David Román - Unicorn
David Román - Unicorn
the unicorn
A pattern by ChiquiPork
You are going to work crocheting mostly in a continuous spiral, do not join the rounds. Use a locking stitch
marker or a piece of yarn to mark the beginning of the rounds.
Stuff with polyester filling as you go and keep doing that as the hole becomes smaller. Add stuffing until the
last moment: use small bits of stuffing and push them into in with the back of your crochet hook (unless
specified otherwise).
If you don't have safety eyes, you can replace them with embroidery (it's recommended for children under 3
years old).
ABBREVIATIONS
ch Chain
sl Slip stitch
sc Single crochet
inc 2 single crochet stitches in the same stitch
dec 2 single crochet stitches together
[...] x Repeat what is inside [ ] symbols the
number of times specified in pattern
With Off-white.
Before continuing with R12, bear in mind the following: William's eyes will be placed between R12 and R13 of the
head. What we are going to do is that at the same time we crochet R12, we are going to mark (e.g. with yarn
pieces of a different color) where the eyes will be placed later.
Take a look at R12 below, the first stitch we are going to mark is the 1 st sc inside [ ] symbols: 12 sc, [1 inc, 1 sc] x 6,
1 inc, 10 sc.
The second stitch we are going to mark is the 1 st sc of the last increase we make in the round: 12 sc, [1 inc, 1 sc]
x 6, 1 inc, 10 sc.
Doing that we will have 15 sc between the two marked stitches (PICTURE 1). Be careful when working the next
rounds not to take out the yarn pieces by accident.
R16-R23: 54 sc - 8 rounds
R24: [7 sc, 1 dec] x 6
(54)
(48)
2
R25: 3 sc, [1 dec, 6 sc] x 5, 1 dec, 3 sc (42)
R26: [5 sc, 1 dec] x 6 - Start stuffing and keep doing it as you go (36)
R27: 2 sc, [1 dec, 4 sc] x 5, 1 dec, 2 sc (30)
R28: [3 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (24)
R29: 1 sc, [1 dec, 2 sc] x 5, 1 dec, 1 sc (18)
R30: [1 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (12)
R31: 6 dec (6)
1 2 3 4
BODY
With Off-white.
Finish with a sl. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
Once here, cut the yarn leaving a tail. We are going to make an invisible join (TUTORIAL ON P. 16).
Now change color to Off-white (TUTORIAL ON P. 17). Add the new color 2 stitches after "false" stitch and continue
with the arm:
R12-R26: 15 sc - 15 rounds - Start filling and keep doing it until R23 approx (15)
R27: [3 sc, 1 dec] x 3 (12)
R28: 12 sc (12)
Now your are going to close the arm, make sure you did not stuff the last rounds.
To close the arm, fold it in half, and from where you stopped in R28, crochet 6 sc through the stitches of both
parts (PICTURES A / B).
Fasten off and cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
A B
Place the yarn to the back
before start crocheting the 6 sc
Once here, cut the yarn leaving a tail. We are going to make an invisible join (TUTORIAL ON P. 16).
Now change color to Off-white (TUTORIAL ON P. 17). Add the new color 2 stitches after "false" stitch and continue
with the arm:
R14-R27: 18 sc - 14 rounds - Start filling and keep doing it until R24 approx (18)
R28: [7 sc, 1 dec] x 2 (16)
R29: 16 sc (16)
Now you are going to close the leg the same way you did with the arm, fold it in half and make 8 sc through the
stitches of both parts. Make sure you did not stuff the last rounds.
Fasten off and cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
HORN
With Light Yellow.
Round 1: 4 mp in a magic ring (4)
Make the rest of rounds working in back loops only
Finish with a sl. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the horn just a little.
Finish off. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
bases for
the hair
When the time comes to attach William's hair, we will not do it directly onto the head and body. We are going to
make two bases where we will attach the hair later.
Finish with a sl. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12
Now sew the ears onto the head. The ears will be placed on top of R20/21 of the head with 8 stitches approx.
between them. Follow the pictures below to place them and hold them with pins before sewing:
Now sew the arms onto the body. Follow the pictures below to place them and hold them with pins before
sewing:
Time for sewing the legs onto the body. Place William facing up. Place legs centered with William's body, and
slightly inclined upwards as they separate from the center (SEE PICTURES BELOW). Hold them with pins before
sewing so they won't move.
A B C
D E F
Now continue with the tail base: Place it centered in the bottom back part of the body. Follow the pictures
below and sew it onto the body through the base last round back loops, the same way we did with the head
base.
A B Sew it through
back loops C
Step 1: Cut out a piece of cardboard (or similar) about 15cm x 17cm (height - width). We will use the 15cm side
to create William's head hair and we will use the 17cm side to create William's tail hair. Make a small cut with the
scissors on the top right side of the cardboard. Keep in mind that if you have used a different crochet hook size
or yarn weight, maybe you should adapt the hair size to your needs.
Step 2: Place the beginning of the yarn on the cardboard and hold it with your finger.
Step 3: Wrap the yarn lengthwise around the cardboard towards where you made the small cut on the right. Do
not tighten the yarn too much when wrapping it around the cardboard, so the final size of each piece of yarn will
be as similar as possible.
Step 4: Once you reach the small cut part, insert the yarn inside to hold it.
Step 5: Cut the yarn along the top edge of the cardboard.
Step 6: Now you will have separate pieces of yarn with twice the length of the cardboard. This is because we will
fold each piece of yarn in half before attach them to the base, so at the end you will have 2 pieces of hair with
the cardboard length for each yarn piece.
Repeat steps 2 to 5 when you need more hair for William.
NOTE: In the pictures below you will see how I create William's head hair with the 15cm side of the cardboard. Once you
have finished with the head and go for the tail, just turn the cardboard and use the 17cm side. Make another small cut
on the top right side before start wrapping.
15 cm
17 cm
We are going to attach the head hair in first place. Keep in mind the following before starting:
A) We will attach hair in all the front loops that remained from the base last round.
B) On the fringe part, we will attach hair in all the rows.
C) From where the fringe ends, we will attach hair in the first row and skip the next one*. Repeat this until finish at
the bottom of the base.
*NOTE: We are doing this (skipping rows) because otherwise William will have too much hair. As it is kind of a personal choice, if when
you have finished attaching hair, you think you would like him to have more, just add some more hair in the rows you had skipped .
A B C
Fringe
1 2 3
4 5 6
NOTES:
- Each fringe's row that we work in, we will have attached 4 pieces of yarn (8 pieces of hair), without counting
the ones we attached on the front loops of the base.
- Each row that we work in from where the fringe ends, we will have attached 3 pieces of yarn (6 pieces of hair)
without counting the ones we attached on the front loops of the base.
- Each row that we DON'T work in from where the fringe ends, we will only have the 2 pieces of yarn (4 pieces of
hair) we attached on the front loops of the base.
A B C
4 3 2 1
Once we have finished attaching the head hair, the next steps are optional, depending on how you like
William's hair to be, maybe you like the one side hairstyle, or maybe you prefer a straight fringe hairstyle.
I'm going to explain the one side hairstyle, which is the one I like the most:
Use your fingers to style William's hair. Place William's fringe in front of the ear and the rest of the hair behind the
ear. Follow the pictures below:
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If you make an invisible join you will avoid the bump where you place your fastening off knot. With an invisible
join you are making a "false" stitch on top of next round first stitch. Let's do it!:
Cut the yarn leaving a tail to make the invisible join, and pull the working loop all the way out until the end of the
yarn has been pulled through the middle of the last stitch (PICTURES A / B). Thread the yarn end into a yarn
needle and bring it under both loops of the 2 nd stitch from where you ended last round (PICTURE C). Pull the yarn
until you get the front loop of your "false" stitch (PICTURE D). Go back to the back loop only of last stitch of
previous round (PICTURE E). Pull the yarn until you get the back loop of your "false" stitch (PICTURE F). Tighten it just
enough so that the "false" stitch" looks like the rest of stitches. Secure it and loose yarn end on the wrong side of
your work. You're done! (PICTURES G / H).
A B
Last stitch
C Last stitch
previous round
D previous round
2º 1º
False stitch
front loop
E F Last stitch
previous round
False stitch
back loop
Last stitch
previous round
G H Last stitch
previous round
False stitch
:u
Add the new color in the indicated stitch (PICTURES A / B). Yarn over and draw a loop to secure the beginning
(PICTURES C / D). Pull a little the beginning yarn tail to adjust the knot (PICTURE E). Now insert your hook through
the same stitch and make your first sc (PICTURE F). Keep working around and hide at the same time the
beginning yarn tail (PICTURE G). Once you have finished the round, continue working as usual. Be careful not to
confuse the first loop/knot with your first sc (PICTURE H).
A B
C D
E F
G H