WATER

Water makes up over 70% of Earth’s surface, and it is a common

feature on any layout. Bodies of water are found at the lowest point in a
landscape’s contours.
Rivers flow towards another body of water like an ocean, lake or
another river. Many rivers, like the Missouri River, are naturally created
when small rivers and creeks converge. Rivers in flat areas tend to
be slow-moving, muddy (filled with sediment) and wind in braid-like
patterns. Mountainous rivers are usually crystal clear and drop quickly
in elevation, which creates wild rapids with white water and waterfalls.
Lakes can be natural or man-made. Glacial lakes, like those found in the
Lake District in England, were carved when glaciers moved through the
landscape. Many glacial lakes have large boulders left behind by the
glaciers along the shorelines. Other lakes are created when people build
dams to contain rivers and supply electricity to local towns and cities.
Each water feature is different and will need different products to
achieve the desired results. Decide what kind of water feature you are
going to create, such as a rushing river, quiet lake or ocean waves
crashing on a beach. Then choose which products best fit your needs.

Product Overview
Realistic WaterTM
Use Realistic Water to model still or slow-moving water, such as ponds,
rivers, lakes and more. This simple solution for modeling water can be
poured directly from the bottle in layers up to 1/8" at a time.
Realistic Water is self-leveling, water-soluble, won’t crack and has minimal
shrinkage. It is fully compatible with Water Undercoats™, Water Tints and
Surface Waters. NOTE: Tuft-Tac glue is not compatible with Realistic Water.

170
Deep Pour WaterTM
Deep Pour Water can be poured
in layers up to 1/2" at a time. It is
ideal for deep water features and
submerged underwater scenes.
Deep Pour Water is available
in pre-tinted Murky or Clear for
customizing the color.
Deep Pour Water dries hard and
won’t crack, is non-shrinking and
will not become discolored over
time. It is fully compatible with
Water Undercoats, Water Tints
and Surface Waters. CLEAR

MURKY

E-Z WaterTM
E-Z Water is a great solution for easy, fast and flat surfaces. There is no
need for measuring or mixing. Just melt E-Z Water and pour to create
ponds, streams, rivers and harbors. E-Z Water hardens in minutes and is
easy to tint with powdered fabric dye.
E-Z Water is a low odor, non-toxic, plastic product that comes in the form
of pellets. It is compatible with Water Undercoats and Surface Waters.
Note: Do not use Water Tints with E-Z Water.

171
Water Tints
Water Tints make it easy to create natural shallows and depths. Use Water Tints with
Deep Pour Water, Realistic Water or Surface Water for authentic colors on your water
feature. Mix more than one to create custom colors.

NAVY BLUE TURQUOISE MOSS GREEN

SAGE GREEN OLIVE DRAB YELLOW SILT MURKY

Water UndercoatsTM
Water Undercoats are 100%
acrylic and available in six
colors that color and seal
your plaster base all at once.
Combine multiple colors to
create authentic transitions
between shallows and depths.
DEEP BLUE NAVY BLUE

HUNTER GREEN MOSS GREEN OLIVE DRAB YELLOW SILT

White Water HighlightTM

Add White Water Highlight
to intensify water crests,
rapids and waterfalls.
Create foamy or frothy water
by adding White Water
Highlight to Surface Waters
or Deep Pour
Water. White Water
Highlight is 100%
acrylic.

172
SURFACE WATERS
Set your water in motion by using Surface Waters to
model splashes, waves and waterfalls.

Product Overview
Water Effects®
Water Effects is
perfect for modeling
fast-moving water
features like waterfalls
and rapids. Water
Effects is moldable,
holds its shape, dries
clear, and remains
flexible.

Water Ripples
Water Ripples goes on
clear and dries clear
to create ripples and
windswept surfaces.

Water Waves
Water Waves goes on
clear and dries clear to
create splashes, waves
and rapids.

173
PREPARING THE WATER CAVITY ONLINE
VIDEO

The first step of any water feature is preparing the water cavity.
Construct any banks or dams when you are forming the terrain contours
with Plaster Cloth or Shaper Sheet (page 69). Make sure the banks of
the water cavity will be deep enough to contain the water material.
All water cavities must be completely sealed by a smooth, continuous
layer of Plaster Cloth, Shaper Sheet Plaster, Lightweight Hydrocal or
Super Strength Plaster. Follow the water product’s instructions closely
to seal the water area with the appropriate material. This layer of plaster
not only protects against seepage, but also creates a barrier between
the water product and any materials used to create the layout base
that may cause an adverse reaction with the water product. This step is
essential to obtaining good results when constructing a water feature.
After sealing the water area with plaster, you can also use a coat of
Flex Paste to ensure any holes in the plaster are filled.
When installing Plaster Cloth, be sure to smooth all holes until they are
filled. If they are not filled, add another layer of Plaster Cloth or a coat
of plaster or Flex Paste to cover and seal the holes.
PLASTER CLOTH - BEFORE PLASTER CLOTH - AFTER

When modeling with Shaper Sheet, always coat the Shaper Sheet
thoroughly with plaster. Do not pour a water product directly on the
Shaper Sheet’s fiber mesh.
Allow the plaster
base of your
water cavity to
dry completely.
Once dry, it is
time to add color
(page 175).

Coat Shaper Sheet thoroughly with Shaper Sheet Plaster.

174
COLORING THE WATER CAVITY ONLINE
VIDEO

Natural bodies of water exist in a variety of colors. A lake or river may be

dark and murky, while an ocean is bright blue. Colors also indicate depth,
with deep areas often appearing much darker. Deep Pour Water, Realistic
Water and E-Z Water are all transparent once they have cured, meaning
you will be able to see the colors beneath them. Create these effects on
your water feature by coloring the plaster base with Earth Colors Liquid
Pigment or Water Undercoat prior to pouring the water product.

Adding Color
Most bodies of water range from turquoise blue and mossy green
to murky brown. Earth Colors Liquid Pigment are all earth tones that
can be used to create muddy creeks, rivers and ponds. Use Water
Undercoats for water features that are shades of blue or green.
To apply Pigment and Water Undercoats, simply paint a couple coats
on the water cavity. Use two or more coats for the best results. Make
sure there are no holes in coverage and reapply if needed. Be sure your
plaster base is sealed before pouring your water product (page 174).
You can create an illusion of depth with Water Undercoats or Earth
Colors Liquid Pigment, reducing the need for a water feature that is
physically deep. For most rivers, lakes, oceans and ponds, the shoreline
is shallow and the depth increases the further you go from shore.
To create the illusion of depth, begin painting the deepest areas of
your water feature with a darker color of Undercoat or Pigment, such
as Deep Blue or Hunter Green. Paint lighter colors like Moss Green or
Yellow Silt along the shoreline for the illusion of a shallow area. Blend
the edges of the dark and light colors together to create a smooth
transition between deep and shallow areas.

Olive Drab Moss Green

Moss Green

Yellow Silt Olive Drab

175
SEALING THE PLASTER BASE
Plaster is porous and can produce air bubbles in a water product.
The plaster itself must be sealed prior to pouring. If you used Water
Undercoats or 100% acrylic paint to color your water cavity, the plaster
base will be sealed and ready for the water product. If you chose Earth
Colors Liquid Pigments instead, you must seal your plaster base with a
coat of Scenic Cement.
Allow the Scenic Cement, Water Undercoats or 100% acrylic paint to
dry completely. Once the water cavity is colored and sealed, it is time
to pour the water product. If you want to submerge items like Dead
Fall, rocks, Talus, Turf, or figures in the water, skip to the “Underwater
Features” section (pages 180-181).

CHOOSING A WATER
The type of water feature you create will determine which water product
you should use. Consider factors like time, color, depth and other
products you will be using. For example, slow moving creeks are not
very deep and a product that is poured in thin layers, such as Realistic
Water, may be the best option. On the other hand, a large lake will be
much deeper and may require a product that can build up depth quickly,
like Deep Pour Water or E-Z Water. Reference the product descriptions
for pouring depth. Information such as curing time, whether a product
can be layered, and the best techniques for each product is addressed
throughout the Water section. We recommend reading the whole section
before choosing a water product.
If you are unsure how
much water product you
will need, try the free Water
Volume Estimator app at
woodlandscenics.
com. Simply enter the
dimensions of your water
feature, and the app
will estimate how much
Realistic Water or Deep
Pour Water is needed for
your project.

Water Volume Estimator

This fast and easy tool calculates how much Deep Pour Water or Realistic
Water you need to create your water feature. Just put in the measurements
of your water feature and let the Water Volume Estimator do the rest.

176
TINTING THE WATER ONLINE
VIDEO

Natural bodies of water are rarely crystal clear and often become opaque
as the depth increases. Materials suspended in water, like sediment,
underwater plant life or pollutants, can affect the color of a natural body
of water. These effects can be recreated by tinting the water. Tinting can
adjust the transparency of the water to further the illusion of depth, soften
details (like logs and rocks) underneath the water, create an algae effect
and make the water look muddy or filled with sediment.
All water products can be tinted for different effects in the water
feature, but tinting the water product must be done during the product’s
preparation. The products used to tint the water product vary depending
on the product you choose.

Testing the Color

Like many natural water features, tinted water appears more opaque in
deeper areas and remains more transparent in shallow areas. The more
tint you add to the water product, the more opaque the water will be. If the
water is too opaque, submerged details will be harder to see. Less is often
best when it comes to tinting water features.
If you have a very specific look in mind, test the color in a cup of tap water.
Use the Water Volume Estimator (page 176) to estimate how much water
will be needed for your water feature and measure the same amount of
tap water in a separate cup. Add the colorant to the tap water. Then pour
this mixture into a dish approximately the same dimensions as your water
feature to see how transparent it remains. Remember this color will also be
impacted by the Water Undercoat color that you have on the plaster base.
If it seems too opaque in the tap water, add less tint to the water product.
If the water feature is a critical pour on a finished layout, you may want to
test the color on an actual water feature with the water product itself before
committing it to a permanent layout. This is easy if you use Shaper Sheet.
Create a similar-shaped water feature with a small piece of Shaper Sheet.
Prepare it the same way as the permanent water feature and pour the
tinted tap water into the Shaper Sheet model as a test.

Tinting Realistic Water

Realistic Water can be tinted with Water Tints, Earth Colors Liquid
Pigment, 100% acrylic paint, food coloring and powdered fabric dye.
To tint Realistic Water, pour the water product into a disposable cup.
Add the chosen colorant to the water product and very slowly mix it into
the Realistic Water. Slow, methodical mixing is the best way to prevent
and reduce bubbles. If bubbles do occur, cover the cup and let the
material sit until the bubbles disperse (approximately two hours).
You can add the colorant directly to the bottle of Realistic Water if
you intend to pour a lot of water features in one day. If the colorant
separates in the bottle, stir it again before use.

177
Tinting Deep Pour Water
The process of mixing, pouring and curing
Deep Pour Water includes a chemical
reaction. For this reason, the only colorants
that should be used to tint Deep Pour
Water are Woodland Scenics Water Tints.
Add Water Tint after stirring the Water
Base and Activator for one minute. Mix
the Water Tint with the Deep Pour Material
thoroughly before pouring. Stir slowly
to prevent bubbles. Bubbles that occur
during the mixing process will likely
dissipate during the curing process, but
it is best to start with as few bubbles as
possible.

MAKING A DAM FOR OPEN-ENDED WATER

FEATURES ONLINE
VIDEO

Large water features like

oceans, harbors, bays and
rivers can be difficult to model
because of limited
available space.
However, you
can create
a water
feature
that abuts
the edge
of your layout,
allowing you to
create the water
feature in the available
space.
To make a water feature
abutted to the edge of your
layout, simply create a dam to
hold the water product in. We recommend installing the dam before
landscaping the water feature’s base or banks. The Scenic Cement
you use to install the landscaping materials on the base of your water
feature will help prevent any leaks and ensure a good result.
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For Deep Pour Water
When using Deep Pour Water, make a removable dam out of clear,
smooth plastic. Cut the plastic taller than the desired depth of the
finished water feature. Use Foam Tack Glue to attach the dam to the
edge of the water feature. The glue must completely cover the seam
between the layout and the plastic. Run a thick bead of glue along the
edge of the water feature’s base, and then press the plastic into it. If
any holes are present, the Deep Pour Water will leak out of the water
feature. Be thorough when applying the glue and installing the dam.
Let the glue dry completely. If desired, run masking tape along the
bottom edge of the dam to reinforce it and further prevent leaks.
Pour the Deep Pour Water (page 171) into the water feature, and let it
cure completely. Once cured, gently peel the plastic away. If there is
any excess glue stuck to the layout, scrape it off with a hobby knife. For
a neat, crisp finish, paint the edges of your layout black all the way up
to the open-ended water feature.

For Realistic Water

When using Realistic Water, the steps for creating and installing the
dam are the same as Deep Pour Water except the dam will not be
removable. Cut the plastic to snugly fit the water feature or trim the
plastic after Realistic Water cures.

179
UNDERWATER FEATURES
When pouring a water product that is transparent, submerged objects
will be clearly visible under the surface of the water. If the water has
been tinted, the shape of the object will be visible but fine details may
be obscured. Underwater features can include figures, boats, logs,
rocks, sediment or plant life. Use landscaping materials like Talus,
Dead Fall, Fine Turf or Static Grass in your underwater features.

Landscaping
Install landscaping materials directly on the colored water cavity with
Scenic Glue, Static-Tac or Scenic Cement. Let the glue dry completely.
Landscaping materials are often porous and contain air that can cause
bubbles in the water product as it escapes. Once installation glue is dry,
saturate these items with Scenic Cement to seal them and prevent the
air from escaping. Another way to seal the landscaping materials is to
pour a very thin layer of Deep Pour Water over the water base. This layer
will lock everything in place and allow air bubbles to escape during the
curing process. Then pour an additional layer to the desired depth.

Figures and Accents

Figures and accents can be installed in a water cavity. Follow the
instructions in the previous section to install figures. Testing in a small
amount of water product is recommended before committing a figure
to a permanent water feature. The paints used on figures and accents
may not be compatible with the water product, and some accents may
trap air, which will cause bubbles.
E-Z Water is not recommended for submerging figures and accents
because E-Z Water is heated to very high temperatures that can cause
plastic figures to melt.

180
Floating Objects
Draw attention to your water feature by creating the effect of swimming
figures or floating underwater plants and debris. This effect is most
pronounced when using Deep Pour Water but can also be done with
Realistic Water.
To create this effect, pour the water product in at least two layers. The
first layer will make it look like the object has water beneath it, while
the top layer makes the object appear submerged. Prepare the water
feature as described previously. Place the object on a non-stick surface
and coat it thoroughly with Scenic Cement. Let it dry completely. While
the object dries, pour the first layer of water product on your layout.
If you are using Deep Pour Water, press the object into the first layer of
Deep Pour when it reaches the sticky state (approximately four hours
after pouring). Then, pour another layer of Deep Pour over the object.
To prevent bubbles, do not pour the water product directly on the
object. If you miss the sticky state and the Deep Pour has hardened,
secure the object to the first layer’s surface with Scenic Glue, Static-
Tac or Scenic Cement. Let the glue dry completely, and then pour the
Deep Pour Water.

2nd Layer ¢
1st Layer ¢
Colored Water Cavity ¢
Terrain Shell ¢

For Realistic Water, allow the first layer to dry completely. Then, attach
the object to the fully cured first layer with one of the glues mentioned
above. Allow the glue to dry, then pour another layer over the first.
Avoid pouring directly on the object.
E-Z Water is not recommended for submerging items because it is not
intended to be poured in layers. Transition lines between layers will be
visible and the floating effect will not appear natural.

181
POURING THE WATER PRODUCT ONLINE
VIDEO

Pouring the Water Product should be left to the very last stages
of construction. Landscaping materials need to be installed and
adhesives or latent moisture left over from the construction process
should be dry. Lingering moisture in the layout can have adverse
effects in all the water products, including cloudiness, inability to cure
to a hard state and adverse chemical reactions.
The only landscaping materials you should install after pouring the water
are trees and buildings surrounding the water feature. These items can
physically get in the way when you are trying to pour the water product,
so it is best to install them when the water has fully cured.
Each product is prepared and poured differently. Prepare your chosen
water product by following all package instructions, as well as the tips
and techniques below.

Deep Pour Water

Deep Pour Water is made up of two parts: the Activator and the Water
Base. When mixed together, there is a chemical reaction that hardens
and forms Deep Pour Water. Great results with Deep Pour Water are
easy to achieve when instructions and tips are followed.
Preparation: Deep Pour Water is heat sensitive during the preparation
and curing processes. It is important to warm the Activator and Water
Base bottles before mixing. However, if the bottles are too hot to touch,
they are too hot to pour. Let the bottles cool until they are warm to the
touch, then pour into a cup. When you are stirring, scrape the sides
and bottom of the cup to ensure the Water Base and Activator are
thoroughly mixed.

Soak in warm water. Scrape the sides and bottom of

the cup when mixing.

182
Curing: Once poured, keep Deep Pour Water in an environment that stays
an even, warm temperature. If the area it is curing in is below 75°, cover the
pour with aluminum foil overnight. Cool air blowing across the water product
during curing can cause a film to develop on the surface. If the environment
is 75° or warmer, do not cover the Deep Pour with aluminum foil.

Bubbles: You may see trapped air being displaced, especially when
there are submerged landscaping features. You can reduce the bubbles
by misting the pour with rubbing alcohol. This will minimize the surface
tension and allow the trapped bubbles to surface and dissipate. This will
also help reduce capillary action: a natural phenomenon in which a liquid
“creeps” up the sides of the container it is in.

Layering: You can pour Deep Pour Water in 1/2" incremental layers. Do
not exceed a 1/2" depth in a single pour. For water features deeper than
1/2", pour the first layer up to the 1/2" depth, and let it cure to its sticky
state (approximately four hours). Then, mix and pour the second layer.
Repeat as needed to achieve desired depth.

Adjusting Tint Intensity: After Deep Pour has been poured, you may
see that the tint is too dark or too light. It is best to address any color
issues immediately by mixing and pouring an additional small batch of
Deep Pour that is either clear (for applications that came out too dark) or
more opaque (for applications that came out too light). Do not exceed
the 1/2" overall depth between the two pours. The second batch will
blend with the first for an even, consistent color.

Changing Tint Color: If you pour a layer and want to change the color
completely, you can. Mix and pour a second layer after the first has
cured. The color will be cumulative, which means that if you pour Yellow
Silt over cured Navy Blue tint, the overall result may be green. To block
out the first color entirely, pour an opaque mixture for the second layer.
183
Realistic Water
Simply remove the cap on the Realistic Water bottle and pour the water
product directly into the prepared water cavity. Do not shake the bottle
at any time. Pour Realistic Water up to 1/8” thick—any deeper and it will
remain cloudy rather than curing to a clear state. If bubbles are in the
bottle, let it sit for two hours to dissipate. Realistic Water should cure to a
clear state in about 24 hours, but it may take longer for deeper pours or
humid environments.
If bubbles occur after Realistic Water is poured, (1) pop them with a
toothpick or pull them to the edge of the water feature where they will
dissipate quickly. (2) You can also mist the surface with rubbing alcohol to
reduce bubbles and capillary action.

1 toothpick 2 rubbing alcohol

bubbles bubbles

Before pouring Realistic Water, consider the following factors:

• Realistic Water is a hygroscopic material, which means it attracts water.
If there is any latent moisture or if moisture is added after Realistic
Water has been poured, this moisture can make Realistic Water
cloudy. The cloudiness will dissipate over time, but you can stimulate
dissipation by placing a fan in the room with the layout (do not aim fan
directly at water feature).
• Realistic Water is not for use with PVA glues or Tuft-Tac and does not
cure to a hard surface. Items placed on top will damage the surface
and may permanently adhere.
• Do not store finished models with Realistic Water vertically.

E-Z Water
Melt E-Z Water pellets in a clean, dry, disposable metal container. E-Z
Water is very difficult to remove if spilled and will not be easily removable
from utensils or the container it is heated in. A tin can is a good option
because it can be thrown directly in the trash. Use a disposable, non-
melting utensil to gently stir E-Z Water during preparation. If you intend to
pour a lot of E-Z water, dedicate a pan (Teflon) and utensil to the process.
184
Place the pellets in the container and use a burner or hot plate (only)
to melt the pellets, following the instructions carefully. When the pellets
begin to melt, stir gently. As soon as the pellets are liquified, pour E-Z
Water into the prepared water cavity on the layout. Work quickly. The
pellets are nearly colorless
when melted, but they will
darken slightly if continuously
exposed to heat in a melted
form for more than 15 minutes.
Do not pour E-Z water in layers
or transition lines will be visible.
E-Z Water will harden in just a
few minutes depending on how
deep it is poured. If E-Z Water
hardens before pouring, re-melt
it in the pan.

SURFACE WATERS ONLINE

VIDEO

Surface Waters are designed to create the illusion of motion. This can
include anything from small ripples to waterfalls and ocean waves. The
product you choose will depend on the motion you want to create for your
water feature.
All Surface Water Products are compatible with Realistic Water, Deep Pour
Water and E-Z Water. Surface Waters can be customized with Water Tints
by mixing the Tint and Surface Water in a small disposable cup before
application.
Avoid applying Surface Water where it will be in contact with submerged
landscaping materials to prevent colorants in the landscaping materials from
seeping into the Surface Water. If contact will be made, seal the object with
Deep Pour Water prior to applying Surface Water.

185
Using Water Effects
Model rapidly-moving water on your layout by squeezing strips of
Water Effects on top of a cured water surface. Use a small brush to
dab, or stipple, the Water Effects strips. Allow it to dry thoroughly.
To model waterfalls, (1) apply Water Effects to freezer paper in thin,
wavy strips spaced tightly together. Measure the vertical drop on your
layout, and make the waterfall 1/2" longer for attachment. (2) Use a
toothpick to add texture or a
damp paintbrush to smooth. 1
(3) When dried clear, peel the Water
waterfall off the freezer paper, Effects
and use a small amount of Water
Effects on the bottom of each end
of the waterfall. This will adhere
the waterfall to the vertical drop
on your layout. Hold in place
until setting begins.
When modeling with Water
Effects, keep in mind that the 2
thicker it is, the longer it will
take to dry. If you use a thick
application, it can potentially
remain a milky white for weeks.
Less is more.

186
Using Water Ripples
When applying Water Ripples, you should consider what force is
causing the water to ripple. If you are making a lake or pond, water will
ripple from wind or activity like boats, swimmers, etc. Ripples are also
frequently found where water is lapping against the shoreline. Whereas
ripples on a river are caused by the flow of water around objects
submerged in the water.
To model ripples,
swelling waves or
windswept water,
dip a stiff brush into
Water Ripples, loading
it with product. Dab
Water Ripples onto
the surface of a cured
water feature. Wait 10
minutes. You can let
it dry as is, or you can
make the ripples more SMOOTH

choppy or soft. For

choppier ripples, stipple
the application again.
For softer ripples, use
a spray bottle to mist
water or rubbing alcohol
onto the surface while
it is still wet. The more
you apply, the softer
the ripples will be. Wait
another 10 minutes.
Then let dry or repeat GENTLE RIPPLES
the above techniques
until you reach the
desired effect.

NOTE: Water
Ripples should
always
be applied d
irectly to
a cured wate
r product.
Do not apply
directly to HEAVY RIPPLES
painted surfa
ces.

187
Using Water Waves
Large waves occur along beaches of oceans and on fast-moving rivers
around or below submerged items. Tall, choppy waves can occur on
large lakes due to wind, bad weather and boating traffic.
Use a craft stick to apply Water Waves directly to the cured water
feature. Then dip another craft stick into water to wet it. With the wet
craft stick, gently push the material into a peak. Form a cresting wave
by pushing the tip of the peak over. Use a soft wet brush to smooth the
surface of Water Waves. To create a choppy
wave, use a toothpick to add detail. Apply
Water Waves in 1"
increments until the
desired height is
achieved.

For crashing waves

on ocean shorelines,
we recommend mixing
Soft Flake Snow (page
190) and White Earth
Colors Liquid Pigment
into Water Waves. Add
Snow and pigment until
it is a thick texture. Then
dab onto the shoreline,
sculpting and shaping as
described above. HEAVY RAPIDS
A splash in a water
feature can create a
sense of time on your
layout. To create a
splash, shape Water
Waves into smooth,
circular waves around
the epicenter. The
epicenter is where the
object creating the
splash entered the water.
If desired, you can
WAVES
188
install an object like a rock
in the center of the splash
as described in the Floating NOTE: Water Waves should
Objects section (page 181). always be applied directly to
a
The waves will become cured water product. Do not
apply
wider as they get farther directly to painted surfaces.
away from the epicenter.
To give the splash height,
repeatedly layer dabs
of Water Waves on top
of each other until you
achieve the desired
effect. Let each dab
dry completely before
applying the next. It can
take time to build up a
splash, but it can be a
very special feature on
your layout.
SPLASH

DETAILING WATER FEATURES

Still water can be crystal clear, but moving water often has some foam and
froth. This is often found as whitecaps on waves, along a shoreline or where
waterfalls meet a pool of water. The faster and more turbulent the movement,
the more foam and froth there will be.

White Water Highlights

To create the appearance of froth, use the drybrush technique (page
112) and brush White Water Highlight on peaks of crashing waves. For
detailed application, use a toothpick or damp, fine-tipped brush. For
areas with a lot of crashing waves and heavy white water, like the base
of a waterfall or around
WITHOUT WITH
rocks in fast-moving White Water Highlights White Water Highlights
rivers, load a larger
brush up with product.
Paint it on the area
thickly, and then use
the dry brush technique
to create lighter white
water areas around the
churning water.

189