains the secret of Grace

and Poise, and is the twin sister to dancing. I merely
60
mention this to remind you that there is such a thing
in the world in case you are interested in this special
phase of the subject.
General Directions for Calisthenic Exercises. In
other chapters of this book, especially in Chapters XIII
and XIV, respectively, I give a number of important
calisthenic exercises designed to reduce superfluous
flesh on parts of the body, and to build up solid flesh

when same is needed. I think it well to give at this

place a few general directions regarding the taking of
these exercises:
I. Exercises taken only "occasionally" do but
little good. The benefit of calisthenic exercises depends
materially upon regularity and systematic performance.
II. Do not get too enthusiastic, and thus overdo the
exercises. Too much is worse than none at all.

III. Do not carry the exercises to the point of ac-

tual fatigue or exhaustion. Let your own feelings be the
judge. From fifteen to thirty minutes at a time is

about the average. About twice a day, preferably

morning and evening, is the best rule.
IV. In exercising for developing flesh and muscle,
slow movements are preferred, as a rule; this is par-
ticularly true in the case of very thin persons. In ex-
ercising for reducing flesh, on the contrary, a smart,
brisk, vigorous movement is best, as by such movements
there is caused a burning-up of surplus fatty matter and
waste tissues of the body.
V. The same exercise which will tend to burn up
61
and dissolve superfluous fat in the over-fat person will

also equally tend to build up sound, strong, firm flesh

and muscle in the over-thin person —the exercise tend-

ing toward the Normal Condition in both cases.
Remember this!

VI. Avoid exercising immediately after eating;

and avoid eating immediately after exercising. Give
Nature a chance to rest and recuperate in either case,

before you heap fresh work upon her.

VII. Early morning, immediately after rising; and

late in the evening, immediately before retiring —these
are the ideal times for calisthenics.

62
 chapter ix.

Breathing and Beauty.

M|p3HERE is a close connection between

breathing and beauty, not only be-
cause there is a close connection be-
tween correct breathing and general
health, but also because correct

i breathing specially stimulates the

ftU£~vj activities of the skin, and also re-

.,.,*,', :.& moves the waste products of the

*W. system; moreover, it tends to pro-

pi duce a general condition of well-
fiWEKLxzJ&Bfi roun(j e(j plumpness (not superfluous
fat), and to develop the chest and bust particularly. So
that the beauty-seeker will find it well worth while to
acquire the art of correct breathing.
Breathing is such a common activity, that the aver-

age person does not pay any attention to it, but takes it

as a matter of course. And yet the average person is

sadly deficient in breathing power and practice, and is

careless regarding the same. Instruction is very much

needed. But, before we proceed to the consideration of
directions regarding proper methods of breathing, let

me give you a brief glimpse of the work actually per-

63
formed by the lungs in the process of breathing, and
what effect it has on the general system.
The Breathing Apparatus. The breathing apparatus
of the human being consists of a pair of lungs, and
the air passages connected therewith. The air is drawn
in through the nasal passages and other air tubes and
enters the lungs, where it is divided and subdivided
into minute particles so that it may penetrate into
the millions of small air cells of the lungs. Now
happens a peculiar thing. The blood, returning
through the veins, heavily laden with waste matter
of the system, and being of a dull, bluish color

because of these impurities, is forced into the lungs, and

is then distributed through millions of tiny hairlikc
blood vessels which the lungs also contain. This blood,
in these tiny channels, then comes in contact with the
tiny air cells of the lungs, filled with the fresh air which
has just been breathed into them. The oxygen con-
tained in the fresh air, coming in contact with the foul

blood contained in the tiny blood vessels, produces a

chemical combustion, the result being that the impu-
rities in the blood are burned up and are transformed into
carbonic acid gas, and then breathed out from the lungs.
In the process, also, the blood takes up a fresh supply of
oxygen, and then returns to the heart in the shape of
rich, red blood which is sent by the heart flowing through
the arteries, building up, reinvigorating, and energizing
the entire system. This wonderful process is performed
every second in the day, for every human being. With-
64
out this process, life would be destroyed in a few mo-
ments, as the system would be poisoned by the failure
of the oxygen, and the accumulation of foul material in

the blood.
Breathing and Pure Blood. You need scarcely be
told that unless the proper amount of air reaches the

lungs, the full performance of its wonderful offices be-

comes impossible, and the blood remains in a poorly

nourished and imperfectly cleansed condition. Poor
blood must mean poor general health, and especially a

poor, muddy complexion, dull eyes, foul breath, etc.

Moreover, unless they are properly employed, the lungs
themselves suffer, and even consumption may result.

Many good authorities hold that if correct habits of

breathing were common, tuberculosis of the lungs would

be an almost unheard-of disease. Moreover, over-fat-
ness, resulting from a lack of proper tissue-oxidation, is

a direct consequence of improper breathing habits.

Nasal vs. Mouth Breathing. One of the first things

to learn in acquiring the habit of correct breathing, is

that of using the nostrils alone in the breathing process,

and in overcoming the common habit of mouth breath-
ing. Nature intends mankind to breathe through the
nostrils; and the habit of mouth breathing is a
pernicious and unnatural one.
The nostrils filter the air, relieving it of dust and
other objectionable matter; this docs not occur if the
breath passes through the mouth. Moreover, the nasal
passages warm the air, while air taken through the
65
mouth may chill the air passages leading to the lungs.
Again, it has been held by good authorities that con-
tagious diseases are often contracted by the germs being
breathed in through the mouth ; nostril breathers run-

ning far less risk. Finally, disuse tends to render the

nostrils inactive and subject to catarrh and other simi-

lar diseases; besides they remain in an uncleansed con-
dition by reason of the failure of the normal passage of

air through them. When I say "nostrils," I mean not

only the opening in the nose, but also the nasal air pas-
sages leading upward and backward in the head, from
these openings. I strongly urge all of my readers to ac-
quire the art of nostril breathing, if they have lost it;

and to beware of mouth breathing, as something not

only inelegant and vulgar, but also a cause of unhealthy
and unbeautiful conditions.
The Three Kinds of Breathing. There are three
kinds of breathing practiced by the human race,

viz.:

(1) Clavicular Breathing. Clavicular or Collar-

bone Breathing, in which the air is taken only into the

upper higher part of the lungs, and which is accompa-
nied by a raising of the shoulders and collar bone, and a
lifting of the ribs. This is a very imperfect form of
breathing, as only a minimum of air is allowed to enter
the lungs. This form of breathing is particularly no-

ticeable among women, and among men of sedentary

habits. The average invalid uses this imperfect form of
breathing.
66
 (2) Intercostal Breathing. Intercostal or Rib
Breathing is better than the form just mentioned,

and yet is far from being complete. In it the

breath is taken into the center of the lungs, the chest
being partially expanded and the ribs being somewhat
raised. This form is quite common, being that used
by the average man or woman.
(3) Abdominal Breathing. Abdominal or Deep
Breathing is used by young children and many
vigorous men, and is favored by many of the best
authorities. In it the diaphragm (the large flat

muscle which lies at the lower part of the chest,

separating it from the abdomen, and acting as a lung-
pump) is pressed downward, pushing the abdomen
downward and outward, and filling the lower part
of the lungs.
Full Breathing. The best form of breathing, and all-
round form, is that known as "Full Breathing," which
combines all the processes of the three forms of breath-
ing above mentioned. The following exercise describes
the process: (1) Stand or sit erect, in a natural posi-
tion. (2) Breathe naturally and slowly into the lower
part of the lungs, by pushing the diaphragm downward
(the abdomen being forced downward and outward, of
course). (3) Then fill the middle part of the lungs, by
continuing the breath, and pushing out the lower ribs,

the breast bone, and chest. (4) Then fill the upper
chambers of the lungs, finishing the breath, and at the
same time lifting the upper ribs, shoulders, and collar

67
bone, and drawing in the abdomen a little. A little

practice will render this exercise easy.

How to Breathe. Practice full breathing until the
three combined motions follow one after the other, con-
tinuously and not in a broken series of three. Practice,

practice, practice this full breathing, for it will well repay

you for your trouble. Take a few deep, full breaths in the
morning when you arise, letting the air be as fresh and
pure as possible. Take a few more several times during

the day. If you feel chilly, take a few full breaths and
note how the circulation is stimulated, and how com-
fortable you feel afterwards. This is a very fine general
exercise for invigorating the system, and also one of the
best special exercises for chest and bust development.
Breathing-in Exercising. You will find it interesting

and beneficial to combine full breathing with many of

the exercises given in other chapters of this book. In

such cases, you may inhale during the "lifting up"
motions, and exhale during the "letting go" or "bear-
ing down" movements. Do not hold the breath during

exercises, however. A better way, perhaps, is to let the

breathing adjust itself, naturally and instinctively, to

the motions of the calisthenic exercises; the only thing

to be remembered being to breathe fully, and not par-
tially.

Breathing Exercises. Many breathing exercises

have been given by the many writers on the subject,

and quite a number of these exercises are very good in-

deed, and repay one for following them. I do not give

68
 —

them here, however, for the very good reason that I

have given the muscular movements, which accompany

many of the best breathing exercises, in the portions of

this book devoted to reduction or development of the

various parts of the body. I do not wish to repeat them
here, simply adding the breathing instructions to each

I prefer to allow you to make the combination, which

you are as well able to do as are many of the writers of

the various books and articles on the subject. For that

matter, however, you will find that the average exercise,
given by me in this book, if performed with spirit, will

necessitate a natural, normal full breathing, without any

special instructions on that phase of the subject.

A Good Suggestion. At this point, however, I wish

to recommend to your attention two books written by

Elizabeth Towne, published by the Elizabeth Towne
Company, Holyoke, Mass., which contain a number of
very important and useful breathing exercises, designed
for special requirements of the individual. Those who
are interested in this subject of breathing, and who .wish
to go further into it, are respectfully referred to these two
books, the names of which are (1) " Practical Methods

for Self-Development, Spiritual, Mental, Physical"; and

(2) "Just How to Wake the Solar Plexus," respectively.
Now, do not forget the importance of this subject of
correct breathing. Combine it with any or all of the
forms of exercises or treatments given in this book, and
you will give additional virtue to them, and reap
additional benefits therefrom.
 chapter x.

Rest and Sleep.

SHERE is an important connection

between sleep and rest on the one
hand, and health and beauty on the
other. Sleep and rest are required
by nature as a period of recupera-

tion and building up of material

used up during the hours of waking
activity. It is the time in which
nature strengthens and fortifies the
nervous system against the hours of
itfe&^sc^es&bV use and waste. Animals, children,
and the primitive races of mankind, sleep as nature

intended, but "civilization" has done much to destroy

the old natural habits, and to replace them with others

more or less injurious. Among the worst of these
changes effected by modern life, those relating to the
times of sleep and rest are especially regrettable.

For instance, the best hours for sleep are those between
sunset and midnight, which are so often dissipated in
exciting social pleasures; likewise, the best hours for

work are the first few after sunrise, which man now
spends in bed. However, there is no use railing against

70
these things; let us rather make the best of things as
they are.
Hours of Sleep. It is difficult to state dogmatically

the precise hours of sleep required by any special

individual. General rules may be laid down, but the

individual must be governed largely by his tempera-

ment, occupation, and other individual peculiarities.

Young children require nine to twelve hours' sleep, and

even adults suffering from a weakened or depleted
nervous system need almost or quite as much sleep as

does the child. Some adults manage to get along

with a very few hours of sleep, but it is dangerous for
the average individual to follow rules laid down by
these exceptional persons. As a rule, about eight hours'
sleep is required by the average man or woman, in

order to maintain the balance of the nervous system.

One must not burn one's candle at both ends, in the
matter of the dissipation of nervous energy. The loss

of sleep soon tells on the general health, and even

before that time it manifests signs on the countenance,
in the direction of giving a haggard appearance, causing
wrinkles and drawn lines on the face, besides giving to

the eyes a dull appearance.

At the same time, one should not argue from the
above that if a little sleep is a good thing, much sleep

is better, and very much sleep is still better. Over

eight hours' sleep is too much for the average person,

unless when suffering from nervous troubles, etc. Too

much sleep tends to render one sluggish, heavy, and
71
dull, physically and mentally. Many persons who
think they are suffering from insufficient sleep, and
who go about complaining that they can scarcely keep
their eyes open, are really suffering from a constipated
colon, a torpid liver, disordered digestion, and lack of
proper exercise. A change in their habits of life, as

indicated in the foregoing chapters of this book, will

soon re-establish normal conditions and cause that tired
feeling and the heavy eyelids to disappear.
Rules of Sleeping. The rules regarding the proper

conditions of sleeping are few and simple. Here they

are in a few lines: (1) See that your room is well

ventilated, but arrange your bed so that you will not

be in a direct draft. (2) Have sufficient bed-clothing

to keep you comfortable, but avoid feather beds and

extra heavy bed-clothing, both of which belong to the
dark ages. Far better a hot water bottle than too
heavy covers. (3) Never wear at night any garments
that you have worn during the day, but be sure to
always have clean, fresh, loose nightrobes for the sleep-

ing hours. This last rule will seem superfluous to the

majority of my readers, but there are many who
require it, strange as itmay appear in this age. (4)

Avoid the use of too many pillows; one small one is

better than many; and place the pillow under your

head, and not under the shoulders as so many do.

(5) Sleep alone, if possible; if not possible to do so,

try to have a bed of extra width. (6) Air the body

before donning the nightdress, and, if convenient and
72
 possible, give the body a "dry rub" with your bath
mits, or with your bare hands for that matter. This
plan will often induce sleep. (7) And, now, last and
the most important of all: Leaen to sleep like a
child. You naturally ask, ''How does a child sleep?"
or "How is this possible?" Both of which questions
I will answer. I ask your careful attention to this
answer, for it embodies the essence of true sleeping and
resting — it is a royal secret, which may be worth a
great deal to you in life, for it has meant a great deal
to many others who have learned the lesson.

Sleep Like a Child. The secret of the natural sleep

of the child, which the adult so often envies, may be
summed up in one word, namely: Relaxation! Did
you ever look at the bed in which a child has slept? If

so, you will have noticed that, notwithstanding the

comparatively light weight of the child, it will have

made a much deeper impression in the bed than is the
case with even heavy adults. The difference is caused

by the fact that the child relaxes completely, while the

average adult does not even known how to relax, much

less does he habitually practice it. The adult who
Biasti rs the art of relaxation will be able to enjoy the
sleep of the child. Verily, in this as in other things,

one must become as a little child in order to attain.

Let us take a little lesson in relaxation.

Relaxation. In the first place, "relaxation" means

"loosening, slackening," or "relieving the tension."
And that is just what happens when we relax. We
73
might express the idea still more simply by thinking of

relaxation as "Letting go." There is mental relaxa-

tion, and physical relaxation, and the child practices

both, naturally and instinctively.

Mental Relaxation. Mental relaxation, or "letting

go," means that one deliberately refuses to "think

about things," and simply lets his mind "loaf, and
invite the soul." The bed is no place in which to
deliberate over important matters, or to solve trouble-
some questions. In the first place, no clear thinking is

ever done under such circumstances, notwithstanding

that it may seem as if the brain is working clearly. In
the second place, it unfits one for clear thinking' the
next day, when the real work of thinking is to be done.
It requires a little knack to acquire this trick of mental
relaxation, but once mastered it remains mastered.

The idea, carried in one's mind at such times, of

"Let go!" will give the mind the right suggestion, and
will help mightily. Think how the little child "lets
go" of thought when it goes to bed, and endeavor to
bring about in yourself the same state of mind as that
of the child. Picture the little child in bed, and the
expression of its little face, and let yourself easily act

out the expression and attitude, and in short, enter into

the spirit of the child in such a condition. If you will

do so, you will find yourself sinking into a delicious

state of lazy, relaxed drowsiness, and the first thing you
will know you will know nothing, for you will have
fallen asleep.

74
 Physical Relaxation. The practice of physical
relaxation will help you to relax mentally, in addition

to being a valuable acquirement in itself. The little

child relaxes naturally, while you have probably lost

the art, and must learn all over again. Well, here's for
the lesson:

(1) Sit down, and hold your hand in front of you,

about a foot or so above your lap. Then, relax the
tension which holds your hand there, "let go" your
hand, and allow it to drop limply to your lap. Sounds
simple, doesn't it? but yet only a few persons can per-
form the experiment properly at the first attempt.
The hand must become as "limp as a rag," and drop as
heavily as if it had been detached from the body. You
will find a natural resistance to this "letting go" on
the part of the hand, and you will have to repeat the
trial several times before you succeed. Practice it,

however, until you have perfectly mastered it, for it

will give you the key to all that follows.

(2) Hold your arm straight out from your body,

and then "let go," and let it become limp and drop to
your side as if it were lifeless. Then repeat the process
with the other arm. Then with both arms together.

(3) Lying down, try "letting go" your foot,

and then your entire leg; then both legs, etc., in

the same general manner as in the hand and arm

experiment.
(4) Sitting upright, "let go" the muscles of the
neck, and let the head drop limply forward. Then,
75
bending a little backward, let the head droop back-
ward, limply.
(5) The above experiments may be extended in

sitting, standing, or lying down, until you have brought

the entire body under your control, and can cause any
part, or the entire body for that matter, to "let go" at
will. Then you will have begun to learn the art of
relaxation. Did you ever see a child, or an intoxicated
person, fall "all in a heap" by means of general relaxa-
tion, voluntarily or involuntarily? Try to attain the
same degree of relaxation, but always under control of

your will, of course.

Relaxation in Bed. In relaxing in bed, at night, as

a means of promoting a childlike sleep, first picture the
child as it appears after it has relaxed. Carry this

thought-picture in your mind, for it will aid you in

relaxing your own body. Then lie flat on the back,

and "let go" generally, until you feel limp as a dish
rag, and are conscious that you are resting on the bed
as "heavy as lead," for that is the way the child lies,

heavy and limp all over. The idea of relaxation may

be illustrated by the fact that, if you have reached the
right state of relaxation, you may lift one of your arms,
and then allow it to fall limply and heavily at your
side; then you may do the same with both arms; then
with one leg after the other; then with the trunk; then
with the head and neck; and, finally, you will realize

that your entire body is lying perfectly relaxed and

limp, just as does the body of the child at rest and
76
asleep. You may turn from side to side, allowing
yourself to drop limp and relaxed in the next position.

Keep the idea of the sleeping child, and of the idea

"let go," in your mind, and endeavor to have your body
fall into the spirit of the thing.
Suggestions regarding Relaxation. Relaxation may
be acquired somewhat more easily, at first, if you have
a friend to assist you in the practices above given;

that is, by having the friend lift your arm from your
side, in which case, if you have really relaxed it, it will

drop limply when she releases it. The friend may try
lifting your limbs, head, etc., until you are sure that
you have acquired the perfect art of relaxation. But
practice is required, and it is not as easy as it sounds.
The muscles are rebellious, and slow to respond to a
complete "let go" at first, but they will soon gain
confidence in your will, and will begin to respond
properly.

When you have acquired the complete art of perfect

relaxation, you will not only be able to sleep perfectly,
but will also be able to rest in a few minutes' time, by
taking a little general "letting go," which will surprise
you by its rapid and efficient results. The Orientals
have long been familiar with the value of relaxation
and repose, and employ it far more frequently than do
we of the Western world with our nervous, tense
manners of living and carriage. If properly mastered
and applied, this little lesson will prove of the greatest

value to you in many ways.

77
 CHAPTER XI.

AlNTI-FAT AND AlNTI-LEAIN.

1S3HE aim of every woman, of course, is

to conform to the normal propor-

tions of the ideal woman's body, as

determined by observations arising

from the consideration of many

thousands of women. Of course,

fashions change in this matter, and

to-day a slender, willowy form may

be favored; while yesterday, and,
probably, again to-morrow, the
more plump form may win approval.
But, change as fashion may, there is always to be found
a limit beyond which one is considered "fat," and
another below which one is considered "scrawny" or
"skinny," by their most intimate friends and their
enemies, while other observers may use other and milder
terms to designate a similar impression. The woman
who reluctantly admits that she is "growing rather
fleshy," as well as the one who as reluctantly admits
that she is "rather too slender," begins to inquire
anxiously for means whereby she may change her lines

into a closer conformity with the average normal figure.

She meets with much difficulty in her search, and

78
 :

usually spends much money and time, generally to

meet with disappointment in the end. In this chapter,
it is my purpose to present to my suffering sisters the
essence of the best teaching and treatment along these
lines.

Superfluous Fat. A certain amount of fatty tissue

is, of course, normal and desirable. But when the
deposits of fat increase too rapidly, the result is dis-

agreeable, unpleasant, and undesirable, from the

standpoint of health, convenience, or beauty. The
tendency to develop too much fleshy tissue is often

hereditary, developing in a woman after she has

reached the age of thirty-five years, or thereabout.
But, too often, it arises from improper diet, overeating,

lack of sufficient and proper exercise, clogged colon,

improper elimination, etc.

Anti-Fat Systems. Many and varied have been the

remedies prescribed for reducing excessive fatty tissue;
many the "systems" devised, published, or otherwise
sold to the public for the purpose; all of which have
more or less merit, but few of which have proved wholly
satisfactory to those who followed them. In order
that you may get a general idea of the favored treat-
ments, and so extract their essence, so to speak, let me
here give you a brief synopsis of the more celebrated
systems
The Banting System. This system originated with
Prof. William Banting, of London, England, a number
of years ago. The system consisted in the main of the

79
reduction of foods and drinks, and the total elimination
of the fats and carbohydrates (sugars and starches) in

the food. In place of the fats, sugars, and starches,

Banting recommended lean meats, fish, fruits, etc., in

moderate proportions; the reduction of liquids; and

the daily use of an acid drink. His theory was that by
reducing the fat-making foods below the actual demands
of the system, nature would consume the stored up
fatty tissue to make up the shortage. He condemned,
except in the most limited quantities, the use of pota-
toes, bread, rice, sago, tapioca, corn meal, sweet fruits,

sweet vegetables (such as carrots, turnips, parsnips,

beets, etc.), fat, butter, cream, sweet wines, and cakes
and pastry. He urged the use, in moderate quantities,
of lean meats, lean fowl, fish, eggs, green vegetables,

succulent fruits, etc., and brown bread instead of

white.
Ebstein's Method. In this formerly very popular
method, the general features of Banting were sup-
ported, with the exception that this method permitted
the use of fats, but entirely eliminated the sugars and
starches (carbohydrates).
Oertel's Method. This well-supported method was
designed principally for persons suffering with weak
hearts, etc., and dwelt (1) principally upon the reduc-
tion of drinks, the perspiration being increased by hot
baths and similar methods; (2) restricting the diet

almost entirely to proteids (meats, etc.), and (3) in-

creased exercise, particularly slow walks uphill, etc.

80
 The Schweninger System. This system, very popular
in Germany, in which place and elsewhere it has had
many distinguished patients, gives more attention to
individual requirements, and dwells less in generalities.

Its discoverer regarded excessive fat as arising from

abnormal habits of living, and his first step was to
observe the personal habits of the patient very closely,
and then to endeavor to correct the abnormal habits of
living. For instance, he found that very often, espe-

cially in very active stout persons, the whole trouble

arose from improper diet; in which case, he would
point out a proper dietary, and discharge the patient.
Again, in many cases of indolent, sluggish, slow-moving
stout persons, the food was all right and all that was
needed was exercise, which latter he promptly pre-
scribed, very often with great success. In a third
class, he found that both diet and exercise needed
regulation, and he acted accordingly. This last class
was found to be much larger than either of the first

two. Some of the best American systems are based

largely upon this last system, and follow the general
plan of the discoverer thereof.
The Cathett System. This system is named after its

srer, Dr. Wm. T. Cathell, an eminent physician

of Baltimore, Md., who announced the same several
years ago, since which time it has found great favor in
many quarters. It is based upon the fundamental
principle that there exists a natural and well-marked
antagonism between Kiss'mgen and Vichy waters on
81
the one hand, and adipose tissue on the other. He
prescribes the alternated taking of these two mineral
waters, as a wonderfully efficacious cure for over-fat-
ness. I shall go into detail regarding the Cathell
system, a little later on in this chapter, for I advocate

its use in connection with other methods which I shall

mention in a moment.
Fantastic Remedies. There have been many fan-
tastic remedies advocated for the purpose of reducing
fatty tissue, the majority of which are worthless, and
many of which are positively harmful. Dr. Cathell
says on this score: "There are many well-known
agents that more or less effectually reduce surplus fat,

and also counteract its return. Among these are Iodine,

Bromine, Mercury, Lead, Arsenic, Liquor Potassium,

Lemon Juice, Sour Wines, Vinegar, Purgatives, Sweat-
ing, Semi-Starvation, Baths of various kinds, Smoking
and Chewing, Fish Diet, Bladder Wrack, Phytolacca,
Clulf Weed, and various quack nostrums, each of which
has more or less reputation for diminishing weight.
Some of these, when taken sparingly or for a brief
while, have a proper place and a useful power, but,
unfortunately, when used in quantities sufficiently

strong and long enough continued to destroy any

considerable quantity of fatty tissue, they likewise
injure other structures; they are naturally dangerous

to health. . . . It is also well known that while

affecting the fat many of these articles also act as
slow poisons and damage or ruin the alimentary
82
mucous membranes and the functions of digestion, and
thus cause malassimilation, or malnutrition, with
repugnance to food. These, therefore, are all doubly
injurious, and if used too heroically, or continued
beyond a certain period, anaemia, general debility,

marasmus, consumption, or other fatal affections may

be induced."
Difficulties of the Systems. Dr. Cathell also makes
the following striking comment: "None but an idiot,

however fat, wishes to endanger his health by unwise

efforts to reduce it; and many overweighted persons,

anxious to throw off their fleshy burden, and aware of

the danger of using anti-fat drugs, determinately avoid
them, and resort to pedestrianism, bicycling, gym-
nastics, rowing, massage, electricity, restricted sleep,
thyroid extract, skimmed milk, and other popular
means; while a few begin a regular dietary system;
Banting's, Oertel's, Ebstein's, Bruen's, or others, which
all aim to limit the supply of the elements that form
fat, and to increase its reabsorption; and I am glad to
say, to the honor of their founders, that every dictarj'

system with which I am acquainted seems to be based

on rational principles. But ball-and-chain rules, and
ironclad regulations, requiring discomfort, long-suffer-
ing, semi-starvation, abstemious dieting, etc., no
difference by whom recommended, are rarely per-

severed with to a successful degree by persons with

simple over-fatness, and we rarely meet any one
wreathed in fat who has not begun on one or another or

83
 —

several different plans, and after a while become either

careless or disgusted, and quit!"
In the next following chapter, I shall present to

your consideration a "Common-Sense Method of

Fat-Reduction," which I think will please you, after
you have read the foregoing, and know the difficulties

in the way.
Excessive Thinness. Leanness as well as fatness, in
excess, is more or less abnormal. The former, like the
latter, may arise from hereditary causes, or may, on
the contrary, come from a too active, too nervous
temperament; improper diet; impacted colon; im-
proper feeding; failure to properly masticate the food,
insufficient fluids, etc. The remedy, naturally, is rest

and sleep to correct these abnormal conditions.

How to " Take on Flesh." In other chapters of this
book, I have pointed out the way of the proper cleans-
ing of the colon; the proper mastication of food; the
proper amount of fluids; proper bathing; proper
breathing; and proper exercises; all of which are
designed to remove abnormal conditions, and to cause
one to "take on flesh," if she lacks same. A normal
condition of general health, arising from observance of
the things I have pointed out in these other chapters,
will almost surely result in the increase of flesh and
weight to the woman who follows these directions.
The "Dried-apple State." In this connection, I wish
again to impress upon my lean sisters the importance
of overcoming the "dried-apple" aspect resulting from
84
a failure to take sufficient fluids into the system. The
average "thin" person will be found to be at fault in
this respect. Accordingly, a correction of this bad
habit will bring increased flesh and weight to her,
if she be lacking in same. I also wish to call attention
to the fact that proper exercise will increase the size

of the various parts of the body —and of the entire

body as well —when one is under size and under

weight.
Diet for Over-Thinness. Regarding the question
of diet for underweight persons, or those of a thin,
lean, scrawny figure, I would say simply this —be sure
to read this carefully, my thin sisters: Read carefully

the remarks upon the diet mentioned in connection with

over-fat persons, and then REVERSE THE DIREC-
TIONS. This is to say: Avoid the food I recommend
to fat folks; and partake liberally of the food I prohibit
to fat folks. Now you have it in a few words —in
a nutshell, so to speak. Profit by it. Read carefully

what I have to say on the subject of diet, etc., to fat

folks, in this and the succeeding chapters— and then

reverse the directions. This will give you fat-forming

foods, instead of lean-making foods. The things
that make the fat person fat, will make the lean
person fatter. The things that will make the fat

person lean, will make the lean person still leaner.

Therefore, O my lean sisters, look upon the fat one

and govern yourselves accordingly, in the matter of
diet.

85
 But let this reversing be confined to the question
of diet, and be sure to let it go no farther. For,
remember always, that in the matter of the clean colon,

baths, exercise, breathing, mastication, and the rest —

that which brings down the fat woman to normal, will
also bring up the thin woman to normal.
With these two rules I shall take leave of you for

the present, my thin sister, but in parting with you

I wish to leave behind a word of hope, cheer, and
encouragement, for in the pages of this book, you
will surely find that which you need; that which
will fill you out to a desirable degree of plumpness,

roundness, and general comeliness. And, finally,

don't forget the two rules given you just above, but fix

them firmly in your mind, and you will call me blessed

in the years to come when you are plump and round,
rosy and radiant!

86
 chapter xii.

Common-sense Method of Fat-

reduction.

li^iSEIl&I HE main principle underlying the

j^|j common-sense method of the reduc-

j^ tion of superfluous fatty tissue is

that of restoring normal conditions;

BjS my contention being that surperfm-

w^^^|^/l ous fat is merely a symptom and a

rS^IMfi il^-v! result of certain abnormal conditions.

," ). / I «
| For this reason, a certain part of my
%i;;.'
:
-'/' system will be found to be practi-
. j cally identical with that advocated
1 j
by me for the "putting on" of flesh,

in the case of women under weight and lacking in

plumpness. I have explained the philosophy of this,

in the preceding chapter. Correct habits of living will

result in bringing and keeping the person in a normal
condition. Consequently, the substitution of normal
conditions in the place of the abnormal ones will (1)
bring down the over-fat person to normal; and (2)

bring up the under-fat person to normal.

Only in the matter of the choice of foods is there

found to be an apparent exception to the above-stated

rule I believe, always, in a general, well-balanced diet.

87
But, as there exists in some persons a predisposition
toward the rapid storing of fatty tissue; and in others a

predisposition toward a lack of normal storing of such

tissue; therefore, I believe it to be rational and scientific

to supply the body in each case with the food which is

indicated by the predisposition, that is to say, to give

the under-fat person an extra supply of the foods cal-

culated to form fat; and to withhold from the over-fat
person the same food, as the same is not needed in her
case. But, I hope never to become a "food-crank" or
fanatic on the subject of diet, in my consideration of the
subjects of over-fat and under-fat. With this under-

standing, let us now proceed to the consideration of

"The Common-Sense Method of Fat-Reduction."

A Clean Colon. In Chapter II of this book, I have

pointed out the fact that constipation, resulting from an
impacted colon, is the root of much physical evil. In
Chapter III, I have shown you how to uproot this source
of evil. The information and advice contained in the
two chapters just referred to are especially applicable to

cases of over-fat. This because unless there be perfect

elimination, there is apt to be an abnormal storing-up
of waste material, and excess reserve of fatty tissue.
The poison flowing from an impacted colon seems to par-
tially paralyze the organs of elimination, and the result
is often a growing habit of superfluous fat. The best

authorities hold that one of the first things that the over-fat

person should do is to secure a clean condition of the colon,

and then to keep up that condition.

 Water Drinking. In Chapter IV of this book, I
have called your attention to the matter of the impor-
tance of drinking enough water each day to keep the
processes of elimination free and natural. In this con-
nection I wish to puncture a prevalent error existing in
the minds of many persons, on the subject of water and
over-fat. Because it is beginning to be recognized that
the average thin person does not drink sufficient water,
many have jumped to the conclusion that the over-fat
person drinks too much water, and consequently many
have advised the over-fat person to lessen her daily
fluid supply.

The last-mentioned notion is a mistake. The over-

fat person especially requires a sufficient supply of fluids

to carry off the waste matter of the system and to wash
away the accumulating debris. The trouble is this:

with an imperfectly working colon, the waste matter of

the over-fat person is not carried off properly, and there-
fore the water may have, in some cases, an over-plump-
ing effect. But with the colon kept clear, a proper amount
of water will tend to carry off the waste, and thus reduce the
weight of the over-fat person, instead of adding to it. More-
over proper amounts of drinking water will tend to keep
the bowels moving naturally and normally, and thus remove
the state of constipation, which is one of the great causes of
over-fatness. For this reason, I earnestly advise the

over-fat woman to partake of the normal amount of

fluids each day and thus bring her system back to

normal conditions and functioning. The normal
89
conditions once secured, the surplus fat begins to
disappear.
The Bath. In Chapters V and VI of this book, I
have pointed the "why" as well as the "how" of the
bath. This information and the accompanying advice
are especially needed by the over-fat woman. If any one
needs to promote free and natural elimination through
the skin, the over-fat woman is that person. The only
way to get rid of over-fat is to eliminate it from the
system, and the skin is one of the channels of elimination.
And the bath clears the pores and stimulates the elimi-

nate ve processes. Therefore, bathing forms a part of the

Common-Sense Method of Fat-Reduction, and must
not be neglected.
One famous fat-reducing system prescribes med-
icated hot baths taken twice a week. The medication
consists of one pound of common Epsom salts to each bath,
the water as hot as the patient can bear it, soaking for
fifteen minutes just before retiring. This bath might
be combined with other treatment.
Exercise. In Chapter VIII of this book, I have
pointed out the important part played by exercise in
the matter of physical beauty and health. And here,

also, the over-fat person is invited to pay strict atten-

tion to what has been said in that chapter, and also in

Chapters XIII and XIV on the subject of exercise.

One of the main causes of over-fat is the lack of proper

exercise. In fact, some of the best authorities hold
that, in many cases, if this defect be remedied, no other
treatment is necessary.
90
 But even in cases where there are other condi-

tions to be remedied, the over-fat person must exercise

in order to get back to normal proportions. In this
book we have given some valuable exercises for the

purpose of reducing superfluous fatty tissue, which we

trust will be used by those who are troubled in this way.

But do not forget the general advice concerning exer-

cise which I have given in Chapter VIII. It need

scarcely be added that the fat-reducing exercises given

in this book form a part (a very important part) in the

Common-Sense Method of Fat-Reduction. Therefore,

read very carefully what I have said on the subject in

the other chapters above referred to.
Breathing. The average over-fat person does not

breathe properly. Therefore I call the attention of such

to Chapter IX of this book, in which the importance of
correct breathing is set forth; and in which full direc-

tions for correct breathing are given. The over-fat per-

son should pay careful attention to this matter of breath-

ing, for it, too, forms an important part of the general
Common-Sense System of Fat-Reduction. In fact, the

best authorities hold that want of lung-expanding

exercise is one of the greatest causes of obesity or over-
fatness — as breathing promotes tissue oxidation.
Food and Diet. And now we come to a portion of

the system in which some very special information and

directions are to be given to the over-fat person, in ad-
dition to what I have said on the general subject of food
and beauty in Chapter VII of this book. Before pro-
91
 —

ceeding with this special advice, I ask that you turn

back to the preceding chapter (Chapter XI) and reread
what I have said there on the subject of the general re-

lation of food to over-fatness. Get firmly fixed in your

minds the general class of food which is calculated

to build up the fatty tissue, before we proceed to

details.

Let me divide up the ordinary articles of food into

two lists, (1) articles allowed in moderation; (2) articles

prohibited, as follows:
Articles Allowed. Lean meat, lean fish, eggs (ex-
cepting when fried), whole-wheat bread, Graham bread,
stale white bread, toast, vegetables (excepting white

potatoes, peas, beans, carrots, beets, turnips, parsnips,

and rice), ripe fruits (particularly those containing

acids), milk (half-skimmed preferably), buttermilk,

fruit juices (especially lemon and orange juice).

Articles Prohibited. All "rich" foods, or "fancy

dishes," especially those containing thick, rich gravies,

sauces, or dressings; white bread, biscuit, crackers

(except Graham); cereals; macaroni, spaghetti, etc.;

salmon, eels, salt fish of all kinds; fat meats (particu-

larly pork, sausage, etc.); veal, liver, fried eggs; white
potatoes, peas, beans, carrots, beets, turnips, parsnips,
and rice; candies, sugar, pies, confections, pastry, cakes,

puddings, syrups, and sweet things generally; fried

things, or articles containing much fat or grease

avoid the "pies and fries," especially —go very slow on

butter and cream.
92
 —

But, finally, do not become a fanatic on the subject

of anti-fat diet. Use common sense. The articles pro-

hibited will not poison you if occasionally touched

they tend to build up fatty tissue, and must be so re-

garded —that's all. It is all a matter of paying the

price of giving up, to gain. You must decide for your-
self the matter of whether it is worth while. I have
pointed out to you the kind of foods which tend to add
fat — it is up to you to use or not use, just as you see fit.

Here is the prohibited list in a few words Fried Things, :

Rich Things, Sweety Things, and Starchy Things

(the latter including white bread, potatoes, cereals,
etc.).

The Cathell System. In the preceding chapter, I

called your attention to the Cathell System, in which

Vichy and Kissingen waters are used in fat reduction.
As promised, I herewith give you a little further infor-
mation regarding the essence of this treatment, and the
way to follow it, if desired. It is highly recommended
by many, and has the approval of many authorities
in medical circles. If in doubt about it, it might be
well to consult your family physician, or medical
friend.

Directions for the Vichy-Kissingen Treatment. Dr.

Cathell recommends the over-fat person to drink a large
glass of Kissingen water twenty or thirty minutes after

each of the three daily meals, on the first day; then a

similar glass of Vichy water after each of the three
meals, on the second day; then, alternate the Kissingen
 "

and Vichy waters, each day for a number of weeks, or

even months, until the effect is most marked.

Important Note: Dr. Cathcll especially emphasizes
the fact that: "It is useless to take either Kissingen or
Vichy alone, as they act only when both are taken
alternately.

Dr. Cathell gives the further directions and advice

in the matter: "While using the Kissingen and Vichy,
the person should, as a necessary guide, keep tally on
his girth and weight, by taking his measures and by
carefully weighing his body in the same clothes, and on
the same accurate scales, every two or three weeks;
and, if he has lost more than a couple of pounds for each
week, take a smaller glass of each at every drink; while if

he has lost less than a couple of pounds for each week,

squeeze a few teaspoonfuls of lemon juice into each glass of

the Kissingen to increase its acidity, and also add one

teaspoonful of the aromatic spirits of ammonia to each
glass of the Vichy to increase its alkalinity. He can
further aid them by using acidulous food and drinks on
the Kissingen clays, and avoiding them with the
Vichy."
Results of the Cathell Treatment. Dr. Cathell says of
this treatment: " If any healthy person, whether male
or female, weighing less than 300 pounds, with simple
uncomplicated over-fatness, wishing to make a fair,

honest and faithful

, trial of my plan to diminish over-fat-

will follow these directions, he will begin to gradu-

ally lose fat, until he comes down to medium weight and
94
stoutness, and be correspondingly relieved of the discom-

forts and the dangers of obesity; after which their use

should be discontinued.' ' And, again: "After drink-
ing these waters, and following these rules for a while,
he will find that he is losing part of his girth and a couple
of pounds of avoirdupois every week, and that the loss

consists entirely of useless fat ; and that his appearance,

activity, and feelings will all be improved —just as if

there exists some natural antagonism between these

waters, thus taken, and adipose tissue ; more especially

that located in the great fat centers already mentioned.

In some cases, however, the direct effect of Kissingen
and Vichy is more perceptible than in others, because
some types of more readily and more
fatness reduce
rapidly than others. The more firm and solid the flesh,
and the longer one has been fat, the more slowly it yields.
Such a one, if quite fat, and belonging to a constitution-
ally fat family, with proportionately small lungs, might
require a persistence with Kissingen and Vichy method-
ically for six months or even longer, unless the ammonia
and lemon juice are added regularly. Ungovernable
appetite, failure to exercise, tippling, etc., may also

retard or prevent success. In some of these stubborn

cases, a considerable decrease of size with but little

lessening of weight has been observed. In addition,

Kissingen and Vichy not only reduce over-fatness, but
also tend to permanently correct the irregular and ex-
eessive fat-making activity on which it depends, with-
out injury to health. The person gradually becomes
thinner, looks healthier, and feels younger and more
active, as his (or her) superabundance disappears. At
the same time, the skin being an elastic and active tissue
contracts correspondingly, leaving neither flabbiness nor
wrinkles, bagginess nor crow's feet, while brain, muscle,

nerve, blood, and glandular nutrition and strength, all

remain normal, proving that this method does not cause

either pathological diminution or morbid shriveling,

from inanition or loss of strength ; or constipation with

cachexy from impaired digestion, as the various anti-fat
blood depuratives and glandular eliminatives are noto-
riously apt to do. To properly appreciate this fact, it

must be remembered that a person in normal flesh has

as much blood, and usually better blood, than a similar

person whose weight has been ever so much increased by

fat; and that Kissingen and Vichy act on the fat and not
on either the blood, the glands, or the bowels."

Note Regarding Kissingen and Vichy. Kissingen and

Vichy waters may be obtained at the soda-fountain of
any druggist; or may be procured in bottles (citrate of
magnesia or ginger-ale bottles may be filled at the
fountain, by the druggist, for that matter) or even
procured in five gallon tanks for home use. Kissingen
and Vichy tablets are also prepared by the large manu-
facturing chemists, and may be procured at any drug
store. The majority of persons prefer taking them in

this form, owing to convenience, cheapness, etc. Wyeth

Company of Philadelphia, and Sharp & Dohme of

Baltimore, are among the principal manufacturers of

96
these tablets. They are, of course, not a patent medicine,

but a regularly prepared, non-secret formula, medicinal

salt preparation, compressed into tablets. Your drug-
gist will inform you regarding their standing and gen-
eral reputation —both that of the tablets and the
manufacturers.

97
 chapter xiii.

Flesh-reducing Exercises.

§§N the preceding chapter, I mentioned

some important and effective calis-

thcnic exercises as calculated to aid

materially in the work of reducing
superfluous flesh. I herewith give

you a number of these exercises espe-

1 cially designed for the reduction of

3 superfluous flesh on the abdomen and
on the thighs, all of which I recom-
mend to you.
'•'•- '•---- ^ "•»
The public has had many " sys-
-
tems" thrust upon it, consisting of directions for cal
isthcnic exercises for the reduction of fatty flesh, which

have been given publicity by means of much advertising.

There have, also, been many books written on this sub-
ject; and many magazine articles published, likewise,

along the same lines. I could easily fill several books,

of the size of this one, with exercises of this kind. But
I shall refrain. I believe that the real essence of the
best exercises may be condensed into a few particularly
effective special exercises which I give you herewith:
Abdominal Exercise I. (1) Lie on your back,
holding your arms stiffly by the sides of the body and
98
raised an inch or so from the floor so as not to touch it.

(2) Then, after making the legs stiff, and holding

them close together, raise them slowly until they assume
a perpendicular position, pointing straight upward;
then lower them slowly. Repeat several times. But
remember, the head is not to be lifted from the floor;

the arms are to be kept in the original position; and do

not bend the knees.
Abdominal Exercise II. (I) Assume the same
position as in Abdominal Exercise I. (2) Then
slowly raise yourself to a sitting position, but without
bending the knees or allowing the feet to rise from the
floor; then sink back to the original position. Repeat
several times.
This exercise will prove somewhat difficult at first,

but a little practice will give efficiency. It may aid

you, at first, to vary the exercise by allowing your palms
to rest on the floor, in the first position; and then using
them to push yourself into the sitting position. After
efficiency is attained in this exercise, the following vari-

ations may be practiced, viz.: (a) fold your arms over

your chest, instead of holding them by your sides, and
rise with them in that position; or (b) clasp your hands
under your neck, behind the head, and rise with them
in that position; or (c) extend the arms straight out,

over the head, so that the back of the hands rest upon
the floor; then rise with them in that position. An-
other interesting variation (d) is to finish the rising by
reaching out and touching the toes with the tips of the
99
fingers. (Also see Abdominal Exercise X for an inter-

esting combination.)
Caution. This exercise will probably cause some
fatigue and slight soreness to the muscles of the abdomen,

at first. Therefore do not overdo it at the beginning.

But this will not hurt you, and is merely an indication
that work is being well done. The soreness will soon
wear off and disappear. This exercise is considered
the most effective one known to physical culturists,
for the purpose of reducing a fatty abdomen.
Abdominal Exercise III. (1) Lie flat on your
back, arms extended by the sides. (2) Slowly raise
up both legs as far as they will go, first bending the knees,

however. (3) Press the thighs firmly against the

abdomen, and hold the position for a few seconds; then
extend and lower the legs slowly to the first position.

Repeat several times.

Abdominal Exercise IV. (1) Stand erect. (2) Lift

your right knee, and clasping it with your hands pull

it up as high as you can, against your abdomen; hold in

that position a few seconds, and then resume first

position. (3) Then follow the same motions with

your left knee. Repeat several times with each knee,
alternating.

Abdominal Exercise V. (1) Lie flat on your stom-

ach, hands extended by the sides. (2) Resting the
weight on the abdomen, raise up the head and chest as
far as possible without undue strain; then lower to
original position. Repeat several times.
100
 Abdominal Exercise VI. (1) Lie flat on your
stomach, as in preceding exercise, keeping the chin
touching the floor. (2) Then, resting the weight on
the abdomen, keeping the legs stiffly extended, raise
the heels up as far as possible without undue strain.

(3) Then lower to original position. Repeat several

times.

Abdominal Exercise VII. (1) Lie flat on the

stomach, but with arms extended straight ahead, on
a line with the body. (2) Then lift the head and chest
upward, as far as possible without undue effort; and
at the same time keeping the legs stiffly extended, raise

the heels up as far as possible without undue effort;

hold position for a moment, and then lower to original

position. Repeat several times. This exercise is seen
to be a combination of the two preceding ones, with a
slight variation in the position of the arms. The three
exercises may be used as a series, with excellent results.

Abdominal Exercise VIII. (1) Stand erect, heels

together with arms extended straight up over the head,

in a line with the body, palms to the front. (2) Then,
keeping the arms extended in the same manner, bend
the body backward at the waist, the abdomen protrud-
ing, the body assuming a bow-like position, with the

arms well extended backward over the head. Avoid

undue effort. (3) Resume the first position. Repeat
several times.

Abdominal Exercise IX. Stand erect, with heels

together (as in last exercise), with arms extended
101
straight up over the head, in a line with the body,
palms to the front. (2) Then, bend forward, from the
waist, keeping the legs stiff and straight without bending

the knees, and try to touch the ground immediately in

front of the toes; then rise to first position. Repeat
several times.
This exercise will probably prove most difficult at

first, and it is almost impossible for the untrained

person to touch the ground without bending the knees,
at first trial. But you will be surprised at the gradual
increase in your ability and flexibility; for after a few
days' practice you will be able to touch your finger tips
easily. Some find it possible, after considerable prac-

tice, even to place the palm of the hand flat upon the
ground, without bending the knees. A variation of
this exercise may be had, by standing "astride," the
feet spread out a little over two feet apart (instead of
the heels together), and then bending over, with knees
unbent and legs straight, first touching the toes of the

right foot and then the toes of the left, with the tips of
the fingers of both hands —the two hands being held
closely together.

Abdominal Exercise X. (1) Lie on your back on

the floor, with legs extended straight in front of you,
legs stiff, and heels well together with arms down and
hands touching the floor. (2) Then, resting on the
palms of the hands, and throwing your weight upon
them, raise yourself up into a slanting position, heels
on the floor, palms on the floor, legs and arms straight
102
and stiff, and head inclining forward from the slanting
position.

Then lower self to original position, and repeat

several times. This exercise may be used as a variation
finish for Abdominal Exercise II and the two will form
an interesting and effective combination exercise.
An Effective System. I cannot resist the temptation
to call the attention of my readers to the fact that the
above series of ten Abdominal Exercises constitutes a
wonderfully effective system of reducing the superfluous
fat which is apt to form on the abdominal region; and
to generally strengthen and render firm the abdominal
muscles. This series gives the essence of the best meth-
ods of the most skilled physical culturists and specialists
in this particular branch of physical training, and is the
real working principle of many high-priced courses of
abdominal reduction, the simplicity of the principles
being disguised, in many cases, by fantastic variations
and flowery wording. It will be your own fault, milady
who wishes to reduce her abdominal dimensions, if you
do not accomplish your wishes with this system. But
remember, you must pay the price of perseverance and
persistence.

Hip and Thigh Reducing Exercises. The following

exercises are highly recommended for the purpose of
reducing the fatty accumulations around the hips and
thighs, which are so undesirable to the woman who seeks
B syiumel rical form. Like the foregoing, they are very
Simple and very effective, and require persistency and
103
perseverance —but they will reward you for your pains,
and the tape measure will offer up tribute to the method,
if properly applied and persistently continued.
Hip-Reducing Exercises Previously Stated. Under
the heading of Abdominal Exercises, I have already
given you several exercises equally adapted to reducing
fat hips. In fact, these exercises combine the two
features of fat reducing, abdominal and hip, in about
an equal measure, and should be used for both. I

refer to the abdominal exercises in which the legs are

actively used, as for instance Abdominal Exercises Nos.

I, III, IV, VI, VIII, IX, respectively. The following
additional exercises are equally effective:
Hip Exercise I. (1) Stand erect, hands clasped
around waist-band on either side. (2) Slowly sink
into a position such as you would assume if you were
about to seat yourself on a low stool (only the stool is

not there, in this case), letting the knees separate and

spread out, but keeping the feet firmly on the ground (and
touching each other), with the back straight and head
erect. (3) Raise yourself up to your first position.

Repeat several times.

Hip Exercise II. (1) Stand erect, with hands
clasped at waist, as in preceding exercise. (2) Slowly
sink down to a sitting posture, as in the preceding
exercise, but with this difference: (a) lift your heels from
the ground, and rest your weight upon the balls of your
feet; also (b) instead of sitting on an imaginary stool,

let your seat sink so as to rest on your heels, which you

104
will find possible as this exercise allows you to sink
much lower than did the preceding one. (3) Resume
first position. Repeat several times.
Hip Exercise III. (1) Stand erect, hands clasped
at waist, as in the preceding two exercises, but with
your feet about a foot or foot-and-a-half apart, heels on
ground. (2) Slowly sink into a "squat," such as you
were familiar with in childhood days. (3) Hold the
position a few seconds, and then resume first position.

Repeat several times.

Extra Suggestion. If you are sufficiently strenuous

to try it, you may increase the efficacy of the above

exercises by learning to "hop" a few inches forward
(while in the sitting position) in the above exercises;

then repeat the hop, and then again, until you can hop
over the length of your room. You may have some
little trouble in keeping your balance at first, but a
little practice will enable you to master it. This extra
strenuous addition to the hip exercises will make your
thighs quite tired at first, and will cause you to pant
for breath if you keep it up for longer than a few hops;
but it will do the work, and you will soon get used to it.

Try it, in moderation.

High Kicking Exercise. The good old-time exercise

of "high kicking" is an excellent one for the hips, and
in addition will give you a good general exercise. If

you do Dot care to "go the liin.it" in the direction of

high kicking, you may have a very excellent substitute

in what is known as " hand-kicking" in the gymnasiums.

105
Hand-kicking consists of (1) standing on the left foot,

with the right arm extended straight in front of the

body, right out from the shoulder, palm downward.

(2) Then, raising the right foot, kick the palm of your
hand, without lowering the hand. You may have a
little difficulty at first, but you will soon be able to
reach the hand, and after a few days' trial will be able
to raise the hand still higher, and succeed. If at first

you do not succeed, why, just lower the hand a little,

and then keep on trying until you are able to reach it.

Then try the exercise with the left foot and hand.
Repeat several times, alternating between right and
left.

The above hip exercises will be found somewhat

tiring at first, and the muscles of the thigh may be sore
for a day or so after the first attempt. But that is a
good sign, so do not get discouraged, but persist.

Massage. Many have used massage treatments in

the reduction of superfluous flesh on the abdomen, hips,

calves, arms, etc., with good effect, and in fact a little

sensible massage will act as a valuable assistant to the

exercise work, in the direction named. The massage
movements which may be described as "kneading"
and "rolling" the flesh are particularly useful. A
good plan is to take a general, thorough massage treat-
ment from some skilled operator, and carefully noting

her movements, you may then apply to yourself such

of the movements as may appeal to you as helpful.
Rolling Exercise. Many favor the familiar "floor-
106
rolling" exercise as useful in the direction of reducing
the extra fat of the abdomen, and hips, especially.

This is a simple exercise. Place a sheet on the floor,

to protect your clothing (but you should wear as little

clothing as possible during this exercise), and then

simply roll over and over —that's all there is

to it —simple, but effective. Carry the arms at the

sides, during the rolling process, so as to get them out
of the way. Turn over about twenty-five times the
first trial; and then gradually increase to not over one
hundred turns — though some say two hundred is not
too many, after a time. This rolling exercise increases
the circulation, stirs up the liver and bowels, and burns
up the excess fat on the abdomen and hips. But, to be
effective, the rolling must be regularly performed, daily,

and not in fitful starts and spasmodic efforts. Good,

solid, hard work alone will prove of any benefit in this
exercise.

Reducing Double Chin. Good vigorous, regular,

massage will do much to reduce the double chin. Some

advocate the wearing of chin straps or masks at night,
so as to induce excessive perspiration of the chin, thus
causing the excess fat to dissolve. A solution of
powered alum and Epsom salts in water applied to the
flesh of the double chin and neck will cause; these parts

to manifi I at least a temporary firmness. But, after

all, the besl plan is to pracl ice I he various neck exercises
given in the succeeding chapter (Chapter XIV) par-
ticularly "Neck Development Exercise III." This last

107
mentioned neck exercise will not only develop a full,

firm, strong neck, but will also tend to burn up the

superfluous fat on the double chin, if persistently and
regularly practiced.

Caution. I do not advise you to practice the more

vigorous of the flesh-reducing exercises during the
menstrual period, at least at the beginning. And, I

do not consider it at all wise to take too vigorous

calisthenic exercises of any kind during pregnancy, or
if you have a weak heart, at least not unless with the

approval of your physician. I also request you to re-

read the close of my chapter on general exercise, for

suggestions regarding calisthenic exercises.
Moderation and Persistence should be your
watchword in all exercise.

Endurance is the natural result of repetition.

Female Troubles. These abdominal and hip exer-
cises used with moderation and persistence will prove

valuable in overcoming female troubles. Additional

splendid special exercises for this purpose were given
in PHYSICAL CULTURE magazine for May, 1913.
Such exercises as these, along with other practices out-

lined in this book, coupled with local douches for clean-

liness, will cure almost any case of female trouble.

Under such treatment, even the troubles peculiar to
motherhood will in most instances cease to trouble.

Go easy, and keep at it. Let that be your watchword.

108
 CHAPTER XIV.

Flesh-developing Exercises.

JSSS we have stated in a preceding

chapter, just as superfluous flesh

may be got rid of by the proper

calisthenic exercises, so may addi-
tional solid flesh be taken on in

the same way by the woman who

needs filling out. The proper exer-
cise will cause an increase in good
solid flesh in the parts particularly

exercised. This because nature re-

sponds in a reaction following the

breaking down of tissue by exercise, and begins
actively to build up new solid material to replace
that broken down and dissolved by the work of the

exercise. But, of course, the exercise must not be

continued to the point of exhaustion or actual fatigue.
And, on the other hand, it is an established fact that

moderate exercises taken in regular succession, that is

daily, will do far more to build up the body than will

strenuous exercise taken at longer intervals.
Exercises That Work Both Ways. Strange as it

may appear at first, it is a fact that the same exercises

which tend to reduce superfluous fat on any special

109
part of the body will also tend to build up solid flesh,

and thus enlarge the same part of the body when

the person is lacking in normal weight and measure-
ment. The same exercise that burns up the fat, will

develop solid flesh and muscle', the same exercise that

brings down the fat woman to normal, will bring up

the scrawny woman to normal. Simple but true!

Remember it!

Developing Hips and Thighs. In accordance with

the above statement of facts, I recommend for the
development of the thighs and hips, when the same
are below normal proportions, the same exercises
that I gave in the preceding chapter for the reduction
of superfluous fat on the thighs and hips. There
is no use in repeating the same here, but you are
cautioned not to underrate their importance because
they are merely referred to here in this connection.
They are the greatest normal leg developing exercise
known to physical culture to-day, and must not be
underrated. I shall now give you a few very good
additional exercises designed especially for the develop-
ment of the calves and lower leg. These are equally
important for the woman with legs below the normal
standard.
General Calf Development. The following exercises
are specially designed to develop the calves of the
legs. In this connection you must remember that
in the preceding chapter you have been given several

exercises which are very effective in the direction

110
of developing the thighs and hips, when the same are
below normal proportions, while equally efficient in

the direction of burning up the excessive fatty ac-

cumulations on these parts of the body when same
are in excess of normal. The following exercises are
intended to develop particularly the calf and lower
portions of the leg, when same are below normal
proportions; but they will act in the direction of
reducing the fat on these portions of the leg if in

excess of normal. I have already pointed out the

cause of this twofold action of these exercises.
Calf Development Exercise I. (1) Stand erect;

feet close together; hands clasped at waist. (2) Rise

slowly on the toes without bending the knees. (3)
Sink slowly to first position. Repeat several times.
This is one of the best "calf developers" ever designed,
and is used by the best physical culture instructors
the world over. It is very effective, and its action
is speedily manifested. One may develop her calves,
very noticeably in a short time, by faithfully following
this exercise. It will be apt to cause a muscular
soreness in the calves, at first, owing to the unusual
use of the muscles of that part of the leg, but this
will soon disappear and a firm, solid, well-formed
calf will develop. As we have said, however, in the
case of an over-fat person, the surplus fat on the
calves will disappear, and be replaced by the firm,

strong, well-proportioned normal calf.

Note. The exercises for reducing the hips, given in

111
the preceding chapter, will also work excellently in the
direction of developing the calf, in connection with those

given in the present chapter. Do not neglect to include

them in your system of exercises for the purpose.

Calf Development Exercise II. (1) Stand erect,

raised on your toes, hands clasped at waist. (2) Then

smartly swing the right foot backward and upward,
as if you were trying to "kick yourself" with your
heel. (With a little practice you may actually perform
the kicking.) (3) Assume first position; and repeat
with the left foot. Repeat this a number of times,
alternating feet — first right and then left — in quick,
active movement, never, however, allowing the heel
of either foot to sink to the floor, using only the
toes for support. This exercise is splendid for the
calves, and will also generally "limber up" the knee
joints.

Calf Development Exercise III. (1) Stand erect,

balancing on toes, hands clasped at waist. (2)

Then walk around the room on your toes

— "tiptoe"
fashion —several times, in fact, until you become a
little tired. This is a splendid calf developer.

Calf Development Exercise IV. (1) Lie flat on the

back, with legs extended straight in a natural manner,
heels on ground and toes pointing upward. (2) Then,
without changing the position of the legs, point the
toes forward, extending them as far as they will go,

drawing the heels backward and upward, of course.

(3) Then draw back the toes toward the shin, as far

112
as they will go, pressing the heels forward, of course.
Repeat a number of times. This exercise is also

a splendid calf developer, and will soon tire the muscles

of the calf, at least at first.

Calf Development Exercise V. (1) Stand erect,

balanced on your toes, hands clasped to your sides

at waist. (2) Then, without moving from your
original standing place, alternately raise one foot
and then the other, in a skipping movement, raising

the knee well upward, and never allowing the heels

to touch the floor. This exercise is something akin
to "tiptoe running," while standing still; or, perhaps,
still more like an imaginary "skipping rope" exercise
—a combination of the two, in fact. A little practice
will give you the exact idea, better than can any
written description.
Neck Development. The following exercises are
designed to develop the neck into a healthy, firm,
well-rounded condition; but, as before indicated, will
also tend to remove the superfluous fatty accumula-
tions around the neck region where same exist.

Neck Development Exercise I. (1) Stand erect,

hands clasped at waist. (2) Then bend the head

sideways, first to the right and then to the left. Repeat
a number of times. Bend the head as far as possible
without undue effort.

Neck Development Exercise II. (1) Stand erect,

hands clasped at waist. (2) Then turn the head

alternately slowly from right to left as far as it will

113
go in either direction without undue effort. Repeat
several times.
Neck Development Exercise III. (1) Stand erect,

hands clasped at waist. (2) Then bend the head

slowly backward and forward as far as possible without
undue effort. Repeat several times.
Repeat all these exercises over again with muscles
tensed.
The above three exercises comprise the framework
upon which all of the more intricate and fanciful
"neck development systems" are built. There is

nothing to be gained by fanciful variations. Stick

to the elementary exercises above given and you

will reap the full benefit without having to bother

about a thousand-and-one minute directions.

Arm Development. The following exercises are

designed to develop the arm, forearm, and upper arm.

They, following the general rule, will also tend to re-
move superfluous fat from these portions of the body.
Forearm Development Exercise. (1) Stand erect,

hands hanging down naturally at the sides. (2)

Clinch the fists, tightly, very tightly and stiffen the

forearms. (2) Then twist both forearms, smartly,

the right arm to the right, and the left arm to the
left, as far as possible without undue effort; then re-

verse the motion, the right arm to the left and the left

arm to the right. Repeat a number of times. Then

hold the arms extended straight in front of you, and
go through the same twisting motions. Then hold
114
the arms extended from the shoulders, sideways,
toward the right and left, respectively, and go through
the same twisting motions.
Note. It may help you to place small rolls of news-
paper, or similar small rolls, in the clinched fist, before
beginning the twisting motions, keeping the rolls there,

of course, during the entire exercise. This exercise will

prove most effective in developing the forearm, or in

reducing undue fat on that portion of the body. It may
be repeated many times during the day, if desired. It

will, naturally, make the muscles of the forearm some-

what sore at first.

There have been many exercises designed for the

development of the forearm, but the above is held

to contain the principal points of all the others besides
being remarkably simple and easily used; therefore,
we give it alone, without taking up your time and
attention with useless additional exercises.
Upper-arm Developing Exercise I. (1) Stand erect,

with clinched fists raised to the shoulders. (2) Raise

the arms to full length straight upwards over the
head. (3) Bring the arms down to original position.
Repeat several times.
Upper-arm Developing Exercise II. (1) Stand
erect, with arms extended straight out from the sides
at the shouldf-rs and hands open naturally with palms
upward. (2) Bending the arms at the elbow, slowly
bring the hands upward, circling toward the neck,
until the tips of the fingers touch the base of the neck
115
where it joins the shoulders. (2) Then swing the arms
back to the original position. Repeat a number of
times.
Note. A more strenuous and vigorous form of this

exercise is obtained by tensing the arms stiffly, during

the exercise, so as to produce a strain or tension of the
muscles of the arms during the exercise.
Upper-arm Development Exercise III. (1) Stand
erect, with arms extended straight forward from the
shoulder, out in front of you; fists clinched. (2)

Then bring the clinched fists smartly back until they

strike against the shoulder in front. (3) Resume
original position, and repeat several times with a
continuous motion.
Upper-arm Development Exercise IV. (1) Stand
erect, with arms extended straight out from the sides,
at the shoulders; fists clinched. (2) Then bring
back the clinched fists, smartly, until they strike
against the top of the shoulders. (3) Resume original

position, and repeat several times with a continuous

motion.
Upper-arm Development Exercise V. (1) Stand
erect, with arms extended straight out from the sides,

at the shoulder; fists clinched. (2) Then, with each

arm, describe an imaginary circle upward and back-
ward, keeping the arms fully extended. Move slowly
at first, and then more rapidly. Make your circle
smaller at first, and then larger as the motion increases.

This exercise not only develops the upper arm, but

116
also the muscles of the shoulder, and also has a decided

beneficial action upon the muscles of the chest; and

may be used to advantage in the development of
the bust, in connection with the exercises given in the
succeeding chapter.
Wrist Development Exercises. The wrists may be
developed by moving the hands backward and forward,
holding the forearm stiff. Also, by giving the hands
and wrists a twisting circular movement (first in one
direction and then in the other) holding the forearm

stiff during the movements. A series of more com-

plicated wrist movements may easily be built up
from these simple elementary ones —try ityouif

wish to exercise your ingenuity —but the simple ones

will do the work equally well. Suit yourself.
I request that you reread the suggestions given at
the close of my chapter on general exercise.

117
 chapter xv.

Bust Development.

1 8 EARLY if not entirely all of the races

of mankind, ancient and modern,

Nj 9
have regarded a well-developed, well-
formed, firm bust as a distinguish-
ing mark
statuary of
of womanly beauty.
ancient Greece
The
shows
perhaps the nearest approach to the
ideal in this feature that the race
has ever attained. It follows, there-

fore, that a perfect bust development

is the ideal of every woman who
seeks physical beauty —and that means, practically,
every woman who lives.

Building up the Bust. While it is true that a general

state of health may be considered as one of the pre-
requisites of a beautiful and well-formed bust (and I am
far from underrating this fact, insisting as I do on ideal

hygienic conditions), nevertheless, I feel justified in

stating that very much can be done in the direction of

building up and developing the bust even before per-

fect health is attained. That is to say, that while the
woman is building up her general health along the lines

which I have referred to in the earlier chapters of this

118
book she may proceed even more rapidly with the
development of her bust, for the nerves and cells of

the breast are remarkably responsive to the proper

stimulus.
Preliminary Suggestions. I believe, however, that
one should begin bust development by attending to the
state of the colon, as stated in the earlier chapters of

this book. This because the impacted colon tends to

press upon and derange the nerve centers of the sexual
organism; and there being a very close coimection

between the feminine sexual centers and breasts, the

latter reflect the disturbed condition of the former.
Removing the cause of the disturbance results in
improved conditions in both sexual centers and in the
breasts. Do not overlook this important point, please.
Bust development may be said to consist of two
forms of exercises, viz. : (1) local massage, etc., and (2)

general calisthenics for chest development. I shall

present these to you in the order named.

Local Methods of Bust Development. The following
contains the essence of the many widely advertised and
highly recommended "systems" of, or "treatments"
for, the development of the bust: (1) Gently sponge
the breasts with warm water (not too hot, but just com-
fortably and soothingly warm), using cither a soft

sponge or soft cloth. This softens the parts and opens

the pores. (2) Then, gently massage the breasts, in a
circular and upward manner, viz., beginning at the lower
outer edge of the breast, and then working around and

119
around, toward the nipple. Finish by a gentle thorough
massage of the nipple itself. You are cautioned against
pressing hard upon any part of the breast so as to bruise
it, or even to press it roughly; and especially do I warn
you against the practice of pinching the breasts or nip-
ples, which plan is advised in some of the so-called "sys-
tems." The mammary glands and the surrounding
parts are very tender, and roughness may injure them.

Cocoa butter or olive oil may be effectively used in this

massage; use same liberally. This massage treatment
may be given daily but do not overdo it. (3) Conclude
the treatment by gently dashing or spraying a little

cool water on the breasts, so as to firm the flesh and

close the pores.

The above treatment will tend to arouse the blood

vessels supplying the breasts; to increase the circulation

to the parts massaged; to stimulate the nerve supply in

the region of the breasts; and thus to feed and afford
nourishment to the glands, cells, and tissues of the bust.

Accordingly, it is but natural that the bust should grad-

ually increase in size and improve in form, for Nature's

plans are being followed and her pattern used in forming

the parts.
Flabbij Breast Treatment. The above treatment is

also beneficial in the case of flabby breasts, that is, in

breasts which have become shrunken in tissue and flesh,

but with the skin remaining enlarged. There is this

difference, however that in

, this case one need not use
the quantity of cocoa butter or olive oil indicated in the

120
treatment just described. This, because the main ob-
ject in the present case is to give increased strength to

the muscles, and firmness to the skin, rather than to

add fleshy substance. In this case, also, the entire
chest should be massaged and stimulated, so as to bring
about an equalized condition.
Firming the Breasts. It may assist you in firming

the breasts, to use a simple preparation, which may be

procured at any druggist 's and which consists of a few
drops of benzoin and a small quantity of powdered
alum mixed with a little ordinary cold cream. Use
this in massaging as above directed.
Simple Hints in Bust Development. You will find

that exercise in full breathing, mentioned in a preceding

chapter, will do much to develop the breasts and general
region of the bust. The "full breath," or breathing
from all the parts of the lungs, practiced a few minutes
every day, will do much for you in this direction.

You must also not forget that a proper position of

the chest in walking, standing, and sitting will assist in
giving you the appearance of a full and firm bust and
will moreover tend to develop the chest region. The
chin up; theabdomen drawn in; and the chest well for-
—
ward and slightly upward this is the correct position.
Practice it, and make it your own!
General Exercises for Bust Development. I now pre-
sent to your attention the following general calisthenic
exercises designed to develop the chest and bust, all of
which are well recommended, and some of which have
121
also formed the basis of some celebrated "systems,"
although not originating with their founders.
Bust Development Exercise I. (1) Stand erect, with
arms hanging naturally from the sides. (2) Raise the
arms from the sides to a horizontal position, when they
will extend at full length on each side with the palms
downward. (3) Raise arms from side with a circular
movement over the head, bending the forearm so that
the tips of the fingers meet and touch over the top of
the forehead, with elbows well pressed backward (thumbs
of hands pointing to the rear, of course). (4) Extend
arms upward at full length, holding them apart, with
palms facing each other. (5) Force the arms backward
in an oblique direction, and, holding them well pressed
back, gradually lower them to the sides, and resume
first position. These motions must form a continuous
motion, and not a series of disjointed ones. Remember
the importance of keeping the elbows well pressed back,
in the fourth motion; and the forcing and pressing back
of the arms in the fifth motion. Repeat several times.
The "Setting-up Drill." The above exercise is the
celebrated "First Exercise" of the "Setting-up Drill"
of the United States Army, and is one of the best ever
devised for the purpose of developing the chest muscles
so that they may present a well-rounded surface, and
at the same time throwing the shoulders back so that
the chest will assume a full appearance. It has been
recently discovered to be especially efficacious in the
case of the bust development of women, and bids fair to

122
prove as popular with them for this purpose as it has for
many years proved with the men who wish to acquire
the military shoulder carriage and the prominent, well-
rounded chest. It may seem a little complicated at
first trial, but a little careful rehearsal will soon make
3
r
ou proficient in its use. Once acquired, it will never
be forgotten, and will prove a favorite exercise.
Bust Development Exercise II. (1) Stand erect,

with arms extended straight in front of the body, palms

touching. (2) Swing the hands, vigorously, to the rear,

letting them drop a trifle downward during the back-

ward swing, at the same time rising on the toes, with
heels off the ground. Repeat several times. This is a
vigorous, sprightly exercise, and you must throw your
spirit into it to make it effective. It is a wonderful
chest expander and developer.
Bust Development Exercise HI. (1) Stand erect,

with arms hanging naturally from sides. (2) Clinch

the fists and make the arms tense, and then quickly
raise the hands straight up from the side, until they are
extended straight above the head. Return to first

position, and repeat several times.

Bust Development Exercise IV. (1) Stand in front

of an open door frame, on the side away from the one

on which the door swings outward; your feet about one
foot back of the door frame, and your arms ex-
tended straight forward from the shoulders, your

open palms pressing against the sides of the

door frame, a little below the height of your
123
shoulder (about on a level with your breasts). (2)

Then, keeping your hands and feet in the same position,

slowly swing the upper part of your body through the

open door frame until your shoulders are well pressed
backward, and you can feel the pressure on your
shoulders and chest muscles. (3) Then slowly press
yourself back, with your arms, until you resume the
first position. Repeat several times, slowly. You
will be delighted with the buoyant feeling that will

result from this exercise, if correctly practiced, and

with the "feel" of your well-pressed-back shoulders,
and your rounded and projecting chest and bust, which

will result. This is a valuable corrective to the droop-

ing shoulders and curved chest resulting from stooping
over your work, the sewing-machine, typewriter, desk,
or dishpan.
Walking, Sitting, Standing. Do not forget to sit,

walk, and stand with chest well to the front, shoulders

thrown back, and abdomen drawn in. Practice the
breathing exercises given in a preceding chapter. All

of these things help materially in the work of develop-

ing the bust. You can have a well-developed, well-
rounded, firm bust — but you must work for it. And
remember this, that everything you do in the way of
rational development exercise for the increase in bust

measurement will also result in improved conditions of

general health. Is this not worth while?

124
 chapter xvi.

The Skin.

S8N Chapter V of this book, I have

given you a brief description of the
structure and functions of the skin
and shall therefore not mention the
same further in this chapter, but
shall at once proceed to the con-
sideration of the hygiene of the skin.

It may be well for you to refer to

Chapter V for the purpose of

refreshing your mind on this sub-

ject, before proceeding further with
the present chapter.
Skin Health. As I have indicated in the preceding
chapters, as I proceed with my story of general beauty,
the skin depends for its healthy condition upon the
normal functioning of the general system; therefore,
anything creating abnormal conditions of any of the
other parts of the system is sure to adversely affect the
beauty of the skin. For this reason, especially, I have
laid great stress upon the subjects of the clean colon,
water drinking, bathing, diet, sleep, exercise, rest, breath-
ing, etc. I may, then, sum up the prime requisites for

a healthy, beautiful skin as follows: Cleanliness, and

125
 —

the observance of the hygienic principles laid down in

the book for the general welfare of the body.

But there are certain special disturbances peculiar
to the skin, which we must consider as we proceed. A
little common-sense treatment will relieve the majority
of these troubles.
Chapped Skin. The condition generally known as

"chapping" is usually the result of exposure in cold

weather. Chapping may be explained in a few words,
i.e., as an abnormal dryness of the skin which permits

cracking of the surface. In winter, the oil of the skin

is not so much in evidence and the skin is apt to suffer

by reason of this condition. Chapping may be pre-
vented by avoiding too great exposure of the
skin to the cold air, particularly after washing
although a careful drying of the skin will reduce
the chances of chapping, even in such cases. The
use of too strong soap sometimes causes chapping.
A little good cold cream, carefully applied, will do
much to save the skin from chapping, and, likewise

an application of cold cream at night will tend to

heal the chapped places. Anything that will supply
oil to the skin, which it needs at this time, will tend
to prevent or cure the chapped condition.
Chafed Skin. Chafing frequently occurs in the
portions of the skin in which one part rubs against an-
other, in the folds and creases especially. Friction of

the clothing also is a cause of the same trouble. The

treatment is simple, viz., keeping the affected parts
126
carefully cleaned and powdered. Soap and water
should be used, the soap being well rinsed off, and the
skin well dried. In very troublesome cases a little

diluted alcohol may be used as an antiseptic. After

bathing the affected parts carefully dust them with
ordinary talcum powder, or powdered boracic acid, or
better still, with a mixture of both of these powders.
Sunburn, Freckles, and Tan. Sunburn, freckles,

and tan arise from undue exposure to the sun of course.

The sunburn proper arises from the irritating qualities

of certain rays of the sun 's light, and not from its heat
as is generally supposed. The inflamed condition is

usually followed by a tanning process, which is nature 's

effort to render the skin immune from further sunburn.
Freckles are simply the result of an uneven tanning of
the skin, resulting from the peculiar distribution of
pigment cells.

How to Cure Sunburn. Sunburn is treated by mild,

cooling, soothing applications, such as mild glycerine

and rosewater lotions, or glycerine and witch-hazel, or

a mild solution of alcohol and water. A little powder
dusted on after the other remedies have been applied
will be found pleasant and beneficial. Some prefer the
use of a little cold cream as a comfortable, protecting
covering of the burnt skin. The use of a good cold
cream, followed by a good toilet powder dusting, will

often prevent sunburn.

How to Cure Tan and Freckles. Tan and freckles
are somewhat difficult to remove without danger of in-

127
jury to the skin. The majority of the freckle removers

sold by the druggists contain mercury in some form, or

strong corrosive substances which may severely irritate
sensitive skins. I caution my readers against using
these dangerous preparations. Many have had great
success in the use of lemon juice in this comiection; the

acid in the lemon juice causing the skin to scale off and
take with it the freckle or tan. Peroxide of hydrogen
solution, used to sponge the face after a careful washing
with hot water and soap, is held by many to work very
well. Others use a weak solution of ammonia, applied
by sponging, but this sometimes proves irritating to

tender skins and should be used very carefully if at all.

Some combine the peroxide and ammonia, in equal

parts.

Liver Spots or Moth Patches. These terms are com-

monly applied to those annoying spots or patches which
appear on the skin, particularly on the face and hands.
Women are especially subject to them, and those of
dark colored skin seem particularly liable to their occur-

rence. Medical science does not as yet thoroughly

understand the exact cause of these spots or patches,
but the old idea of their being caused by the liver is now
discarded. However, keeping the stomach, liver, and,
particularly, the colon, in normal condition, is believed
to prevent or cure this trouble in most cases. The
mercury ointments are frequently used for these spots,

but with the danger of burning the skin as above

mentioned. The milder methods are those above sug-

128
gested for the removal of freckles and tan. The
peroxide-ammonia solution is especially favored by-

many in this connection, used carefully and applied

by sponging.
Warts and Moles. I should advise that the physi-
cian be consulted regarding the removal of moles and
warts, as much trouble arises at times from amateur
surgery in such cases. It is always well to be on the
safe side in such cases, especially as the chemicals used

to eradicate warts and moles happen to be particularly

strong and dangerous in unskilled hands.
Ringworm. This annoying but rather uncommon
trouble is usually treated by an application of tincture
of iodine, applied with a camel's-hair brush. But even
this remedy must be used carefully and not too often,

and it would be better to have it applied by a

physician.

Blackheads. This annoying skin complaint is not

caused by tiny worms, as many imagine, but by fatty,

sweaty, waste matter retained in large inactive pores of

the skin. The treatment for blackheads consists in a

vigorous washing or scrubbing of the affected portions

of the skin, using hot water and a good soap. In the

majority of cases the skin in which the blackheads arc
located is apt to be quite oily or grcas}', so there is

little danger of chapping. The use of sponge appli-

cations of diluted alcohol to the affected part is held to
be beneficial. Steaming the face is also favored by
many, but this should not OD any account be resorted
120
to habitually. (See Chapter XVII for directions for

face steaming.)
After the skin has been cleansed and softened by
following the above described treatments the black-
heads should be removed. Some use the fingers for
this purpose, while others prefer one of the several
little instruments sold by druggists for the purpose.
The old-fashioned watch-key pressed around the black-
head, so that the latter may be squeezed into the hole
of the key, is about as good as any of the "bought"
appliances for that purpose. When the blackhead
comes out apply peroxide of hydrogen to the spot; and
use the same liquid on the face after the process is com-,

pleted Cleanse the extracting implement with the

peroxide both before and after using, to render it anti-

septic.

Whiteheads. This term is commonly applied to

milium or small whitish pimples, which sometimes form
around the upper part of the cheeks, just below the eyes.
They are really blackheads without the outside dirt,
and should be treated in a similar manner so far as the

sponging is concerned. Their removal, however, is

best effected by using a sterilized needle to prick the

surface, after which the white substance may be care-

fully squeezed out. Be sure to apply a little peroxide

to the spot before and after the operation.

Dry Skin. There is frequently met with a condition

of dry, scaly surface of the skin, which is usually due to

incorrect habits of living, such as improper eating, lack

130
of exercise, impacted colon, etc. Removing the cause
of course removes the trouble itself, so I must refer you
back to my chapters on these subjects in other parts of
this book. In addition, facial massage and the careful
use of some good facial cream will do much to aid the
cure. A mixture of glycerine and rosewater is helpful

in such cases, and is agreeable to use. Avoid all skin-

drying substances, such as ammonia, borax, etc., if you

are troubled with a dry, scaly skin.
Greasy Skin. Directly opposed to the dry-skin con-
dition just mentioned there occurs in some persons a
condition of over-oily or over-greasy surface of the skin
which arises from an extra-active condition of cer-

tain glands of the skin. This condition is very often

accompanied by enlarged pores of the skin. It very

often arises from or at least is accentuated by an

impacted colon, a torpid liver, and indigestion, hence

removing these causes tends to cure the condition of the

skin mentioned. This condition of the skin is often
accompanied by blackheads and the general scrubbing
treatment suggested for blackheads will also prove
useful. Avoid the use of greasy creams, when the skin
is in this condition, but apply boracic acid solution,
alcohol solutions, and, occasionally, a little astringent
wash such as a solution of alum, etc.

Red Nose. This condition of the skin of the nose

generally arises from disturbances of the digestion,
impacted colon, etc., and the first treatment should be
directed toward the restoration of normal functioning

131
of those parts of the body which are not doing their work
properly. Local treatment consists of nasal douches of
warm salt water night and morning. A little boracic
acid dusted over the freshly cleansed nose before retir-
ing is also recommended by some authorities. In
aggravated cases it may be well to seek medical advice

and treatment.
Pimples. This condition is one of the most annoy-
ing to the woman who is afflicted with it. It is par-
ticularly troublesome to young women and girls in

their teens. It arises, often, from disturbances of the

digestive sj-stem and in many cases is aggravated by
the existence of an impacted colon. The general
health directions given by me in the earlier chapters

of this book will do much to remove the cause of

this annoying trouble. Restoring normal elimination
through the bowels by correcting the constipated colon
and drinking sufficient water, bathing and exercise,
accompanied by correct breathing, will cause a speedy
improvement and even cure in most cases.

Local Treatment for Pimples. Local treatment of

ordinary pimples, or acne, consists of the careful cleans-
ing of the skin, as indicated in the treatment for black-
heads. Be careful to remove all blackheads, as these
tend to irritate the skin and to bring on more pimples.
In fact by many authorities blackheads are regarded

as one of the active causes of pimples. The use of

"green soap" is especially useful in this complaint, as

it has a tendency to remove the greasy deposits and

132
seal}" skin. "Green soap" may be obtained from any
druggist at a moderate cost; some prefer tincture of

green soap, to the soap itself. Green soap (which is

really of an amber color, and not green at all) is a soft

alkaline soap, too strong and irritating to be used indis-

criminately, and never to be used on a too dry skin.

Removing the Pus. When pus forms in the pimples,

it is well to open the pimple carefully, using a sterilized
needle, and then gently press out the matter. Be sure
to put a little alcohol or peroxide on the spot after

removing the pus. The needle may be sterilized by

dipping it in alcohol or peroxide. It is also better to

wet the spot with a little alcohol or peroxide before

puncturing the pimple. Remove the pus with a bit of
absorbent cotton which has previously been dipped in
a little alcohol. These precautions should always be
taken as they will obviate the danger of infection.
Steaming by applying hot-water cloths to the
affected skin, followed by cold water rinsings, will often

prove quite beneficial in cases of pimples. But do not

make a habit of steaming or heating the skin, lest the
pores become habitually distended and coarse.
Eczema. This is a most disagreeable skin disease
and one most difficult to treat effectively. Those
seriously afflicted by it should not attempt self-treat-
ment beyond observing the ordinary care of the skin,
but should consult a reliable physician and be governed >

by his advice.
^
Cold Sores and Fever Blisters. A simple treatment
133
for this bothersome complaint is the application of
spirits of camphor or peroxide of hydrogen frequently

to the sore spot, to check the progress of the sore.

Dabbling the incipient cold sore with peroxide or
camphor or alum every half hour or so for the first half

day will check its spread. After the sores have

"broken" or become torn or open, it is well to apply
some antiseptic solution such as peroxide of hydrogen

several times a day. Borated vaseline, or a com-

bination of powdered boracic acid and ordinary vase-
line, is also recommended by many in this connection.

The appearance of a cold sore should be the signal

for an immediate clearing and cleansing of the colon

and a reduction in the quantity of food taken.

134
 CHAPTER XVII.

The Face, Neck, and Hands.

RARING for the Face. The first and

principal step in the proper care of the

face is to keep it in a clean condition

by proper and sufficient washing. I

regret to say that there have been and

may still be, teachers of beauty-culture
who instruct their pupils to beware of

washing the face, for fear of injury to

the skin. This is rank nonsense, de-

rided by all the best authorities. The
skin of the face requires washing, and
frequent washing at that. Oils and creams alone can-
not, and do not, keep the face clean, and the conse-
quence of their use in place of water results in a deposit
of dirt, grease, and oil on the skin which is far from
being healthy or beautiful.
Washing the Face. The face should be washed
with warm water, using only good soap. Use a good
crash washcloth. It is a good plan to give the face a
good, careful washing at night, just before retiring,
taking the necessary time for the task; then in the
morning a warm water bathing followed by cold water
rinsing will be all that is necessary, a second scrubbing

135
with soap not being necessary at that time. Several
rinsings each day with cool water, and one good real

washing with washcloth, soap, and hot water, will be

all that the average face needs, although there may be
conditions and surroundings that render extra wash-
ings advisable.
Cold Cream Treatment. If the skin of the face is

extremely dry, and lacking in the natural oils, it may

be well to give the face an occasional treatment of
good cold cream, say once or twice a week, massaging
the cream well into the skin. This treatment should
follow after the face has been thoroughly washed with
soap and warm water; and should also be followed by
a similar face washing and cold water rinsing.
The moderate use of some plain, simple, good
powder, such as talcum powder, etc., does no harm, and
often serves a good purpose in protecting the face. But
the daily use of fat creams and ointments, followed by
a thick coating or plastering of powder, is sure to result
in clogging the skin, the results being an unpleasant
sight to persons of taste and refinement.
Choice of Soaps. Use the best white castile soap, or

select some good standard toilet soap, and do not be

deluded by fancy wrappers, perfumed soaps, or
"patent" soaps claimed to have great medicinal prop-
erties. The well-known English "Pear's Soap" is

good though rather drying to the skin; and so is the

plain, well-known American "Ivory Soap," among
others. Make your own choice, selecting some good
136
standard brand, and remembering that you are not
buying a medicine chest, nor a perfumery outfit, but
simply a good, safe, cleansing material. We have
mentioned "green soap" in the preceding chapter — it

has its proper place and use, but is not intended as an

everyday soap for the toilet.

Choice of Face Powders. The right kinds of face

powders serve the purpose of protecting the skin,

besides the better-known office of "beautifying."

Properly used, they are commendable but abused they ;

are deplorable. I caution you especially against face

powders belonging to the general class of "cosmetic

powders," and sold as having great virtues in improv-
ing the skin. Many of these powders contain lead or
bismuth, both of which are injurious to the skin. Be-
ware also of combinations of oily creams and powder,
as such tend to clog the pores and to produce blackheads
and similar troubles, even pimples sometimes resulting

from their use.

The simple, harmless toilet powders are composed
principally of talcum, starch, or rice powder. You may
prepare these powders yourself, if you wish, from
materials obtained from your druggist. You may also

perfume them to suit your taste. Finely powdered

starch or rice powder is the lightest and Least perceptible,
but they ha-ve the tendency to spoil if allowed to be-
comedampor moist. Talcum is the best all-around
substance for the toilet powder as it is not affected by
moisture, and always remains the same. A little

137
powdered boracic acid makes an excellent addition to
the ordinary talcum powder. Here is the formula:
one tenth powdered boracic acid to nine tenths talcum
powder; perfume to suit your taste, a few drops of
extract of violets usually being used.
Face Creams. Face creams, used properly, have
their place and use. It is only the abuse of these
articles that is to be condemned. We have seen that
nature normally supplies a certain amount of oil to the
skin, in order to keep it soft and pliable, and to prevent
cracking or scaling. If, as often happens, the supply
of oil is scant, then we may profitably aid nature by
supplying some pure, harmless oil in small quantities.
The very dry skin generally needs a little extra oil in

the shape of a face cream; the very oily skin, not so

often. The great mistake, however, in the use of face

creams is that of allowing them to remain on the face,

where they become mixed with dirt, and a clogged
condition of the pores results. Face creams should be
removed from the surface of the face after first being

well rubbed into the skin.

I do not approve of the daily application of face

creams; once a week is sufficient in the average case.

The best face cream is some good cold cream made by

some reputable manufacturer, avoiding all fanciful prep-

arations and so-called "medicinal creams." Equally

good is -pure olive oil, however, perhaps better. Be sure
to get pure, fresh cold cream, and do not use it if it

seems to be rancid. It is well to add a little powdered

138
boracic acid to the cold cream. Some favor the use of
vaseline. In this connection, I would say that the best
authorities generally agree that the common belief that

oily creams, and particularly vaseline, tend to promote

the growth of hair on the face, is a popular superstition
having no warrant of truth behind it. But the average
woman will not be convinced on this score, so I shall

not press the matter. If these things would make hair

grow they would have an enormous sale as efficient

hair-restorers, for the want of which the drug trade has

been clamoring for years. However — well, what's the
use of talking?
Antiseptics. I have spoken several times of using
antiseptic solutions in connection with treatment of

the skin. The office of an antiseptic is to destroy germs

and thus prevent infection. Soap and water act as an

antiseptic. Alcohol is an excellent antiseptic and one
having many uses on the toilet table and around the
house. The same is true of peroxide of hydrogen,
another good antiseptic for ordinary purposes. Bo-
racic (or boric) acid, either in powdered form or dis-

solved in water, is a good thing to have around the

toilet table, for it has antiseptic properties and is a
useful remedy. I have mentioned it many times in
this book. Always apply antiseptics to wounds, cuts,

or scratches of the skin, also to opened pimples, etc.

Face Steaming. Many favor the steaming of the
face as a valuable aid to the complexion. In modera-
tion it is well worth trying, but always avoid making a
139
habit of anything of this kind. Face steaming is

applied by holding the face closely over a bowl or basin

of steaming hot water, the steam being allowed to
ascend to the face via a curled stiff towel, napkin, or

funnel of paper. Do not run the risk of scalding the

face, however, by using too hot water. Perspiration
will soon begin to flow profusely, which is a sign that
the work is being done, and that it is time to get ready
to stop, as you do not wish to parboil your face. After
the steaming, dry the face with soft towels or cloths,
and apply a little cold cream, which may be allowed to
remain a little time, after which it should be washed off,

rinsed with cold water, and wiped gently. Then a

little toilet powder may be used. Steaming opens the
pores and relaxes; the cold water is tonic and contracts
the pores to the normal.
Facial Massage. This form of treatment has many
advocates who claim for it great virtues in the direction
of generally toning up the skin, removing wrinkles,
curing flabby conditions, removing fatty accumulations
under the skin, etc. A little olive oil, almond oil, or

melted cocoanut oil may be used to advantage in facial

massage, that the fingers may easily pass over the face

without too much friction. The following directions

will give a good idea of a general facial massage, as
practiced by a good operator:
Directions for Facial Massage. (1) First apply hot
water towels to the face, to cleanse and soften it and
thus prepare it for the coming massage. It is better to

140
use two towels in this process —one left soaking in the
hot water, while the other is on the face. When the one
towel loses its heat, place it in the water and apply the
fresh one. Continue until each towel has been used
several times. Then thoroughly dry the face by "mop-
ping" it with a soft towel, instead of rubbing it.

(2) Then apply a small quantity of pure almond oil,

or pure olive oil, to the inner side of the fingers and palm
of the hand. Do not use too much oil — a mere trace is

all that is necessary, for the oil is used merely to allow

the hand to glide easily over the face without friction.
Cheek Massage. (3) Then massage the cheeks,
beginning about the chin, and proceeding upward with
your massage movements. After several movements
in this direction change the motion and proceed to
make a series of spiral movements on the cheeks, the
series of spirals being made in an upward direction.
If your cheeks are too fat, give the cheeks a good,
vigorous, thorough massage, using no cream or anything
of a nourishing nature; this form of massage will tend
to reduce the fat of the cheeks. If, on the contrary,
your cheeks are sunken, thin, and generally lacking in
plumpness, an opposite course must be pursued, namely,
a nourishing skin food must be used, and well rubbed
in. Pure cocoa butter is the best thing for this purpose.
Forehead and Temple Massage. (4) Then proceed
to massage the forehead and temples, moving the hands
always from the center of the forehead over the root
of the nose, toward the upper part of the temples; never
141
moving the hands downward or from the temples
inward. In forehead massage, first make the straight
movement, in the direction stated, and then follow up
with the series of spiral movements. After finishing
the forehead, give the temples a little special circular

massage, or spiral movements.

Chin Massage. (5) Then proceed to massage the
chin in the same manner, first straight movements and
then spiral, proceeding from the lower middle of the
chin, and working backward and upward. If the chin
is sunken, or lacking in plumpness, you may use a little
cocoa butter, as before mentioned but ; if the chin is too
fat, use vigorous, thorough movements to burn up the
fatty tissue, avoiding the use of the cocoa butter.

Under-Eyes Massage. (6) Then massage under the

eyes, as mentioned in Chapter XX of this book, in
which the eyes are specially considered.
Ear Massage. (7) Then give the ears a little gentle
massage treatment, passing gently behind them, in a
downward direction, and then gently massaging the
inner surface and cavities with the tips of the fingers.

In ear massage avoid upward movements, or those push-

ing the ear away from the head. On the contrary, the
ear should be pressed toward the head, and the move-
ments of the fingers should be downward.
Mouth Massage. (8) Then proceed to massage the
mouth and lips, always stroking inward toward the
center; except in cases of too prominent lips, when
the movements should be outward from the center.

142
 Nose Massage. (9) Then give the nose a little mas-
sage treatment, preferably by a series of small spirals,
upward toward the eye, taking care, at the beginning, to
thoroughly clean out the little creases at the base of the
nose, where grease often collects and blackheads form.
Neck Massage. (10) Then finish with a thorough
massage of the neck, which is given thoroughly and
carefully, from the lower front of the neck, working in
spirals upwards and backwards toward the ears. In
case of scrawny neck, use the cocoa butter liberally;
while if there is too much fat on the neck, omit the
nourishing cocoa butter and instead knead away the
fatty tissue.

(11) Finish by carefully washing off your face with

warm water, followed by a dash of cold water to give

firmness, then carefully dry the skin, and apply a little

toilet powder.
Wrinkles. There is no better treatment for wrinkles

than careful systematic massage treatment, as above

described, paying special attention to the wrinkled
portions of the face.

The Neck. What we have said in the general con-

sideration of the skin, and in the treatment of the face,

will apply equally to the neck. If anything, however,

the advice regarding the massage of the neck should be
specially considered, as the neck generally requires a
greater degree of that form of treatment than does the
face itself. The exercises for neck-development, and
neck-reduction, respectively (given in other chapters

143
of this book), will be found particularly useful and
beneficial. The use of high collars often results in a
discoloration of the neck. This discoloration may be
removed by the use of the remedial agents mentioned
in connection with tan and freckles (see Chapter XVI),
remembering however that the skin of the neck is

usually more tender than that of the face, and accord-

ingly more easily irritated by such applications.

The Hands. What I have said concerning the

general care of the skin, and the facial complexion,
applies also to the skin on the hands. Cleanliness and
care are as much needed for the hands as for the face.

The hands also need exercise. The " gripping exercise "

is furnished in connection with the exercises given in

another chapter of this book referring specially to
exercise of the forearm. The fingers also may be
moved in a manner suggestive of piano-practice or

typewriting work, and also drawn backward and for-

ward, and spread outward like a fan in order to render
them strong and flexible.

Hand Massage. The hands may also be massaged

to an advantage, the movements beginning at the wrist
and proceeding toward the finger-tips. Where the hands
are too fat, the fatty tissue may be massaged away;
while if they are skinny or scrawny, massage with nour-
ishing cocoa butter will prove beneficial. Where the
hands have grown hard and rough, from work or other-
wise, the application of olive oil will be found helpful.
It should be needless for me to caution you that the
144
nails should be well cared for; kept clean and well
brushed with a nail brush and also kept well manicured.
;

There is no need of your spending money with mani-

curists, unless your purse easily permits of the same,
for with a little preliminary instruction, and the use of
nail scissors, file, emery-boards, orange-wood sticks,
and buffer, you should be able to do the work very well,

yourself. These little appliances are not expensive,

and may be obtained from any drug store.

Manicuring. It may be well for you first to have

your nails manicured, several times, by some competent
manicure, during which process you should carefully
observe the several movements, handling of implements,
and general treatment; after which you may continue
the performance, yourself, at home, by carefully follow-

ing the example of the manicure and having the advan-

tage of a good start.
The hardest part of manicuring, of course, is that of
getting the irregular nails well shaped up, in good con-
dition, and well started, after which all that is required
is to keep up the good work.
Careless cutting of the nails is to be avoided; and
as for that relic of barbarism, "biting" nails — pardon
me, the subject is too unpleasant even to think of.

Avoid excesses in manicuring, such as fancy shaped

nails or extra polished. Remember that the secret

of good manicuring is not to attract attention to the
nails, but rather to avoid the attention usually given
nails either too little or too much manicured.
145
 chapter xviii.

The Hair and Its Care.

l| HERE is no woman who does not appre-

ciate the value of a luxuriant growth
of hair. Well has it been called "the
crowning glory of woman." And, as
a consequence, there is no woman who
is not interested in the subject of the
growth, care, and preservation of the
hair. Accordingly, I shall plunge at
once into this subject, without wast-
ing space in glorifying the hair, or in
describing the history of hair-culture,
or anything of that sort with which readers of "hair
books" are usually afflicted.

General Health and the Hair. Imay as well state,

right here at the beginning, that I am firmly convinced
that there can be no such thing as a fine head of hair
unless the woman first builds up her general health.

The hair is much dependent upon the general health

as
of its wearer as is the skin. One has but to observe the
quick reflection of the general health upon the coat of
hair of the animals, to get an idea of the close connection

referred to. Therefore, the first thing that you must

do, milady of the scanty tresses, is to build up your
146
general health and physical condition. And I feel no
hesitation in telling you that in this little book I have
given you information which should result in building
you into a strong, healthy woman, who may then expect
an increased growth of hair on her head.
But this does not mean that the hair will not
respond to the correct care and local treatment in the
case of every woman. The hair, like the muscles of any
part of the body, will respond to exercise and care and
may be increased thereby.
The Comb. The best regular exercise that can be
given the hair is that supplied by a careful and system-
atic combing, and so we shall consider this form of
exercise, now at the start. In the first place, be sure
that you have the right kind of comb. And, in the

second place, be sure that you keep your comb always

clean.

The best comb is the hard-rubber, " coarse" comb,

with smooth rounded edges which will not cut the hair.
A fine comb has many disadvantages, therefore I do not
recommend the ordinary rubber comb which is half fine

and half coarse. Get a coarse tooth comb, with teeth

of a like degree of coarseness along its entire length.

Never use a metal-tooth comb, as these, like the fine-

tooth rubber combs, tend to pull out good hair, to

cut hairs, and to wound and scratch the scalp. Beware,
particularly, of the sharp pointed-tooth comb, such as
our grandmothers so favored. And, also, discard a
comb the teeth of which arc broken. It pays better to
147
get a good comb in the beginning, for its lasts almost

forever with good care, and one does not run the risk of

broken comb teeth.

Wash the comb frequently, adding a little ammonia
to the water and scrubbing out the teeth with your nail

brush and soap. A little sun bath is also as good for

the comb as it is for the brush.

The Brush. Beware of the metal-bristle brushes, as

they tend to scratch the scalp, and often injure delicate

hair; and besides they often become rusty and unfit for

use. The brush should have bristles widely separated

from each other. A fairly stiff brush is preferable but
not too stiff. The bristles should be of even length
throughout the entire surface of the brush. The brush
should be kept scrupulously clean, by frequent washing
in soap and hot water with a little ammonia added,
then rinsed in cold water. The nail brush is a help
here, too.

Avoid using the combs or brushes of other persons

or of allowing others to use yours. Scalp diseases are

infectious and every precaution should be taken to
avoid them. You should no more think of using the
comb and brush of another than of using the other
person's tooth brush.
Combing the Hair. Begin the process of dressing
and caring for the hair with combing, of course, the
brushing naturally following after the combing. Mak-
ing a part in the middle, comb the hair in gentle motions
from the scalp downward to the ends, first on one side
148
and then on the other, continuing until the hair is

thoroughly disentangled and every hair hangs free

and the entire mass is soft and free. Then, after

exposing it to the air for a few moments, take up
your brush.
Brushing the Hair. The main object in brushing
the hair is to cleanse and stimulate the scalp, and to
clean and render smooth and glossy the hair. Correct
brushing is a valuable form of massage of the scalp.
The brushing should be continued until the hair shows
signs of "life, "as the hairdressers express it. A well-

known English authority advises a brushing of twenty

strokes on one side of the head, and then twenty on the
other; and so on, alternating in twenty-stroke series,
until each side receives a hundred strokes; but others
think that this number of strokes is excessive. One
must be governed by her own feelings in the matter,

to a great extent. Many careful women prefer to

brush the hair in smaller strands, finishing up with a
grand brush of the hair in two sections as above
described. Do not tear the hair by trying to untangle
it with the comb; in case of bad tangles the fingers
will do the work better and far more safely.

Airing the Hair. Many of the best authorities on

hair-culture advise an occasional airing of the hair,

that is to say, exposing the combed and brushed hair to

the air and sun if possible. Those who practice it

pronounce this plan very agreeable and generally

beneficial to the hair, as it serves to freshen it up, and
149
 .

relieve the roots of the strain of dressed hair. If you

have the opportunity, I suggest that you try it occasion-
ally.

Scalp Massage. The authorities differ regarding

the value of the scalp massage some claim great bene-
;

fits from it, while others incline to minimize its impor-

tance. Personally, I favor scalp massage. It certainly

stimulates the roots of the hair, and imparts a feeling

of life to the scalp and hair. In massaging the scalp,
use only the ends or tips of the fingers, being careful
to press only with the tips of the fingers, and avoiding
scratching the scalp with the nails. Place both hands
on the head, separating the fingers somewhat, and then
press the scalp between the finger tips, at the same
time giving to the scalp a gentle pressing forward motion
The finger tips should also be made to move in little

circles. Press firmly and do not let the fingers slip

along the scalp —make the scalp itself move in
circles.

"Weeding-out" the Hair. A number of authorities

strongly advise a form of massage a little more strenuous
than the ordinary form, such as is above described.
They advocate, in addition to the ordinary massage of
the scalp, a gentle pulling of the hair, which is effected

by grasping a small portion of the hair between the

separated fingers, and then gently lifting or pulling the
hair from the scalp by the closed fingers. This is

held not only to invigorate the scalp, but also to remove

the loose dead hair which is far better out of the head
150
than in it, for new hair grows from the roots of the hair

so removed.
In this process of "weeding-out," the fingers are
inserted in the hair, spread out like the ribs of a fan,

then closed together, holding the hair firmly between

them, and a pulling, extending motion then being given
them. Some authorities lay especial stress upon this

"weeding-out" of dead hair, and hold that if this exer-

cise is persisted in a fine strong full head of hair will

surely replace the head of weak hair which has been

weeded out. In this, however, as in other things,
remember that moderation and persistence pay.

Washing the Hair and Scalp. Here, again, the

authorities differ. Some advocate a weekly shampoo,
while others frown upon anything beyond a shampoo
at very long intervals. The truth, here as elsewhere,

seems to lie between the two extremes. It would seem

that every two weeks in some cases, and once a month,
in others, would be just about right —the difference

arising in the respective dryness of the hair of the

individuals, as well as its exposure to dust, etc. Use

a little common sense in this matter and do not overdo
the washings on the one hand nor make the shampoo
a "bugaboo" on the other.
The Shampoo. Any good toilet soap is suitable
for the shampoo, or you may make a shampoo liquid
by dissolving soap-chips in hot water. "Green Soap"
in solution is also very effective. Tar soap is also good,

especially when the dandruff is thick. There is no

151
use in spending money in fancy shampoo liquids, etc.,

as the same results may be obtained by the use of soap

solutions which you may make yourself. Some like
the white of egg shampoo, but there is no special virtue

in it.

How to Shampoo. Use hot water in the shampoo at

first; "lather" the head and rinse off; then lather again
and leave it on two or three minutes before cleaning
off with fresh -warm water; and finish the process with
an application of water cold enough to bring on a slight

reaction; then dry thoroughly. I use castile soap for

the first lather and a tiny bit of Birt's head wash for

the last. If my hair is very dirty from traveling I use

two castile "lathers" first, rubbing the soap cake gently
over the wet hair. Massage the scalp with the finger

ends during the shampoo. You will find an ordinary

bath-spray very useful and convenient in administer-
ing the shampoo. Be careful to get the hair thor-

oughly dry by the use of plenty of soft towels. Some

favor finishing up the drying by fanning it, but an
exposure to the sun is preferable. Both plans are
good. The hair should be thoroughly combed after

the shampoo, of course.

To make your hair stand out prettily around the
face dry it hanging over the face instead of down the
back. Lie face down across the bed and let the hair
drop over your face down on to a clean towel laid on
the floor. With the finger tips fluff the hair around
the face, rubbing the scalp briskly but lightly and with
152
short strokes. A maid can expedite the drying with
a palm leaf fan. When the hair is nearly dry comb it

down all aroimd, away from the crown, using the fingers
only, place round your head a large fluffy "rat" made
of tissue paper, pin your hair loosely together on top,

over the "rat," taking pains to arrange the front

prettily but loosely with the fingers only, and go about
your work in peace for an hour or two while the hair
dries thoroughly. If at this point you can make it

convenient to read or sew for an hour or two swinging

in the hammock in the sun your hair will take on new
life and gloss and grace that will delight you. When
very dry comb your hair out thoroughly with the fingers

before touching it with a comb. Use no brush after

this shampoo.
After the shampoo, it may be found that the hair
is too dry, and lacking in oil. If this is found to be
especially noticeable, it may be well to apply a very
small quantity of olive oil —not too much, but just a
trace, in order to impart softness and glossiness. A
mixture of three teaspoonfuls of castor oil to one pint
of alcohol, is recommended for this purpose by good
authorities. If the hair persists in oiliness or greasiness
even after normal shampooing a little plain alcohol,
sparingly applied, and rapidly wiped off, may be found
helpful, but it will not be needed if these directions are
followed. The use of borax in the water, or even
liquid ammonia, for this purpose, is not advised, as
these have the tendency to make the hair too dry and
153
brittle. Do not be afraid of a little natural oil in the
hair, for it is necessary for the health of the hair.
Dry Shampoo. Some favor the use of the dry-
shampoo, for several reasons, among which are (1)
the speedy process; (2) avoidance of a damp head in
cold weather; (3) easy application. Dry shampoos
are merely simple powders, such as cornstarch, orris
root, or corn meal, dusted in the head, and then re-

moved after the powder has taken up and absorbed the

oil and dust of the hair and scalp. I have known ordi-
nary talcum powder to be used in this way with good
results. The best way to apply the dry shampoo is to
dust it thoroughly into the hair, and then massage the
scalp thoroughly; then remove the powder by a good
vigorous brushing and shaking out. The hair will be
left quite fluffy, clean, and dry. There is no use in

wasting money buying fancy prepared dry shampoos,

as ordinary corn meal, cornstarch, or, better still, orris

root, will do as well. A trace of perfumed powder or

drop of extract, added, will render the shampoo powder
more agreeable. Of course, care should be taken to
thoroughly remove all the powder from the hair after
the process of shampooing with it.

The Hair at Night. I wish here to warn you against

allowing the hair to remain "put up" over night. This
course is apt to ruin the hair, and is, besides, not nice
or cleanly. The hair should be taken down at night,
well combed and brushed, the scalp massaged or the
hair pulled and "weeded out," and then put up into a
154
loose braid, or more than one braid if the hair be
abundant.
Hair Tonics. Beware of the hair tonics, many of
which are so widely advertised. A little alcohol and
castor oil (previously described) with a few drops of
perfumed oil added, will answer every purpose, and
will be much cheaper, and perhaps much safer. But
very little even of this is needed. Proper treatment
of the hair will stimulate it sufficiently, and the natural
oil is generally sufficient. The chief value of hair

tonics comes from the finger tips, not the bottle.

155
 chapter xix.

Hair Troubles.

I22ET us now consider a few troubles

that befall the hair of woman. And
in the consideration, let us learn
what may be done to remedy, cor-

rect, or cure the troubles referred to.

Falling Out of Hair. In the
first place, milady, you must not
regard as "lost hair" every hair
that drops from your head. Just
as the skin is constantly throwing
off worn-out scales, so does the
hair constantly throw off dead hairs, leaving the roots
still alive, fresh, and vigorous, from which will spring

new, fresh, live hairs, to take the place of the discarded

ones. Remember this, that every hair on the head

is "shed" sooner or later; and, in health, is replaced

by growing new hair, springing from the same roots.

It is only when the hair is noticed to be growing thinner,

that the falling-out process need concern you.
How Hair Becomes Thin. The failure of nature to
replace each discarded hair with a new fresh one, spring-
ing from the roots of the old, results from an unhealthy
condition, and requires treatment and attention. In
156
such cases, it will usually be found that the discarded
hair is being replaced by smaller and finer hairs, and
these by still smaller and finer, until at last the locks
become scanty and thin, or even baldness may result

in extreme cases. Thus, as you will see, it is important

to know the cause, as well as the remedy.
The Cause of Thinning Hair. Thinning of the hair
very often is the result of a decline in the general health.
In such cases, it should be your work to build up the
general physical condition, along the lines which I have
laid down in other chapters of this book. In other
cases, it is due to a general nervous condition, in which
case the remedy consists of building up the physical
system and acquiring mental poise and calm (see

Chapter XXI, regarding the mental aspects of the case).

Dandruff. In many cases, however, the cause of

falling hair is found to be the fact that the scalp is

covered by dandruff. In such cases, of course, the

remedy is plain — get after the dandruff. Dandruff,
as you know, is the presence on the scalp of a large
quantity of the discarded scarfskin scales of the scalp,
usually combined with the oil of the hair, and mixed
with the accumulated dust gathered by the hair. In
some cases there are large accumulations of dandruff
in oily lumps or cakes. But still more disagreeable
is the aggravated form in which hard cakes or scales are
formed.
How to Cure Dandruff. In the case of simple, plain
dandruff, it will usually be found to yield to shampoo-

157
ing, simple scalp massage, good brushing, etc. — in short,

to careful attention given the scalp and hair. The very-

oily dandruff may be removed by occasionally mixing a

small quantity of weak ammonia in the shampoo water,
and proceeding as described in Chapter XVIII; follow-
ing up with frequent thorough massaging.
The hard, scaly form of dandruff is believed to be

infectious, and has probably been acquired by the use

of the hairbrush of some person afflicted with it. It

requires careful attention in the direction of massage

and shampoos. In such cases tar soap or sulphur soap

will be found better than the ordinary shampoo soap.
It is also well to bathe the hair occasionally with alcohol,

which acts as an antiseptic. In case the alcohol seems

to make the hair too dry, you may add a little castor

oil to it (see directions in preceding chapter) which will

remedy this trouble. Rub the alcohol well into the

scalp, massaging it well into the skin.

But do not be frightened if you happen to have a

little dandruff, for every one has this; in fact, it is

perfectly natural for the tiny scales of scarfskin to be

constantly thrown off by the scalp— the only trouble

is when they multiply too rapidly, and are accom-
panied with the other troubles above mentioned.
Systematic cleanliness, shampoos, with daily brushing
or massage, will remedy the trouble and preserve
normal conditions.
Baldness. Baldness is far more common with men
than with women, the reason probably being that
158
women give more attention to the brushing and cleans-

ing of their hair than do men, the exercise and

massage thus obtained saving them from the troubles
of the men in this respect. The wearing of hats by-
men possibly is an additional cause of their special

liability to baldness. But, occasionally, women will

notice a tendency toward baldness, and they should

give the trouble their careful attention, by massaging
the scalp, "weeding out" the dead hair, brushing, etc.,

along the lines I have already mentioned.

Baldness due to dandruff may be cured by removing
the cause in time. But men
the ordinary baldness of
seems to defy cure. There are many remedies on the
market designed to bring back hair to bald heads, but
for the most part they are useless and worthless. A
fortune awaits the one who will discover or invent an
absolute cure for ordinary baldness.
Hair-Splitting. Some women are much troubled
by the splitting of the ends of their hair. This is held
to denote a poor condition of health on the part of the
hair. Massage of the scalp and general treatment for
dandruff will usually remove this trouble. The ends of
the split hairs should be carefully clipped. This trouble
sometimes arises from the hair having become too dry,
from too many shampoos. In such a case, the remedy is

plain — the addition of a little olive oil, or castor oil and

alcohol, to the hair, as I have mentioned several times
in this and the preceding chapter. Some advocate
singeing the ends of the hair to prevent this trouble,

159
but the best authorities generally agree that there is

nothing in it, in reality.

Hair Lice. This is not a pleasant subject, for the
presence of these vermin is generally associated with
uncleanliness and dirt. But these things will some-
times happen in the best of families, the trouble gener-
ally arising from the children of the family having
acquired the objectionable creatures from their school-
mates, and having then passed them on to the other
members of their own family. These creatures increase
very rapidly, and require immediate treatment. The
very best treatment, according to the best authorities,
consists of the application of tincture of larkspur to the
hair and scalp, at night and morning, for say three days.

Then, after a lapse of a few days, an additional applica-

tion may be made to destroy any "stray ones." This
is a simple, harmless, and very effective remedy, and it

is astonishing that so few persons seem to have heard of

it. It is well to remember this, as it is an embarrassment
to have to ask advice on the matter from the druggist
or physician; and in fact some other remedies which
might be suggested are far from pleasant and may even
prove harmful under some conditions. But, ugh! let

us change the subject.

Premature Grayness. That gray hair comes with
age is a fact that needs no special argument, although
many persons seem reluctant to believe it. Some per-

sons manage to avoid the gray hairs until quite ad-

vanced, but middle age generally brings some of the
160
"white threads" in the fabric. I am glad to note that
the one-time prejudice against gray and white hair is

disappearing, even among women. It is now being

admitted that gray hair is most becoming in many
cases; and, as people have ceased to grow old in the
former way, the gray hair is not now regarded as an
enemy by the average woman. The first few gray
hairs may give some worry but after a while the worry
passesaway and milady begins to study the effect of
the new color scheme that has come to her.
But premature gray hair is not pleasant and gener-
ally requires medical treatment as the causes are usually
found to lie in the general system rather than in the
hair or scalp themselves. Strong emotion, grief, con-
tinued worry, mental shock, anxiety, over-study, etc.,

are the more frequent causes of premature grayness.

I do not know of any real cure for gray hair; nor
is such known to the best authorities, according to their
own statements. The quacks and sellers of patent
nostrums offer many preparations claimed to restore
gray hair to its natural color; but I remain a doubting
Roxana in the matter. And I cannot say that I am
worried because of this fact.
When I look around me and see some of my dear
friends whose hair is not only gray but actually white,
and then see how becoming it is to them and how charm-
ingly they arrange the color schemes of their dress to
harmonize and blend in with the whitened hair, I must
confess that I do not look forward to the practically

161
 —

certain coming of the "silver threads among the gold"

in my own case, with any degree of fear or regret.
But even if I did not think it would be becoming to
me when it comes, I am sure that I shall be able to bear
it with equanimity, feeling sure that I shall be able to
grow into it with grace and with some degree of attrac-
tiveness, owing to my mental attitude in the matter.
It is not well to hate these things which are forced upon
us, and from which we cannot escape. It is far better

to learn to love the things for then we will harmonize

v. ith them, and they with us, and thus create a beauty
of their own. Inharmony never results in beauty

harmony is an essential of beauty. Remember that,

milady, and govern yourself accordingly.

Superfluous Hair. Superfluous hair, of course, is

hair out of place —that is, hair not wanted. This is a

source of great annoyance to many women, who often go
to great trouble and expense in order to get rid of the

trouble —too often without success. Strictly speaking

there is only one remedy for superfluous hair, that will

effect a permanent cure, and that is the electric needle,

or electrolysis. But this treatment is expensive,

troublesome, and more or less painful, and few care to

adopt it except in the case where the objectionable
hairs are but few in number. The majority of women
resort to some of the various depilatory pastes, powders,
or liquids, which are sold at all drug stores, the majority
of which are more or less dangerous, owing to their
liability to burn and blister sensitive skins. There is

162
 —

no drug known which will permanently remove hair

this is admitted by the best authorities, so look out for

the quack remedies ''infallible" which are offered at

a high price.
Simple Methods of Removing Hair. Many women
find more or less satisfaction and relief by removing the
objectionable hairs with a pair of small tweezers, when
they become too long; and in the meantime, applying
peroxide of hydrogen one day, and a weak solution of
ammonia the next, alternating the two each day. It

is claimed that by keeping this treatment up persistently,

for a period of six months to one year, the hairs will

become permanently weakened and will eventually die

and disappear. In the meantime, the hairs are bleached

and become less noticeable.

This last named remedy has been recommended by

good authorities, and I understand that many have
tried it with satisfactory results. I have never found
the need of it personally, so I cannot speak from experi-
ence in the matter. It seems reasonable though, but
it requires persistency, perseverance, and a dogged
tenacity though to carry it through for so long a time.
The average woman wants to get rid of the hairs at
once and permanently- but she cannot do this, and
must needs go about the mutter in some other way.
Here is another chance for some one to invent or dis-
cover a remedy, which would bring her in a fortune.
But no one seems to embrace the opportunity.
Coloring the Hair. I am utterly opposed to the

L63
 y

dyeing, coloring, or bleaching of the hair of the head,

and believe that the same is more or less unhealthy and
dangerous; and moreover, I fail to see any beaut
whatsoever in hair so treated. I may be narrow and
old-fashioned in this, but I have very strong feelings
on the subject. Therefore, milady, there shall be
nothing in this book along these lines, except to repeat
the celebrated advice of Punch, i. e., "Don't!"

164
 chapter xx.

The Eyes, Teeth, and Feet.

ffiHE Eyes. I shall not take up

your time and my space by repeat-
ing the familiar advice about not
overstraining the eyes by reading
by a poor light, etc. You should
already know that by heart. One
should never read, or do fancy
work, in the bright glare of the sun,
or directly facing the light. The
light should always come over the
left shoulder, and should never be
dim, flickering, or "jumpy." Reading on the train
is, of course, also bad.
The Eyecup. Every woman who wishes to care
for her eyes should own a little eyecup, which is made
of glass, and which may be obtained at the druggist's

for five or ten cents. It is used for applying soothing

washes to the eye. It is used by placing a little of

the wash in the cup, and then pressing the cup
lightly around the eye-space, so that none of the
wash can escape, the head then being tilted back,
and the eye opened and shut, or winked slowly, dur-
165
ing the bathing process. You will never be willing
to give up the little eyecup, once you have used it.

Eyewashes. Do not waste your money in buying

expensive eyewashes, for you can do just as well by
using simple materials without paying for the fancy
labels and advertising bills. A little powdered boracic
acid dissolved in water, with a little rosewater added,
makes the ideal eyewash. You can prepare it your-
self, or else obtain it already prepared from the druggist,
at a nominal price. It is used with the eyecup and
will relieve strained, tired eyes and impart a natural
brightness to them. It also is excellent for use in the

case of inflamed eyelids, etc. Some favor the " camphor

wash," made by dissolving one grain of borax in two
ounces of camphor water. The English women favor
bathing the eyes in weak, cold tea.
Many old-time mothers in this country advise
their daughters to use a mild solution of plain table
salt in water and if one does not mind the smarting
she will surely secure a bright, fresh eye from this
wash.
In case the eyeballs feel sore and tired, from over-
work or otherwise, the application of a cloth saturated

in hot water, placed over the closed eyelids, will help;

in this case the hot water should be renewed when it

begins to cool off, care being taken, of course, not to

use water hot enough to scald the eyelids. This last

remedy will speedily remove the bad effects of weep-

ing —something that every woman should know, for
166
tears will often come to the best of us, absurd though

the causes of them often are.

Eye Massage. A little very gentle massage of the

eyeball (given over the closed lids, of course) will tend

to strengthen them and to relieve "that tired feeling."

Bagginess under the eyes, as well as the little wrinkles
that often come near the outer corner of the eyes, may
be relieved by a gentle massage, using the tips of the
fingers, and massaging away from the nose always,
never towards it. In massaging the eyeballs, reverse
the movement — rub gently toward the nose, which
tends to correct flattening of the eyeballs and con-
sequent far sight.
Cinders, etc. Never rub the eye in which a cinder
has lodged; but always rub the other eye, which causes
the cindered eye to water in sympathy and thus dis-

lodge the offending material. Rubbing the affected

eye may result in pressing the cinder into the eye or lid,

and thus make the removal difficult. Use the boracic

acid solution, in the eyecup, after the cinder is removed,
as it will remove the soreness. A medicine dropper
may often be used with good effect in removing cinders
from the eyelids, by drawing them out by suction along
with the fluids that have formed. A little pointed
roll of very soft paper, also, may prove useful.
Eyebrows and Eyelashes. The eyebrows may be
kept in the best condition by the use of an eyebrow

brush which may be obtained from any druggist at a

nominal price. lis soft bristles will not irritate the

167
hair roots, but will tend to smooth down and render
generally attractive this important feature of the face.
A very small portion of olive oil (perfumed if you desire)

may be used not oftener than once a day, smoothing

out the eyebrow away from the nose in applying it.

Scanty Eyebrows and Lashes. Scanty eyebrows may

be corrected by a system of daily gentle massage, using
a little olive oil, and massaging away from the nose.

Use tweezers to remove occasional too-long hairs in the

eyebrows, or hair over the root of the nose, if too prom-

inent. Eyelashes, if too scanty or thin, may be
strengthened and stimulated into growth by a gentle
massage of the edges of the eyelids, using a little olive

oil. Avoid the use of "eyelash growers" containing

cantharides, as the same may injure the eye if any of

the preparation should get into it.

Curling Eye Lashes. Using the eyebrow brush for

the eyelashes, by brushing them upward from the under-
side, will encourage their growth and will give them an
attractive little upward curl.

The Teeth. I trust that it is not necessary for me to

do more than merely remind my readers that the teeth
must not be neglected. In these days of dental hygiene
more should be unnecessary. There are two general
rules for the care of the teeth, viz.: (1)Keep the teeth
clean by brushing night and morning, and perhaps
after each meal; and (2) have your teeth examined by
a dentist at least once every six months, having every
tooth attended to the moment you are aware of any
168
trouble with it. I might add a third one, namely (3)
chew your food well; for this is nature's own way of
keeping the teeth in good condition.
Brushing the Teeth. In brushing the teeth give the
brush an "up and down" motion, rather than brushing
them across. (The druggist will show you tooth
brushes especially adapted to this motion.) This
motion removes the particles of food from between the
teeth, whereas the customary "across" motion does
not. Also be sure to brush the inside surface of the
teeth, as well as the outer one; the faces of the back
teeth also require attention.
Do not use too stiff a toothbrush, as such often
injures the gums. Choose the "medium" variety
unless your gums are extremely tender, in which case
the very soft brush should be used. Rinse out the
mouth after each brushing; a few additional rinses
during the day will not hurt you any and is a good
habit to acquire. Use only a good standard tooth
powder.
Bad Breath: Its Cause and Cure. Careful cleaning
of the teeth will prevent bad breath from that source;
but in many cases bad breath arises from the stomach.
Keeping the colon clean, and drinking the proper
amount of water (see other chapters of this book) will

do much to correct this trouble; but if it persists you

might try using a small pinch of bicarbonate of soda
(ordinary baking soda) in a wineglass of water, taken in

the morning, occasionally; or, if preferred, after meals.

10!)
 The Dentist. But, last, as well as first, keep on
good terms with your dentist; that is, have your teeth
examined at least every six months, and have every
defective tooth and your gums attended to at the first

signs of trouble. This will prove the cheapest in the

long run and will save you much annoyance besides.

The Feet. I suppose that it is folly for me to preach

the usual sermon regarding the evil effects of improper
shoes, and to advise rational habits in this respect —no
one will heed me, so I shall refrain from delivering the
usual discourse. But I will say, milady, try to use at
least a little common sense in the matter of the selection

of your shoes for there is nothing beautiful in a cramped

foot and a lame gait, no matter how beautiful the shoe
may be in itself. For myself, I have solved the problem
after years of painful experience, by wearing "ground
gripper" shoes for all purposes except dancing.
Footbaths. A frequent footbath is not only soothing
and refreshing to the poor tired feet, but is also bene-

ficial to the general health of the foot. Moreover, the

foot is an important excretory center, and by keeping
its pores clear, clean, and free, the waste matter of the
system is removed, and the general complexion is

benefited thereby. A good footbath, to be used every

night, is composed of water heated until it becomes
"almost hot," in which is dissolved a small quantity of
boracic acid (powdered). This boracic acid may be
obtained from your druggist, in large packages at a
small cost, and is quite a useful thing to have around

170
the house. Let the feet soak for five minutes, and then
wash off in a cooler water; finishing with a good brisk
rubbing with a bath towel. Many favor finishing off

the rubbing by the thorough rubbing in of, and massag-

ing with, ordinary cold cream.
Shoes and Stockings. A change of shoes tends to
relieve the tired foot, so, if your purse permits, have
changes of shoes. This is good for the shoes as well

as for the feet, for two pairs of shoes worn alternately

will last much longer than two pairs worn in the ordinary
way, and the feet will also relish the change. Change
the stockings every day, even if you have to wash them
out every night in a bowl. See that your stockings fit

neither too large nor too small; and avoid coarsely

darned stockings, if possible.

Toe Nails, Corns, and Bunions. Keep the toe nails

as carefully trimmed as those of the hand. Visit the

chiropodist occasionally and have the corns and bunions

kept away, or at least in check. Use a little corn safety
razor for cutting corns, and be sure it is sterilized in

peroxide of hydrogen or alcohol. Beware of too narrow

toes in your shoes. A piece of pumice stone will often

keep down young corns, and will remove calloused

places on the foot, if used just after the footbath.
Excessive Perspiration of Feet. A clean colon will
domucli bo relieve the offensive or excessive perspiration

feet, for reasons we J'. mentioned in other

chapters of this book. The ordinary footbath (pre-

cribed) will also go a great way to per-

171
manently remove the same. But if you have a very
obstinate case, you will find it beneficial to powder into
your stocking, or shoe, a little powdered boracic acid
every morning, or whenever you change your shoes.
This will also tend to render the feet firm and healthy.
Many of the widely advertised foot powders are no
more effective than the plain boracic acid, though
costing much more.

172
 chapter xxi.

Thought and Beauty.

|0, milady, this is not a sermon on
Christian Science or New Thought,
although the practices arising from
the teachings of both of those bodies
of thinkers have been found con-
ducive to an improvement in per-

sonal appearance by many of the

thousands who have applied them
in that direction. But this is no
place to enter into metaphysical
theorizing or philosophical discourses
and I must leave these things for others to discuss,

pro and con.

Mind and Body. Notwithstanding what I have
just said, I still feel justified in adding this chapter on
the influence of Thought upon Beauty, and this upon
strict psychological and physiological grounds — upon
scientific facts. Every advanced authority upon
psychology or physiology of late years has freely
acknowledged the wonderful effects of the mental states
and emotions upon the secretions of the body and upon
the general health or ill health of the individual. It is

known that many of the secretions of the body, .such as

173
the perspiration, the saliva, the gastric juices, the bile,

the tears, the milk, etc., are directly, powerfully, and

actively affected by strong feelings, or strong mental
images, —this not only in the case of human beings,
but also in the cases of the lower animals. These facts

are too well established by careful scientific experiments

to need any argument here.

Emotion and Appearance. Again, it is within the

experience of every observing person that the outer
form and expression of human beings are powerfully
influenced by mental states, feelings, and emotions.
For instance, who would dispute the fact that the happy,
contented woman manifests in her outward expression
her inner feelings? Or, on the other hand, that the
depressed, unhappy, worried woman shows the char-
acter of her thoughts and feelings in the lines of her face,

the expression of her eyes, the set of her mouth, and,

in fact, in her general physical appearance? The
woman who loves and is loved, is a far different looking
woman from the one who is not experiencing that deep
joy of woman's nature. But why multiply illustra-
tions? Every one knows that these facts are so.

Mental Pictures. But comparatively few have

pursued the matter to its logical conclusion, and have
discovered by study or experience that the general
mental attitude and ideals of a person are infallibly

reflected in her countenance. That is to say, that a

mental picture in the mind of a person tends toward
an expression along the same general lines in her face

174
and form. The woman who carries in her " mind's

eye" the picture of a beautiful womanly form and face,

is setting to work hidden psychic forces which will tend

to rebuild her face and form according to the model
held in the inner mind. Just as the ancient Greeks
surrounded prospective mothers with beautiful statuary
to the end that the beautiful lines might be reproduced
in the bodies of the forming babes, so are many women
to-day successfully rebuilding their forms and features
by holding an inner ideal of beauty. This is no fanciful

extreme statement but a fact known to the most

advanced students of the subject and to many who
have successfully tried this plan. It is true that the

rebuilding is slow, but it is sure. Is this not worth

trying?
Thought and Beauty. From what we have said,

you may see that there is an intimate relation between

thought and beauty, both in the direction of improving
one 's complexion by means of maintaining a happy and
cheerful state of mind, and thus favorably affecting the

secretions of the body; and also in the direction of

influencing nature in forming the lines of the body and

the face along the lines of an inner idealistic pattern.
Therefore I strongly advise every woman to cultivate
the emotional and imaginative sides of her mental
nature, so as to throw on the screen of her face and
body the beautiful mental pictures of form and feeling

which she is holding in her mind.

Self-Treatments by Mind Power. And while I am on
175
this subject I may venture to go so far as to indicate
the effect of mental states upon physical conditions in
a few specific instances, which may be applied by such
of my readers who may need assistance of this kind.
I refer to the undoubted power of command over
certain functions and organs which the mind and will

certainly possess. Let me give you a few typical

examples:
In the first place, I know from my own experience
and that of many of my friends that the use of the mind
is a valuable aid in the breaking up of constipation and
the establishing of correct and regular habits of the
bowels in place thereof.
It will often be found that after the colon is cleaned
and cleared and the proper amount of water is partaken
of and the constipated habits removed there still exists

a reluctance of the bowels to move regularly and sys-

tematically. In such a case, select an hour early in

the morning, most convenient to you, say seven o 'clock
in the morning; then fix the hour "seven o'clock,"
firmly in your mind, and frequently think of the same,

and even repeat it to yourself, thusly: "My bowels

will move freely, and naturally, at seven o'clock to-

morrow morning," repeating this several times each time

you say it. Form the mental picture of your having

relief at seven o'clock the following morning, and try
to believe in your statement. At the appointed hour,
go to the closet, whether or not you feel any inclination,
and assist nature by your mental expectation. In
176
many cases the answer will come even at the first trial;

in others, several trials are necessary; but I will venture

to say that in all cases, if the experiment is persisted
with in the right spirit, the desired conditions will come
about in a short time.
In cases of chronic constipation, there is apt to have
developed an unnatural tightness of the rectum and
anus. If so, carry the thought, and utter the word
"Relax!" (repeated several times) vigorously, placing
the hand on the indicated part of the body, and trying
to form a mental picture of Relaxation of the muscles
involved. At the same time, try to feel the sensation
of relaxation in your mind — a sensation of "letting go"
or "expanding," and "freedom from tightness" in the
parts in question. This practice will result in produc-
ing a new habit and in causing the old strained habit to
disappear. These are not imaginings, but scientific

facts, good sister.

In the same way, the mental picture of strong

uterine muscles, firmly holding up the womb and support-
ing it properly, if persisted in with spirit and determina-
tion, has often caused a corresponding relief and even
absolute cure, in the case of women who have suffered

for years from falling of the womb and similar instances

of weakened support.
Again, painful menstruation has been cured, or at
least greatly improved, by the same method indicated
in the cure of constipation; i. e., the idea of freeness,
ease, relaxed condition, etc., being carried in mind and
177
uttered in word. Paint the mental picture of what
you want, and express the command on your own words,
and see what happens! It is a scientific fact that many
women have cured irregular menstruation by marking
ahead a month, on a calendar, their regular day, and
then each day looking steadily at the calendar and
deliberately counting the days that must elapse, each

day being one step nearer the marked day; and at the
same time confidently feeling that that "day of days"
would bring the desired happening. It takes a little

time in some cases, but persistence will win out in most

instances. Is it not worth trying, suffering woman-
kind?
Controlling the Emotions. I also again recommend
the reading of that valuable little book of Elizabeth
Towne's, called "Just How to Wake the Solar Plexus"
(Elizabeth Towne Company, Holyoke, Mass.) in which
is given a number of means of controlling the emotions
by means of mental images and breath-control. Mrs.
Towne is a sane, sound thinker, and a powerful and
clear writer, and knows what she means to say, and
then says it forcibly and in a way that you will not for-
get. She is eminently practical, sensible, and tells

"how to do" things as well as explaining the "why"

of the thing.

A Secret of the Orient. While on the subject of

breathing and emotion, let me tell you the secret of the

Orientals who use the breath in this manner. The

secret is this: Emotional states always affect the
178
 —

rhythm of the breath; its frequency; its strength; its

duration. This you will admit if you think a moment.

There is the slow sighing breath of grief; the panting
breath of anger; the gasping breath of fear; and so on.
Well, the Orientals, years and years ago — centuries
ago — discovered that if man would learn to control his

breath, he could control his emotions; and that, for

instance, it was impossible for one to be fearful if he

would but prevent a "fear breath"; or angry if he
would cut off the " anger breath." See? Simple, isn't
it? And well worth trying.
Fletcher has told us that if one will master Fear and
Anger, one may remain perfectly well poised and calmly
serene. Therefore, if one can inhibit the fear breath
and the anger breath, and substitute therefor the
breath of calmness and serenity, one will have solved
the secret of poise. And poise is bound to reflect in
beauty, is it not?
I think I will leave the subject right at this point,

so as to induce you to do a little thinking along these

lines, on your own account. It will do you good.
Another Little Secret. Oh, yes! I came near forget-
ting —there is one thing more I wish to say to you, and
that is: Study the most beautiful woman you know
the one you would most like to resemble —study her
until you can feel like her, that is, catch the keynote of her

inner feeling (do you get my meaning?) and then try

to manifest that feeling in the form of a predominant
mental attitude — mental picture, or image, as it were
179
and, in the course of time, do not be surprised to find
that the mental picture is beginning to reproduce itself

in outward form and that Your Ideal is Becoming

Real in your own face and form.
No, that's all! I am not going to tell you another
thing about this secret. It will be far better for you to
work it out for yourself, in your own experience —then
it will be well worth while, for you will have earned
your reward under the Law of Compensation. And
so, Auf Wiedersehen!

180
 BOOKS by
WILLIAM WALKER ATKINSON
MEMORY; HOW TO DEVELOP, TRAIN, AND
USE IT. A course of 20 Lessons on Memory Power
Training, complete in one volume. Tells how to
remember names, dates, faces; how to memorize
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Price, $1.00.

HOW TO READ HUMAN NATURE ; ITS INNER

STATES AND OUTER FORMS. How to judge
character ; how the eyes, the nose, the walk, the
manners of a man reveal his character. book A
where one comes
for use in the daily business life
in contact with men, women, and children. 202
pages, cloth binding, title in gold. Price, $1.00.

THE MASTERY OF BEING. Cloth bound, half-

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YOUR MIND AND HOW TO USE IT. Uniform

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THE PSYCHOLOGY OF SALESMANSHIP. Cloth

bound, 224 pages, stamped in gilt. Price, $1.00,
postpaid.

MIND AND BODY; OR, MENTAL STATES

AND PHYSICAL CONDITIONS. Cloth bound,
210 pages, stamped in gilt. Price, $1.00, postpaid.

THE MESSAGE OF THE NEW THOUGHT.

Bound in artistic paper cover, 36 pages. Price, 25
cents, postpaid.
Address, THE ELIZABETH TOWNE CO.,
HOLYOKE, MASS.
 SELF-HELP BOOKS
By ELIZABETH TOWNE
PRACTICAL METHODS FOR SELF-DEVELOP-
MENT, SPIRITUAL, MENTAL, PHYSICAL.
160 pages, cloth. Price, $1.00.
THE LIFE POWER AND HOW TO USE IT. 176
pages, cloth. Price, $1.00.
LESSONS IN LIVING. The latest book by Mrs.
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JOY PHILOSOPHY. 75 large pages, cloth. Price,
$1.00.
YOU AND YOUR FORCES ; OR, THE CONSTI-
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"
HOW TO GROW SUCCESS. 71 pages, strong paper
covers. Price, 50 cents.
EXPERIENCES IN SELF-HEALING. Price, 50
cents.
HAPPINESS AND MARRIAGE. Treats of the
everyday problems of married life and tells how to
solve them successfully. Price, 50 cents.
JUST HOW TO WAKE THE SOLAR PLEXUS.
Paper bound. Price, 25 cents. German transla-
tionby Bondegger. Price, 30 cents.
JUST HOW TO CONCENTRATE. Paper. Price,
25 cents.
HOW TO TRAIN CHILDREN AND PARENTS.
Paper. Price, 25 cents. German translation by
Bondegger. Price, 30 cents.
JUST HOW TO COOK MEALS WITHOUT MEAT.
Paper. Price, 25 cents.
YOUR CHARACTER, by Elizabeth Towne and
Catherine Struble Twing. 96 pages. Price, 75
cents.
Order of THE ELIZABETH TOWNE CO.,
HOLYOKE, MASS.
 BOOKS by
WALLACE D. WATTLES
THE SCIENCE OF GETTING RICH. Every word
of this book was written for the man or woman
who needs tomake money. It is for those who
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metaphysics, but who are willing to take the con-
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It is expected the reader will prove the truth of
the statements made in the book by acting upon
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proved the truth of his ideas by increasing his
earnings to $3,000 in a year. Within a year after
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NEW SCIENCE OF LIVING AND HEALING.

Bound in Rhododendron, 100 pages. Price, 50 cents.

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THE NEW CHRIST. Paper, 55 pages. Price, 25

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Address, THE ELIZABETH TOWNE CO.,
HOLYOKE, MASS.
 THE NAUTILUS
is a monthly efficiency tonic for mind, body, and
business. It is recognized as the leading magazine
of the New Though t and mental healing movement.
It deals dynamically with practical subjects con-
nected with everyday living.
ITS EDITOR is ELIZABETH TOWNE, whose edi-

torials,which are part of the magazine monthly,

are said to have the largest number of readers of
any woman's writings in America, with one pos-
sible exception.

ITS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS include Edwin

Markham, Orison Swett Marden, Dr. Edward
B. Warman, William Walker Atkinson, Horatio
W. Dresser, Thomas Dreier, and many others.
Each number of Nautilus contains two or three
beautiful original poems.

ITS DEPARTMENTS are contributions to and from

its readers. They are of remarkable interest. In
Things That Make For Success,
'
'
' ' a monthly prize
is offered to subscribers for the best letter on suc-
cess,and every six months $5.00 in cash is given to
the author of the best success letter published
during that period. In "Family Counsel," the
most popular department, Elizabeth Towne an-
swers questions from subscribers.
NAUTILUS is handsomely printed, covers in two
colors, illustrated with original drawings and half-
tones. Subscription, $1.50 per year. Address,

THE ELIZABETH TOWNE CO.,

HOLYOKE, MASS.

5lo 0*0
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