HABLON WEAVING
DESCRIPTION
Hablon is a handwoven textile from Iloilo traditionally made with
a handloom using natural fibers such as abaca, piña, and cotton.
The term hablon comes from the Hiligaynon word “habol”, which
means “to weave”, and it can be used to describe both the
process of weaving and the fabric itself.
Because of its beautiful designs, Iloilo hablon has been sourced by
designers all over the world. It is typically used to create high-
quality apparel, including shawls, patadyong (wraparound skirt),
and formal wear such as gowns.
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND
Hablon weaving had already been established in Iloilo before the
Spaniards arrived in the 16th century, observing that the region
was a big supplier of cotton and other textiles.
By the 19th century, Iloilo was known as the “textile capital of the
Philippines ” with a thriving industry that produced fabric for the
local and international markets. The towns of Miagao, Oton,
Igbaras, Badiangan, and Dueñas in particular have a rich hablon
weaving history.
However, as machine-woven textiles became popular, there was
a decline in the demand for handwoven textiles like hablon. At
the same time, handloom parts were harder to come by, making it
hard for weaver communities to repair their looms. By the 1980s
weavers were forced to switch to other professions to make a
living.
Thankfully, things took a turn for the better in the early 2000s,
when the Iloilo government joined forces with the Department of
Tourism to revive the industry. Through the efforts of local artisan
communities, the hablon textile is now reaching even higher
heights of fame all over the world.
ARTIST/S
ELDA HABLON - is a president of the association of a The
Cabayogan Women Loom Weavers Association in Badiangan
Iloilo,she is a master weaver and mother of four. As a young
child watching her mother weave, it sparked a sense of
empowerment for her knowing that weaving helped put food
on the table and at the same time, it was a remarkable work
of art.
PROSESES USED
Before the weaving process begins, the materials for hablon
weaving are prepared by the artisans. These consist of yarn,
which are traditionally made from cotton, abaca, and piña. With
the rise of cheap hablon materials, polyester has also become
popular – despite having a greater impact on the environment.
To make hablon, weavers first pick and arrange yarn to create the
desired pattern. The yarns are then set up on the warping frame
and passed through the heddle, which guides the yarns during the
weaving process.
Each yarn is then inserted through an opening in a metal reed and
tied to the cloth roll, which is the wooden cane at the base of the
loom. Once the handloom is set up, the weft yarn is spooled onto
the shuttle with a spooling wheel.
The weaver then uses the bamboo pedal to raise and lower the
heddle, propelling the weft across the loom with the shuttle.
Finally, the weft is pushed by the reed, and the process repeats
until the hablon weave is completed.
PATADYONG WEAVING
DESCRIPTION
Patadayong is a traditional handwoven fabric from Iloilo,
often used for making skirts, blouses, and other garments.
The fabric is known for its colorful patterns and durability.
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND
Patadyong weaving has been practiced for centuries in the
Visayan region. It is deeply embedded in local culture and
was historically used for both everyday wear and
ceremonial attire. The art form reflects the region’s rich
heritage and craftmanship.
ARTIST/S
The craft od Patadyong weaving is typically performed by
local weavers, oftenin communities such as Miagao and
Lambunao. Notable weavers include the Dul-an family,
who are recognized for their skilled craftmanship.
PROCESSES USES
Designing: Create a pattern and color scheme for the
fabric.
Prepapring the Loom: Set up the loom with threads and
arrange them according to the design.
Weaving: Use traditonal techniques to weave the threads
into fabric, creating patterns.
Finishing: Clean and sometimes dye the woven fabric to
enhance its appearance.
T’NALAK
DESCRIPTION
T’nalak hand-woven cloth fabric is known for its intricate designs,
which are dyed using a resist-dyeing technique.The designs are
typically abstract patterns inspired by nature and the dreams of the
weavers, often featuring geometric shapes and human figures. The
colors are traditionally black, red and white.
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND
T’nalak weaving is a centures-old tradition among the T’boli people, an
indigenous group in South Cotabato, Mindanao. The T’boli believe that
the patterns used in the weaving process are given to the weavers by
"Fu Dalu," the spirit of abaca. These patterns are said to come to the
weavers in their dreams, making T'nalak weaving not just an art form
but a spiritual practice as well. The cloth has historically been used in
important ceremonies, such as weddings and rituals, and is a symbol of
wealth and status.
ARTIST
The most notable T'nalak weavers are the women of the T'boli
community, often referred to as "Dream Weavers." One of the most
famous T'boli weavers is Lang Dulay, who was recognized as a National
Living Treasure by the Philippine government for her mastery of the
craft. She is renowned for her ability to create complex and unique
patterns, many of which are now considered cultural treasures.(
PROCESSES USED
The process of creating T'nalak is labor-intensive and can take several
months to complete. It begins with the harvesting of abaca fibers,
which are then stripped and dried. The fibers are spun into threads and
dyed using a tie-dye technique called "ikat." The threads are tied and
dipped in dye multiple times to create the desired patterns. Once dyed,
the threads are woven on a backstrap loom, with the weaver carefully
following the pattern that was set during the dyeing process. The final
product is a cloth with intricate, colorful designs that reflect the
weaver's dreams and cultural heritage.
PATADYONG
A.) Description
The Patadyong is a traditional Filipino garment, a
rectangular or tube-like wraparound skirt worn by both men
and women, primarily in the Visayas islands, particularly
Panay. It's made of cotton, though abaca and polyester are
also used, and features vibrant colors and geometric patterns,
often stripes and plaids.
B.) Historical Background
Historically, the Patadyong dates back to the precolonial
era, worn with a barú or bayú, a simple shirt. During the
Spanish period, it evolved into the kimona, a variant of the
baro't saya. The name "Patadyong" comes from the Visayan
words "pa" and "tad long," meaning "to be left straight,"
referring to its straight silhouette.
C.)Artist/s
Weaving communities in Antique and Iloilo have preserved
this tradition for generations. The Bagtason Loom Weavers
Association in Bugasong, Antique, and the In Dag-an
Cooperative in Miag-ao, Iloilo, are notable groups known for
their Patadyong weaving.
D.)Processes Used
The Patadyong is woven using a wooden loom called tiral,
with threads called bunang interlaced to create the
patterns.The checkered patterns are often interpreted as
representing fishing nets and baskets, reflecting Panay's
connection to the sea.
