Appreciation of

traditional
Indian Textiles

Textile Heritage
Categorization

1 Embroidered Textiles

2 Resist Dyed Textiles

3 Painted and Printed Textiles

4 Woven Textiles
 RESIST DYE EMBROIDERY

Rangai
• Patterns made by
Kadhai
manipulating the dyeing • Embellished textiles
process, a technique of include stitching of
WOVENS colouring yarn or fabric in patterns on the
order by blocking areas so surface using
Bunai that only the unblocked PRINTING needlework.
• Cotton, silk, woollen
areas receive colour.
• Textiles made by
interlacing of warp &
• Pre-loom like in case of
ikat or post loom like in
Chappai thread or gold/silver
wires, pieces of fabric,
weft case of Bandhej/ Leharia • Includes e traditional block beads, mirrors, shells,
• Various types of loom: • Materials for resist like printing techniques and coins, precious stones,
pitlooms, dobby/ thread, wax , mud ,resin,or hand painted textiles sequins etc
jacquard looms, jala rice paste is used. • Patterns are made using • Some of the most
loom, backstrap loom, • Products include saris, wooden stamps or free elaborate textile crafts
frame loom fabrics, pagdis etc hand printing. like Kanths, Zardozi,
• Products like shawls, • Categorised as per region Phulkari, Chamba
saris, running yardage, • Main art forms are Dabu, Rumal, Chikankari etc
carpets & dhurries, Sanganeri, Bagh, Ajrakh,
padgis, furnishings, Kalamkari etc
dupattas & scarves
• Many regional varieties
and techniques
 Are you ready?

Let's Begin Resist Dyeing

Techniques
 The Art & Technology of
Pit
creating fabric out of threads Loom

What is
weaving ?
Frame
Loom
Jala
Loom

Carpet Loom
Backstrap
Loom
 Introduction

• Resist dyeing is a method used to apply

a design on a fabric by covering the Handmade
parts of the fabric in a way that will
keep the dye from penetrating the open
areas.
• The cover may be any substance that is
impervious to the dye. It blocks the dye Tie-Dye Batik
access to certain areas of the fabric,
while other parts are free to take up the
dye colour.
 Tie-Dye
Tie-dye is a method of fabric design that
involves binding parts of fabric with
strings or plastic bands before dyeing.
After dyeing, the bound area resists the
dye; elsewhere, dye is absorbed.
Removal of the thread/plastic band reveals
a design pattern in the original fabric
colour. Complex patterns can be built up
by repeating the process using another dye
colour.
 Methods of Tying:
Marbling
• The variegated and irregular cloud
like texture which is dyed on cloth
is called as marbling.
• The cloth is bunched up closely
and bound with thread or string,
before being dyed.
• Marbling provides a rich and an
unusual background for prints,
embroidery etc.
 Methods of Tying:
Gathering/ Rouching
• In this technique the fabric is
gathered up around a cord or a
stick.
• The fabric hidden in the gathers
does not receive the colour.
• The part of the fabric on the
outer side gets dyed to give a
patterned effect.
 Methods of Tying:
Folding
• Many striking patterns and effects,
especially stripes, are produced by
folding technique combined with
binding.
• It requires accurate workmanship
and patterns like simple stripes in
rows and triangles and squares can
be created.
 Methods of Tying:
Clamping
• Clamp dyeing technique typically
involves folding, twisting or bunching
cloth and binding it.
• Fan pattern gives the illusion of
fullness. Pattern enhances the
personality and makes you stand out.
• Square-like shapes relate to straight
vertical and horizontal lines that
communicate strength, stability and
confidence.
 Methods of Tying: Clump

• This method involves, the tying of

bunches or clumps of material.
• The cloth itself is bunched or
arranged, in various ways. Small
objects like beads and pebbles are
tied on the fabric.
 Tie-Dye in Indian Context:
Bandhni, Gujarat
• Various methods are used to mark out a pattern on
the fabric before tying.
• In one method, the dampened fabric is placed over a
pattern block of raised pins. The cloth is pinched
between the thumb and index finger at each point
and tied with waxed thread.
• Another method is to block-print the design of dots
using a medium that washes out in water, such as
soot or red ochre.
• Sometimes a thin sheet of plastic pierced by holes is
placed over the fabric and the fugitive solution
spread over it. This leaves a pattern of small dots on
the fabric.
• The ties are often not removed before the cloth is
sold, to show that it has been hand-dyed and not
mechanically printed.
Bandhej,
Rajasthan
Multicoloured
Many tying techniques
Odhanis & Pagris
Stripes, checks patterns
Tie-Dye in Indian Context:
Lehariya
A tie-dying method called ‘lehariya’
is used in India for turban clothes and
sarees. Fine cloth such as muslin is
folded concertina-fashion and tied
tightly at intervals. It is dipped
quickly in dye of a pale colour. Some
areas are then un-rolled and the
process is repeated with
progressively darker dyes, to build up
a range of colours in stripes.
Types of Ikat - Yarn resist dyeing
Technique
Odisha : Bandhas
Saris and fabrics, nature inspired
themes & Jagannath, calligraphy also
done.
Andhra Pradesh : Telia Rumal
Oil used to resist. Checkerboard pattern,
traditionally made handkerchiefs
Andhra Pradesh : Pochampally
Very ornate, mostly silk and also lot
of zari work
Gujarat : Patola
Most elaborate. Square patterns with
birds, florals, elephants and other
motifs in them
Indian International
 Odisha : Bandhas
Widely acknowledged for their skillful
patterns, distinctively rendered curvilinear
motifs. It has gloriously woven, blurred
motifs in silk and cotton. The dominant
motifs in this craft include animals and birds,
with the traditional designs being fish and
conch shell as well as bolmala, chandankora,
and sachipar. Nature inspired themes &
Jagannath, calligraphy also done.
As the design-type is single ikat, the designs
on the material are blurred.
 Andhra Pradesh : Telia Rumal
• ‘Telia’ means oil, and 'Rumal' means
handkerchief. Double ikat technique used
on cotton fabric. It has a wide, single-
coloured border around the main field –
which is divided into a grid with repeating
geometric motifs – and features fine
checks on the corner fields.
• Common motifs seen in a Telia Rumal are
flowers, elephants, birds, lions, swastika.
These motifs are embossed in squares,
which are separated by an inch broad
floral or dotted patterns. Traditionally, this
formed the central unit and was invariably
framed by a red border with the overall
color scheme being red, white, and black.
 Andhra Pradesh : Pochampally
• The colours of Pochampalli Ikat fabrics
are mesmerizing and even more
astonishing is the simple method they use
to produce bold geometrical designs of
flowers, birds and animal pattern.
• These hand woven silk fabrics are woven
in an extremely interesting way. The
resist is printed with the help of a copper
stamp called the cap. The wax which is
used along with this resists the dyes and
thus, the patterns are created. Zari is also
used in weaving.
 Gujarat: Patola

The double ikat made in Patan, Gujarat in

India is the most complicated called patola.
The yarns are tied with thread at specific
points to create the resist patterns, which will
prevent those areas from absorbing the dye.
The dyeing process is repeated several times
to achieve the desired color intensity and to
create the complex patterns that are
characteristic of the Patola Saree.
Patola in Metropolitan museum of art

Detailed calligraphic ikat from Odisha

OKHAI
CINNAMON STITCH
John Sebastian at Woodstock, 1969 Taylor Swift at Wango Tango, 2019
Christian Dior Spring / Summer 2021
FASHION ACCESSORIES
Tie-dye Tying Techniques

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulp-VcVshq0
 General Points to note
• Bindings must be wrapped and tied TIGHTLY to get good color variations.
• For consistent results, the fabric should be damp when it is tied and when it is
dyed.
• Fabric may be rinsed under cold water after dyeing. This gives a hazier effect
than unrinsed work.
• When dyeing with two or more colors, fabric may be dyed with one color,
then dried, then dyed with other color or may be dipped in one color
immediately after the other. The latter method gives softer edges and a more
evenly mixed color when the two colors overlap.
• Recycling Note: Save the binding strings after dyeing and use them for gift
wrap ribbons or for making a yarn geometry picture.
 Batik
• Batik printing originated in the island of
Java. This style of printing involves the use
of wax as a resist on the fabric by covering
a part of it and then dyeing the cloth.
• It is a three-stage process of waxing,
dyeing and dewaxing (removing the wax).
The areas where wax is applied do not take
up the dye and when the wax is removed
the contrast between the dyed and undyed
areas gives the pattern.
• The characteristic effect of batik are the
fine lines running irregularly across the
fabric.
 Batik: Historical Aspect
• Batik is historically the most expressive and subtle art of the resist
method. A tradition of making batik is found in various countries,
including Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka,
and Nigeria; the batik of Indonesia, however, is the best-known.

• The word batik originates from the Javanese tik and means to dot.
Originally the hot wax was applied with a shaped strip of bamboo, but in
the 17th century the invention of the ‘canting’ (pronounced janting)- a
copper crucible with spouts of different sizes - meant that the wax could
more easily be applied in continuous lines of varying thicknesses, thus
improving the fineness of the patterns that could be attempted.
 Process of making Batik

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nd0e2YH-zeo
Indonesia Fashion Designers and Fashion Entrepreneurs Association, or Appmi, showcased batik and
embroidery at Indonesia Fashion Week 2017
SHUNYA BATIK
 Contemporary
Fitting in to modern closets

Unusual Uses
Accessories etc
Special Place in fashion weeks :
India day @ London FW
dedicated shows at Lakme
Thank you