FABRIC WEIGHT/GSM MEASUREMENT

PURPOSE : To check the weight of the fabric.

METHOD NO. : ASTM D 3776 .

PROCEDURE :
 Condition the samples for 4 hrs before testing.
 Cut three pieces of test fabric from different places by using GSM(gram per square meter) cutter.
 Measure total weight of three samples.

EVALUATION :
GSM = total weight x 100
3

RESULTS : Give the average result of the three samples in grams.

FABRIC CONSTRUCTION
PURPOSE : To check the EPI(ends per inch) & PPI(picks per inch) of the woven fabric.
For Knit fabric WPI (Wales/inch) & CPI (Courses /Inch)

METHOD NO. : ASTM D 3775 (for Woven) & ASTM D3887.

PROCEDURE :
 Condition the samples for 4 hrs .
 Then Count the number of warp ends & filling yarns per inch by digital counter/ pick counting glass in three different
places.

EVALUATION :
total number of ends / picks in three different places
EPI / PPI = 3

RESULTS : Give the average result of the three different places in numbers.

Yarn count
PURPOSE : To check the fineness of yarn in the fabric.

METHOD NO. : ASTM D1059.

PROCEDURE :
 Remove the yarns from the fabric separately in the one (warp/weft) direction.
 Calculate the total number of yarns .
 Measure the length of each yarn & find the average length of the yarns .
 Measure the weight of total number of yarns .

EVALUATION :
N = total number of yarns .
L = Avg length of the yarns.(in centimeter)
W = the weight of total number of yarns .( in grams)

COUNT (Ne) = N x L x 0.00588906 ( 0.00591 )

W

RESULTS : Give the result in indirect system (Ne).

color fastness measurement

 For evaluating the fastness properties of fabric we have to follow some standard ratings system.
This are given below.

Gray Scale

RATING :

 Grade 5 – negligible or no change as shown in Gray scale step 5 .

 Grade 4/5 – change in color equivalent to Gray scale step 4-5 .

 Grade 4 – change in color equivalent to Gray scale step 4 .
 Grade 3/4 – change in color equivalent to Gray scale step 3-4 .
 Grade 3 – change in color equivalent to Gray scale step 3 .
 Grade 2/3– change in color equivalent to Gray scale step 2-3 .
 Grade 2– change in color equivalent to Gray scale step 2 .
 Grade 1/2– change in color equivalent to Gray scale step 1-2.
 Grade 1 – change in color equivalent to Gray scale step 1 .

color fastness to washing

PURPOSE : To evaluate the fabric color change and surface staining resulting from washing / laundering .
METHOD NO. : ISO 105 C06

PROCEDURE :
 Prepare the test specimen with all Shade and multi-fiber of “10 x 4” cm size.
 Attach (By Stitching) the multifiber on the face side of test specimen.
 Prepare the required solution with 1000 ml distilled water ,4 gram ECE formulation phosphate B detergent , 1 gram
sodium perborate pure(trihydrate).
 Put 150 ml prepared solution in each canister.
 Add 10 stainless steel ball to each canister.
 Adjust the gyrowash machine metioned bath temperature & preheat the solution on that temperature.
 Enter a well test specimen into each canister. Clamp the covers on the canister.
 Set the Gyrowaash machine time for 30 min. Then push Start button.
 After 30 minute automatically stop the machine , remove the canisters from gyrowash machine. Take tested
specimen and wash it in distilled water properly.
 Then remove the excess water by squeezing.
 Finally dry the sample into the air.
RESULTS : After drying give the rating of color change & color staining of the tested sample by using the Gray Scale.

color fastness to rubbing/ crocking

PURPOSE : To determine the amount of color transferred from the surface of colored fabrics to other white
fabric surfaces by rubbing.

METHOD NO. : ISO 105 X12 and AATCC 8.

PROCEDURE :
 Condition the specimen for at least 4hrs.
 Cut two specimen at least 15 X 10 cm size. Need to test all dark shade.
 Cut Crocking cloth 5 x 5 cm.
DRY and WET CROCKING TEST (ISO 105 X12 ):
 place the test specimen on the base of the crockmeter.
 Place specimen holder over specimen to prevent slippage.
 Mount a white DRY/WET square cloth over the end of the finger which projects downward from the weighted sliding
arm by spiral wire clip. position the clip with loops upward.
 For WET crocking test wet the crocking cloth upto 100% pick up before mount it .
 Lower the covered finger onto the test specimen at the front end and press the both 6 & 4 number button at a time to
complete 10 turns.
 Remove the white cloth and conditioning .
DRY and WET CROCKING TEST (AATCC 8) :
 place the test specimen on the base of the crockmeter at 45 ° with the direction of rubbing resting flat on the abrasive
cloth with its long dimension .
 Place specimen holder over specimen to prevent slippage.
 Mount a white DRY/WET square cloth over the end of the finger which projects downward from the weighted sliding
arm by spiral wire clip. position the clip with loops upward.
 For WET crocking test wet the crocking cloth upto 65% before mount it .
 Lower the covered finger onto the test specimen at the front end and press the both 6 & 4 number button at a time to
complete 10 turns.
 Remove the white cloth and conditioning .

EVALUATION :
 Rate the dry and wet crocking cloth by using the Gray Scale rating .
RESULTS : Give the result in number.

color fastness to perspiration

PURPOSE : To determine the resistance of the color of all kinds of fabric by the action of human perspiration .

METHOD NO. : ISO 105 E04 and AATCC 15.

PROCEDURE( AATCC 15):

 Cut the sample & multifibre/ single-fiber adjacent fabric 6x6 cm size .
 Sewing multifibre/ single-fiber adjacent fabric to the face of the sample.
  Take the actual weight of the Specimen with multifibre.
 Prepare the AATCC 15 solution as per below recipe.
 Wet the sample in the solution at room temperature for 30 mins in a petri dish.
 After that remove the excess liquor from the specimen through passing between two glass rods.
 Ensure the weighs of the specimen 2.25 ± 0.05 times its original weight.
 Then place the sample between two acrylic plate. This way total 21 plates put in the Perspirometer. Fixed the screw of
Perspirometer with 4.5 kg force. Then put it in the Incubator for 6 hrs at 38±1 ° C .
 Then Remove the perspirometer. All the tested sample allow to air dry.

PROCEDURE (ISO 105 E04) :

 Cut two sample & multifibre/ single-fiber adjacent fabric 4x10 cm size . One for Acidic & another for Alkaline perspiration.
 Sewing the multifibre/ single-fiber adjacent fabric to the face of the sample.
 Take the actual weight of the Specimen with multifibre.
 Prepare acidic & alkaline solution as per below mentioned ISO 150 E04 receipe..
 Wet the sample in the solution at room temperature for 30 mins in petri dish.
 After that remove the excess liquor from the specimen through passing between two glass rods.
 Ensure the weighs of the specimen 2.25 ± 0.05 times its original weight .
 Then place the sample between two acrylic plates. This way total 11 plates put in the Perspirometer. Fixed the screw of
Perspirometer with 12.5 KPa force. Then put it in the oven for 4 hrs at 37±1 ° C .
 Then Remove the perspirometer. All the tested sample allow to air dry.
PREPARATION OF ALKALINE SOLUTION ( FOR ISO 105 E04 ) :
 L-histidine mono hydrocloride mono hydrate - 0.5 grams
 Sodium cloride - 5 grams
 Disodium hydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate - 2.5 grams
 pH - 8.0

PREPARATION OF ACIDIC SOLUTION ( FOR ISO 105 E04 ) :

 L-histidine mono hydrocloride mono hydrate - 0.5 grams
 Sodium cloride - 5 grams
 Sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate - 2.2 grams
 pH - 5.5

PREPARATION OF AATCC SOLUTION ( FOR AATCC 15 ) :

 Sodium cloride - 10 ± 0.01 grams
 Lactic acid ,USP 85% - 1 ± 0.01 gram
 Sodium phosphaate ,dibasic, anhydrus - 1 ± 0.01 gram
 L-histidine mono hydrocloride mono hydrate - 0.25 ± 0.001 grams
 pH - 4.3 ±0.2

NOTE : The pH of the above solutions brought to accurate with 0.1 mol/l sodium hydroxide.

RESULTS : After drying give the rating of color change & color staining of the tested sample by using the Gray Scale.

color fastness to water

PURPOSE : To determined the resistance to water of colored fabric .

METHOD NO. : ISO 105 E01 and AATCC 107.

PROCEDURE ( AATCC 107):
 Cut the sample & multifibre / single-fiber adjacent fabric 6x6 cm size .
 Sewing the multifibre/ single-fiber adjacent fabric to the face of the sample.
 Take the actual weight of the Specimen with multifibre.
 Wet the sample in the distilled water at room temperature for 15 min .
 After that remove the excess liquor from the specimen through passing between two glass rods.
 Ensure the weighs of the specimen 2.25 ± 0.05 times its original weight .
 Then place the sample between two acrylic plates. This way total 21 plates put in the Perspirometer. Fixed the screw of
Perspirometer with 4.5 kg force. Then put it in the oven for 18hrs at 38±1 ° C .
 Then Remove the perspirometer. All the tested sample allow to air dry.

PROCEDURE (ISO 105 E01):

 Cut the sample & multifibre / single-fiber adjacent fabric 4x10 cm size .
 Sewing the multifibre/ single-fiber adjacent fabric to the face of the sample.
 Take the actual weight of the Specimen with multifibre.
 Wet the sample in the distilled water at room temperature for 30 mins .
 After that remove the excess liquor from the specimen through passing between two glass rods.
 Ensure the weighs of the specimen 2.25 ± 0.05 times its original weight .
 Then place the sample between two acrylic plates. This way total 11 plates put in the Perspirometer. Fixed the screw of
Perspirometer with 12.5 Kpa force. Then put it in the oven for 4 hrs at 37±1 ° C .
 Then Remove the perspirometer. All the tested sample allow to air dry.

RESULTS : After drying give the rating of color change & color staining of the tested sample by using the Gray Scale.

color fastness to sea water

PURPOSE : To determine the resistance to sea water of colored fabric .

TEST SOLUTION :
Sodium Chloride - 30 grams
Magnesium Chloride (anhyd.) - 5 grams
Distilled Water - 1000 ml

METHOD NO. : : AATCC 106.

PROCEDURE :
  Cut the sample & multifibre / single-fiber adjacent fabric 6x6 cm size .
 Sewing the multifibre/ single-fiber adjacent fabric to the face of the sample.
 Take the actual weight of the Specimen with multifibre.
 Wet the sample in the test solution at room temperature for 15 min .
 After that remove the excess liquor from the specimen through passing between two glass rods.
 Ensure the weighs of the specimen 2.25 ± 0.05 times its original weight .
 Then place the sample between two acrylic plates. This way total 21 plates put in the Perspirometer. Fixed the screw of
Perspirometer with 4.5 kg force. Then put it in the oven for 18hrs at 38±1 ° C .
 Then Remove the perspirometer. All the tested sample allow to air dry.

RESULTS : After drying give the rating of color change & color staining of the tested sample by using the Gray Scale .

color fastness to light

PURPOSE : To determine the resistance to light of colored fabric .

METHOD NO. : ISO 105 B02.

PROCEDURE :
 Condition the test fabric for at least 4hrs.
 Prepare the test sample and standard blue wool at least 70x20 mm size .
 First mount the standard blue wool in a standard frame .
 Place the frame onto the frame holder in the machine and Set whether the movement of the frame holder is static or
 rotational in the machine & then start the machine .
 Run the machine until the shade of the blue wool is arrived according to customer requirement and check it frequiently
during measurement by the gray scale and finally note down the time .
 Remove the blue wool sample .
 Now mount the test specimen in a standard frame .
 Place the frame onto the frame holder in the machine and Set whether the movement of the frame holder is static or
rotational in the machine & then start the machine .
 Then run the machine up to the noted time .
 After complete this procedure remove the test specimen and allow it to condition .

RESULTS : Rate the tested sample for color change by using the Gray Scale .

SEAM SLIPPAGE
PURPOSE :

 Determination of the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics.

METHOD NO. :

 ISO 13936-1, ISO 13936-2 , and ASTM D 434, ASTM D 1683.

PROCEDURE (ISO 13936-1):

  prepare five test sample with the Template size 40 x10 cm from the both warp and weft direction in the different
places of the fabric .
 Fold the each sample 110mm from one end with the parallel to the short direction of fabric.
 Sew a seam about 20mm from the crease of fold using the sewing thread .
 Make 11 plain lock stitches.
 Cut each seamed sample 12mm from the sewn seam line cutting through both layers of the fabric.
 Cut the each sample 110 mm from the fold line parallel to seam and get two test sample one is with lock-stitch seam &
other without lock-stitch seam .
 Set the machine at seam slippage FOR ISO 13936-1 ,Set the jaw face size 25 mm , Put the customer details and
forward it .
 Test the 5 weft direction( warp over weft ) sample in the machine first then 5 warp direction ( weft over warp ) sample
simultaneously.
 Clamp the unseamed portion of the sample first then seamed portion of the test sample.
 Set the sample in the machine & Select start button then clamp the upper jaw through F2 button and clamp the lower
jaw through F3 button , Finally select F9 button to start and get the results.
 To continue this process select F9 button again.
 Repeat this procedure with the rest test samples .
 After completing the testing save the results and go to Last option by the F8 button to view the results

EVALUATION :

 Report the mean of the five warp slippage & weft slippage result directly from the computer software as load /
force equivalent to a seam opening of 6 mm.

RESULTS :

 Give the result in the unit of force and give a condition at the seam ( if needed) .

PROCEDURE (ISO ISO 13936-2 ):

 prepare five test sample with the Template size 25 x10 cm from the both warp and weft direction in the different
places of the fabric .
 Fold the each sample 125 mm from one end with the parallel to the short direction of fabric.
 Sew a seam about 20mm from the crease of fold using the sewing thread .
 Make 11 plain lock stitches.
 Cut 8 mm each seamed sample then left 12mm from the sewn seam line cutting through both layers of the fabric.
 Set the machine at fabric tensile FOR ISO 13936-2 , Set the jaw face size 25 mm ,Put the customer details and
forward it .
 Test the 5 weft direction ( warp over weft ) sample in the machine first then 5 warp direction
( weft over warp ) sample simultaneously .
 Clamp the seamed portion of the test sample.
 Set the sample in the machine & Select start button then clamp the upper jaw through F2 button and clamp the lower
jaw through F3 button , Finally select F9 button to start and get the results.
 To continue this process select F9 button again.
 Repeat this procedure with the rest test samples .
 After completing the testing save the results and go to Last option by the F8 button to view the results.

EVALUATION :
  Report the mean of the five warp slippage & weft slippage result directly from the computer software as
extension ( in mm )equivalent to a seam opening of 6 mm.

RESULTS :
 Give the result in the unit of extension ( in mm )and give a condition at the seam ( if needed) .

PROCEDURE (ASTM D 434):

 prepare five test sample with the Template size 35x10 cm from the both warp and weft direction in the different
places of the fabric .
 Fold the each sample 100mm from one end with the parallel to the short direction of fabric.
 Sew a seam about 13 mm from the crease of fold using the sewing thread .
 Make 14 ± 1/2 plain lock stitches.
 Cut 6 mm each seamed sample then left 7 mm from the sewn seam line cutting through both layers of the fabric.
 Set the machine at seam slippage FOR ASTM D 434 , Set the jaw face size 25 mm ,Put the customer details and
forward it .
 Test the 5 weft direction ( warp over weft ) sample in the machine first then 5 warp direction ( weft over warp ) sample
simultaneously.
 Clamp the unseamed portion of the sample first then seamed portion of the test sample.
 Set the sample in the machine & Select start button then clamp the upper jaw through F2 button and clamp the lower
jaw through F3 button , Finally select F9 button to start and get the results.
 To continue this process select F9 button again.
 Repeat this procedure with the rest test samples .
 After completing the testing save the results and go to Last option by the F8 button to view the results

EVALUATION :
 Report the mean of the five warp slippage & weft slippage result directly from the computer software as load /
force equivalent to a seam opening of 6.4 mm.

RESULTS :
 Give the result in the unit of force and give a condition at the seam ( if needed) .

PROCEDURE (ASTM D 1683 ):

 prepare five test sample with the Template size 35x10 cm from the both warp and weft direction in the different places
of the fabric .
 Fold the each sample 100mm from one end with the parallel to the short direction of fabric.
 Sew a seam about 20mm from the crease of fold using the sewing thread .
 Make 11 plain lock stitches. Here is no need to cut the seamed portion.
 Set the machine at seam slippage FOR ASTM D 1683 ,Set the jaw face size 25 mm , Put the customer details and
forward it .
 Test the 5 weft direction ( warp over weft ) sample in the machine first then 5 warp direction ( weft over warp ) sample
simultaneously.
 Clamp the unseamed portion of the sample first then seamed portion of the test sample.
 Set the sample in the machine & Select start button then clamp the upper jaw through F2 button and clamp the lower
jaw through F3 button , Finally select F9 button to start and get the results.
 To continue this process select F9 button again.
 Repeat this procedure with the rest test samples .
  After completing the testing save the results and go to Last option by the F8 button to view the results.

EVALUATION :
 Report the mean of the five warp slippage & weft slippage result directly from the computer software as load /
force equivalent to a seam opening of 6 mm.

RESULTS :
 Give the result in the unit of force and give a condition at the seam ( if needed) .

SEAM strength
PURPOSE : Determination of maximum force to seam rupture of the fabric.

METHOD NO. : ISO 13935-2, ASTM D 434 , ASTM D 1683.

PROCEDURE ( ISO 13935-2 ):

 prepare five test sample with the Template size 25 x10 cm from the both warp and weft direction in the different places
of the fabric .
 Fold the each sample 125 mm from one end with the parallel to the short direction of fabric.
 Sew a seam about 20mm from the crease of fold using the sewing thread .
 Make 11 plain lock stitches.
 Cut 8 mm each seamed sample then left 12mm from the sewn seam line cutting through both layers of the fabric.
 Set the machine at fabric tensile FOR ISO 13935-2 , Set the jaw face size 25 mm ,Put the customer details and
forward it .
 Test the 5 weft direction( warp over weft ) sample in the machine first then 5 warp direction
( weft over warp ) sample simultaneously .
 Set the sample in the machine & Select start button then clamp the upper jaw through F2 button and clamp the lower
jaw through F3 button ,clamp the seamed sample in the jaws ensuring that the seam is midway between and parallel to
the jaws, Finally select F9 button to start and get the results.
 To continue this process select F9 button again.
 Repeat this procedure with the rest test samples .
 After completing the testing save the results and go to Last option by the F8 button to view the results
EVALUATION :
  Report the mean of the five warp slippage & weft slippage result directly from the computer software as load /
force equivalent to a seam opening of 6 mm.

RESULTS :

 Give the result in the unit of force and give a condition at the seam ( if needed) .

PROCEDURE (ASTM D 434):

 prepare five test sample with the Template size 35x10 cm from the both warp and weft direction in the different
places of the fabric .
 Fold the each sample 100mm from one end with the parallel to the short direction of fabric.
 Sew a seam about 13 mm from the crease of fold using the sewing thread .
 Make 14 ± 1/2 plain lock stitches.
 Cut 6 mm each seamed sample then left 7 mm from the sewn seam line cutting through both layers of the fabric.
 Set the machine at seam slippage FOR ASTM D 434 , Set the jaw face size 25 mm ,Put the customer details and
forward it .
 Test the 5 weft direction ( warp over weft ) sample in the machine first then 5 warp direction ( weft over warp ) sample
simultaneously.
 Clamp the unseamed portion of the sample first then seamed portion of the test sample.
 Set the sample in the machine & Select start button then clamp the upper jaw through F2 button and clamp the lower
jaw through F3 button , Finally select F9 button to start and get the results.
 To continue this process select F9 button again.
 Repeat this procedure with the rest test samples .
 After completing the testing save the results and go to Last option by the F8 button to view the results
EVALUATION :
 Report the mean of the five warp slippage & weft slippage result directly from the computer software as load /
force equivalent to a seamed portion .
RESULTS :
 Give the result in the unit of force and give a condition at the seam ( if needed) .

PROCEDURE (ASTM D 1683 ):

 prepare five test sample with the Template size 35x10 cm from the both warp and weft direction in the different
places of the fabric .
 Fold the each sample 100mm from one end with the parallel to the short direction of fabric.
 Sew a seam about 20mm from the crease of fold using the sewing thread .
 Make 11 plain lock stitches . Here is no need to cut the seamed portion.
 Set the machine at seam slippage FOR ASTM D 1683 , Set the jaw face size 25 mm ,Put the customer details and
forward it .
 Test the 5 weft direction ( warp over weft ) sample in the machine first then 5 warp direction ( weft over warp ) sample
simultaneously.
 Clamp the unseamed portion of the sample first then seamed portion of the test sample.
 Set the sample in the machine & Select start button then clamp the upper jaw through F2 button and clamp the lower
jaw through F3 button , Finally select F9 button to start and get the results.
 To continue this process select F9 button again.
 Repeat this procedure with the rest test samples .
 After completing the testing save the results and go to Last option by the F8 button to view the results
EVALUATION :
 Report the mean of the five warp slippage & weft slippage result directly from the computer software as load /
force equivalent to a seamed portion .
RESULTS :
  Give the result in the unit of force and give a condition at the seam ( if needed) .

TENSILE strength
PURPOSE : Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force to rupture of the fabric.

METHOD NO. : ISO 13934-1 , ISO 13934-2, ASTM D 5034.

PROCEDURE ( ISO 13934-1 , STRIP METHOD ):

 prepare five test sample with the Template size 300x60 mm from the both warp and weft direction in the different
places of the fabric
 Then threads shall be removed in approximately equal number or 5 mm from both of the long edges of the samples
until the width of the sample become 50 mm , length should be remain 300 mm.
 Set the machine at fabric tensile FOR ISO 13934-1 (200 mm 100 mm/min) ,Set the jaw face size 75 mm, Put the
customer details and forward it .
 Test the 5 warp direction sample in the machine first then 5 weft direction sample simultaneously .
 Set the sample in the machine & Select start button then clamp the upper jaw through F2 button and clamp the lower
jaw through F3 button , Finally select F9 button to start and get the results.
 To continue this process select F9 button again.
 Repeat this procedure with the rest test samples .
 After completing the testing save the results and go to Last option by the F8 button to view the results.
EVALUATION :
 Report the mean of the five warp tensile strength & weft tensile strength result directly from the computer
software as load / force equivalent to a tensile strength .
RESULTS :
 Give the result in the unit of force .

PROCEDURE ( ISO 13934-2 , GRAB METHOD ):

 prepare five test sample with the Template size 150x100 mm from the both warp and weft direction in the different
places of the fabric .
 Set the machine at fabric tensile FOR ISO 13934-2 (75 mm) ,Set the jaw face size 25 mm ,Put the customer details
and forward it .
 Test the 5 warp direction sample in the machine first then 5 weft direction sample simultaneously .
 Set the sample in the machine & Select start button then clamp the upper jaw through F2 button and clamp the lower
 jaw through F3 button , Finally select F9 button to start and get the results.
 To continue this process select F9 button again.
 Repeat this procedure with the rest test samples .
 After completing the testing save the results and go to Last option by the F8 button to view the warp tensile strength &
weft tensile strength results .
EVALUATION :
 Report the mean of the five warp tensile strength & weft tensile strength result directly from the computer
software as load / force equivalent to a tensile strength .
RESULTS :
 Give the result in the unit of force .

PROCEDURE ( ASTM D 5034 ):

 prepare eight test sample with the Template size 150x100 mm from the both warp and weft direction in the different
places of the fabric .
 Set the machine at fabric tensile FOR ASTM D 5034 ,Set the jaw face size 25 mm ,Put the customer details and
forward it .
 Test the 8 warp direction sample in the machine first then 8 weft direction sample simultaneously .
 Set the sample in the machine & Select start button then clamp the upper jaw through F2 button and clamp the lower
jaw through F3 button , Finally select F9 button to start and get the results.
 To continue this process select F9 button again.
 Repeat this procedure with the rest test samples .
 After completing the testing save the results and go to Last option by the F8 button to view the warp tensile strength
& weft tensile strength results .
EVALUATION :
 Report the mean of eight warp tensile strength & weft tensile strength result directly from the computer
software as load / force equivalent to a tensile strength .
RESULTS :
 Give the result in the unit of force

TEar strength
PURPOSE :Determination of the force required to propagate a single-rip tear starting from a cut in a
fabric.
METHOD NO. : ISO 13937-1 , ASTM D 1424 .

PROCEDURE ( ISO 13937-1 ):

 prepare five test sample with the Template size 100x63 mm from the both warp and weft direction in the different
places of the fabric .
 Set the appropriate weight in the machine according to quality of the fabrics for tearing .
 Then selecting the direction of the fabric which is to be torn in the machine.
 Place the long sides of the test sample centrally in the clamps with bottom edge set against stop, the test sample should
lie free with its upper area .
 Using the built-in knife blade cut a 20±2 mm slit in the specimen at the bottom leaving 43±2 mm to be torn .
 Release the pendulum to its forward swing by pressing the two button at a time ,catch the pendulum after its backward
swing and return to its starting position .
 Finally after getting results save it in the machine .
EVALUATION :
 Report the mean of five warp tear strength & weft tear strength result directly from the Elmatear digital tear
tester machine as load / force equivalent to a tear strength .

RESULTS :
 Give the result in the unit of force

PROCEDURE ( ASTM D 1424 ):

 prepare five test sample with the Template size 100x63 mm from the both warp and weft direction in the different
places of the fabric .
 Set the appropriate weight in the machine according to quality of the fabrics for tearing .
 Then selecting the direction of the fabric which is to be torn in the machine.
 Place the long sides of the test sample centrally in the clamps with bottom edge set against stop, the test sample should
lie free with its upper area .
 Using the built-in knife blade cut a 20±2 mm slit in the specimen at the bottom leaving 43±2 mm to be torn .
 Release the pendulum to its forward swing by pressing the two button at a time ,catch the pendulum after its backward
swing and return to its starting position .
 Finally after getting results save it in the machine .

EVALUATION :
 Report the mean of five warp tear strength & weft tear strength result directly from the Elmatear digital tear
tester machine as load / force equivalent to a tear strength .

RESULTS :
 Give the result in the unit of force .
 pilling test
PURPOSE : Determination of the resistance to pilling and surface change of textile fabrics.

METHOD NO. : ISO 12945-2 , ISO 12945-1 ,ASTM D 3512

PROCEDURE ( ISO 12945-1 ) :

 prepare four test specimen 125X125 mm by the pilling Template .
 Then fold it at the middle position and stitch the two open ends at 10 mm from the open ends.
 Insert the sample onto a tube keeping its open ends inwards to the tube .
 Attach white tape (adhesive) at the two ends of a tube onto the test sample for firm gripping.
 Now Put the test sample in the box of the machine .
 Set the RPM of the machine according to customer requirement and start the machine.
 After complete the revolution remove the test specimens from the machine .
 Then put the test samples into the Pilling Assessment viewer for getting the results.

EVALUATION :
 Record the grading for each specimen and mean the results by the standard Visual assessment .

: STANDARD VISUAL ASSESSMENT :

Grade Description
5 No Pilling
4 Slight Pilling
3 Moderate Pilling
2 Severe Pilling
1 Very Severe Pilling

RESULTS :
 Give the result in Number.
PROCEDURE ( ISO 12945-2 ) :
 prepare three sets of test specimen with 142 mm diameter by the pilling cutter for the specimen holder .
 Set the three pins (different placed) at the point C (corner side ) separately in the Martindale pilling tester.
 Mount one test specimen in the pilling table by the clamping ring above the specimen and mount the other test
specimen in the specimen holder body by an Auxiliary device .
 Then mount the specimen holder on the pilling table by an Additional loading weight (12 kPa) .
 Set the revolution in the machine is to be needed for different types of fabrics.
 Then to select start option in the machine to continue the process.
 After complete the revolution remove the test specimens from the machine .
 Then put the test samples into the Pilling Assessment viewer for getting the results.

EVALUATION :
 Record the grading for each specimen and mean the results by the standard Visual assessment .

: STANDARD VISUAL ASSESSMENT :

Grade Description
5 No Pilling
4 Slight Pilling
3 Moderate Pilling
2 Severe Pilling
1 Very Severe Pilling

RESULTS :
 Give the result in Number.
PROCEDURE ( ASTM D 3512 ) :
 prepare three test specimen 105X105 mm on the bias at an approximate 45° angle to the warp & weft direction .
 Cut & Revel the both sides of the test sample up to 5 mm with leaving the fringe .
 Seal the edges of the test samples up to 3 mm on the face of the fabric with adhesive .
 Hang the test fabrics at least 2 hour on the racks until dry.
 Bring the test specimen and cork liners to moisture equilibrium in the atmosphere.
 Place three specimen and 25 mg of 6 mm gray-dyed cotton fiber into the test chamber .
 Place the cover on the chamber & Set the timer for 30 min.
 Turn the motor switch to “ON” & push the START button and start the airflow.
 Clean off the excess cotton fiber that is not actually entangled in pills by the Vacuum cleaner.
 After complete the revolution remove the test specimens from the machine .
 Then put the test samples into the Pilling Assessment viewer for getting the results.

EVALUATION :
 Record the grading for each specimen and mean the results by the standard Visual assessment .

: STANDARD VISUAL ASSESSMENT :

“Grade”
Grade” “Description”
5 No Pilling
4 Slight Pilling
3 Moderate Pilling
2 Severe Pilling
1 Very Severe Pilling

RESULTS :
 Give the result in Number.

Abrasion resistance test

PROCEDURE ( ISO 12947-2 ) :
 prepare three test specimen with 38 mm diameter by the cutter .
 Set the three pins (different placed) at the point B (middle point ) separately in the Martindale tester.
 Mount the test specimens in the specimen holder body by an Auxiliary device .
 Then put the specimen holder on the table which containing wool abradant fabric by an Additional loading weight
(9 kPa) such that the face side of the fabric touch with the wool abradant fabric.
 Set the revolution in the machine is to be needed for different types of fabrics as per customer requirement.
 Then to select start option in the machine to continue the process.
 After complete the revolution remove the test specimens from the machine .
 Finally give a command on the basis of the fabric face appearance.

EVALUATION :
 Record the condition whether threads of the test fabrics break or not .
RESULTS :
 Give the result in OK or NOT OK ..

p h MEASUREMENT
PURPOSE : Determination of pH of the water-extract from wet processed textile fabrics .

METHOD NO. : ISO 3071 , AATCC 81.

PROCEDURE ( ISO 3071 ) :

 Use a 2±0.1 gram specimen from the fabric and cut the sample into small pieces ( less than 5mm size ).
 Put the sample into the flask which containing 100 ml distilled water.
 Thus prepare 3 test sample in 3 individual flask with 100 ml distilled water per flask .
 Put the three flask in the Rotary flask shaker machine and set the run time for 120 min with 60 RPM.
 After complete the revolution remove the flask from the machine and collect the water (only) from each flask into the
each 100ml beaker.
 Then before measurement of pH we have to calibrate the pH meter for getting accurate reading .
 Then put the each water solution beaker one by one in the pH meter and press the READ button in the machine during
the measurement of each solution pH & finally get the result .

EVALUATION :
 Measure the three solutions pH .
 If two measurement are nearly equal between the three measurement of solutions then take the average of two
measurement .
 If three measurement are unequal then do the procedure again in the same way .

RESULTS :
 Give the results in Numerical value .
PROCEDURE ( AATCC 81 ) :
 Use a 10±0.1 gram specimen from the fabric and cut the sample into small pieces ( less than 5mm size ).
 Boil 250 ml distilled water in the beaker at a moderate rate for 10 min .
 After 10 min Put the sample into the beaker which containing boiled distilled water .
 Cover the beaker with a watch glass and boil it for an additional 10 min .
 Allow to cool the water in the beaker at room temperature.
 Collect the water solution (only) from the beaker into the 100 ml beaker.
  Then before measurement of pH we have to calibrate the pH meter for getting accurate reading .
 Then put the 100 ml beaker in the pH meter and press the READ button in the machine before the measurement of pH
of the solution & finally get the result .

EVALUATION :
 Measure the pH of the solution from the digital screen of the pH meter .

RESULTS :
 Give the result in Numerical value .

Dimensional stability to washing

PURPOSE : Determination of dimensional ( shrinkage ) changes of fabric after washing .

METHOD NO. : ISO 6330 , AATCC 135 .

PROCEDURE ( AATCC 135 ) :

 Condition the samples for 4 hrs before testing.
 prepare a test sample of 380X380 mm or 610X610 mm size from the fabric by the benchmarks .
 Mark test specimen with 250 mm or 460 mm pairs of benchmarks parallel to the length & width of the test specimen by
 the benchmarks .
 Weight the test specimen and add some ballast (dummy cloth) to make a 1.8±0.1 kg load.
 Select the washing (front loading type or top loading type ) procedure to be use as per customer requirement .
 Place the test sample with the ballasts in the washing machine and set the washer for the selected washing cycle & time
with adding sufficient Non Phosphate ECE detergent A .
 After complete the wash remove the test sample with the ballasts and Allow it to dry .
 Before going to dry select the appropriate drying ( tumble dry / line dry / Drip dry / Flat dry ) method to be use as per
customer requirement .
 After drying allow the test sample to be condition .
 Finally measure the dimensional change with take care of neither stretched nor distorted the test specimen.
EVALUATION :
Avg DC (%) = (B – A) x 100
A
Where
DC = Dimensional change
A = Original dimension
B = dimension after washing
PROCEDURE ( ISO 6330 ) :
 Condition the samples for 4 hrs before testing.
 prepare a test sample of 500X500 mm size from the fabric by the benchmarks .
 Mark test specimen with 350 mm pairs of benchmarks parallel to the length & width of the test specimen by the
benchmarks .
 Weight the test specimen and add some ballast (dummy cloth) to make a 1.8±0.1 kg load.
 Select the washing (front loading type or top loading type ) procedure to be use as per customer requirement .
 Place the test sample with the ballasts in the washing machine and set the washer for the selected washing cycle & time
with adding sufficient Non Phosphate ECE detergent A .
 After complete the wash remove the test sample with the ballasts and Allow it to dry .
 Before going to dry select the appropriate drying ( tumble dry / line dry / Drip dry / Flat dry ) method to be use as per
customer requirement .
 After drying allow the test sample to be condition .
 Finally measure the dimensional change with take care of neither stretched nor distorted the test specimen.
EVALUATION :
Avg DC (%) = (B – A) x 100
A
Where
DC = Dimensional change
A = Original dimension
B = dimension after washing

skewness measurement

PURPOSE : Determination of skewness in fabric after washing .

METHOD NO. - AATCC 179

PROCEDURE ( AATCC 179 ) :

 Condition the samples for 4 hrs before testing.
 prepare a test sample of 380X380 mm or 610X610 mm size from the fabric by the benchmarks .
 Mark test specimen with 250 mm or 460 mm pairs of benchmarks parallel to the length & width of the test specimen by
 the benchmarks .
 Then draw a line through each of the four sets of adjacent bench marks so that a square is formed and label corner as
A B, C & D in clockwise direction starting with lower left corner .
 Weight the test specimen and add some ballast (dummy cloth) to make a 1.8±0.1 kg load.
 Select the washing (front loading type or top loading type ) procedure to be use as per customer requirement .
 Place the test sample with the ballasts in the washing machine and set the washer for the selected washing cycle & time
with adding sufficient Non Phosphate ECE detergent A .
 After complete the wash remove the test sample with the ballasts and Allow it to dry .
 Before going to dry select the appropriate drying ( tumble dry / line dry / Drip dry / Flat dry ) method to be use as per
customer requirement .
 After drying allow the test sample to be condition .
 Finally measure the length of AC & BD from the square which is drawn in the fabric with take care of neither
stretched nor distorted the test specimen .

EVALUATION :
2( AC – BD ) x 100
Skewness ( % ) = ( AC + BD )

durable press / appearance measurement

PURPOSE : Determination of appearance in fabric after washing .

METHOD NO. - AATCC 124 .

PROCEDURE ( AATCC 124 ) :

 Condition the samples for 4 hrs before testing.
 prepare three test sample of 380X380 mm size from the fabric parallel to the length and width of the fabric .
 Stitch the test sample through the whole ends of the perimeter of the test sample .
 Weight the test specimen and add some ballast (dummy cloth) to make a 1.8±0.1 kg load.
 Select the washing (front loading type or top loading type ) procedure to be use as per customer requirement .
  Place the test sample with the ballasts in the washing machine and set the washer for the selected washing cycle & time
with adding sufficient Non Phosphate ECE detergent A .
 After complete the wash remove the test sample with the ballasts and Allow it to dry .
 Before going to dry select the appropriate drying ( tumble dry / line dry / Drip dry / Flat dry ) method to be use as per
customer requirement .
 After drying allow the test sample to be condition .

EVALUATION :
 Rate the tested sample with comparing the Standard AATCC 3-D smoothness appearance replicas by viewing the
sample in fluorescent light .

SA Replicas

Grade Description
SA- 5 Very smooth ,pressed ,finished appearance
SA- 4 Smooth , finished appearance
SA- 3.5 Fairly Smooth ,non-pressed appearance
SA- 3 Mussed , non-pressed appearance
SA- 2 Rumpled , obviously wrinkled appearance
SA- 1 Crumpled , creased and severely wrinkled appearance

Fiber composition analysis

PURPOSE : Identification of raw fiber which taken from yarn of the fabric .

METHOD NO. : ISO 1833

PROCEDURE ( ISO 1833 ) :

 Remove few number of yarns in the warp & weft direction from the test fabric .
 Cut the yarns into small dust like pieces with the scissor and put it onto a slide .
 Then add one drop of Glisarol on the slide and mix with the fiber properly .
 Place the slide into the microscope and switch on the power of the microscope .
  Adjust the slide in the microscope to see the clear longitudinal view of the fiber in the screen of the microscope.

EVALUATION :
Report the type of fiber comparing with the Photomicrographs of common textile fiber .