RLAN D.

ATTFIELD

Rk5ipPg

bbtts

by Harlan D. Attfield
drawings by

Catharine Roache (part 1) & George Clark(hutch)

John Goode11 - cover, other art

PREFACE This manual presents an overview of the entire process of raising rabbits --from selecting healthy animals to preparing proper foods to treating disease. A separate section of the manual includes step-by-step procedures for the construction of a hutch unit to house two does and one buck. Raising
It ypfl?arts .-w

Rabbits
VIT?,;

is

written
emphasis

in
on

clear
pre-a?fng

straightforward
fia$-f-?;al

language.
which

be used easily by extension worker! and by do-it-yourselFg:s regardless of cultural context or geographic location. The author and illustrators all are VITA Volunteers with considerable skill in their areas of expertise. Harlan Attfield, the author, is a VITA Volunteer who is now working in an innovative integrated farming program in Bangladesh with International Voluntary Services, Inc. He has over ten years experience in tropical agriculture and has served in Nigeria, Ethiopia and Mauritius. Small stock and beekeeping are among his specialties. Attfield has experiences, communication bute some of as Technical written over 30 articles and books detailing his and has placed special emphasis on effective with extension workers. VITA will soon distrithe material produced by the Bangladesh program Bulletins.

Catharine S. Roache, a VITA Volunteer for eight years, is an author and illustrator of children's books, as well as a poet. In addition, she has special interest and involvement in working with senior citizens and with college students. George R. Clark is an instructor in drafting and design at Kellogg Community College. Clark has been a VITA Volunteer for over eight years and has contributed technical drawings and expertise to a number of VITA publications and projects. A special note of thanks goes to Jeff Cox, Associate Editor, Organic Gardening and Farming Magazine, who provided editing support ln his role as a VITA Volunteer and to Jerome 0. Belanger, Editor and Publisher of Countryside Magazine, who reviewed this manual for technical content.

bk of Contents

PARi I 1 2 Introduction Preparing to Raise Rabbits 3 5 15 23 31 39 45

- -

3 Caring for Rabbits 4 5 Breeding Rabbits Keeping Records

6 Rabbit Diseases and Their Control 7 Killing, Skinning, and Tanning Rabbits

PART 2 Hutch Construction Wood Hutch with Metal Roof 55 56 77 81

Wood and Bamboo Hutch Worm Husbandry

Introduction

Raising rabbits is very popular in Europe and North America. In England over one million families have rabbits. In America, people eat 30 million pounds of rabbit meat each year. There are a number of reasons why becoming a more and more important world: raising activity rabbits is throughout the

. &bbits can produce large amounts of delicious meat. Although rabbit meat is firmer, it tastes very much like chicken. Rabbit meat contains a lot of protein and is low in calories and fat. So rabbit meat is both good to eat and is a very healthy food. . Rabbits multiply quickly. A rabbit raiser can start with two females and one male and produce . , or more, rabbits in one year. Even a small FF yard project ac in which two to three females and one male are raised can furnish meat to strengthen the family diet. On the other hand, 50 to 150 females can mean a business which provides part-time employment and perhaps extra income. ' Rabbits are easy to raise at home -- whether home is in the city or the country: Rabbit hutches do not take up a lot of space, and rabbits are clean, quiet and easy to care for. valuable; collars, they can slippers, be made pillows,

. Rabbit skins are also into hats, fur-trimmed small rugs, etc.

In addition to these reasons, gardeners and farmers often use rabbit manure as a fertilizer. The manure of wellfed rabbits contains nitrogen and phosphorus. This manure can be mixed directly into the soil to help the growth of

farmers' crops, Other manures, such as chicken manure, This is especially important to cannot be used this way. farmers and gardeners who cannot afford or find other who wish to make the best fertilizers -- and to those possible use of all the natural resources of their farms. There raise are only a few simple rabbits successfuily: a good with rabbits try raising hutch. animals. care. Good luck and good farming! rules to follow in order to

. Build . Begin . Give Why not

healthy good

rabbits?

Harlan

H. D. AttfieTd

to Raise Rabbits
Most people who decide to raise rabbits want to produce And they want to produce this meat as quickly, and meat. cheaply, as possible. Therefore, before beginning any part of the project, it is very important to decide:
.

how much room there is there is only room for limit on the number of

for raising rabbits. If a few hutches, there is a rabbits which can be raised.

what kinds ' Some.breeds are better necessary if a good determine

of breeds of rabbit are available. of rabbits grow more quickly; some In other words, it is for eating. to check the sources of rabbits to see breed is available. And the breed will the size of the hutch.

what foods are available for feeding the rabbits. but some are ' Rabbits will eat a variety of foods, Some will more important for rabbits than others. some are more expensive; etc. lead to faster growth; It is always best to begin any project by studying and understanding all parts of it, Therefore, it is a good idea for a prospective rabbit raiser to read through all the information in this handbook before taking any steps. Successfui rabbit raising depends upon setting up the effort so that few problems are likely to occur, and upon managing the project so that any problems which do come up can be handled quickly and easily.

Choosing the Breed of Rabbit

There are over sixty breeds and varieties world. These breeds, or different kinds put into three main groups, according to of rabbits of rabbits, size: in the can be

_ Small breeds
weighs a iittie

The Polish rabbit, for example, more than 1 kg as an adult. The New Zealand, have an average Giant California adult weight can weigh and of over

Medium breeds
Palomino breeds 4 l/2 kg.

Heaw breeds The Flemish 6 l/ Y kg as an adult.

This handbook focuses on raising rabbits to produce meat or even for profit. for the table, For this purpose, medium-breed rabbits which grow rapidly are the best -- they will yield more meat from the amount of choice food fed them.

The Hutch
The hutch which is detailed in this manual (Part 6, "Hutch Construction") is ideal for medium-breed rabbits. It was designed and used successfully by the author. The following discussion presents some of the major factors to keep in mind while building a hutch; for example, protection from wind, rain and sun. Hutches can and do look very different from one area to the Thereare no critical measurements which say that next. a hutch must be just so high or so long or it will not work. There are size ranges which are better for certain types of For example, rabbits. And there are design differences. a hutch in a cold climate may have completely closed sides; a hot humid climate may suggest more open sides and greater All hutches, overhang on the roof to increase ventilation.

no matter provide:
. .

how they of air to

are

different

or

similar,

should

plenty sunlight

the from

inside
rain

of and

the winds

cages

. protection . a quiet

home

(undisturbed floor that does not

by dogs)

. a self-cleaning
. .

a good
a

roof for

leak rabbit rabbit

cage

each

medium-breed for grass a hutch hutches each

. a water
.

container for

a manger(s)

Most people prefer to build females, but some two-rabbit female) are also built. It costs rabbits produce and the

for one male and two (one male and one

only a little more to build a hutch for three Two females will than to build a hutch for two. more young (and therefore increased meat yield), male will not become lazy. This is very its own cage. (cage) for a medium-breed 75cm (2 l/2 ft) wide, lm high.

Each adult rabbit must have Each compartment important. rabbit should measure about and 60cm. (2 ft) (3 ft) deep,

Materials
Many different The hutch. using:
.

kinds of materials hutch pictured on the cases

can be used to build next page was made

packing

. four
.

eucalyptus of in) sheet wire pine

poles

14 strips

. 1 cm (l/2
. *

square of

wire

netting iron

one

flat

galvanized

binding

Hutches including

can be made of many other bamboo (see Part B).

woods

and

materials,

A good hu$ch
Pea,+jec$ don

da& two Gemales attd the smaL& and mecfium

one

male.

blteedd.

Protection from weather

Pha-tec.t

nabbi.h

b'torn

dhee.& ott gunny aachh in

oveh top 06 hutch du/ring

hain

by hanging Jrr.tabttic 6kon-t 05 hu.tch. Fo&d good wea.thet.

The weather conditions that most affect rabbits are rain, Rabbits often enjoy sitting in the sun, but sun and heat. they must always be able to set out of the direct ravs of Too much sun can kill rabbits. the-sun. Rabbits tolerate -b etter cold in their "fur coats" than extreme heat. Also, protect rabbits from rain and wind. If the sides, front or back of the hutch are covered only with wire netting, hang sheets of plastic or gunny sacks over these spaces dur'ing rains to protect the rabbits. Always place Rabbits the enclosed back 3f the hutch to the wind. suffer when exposed to drafts. In severe winter it is best to bring the hutch under the shelter of a roof (a corner of the barn) or under the eaves of the house.

Self-cleaning

floors

Hu.tch d$oo.kA mudat be lAel~-c~eaning Ito ptlev en2 di4 eUAe. No manulte wLfY cotbec-t in Eve&g wood AuppOfit iA covelred ;thiA hu.tch. with sheet me2ta.C.
The floor of the hutch should be no higher than tt12 waist and be self-cleaning. A self-cleaning floor is made by stretching 1 cm (l/2 in) square wire netting in a frame. Wire floors help prevent rabbits from becoming sick and dying because manure and urine pass through the holes of The inside of the hutch the wire and drop to the ground. then stays clean, dry and sanitary.

10

The manure utder the hutches should be gathered every Rabbit manure months and used on vegetable gardens. better than /the 'manure of pigs, chickens or cows for growing vegdtables.

few is

RIGHT:
1 wiiY ! Zhe

The manure 6aLL thxobgh 6Looh.

WRONG: The manulte witL colkect on the piece a,( wood.

Icm '(l/Z

in)

Aqua&

Zcm (3/4 AguaJle

in)

Ithhee m0A.t common wihe A~Z~A ubed bon: &?otting. hiG tcm (l/Z in) AquaILc, which iA good don maAt phojec~A. Middle, 1 x 2 1/2cm (l/Z x 1 in) ttideaL Ahe", uAuall!.y 16 SomenimeA Right, 2cm (3/4 in) wi/re netting. guage thick. young ttcbbitd b2gA alte blroken by Atipping ;thtrough the hate.6 ad a%~ size n&tting.
The

11

Preparations for Feeding

The manger
But grass should Rabbits eat lots of grass and leaves. Grass on never be scattered on the floor of the hutch. the floor of the hutch gets dirty with manure and urine, It is easy and this du'rty grass can make rabbits sick. to prevent this problem by bullding a simple manger, or This can be of wire netting or planks. feeding place, The rabbits then fastened to the outside of the hutch. pull the grass through the wire mesh and feed themselves The manger should be large enough as they are hungry. to hold plenty of grass and leaves.

Food

into a man e&. NOZte wa ich had ;the muh been made by chod+$g
pieced 06 cu.&e, hokze4 a4e &crhge enough doa the nabbit .to puU Zhe
dood

being

p&aced

drn&!e

ale habbiXt6 dhom ChaLV&ing it&o Xhe mangeh.

Ithhough, bu2 enough ;to lreep but Xhe tiniest

Sometimes baby rabbits crawl out of the cage To prevent them fraim fal ling to the manger. a cover for the manger.

into the ground, make

12

A covu a6 wood

dot. a mangek, made by dabtening a piece to some mike mesh, which can dhop cfi dab-ten in.to peace.
can be placed between two compartments in a hutch.

A manger

It is not necessary to build to make the food available hutch floor to get dirty. grass and leaves in bundles on the inside of the hutch will prevent the grass and spoiled.

a manger, but it is necessary so that it is not lying on the One way to do this is to tie with string or wire and hang it This method near the front. leaves from becoming dirty or

Water
Rabbits need water. but they and leaves, rabbits can get water To do this,
.

They get some water from eating grass Make sure need more water than this. whenever they wish to drink. water container:

make

an automatic

Turn a large bottle over and fasten it to the inside of the hutch so the lip of the bottle Make sure there are is inside a small tin can. no sharp edges on the tin can. The top lip rim of of the the bottle bottle can. and is fill about the lcm can below and the bottle

Remove the with water.

As the rabbit drinks water Replace the bottle. more water will fall from the from the can, bottle, thus providing rabbits with plenty of fresh water. clean,

13

Fill water once

the bottle as often as supply clean and fresh a day.

necessary to -- probably

keep the at least

A himpte

bo;tt&e-and

au;tomaLLc Wa$eheh

Automatic watering systems using pipe ;;;t,t:vestment for the rabbit raiser . .

and who

nipples are a is raising many

Feed dishes
If possible select a heavy earthenware Heavy dishes 8cm (3 in)-high sides. by the rabbits. A coffee or small board. A section be used. rolling. butter tin can Be sure there crock cannot with about be tipped over

Nail the can to a be used. are no sharp edges on the can. into keep the side it from can

of bamboo Fasten it

with an opening cut to a small board to

14

Whate ver kind of container Usually climb into them. food but could contaminate will have to be watched.

you use, younc, rabbits rabbits will not urinate it with their droppings.

will on their This

If
the the

feed pellets one below. feed clean.

are used, a feed hopper This has the advantage

can be built like of always keeping

A deed hoppeh made 6hOm a bquahe, me.tai! S-gaLton L&t and a dew pieced o,j wood. Feed d.Ltb between the bide4 06 the "V" bhape and b.towb down fowahd Xhe bide opening.

3
When the hutch is ready, the rabbit raiser can This section presents guidelines for selecting, and caring for rabbits. get started. handling

Check New Stock Carefully

The source of supply depends upon the area. In some p?aces rabbits are available in the market, from another rabbit breeder or perhaps from government sources. Wherever the r.abbits come from, they must be checked very carefully before they are taken home. Remember that it is not possible to breed and raise healthy rabbits unless the rabbits you begin with are good rabbits. You must questions . Is . Are . Is
.

be able before the its its its its its animal eyes nose ears fur feet

to answer YES to all six of you take the rabbit home: active bright clean, clean smooth dry and and not and and and alert? clear? runny? dry clean? free of sores? inside?

the

following

Are

. Is . Are

If the rabbit fits from which the rabbit from large litters large litters. Do breeding; they will

these guidelines, ask about the litter Choose rabbits that have come came. and from females that have had good, not select brother and sisters for not produce healthy young.

16

Handling Rabbits
word here on the proper ways to handle Rabbits are generally gentle and will not bite, but they do become frightened and can hurt themselves or the handler if they jump suddenly. It is always better to handle rabbits properly. Never lift rabbits hurt if lifted this by their way. ears or legs: they can be ;;;;i;sshort

There is plenty of loose skin at the back of the neck over the shoulders. Hold the rabbit by this loose skin with one hand and support its weight by placing your other hand under its rump (tail). Be sure to hold the rabbit's feet away from you to avoid scratches from the long toe-nails.

Adult rabbits

Small rabbits

Ljft and carry small rabbits by holding between the hips and the ribs. The heel of the hand face the rabbit's tail; the rabbit's head should be pointing toward the ground.

them should

How Ro hoed an aduLt habbit

ffow 20 hold a bm&! habbix

17

l-leavy rabbits Grasp a fold of skin Hold over the shoulder and lift. the rabbit against your body with Your foreits head under your arm. arm should extend along the side of the animal, and your hand should be under the rabbit's rump to support the weight of the rabbit.

ffow Ao hold a heavy habbkt

Rabbits are not hard to feed because they can live on Rabbits plants and other foods which are easy to find. get the vitamins, minerals and fiber they need by eating Corn, peanuts and other seeds can the leaves of plants. be eaten by rabbits and are a good source of protein. Well-chosen food It is important to feed rabbits well. can help keep the rabbits free from disease while producing good growth at low cost. Breeding females, called does, must be especially well-fed to produce healthy young rabbits and the milk to feed them.

Elements in foods protein. Protein

is a substance which helps Protein is contained in and stay healthy. is one reason why rabbit meat is so healthy. be fed protein to produce protein.

rabbits grow rabbit meat and Rabbits must

Rabbits can Proteins from plants are best for rabbits. eat peanuts (groundnuts), soyabeans, sesame, linseed, These seeds are usually ground hempseed and cottonseed. Whole soyabeans and added to rabbit mashes and pellets. have about 36 percent protein but are not enjoyed by rabbits unless the beans are ground into a meal or pelleted. Oil cake from soyabean, seed is a good source of peanut, protein. sesame, flax and cotton-

salt.
salt good Each

There is a noticeable difference For each rabbit consumes daily. idea to place a block or spool of rabbit will take what it needs by

in the amount of this reason it is a salt in each cage. licking the salt.

18

Salt should as screening. quantity of

not

come in Salt can l/2 percent.

contact with metal be added directly

cage parts, to the food

such in a

vitamins. Very little is known about a rabbit's requirement for any of the vitamins, but rabbits do need vitamins A and D. Freshly cut green plants, some root crops, and high quality hay are excellent sources of vitamin A. The best source of vitamin D is found in cured roughages, especially field-cured luzerne. Fresh cut greens will also provide vitamin B and vitamin E. When labor and expense permit, rabbits should be given good quality green plants as part of their diet.
tTliflfXalS. All dry and fresh green plants will contain some or all of the minerals needed by rabbits. If the rabbit's feed is properly balanced, there will be plenty of minerals for the rabbit.

Rabbits will eat oats, wheat, barley and grain sorghums (milo, kafir, feterito, hegari, darso and sagrain). These grains may be fed whole as soon as the young rabbits come out of the nest box at three weeks of Grains fed to rabbits should be plump and not spoiled age. or moldy. Soft varieties of maize (corn) can be eaten by rabbits, but the tougher, flintier types must be crushed or ground. Rabbits enjoy sunflower seeds but these seeds are usually valued more for other purposes. When rabbits grain, their varieties of are allowed first choice wheat, grain to choose from several will be oats, followed sorghums and barley. types of by soft which for a

Foods cereal grains.

Usually, it is a good idea to contains a number of grains. grain mix (the quantities are rabbits): lkg lkg 1/2kg lkg whole wheat crushed soyabean corn meal in (soft pellet oats

prepare a feed mixture Here is one suggestion for a stall number of

varieties) form

Nursing does should be full-fed (food continuously available)1 the grain mix. Dry does and herd bucks should be given as much as they will consume in 20-30 minutes. Grains which are ground and made into a mash should be dampened with water before serving. Otherwise, dust will

19

get into the rabbit's possible, feed should when pellets are used.

nose and cause irritation. there is be pelleted:

less

When waste tender also and

green feeds and roots.

cane like white tops have also sweet potatoes, potatoes.

Rabbits enjoy green plants; Rabbits been used with success. carrots, sugar beets, turnips,

Green plants and root crops contain protein, they are almost 90 percent water. vitamins; make them very important food for rabbits.

minerals, and These contents

However, if rabbits eat too many greens then they will not eat enough of concentrated feeds (like grain mixes). And these concentrated foods produce faster weight gain. NEVER ALLOW GREEN FEED TO STAND IN PILES AND BECOME HEATED Green feed which has been BEFORE FEEDING TO RABBITS. standing too long can cause serious digestive problems in the herd. Also, NEVER PLACE GREENS ON THE FLOOR OF THE Disease is spread when CAGE where they will become dirty. greens are not hung up or placed in a manger.

dried plants (hays).

Luzerne, clover, peanut, lespedeza, Hay must vetch and kudzu hays are excellent for rabbits. be of good quality: it should be leafy, small stemmed, free of dust and mold, with a nice smell. green in color, Tender elephant grass and Sudan grass can be fed to rabbits but contain less protein than the plants listed first. Often weather conditions do not allow for the making or storing of hay. When hay is available, it can be placed They will eat about before the rabbits at all times. 55 - 85 gm (2 - 3 oz), daily.

commercial feeds.

Many rabbit raisers prefer to buy a COMPLETE feed for their rabbits. The packages should indicate the amount of protein, fat, etc. that they contain. The following chart shows how much of each of the If the concentrate listed substances rabbits require. contains these ingredients in about the same percentage it -is a complete feed. amounts, Suggested protein fat fiber nitrogen-free extract ash or mineral Rabbit Feed Concentrate Analysis

15 - 20 % 3 - 5.5 %

14 - 20 % 44 - 50 % 4.5 - 6.5 %

20

coccidiostats. These are preventive medicines for coccidiosis (See Section 6). If available, it is wise to add some medicine to the feed to protect rabbits from this disease. A ration containing 0.025 percent of sulfaquinoxaline is effective for reducing the infestation of intestinal and liver types of coccidiosis in the herd. The use of medication should not take the place of good It is more economical to prevent than to cure. management.
Young rabbits are born free of this disease but may quickly become infected by licking their soiled feet, fur, or hutch equipment, or by eating feed or drinking water that is contaminated with the "eggs" (oocysts) of the disease organism (protozoans). When rabbits are raised in areas where there is considerable humidity or long periods of rain or fog, the coccidia infestation may build up until it causes heavy losses. Manure pellets do not cause danger while they are whole, but once they begin to break down or get mashed the disease organism is released. Hutches with self-cleaning floors, mangers and proper food, and good management practices all help reduce the possibilities of infection. Authorities on rabbit raising feel that it is impossible to get rid of the disease entirely, but they feel that good practices such as those mentioned here can re.duce the problem considerably.

other foods.

Kitchen scraps, except greasy and spoiled food, are enjoyed by rabbits. By weight, dry or stale bread has about the same feeding value as the cereal grains. Bread can help reduce the cost of feeding rabbits. The fruits and rinds of oranges and grapefruits and trimmings from vegetables can be fed to rabbits. Cow's or oat's milk is good for rabbits. Although poultry mash 9 formulated for growers and layers) is generally more expensive than rabbit feed, it is nutritionally adequate for homestead rabbits.

A note on feed storage

Keep feed dry and protect Keep feed away from dogs tapeworm infestation. it and against cats; insects they can and rodents. be a source of

Proper amounts and combinations of foods

Rabbits can be given a combination of foods as long as the total food intake is about the same. In general? herd bucks (males) and dry does (femaies not breeding) need only l/2 cup of mash each day; pregnant or nursing females require 3/4 - I cup per day.

21

bucks.

Rabbits can be full-fed by leaving food in the Rabbits fed by this method eat small hutch at all times. amounts of food more often and gain weight more quickly. Herd bucks, however, should be hand fed. This means supplying them only with as much food as they can eat in 20 - 30 minutes. If herd bucks are allowed to eat all the they become fat and lazy. Two possible daily time, feeding plans for bucks are: - 6 l/2 oz) concentrate 125 - 185gm (4 l/2 (depending upon weight), plus 15-minute feeding of greens.

or
85gm good (30~) quality of grain hay or mixture greens and they all will the eat. here figures. and

All weight Please note: are given in following,

conversions, approximzte

does.

A doe at six months of age will eat at the rate of For example, a 3.8 percent of her live weight, daily. 4.5kg (about 10 lb) dce will eat .038 x 4.5 = .17kg = 170gm If hay and or .038 x 10 = .38 lb = about 6oz), daily. ( grains are fed, she will consume 70gm (2 l/2 oz) of a grain mixture and about 1OOgm (3 l/2 oz) of hay, to make 170gm (60~). chart is concentrate a good guide and greens: when feeding a com-

The following bination of

Concentrate-Greens
Weight of Doe

Feeding Chart
Daily Ration more greens, ration of: - 30~) l/2 l/2 - 50~) - 70~) 45gm (1.60~) or PLUS concentrate

2 l/4 4 l/2 6 3/4 Note:

kg (about kg kg (about (about

5 lb) 10 lb) 15 lb) of

70-85gm 125-14Ogm 185-200gm concentrates the amounts

(2

l/2 (4 (6

The amounts by increasing

of

can be reduced greens fed.

To feed a doe correctly the rabbit raiser must know when An experienced rabbit raiser can feel she is pregnant. for the babies inside the mother at 14 days after mating Rabbits"). A doe must be given (see Section 4, "Breeding all the concentrates she will eat without waste while

22

After the young rabbits pregnant. feed the doe and the young rabbits The they will eat without waste. reduced only when the young rabbits pregnancy is noted again.

are born,continue to all the concentrates doe's diet should be are removed and until it takes 7kg are best) to The following This should is best for his

Generally, (15.4 lb) of complete concentrate (pellets produce a 1.8kg (4 lb) fryer in 8 weeks. chart shows four different feeding plans. help the rabbit raiser decide which plan situation.
rnn*"r+rates .."l*eC .b PLAN A PLAN B PLAN C PLAN D 7kg 4kg 4.5 3.6 (15.4 (8.8 - 5kg - 4kg lb) lb) (lo-11 (8-9 lb) lb) Lucerne ---1.5kg ------(3.2 lb) Ha Green mm----.5-lkg

Producing a 1.8kg (4 lb) fryer

Feed

Time 8 weeks 8 weeks

(1-2

lb) (3-4 lb)

8 weeks lo-11 weeks

1.4-1.8kg

Note:

Amount of food to produce 1.8kg also includes a portion required breeding through weaning.

(4 lb) fryer for doe from

4 Breeding Rabbits
When buying rabbits find out how old they are. The minimum age for breeding depends upon type: heavy types take 9-12 months before they are old enough to breed; New Zealand Whites are ready to breed at 6-9 months of age. Do not breed females until they are old enough to handle the strain of nursing. One male, or buck, can service as many as ten females but he should not be used more than two or three times a week. A maximum use for short periods would be five times weekly.

How to Mate Rabbits

The female, or does will probably object to having the buck placed in her cage and might attack or injure him. Therefore, alwa s place the doe in the buck's cage for mating. Do --+I* not lsturb the animals and make sure people and dogs are not around. People and dogs can frighten the rabbits and they will not mate.

lthe buckb

Ptace

the

doe in

cage

The buck bhou%d mounat athe. doe id undibZu&bed

24

When the doe is Placed in the buck's cage. he will probably mount her quickly. If after a few seconds the buck falls over on his side or suddenly f-alls backwards, mating has taken place. Often when the buck falls he will look as if his whole body has suddenly tightened. Allow only one or two falls. Then remove the doe and place her back in her own cage. DO NOT LET THE DOE STAY WITH THE BUCK ALL DAY LONG. mating has not occurred within the first few minutes, remove the doe and try again after a few hours.

If

As soon as the doe has been mated a;ld returned to her cage, WRITE DOWN THE DATE OF MATING on a small card attached high in the inside of the hutch. If you fail to write down the date you will not know when to feel for the young within the doe at 14 days or put a ne>t box in her cage before she gives birth.

Holding the Doe for Mating

Sometimes a doe will hide in the and he will not be able to cage, happens, help the buck by holding This is very easv to do. corner of the buck's mount her. If this the doe for mating.

The comeclt umy to hold the doe

don mating

25

Use either hand to hold the ears and a fold of skin over Place your other hand under her body the doe's shoulders. Place one of your fingers on and between her hind legs. each side of the tail and push gently backwards. This action will throw the doe's tail up over her back, so that the buck can quickly mount and mate her. If the doe's tail is down, the buck will not be able to mate her.

Feeling for Young Rabbits

It is possible to feel the small, round babies inside the Keep the doe doe two weeks after breeding has taken place. Hold her ears and a fold of skin over the in her cage. Slide shoulders as though holding the doe for mating. the other hand under her stomach with your thumb on one side of the stomach and your fingers on the other. Gently press in on the stomach wall with your thumb and fingers If the doe is and slide your hand backward and forward. pregnant, you will be able to feel small, hard, marbleshaped lumps as you slide your fingers back and forth with This "test" is the stomach gently squeezed between them. a good one, but must be practiced often to be successful.

Kindling
The doe will kindle Kindling is the act of giving birth. A doe will orobably eat iess 31-32 days after mating. Five to seven food two or three days before kindlin>. days before the kindling date, put a small box, called a She will give birth in NT; lb~;;, inside the doe's cage. It is usually possible to find boxes which work ver; well, but if you must build a box it should be lightweight and measure about 30cm deep x 35cm wide x ZO-30cm high (12" x 14" x 8-12"). Place nothing in the nest box or the hutch if the weather is warm. The doe will pull fur from her stomach to make the box comfortable. If the weather is cold, place dry grass or straw in the hutch three days before kindling, and the dot will prepare her own nest. As each baby is born, the Does usually kindle at night. Does usually give doe will lick it and give it milk. After that a doe birth to 4 or 6 babies the first time. usually produces 6--8 babies at each kindling. One or two days after the rabbits are born, carefully look Move the fur to one inside the box for any dead babies. Remove any that you side with a small stick or pencii. find.

26

When the doe is with her babies, it is important to keep children and dogs from bothering her. If the doe becomes frightened she might injure her young by jumping into the Or, frightened does eat box quickly and crushing them. Does also will eat their young if they do their babies. If a doe continues to do not have enough protein food. this after a second or third time, however, she should be replaced. Following are some examples of nest boxes you can make.

6th

P&we lthe nedat box Ito ;the back Xhe coveh iacing bohwatrd.

06 $he cage,

A dimpLe

haibinnebZ

cad e
box.

The coveh haa been ttuhned

up and nailed

20 one side 06 the cabe.

27

A ne&t box b&X

wifh Zwo hai&in Cabeb. Thib ib a good box 60)~ RehVOUb doeb who need mo/re bec.hAiOn.

A wh.te.t nebt box do& medium bheedb

This closed-top winter nest box will hold the body warmth of the baby rabbits. These nest boxes can be made of lcm (l/Z") or even 2 1/2cm (1") lumber. One 4 x 8' (about 1.2 x 2.4m) sheet of plywood will make four of these boxes, with just a little left over. Use wood for these boxes. If metal is used the box will "sweat" and create a health problem for the young rabbits. The her When ing doe wiil use the top of the box to sit on. This allows to get away from her babies and keeps her feet warm. the young are a few weeks old they will start followthe doe up to the top. Do not leave the nest box in

28

the cage too surfaces and could result. A nest box and steadied

The rabbits will long. problems with coccidiosis

quickly (see

soil
page

the
40)

wood

can be made from a nail with a piece of wood

keg turned on its side nailed across the front.

A healthy

kt$teh

on a bed od dhy b-thaw.

Weaning
Weaning means removing the babies from their mother. Young rabbits open their eyes lo-11 days after birth. They will come out of the nest box at about three weeks of age, and at this time they start eating food other than their mother's milk. They should be separated from their mother at Qht weeks (no sooner) and placed in another cage for fattZiSii!jF If the young are separated before stop gaint'ng weight for they are eight week s old they will a few days, and might even lose weight. After bfeaning, breed the doe again. Wear, and breed the doe on the same day. if the doe becomes pregnant each time she is bred, she can produce four litters in i2 mo;lths. Btit do not expect to reach this goal at first; it is sometimes difficult even for experienced rabbit raisers.

29

Especially strong does, however, can be bred at 7 weeks or When this is done, the young' even 6 weeks after kindling. should continue to stay with their mother for the full 8 If the does are properly fed so weeks before weaning. this is a very good system of they can stand the strain, breeding. The doe is alone in her cage for only a short time before the next litter is kindled, and the hutch equipment is used to the best advantage.

Determining Sex
This can be done at weaning time (8 weeks) or earlier, Hold the young rabbit as after you gain experience. There are shown here or place it on its back on a table. The opening nearest the tail two openings near the tail. Above this is is where the droppings (manure) come out. Place your thumb the outside opening of the sex organs. Press down below this opening and your finger above it. - gently. You will see the red, moist flesh inside. As you press down you will see a slit or a circle with a If you see a rthe rabbit small hole in the middle. the rabbit is a male. If you see a circle, is a female.

tlotding

20 dekhtmine

a trabbi;t ix6

bex

Appeahame I

06 lthe 4eX ofiganb

30

Orphan Litters
Sometimes a doe dies at kindling Many rabbit breeders will not but young rabbits left young, whole cow or goat milk from a grains and grass at two weeks litters care must be taken to sanitary. or shortly afterward. take time to raise orphan without a doe can be fed bottle until able to eat of age. When raising orphan keep all feeding equipment

Balancing Litter Size

Some breeders mate several does at one time so they will all kindle within a day or two of each other. If a doe has an exceptionally large litter (10-16) and another doe has a small litter (2-4), some of the rabbits from the large litter can be transferred to the smaller one. A litter of eight is an ideal size. Handle young rabbits as little as possible, but do not worry about destroying the scent of the human hand. As soon as the rabbits are placed in the nest box any odor clinging to them is quickly destroyed.

Failures to Conceive
The doe can be sterile, not able to produce young, if the food ration is unbalanced or the weather is too hot or too cold. Commercial breeding has shortened the barren tendency so that it is possible to achieve four or more litters in a year. a balanced diet is very However, important if does and buck- s are to realize this high rate of production. Bucks and does that are too old can account for conception misses. With excellent care and feeding a rabbit will remain profitable to breed for 3-4 years. After this time does tend to give birth to small litters of 2 or 3 young. Animals which have been known to produce well for several years are of special interest to the rabbit raiser. Keep records of good does and select rabbits from the litters of these outstanding does to keep aside for replacement stock. Sore hocks or other injuries can cause a loss in both does and bucks. Rabbits must receive care combined with good management to achieve results. of vitality excellent profitable

5K

eeping Records

If you are only raising rabbits in your backyard, you probably do not need to keep extensive records. The following forms should prove sufficient. However, once you get into a rabbit raising business where keeping a production schedule becomes extremely important, more detailed records may be necessary.

DOE RECORD DOE NUf!BER: 1 mm7 (SIRE): NEWZEALAND, NO. 2 BORN: June 3, 1972 MOTHER(DAM): Kindled Date nf breeding Buck number Expected date Actual date Number alivn Number dead BREED: NEW ZEALAND NEWZEALAND, NO. 5 Weaned Number Date

&fin//

73

fib. //B fi6.2,

73

A$$/$

-.b&&5:

A mnpl!~ doe Irecoti. Each &bit ha4 a name numbe/t. Zze trecoti O/L OnJanuary 1, 1973 tie doe mu bhed by buck numba 1. The expected day 04 k..kU%zg t.m.6Feb. 1, 7973 (34 da& bat she k&deed on Feb. 2, 1973. Eight babies wme ho/m at.&; no de& oneb. Ml!
babies i!hed
Ito wmh$
W&&X

dttdi.On, add a

CO&VI U&M A%Q rweamdttheading.

on Apti

4, 1973 (8

WQQhA).

To

ChQCh

pJw-

32

These sample records (on the page contain information essential to Good records save time and allow duction. Records are the key to handling of the litter. Make an each breeding animal and tack it where it wili remain dry and will rabbit.

before, and below) the careful rabbit raiser. planning of yearly prosuccessful breeding and individual record for somewhere in the cage not be chewed on by the

BUCK RECORD BUCK NUtlCCii: FATHER (SIRE): A.-Date of breeding

i
;;p . tEALAND,

BORN: March 10, 1972 MOTHER(DAM): i/W ;;ALAND, . - Number weaned

BREED: NEW ZEALAND

Resultofhreeding ---. Kindled Alive

Notes

Dead

-__--

Jan. 1, 73 ----

l3uek rh.u2rr ac?%e &heed&

A bample buck hecohd. Use &Lb hecohd oni!y i6 you have mohe than one buck. 16 you have only one buck, you wi.U know how lthe buck ti doing by looking a-t tie doe hecohd. Bu.t even when a bheeding hecohd -Lt no2 kepx, h-i.& number, tie bohn, bneed, &a%eA and tnotheh (b&e and dan!) bhould be imitten on a bma.tt cahd and hung in kid C.tUJQ. 76 many bucks a&e tied do/r bheeding, an indiv~ bhQQding hecohd should be kept 60/r ~a&.

Complete Record Keeping

Mrs. Anne Faunc States wro te in uary 1974, that

e,

a commercial rabbit raiser in the United Countryside and Small Stock Journal,* Jangood records lead to increased pleasu re,

* Now known simply as 312 Portland Road, sin 53594 U.S.A.

33

satisfaction, The remainder article:

and net of this

income section

in a rabbit raising operation. is drawn freely from her

Well-organized, simple record keeping systems do not take long to keep up-to-date and should be kept daily. The time is well-spent. Good records help to reduce mortality (death rate) and to increase regular breeding and conception rates. They help the rabbit raiser to keep litters uniform in number and size of the young. All of these factors can lead to increased profits. Our record system developed as we learned what we wanted and needed to know, and how to record it simply. Every bit is essential for proper evaluation of does and bucks. The buck performance records have increased our net profits steadily. The point individual of keeping records is to use them, so we keep permanent performance records in our house and on each hutch door.

We were able to test such things as control-feeding and breeding schedules with the aid of our individual buck and doe records, plus the herd performance records. Here are some of the things we found: . For our herd, control-feeding produced the same or better weights at the same day-age as free-feeding, a lower mortality rate, as well as the reduced feed cost.
. A 38-39

day rebrezd schedule was the most practical and profitable in supplying our processor with a minimum fryer weight of 4.5 lb (2kg). We get 5 l/4 litters per year. We also get 5-6 year old does producing profitable litters. size made us more money if we limited to 7 or 8 young, depending on the doe. litter

. Our herd act;Aally

We use the same headings for doe and buck performance records and the does' hutch cards; this simplifies recording and understanding. We have found that all we need to know about the bucks while working in the rabbitry is the date bred and the doe's number. We make entries in every column on the does' hutch cards. When working with nest box litters, the information is right at hand to decide how many young to leave with her, or how successful a foster mother she is. We designed our own hutch cards -- according to our own needs. On the following pages are sample cards and explanations of how we set them up: PLEASE NOTE: hutch cards, One kilogram

In the "weight" figures are given = 2.2 pounds.

columns on the in pounds.

Does
OAl: GROVt Ear No. A Born i 1 Buck 1 Date 1 bred 7-22-7/ IDate Iki ' 740. young at 3 weeks Notes I-.// Hutch No. RAGBITRY

Sire

CM3

A-//

Dam A

3$

Identification of the buck used in any mating is needed to compare litters out of different mates, or different litters out of the same mates. You can plan for future matings and stock selection. This date shows you when the doe should kindle, and when to put in the nest box. An "L" (late) in this column would show that the doe did not rebreed on schedule. Its very important to know this: if she's always a late breeder, cull her (separate her out), We learned to save stock only out of does which bred and conceived regularly, year around (in addition to other desirable traits). This includes bucks as well. Using the information in this column rates -- and overall production: in was 82 percent, and our Fall (August conception rate was 70 percent. By 95 percent and the Fall rate was 93 schedule, and conceived. pays off in increased conception 1965 our annual conception rate through December) breedings 1971 annual conception rate was percent. The does bred on

Column 1: Buck

Column 2: Date bred

Column 3: Date kindled

This gives you a reference point for recording exact age in days of the young later on. Shows if the doe is always late, early or on time. Not needed on buck records.

of young born. If some were born dead, or died soon after birth, we indicated this as a two part figure: 14/10 -- 14 the total number born, and 10 the number alive and well. This column is useful in doe and buck evaluation.

Column 4: Number of young kindled Shows the total number

35

days to get the doe to This figure If it's on. litter, the

number of youn at 1 week all 1 Ftters Cttled

We found it frequently takes 4-7 down to the exact number we expect raise; so we decided that one week was a practical date. is used as the reference for checking any mortality later a good, bad, even or uneven (in quality -- not number) appropriate letter is added. A summary of the litter's nest box of number for future sales, and To rate the litter, appraisal add the of

ffh~h~ number
appropriate

5: Youn at 3 weeks Useful Kn early estimate

of sire Shows survival letter. and dam.

in evaliation

and mortality.

age in da SAccuracy in days is necessary the rate oY weight gain in the nest box.

for proper

weight of litter

Shows the capability to give his young milk. You can compare with records. When breeding for of great importance, because his daughters.

doe's nursing ability, and also the sire's the ability to make the most of the doe's other litters on the sire's and dam's herd bucks, the doe's milking ability is she passes this on through her son to sum it up

Column 6: Weaned
for the commercial rabbit

This and the next column really raiser.

number
important records.

Shows survival and mortality in the litter. This is for sales, and as part of the does and buck's performance to a pound a day at factual judgement.

age in days Since a whole litter can gain close the age of 8-g weeks, exactness is essential for

weight of litter

We weigh the whole litter at once -- it's a lot quicker and easier, and more accurate than one by one and adding it at the total number of pounds produced, up= Since we look closely it is logical. This is the real key to profit and loss on a litter, and reflects the performance -- and profitability -- of a doe or buck. Included in this figure are any young saved for breeding stock: evmh they are to be separated out, they would of course be marketable. Holdover fryers to be used as breeders eat up the profit of those sold, and take up valuable hutch space -- so use your records well and take care in selecting breeding stock.

Column 7: Number Marketable on Time (MOT)

Limited space means limiting notes to important things, and abbreviating legibly, such as WNB for "wet nest box," O.F. for "off feed," S4D for "saved 4 does" (for breed stock), etc.

Column 8: Notes

36

Source:

A buck mcorrd

Stoch Jouknd

COudJy&.idide 5 smau

After we started keeping the same records on the bucks' performance sheets, we found that it made a helpful difference in judging the doe's performance. We could now be sure if some things were the doe's fault or not. A high mortality rate among fryers or an irregular growth rate would be reason to check the records of the bucks she has been mated with. If those bucks show up well, then she can be culled without wasting time, feed and hutch space on "another chance;" if the bucks do not show up well, then the doe's service is continued and we check the bucks. Having both doe and buck records makes it a lot easier to find the poor performers faster and without losing any more money. After the records have been in use for a year or so, these problems are likely to disappear. Keeping the buck records and using them has really made our herd more profitable. We were able to work on facts instead of impressions. Once I had to put our favorite buck on the "stew list." In spite of the buck's being beautifully built, a terrific worker with even the reluctant does, throwing good, uniform, easily identifiable litters, his offspring just didn't grow out well. His MOT equalled low number of only 46 percent ! Other things that showed up were: young kindled, high kindling mortality, high fryer mortality, uneven litters. All good culling reasons, not easily found out without records.

37 About three times a year we evaluate every buck's performance record and give him a herd rating. This is in addition to normal checking and any special watching needed in between. Young bucks are first rated after their tenth breeding litter goes to market. Foster litters, or any litter where more than two have been added, are not included. By taking the total numbers of young at one week, at weaning and MOT we can calculate the percentage rates for mortality and marketability-on-time. The herd bucks then are listed according to percentage raised and MOT of the litters. Those at the bottom are culled. The first time we used this rating, 7 out of 28 bucks were culled for less than a 65 percent MOT rating. Exactly one year later, 6 out of 28 with less than an 80 percent MOT rating were culled. Four months later, we culled two bucks; all the rest had 85-95 percent MOT. And along with the increase in MOT came a very nice increase in profits! If something undesirable showed up in a buck between herd ratings, we did Ilot wait to cull him. I cannot stress enough how much difference it can make financially to keep and use performance records on both does and bucks. They give the information necessary to make good management decisions on breeding, selection-and culling.

6
Rabbit Diseases and Their Control
It is best to prevent Following difficult. keeping rabbits free
.

disease; treating these simple rules from disease:

disease is often can do much toward

Keep hutch, nest boxes, water CLEAN. Clean wire floors with after each litter, Give stale Protect Keep rabbits food fresh green from mangers. from dogs food

cans and mangers soap and water to sun, eat. rain Remove and drafts.

. .

rabbits unfriendly

intense away. hutch from

Use wire netting for should be "cornerless." Take sick immediately. Watch for rabbits signs of

floors. the other

Hutch

floors

away the

rabbits

following

diseases.

-Coccidiosis
Signs:

(intestinal)
Rabbit Diarrhea, a swollen belly. hunched position and will not eat. rabbit staggers around and is not its balance. This disease attacks tween the ages of 2 and 10 weeks. can cause death. A one-celled lining of the animal rabbit's parasite living intestines. sits in a Often the able to keep rabbits beCoccidiosis in the Sulfato the

Cause: Treatment:

Mecryl Powder, Sulphamezathine, quinoxaline or Eimryl Urgence prevent and treat this disease. directions for each medication

Amprol, are used Follow carefully.

40

coccidiosis

(continued)
This disease is spread through the droppings Keep the hutch clean at infected rabb its. times: one d irty corner in the hutch could lead to this disease. of all i

Hutch floors should be of wire netting. If the netting is stretched tight, there will be little need for additional supports. If you must use wood supports build them as shown You can also use rod iron. here.

WiRh With on&y an edge buppohL&g lthe wine, dhoppingd will ball away on each Aide on 06 ;the wood and keep .the (Loorr clean= keep (Loorr
.the

Ear Mange
Signs: Cause:
Dirty ears. Crusts on Often the rabbit shakes its ears. Mites. These only see them dig under the rabbit's ears inner its surface head or of ear. scratches

insects are so small you can They with a magnifying glass. skin on the inside of the and cause pain.

Treatment:

Remove the crusts with your fingernai'l. Go to a pharmacy and ask for a solution of 0.25 percent Lindane in vegetable oil, or a mixture of 2 parts iodoform, 10 parts ether and 25 parts vegetable oil. Swab either one of these solutions inside the ear with a piece of cloth Apply again after one week. Check or cotton. all other rabbits' ears for this problem.

41

Remarks:

This disease can destroy the centers of balance If a rabbit is not in the rabbit's inner ear. treated for this disease it will result in a the rabbit will condition known as wry neck: hold its head to one side or fall over. Once this happens to a rabbit, it cannot be treated. The best thing to do is prevent it by treating the ear mange promptly.

Colds
Signs:
Sneezing and rubbing the nose with the front This Fluid will show around the nose. feet. fluid may be thin and clear, or it may be thick and yellow. Several Reduce giving rabbit types of bacteria and virus.

Cause: Treatment: Remarks:

the amount of concentrates you are Give the your rabbit for a few days. all the green grass and leaves it wants. animals in over-crowded, Protect rabbits from lots of fresh greens

This disease attacks damp, dirty hutches. rain. Always provide eat.

to

Sore Hocks
Signs:
Rocking forward on front feet; hind feet show Rabbit may lose the fur sores on the bottom. pad on the so'ie of the foot, with scales and If allowed to get irritation in this area. worse, the foot bleeds or becomes spongy with pus draining from it. Wet or rough fioors which rabbits bang their Floors that are sharp, that sag feet upon, are filthy, may contribute too much, or that to this. Soak the affected parts in warm, soapy water Rinse and dry until the crusts come off. Rub in ointment but do not use thoroughly. much that the foot becomes sticky and picks dirt (use zinc ointment, petroleum jelly, sulfathiazole ointment), Keep their quiet rabbits feet. animals. undisturbed so they do not bang Select replacement stock from

Caiise:

Treatment:

so up

Remarks:

42

Sore Eyes
Signs:
Rubbing eyes with feet. or thick thin and clear, Irritation wire, etc. Clean water. silver from flies or Fluid from and yellow. injury from eye either

Cause:
Treatment: Remarks:

jagged

eyes with boric acid water, or just clean Apply ophthalmic ointment (antibiotic, oxide, yellow oxide of mercury, Argyrol). often be contagious.

This can animals.

Isolate

sick

Signs: Cause: Treatment:

The rabbit shows an intense itching, the becomes reddened and irritated, the hair and yellow crusts may be present. out, Mites (similar to ear mange).

skin comes

Wash the affected area with warm soapy water, rabbits can get rinse and dry (important: pneumonia if not dried quickly). Clip the hair away from the edges of the sore area. Rub dry flowers of sulphur into the skin Repeat treatment in four to six thoroughly. days. Isolate Contagious. and disinfect hutches diseased animals. infected which arrimals. have been Clean used by

Remarks:

Mucoid Enteritis (Scours or Bloat)

Signs:
Drinking but no eating. up with squinting eyes, have dull, rough coats, They may have diarrhea. The cause is not to be contagious. known, Rabbits sit grind their and swollen but it is not hunched teeth, bellies. thought

Cause: Treatment:

No specific treatment known. Take away all food and water for 48 hours; then give small Let quantities of green food for a few days. them have small amounts of water during this time. Usually affects rabbits at about six weeks Do not confuse this with coccidiosis, age. which can be treated. of

Remarks:

43

Pneumonia
Signs:
Heavy breathing, Rabbit often tilts its head back so that the nose is in the air. Rabbit moves very little and will not eat. Body temperature, as shown by a thermometer placed in the rectum, is high (39.5 - 41C -- or 103 - 106OF). As the animal gets worse the eyes and ears may show a bluish color because of lack of oxygen. Bacteria. Usually comes with other diseases, or if animal is pregnant, nursing young, or chilled and wet. Also attacks very young rabbits. Injections of antibiotics given before the disease progresses too far. The Veterinarian will usually give 200,000 units plus 0.25gm dihydroatreptomycin intra-muscularly (into a muscle) in the hind leg; Keep animal warm and reduce concentrates and give plenty of dry, green feed and and clean water. The critical time for the doe is two weeks before and two weeks after kindling. Watch Pneumonia the doe closely during these times. also can follow right after many of the other diseases. Treat and isolate Watch for it. infected animals promptly.

Cause:

Treatment:

Remarks:

Caked Breast (Caked Udder)

Signs:
In early cases, firm, pink and on, little knots FOilOWiPrg this, become dry and the breasts (one or more) are feel hot to the touch. Later can be felt in the breasts. the breasts may darken and cracked. the few breasts young, fast or not be

Cause: Treatment:

Milk not being taken from enough. Doe may have too letting them nurse.

Reduce concentrates and provide plenty of green Rub Lanolin (or oil or feed and clean water. some kind of skin-softening agent) well into the breasts and try to get milk to flow by massaging and encouraging young to nurse. If breasts crack, soften crusts and allow to drain, but do not lance with a knife. Do not milking wean all does at the the young rabbits same time; from heavily take a few

Remarks:

44

caked breast (continued)

at a time
from her. Breed heavy milkers a few days before weaning the young. If a heavy milker loses a li,tter, breed her again at Breeding helps to reduce the milk in once. the breasts. Avoid disturbances, particularly at night.

If breasts start getting blue, the doe should have antibiotic injections (Penicillin) at Isolate the doe and wash your hands once. thoroughly before taking care of other does.

y Skinning, and Tanning Rabbits

Animals are killed when they reach the desired market getting the meat is more important In many cases, weight. When possible, rabbits are than worrying about the skin. gaining weight at a slower rate, so that they kept longer, can be kept until the combined value of the meat (carcass) and pelt (skin) will bring the highest return. In the United States, 80 percent of the rabbits marketed This means they are tender and are classed as "fryers." To become classisuitable for quicker cooking methods. fied as fryers, medium and heavy breeds of rabbits are weaned and marketed at two months of age, when their weight The meat that you averages 1.7 - 2kg (3 3/4 - 4 l/2 lb), actually are able to "dress" out of the animal -- or fryer average from 50 to 60 percent yield of the carcass -- will of the live weight. At the time of s:,-ughter there should be some fat over the ribs, along the backbone, in the flanks, and around the increasing the dressing percent tailhead and the kidneys, rabbits must be To do this, over that of the thin rabbit. Small bones and thin skin show quality in properly fed. medium breeds with small bones an animal. Because of this, and thin skin will give higher dressing percent than ones with large bones and thick skins. Se stomach and intestines The amount of food in If the rabbit is effect on dressing percent. food and water for a few hours before killing, percent will be lower. The profit you feed and labor market price. In the following on killing and get from cost you a fryer have to has an without the dressing

will depend on how much subtract from the fryer's instructions of rabbits.

two sections and skinning,

are step-by-step tanning the hides

47

Killing and Skinning a Rabbit

Rabbits animals. two or easier to kill and clean than any other farm the whole job can be done in With experience, Follow these steps: three minutes! Kill the rabbit quickly and painHold it by the hind legs, lessly. In a few head pointing down. seconds he will stop struggling and With the edge of the hang quietly. palm of your free hand (or with a pipe or stick), give a quick "chopping" blow to the back of its This blow will kill the neck. rabbit quickly without pain. are

t&X.&kg a &abbiX wi$h a blow

Some people prefer dislocating The the neck to kill a rabbit. operatinn is faster than the blow to the neck and well suited to the commercial rabbit raiser. Hold the rabbit by the hind iegs The thumb of the with one hand. other hand is placed on the neck just behind the ears, with the fingers grasping the neck. Pressing down on the thumb while quickly pulling the rabbtt upwards dislocates the neck.

KiLLing a trabbilt by di~&ocaLing the neck

48

Next, hang the rabbit by one of the hind legs using a piece of rope or twine, or by pi;tting a large nail through the hind leg.

After this, off the head, front feet, the one hind not attached rope or nail.

cut and foot by

Now, cut the skin on the leg of the foot attached nail. Continue this cut and up the other leg.

inside by the to the

of the rope or tai?

line 06 cu-t, @iom hock Ro hock

CompLete the ct.& to zhe

hock o,j -the othek Leg.

49

Peel the skin off both and cut the tail off. pulling the skin down.

hind Start

legs

Continue pulling and completely

the off the

skin down body.

Peel ihe -stzi~ 066 ;ths body.

Skin pulted 066 xhe body

Now, with your knife, slit the body of the rabbit up the middle but do not cut of the belly, the intestines. To finish, remo ve everyth ing inside except t ,he kidneys , liver and heart, whit h are good to eat. Cut up the cart ass or coo k whole.

50

Tanning a Rabbit Skin

In the introduction to this manual it was said tha;a;;n: beautiful items could be made with rabbit skins. skins must be tanned (treated so they will be soft and durable) before they can be used to make hats,. rugs, and other articles. This is not very difficult to do and one method is given below: ' Take the skin it on a board fur side down and slit it up the middle. Tack or the side of the house with the and the skin side up. to see if it of fat or meat.

. The following day examine the skin is drying flat. Remove any patches Let the skin dry completely.

. After the skin is dry, soak it in clean, cool water. When the skin is Change the water several times. soft, lay it over a pole or board and work over the skin side with a coarse file or dull knife to Thfsill also remove any tissue, flesh or fat. All the fat and oil remove any grease or oil. must be out of the skin before continuing. . NOW put the skin in warm water with 30gm (about Get soda or loz) of soda or borax to the gallon. Add a little ~o;~~;o~~~lp borax atthe pharmacy. remove the grease and clean the skin. skin in this mixture and then remove the skin. Squeeze the water out of the skin slowly and carefully. . Wash the skin in a little remove the last bits of gasoline dirt and which grease. will

. Now the skin is ready to be preserved with chemYou will need about .45kg (1 lb) icals (tanned). of ammonia alum (ammonium aluminum sulfate) or potash alum(potassium aluminum sulfate) to dissolve one allon of water. After this, soda and about add about 1lOgm 9 402) washing 225gm (80~) of salt in l/2 gallonof water. Pour the soda-safwater mixture slowly into the alum-water mixture while stirring well. Take about a cup ?f this mixture and add baking Tack out flour until you make a thin paste. m-skin smoothly w!th the fur side down. Put ;k;c[aste on the skin side about 1/2cm (l/4 in) . Lay a piece of paper or cloth over it. most of Repeat the this paste and for two

. The next day scrape off put some more on again*

51

more skin

days (Repeat for only is from a young rabbit). layer of

one

more

day

if

the it

Now put another for four days. Finally, a gallon or borax. outa71the directions. over the in making ed work. long time now ready handbags

paste

on and

leave

scrape off the paste and wash the skin in of water with about 30gm (102) of soda Rinse the skin in cool water. Squeeze water and stretch the skin in all Pull the skin side back and forth edge of a board. Much of the success a soft skin depends upon this repeatAfter you have worked the skin for a it will become soft and dry. It is to be made into beautiful rugs, hats, or collars for dresses.

Rabbia &kin4 hide ou;t, and Xanning.

can be
keplt

bthe;tched oveh dhy gOh 4eveha.t

wiete, dLedh month& bedohe

Part 2

Hutch Construction

Detailed step-by-step instructions for building a wood hutch with a sheet metal roof are presented first. Following are a few sketches and notes on a variation on made with a wood frame and bamboo this basic hutch desjgn, Both hutches provide good living and sides and roof. breeding space for rabbits.

wood and
bamboo Iu.&c#z

-4i I

56

Wood Hutch with

Metal

Roof

VITA

has prepared these conVolunteer George R. Clark struction steps from plans provided by Harlan Attfield. Some construction tips: Be sure all edges on floor are flush, so all rabbit droppings fall to the ground. is fastened to posts, to the rabbits. turn wire edges

Where wire netting down to avoid injury ..

57

i rl

n
X 1.25~~ VVtRE-SCREEN

STRETCH SCREEN OVER BASE TRIM FLUSH WITH B-I-I-OM EDGE STAPLE EVERY 5CM

59

T%,
P d

66~~

I
h

Iz

DRILL
BEFORE NAll-lNG

HOLES

\ USE

CORRUGATED

F~3TENEZ.RS

IF AVAILABLE5

60

DIVIDiZRS
COVER \rZ/\TH SCREEN

LEFT SHOWN.

CE-NTER

DIVIDER

RIGHT CENTER PUT- SCREEl-4

DW/IDER
ON -l-HIS

ENDS -.-

61

CPT-ION

FOR COViZ.QING

ENDS

62

TWRN END

BASE. + NAIL

ON SID

64

65

--

MET41, ---

HUTCH

ROOF

LFT ROOF EXTEND

APPROh. 7.5~~ BEVOND )4Ll-fCH ON SIDES (c

NAIL Wtl-)4 R0OFf~lC3 NAILS OR 5cwLONG UEADED hJAlt3

15CM ON

APPROX

EVERY

f it.5

cM

THICK

TIN CON-I-AlNERd CUT OPEN 4 FL.ATTtZ.NED. START QOW AT BCfTTOM BACK &WORK UP ROOF OVEF?LAPPING SEAMS AeoUT MAY E3E CoA-l-ED SCM* SEAMS WITH PITCH OR RCI0FlNG CEMEN-IBEFORrr, NA\LING, IF AVAlLABLE.

ALTERNATE ROOF
FOR HUTC)-\

I. CUT BOARDS To WIDTH 4 LENGTH, 2.MEASURE OFF POSlTlON 5lZE OF NOTCH. a MAKE t SAW CUTS. 4. CHISE .L OUT MATERIAL $

BETWEEN
MATERlAL:

SAW CUTS.

2.5 x 5CM MAKE 2 P1FCF5 62.5 LONG MAKE 4 PIECES 63 LONG

CUTTNG
_TOP&

DFTALS BOT-T-0M

FOR

DOOR

FRAME-

PARTS

FRAME

MEMBERS

STEPS
1. CUT BQARDTO 4 ~EM3Tt-l.
2.

D-n-4

MEASURE

4 MAF ,U

SIZE% OF NOTCH.
3.

SAW IN FROM SIDE.

4. SAW IN FROM END.

MINiMUM 7.5CM LOFVG. DRILL HOLES BEF=0RE hiAILING l-0 AVOlD SPLITTING

DOOR
DOE

FRAMES
DOOKS

MATERLW-:

APPROX. 2.5X 5CM

MAKF 2
U 4

SEE D0OR DE-TAILS

3 NAIL3 -

MINIMVM 7,5ct,tLC++JG,
DRILL HOLE5 BEFORE NAlLlNG TO AVOID SPLITTING

BUCK Doon. MATERIAL: APpRoX 2.5 X 5 CM

SEE

Foli

DOOR DETAllS NOTCHING

MAKF

ONE

CWT VVIRF AS SHOWN

SCREEN ABOVE BEND AS 5HOWN1

MATERIAL: 1.5~~

SQUARE

WIRE

MESH

SCREEN

MAKE

RIGHT

HAND

DOE WXJR

1. STAPLE INSlDE~k FRAME

MANGER E30--rl-OM OPENING.

TO OF OVER A5

2,STAPLE 5CRt;EN REET OF FRAME INOICAT ED.

3.Ti4lf-4 W\RE AC FRO55 MANGER OfEN ING,

Nm-E:

MAKE

Lz WI&E

\\\

77

Wood and Bamboo

Hutch

Assemble a teak frame. Attach a wire floor (1 x lcm / l/2 x l/2'@ squares).

mesh

78

1.

Nail wall.

full-length

strips

of

bamboo

along

the

back each bam-

Nail double walls of bamboo strips to form divider between cages, and single walls of boo strips at each end of the hutch.

In this hutch, nest boxes made from wood crates have been built right into the outside wall of each of the end cages.

..

79

split bamboo lengths into halves, chip To make a roof, out the "nodes" with a hammer, paint the inside surfaces with a waterproofing substance like creosote or and nail down onto the top of the hutch frame solignum, Make the in an interlocking pattern (shown above). bamboo lengths long enough to overlap the front and back of the hutch. After nailing down the bottom bamboo pieces of the roof* you can either nail each top piece to the bottom or lay all the top pieces into place without ones, and hold them permanently in place by nailing nailing, every half meter or so through two or three half-sections of bamboo laid along the length of the hutch over the top pieces.

Frame a door to cover the entire front of each cage, and cover with bamboo strips nailed into each frame. Attach the doors to the hutch with two 4" hinges each and a latch for each,

Worm Husbandry
Turn your rabbit of the farmer's manure greatest accumulation friends -and the falling into a home for the earthworm. one

Growing worms is easy manure and waste feed food for earthworms..

Rabbit advantages are many. through the wire make good floors, and and compost of the very

Dig pits or place shallow bins below the hutch stock them with worms. The worms will consume the pellets, creating finely ground fertilizer highest quality.

Bins or shallow pits can be formed from cement, cinder blocks, or lumber (2 x 12") and are sunk a few inches into the ground. Since worms breed best at temperatures above 4.5"C (40"), pits should be sunk low enough to insure against soil temperatures colder than this during the fall. During winter the worms will slow down or become dormant. The colony will quickly re-activate during the spring when the soil temperature rises. Bins or pits should be a few centimeters or inches larger than the actual size of the hutch so they will catch every pellet. "Pit-run" worms are economical to start with and are obtainable from earthworm growers and many rabbit raisers. To start a "worm farm" lay down a starter mix of 50 percent rabbit manure and 50 percent peat moss or fine compost. If moles are a problem, lcm (l/2") square wire mesh can be A few inches used to line the bottom and sides of the pit. of crushed limestone can be placed at the bottom of the pit to correct manure acidity and provide a porous base for drainage. Keep the pits moist by sprinkling with a little water. Some rabbit and worm growers make a habit of emptying the water crocks directly into the worm bins when freshening the rabbits' water supply. The only other work involved is leveiling the pits as the compost "grows" and forking over the bin contents every 2 or 3 weeks to keep it loose.

n the bins get too full of worms some of them sh 0 uld be ked out (a shovel will cut the worms), and depos i ted in garden, flower beds, or greenhouse, or they can be s old. excellent eders in Raising book on earthworms the United States Earthworms for that is: is used by rab

Profit

by Earl B. Shields P. 0. Box 472 Elgin, Illinois USA

cost:

60120

$2.00

(US)

VITA Publications
IITA's manuals reflect the organization's emphasis on designing, developing and distributing village and collvrunity level technologies which are appropriate for use in developing countries. 9t the same time, these technologies have application wherever people are interested in protecVITA makes this technology available through ting resources and in doing things themselves. its Publications Service, which distributes material worldwide. YITAs Publications Service seeks to print and distribute manuals in a form which can be used easily by the extension agent in a field situation or by the do-it-yourselfer at home. The naterial is offered at low prices, in clear, often fully illustrated format and in non-technical language.

hwuncing

...

+lAlL FARM GRAIN STORAGE(1976) 575 pages .nglish i conmXica1 overview of small farm lrainstorage questions for use by development rorkers and others concerned with small-scale Includes plans for grain lrain production. lryer and storage facilities, instructions for %odent and insect control. :RESHWATER FISH POND CULTUREAND MANAGEMENT '1976) 200 pages English i aulde to olannlns. construction and main:aining smaller-scale fish pond operations. ncludes information on selecting warm water Ysh, choosing drainage systems, treating fish 'or disease, fertilizing ponds, and so on. EFORESTATiDN IN ARID LANDS (forthcoming) nglish 'rovides suidelines for plannins and carrvinq lut a refbrestation project -- from nursery to Includes information on slanting site. Ilanting, transplanting and transporting. Extensive appendices present a detailed look ,t trees, soil, climate, and reforestation .ctivities in sub-Saharan West Africa. SING WATERRESOURCES(forthcoming) 150 pages nglish vailable for the first time as a separate ffering in response to user demand,.this olume is an excerpt from VITA's ever popular, ighly touted VILLAGE TECHNOLOGY HANDBOOK (also ncluded on this list). USING WATER RESOURCES ontains information and plans for tubewells nd dug wells, water lifting, pumps, water toring and purifying, and so on. ANDLOOM CONSTRUCTION(forthcoming) English ontains detailed, fully Illustrated step-hytep construction procedures for three types f handloom.

RABBIT RAISING (forthcoming) English K complete guide for the rabbit raiser. Contains guidelines for breeding rabbits, treating for disease, feeding stock, building hutches (- keeping records, and tanning skins.

. . . of contlnulng

interest

VILLAGE TECHNOLOGY HANDBOOK (1970) 350 pages English, French, Spanish ~TA's helpful guide to alternative technologies. Provides detailed technical plans in the areas of water resources, tools for agriculture, construction and sanitation, among others. AUTOMOTIVEOPERATION AND MAINTENANCE(1975) 202 pages English A manual for drivers who deal with poor roads and poor service facilities. SMOKING FISH IN A CARDBOARD SMOKEHOUSE (1966) 12 pages English, French, Spanish HOWTO SALT FISH (1966) English, Spanish 10 pages

SOLAR COOKER CONSTRUCTIONMANUAL (1967) 25 pages English, Spanish FRESH PRODUCE HANDLING AND DISTRIBUTION (1968) 10 pages English Excerpted from the VILLAGE TECHNOLOGY HANDBOOK GROUNDNUT (PEANUT) HULLER (revised 8 pages English, French 19773

HOWTO PERFORM AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT AN (1971) 30 pages English, French

MAKIHG BUILDING BLOCKS WITH THE CINVA-RAM BLOCK PRESS (1966) 30 pages Enqllsh, French, Spanish SMALL SCALE MANUFACTURE BURNEDBUILDING OF BRICK (1968) 24 pages English, French, Spanish, Portuguese DESIGN GUIDE FOR LIGHT AIRCRAFT AIRPORT (1970) 50 pages English WATERPROOFING SOIL CONSTRUCTION(1973) 15 pages En lich, French A h$ipfu + guia%mng local tree and other materials to provide substances for waterproofing constructions made of earth. HEALTH RECORDS SYSTEtl (1971) English 25 pages

BAT CONTROL(1963)

8 pages

English 25 pages

CHALK STICK MAKING (1969) English, French

PLAYGROUND MANUAL (1969) 40 pages English A good selection of playground equipment which can be made from local and imported materials. A GUIDE TO MOBILIZING TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE VOLUNTEERS(1975) 75 paoes English, Portuque An in-depth look at a VIlA-type operation. SIMPLE FURNITURE OESIGtl (1975) Engljsh 20 pages

Highly recommended and available from VITA..

BANDAGESIMPREGNATED WITH PLASTER OF PARIS (1971) 2.2 pages English LOWCOST DEVELOPMENT SMALL WATERPOWER OF SITES (1967) 50 pages English, French, Spanish HYDRAULIC RAM FOR VILLAGE USE (1970) English, French, Spanish 15 pages

APPROPRIATETECHNOLOGY SOURCEEOOK (1976) by Ken Darrow and Rick Pam, Volunteers in 305 pages English Asia, Inc. A auide to Practical olans and books for village and-small community technology. Contains reviews of 375 selected U.S. and international publications on alternatIve sources of energy, shop tools, agriculture, low-cost housing, water supply and so on. Includes addresses and prices for entries. LIKLIK BUK. A RURAL DEVELOPMENT HANDBOOK CATALOGUE(1977) 270 pages English Prepared for use bv communet\/ level leaders and-others interested in 'village self-help action in Papua, New Guinea, this valuable handbook provides plans and leads to information on subjects of worldwide importance; for example, village industry and crafts, fish culture, animal husbandry, water resource development, visual aids for community education, so11 management; building and road construction.

LOW COST WINDMILL FOR DEVELOPING NATIONS (1970) 45 pages English, French DESIGN M4NUAL FOR WATER\?rHEELS(1975) English HANDPUMPS FOR VILLAGE WELLS (1975 ) English 80 pages

15 pages

For information on availability and prices, contact

::

VlTA

Publications

Service

3706 Rhode Mt. Ralnler, USA

Island Ave. Maryland 20822

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