Exterior Stucco
Exterior Stucco
Exterior Stucco
Ian Constantinides and Lynne Humphries
In this article stucco is used to describe lime-based renders applied as a two- or three-part coating to external
facades in the 19th century.
The use of stucco or smooth render to simulate finely dressed stonework or rustication became popular in parts of
Britain in the early 19th century. The material was often applied over brickwork but also sometimes over rubble
stone. Not only was the appearance of finely jointed work or rustication achievable in stucco, it was also far more
affordable than stone in many parts of the country.
External stucco had been introduced into London in the later 18th century and was increasingly used to satisfy the
Regency and early Victorian taste for smooth, evenly coloured house fronts, its cost amounting to about one quarter
that of stone. Mid-Victorian fashions, however, as well as the fall in the price of stone, helped to phase out stucco
very quickly after 1860. Later in the century, terracotta came into its own as a cheap and durable material for
applied decoration and aggrandisement.
Although stucco remained popular in London for more conservatively designed houses until the 1870s, by the mid-
Victorian period this form of embellishment was losing favour with many builders in London as the principles of
Ruskin and Pugin filtered through to them and the Gothic Revival took hold, although it continued to remain popular
in other parts of the country, particularly in seaside resorts, probably because stucco provides an excellent defence
against salt-laden spray.
Stucco always remained a very regional material as it was rarely used if good stone was readily available, as in
Bristol and Bath. Examples of stucco in Scotland are rare.
CONSTRUCTION
Stucco renders are of three basic types: a fat lime and
sand mix sometimes with animal hair as reinforcement; a
hydraulic mix containing either hydraulic lime and sand,
or fat lime with a pozzolanic additive and sand; and
various forms of mastic. Correct identification of the
material used is essential when carrying out repairs to
ensure both historical continuity and structural
compatibility, as a different mortar mix may well be
incompatible with the original.
LIME-BASED STUCCO
Lime plasters perform best in layers of uniform thickness. They are applied in two or three coats. The mix should be
as dry as workably possible as this reduces the shrinkage and cracking on drying and, prior to the application of
each coat, the surface should be sprayed down with clean water. This wetting helps to prevent moisture from being
sucked out of each stucco application too rapidly, which results in cracking, loss of bond, and generally poor quality
stuccowork.
The success of external lime-based stucco is in the tending. The longer it takes to dry out the better it will perform.
Each coat of a fat lime stucco should be allowed to dry for between seven and 21 days, depending on the mix,
season, weather and temperature, prior to applying subsequent coats. For a hydraulic lime mix the interval between
coats can be as little as two or three days. It is most important to protect the work during and after application to
prevent either accelerated or prolonged drying. In hot weather or situations where rapid drying is likely, the work
should be protected with damp hessian. In addition, work must be completed long before the first frost.
MASTIC
In the late 18th and early 19th centuries different mastic recipes were patented by a succession of people trying to
produce a high quality but inexpensive stucco. These included 'Adam's New Invented Patent Stucco' used by the
Adam brothers, Robert and James (in fact based on stucco recipes patented by David Work in 1763 and Liadet in
1773), Christopher Dehl's mastic (1815), and Hamelin's Cement (1817).
The various forms of mastic generally consisted of a fine aggregate such as limestone, sands, crushed pottery and
glass bound with linseed oil, often with litharge (lead monoxide) to aid drying. Dehl's mastic, for example, which is
believed to have been used by Nash at Regent's Park and Carlton House Terrace, London, was made of 'linseed oil
boiled with litharge and mixed with [fired] porcelain clay, finely powdered and coloured with ground brick or pottery,
turpentine being used as the thinner'.(2) The background was liberally coated with linseed oil before applying the
mastic.
Mastic can be recognised by the fact that it repels water. The material did not age well and tends to be very brittle.
Where large areas have failed, John Ashurst recommends using a stucco made from hydraulic lime as an
alternative to mastic. However, it can generally be said that repair of mastic stuccos is fraught with problems. On the
whole the principal of 'like for like' may be followed.
The topcoat of stucco was often given a smooth, trowelled finish, and scored or lined in imitation of ashlar. This
effect could be achieved in three ways: joint lines could be marked on while the top coat is still green using a tool
called a jointer; the joints may be formed by sunken, slightly chamfered battens fixed to the second coat and then
removed after the top coat stucco has set firm; or they may be run by a double horsed running mould. Special care
must be taken to match to the existing work in position, spacing and style.
Generally, traditional renders of any period were painted, with the exception of some early experimental stucco
recipes which were slef-coloured, sometimes enhanced with a wash of copperas (iron sulphate) to give the
appearance of Bath stone, but often it was left unpainted, particularly where fine aggregates were used. A thin line
of white lime putty, graphite, or some other pigment sometimes enhanced the illusion of masonry joints.(3) If using
pigments today, it is important to ensure they are compatible with lime
Arguably the most common reason for the failure of stucco is neglect. While stucco is a durable material, regular
maintenance is required to prevent excessive water penetration and a breakdown of the surface. Failure of
rainwater disposal systems, such as from blocked or damaged gutters is one of the most common causes of failure,
which often leads to salt efflorescence, staining and biological growth. Excessive water penetration is liable to cause
loss of adhesion either between the stucco coats or from the substrate, causing bulging and, ultimately, collapse.
Trapped water may also freeze and expand causing dramatic failure, or it may move into the structural fabric of the
building, possibly damaging the interior. Increased wetting and drying cycles contribute towards soluble salt activity
as salts contained in the masonry are carried to the surface. Here they crystallise, resulting in an unsightly bloom of
efflorescence or, worse still, a crumbling surface caused by 'cryptoflorescence' - the crystallisation of salts within the
pores. Visible damp zones are frequently the first sign of a problem. Regular checks and maintenance of gutters,
hoppers and downpipes are easily carried out and can prevent extensive failure and loss of original stucco surfaces.
All too often deterioration is caused by inappropriate repairs. The use of the wrong materials can exacerbate the
rate of decay rather than slowing it down or preventing decay. Typical of this sort of problem is the use of hard
cementitious materials incompatible with the stucco or lime based render. Cement based renders are more likely to
crack than lime renders and consequently to let in the rain, as they move differentially to lime renders. Cracks will
also form at the junction between the original and the modern repair.
Raising the ground level at the foot of elevations increases water retention within elevations and encourages rising
damp. Prolonged moisture retention encourages biological activity such as moss growth which may cause local
disaggregation. Ultimately larger plants may take hold, bringing with them further problems such as root penetration.
Surprisingly, modern synthetic paint systems which form impermeable barriers are still frequently applied over
previously limewashed stucco, causing retention of water and associated problems as outlined above.[3] Modern
impervious systems trap water behind the surface causing deterioration, which outweighs any possible advantage
of imparting water repellence to the face.
REPAIRS
As with all conservation work, it is most important to record the area to be conserved prior to commencement as
well as during work.
One of the first tasks may be to remove inappropriate materials and methods of repair and replace with the
appropriate stucco/render. However, removal should only be carried out if this does not put greater risk on the
original fabric. It may also be necessary to cut out defective areas of original that cannot be saved.
When conserving fine or delicate decorative details it may be advantageous to face-up original material around the
perimeter of earlier repairs with acid-free tissue prior to removal of crude repairs to prevent any loss of detail.
Cracks greater than 2mm in a lime-based stucco should be carefully cut out to form a slight undercut which will act
as a key, and thoroughly flushed out with water to remove dust and loose debris before being filled with fresh mortar
based on trial results. Obviously a finer aggregate will be required where the crack is fine or hairline and it is often
deemed unnecessary to undercut as the space is easily filled especially if limewash is to be applied.
Hollow areas and voids in a lime-based stucco should be flushed out likewise, although in this case it may be
necessary to form a small hole at the base of the void to allow water to escape. Acetone may be used or added to
the water to assist drying. A ten per cent solution of Primal WS24 may be injected into the void prior to grouting in
order to increase the bond between grout and internal face, before injecting a fine grout based on lime putty or, in
the case of a mastic, a similar mix based on analysis results. It is very important to observe the surface of the
stucco while grouting to check for escape holes, surface bulging and consequent loss. Vulnerable areas should be
supported until the grout has set. Finally the surface of the stucco is reinstated to its original profile, where possible
without causing loss.
Salt efflorescence may be dry brushed and removed from all surfaces, as should all algal growth. A suitable biocide
should be applied to affected areas only, to remove remaining algae and prevent re-growth.
Friable areas of a lime-based stucco may be consolidated with repeated applications of limewater. To avoid a white
bloom it is most important not to let the limewater sit on the surface but to sponge it off with clean water.
Substituting modern materials for the original should always be avoided if at all possible. Wherever a high
proportion of original stucco has survived a hundred years or more in the British climate, bear in mind that the
original has been proved to work. This historic material, produced by craftsmen long ago, has its own intrinsic value
like any antique and, with careful consolidation, suitable repairs and thorough maintenance, it should be possible to
ensure that the original stucco work can still be seen by future generations.
Recommended Reading
John Ashurst, Mortars, Plasters and Renders in Conservation, Ecclesiastical Architects' and Surveyors'
Association, 1983
G Beard, Stucco and Decorative Plastering in Europe, Thames and Hudson, London, 1967
Anne Grimmer, 'The Preservation and Repair of Historic Stucco', Preservation Briefs, Technical Preservation
Services, National Park Service, Washington DC
Manfred Koller et al, Work in Austria on historic stucco - technique, colouring, preservation, Case Studies in the
Conservation of Stone and Wall Paintings, Preprints of the Contributions to the Bologna Congress, 21-26
September 1986
William Millar, Plastering: Plain and Decorative, (1897), Donhead, Shaftesbury 1998
Simpson and Brown (Corporate Author), Conservation of Plasterwork: a guide to the principles of conserving
and repairing historic plasterwork, Historic Scotland Technical Advice Note 2, Historic Scotland, Edinburgh,
1994
WD Stagg and RA Masters, Decorative Plasterwork: Its Repair and Restoration, Orion, Eastbourne, 1983
Notes
(1) Manfred Koller et al, 'Work in Austria on Historic Stucco - technique, colouring, preservation', Case Studies in the
Conservation of Stone and Wall Paintings, NS Bromelle and P Smith (eds), Preprints of the Contributions to the
Bologna Congress, 21-26 September 1986
(2) Norman Davey, A History of Building Materials, Phoenix House, London, 1961
(3) Anne Grimmer, 'The Preservation and Repair of Historic Stucco', Preservation Briefs, Technical Preservation
Services, National Park Service
Author
IAN CONSTANTINIDES is the Managing Director of St Blaise Ltd and has worked in the field for around 20 years.
LYNNE HUMPHRIES ACR MA (RCA/V&A) is a PACR accredited conservator of both architecture and sculpture.
She has worked and studied in museums and historic buildings for nearly 30 years and formerly managed
conservation for St Blaise Ltd. She has managed Humphries & Jones Ltd for the past 15 years working on historic
buildings and monuments. She is a consultant on building conservation and architectural works of art.
Further information
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Plasterwork, lime
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