E-388

05-06

Location of Bust Fullness

Pattern
Alteration

B efore attempting this alteration, study Extension

publications E-372, Principles of Pattern Alteration,
and E-373, Personal Measurement Chart, for basic instruc-
tions.
If the bust darts of a garment are not correctly posi-
tioned on the figure, the bodice will have horizontal and di-
agonal wrinkles across the front. Also, the darts may pucker
at the tip (Fig. 1).

Extension Family Development

and Resource Management Specialists

Figure 1.

Bodice with Darts

Darts should point toward the fullest part of the bust,
ending ½ to 1 ½ inches (1 to 4 cm) from its tip. This depends
on the garment style, your figure and personal preference.
The Personal Measurement Chart (line 6) can help you deter-
mine the position of your bust point on the pattern. If your
measurement and the pattern bust point location differ, you
need an alteration.
1. To find the bust point on a basic pattern, extend the
center lines of the darts until they cross (Fig. 2). If
the pattern has only one bust dart, extend the center
line approximately 1 ½ inches. Measure the pattern
and compare it to line 6 of your chart (Fig. 3). An-
other way to locate the bust point correctly is to lay
the pattern over a basic pattern that has been altered
to fit. Use the basic pattern to locate the bust point
2 .................................................................................................................................................................................

correctly on the pattern that needs to be altered. De-

Bodice termine the difference in dart placements by measur-
front
ing between the actual location and the place where
Bust point
you need to put the dart or darts.
Bodice To lower bust darts:
front
2. Draw a line across the pattern between the darts and
the armhole. Put it at a right angle to the lengthwise
Figure 2. Bust grainline or the center front (Figs. 4a and 4b). On
point
some styles, you may need to angle this line at the
armhole to avoid the sleeve area (Fig. 4c).
Figure 3.
3. Draw a line across the pattern between the tips of the
darts and the waistline at a right angle to the length-
wise grainline or the center front. Measure down by
Bodice the amount you need for the alteration, drawing a
front Dress second line parallel to this line (Figs. 4a, 4b and 4c).
front
4. Slash the pattern along the line above the darts. Place
tissue paper under the pattern. Evenly spread the pat-
tern by the amount you need, keeping the center front
straight (Figs. 5a, 5b and 5c).
Figure 4a. Figure 4b. 5. Lap the pattern below the dart tips by bringing the
parallel lines together to maintain the original length
(Figs. 5a, 5b and 5c).
6. Redraw the side seam, and the cutting lines and dart
Bodice
stitching lines (Figs. 5a, 5b and 5c).
front
To raise bust darts:
2. Draw a line across the pattern between the darts and
the armhole at a right angle to the lengthwise grain-
line or center front. Measure down by the amount you
Figure 4c. need for the alteration, drawing a second line parallel
to the first (Figs. 6a and 6b). On some styles, the lines
may need to be angled down from the armhole (Fig.
6c).
Bodice
front Dress Bodice
Spread Dress
front front
Spread front
Lap

Lap

Figure 5a. Figure 5b.

Figure 6a. Figure 6b.

Bodice
front
Bodice
front
Spread

Lap

Figure 5c. Figure 6c.

................................................................................................................................................................................ 3

3. Draw a line across the pattern between the tips of the

darts and the waistline at a right angle to the length-
wise grainline or the center front (Figs. 6a, 6b and 6c). Bodice
Dress
front Lap
4. Lap the pattern above the darts by bringing the paral- front
Lap Spread
lel lines together. If the lines are angled (Fig. 6c), slash
the pattern from the side seam to the angle along one
Spread
of the lines. Then lap the pattern on the horizontal
lines, allowing the cut section to lap as needed (Figs.
7a, 7b and 7c). Figure 7a. Figure 7b.

5. Slash the pattern along the line below the dart tips.
Place tissue paper under the pattern. Spread the pat-
tern by the amount you need to maintain the original
Bodice
length, keeping the center front straight. Tape the pat- front
tern in place.
6. Redraw the side seam, and the cutting lines and dart Lap
stitching lines (Figs. 7a, 7b and 7c). Spread

Figure 7c.

Princess Style Bodice

The fullest part of the bust allowance on princess style
garments normally falls halfway between the notches on the
princess seams. Determine the correct location for the bust
fullness by marking the bust point on the pattern. (Use the Bodice
front
same method as you do for bodice patterns with one dart.)
To lower bust fullness:
1. On the center front section, draw a line at a right Bodice
angle to the center front right above the upper notch. side
On the side front section, draw a line from above the front
upper notch to the side seamline (Fig. 8).
2. On the center front section, draw a line at a right
angle to the center front just below the lower notch.
Measure down by the amount you need for the altera-
Figure 8.
tion and draw a second line parallel to the first. On
the side front section, draw two straight lines just
below the lower notch. At the princess seamline, the Spread
two lines should be as far apart as the amount you
need for the alteration. The lines should meet at the
side seamline (Fig. 8). Bodice
3. Slash the center front section apart along the upper front
line. Then slash the side front section along the upper Spread
line from the princess seamline to, but not through, the
side seamline. Clip the side seam allowance at that
point.
4. Place tissue paper under the pattern pieces. Evenly
spread the center front section by the amount you Bodice
side
need, keeping the center front straight. Spread the front
side front section by the amount you need at the prin-
cess seamline, tapering it toward the side seamline. Figure 9.
The clipped seam allowance will lap (Fig. 9).
 4 .................................................................................................................................................................................

5. Using the lower pair of lines, lap the center front sec-
tion by bringing the parallel lines together to maintain
Bodice the original length. On the side front section, clip the
front side seam allowance where the lower pair of lines
meets. Lap the pattern by bringing the lines together,
tapering them toward the side seamline. The clipped
seam allowance will spread (Fig. 10). Tape the pattern
in place.
Spread Lap
Bodice
Lap
6. Redraw the side, and the princess seamlines and
side cutting lines. Redraw the grainline on the side front
front Bodice
front section (Fig. 11).
Figure 10. To raise bust fullness:
1. On the center front section, draw a line at a right
Bodice
side
angle to the center front just above the upper notch.
front Measure up by the amount of alteration you need,
drawing a second line above and parallel to the first.
On the side front section, draw two straight lines from
above the upper notch to the side seamline. At the
princess seamline, the two lines should be as far apart
Bodice Figure 11.
front as the amount you need for the alteration. The lines
should meet at the side seamline (Fig. 12).

Bodice
2. On the center front section, draw a line at a right
side angle to the center front just below the lower notch.
front Draw a line across the side front section below the
lower notch to the side seamline (Fig. 12).
Lap
Bodice 3. Lap the center front section by bringing the parallel
front
lines together. On the side front section, clip the side
Figure 12. Lap seam allowance where the upper pair of lines meets.
Lap the pattern by bringing the lines together, taper-
Spread Bodice ing them toward the side seamline (Fig. 13).
side
front 4. Slash the center front section apart along the lower
line. Then slash the side front section from the prin-
cess seamline to, but not through, the side seamline.
Clip the side seam allowance at that point.
Bodice
front Figure 13. 5. Place tissue paper under the pattern pieces. Evenly
spread the center front section by the amount you
need to maintain the original length. Spread the side
front section by the amount you need at the prin-
Bodice
side cess seamline, tapering it toward the side seam. The
Lap front clipped seam allowance will lap (Fig. 14). Tape the
pattern in place.
Bodice
front 6. Redraw the side, and the princess seamlines and
Spread cutting lines. Redraw the grainline on the side front
Figure 14. section (Fig. 15).
Bodice
side
front

Figure 15.
 Ann Vanderpoorten wrote the original manuscript for this publication.
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Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as amended, and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the United States Department
of Agriculture. Edward G. Smith, Director, Texas Cooperative Extension, The Texas A&M University System.
Revised