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Study of handle and comfort properties of poly- Khadi, handloom and

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Article in Man-Made Textiles in India · October 2011

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 Study of Handle and Comfort
Properties of Poly- Khadi,
Handloom and Powerloom
Fabrics
K. N. Chatterjee, D. Das, Kavita
The Technological Institute of Textile & Sciences, Bhiwani
and
R. K. Nayak RMIT, Australia

Khadi is more comfortable than corresponding handloom and power

loom fabrics. The handle properties of the khadi fabrics are enhanced
by imparting softener finish on the fabric. For the study, the fabric
samples were prepared by using 100% cotton fiber belonging to three
different groups. First group was of Khadi fabric which is a hand-
woven fabric using handspun yarns as weft. Second group was of
handloom fabric which is hand-woven fabric using mill-made
polyester-cotton yarns. The third group was of power loom fabric
made on power loom by using mill-made polyester-cotton yarns and
the properties such as bending length, flexural rigidity, crease
recovery, air permeability, wickability etc. were measured. Air-
permeability values found to be higher for the fabrics made of khadi
yarns followed by handloom and powerloom fabrics. Khadi fabrics
showed lower bending length values followed by handloom and
powerloom fabrics. After softener treatment, khadi fabrics showed
reduced air-permeability values. Similar trend was observed for water
vapour permeability, bending length and wickability values. The
values further decreased with increase in softener concentration.
Thermal resistance and crease recovery values increased with
increase in concentration of softener.

Introduction absorption, heat transmission and skin perception[1].

Comfort is considered as a fundamental property when a Some fabrics are very much comfortable due to their
textile product is valued. The comfort is defined as "the peculiar fabric and yarn structure. 'Khadi' is one of them. It
absence of un-pleasantness or discomfort" or "a natural is a well known comfortable fabric. Finishing of any textile
state compared to the mere active state of pleasure". The material is largely dictated by consumer preference. With
comfort characteristics of fabrics mainly depend on the the advent of globalization, there is a definite need for India
structure, type of raw materials, wet weight, moisture to improve its traditional textiles in order to establish

304 October 2011 • Man-made Textiles in India 351

specific brand identity in the international market. There is a Khadi sector in India speaks volumes about its importance
tremendous competition in the textile market between the in the Country's Economy.
mill-made or power loom made fabrics versus hand woven
Present scenario of Khadi production and sales
fabrics. The annual reports of Khadi and handloom sector
present a sorrowful picture of piling up of stocks. Consumer Spindles installed 2.18 million
preference for hand woven products failed to stand for the Yarn Produced 25.91 million kgs
glittering attractions of mill-made textiles. Due to the no-
serious efforts made to improve the fabric quality by way of Looms installed 1,33,270 nos.
pretreatments and finishing, their hand woven and Khadi Employment 14.97 lakhs
fabrics face non-preference compared to international
Total Production 111.49 million sq.mtrs
consumer preference towards synthetic. So, an attempt is
made in this direction to enhance performance of khadi by Sales Rs.581.20 crores
finishing.
Today in textile sector the main sub-sectors are Khadi and
KHADI : The fabric textile mills. Its versatility is what makes it a renowned
Khadi - The Hand-woven cotton fabric made from fabric, not only in India but in the international level also[2, 3].
handspun yarn from natural fibers like cotton, silk, and The small scale industries engaged in manufacturing of
woolen. Khadi derives its distinctiveness from a single khadi gets economic redemption for the raw materials and
process: hand-spinning. The pure cotton collected from production costs by Indian government. According to a
cotton farms are first ginned and made into rolls of bales recent survey done it provides employment to 14.97 lakhs
of 160-175 kgs. These bales are then converted into roving. of people, the total annual production of khadi is 111.49
The Roving thus obtained are distributed to different million sq. mtrs[4].
spinning units. In the spinning units, the cotton fiber is Comfort
converted into yarns manually by using charkas. The yarns
are then woven into fabrics using handlooms. It is the The term comfort is a nebulous one, which defines
processing of cotton fiber into yarn by human hands that definition, but the sensation of comfort is easily recognized
has endowed the fabric with its multiple guises and varied by the person experiencing it. Many attempts have been
appeal. Hand spinning lends Khadi its defining material made, without success as yet, to define the state in
character. Hand-spun cotton yarns, when woven by hand, physical terms. Bekesius[5] has surveyed the literature and
yield, at their best, a cloth whose comfort level defines it as 'the absence of unpleasantness or discomfort
unsurpassed. Since Khadi deals in natural fibers viz. cotton, 'or' a natural state compared to the more active state of
silk and wool only, spun and woven in natural environment, pleasure' originally made by authors over twenty years
it can boast of being 100% natural. But polyester-khadi is earlier. Fourt and Hollies[6] carried out an even more
also available which is made from the blend of cotton and extensive survey, incorporating all the literature relating to
polyester yarns. The various khadi fabrics available are: comfort that they could find, and again did not provide an
objective definition of comfort. Rodwell[7] state that comfort
• Cotton khadi fabrics: Having a smooth finish, these
is influenced by the physiological reactions of the wearer,
cotton khadi fabrics, khadi cloth are soft, durable and
but Yaglou[8] suggest that a satisfactory physical definition
comfortable and extensively used to manufacture
pessimism, the subject has aroused much interest in recent
variety of garments.
years, and several authors have attempted to connect
• Silk khadi fabrics: In khadi silk, the ratio of khadi and comfort with clothing. There is general agreement that the
silk fabric is 50:50. This fabric requires dry cleaning. It movement of heat and water vapour through a garment are
shrinks about 3% after the first wash. It is quite an probably the most important factors in clothing comfort,
expensive fabric. Khadi silk provides a royal and rich and Rees[9] describes the temperature regulation of the
look. body in order to define the system in which comfort must be
• Woolen khadi fabrics: Prepared by mixing khadi and maintained. Greenwood[1]0 approaches the problem of
wool together, is used in making various types of describing comfort by attempting to provide a common
clothing like blankets, shawls, jackets, tweeds, coats, language, understood by textile producers, physiologists,
gowns, and loies. and users which test results, conditions of use and
• Poly khadi fabrics: these are manufactured from poly measures of comfort performance obtained. Best-
khadi mixed with khadi thread. This fabric is Gordon[11] attempts to relate fiber type and fabric
manufactured in white color and can treat for various construction to comfort, but his discussion is presented
shades of colors. The clothing made from this fabric only in the most general terms. Fanger[12] discusses the
are ladies suits, shirts, bags, bed-sheets, dhotis, effect of physiological and environmental conditions on
jackets and kurta pajamas. comforts in attempt to define comfort in clinical terms.

352 October 2011 • Man-made Textiles in India 305

Factors affecting comfort Specification for khadi, handloom and powerloom fabric
samples
Fabric properties depend on fiber properties, yarn structure,
fabric structure and the mechanical and chemical finishing Ref. Fabric Warp Weft EPI PPI Weave
treatments given to it. Of the various fiber properties: fiber no. type count count
type, fineness, cross-shape crimp, length, percentage of F1 Khadi 2/20s P/C 2/30s 44 40 Plain
crystalline and amorphous region and surface properties
F2 Khadi 2/20s P/C 2/30s 44 40 Twill
are extremely important. For a given set of fiber properties,
yarn characteristics are governed by its structure. Type of F3 Khadi 2/20s P/C 2/30s 44 40 Satin
yarn like filament yarn, textured yarn, spun yarn produced F4 Handloom 2/20s P/C 2/30s 44 40 Plain
on different spinning systems, twist level unevenness, and
F5 Handloom 2/20s P/C 2/30s 44 40 Twill
hairiness of yarn have significant influence on comfort and
other properties of fabric. Fabric structure includes yarn F6 Handloom 2/20s P/C 2/30s 44 40 Satin
linear densities, sett, weave, crimp levels, and can influence F7 Powerloom 2/20s P/C 2/30s 44 40 Plain
such critical fabric properties as cover, thickness, bulk F8 Powerloom 2/20s P/C 2/30s 44 40 Twill
density, mechanical and surface behavior which have direct
F9 Powerloom 2/20s P/C 2/30s 44 40 Satin
relation with fabric comfort. Finishes which affect the
properties of the fabrics and appearance, can also Weaving parameters
significantly change the performance of a fabric in clothing.
Loom : Sample Loom
Fabric properties, together with the garment design and
size influence the various garment properties[15]. Clothing Speed, rpm : 120
comfort can be classified into three groups: Psychological, Reed space, inch : 60
Tactile, and Thermal comfot[18, 19]. Tactile comfort is also Weave : Plain, 2/1 Twill & Satin
directly related to the fabric handle. There is quite a
E.P.I. : 44
difference in fabric handle preferences from individual to
individual due to differences in their cultural background P.P.I. : 40
and/or climatic differences and some times preferences These samples were analyzed for their comfort and handle
may even be opposite[20]. Thermal comfort is related to the properties and the effect of changing the constructional
fabric's ability to maintain skin temperature and allow parameters over these fabric samples was checked.
transfer of perspiration produced from the body. Four
properties are suggested as critical for thermal comfort of a
Material specifications for khadi fabric
clothed body: thermal resistance, air permeability, water The fabrics used in the study were 100% cotton khadi
vapor permeability and liquid water permeability. Comfort, fabrics procured from the Khadi Gramudyog in grey state.
in the end, is the psychological feeling, or judgment of a Three fabrics with grey GSM 160, 190 and 220 gm/100 cm2
wearer, under certain combinations of physical activities were selected. The fabric specifications are as given below:
and environmental conditions. The generation of such
Samples Warp count Weft count EPI PPI Thickness
feeling or judgment, however, involves a number of complex
cotton
processes [22].
160K 24 10 64 34 1.02
Materials & Method 190K 18 8 44 32 1.08
Experimental plan: 220K 20 4 46 28 1.15
The experiment was planned in two parts. First dealing with
The samples were first desized, scoured and then finished
analysis of comfort and handle properties of fabrics from
with silicon softener taken in three different concentrations.
Khadi, Handloom, Powerloom sectors and the second
The effect of varying concentration of softener on various
about the effect of softener finish on khadi fabric for daily
comfort properties of khadi was studied.
use.
Process flow-chart for khadi:
Sample Preparation of fabrics from khadi, handloom, power
loom sectors
Samples
The samples were prepared by using 2/20s warp as P/C
(65:35) and weft 100% cotton fiber belonging to three
Desizing
different groups. First group was of Khadi fabric which is a
hand-woven fabric by using handspun yarns. Second group
was of handloom fabric which is hand-woven fabric from Scouring
mill yarns. The third group was of power loom fabric made
on power loom by using mill spun yarns. Softener application

October 2011 • Man-made Textiles in India 353

Fabric Assessment Methods • Plain woven fabrics exhibit higher thickness values than
• Fabric weight twill and satin be due to:
• Yarn count, EPI, PPI • More number of intersections per repeat
• Fabric thickness • Smaller repeat size.
• Air permeability • More compact structure.
• Bending length
Fabric Weight
• Crease recovery
• Water vapour permeability GSM
700
• Thermal resistance
600
• Wickability 500
Satin
400
Results and Discussion:

GSM
Twill
300
Plain
Analysis of handle and comfort properties of fabrics 200

made from khadi, handloom and power loom sectors- 100

0
The values of some handle and comfort properties of khadi, Khadi Handloom Powerloom
handloom and power loom fabrics are given below Table Fabric Type
Air Bending
Thickness CRA Flexural Rigidity
Ref. no. Fabric Type Weave EPI PPI GSM permeability Length
(m3/m2/min)
(mm) (°)
(mm)
(mg/cm) Fig. 3: Effect of Fabric Type on GSM
Warp Weft Warp Weft
F1 Khadi Plain 44 40 205 250 1.08 187 1.95 1.75 39.975 35.875 * The results are in agreement with the findings of Nayak
F2 Khadi Twill 44 40 193 259 0.99 175 2.26 1.98 43.61 38.21
F3 Khadi Satin 44 40 177 266 0.95 160 2.87 2.09 50.799 36.99
R. K.
F4 Handloom Plain 44 40 192 240 0.95 154 2.30 2.10 44.16 40.32
F5 Handloom Twill 44 40 186 248 0.90 143 2.45 2.15 45.57 39.99
• Khadi fabric shows a little higher values of GSM than
F6 Handloom Satin 44 40 178 256 0.73 137 3.25 3.20 57.85 56.96 handloom and powerloom fabrics due to
F7 Powerloom Plain 44 40 194 194 0.93 152 2.65 2.30 51.41 44.61
F8 Powerloom Twill 44 40 180 203 0.84 130 3.00 2.50 54.00 45.00 • Thicker yarns used in khadi.
F9 Powerloom Satin 44 40 172 218 0.72 123 3.92 3.70 67.42 63.64

Effect of weave on GSM

Thickness
210
3.5
3 200
Thickness (mm)

2.5 190
Khadi
Satin
GSM

2 180 Handloom
Twill
1.5 Powerloom
Plain 170
1
160
0.5
150
0
Plain Twill Satin
Khadi Handloom Powerloom
Weave type
Fabric type

Fig. 1: Effect of Fabric Type on Thickness 3.1: Effect of Weave Type on GSM
• Fabrics show decreasing trend in thickness values from • Plain woven fabrics are heavier than twill and satin
khadi to powerloom may be due to following: woven due to:
• Low twisted hand spun yarn used in khadi. • More no. of intersections in plain weave.
• Low beat-up force in hand weaving • More effective length of yarn in fabric.
Effect of weave on Thickness Air permeability
1.2
Air-permeability
1 900
Air-permeability (m3/m2/min)
Thickness (mm)

800
0.8
Khadi 700
0.6 Handloom 600
Powerloom 500 Satin
0.4
400 Twill
0.2 Plain
300
0 200
Plain Twill Satin 100
Weave type 0
Khadi Handloom Powerloom
Fig. 2: Effect of Weave Type on Thickness Fabric type

* The results are in agreement with the findings of David

Fig. 4: Effect of Fabric Type on Air Permeability
Cripps (1)

354 October 2011 • Man-made Textiles in India

Khadi fabrics show comparatively higher values of air- • Crease recovery values of plain woven fabrics are
permeability than handloom and power loom due to: higher than the twill and satin woven fabric due to:
• Bigger pore size. • Higher no. of intersections per repeat for a given
• Non uniform pore distribution through out the area. sett.
• More stretching of fibers and yarns on creasing.
Effect of weave on Air-permeability
Bending Length & Flexural Rigidity
300
Air-permeability (m3/m2/min)

250
Warp Bending length
200 12
Khadi
150 Handloom

Bending length (mm)

10
Powerloom
100
8
50
Satin
6 Twill
0
Plain
Plain Twill Satin 4
Weave type
2

0
Fig. 5: Effect of Weave Type on Air Permeability
Khadi Handloom Powerloom
• Air permeability values of satin are higher than the twill Fabric Type
and plain woven fabrics due to:
Fig. 8 Effect of Fabric Type on bending length in warp
• Loose structure of satin. direction
• Floating of warp and weft yarns in satin. • Khadi fabrics show short bending length followed by
Crease Recovery handloom and powerloom fabrics due to:
• More weight of khadi fabric than handloom and
Crease Recovery Angle powerloom fabrics.
600 • Heavier fabric bends at lower length.
Crease Recovery Angle (deg)

500
Weft Bending length
400 9
Satin
8
Bending length (mm)

300 Twill
7
Plain
200 6
Satin
5
100 Twill
4
Plain
0 3
Khadi Handloom Powerloom 2
Fabric Type 1
0
Khadi Handloom Powerloom
Fig. 6: Effect of Fabric Type on Crease Recovery Angle
Fabric Type
• The fabrics show decreasing trend in crease recovery
angle values from khadi to power loom due to: Fig. 9 Effect of Fabric Type on bending length in weft
direction
• Lower thread density in khadi and handloom
fabrics.
Effect of weave on warp bending length
• In khadi, more freedom to fibers and yarns to move
so they recover more. 4.5
4
Bending length (mm)

Effect of weave on CRA 3.5

200 3
Crease recovery angle (deg)

Khadi
180 2.5
Handloom
160 2
140 Powerloom
1.5
120
Khadi
1
100 Handloom
0.5
80 Powerloom
0
60
40 Plain Twill Satin
20 Weave type
0
Plain Twill Satin
Weave type
Fig. 10 Effect of Weave Type on bending length in warp
Fig.7 : Effect of Weave Type on Crease Recovery Angle direction

October 2011 • Man-made Textiles in India 355

 Grey Air - Water vapour Thermal Bending
Sample Wi ckability CRA
Effect of weave on weft bending length weight permeability permeability resistance length
4 Relative Absolute
(m3/m2/min) - (mkm2w-1) Weft Warp Weft Warp Average
3.5 (%) (Pam2w1) (mm) (mm) (mm) (mm) (˚)
Bending length (mm)

3 F160(R) 160 141.50 53.27 3.42 28.70 41.00 33.5 6.1 6.0 187.00
2.5 Khadi F160(.5) 160 129.76 58.79 3.16 31.92 38.70 29.5 4.0 3.8 191.50

2 Handloom F160(1) 160 123.47 60.48 2.90 36.04 37.00 29.0 3.0 3.2 200.44
F160(1.5) 160 118.35 61.98 2.80 38.53 36.00 28.0 2.8 2.3 205.64
1.5 Powerloom
F190(R) 190 128.21 58.98 3.18 32.87 36.00 31.0 7.0 6.8 214.50
1
F190(.5) 190 121.55 60.84 3.01 35.80 35.00 29.0 4.8 4.0 220.90
0.5
F190(1) 190 112.30 62.67 2.70 39.09 33.80 28.2 4.5 3.2 225.10
0
F190(1.5) 190 100.90 62.94 2.68 40.77 32.90 27.5 3.0 2.7 235.60
Plain Twill Satin
F220(R) 220 113.23 61.18 2.90 37.22 30.50 22.0 6.5 7.0 239.00
Weave type
F220(.5) 220 100.90 62.45 2.63 41.00 29.00 20.3 3.5 3.8 244.90
F220(1) 220 91.36 65.07 2.50 43.39 27.80 19.5 2.9 3.5 246.30
Fig. 11 Effect of Weave Type on bending length in weft F220(1.5) 220 82.51 69.15 2.20 45.18 26.20 18.0 2.2 2.8 251.80
direction
• Plain weave gives lower values of bending length than Air-permeability
twill and satin due to:
Air-permeability
• More no. of intersections per repeat.
150
• More effective length of yarn in fabric.

Air-permeability
130

(m3/m2/min)
• More weight.
110 160 GSM
190 GSM
Warp Flexural rigidity 90 220 GSM
200
70
180
Warp Flexural rigidity

160 50
140 R 0.5 1 1.5
(mg/cm)

120 Satin
Softener conc. (%)
100 Twill
80 Plain Fig: 14 Influence of softener treatment on Air-permeability of
60
40 khadi fabric
20 • Air permeability value decreases with increasing conc.
0
Khadi Handloom Powerloom
of softener.
Fabric type • Also it decreases with an increase in weight for a
particular concentration of softener due to:
Fig. 12 Effect of Fabric Type on flexural rigidity in warp • The absorbed softener within fibers could block the
direction air space between fibers or yarns resulting in
decrease in air-permeability.
Weft Flexural rigidity
180 Water vapour permeability
Flexural rigidity (mg/cm)

160
140
Water Vapour Permeability
120 4
Satin
100
Absolute (Pam2W-1)

Twill 3.5
80
Plain 3
60 160 GSM
40 2.5 190 GSM
20 220 GSM
2
0
1.5
Khadi Handloom Powerloom
1
Fabric type
R 0.5 1 1.5

Softener Conc. (%)

Fig. 13 Effect of Fabric Type on flexural rigidity in weft
direction Fig: 15 Influence of softener treatment on absolute water
• Flexural rigidity show similar trend to bending length vapour permeability of khadi fabric
Comfort properties of softener treated khadi fabric • The absolute water vapour permeability decreases with
The values of comfort properties of khadi fabrics before and an increase in concentration of softener.
after the differential softener treatment are given by table on • Also it decreases with an increase in weight for a
right hand side. particular concentration of softener due to:

356 October 2011 • Man-made Textiles in India

• The pore size decreases due to the coating of softener Bending Length (Weft)
on surface, which, in turn, impedes the passage of
water vapour through the fabric. 50

Bending Length (mm)

45

Water Vapour Permeability 40 160 Weft

70 35 190 Weft
30 220 Weft
65 25
Relative (%)

160 GSM
20
60 190 GSM
R 0.5 1 1.5
220 GSM
55
Softener conc. (%)

50 Fig: 19 Influence of softener treatment on bending length of

R 0.5 1 1.5
khadi fabric in weft direction
Softener Conc. (%)
• With increase in GSM the bending length of the fabric
Fig: 16 Influence of softener treatment on relative water decreases.
vapour permeability of khadi fabric • The softener treatment result in decrease in bending
Thermal resistance length of the fabric due to:
• The bending length is highly dependent on the
Thermal Resistance
50
weight of the fabric when it hangs under its own
weight.
Thermal Resist. (mKm2W-1)

45
• The softener binds the fibers and yarns up to some
40
160 GSM limit and allows little freedom of movement to
35 190 GSM fibers.
220 GSM
30 Wickability
25

20 Wickability (Warp)
R 0.5 1 1.5
Softener Conc. (%) 8
Wickability (mm)

7
Fig: 17 Influence of softener treatment on thermal resistance
6
of khadi fabric 160 Warp
5 190 Warp
• Thermal resistance increases with increasing weight of 220 Warp
4
fabric.
3
• The trend is similar with increasing concentration of 2
softener due to: R 0.5 1 1.5

Softener conc. (%)

With increase in weight, thickness increases.
Thicker fabric entraps more amount of air.
Fig: 20 Influence of softener treatment on wickability of
Bending Length khadi fabric in warp direction

Bending Length (Warp) Wickability (Weft)

35
8
33
Wickability (mm)

7
Bending Length (mm)

31
6
29
5 160 Weft
27 160 Warp
4 190 Weft
25 190 Warp
3 220 Weft
23 220 Warp
2
21
1
19
17
0
15
R 0.5 1 1.5
R 0.5 1 1.5
oftener conc. (%)
Softener conc. (%)

Fig: 18 Influence of softener treatment on bending length of Fig: 21 Influence of softener treatment on wickability of
khadi fabric in warp direction khadi fabric in weft direction

October 2011 • Man-made Textiles in India 357

• The softener treatment result in decrease in wickability Conclusion
of the fabric due to:
With the increase in GSM values, the fabric thickness
• As more softeners were absorbed into the cotton fiber, increases and air-permeability decreases. Similar trend is
the wicking capacity of fiber would decrease due to the observed in all the fabrics made from khadi, handloom, and
reduced capillary spaces in the fabric. powerloom sectors.
Crease Recovery Angle The khadi fabric shows higher thickness values followed by
Crease Recovery handloom and Powerloom fabrics.
275
Air-permeability values found to be higher for the fabrics
Crease Recovery Angle

250 made of khadi yarns followed by handloom and powerloom

225 160 GSM fabrics.
(deg)

190 GSM
200
The khadi fabric shows lower bending length values
220 GSM
followed by handloom and powerloom fabrics.
175
For a given set, air permeability values of satin fabrics were
150
R 0.5 1 1.5
higher than the twill and plain woven fabrics.
Softener conc. (%) Similar trend was also followed by the bending length.
Fig: 22 Influence of softener treatment on crease recovery of After softener treatment, khadi fabrics showed reduced air-
khadi fabric permeability values. Similar trend was observed for water
• Crease recovery value increases with increasing weight vapour permeability, bending length and wickability values.
of fabric. The values further decreased with increase in softener
concentration.
• The softener treated samples exhibit a higher CRA than
the untreated fabric due to: Thermal resistance and crease recovery values increase
The softener that promotes more inter fiber slippage. with the increase in concentration of softener.
Softener coating formed on the surface of fabric which
aids the fabric to recover from any crease

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358 October 2011 • Man-made Textiles in India

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