N H PAT T E R N S

LUCY HIGH NECK

CROP TOP

ADVANCED
BEGINNER

HIGH NECK WITH TIE NECK

AND BACK FASTENINGS

UK SIZES
4-18

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 OVERVIEW A NOTE ON COPYRIGHT
ABOUT NOT FOR RESALE.

The Lucy top is designed for woven fabrics and features a high neck, princess seam
bodice and tie fastenings around the neck and back. The pattern and instruction files:

SEAM ALLOWANCES No part of this pattern or it’s instructions can be photocopied, re-produced,
re-sold, or altered to sell patterns of your own.
Seam allowances are included in this pattern, and are 1cm on all seams, unless oth-
erwise indicated in the pattern instructions. If you use the imperial system, 1cm is Any images or information within this pattern file and pattern instruction
slightly smaller than ½’’. I recommend adding a small piece of tape to your machine file cannot be shared under any circumstances.
to mark where 1cm is. You can then use this tape as a seam guide while sewing.
Front cover image is produced by photographer Codie Hobbs, and the
SUGGESTED FABRICS model in the photo is Ella.
This pattern has been designed for light-mid weight woven fabric with no little-no Items made using the pattern:
stretch. I have personally used a few different fabrics for this top ranging from
cotton poplin through to the more drapey viscose and both work well. The pattern
is designed for a light-mid weight for comfort and to allow movement around the - This pattern is intended for your personal use, and cannot be used to
body. create garments for sale on a LARGE commercial scale.

I would always recommend making up a sample in cheap fabric, similar to that of - Items made from NH PATTERNS may be produced on a SMALL scale
your final fabric before making your final garment. This will help you to understand from a home-based setting. Items made using this pattern CAN be used
the fit of the top and how it will sit on the body and allow you to make any alter- by small-scale businesses to make finished products from the patterns in
ations needed. order to sell on in their business.
Fabrics that works well are viscose, crepe, crepe de chine, silk, peachskin, cotton - Small-scale businesses are defined as a retail business selling finished
poplin etc. The fabric used in the main image on the front cover, is a peachskin
garments, with 2 or less employees/owners and in which manufacturing
fabric with a very slight stretch.
or production is done entirely in house. You cannot use these patterns to
outsource manufacturing of any kind and this pattern cannot be shared
SUPPLIES LIST outside of your business.
- Main fabric.
- Lining fabric. If you have any questions, please get in touch at: nhpatterns@outlook.com

Fabric requirements are detailed on pages 6 & 7.

2 3
 SIZING
Please see the sizing table to determine your size. The pattern is written in UK
sizing and measurements are provided in inches and cm.

Please use the measurements provided to determine your size and please remem-
ber – sewing patterns are created to a standard size and the measurements given
here are intended to be used as a guideline.

Every person and their body shape is different, and so you should work from the
size that is closest to your body shape and measurements, even though it may not
match exactly to your measurements.
I always recommend sewing a test garment in a similar weight to your final fabric,
and adjust the pattern accordingly If needed.

UK SIZE UK 4 UK 6 UK 8 UK 10 UK 12 UK 14 UK 16 UK 18
(US 0) (US 2) (US 4) (US 6) (US 8) (US (US (US 14)
10) 12)

BUST 79cm 81cm 84-86 89- 94- 99 - 104- 109-

cm 91.5 96.5 101.5 107 112
cm cm cm cm cm

31” 32” 33-34” 35-36” 37-38” 39-40” 41-42” 43-44”

Bust – To take your bust measurement, keep your measuring tape level and
measure around the fullest part of your bust.
WAIST 61cm 63.5 66 cm 71 cm 76 cm 81 cm 86.5 91.5
cm cm cm Waist – To take your waist measurement, wrap the tape measure around the
smallest part of your waist. If you’re unsure, your waist measurement should
be taken in between the bottom of your ribcage and the top of your hip bones.
24” 25” 26” 28” 30” 32” 34” 36”
Hip - You should measure around the fullest part of your bottom. “hip”
measurement is deceiving, as your hips and bottom are different things, but
HIP 84cm 86cm 89- 94 - 97 99 - 104 109- 114- hip measurement for NH patterns should always be taken around the widest
91.5 cm 101.5 - 107 112 117 point of the bottom.
cm cm cm cm cm

33” 34” 35-36” 37-38” 39-40” 41-42” 43-44” 45-46”

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 AMOUNT NEEDED FOR A FABRIC WIDTH OF 150cm/59”
PRINTING & PATTERN
All sizes (main 66cm / 0.75 All sizes (lining 52cm / 0.6 yards
ASSEMBLY fabric) yards fabric)

Please be careful to follow these printing instructions before printing your pattern, AMOUNT NEEDED FOR A FABRIC WIDTH OF 137cm/54”
to ensure that your pattern is not distorted and is to the correct proportions.

The pattern is set to print on a standard A4 home printer or US letter home printer Sizes UK 4-10 66cm / 0.75 Sizes UK 4-10 52cm / 0.6
depending on the file you chose to print. When printing your pattern, first only (Main fabric) yards (Lining fabric) yards
print the test square page of the pattern. Check that the scale for printing is set to
100% or “actual size” and do not scale, fit to page, or zoom on the pattern. The test Sizes UK 12-18 78cm / 0.85 Sizes UK 12-18 66cm / 0.75
square on the pattern will include instructions as to what the dimensions should (Main fabric) yards (Lining fabric) yards
be. (If you have printed large format at a printshop, please disregard this page of
the instructions.) AMOUNT NEEDED FOR A FABRIC WIDTH OF 115cm/45”
Once you have printed your pattern at the correct scale, you can then proceed to
assemble the pattern.
Sizes 4-10 78cm / 0.85 Sizes 4-10 66cm / 0.75
The pattern pages contain a black border around the edge of the pattern. Cut all (Main fabric) yards (Lining fabric) yards
the printed pages along the right hand side and bottom edge along the border and Sizes 12-18 ( See below
Sizes 12-18 See text below
tape together the pages, so that the numbered and lettered joining circles match. Lining fabric) (marked *)
(Main fabric) (marked *)
(It doesn’t matter if you cut the wrong side of the border, but if you only cut the
right edge and bottom edge on all pages, it will make it easier to tape together!)
The amounts needed given above are based on the assumption you are cutting
Following the sizing chart, choose your desired size, and cut this size following the your “back tie straps - lining” out of lining fabric. If you are cutting them out of your
line types printed on the pattern. main fabric as recommended, you will need 15cm/6” more of your main fabric than
If you want to make multiple sizes, I would recommend not cutting the pattern stated. The cutting plans across the next 2 pages are also based off this assump-
after taping and instead, trace off the size you wish to make onto tracing paper, tion.
keeping your printed pattern as a hard copy for future projects.
* (Sizes 12-18 with a 115cm/45” fabric) - Not recommended due to the back tie

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS piece being too long to fit on the fabric. If you are a confident sewer and have a
knowledge of pattern making, you may be able to split the back tie into multiple
pieces to make the pattern piece on the fabric.

When determining your fabric requirements, please remember that the require-
ments provided are only a guide. There are fabrics of all different widths supplied
across the world and how much fabric you will need will depend on the fabric
width and in some cases, the pattern of the fabric. (If you wish to pattern match!)
For the purpose of providing fabric requirements in this booklet, I have chosen a
narrow and a wide with fabric to give you an idea of both. The requirments stated
do not take into account pattern matching.

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 CUTTING PLAN CUTTING PLAN FOR
137cm/54” FABRIC
WIDTH - SIZES 4-10
Fold fabric in half with right
The cutting plans provided show a suggested cutting plan for the width fabrics side of the fabric facing
mentioned above in the fabric requirements section. inwards and matching your
selvedge edges. Your grain-
When cutting fabric, pattern pieces have been placed to use the least amount line marked on your pattern
of fabric, while keeping the fabric the right way around throughout. You may be should run parallel with the
tempted to turn pattern pieces upside down or put them cross-grain to use less selvedge of the fabric.
fabric, but please remember this doesn’t always work. Colours and fabric types can
look different when sewn against another piece of the same fabric that is the other Lining fabric should be placed
the same, excluding the neck
way around. This being said, my cutting plan is just a guide and you can cut your
ties.
pattern however you wish!
CUTTING PLAN FOR
Cutting plans are shown for the recommended fabric requirements that don’t re- 137cm/54” FABRIC
quire splitting the ties as explained on the previous page. The cutting plan for these WIDTH - SIZES 12-18
will be similar, but your extra split ties will need to be placed also. Fold fabric in half with right
side of the fabric facing
(These cutting plans are based on the assumption you are cutting your “Back tie inwards and matching your
selvedge edges. Your grain-
straps - lining” out of lining fabric. If you are cutting this piece from your main fab-
line marked on your pattern
ric (self) you will need to allow for this. ) should run parallel with the
selvedge of the fabric.

Lining fabric should be placed

CUTTING PLAN FOR the same, excluding the neck
ties.
150cm/59” FABRIC
WIDTH - ALL SIZES CUTTING PLAN FOR
115cm/45” FABRIC
Fold fabric in half with right WIDTH - SIZES 4-10
side of the fabric facing
inwards and matching your Fold fabric in half with right
selvedge edges. Your grain- side of the fabric facing
line marked on your pattern inwards and matching your
should run parallel with the selvedge edges. Your grain-
selvedge of the fabric. line marked on your pattern
should run parallel with the
Lining fabric should be placed selvedge of the fabric.
the same, excluding the neck
ties. Lining fabric should be placed
the same, excluding the neck
ties.

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 SEWING INSTRUCTIONS Step 2:

Next, take your back bodice (main fabric/self fabric) and sew your darts.

To do this you will need to match the notches of each outer corner of the dart,
Before you start sewing
by folding your fabric so that right sides are together. Then, sew in a straight line
from your notches to your dart point, making sure to backstitch at the beginning
Before you start sewing your final garment, I recommend sewing up a sample
and end to secure. (Sewing a dart is essentially sewing a triangle of fabric to create
beforehand in cheap fabric that is similar in weight and drape to your final fabric.
shape within the fabric.) TIP: For a neater dart, don’t backstitch at the point. In-
This allows you to test for sizing and make sure the final garment will be exactly
stead, tie off your threads to secure!
how you want it. You can try on your sample, and then make any alterations to the
pattern that you may need.

All pattern pieces include seam allowances. Seam allowances are all 1cm unless
otherwise indicated in the instructions. (Slightly smaller than 1/2”).

For the purpose of these instructions, the drawn images throughout will show
plain white as the right side of the fabric, and grey as the wrong side of the fabric.
In this tutorial I will refer to overlocking/serging the raw edges, if you don’t have an
overlocker, you can use whichever method of neatening you prefer. Zig zag stitch is
a good alternative!

Right side Wrong side

Step 3:

With right sides facing place your back

Step 1: bodice onto your front bodice, match-
ing your back side edge to your front
We’re first going to start with your main bodice side edge, (the side edge of your
fabric (self fabric) pieces. back bodice is the longer one)! Make
Take your “front bodice side panel” and sure your dart is facing the right way,
place it on to your “front bodice centre you want the poing of your dart towards
panel” with right sides together, match- the neckline of your top, and the thicker
ing up the joining edges and the notches. edge of the dart towards the waist edge.
Stitch this together using a 1cm seam Repeat for the other side.
allowance and then repeat for the other
side.

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 Step 4: Step 5:

Now take your “back tie strap - self”. With right sides facing sew your strap onto You should now have two bodices that look the same, one in your lining and one in
your back bodice, then repeat this for the other side. your self fabric. It’s now time to join them!

With your main fabric bodice in front of you and the right side of the fabric facing
you, place your lining bodice directly on top with right sides facing (making sure to
match up all seams).

Then, starting at one of your back straps, pin all the back along the top of the tie,
around the underarm and up to the neckline. Do this on both sides, ignoring the
bottom waist and neckline. Sew the entire way from the point of the tie, up to the
point of the neckline and repeat for the other side.

Press all your seams open and press your back bodice darts towards the side
seams. Then repeat steps 1-4 on your lining pieces.

Step 6:

Now we’re going to do some understitching. With understitching you are essen-
tially stitching your seam allowance onto your lining. This stitching will be visible
on inside of your garment, but won’t be visible from the outside. This will help the
lining to stay on the inside of the fabric and not roll to the right side when you’re
wearing it.
I pressed my dart the
wrong way, whoops! Seams pressed open To do this, open your top out so you are between the lining and main fabric.
When we do this, we are going to start from the centre back. We are not going to
understitch the tie.

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 Starting from your centre back, stitch your seam allowance to your lining parallel Step 7:
to the seam line. Stitch as close as you can to the seam line, no more than a few
mm and be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end. Continue all the way along We now need to sew up the bottom seam. So turn your top back to how it was in
the until you reach the point of the neckline. Then trim your seam allowance and step 5 where we joined the lining and main fabric. You want the right sides of your
repeat for the other side. fabric together again so that when you are looking at it, you are looking at the
wrong side of the fabric.

We are now going to sew the entire bottom (the waist) of the top. Start from your
back tie strap point and sew along the entire bottom edge to the other back strap
point. Sew this using a 1cm seam and then trim the seam slightly.

Start here where i’m

pointing

I personally stitch from the right side

of the fabric so I can see where i’m
stitching. You can stitch from the
wrong side if you prefer!

From this image, you can now see that the stitching is only on the lining and not on
the right side of the main fabric.
I don’t know why my finger is here.
Don’t mind me!

Step 8:

Turn your entire top through the open neckline and make sure to gently push out
the corners of your back straps.
Give everything a good press, then move onto the next page where we’ll finish it off
by adding the neck tie!

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 We’re now going to attach the neckline. This can be a little fiddly and take a little bit
of maneouvering...(it’s not that dramatic)!

Firstly, take your centre neck tie piece. Lay it out in front of you and then sew your
side pieces to either side of the centre panel with right sides facing. This will create
one long neck tie. Repeat this for the other tie so that you have two. Press all your
seams open.

Step 10:

Next, (with the right side of your top facing you) place your other neck strap on
top of the first, sandwiching your top in between both strap pieces. Make sure to
match up your centre points and in all around the neckline, making sure that all
layers are joined. You can then continue to pin the rest of the strap together.

Step 9:

Now, fold your straps in half and mark the centre point. I marked mine with a pin
but you can do a little notch if you prefer. Then fold your top in half and find the
centre point of your neckline. Mark this too.

We are now going to sandwich the neckline of the top between the two neck tie
pieces. Start by placing your first neck tie out in front of you with the right side Step 11:
facing you. Then place the lining side of your top onto this, matching up the
notches. (The raw edge of your strap should align with the raw edge of your top). We are now going to sew the top of the strap. Starting at one end of the strap, sew
the entire length, being sure to catch all layers of the top in between the two straps
Now begin to pin this in place the entire way around the neckine. (Photos on next when sewing.
page)
Once you’ve sewn this edge and checked that the neckline is completely enclosed,
you can move onto sewing the rest of the strap. Sew both short edges and then
along the bottom, as far as you can until you reach the top and can’t go any further.
Be sure not to catch the top within the seam when sewing the bottom edge of the
strap.

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 Step 12:

Now the strap is sewn up you can turn it through the right way. (Make sure to gen-
tly push out your corners so you have a nice sharp corner)!Give your strap a press
and make sure to press the seam allowance of the open portion towards the inside
of the strap. Once you have pressed it in place, pin it to secure.

Now we are going to topstitch around the entire strap. This is mostly for aesthetic
reasons, but while we topstitch we will also be closing up that hole that was left.
Starting at one corner, stitch around the entire strap, close to the edge.

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you make.

That’s it! You’re done! Make sure to use Hashtag #nhlucy so we can easily find you!

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