VIKISEWS

DRESS
ALEXIA

SIZES
34-52

DIFFICULTY

INTERMEDIATE
 FROM THE FOUNDER
OF THE #VIKISEWS BRAND

Back in 2016, when I was working on my first

sewing instructions, I was trying to write them
in such a way that even a complete beginner would
be able to understand and create their first
garment. These instructions laid the foundation
of the Vikisews brand, its vision and mission. I wanted
to create modern patterns with the most detailed
and clear instructions.

With each new collection, we’re constantly

improving our instructions: adding more details,
removing redundancies. Before they reach you, our
drafters, correctors, and editors spend weeks
working on every word and every photograph. If
you put a few instructions together, you’ll get a
sewing manual that will assist you in sewing all
kinds of garments of any difficulty level.

And I’ll be very happy if these instructions help

you to grow a small hobby into a lifelong passion.
Enjoy the process. Create your ideal and effective
wardrobe. Wear your garments with pride and
for years to come.

If you have any questions, do write to us at

info@vikisews.com. We’ll always help you.

02
 ALEXIA PATTERN DESCRIPTION
Alexia is a close fitting dress with an accentuated waist. It features a waist
seam and separate yokes on the top front with gathering on the bottom and an
elasticated channel on top. The waist darts have been transferred into princess
seams. The back also features vertical princess seams. Alexia fastens with buttons
and buttonholes on the center front plackets. The short voluminous sleeves are
half raglan and feature elasticated channels on the top and bottom to mirror the
yokes. The top edge of the yokes as well as the top and bottom edges of the
sleeves are finished with rolled hems. The bottom of the skirt is slightly flared,
the front and back necklines are deep and wide. Alexia is above-knee length.

03
 FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION!

Patterns of Vikisews are allowed:

• for personal use. It is prohibited to share VikiSews patterns and sewing
instructions with third parties, as well as to publish patterns and instructions
online for public access. According to part 1 of clause 1252 and clause 1301
of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation, failure to comply with the mentioned
rules constitutes a breach of the legislation in force in the field of copyright
and entails liability of the violator. Illegal use or distribution will be prosecuted
in accordance with legislation.

• for commercial use, to sew custom-made garments and/or create fashion

collections, on the condition that the patterns are solely used in a manufacturing
setting and are not further shared with individual parties.

04
TOTAL WEARING EASE
Bust ease, cm Waistline ease, Hipline ease, cm Upper arm ease, cm
cm

4.1-4.7 4.1-4.2 7.3-7.8 30.8-31.8

GARMENT LENGTH, SLEEVE LENGTH

Height, cm Garment length at the Sleeve length including
back from waist down, cm part of shoulder, cm

1 (154-160) 42.2 19.1-23.8

2 (162-168) 46.2 20.1-23.9
3 (170-176) 50.2 21.1-24.3
4 (178-184) 54.2 21.6-25.0

SUGGESTED FABRIC
To sew this dress, choose woven fabrics with the following properties:
• Lightweight, with good drape, breathable, soft, non-stretch or with very little stretch,
opaque
• The fiber content can include natural fibers (silk, cotton), artificial (viscose), blends (cotton + viscose,
etc)
• The following fabrics are recommended: viscose, lightweight denim, challis, shirting, chintz, artificial silk,
natural silk
Attention! We do not recommend stretchy knit materials and lightweight sheer fabrics (chiffon, organza,
stretch lace).

The dress on the photo is made with viscose fabric. This fabric is medium weight, soft, has good drape and
very little stretch. The fiber content is of viscose.

05
FABRIC AND NOTIONS
REQUIREMENTS
IMPORTANT! When purchasing fabric, please account for
shrinkage and buy 5% more than required.
Main fabric, 120cm wide, with a directional
print, in meters

Height, cm Size Size Size Size Size Size Size Size Size Size
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

1 (154-160) 1.35 1.35 1.35 1.45 1.45 1.45 1.5 1.6 1.65 1.65
2 (162-168) 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.55 1.65 1.7 1.7
3 (170-176) 1.45 1.45 1.45 1.55 1.55 1.55 1.6 1.7 1.8 1.8
4 (178-184) 1.55 1.55 1.55 1.65 1.65 1.65 1.7 1.8 1.85 1.85

Main fabric, 140cm wide, with a directional print, in meters

Height, cm Size Size Size Size Size Size Size Size Size Size
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

1 (154-160) 1 1.05 1.1 1.1 1.3 1.35 1.35 1.4 1.5 1.5
2 (162-168) 1.1 1.1 1.15 1.15 1.35 1.4 1.4 1.45 1.55 1.55
3 (170-176) 1.15 1.15 1.2 1.2 1.45 1.45 1.45 1.5 1.65 1.65
4 (178-184) 1.2 1.2 1.25 1.25 1.5 1.55 1.55 1.6 1.7 1.7

2. 0.5-1cm wide elastic

Height, cm Size Size Size Size Size Size Size Size Size Size
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

1 (154-160) 120 125 130 135 140 150 150 155 160 165
2 (162-168) 120 130 130 140 140 150 150 155 160 165
3 (170-176) 120 130 135 140 140 150 155 155 160 165
4 (178-184) 125 135 135 140 145 150 155 160 165 165

06
3. Lightweight fusible woven or knit interfacing, 140cm wide

Height, cm Size Size Size Size Size Size Size Size Size Size
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

1 (154-160) 0.65 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7
2 (162-168) 0.7 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75
3 (170-176) 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8
4 (178-184) 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.85 0.85 0.85 0.85 0.85 0.85 0.85

4. 16 buttons 0.8-1cm in diameter

5. Matching thread, 5 spools (1 spool for the sewing machine and 4 spools for the overlocker)

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

• Sewing machine for construction
• Overlocker for finishing raw edges. This may be replaced with a stretch overlock
stitch or a zigzag stitch on the sewing machine (overlock or zigzag stitch width 2-3mm,
stitch length 2.5mm)
• Buttonhole foot for your sewing machine
• Bodkin for threading elastic through a channel (may be replaced with a safety pin)

07
PATTERN PIECES LIST
1. From main fabric:
• Front yoke – cut 2
• Center front bodice - cut 2
• Side front bodice - cut 2
• Front skirt - cut 2
• Centre back bodice - cut 1 on fold
• Side back bodice - cut 2
• Back skirt - cut 1 on fold
• Sleeve - cut 2 IMPORTANT! Don’t forget to transfer all pattern markings
• Back facing - cut 1 on fold and notches onto the fabric.
• Placket - cut 2
• Front bodice channel - cut 2
• Sleeve cap channel - cut 2
• Sleeve hem channel - cut 2

2. From interfacing:
• Placket - cut 2
• Back facing - cut 1 on fold

SEAM ALLOWANCES
All pattern pieces include 1cm seam allowances; the garment hem allowance is 2cm.
Take this into account when laying out pattern pieces on the fabric.

08
CUTTING LAYOUT

Main fabric, 120cm wide, with one fold, for sizes 34-38
in all heights, with a directional print

Fold

Selvedge

Attention! The sleeves and the sleeve hem channels are cut in a single
layer out of the leftover material, once all other pieces are cut out.

Main fabric, 120cm wide, with one fold, for sizes 40-48
in all heights, with a directional print

Fold

Selvedge

Attention! The sleeves, the sleeve cap channels, the sleeve hem
channels, and the front bodice channel are cut in a single layer out of
the leftover material, once all other pieces are cut out.

09
 Main fabric, 120cm wide, with one fold, for sizes 50-52
in all heights, with a directional print

Fold

Selvedge

Attention! The sleeves, the sleeve cap channels, and the sleeve hem
channels are cut in a single layer out of the leftover material, once all
other pieces are cut out.

Main fabric, 140cm wide, with one fold, for sizes 34-36
in all heights, with a directional print

Fold

Selvedge

Attention! The sleeve cap channels are cut in a single layer out of the
leftover material, once all other pieces are cut out.

10
Main fabric, 140cm wide, with one fold, for sizes 38-40 in all heights,
with a directional print

Fold

Selvedge

Attention! The sleeve cap channels are cut in a single layer out of the
leftover material, once all other pieces are cut out.

Main fabric, 140cm wide, with one fold, for sizes 42-48
in all heights, with a directional print

Fold

Selvedge

Attention! The sleeve hem channels are cut in a single layer

out of the leftover material, once all other pieces are cut out.

11
 Main fabric, 140cm wide, with one fold, for sizes 50-52
in all heights, with a directional print

Fold

Selvedge

Attention! Attention! The sleeves, the sleeve cap channels, and

the sleeve hem channels are cut in a single layer out of the
leftover material, once all other pieces are cut out.

Interfacing, 140cm wide, with one fold, for all sizes and heights

Fold

Selvedge

READY? LET’S GET SEWING!

12
 FIRST GARMENT FITTING

We recommend doing a first fitting for any garment.

For what purpose? The first fitting is done with the goal of checking the balance of the garment (this
is how a garment hangs on the body; the vertical seams should be straight and perpendicular to the
floor, and the horizontal seams should be straight and parallel to the floor), correction of volumes,
correction of garment and sleeve length, checking of the neckline depth and shape, the size and
placement of buttons.

To ensure a well-fitting garment, it’s important to properly assemble it for the first fitting, so pay attention
to the notches during construction. When you pin pieces together, pin first at the notches, then at the
ends and between the notches, making sure the fabric is laying smoothly.

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 To baste the garment, use either a long straight machine stitch (stitch length 4-5mm) or baste by
hand (stitch length approximately 1cm). For hand basting, it’s important to have the pieces lay on a
straight flat surface (table) without any parts hanging off the surface.

During basting, if it so happens that one piece is longer than the other, don’t rush to true them
by cutting the excess or stretching the shorter piece. First make sure that the notches are properly
matched, lay the pieces on a flat surface and try to re-baste the pieces together. If the pieces still
don’t match in length, for example if one stretched or if there was a mistake during cutting, then the
truing can be done after the first fitting, during construction of the garment. After assembly, seams
should be lightly pressed flat, then pressed to one side or pressed open.

What to look for during fitting?

The left and right sides of the garment should look the same.
Verify the balance of the garment – the side seams must be vertical.
The front hem edges shouldn’t overlap or spread apart.
The garment hem is straight and should be parallel to the floor.
Evaluate the side view of the front and back of the garment (look at yourself sideways in the mirror).
The front and back should not sag or ride up. There shouldn’t be any horizontal wrinkles across
the back, nor any tension across the shoulder blades and shoulders.
Evaluate the side seams from the front or back. The sides should not sag or ride up.
Verify the garment length.
Check for fit issues associated with individual features of the body (for example, an asymmetrical
figure with shoulder at different levels, etc.)
There shouldn’t be any tension nor diagonal wrinkles or draglines at the location of future buttons.
Verify garment volume, there should be enough ease and it should feel comfortable.
After the fitting, mark changes symmetrically to both sides of the garment; if needed, baste once
more and try on again.

14
 Fully interface the following pieces:
• Placket - cut 2
• Back facing - cut 1 on fold

To interface, put the gluey side of the interfacing (the side that feels rough to the touch) on top of
the wrong side of the fabric piece (or a section thereof) and press with the iron. Do not iron the piece,
but instead press it section by section, holding it down with the iron a few seconds until that section
is adhered and then pressing down the next section. You may use a cotton pressing cloth to protect
your iron sole. Once the interfacing process complete, leave the piece on a hard flat surface for 15
minutes for it to cool down.

Mark the darts on the wrong side of the front and back skirt pieces (transfer from pattern pieces).

15
 Pin and baste the darts along the markings on the front and back skirt pieces. Stitch on the machine
starting at the wide end and going towards the tip. Backstitch at the beginning of the stitching line
and leave long thread tails at the end (5-7cm).

Using a hand sewing needle, hide the tails within the dart. Cut off excess thread.

16
 Press the darts flat, then press the front skirt darts toward the center front and the back skirt darts
towards the center back. Use a tailor’s ham to press out excess fabric at the dart tips.

Place the center front bodice and the side front bodice pieces right sides together. Align the princess
seam edges, pin, and baste. Stitch the princess seams on the sewing machine. Backstitch at the beginning
and end. Overlock the seam allowances with the side front pieces facing up.

17
Press the seams flat, then press the seam allowances towards the center front bodice.

Place the center back bodice and the side back

bodice pieces right sides together. Align the princess
seam edges, match notches, pin, and baste. Stitch
the pieces on the sewing machine. Backstitch at
the beginning and end. Press the seams flat.

Overlock the seam allowances with the side back

pieces facing up. Press the seam allowances towards
the center back.

18
 Sew two rows of gathering stitches along the bottom
of the front yokes.

One stitching line should be at 4mm from the

edge and the second, at 9mm. Start stitching 1cm
away from the centre front edge and stop at the
notch which indicates the end of the gathering.
Leave long thread tails at the beginning and end
for gathering.

Pull on the bobbin threads to gather the yokes

until they equal the length of the top edge on the
combined center front and side front pieces. Ensure
the gathering is even.

19
 Place the front yoke bottom edge right sides
together with the top edge of the combined front
princess seamed piece. Align the edges, match
notches, pin, and baste.

Stitch the pieces on the sewing machine. Press the

seam flat. Overlock the seam allowances with the
yoke facing up.
Press the finished seam, then press the seam
allowances down towards the front bodice pieces.

20
 Place the back skirt and the combined back bodice
pieces right sides together, align the waistline edges,
match notches and center points, as well as princess
seams with darts. Pin and baste.

Stitch the back pieces on the machine. Backstitch

at the beginning and end. Finish the seam allowances
on the overlocker with the back skirt facing up. Press
the seam flat.

Press the seam allowances up towards the bodice.

21
 Place the front skirt pieces right sides together
with the combined front bodice pieces. Align the
waistline edges, match the princess seams with the
darts. Pin and baste.

Stitch the pieces on the machine. Backstitch at the

beginning and end. Finish the seam allowances on
the overlocker with the front skirt facing up. Press
the seam flat, then press the seam allowances up.

Finish the front’s top edge with a rolled hem on

the overlocker (if you don’t have an overlocker, you
can finish it with a pin hem or a zigzag stitch on
the sewing machine).

22
 Mark the channel stitching line on the wrong side
of the front yokes (transfer from pattern pieces).

On the front bodice channel piece, fold and press

one long edge to the wrong side by 1cm.

23
 Place the front bodice channel piece right side to
the wrong side of the yoke so that the crease is on
top of the marked stitching line. Pin and baste.

Stitch the channel on the machine. Backstitch at

the beginning and end.

24
 Press the stitching, then press the channel up
towards the top edge of the yoke. If you marked
the stitching line with basting stitches, then remove
them now. Cut the hand stitches in a few spots prior
to pulling the thread out, in order to prevent damaging
the fabric and the stitching line.

Trim the channel seam allowance down to 5mm.

Fold the channel’s raw edge to the wrong side in

such a way that the finished channel width is 1cm.
Pin the folded edge to the yoke, baste, and stitch
on the machine. Backstitch at the beginning and
end. Press the channel.

25
 Trim off the channel corners beyond the yoke
edges.

Prepare two cuts of elastic, the length is indicated

on the pattern piece. Thread elastic through the
channels using a bodkin or a safety pin.

Secure elastic ends in the channels with a double

line of stitching on the machine.

26
 Overlock the back facing’s free edge with the right
side facing up. Press.

Place the back facing’s raw edge right sides together

with the top edge of the combined back bodice
piece. Align the edges and match the facing’s notches
with the princess seams. Pin and baste. Stitch the
facing on the sewing machine. Backstitch at the
beginning and end. Press the seam flat.

Understitch the seam allowances to the facing,

stitching on the right side at 1-2mm from the seam.

27
 Trim the seam allowances down to 5mm.

Turn the facing to the wrong side of the garment

and press while forming a 1mm roll. Secure the
overlocked facing edge to the princess seam allowances
with a few loose hand stitches.

Place the front and back pieces right sides together.

Align the sides, match all notches as well as the
front and back waist seams. Pin, baste, and stitch
the side seams. Backstitch at the beginning and end.
Press the seams flat.

28
 Overlock the seam allowances with the front pieces
facing up. Press the seam allowances flat, then press
them towards the back.

Mark the hemline 2cm from the bottom edge.

29
 Press the hem to the wrong side by 2cm.

Fold the raw edge to the inside by 1cm. Press.

Stitch the hem on the machine at 1mm from the

top folded edge.

30
 Fold the placket pieces in half along the long edges,
wrong sides together, and press.

Place the placket right sides together with the

center front edge. Pin and baste.
The placket should extend by 1cm on the top and
bottom beyond the front edges

Stitch the placket to the fronts on the machine.

Trim off the corners of the intersecting seam allowances
in order to reduce bulk (the yoke and waist seams).

31
 Press the seam flat, then press the seam allowances
towards the placket.

Fold and press the placket’s raw edge to the wrong

side by 8mm.

Fold the placket in half right sides together. Align

the short edges in such a way that the free folded
edge covers the stitching line by 1-2mm.
Pin, baste, and stitch the placket along the short
edges on the top and bottom. Press the seams flat.

32
Trim the seam allowances down to 5mm.

33
 Turn the placket right side out and push out the corners. Place the inner long edge of the placket
in such a way that it covers the seam by 1-2mm and hand baste in place.

Secure the placket by stitching-in-the-ditch from the right side on the machine. Remove the basting
stitches. Press the finished placket.

34
 On the wrong side of the sleeves, mark the channel
stitching line along the cap (using chalk or with hand
stitches). You may use the pattern piece as a template.

Finish the sleeve cap edge with a rolled hem on

the overlocker (if you don’t have an overlocker, you
can finish it with a pin hem or a zigzag stitch on
the sewing machine).
The stitching should go from circle to circle indicated
on the pattern piece, extending by 1cm beyond
them. Press the finished edge.

35
 Fold and press the sleeve cap channel piece by
1cm to the wrong side on both short ends and one
long edge.

Place the channel right side to the wrong side of

the sleeve, with the crease on top of the marked
stitching line. Pin, baste, and stitch on the machine.
Press.

Trim the channel’s seam allowance down to 5mm.

36
 Press the channel up towards the sleeve cap. Fold
and press the channel’s raw edge to the wrong side
in such a way that the finished channel width is
1cm.
Pin the folded edge and baste.

Stitch the channel on the sewing machine at 1-2mm

from the fold. Press the finished channel.

37
 Mark the channel stitching line along the sleeve’s
hem.

Fold each sleeve right sides together and align the

underarm edges.
Pin, baste, and stitch on the machine. Backstitch
at the beginning and end.

Overlock the seam allowances. Press the seams

flat, then press the seam allowances towards the
front.

38
 Finish the sleeve’s bottom edge with a rolled hem
on the overlocker (if you don’t have an overlocker,
you can finish it with a pin hem or a zigzag stitch
on the sewing machine).
Press the finished edge.

Fold and press the sleeve hem channel’s both short

ends and one long edge to the wrong side by 1cm.

39
 Place the channel right side to the sleeve’s wrong
side with the crease on top of the marked stitching
line and with the folded short ends against the seam.
Pin, baste, and stitch the channel. Backstitch at the
beginning and end.

Trim the channel’s seam allowance down to 5mm.

Press.

Press the channel down towards the sleeve hem.

Fold and press the channel’s raw edge in such a
way that the channel’s finished width is 1cm. The
folded short ends of the channel should butt against
each other for an easier elastic insertion. Pin and
baste the channel’s second edge.

40
 Stitch the channel on the sewing machine at 1-2mm
from the folded edge. Press the finished channel.

Prepare cuts of elastic for the sleeves (lengths are

indicated on the pattern piece). Insert elastic into
the sleeve cap channel with the help of a bodkin or
a safety pin.

41
 Align elastic ends with the channel’s folded ends
and secure them with double stitching lines on both
sides.

Insert the appropriate elastic into the sleeve hem’s

channel.

Overlap elastic ends by 1cm and stitch them

together with a double stitching line.
Slightly stretch the channel to distribute the elastic
evenly and hide the stitched ends inside.

42
 Pin and baste the sleeve into the armscye, matching
the side seam with the underarm seam, the finished
sleeve cap edges with the finished front yoke edge
and the faced back edge.

43
 Second fitting
What for? To verify the fit of the sleeve, the sleeve’s width and volume, placement of buttons and
buttonholes.
How? We recommend doing this second fitting prior to permanently setting in the sleeves.
What are we looking for? We are checking the fit of the sleeve; it must lie smoothly, without any
wrinkles or draglines. It should have enough volume. We’re also checking the elastic length.

Set the sleeves in the armscye by stitching two

rows on the sewing machine, one on top of the
other. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Finish the seam allowances on the overlocker with the bodice facing up. Leave 3cm long tails on
both ends and thread them through the stitching to secure.

44
 Press the seam flat, then press the seam allowances
towards the sleeve.

Secure the armscye seam allowances to the sleeve

by stitching back and forth 3-5 stitches at 1-2mm
from the seam.

45
 Mark the buttonholes placement on the right placket
using the placket pattern piece.

Stitch the buttonholes on the markings using a

buttonhole foot on your machine.

Cut the buttonholes open. If using a seam ripper

to do this, insert pins at both ends of the buttonhole
in order to prevent cutting through the stitches.

46
 Mark the buttons placement on the left placket.
Sew on the buttons. Leave a bit of space between
the button and the fabric, then form a thread shank
and wrap the thread around it a few times; finish
by securing with a knot. This way the buttons will
be easier to fasten and they’ll look better on the
placket when closed.

Give the garment a final press.

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SEW TOGETHER
WITH #VIKISEWS!
CREATE YOUR IDEAL
WARDROBE!

#vikisews_alexia