Learn to weave on the

Table Loom

spinning | weaving | carding | felting | knitting | dyeing

Welcome to the wonderful
world of weaving ...
Welcome to the wonderful world of weaving.
You are starting an exciting journey of discovery and we
know you will enjoy all the texture and colour, creativity
and satisfaction that weaving will bring.

We make a range of table loom. Our four and sixteen shaft

table looms are available in a 60cm (24in) weaving width
and the eight shaft table loom is available in 40, 60 or
80cm (16, 24 or 32in) weaving widths.

This booklet shows our easy warping method and gives

instructions for a first project. We used a 40cm (16in) table
loom but the instructions apply to all our table looms.

Four Shaft 60cm (24in)

pictured with optional stand

Eight Shaft 40cm (16in) Sixteen Shaft 60cm (24in)

Glossary
Before you begin your first project on the table loom, here Shafts(Harnesses) Frames which hold the heddles. Shaft
is a glossary of weaving terms you will need to know to get one is the shaft closest (front) to the
started. weaver.
Shed Opening formed in the warp to allow the
Beaming Winding the warp under tension onto the shuttle to pass.
back roller.
Shuttle Holds the weft yarn.
Beater Frame holding the reed. Beats the weft
thread into place. Sleying Threading the warp ends through the
reed.
Cross Sticks Sticks used to keep the warp threads in the
correct order while warping the loom. Threading Cross Made while winding the warp. Keeps
the warp ends in the correct order for
Dent Space in the reed.
threading.
Dpi Dents per inch in the reed.
Warp The lengthwise threads held under
Draft Instructions for threading and weaving. tension on the loom between the front
Drawdown Diagram of woven cloth resulting from the and back roller.
weaving draft. Warping Frame Wooden frame with pegs set in at regular
Draw-in Amount the fabric narrows while weaving. intervals. Used for preparing the warp
End One warp thread. yarn.
Epi Ends per inch in the sett. Warping the Loom The process of transferring the warp
Heddle Holder of a warp thread. One warp thread is threads to the loom.
threaded in a heddle. Weft Passes over and under the warp threads
Loom Waste Length of warp that cannot be woven at the to form the woven fabric.
beginning and end of weaving.
Pick Single weft row.
Raddle Used to evenly spread the warp threads to
the desired weaving width before beaming
the warp.
Raddle Cross Made at half-inch (13mm) intervals for
counting the warp threads while winding the
warp. Warp
Reed Frame holding thin metal strips set evenly
apart called dents. Used to spread the warp Weft
to the desired weaving width.
Sett The number of warp threads for each inch of
weaving. A balanced plain weave (also called
tabby) has the same number of warp and
weft threads for each square of weaving. To
find the sett, wind the warp and weft around
a ruler or yarn gauge for one inch (25mm).
The number of times the warp yarn wraps
around the ruler is the correct sett.
 cotter pin
levers
texsolv cord

bungy cord

shafts back beam

overhead beater

texsolv heddles

back roller

back warp
front beam stick

warp end stick

front
roller reed

front warp stick

shuttles cross sticks

handle

cardboard pawl cog

warp sticks reed and heddle hook

THE LOOM
*Please note the new shuttle race is not pictured above.
Reading the Draft for the dish towels.

Pattern drafts are made of four parts:

1. Threading draft
2. Shafts
3. Liftings
4. Drawdown

1. Threading Draft 3. Liftings

This shows the order in which the warp is threaded through This is the order the shafts will be lifted for each weft pick.
the heddle eyes. Threading drafts are read from right to For this project the first shafts lifted are one, three, five and
left. For this project, the first warp thread will be threaded seven by pushing levers one, three, five and seven down.
through the heddle on shaft one. Two pattern repeats are
shown. The bracket above shows how many times to repeat 4. Drawdown
each section. The diagram of the woven cloth produced by the threading
and shaft liftings.
2. Shafts
Show which shaft to use when threading and lifting.
ltwtl.dtx page 1
1. Threading Draft

x 11
8
7
6
5
4 2. Shafts
3
2
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Plain weave

Pattern weave

4. Drawdown 3. Liftings
YOUR FIRST PROJECT –
A SET OF 4 DISH TOWELS
You will need: Winding the Warp
Warping frame
Loom – Eight shaft loom Warp Colour Order
Reed – 10 dpi (10 ends per 2.5cm) Using a warping frame wind on the warping threads in the
Tape measure following sequence:
Warp sticks Remember: Each trip from the start peg to the end peg and
Cross sticks back again will be two warp ends.
Raddle Kit 1. Wind 20 ends Black
Threading hook 2. Wind 20 ends Grey
Reed hook 3. Wind 100 ends White
String 4. Wind 40 ends Grey
Scrap yarn 5. Wind 100 ends White
Shuttle 6. Wind 20 ends Grey
Scissors 7. Wind 20 ends Black
Warp and weft yarn – Ashford Cotton 5/2 (100% cotton;
848m/927yds; 200gms/7oz), Bleached White 300gm
(101/2oz), Twilight Grey 60gm (2.1oz) and Black 110gm (3.8oz).

Here’s how:
Start peg A B X
Sett – 20 ends per inch (8 ends per cm)
No. of ends: 320
Warp length: 3.8yds (3.5m) Threading cross
Width in reed: 16in (40cm)
Finished size (hemmed and washed): 4 x 14½ x 24in (37 x
61cm)

Weave Structure:
Twill

Raddle cross *

End peg D C Y

* The raddle cross will be made after each group of 10 threads.

Crosses
For fuss-free warping, you will make two crosses.

The first cross, between pegs A and B, is the threading cross The second cross between pegs C and D is the raddle or
which keeps the yarn in the correct order for threading. counting cross. As the Ashford raddle has half inch (13mm)
Each thread is separated at the cross. spacings and this project has a sett of 20 dpi we will make the
raddle cross after each group of 10 threads.

01

WINDING THE WARP

Measure a length of string the
A B X required length of the warp.
Start peg Threading Tie it to the starting peg, take
cross it over peg A, under peg B, over
peg X. Go back and forth across
the side pegs to accommodate
the length of the warp. Finishing
by going around peg Y, under C,
over D and tie to the end peg.
Side pegs
Side pegs

This is your warping guide.

Note: All threads must pass
around collection pegs X and
Y and enough middle pegs to
reach the required warp length.

See video tutorial on

Raddle Winding a warp
cross https://youtu.be/JsLHfw6dNWo
End peg D C Y
 02 03

A B D C

Place the yarn at your feet and begin winding your warp Take the yarn under C, over D and around the end peg. As the
following your warping colour guide, remembering to take raddle cross is in groups of 10, return over D and under C for
the yarn over A and under B (when returning pass the yarn 10 threads (5 return trips). The eleventh thread will go over C,
over B and under A). This makes the threading cross. Continue under D, around the end peg, back under D and over C. Now
around X and the side pegs, down and around Y. follow the warp colour order on the previous page.

04 05

D C

RADDLE CROSS Push the warp to the base of the pegs from time to time. If
As you wind, it is very important to keep an even tension on the yarn needs to be joined or you are starting a new colour,
your yarn. After each group of ten ends make a cross between always tie on at the start peg.
pegs D and C.
06 07

When the warp is finished, knot the last end to the start peg. To remove the warp begin at the start peg. Take your hand
Secure the warp by loosely knotting scrap yarn through the through the loop and reach for the warp pulling it back
middle of the threads of the start peg, the threading cross at pegs through the loop. Put your hand through the new loop and
A and B, the raddle cross C and D and the end peg. For longer continue chaining until you reach peg Y.
warps also place choke ties (tightly) at intervals along the warp.

08 09

Threading Raddle
cross End peg
cross

Start peg

NOTE: For wider warps wind your warp in two or three Before you take your warp to the loom you need to prepare
separate warps. Winding off and chaining each one. the raddle. The raddle will keep the threads spaced correctly
as you wind your warp on the loom.
10 11

WARPING THE LOOM Insert one cross stick through each side of the raddle cross.
Place a heavy object on the end of the warp, or ask a friend
to hold.
See video tutorial on How to put a warp on your table loom
Part 1 https://youtu.be/MVjOF4cfc-Y
Part 2 https://youtu.be/BN81LAN9hqc
12 13
11

Secure the two sticks with the metal rings included in the Holding the warp up with the cross sticks place the raddle on
raddle kit. Remove the cross tie. the table underneath the raddle cross.
14 15

Remove the ring from one end of the cross stick. Slide each If your project is narrower, count the spaces from the centre
group of threads off the cross stick and into the raddle. The pin to ensure the warp is evenly placed on the raddle. The
raddle used has 32 spaces, and as we have 32 groups we are centre pin is marked. Secure the warp with rubber bands.
starting at the end space.

16 17

Take the raddle with warp to the loom and secure the raddle Place the warp end stick through the end of the warp.
to the back beam as shown. Take the beginning of the warp Remove the tie.
through the castle and let it hang over the front beam.
18 19

Slide warp end stick into loops on back warp stick of loom Spread the warp out to the same width as the threads in the
(refer to the assembly instructions for how to attach back warp raddle. Remove the reed and beater top rail.
stick). Secure each end with a rubber band.

20 21

BEAMING THE WARP CHECK THE DIRECTION YOU ARE ROLLING THE WARP ON. IT
Ensure the rear pawl is in the ratchet. Holding the warp MUST GO IN THE DIRECTION SHOWN BY THE ARROWS.
under tension with one hand, wind on until the end stick has
wrapped around the back roller. Check that the ties securing
the raddle are not caught around the roller.
22 23

Place a cardboard warp stick across the roller. Continue beaming, inserting a cardboard warp stick at each
revolution of the roller to separate the warp layers and allow
the warp to beam even and smoothly.

24 25

Wind on until the threading cross arrives behind the castle. To remove the raddle, hold the warp up slightly, remove the
rubber bands and the ties.
26 27

A A
Attach ‘helping
hands’ (stretchy
cord included
in the raddle
kit) to the loom.
On each side go
from the front
beam, through
the castle, around
the back beam,
back through the
castle and tie at
the front beam
(see A).

Drop the raddle down from the warp.

28 29

Place the cross sticks into the cross. To support the cross sticks, use the helping hands, crossed in
a figure eight.
30 31

Secure both ends of the cross sticks with the metal rings. Remove the threading cross tie.

32 33

THREADING THE LOOM Take the warp through the castle to the left of the heddles. Tie
Push the heddles to the centre of the loom. NOTE: We moved the warp threads with a piece of scrap yarn using a larks head
some heddles from shafts one and eight to the other shafts. knot. Secure the scrap yarn to the front beam. Remove the tie
Always check how many heddles are needed on each shaft from the end of the warp and cut the loops.
BEFORE you begin.
34 35

Following the weaving draft from right to left. Take the first thread on the right of the warp, using the heddle hook, pull it through the
eye in the first heddle on the far right of shaft one (front).

36 37

Take the next thread through the eye in the first heddle Check each half inch (13mm) group as it is threaded.
on the far right of shaft two. Continue working from right
to left, taking one thread through the eye in the heddle on NOTE: It is better to check as you go than to get the full width
shafts three, four, five, six, seven and eight, seven, six, five threaded and then find a mistake.
etc. Continue until all the threads are through the eyes of
heddles.
38 39

Tie that group in an over hand loop knot in front of the heddles. SLEYING THE REED
When all threaded remove the cross sticks and helping hands. Replace the reed and top rail onto the beater. Hold the beater
in place with the cotter pins.

40 41

For this project, the sett is 20 epi and there are 10 dents per Once sleyed, tie half inch (13mm) groups with a secure knot
inch (dpi) in the reed, therefore two ends are placed in each close to the end.
dent. Our project is the full width of the loom, start on the
far right slot of the reed. If your project is narrower, take the
threads through the slot in line with the outside thread of the
warp on the back beam, or measure width from centre of reed.
42 43

TYING ON TO THE FRONT OF THE LOOM - Bring the front warp stick up and over the front beam. Place the pawl in the cog. Take a piece
of cotton string, approximately 10 times the width of the warp, take it around the front warp stick in line with the right-hand side of the
warp. You now have a double thread to “leash” your warp to the front warp stick. Take the ends of the string through the centre of the
first group of threads, around the front stick, through the centre of the second group of threads and around the front stick. Continue
across the warp, pulling the leashing string firmly as you go. When you reach the left hand side, wind the string around the warp stick
and secure with a larks head knot, do 3 of these knots. See video tutorial on Table Loom Warping Part 2 https://youtu.be/BN81LAN9hqc
44 45

Check that the tension is even across the warp, adjusting the Spread your warp using some scrap yarn. See video tutorial
leashing as necessary. Using scrap yarn, weave a heading of on Spreading the warp https://youtu.be/A-SW47MtrsQ.
plain weave to spread the warp evenly. Plain weave: raise shafts one, three, five and seven, weave
NOTE: If the weaving is not straight you can adjust the tension one pick. Lower shafts one, three, five and seven. Raise
by pulling on the string you leashed it on with. shafts two, four, six and eight. Weave one pick. Beat firmly.
Continue until warp threads are spread evenly.
46 47

WEAVING
Wind a shuttle with 5/2 Cotton, Black. Begin weaving the runner following the lifting sequence in the weaving draft.
Weave the hem in plain weave. Raise shafts one, three, five and seven and enter the shuttle from right to left. Leaving the weft yarn at
a 30° angle and 1in (2.5cm) of weft yarn hanging out at the beginning of the pick. Lower all shafts. Raise shafts two, four, six and eight.
Beat weft into place with reed. Tuck the tail end of the thread from the first row into this row. Pass the shuttle from left to right.

Lower shaft two, four,six and eight. Raise shafts one, three, 48
five and seven. Beat. Continue with this sequence for 1in
(2.5cm). Now weave the pattern. Raise shafts one, two, four,
five and six, weave one pick. Lower these shafts and raise
shafts two, three, five, six and seven, beat previous weft into
place, then weave one pick, continue as per pattern. When
you reach the last row on the draft begin at the first row
of the pattern again. Weave 2in (5cm) of black, 2in (5cm) of
grey, 16in (40cm) white, 2in (5cm) grey and 2in (5cm) black.
Weave 1in (2.5cm) in plain weave for the hem. This is one
towel woven. Raise shafts one, three, five and seven, place a
cardboard warp stick in the shed, lower one, three, five and
seven. Raise shafts two, four, six and eight, place another
cardboard warp stick. This is your spacer between the towels.
Begin weaving again. Weave hem, then pattern, then hem.

As the weaving progresses you will have to advance the warp.

With all shafts lowered (neutral) release the pawl from the
back cog and wind the warp forward by turning the front
handle until the last pick is about 2in (5cm) from the front
beam. Tighten the tension. As you roll the weaving around
you will need to place a strip of cardboard in to cover the
knots so they will not poke up through your weaving causing
bumps that may affect the tension.
49
36 50

When the weaving is finished cut from the loom. Remove the heading yarn and using a sewing machine, or by hand, hem under ½in
(13mm) at the ends of each towel. Wash in warm, soapy water, dry lying flat and press while still slightly damp.

38 39

Off the loom Washed fabric

FINISHING
When weaving is removed from the loom and before it is washed, darn in all the loose ends.
All weaving should be washed so the threads open up and fill the spaces, changing the interwoven threads into fabric.
HELPFUL HINTS TENSION
Tying Knots *The key to successful weaving is to wind the warp on the
When you tie any knot during weaving you may need to undo back roller with an even tension. This takes practice.
it again at some stage. Always tie a knot that you can undo *Be kind to yourself, your threads and your loom.
easily.
*Be sure each side is rolling on with the same tension.
Beating
Always beat gently. Sometimes the work will look a little *Place cardboard sticks between each layer as the warp
open. Remember, the work is under tension on the loom is rolled on. This prevents the threads pulling through the
and will come together when taken off. Also, the washing previous layer.
process will close the gaps a little. *Check both selvedges roll on with even tension.
*At first it is useful to have the assistance of a friend.
FIXING A BROKEN WARP THREAD *When you are on your own take the warp in one hand,
Take a piece of the yarn you put the index finger through and down the centre to
used for the warp, make it the divide the warp, use the second finger and thumb to
same length as your warp. spread the warp away from centre and hold the warp
From the back of the loom, under fourth and fifth fingers, then bring the warp down
thread the yarn through the on the front beam to tension. Wind on with the other
heddle eye and reed dent hand. This technique is suitable for looms no wider than
(where the broken thread 60cm (24in).
was) . Attach it to the weaving
in a figure eight around a *Tie or leash to front stick. With the back of your
pin placed approximately hand check for even tension across the warp. Adjust if
1in (2.5cm) from the edge of the weaving. Hang the end of necessary.
the yarn over the back beam with a small weight. Resume * If the warp is correctly wound on the loom, little tension
weaving. is necessary. If excessive loom tension is required to
* Remove pin before the weaving is wound around the front even the warp tension we recommend you unwind the
beam, otherwise it will catch on subsequent layers. warp, feeding it back through the reed and wind on again,
Carefully trim end near cloth when fabric removed from loom. following the advice above. When wound correctly the
warp tension is even and light.
ASSEMBLY CHECK
Check there is a 0.5mm gap between the screw that attaches
the pawl and the wood.


Check your handles are attached correctly.

LOOMS AND ACCESSORIES
Ashford four and sixteen shaft table looms are
available in a 60cm (24in) weaving width and Raddle Kit

the eight shaft table loom is available in 40, 60

or 80cm (16, 24 or 32in) weaving widths.
The Katie Loom is eight shafts, 30cm (12in)
weaving width. The Brooklyn Four Shaft Loom has a Warping Frame
40cm (16”) weaving width.
Recommended Accessories
Warping Frame – holds 11m (37ft) of warp. Includes
clamps.
Warping Mill Second Back Beam
Warping Frame Small – holds 4.5m (14½ft) of warp.
Lacquered. Perfect companion for the Katie Loom.
Warping Mill – holds 15m (50ft) of warp.
Raddle Kit – for even warp distribution with ½inch
spacing, 30, 40, 60 or 80cm Warping Frame Small
Boat Shuttles and Bobbins
(12, 16, 24 or 32in) wide.
Other Accessories
Loom Stand – strong frame
with 2 shelves. Folds flat
for storage. Lacquered. Bobbin Winders
Treadle Kit – four treadles
for direct tie up.
Second Back Beam – second back roller and beam.
Boat Shuttles and Bobbins.
Bobbins and Bobbin Winders.
Yarn Stand – holds six cones. Smooth yarn guides ensure Yarn Stand
snag-free warping. Rubber feet for stability. Lacquered.

Hobby Bench – seven height positions, tilt option for

comfortable weaving and roomy storage compartment.
Hobby Bench
Fringe Twister - for quick and easy finishing of ends. Fringe Twister

Pick Up Sticks and Shuttles – in various sizes.

Warp Thread Weights — to weigh floating selvedges, Pick Up Sticks (8 sizes)
supplementary or broken warp threads.
Reeds - stainless steel reeds for different setts or yarns: Shuttles (7 sizes)
6, 8, 10, 12 and 16dpi.

Warp Thread Weights Wavy Shuttles (3 sizes)

RESOURCES
Youtube tutorials

Winding a warp Table loom warping Part 1

Ashford Book of Weaving Patterns From

Four to Eight Shafts
By Elsa Krogh
All of Elsa's favourite patterns - a mixture of
classic weaves and modern techniques - for
fashion and homeware. 92 pages Table loom warping Part 2 Weaving on the Jack Loom

Spreading a warp on a Rigid Tying a warp on a Rigid Heddle

Heddle Loom Loom

Join us on Instagram @ashford_wheels_looms

Join us on facebook Ashford.Wheels.Looms

Blog Using the Fringe twister Scan QR code to

For inspirational articles, patterns and projects. go to tutorials
Subscribe for free to the Ashford Blog
www.ashford.co.nz/blog www.youtube.com/@AshfordNz
For more information, helpful hints and inspiration we recommend The Ashford Book of Weaving
Patterns from Four to Eight Shafts. Visit our website to view our tutorial videos www.ashford.co.nz

LTWTL_En
LTWTL V2025

Ashford Handicrafts Limited

415 West Street, PO Box 474, Ashburton, New Zealand
Ph +64 3 308 9087 sales@ashford.co.nz www.ashford.co.nz
9 418647 243130