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 D y e i n g • F i n i s h i n g • P r i n t i n g • C o a t i n g
Issue 8 2013

International
Dyer
Est. 1881 www.internationaldyer.com

FC - ID Front Cover 2.indd 1 14/11/2013 10:14

 a hundred different shades

BLANCOLUX
®

beyond any other white

ERCA.indd 1 29/11/2013 11:03

 International
Contents

Dyer
COVER ADVERTISMENT
BEZEMA AG, based in Montlingen / Switzerland,
is the dyes competence centre of the CHT
| BEZEMA group. Here the focus is on the
development, production and sale of a complete
range of textile dyes.
We consider it to be one of our main
commitments to support our partners with our
in-depth, extensive know-how in the field of new
developments and in introducing economically
and ecologically optimised processes. Our
customers profit from our fast laboratory service,
comprehensive consultation and training services
Est. 1881 www.internationaldyer.com as well as our versatile logistics.

BEZEMA AG
SWITZERLAND
Kriessernstrasse 20
CH-9462 Montlingen
Tel +41 71 763 88 11
Fax +41 71 763 88 88
bezema@bezema.com
www.bezema.com

PAGE 20 PAGE 28 PAGE 47

Technical Textiles Textiles & Sustainability Machinery & Services

2. COMMENT 22. TECHNICAL BRIEFING: FLAME

Changing Picture of FR Regulation RETARDANTS
Flame Retardancy: Regulatory Developments and
4. INDUSTRY NEWS Environmental Issues

8. LOCAL COLOUR 28. TEXTILES & SUSTAINABILITY

Georgia on the March
31. RESEARCH: VAT DYEING
9. DYES & CHEMICALS NEWS Partial Replacement of Sodium Hydrosulphite in Vat Dyeing

14. TECHNICAL BRIEFING: CONTROL 35. RESEARCH: CREASE RESISTANCE

Guiding and Controlling for High Quality and Non-Formaldehyde Crease Resistance Finishing on Tencel
Performance with Poly Maleic Acid

17. TECHNICAL BRIEFING: SILK 40. RESEARCH: WASTEWATER

GM Puts Colour into the Lives of Silkworms Influence of Different Metal Electrodes on Electrocoagulation
Process for Treatment of Disperse and Reactive Dye
18. ANALYSIS: DYE MARKET Wastewater
China’s Pollution Controls Are Putting a Squeeze on
Dyestuff Supplies 45. MACHINERY & SERVICES
20. TECHNICAL TEXTILES 49. CALENDAR OF EVENTS

P 1 Contents.indd 2 26/11/2013 14:30

 International

Dyer
Editor:
JOHN SCRIMSHAW
Comment

Changing Picture of
jscrimshaw@wtin.com
Technical Editor:
DR IAN HOLME
iholme@wtin.com

FR Regulation
Assistant Editor:
DAVID STEVENSON
dstevenson@wtin.com
North America Correspondent:
JOHN MCCURRY
Editorial Design:
JAY FAULKNER Textile flame retardancy, in all its aspects, remains an area of massive flux.
Display & Classified Advertising Sales: International Dyer has reported extensively on the regulatory moves surrounding
JAMES WILSON
the industry’s favourite flame retardant, DecaBDE, and about the research to
jwilson@wtin.com
Subscriptions:
find alternatives that are technically and environmentally acceptable as well as
MAGGIE SADOWSKA economically viable.
msadowska@wtin.com
Managing Director: But the search for such solutions is taking place against a background where
MARK JARVIS
the standards themselves are shifting. In the UK – the natural ‘home’ of flame-
International Dyer is published by retardancy standards – the Furniture Flammability Regulations (FFRs) are under
World Textile Information Network
West One, 114 Wellington Street, review and a new Standard will probably not be in place for at least 18 months.
Leeds, LS1 1BA The aim of the review is to maintain current safety levels, while achieving
England
Tel: +44 (0)113 388 4882
simplification, reducing the levels of flame-retardant chemicals in furniture – and,
e-mail: info@wtin.com of course, saving money (page 22).
Website: www.internationaldyer.com
Printed in Singapore by
KHL Printing Co. Pte Ltd At the same time the core ‘match test’ is itself being revised, with the likely
substitution of combustion modified foam for the current polyurethane foam.
Detailed proposals have been circulated.
Advertisement Sales Offices

MAIN OFFICE: James Wilson There are also indications that the European Union may pick up on this process
World Textile information Network, West One,
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and develop its own community-wide standards, in which instance the UK
Tel: +44 (0)113 388 4882 standard would be rendered redundant. The existing pattern of standards in this
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area across the EU could be characterised as patchy.
Switzerland: Frank Stoll / Martina Kohler
IFF Media
Emmersbergstrasse 1 - 8200
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Tel: + 41 526330888 Fax: + 41 526330899
Email: iff@iff-media.ch indicate that the FR picture will remain unstable for years to come, and anyone
manufacturing or marketing upholstered furniture, or furnishing textiles, should be
JAPAN: Katsuhiro Ishii,
Ace Media Services Inc. 12-6, 4 chome, Nishiiko taking a close interest.
Adachi-ku, Tokyo 121-0824, Japan
Tel:0081 3 5691 3335 Fax: 0081 3 5691 3336
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ISSN 0020-658X

INTERNATIONAL DYER

P 2 Comment.indd 2 22/11/2013 16:40

 BASF_Consumer Safety_216*303.pdf 1 07/03/2012 16:45

CM

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CMY

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 Industry News

Farewell to Stork, as
SPGPrints Completes
Rebranding
By John Scrimshaw
THE STORK BRAND is to disappear from textile In textiles, SPGPrints claims a market-
printing, as SPGPrints completes a process of leading position in rotary printing and was
transition that began six years ago. the inventor, in 1986, of the first digital-
SPGPrints – whose inks are among the textile machine. But its activities are wider
market leaders in digital textile printing and than that. Its Graphics Printing segment
which also has a deep history in digital and supplies both digital and rotary label-printing
rotary fabric-printing machinery – first began machinery, as well as equipment for security
its rebranding after the Stork group sold the (banknote) printing, wallpaper printing and winning business model for our customers who
majority of its subsidiary to a venture-capital printed electronics. It also has a Precision Metal produce their products with our printers, inks
company in 2007. segment, manufacturing nozzle plates for inkjet and software.”
And the transfer of the remaining share from printing heads. He said he would expand on the company’s
Stork, in March this year, has been the occasion Mr Notermans said customers will not vision for the future of digital-textile printing
to draw a final line under the Stork connection. initially notice anything new in the rebranding – using dedicated textile print heads and
Jos Notermans, SPGPrints’ commercial and the current marketing campaign is based single-pass technology for quality and reliability,
manager for digital textiles, said: “With around the theme: ‘new name, same DNA’. with the right printing capacity per year – during
the withdrawal from Stork as a minority As for the company’s plans in the textile the upcoming IMI European Ink Jet Conference
shareholder, we came to the conclusion that we market, he said: “We have invested in digital in Lisbon (November 13-15).
had to rebrand our company, since we are now technology for 27 years, with a very clear “We also foresee the home-furnishing
fully independent. vision of what is the ultimate digital-textile market growing in digital in the upcoming
“Now the time has come for a smooth and printing solution for the customers. We started years, and therefore we have chosen corporate
final transition.” single-pass technology developments in 2001, sponsorship of the first digital textile conference
The company introduced a new SPGPrints and with the progress in performance, reliability for the home-furnishing market, during
logo in 2008, with the aim even then of and costs we are introducing single-pass Heimtextil in Frankfurt in Germany” added Mr
gradually moving toward the same company technology in the markets where we are Notermans. “There, we will elaborate further on
name. In fact, the Stork Prints brand has not active, with the introduction of the DSi for label our developments, supported by a stand in the
been seen on most of the company’s products printing in 2010. CADCAM/inkjet hall of the Heimtextil show.”
or marketing materials since that time – “We have been producing digital-textile inks The ‘European Digital Textile Conference
although it’s a change that many customers for 23 years now, bringing them to a quality – Digital Printing for Homes and Interiors’ is
have failed to notice, and the former name is level that is unrivalled in the market. All our scheduled for January 9-10, 2014.
still widely used. developments are geared towards one goal: a www.digitaltextileconference.com

DyStar Acquires Lenmar

DYSTAR HAS ACQUIRED However, a statement said their business over the Southeast of the United
Lenmar Chemical Corporation, the acquisition combines the last few years,” said Ron States, but DyStar will expand
of Dalton, Georgia, USA – a strengths of DyStar North Pedemonte, president of Lenmar’s products and
company with over 30 years America and Lenmar, by DyStar Americas. “The technology to a national and
experience in producing leveraging DyStar’s strong acquisition of Lenmar global level.
manufactured speciality regional network in the and their manufacturing The combined business
chemical products to service Americas and global reach and capabilities accelerates of DyStar LP and Lenmar
the textile and carpet, fibre Lenmar’s diversified product our strategy to strengthen will operate chemical
processing, laminate floor, portfolio and technical and expand our textile and manufacturing and distribution
water treatment, oil and expertise. non-textile chemical business sites in Reidsville, NC, and
agriculture industries. “Lenmar’s management in the Americas.” Dalton, Georgia, with more
Details of the transaction has been very successful in Lenmar’s customer base than 50,000 tonnes of annual
remain undisclosed. transforming and diversifying is predominately in the capacity available.

4 INTERNATIONAL DYER

P 4-6 News.indd 4 19/11/2013 09:27

 BASF Cuts Jobs as Huntsman
Opens
Pigment Plants Close Technology
AROUND 650 JOBS will be cut Scotland and the restructuring The planned investments in the
across BASF as the company of the Huningue plant in France. production network will further Centre
continues to implement a In addition, BASF is examining strengthen the production
Huntsman Corporation has
series of measures within strategic options for the site in footprint in Asia Pacific, the
opened a new Asia Pacific
its Performance Products Maastricht, the Netherlands. fastest-growing market. This Technology Centre (ATC)
segment to strengthen its “The measures we are also includes the start-up in Shanghai’s Minhang
competitiveness. undertaking will make us and expansion of a plant for Economic & Technological
As part of its long-term pigment more responsive to market high-performance pigments Development Zone.
strategy, BASF says it will and customer needs. We also at BASF’s wholly-owned The event was hosted by
Huntsman’s founder and
enhance customer focus and continue to significantly invest production site in Nanjing,
chairman, Jon M. Huntsman,
continue to design differentiated in innovation as the leading China, and the expansion of
and its CEO Asia Pacific,
products in high-value pigment supplier,” said Dr the BASF pigments plant in Anthony P. Hankins.
applications, and optimise the Markus Kramer, president of the Ulsan, Korea. The new $40 million
global production network. Dispersions & Pigments division. “The future global production facility forms an integrated
Approximately 650 positions BASF will invest €250 million network will enable us to technology and innovation
will be reduced by 2017. The in the next four years in its reliably and efficiently supply campus together with
major measures include the production network as well as our partners from a competitive the existing technology
centre that was opened in
closure of the Paisley plant in in research and development. base,” added Kramer.
September 2008.
The state-of-the-art facility

CRAiLAR Closes Wet

includes machine halls,
laboratories and offices and
can accommodate up to

Processing Acquisition
400 technical experts and
will complement existing
technology centres in The
Woodlands, USA, and
CRAILAR TECHNOLOGIES, WHICH produces and South Carolina until it exceeds the capacity of its Brussels, Belgium, as well as
markets flax fibre, has finalised the purchase of a European unit or a strategic partner desires a dedi- smaller regional centres.
European-based fibre-processing company with cated space and supports the $14 million build-out Mr Hankins said: “The Asia
more than 40 years of experience in the industry. in South Carolina. Pacific ATC investment
The acquisition, announced in early-September, During the third quarter of 2013, however, the reflects Huntsman’s
allows the company complete operational control of flax-fibre producer reported sales of $0.02 million long-term commitment to
the processing of its proprietary CRAiLAR Flax fibre. and a net loss of $5.7 million. This includes a non- grow in partnership with
our customers in this key
The facility is fully operational and will have the cash $2.6 million charge associated with transition-
market. We now have a
capacity to produce in excess of 250,000 pounds ing production to Europe and the replacement of
world-class technology
of Flax fibre per week, with room to expand to one some equipment at its South Carolina facility. This
facility in Shanghai,
million pounds per week. However, the name and compares with no sales and a net loss of $2 million
employing talented local
location of the acquired wet processing facility for Q3 2012.
scientists, developing fit-for-
remain undisclosed. Despite this, Ken Barker, CEO of CRAiLAR, said:
purpose applications that
According to CRAiLAR, the unit is operated by very “We are breaking new ground bringing our technol-
are suited to the specific
experienced personnel with considerable knowledge ogy into production and we learned some difficult needs of our customers
of fibre and while in due diligence, produced the lessons over the past nine months. Much of what across the region.
highest quality CRAiLAR Flax fibre to date. we are doing has never been done at scale before “We started construction of
CRAiLAR is acquiring the facility with no capital by and setbacks are unfortunately inevitable. the facility in February 2012
retiring approximately $1.2 million of the vendor’s “We have however made significant progress and in close cooperation
debt over a three-year period. Additionally, CRAiLAR during the quarter positioning the company for a with the Shanghai Minhang
entered into a ten-year lease and option to pur- prosperous future and an achievable path towards United Development Co
chase agreement on the building housing the facility profitability with our European production facility. Ltd and the Government of
with a renewal option for an additional ten years. Our team is committed to realising CRAiLAR’s po- Minhang District, the Center
Also, due to the transaction, CRAiLAR will post- tential as are our customers who continue to work was completed on schedule
pone the completion of a fully integrated facility in closely with us.” in June.”

ISSUE 8 2013 5

P 4-6 News.indd 5 19/11/2013 09:27

 Industry News

SDC Names CSI Colour Award Winner

THE SDC HAS selected Nguyen An image from
Anh’s winning
Phan Ha Anh, of LASALLE
submission
College of the Arts, Singapore,
as the winner of the CSI Colour
Award 2013.
Anh wins £500, the CSI
Colour Award 2013 and a trip
to Mumbai to receive her award
at a prestigious SDC event,
scheduled for November.
The competition, sponsored
by Color Solutions International,
attracted huge interest with
over 150 students registering
from countries including India,
Australia, USA, South Africa,
Ireland, Singapore and the UK.
Anh, a Fashion Design and
Textiles student, said: “It is my
great honour to participate and
to be recognised in the CSI
Colour Award. are all at a very high and profes- Color Search, with their colour ‘Reserved Sunlight’, inspired by
“To be this year’s winner is sional standard.” theme and CSI colour palette the Inuit of the Arctic regions
something that is out of my The brief asked the students clearly shown. which features a colour palette
imagination and I feel extremely to design a trend card for Anh impressed the judges of cool colours and
privileged since the other entries Autumn/Winter 2014 using CSI with her design entitled dark shades.

Indigo Investment Hazard Review

JAPANESE CLOTHING AND lifestyle brand Muji has announced THE ORGANISATION FOR Economic Cooperation & Development
plans to develop a 2,000-square-metre eco-friendly dyeing and (OECD) is to review its chemical-hazard assessment programme
sewing towel plant in Cambodia that will employ more than 300 over the next 18 months, to provide a more specialised service
local people by 2015. The retailer, with a brand presence in nearly for member countries from 2015. This will tailor the system to
600 stores worldwide, is also planning to plant indigo around the help companies and regulators comply with new comprehensive
plant to create an integrated dye material supply. This, it says, will chemicals regulatory regimes in OECD member countries, such as
generate 50 additional jobs. REACH, that require risk assessments.

Italian Textile Machinery Orders Fall

ITALIAN-MADE TEXTILE machinery orders for orders during the year’s third quarter worrisome is the slowdown in technology
for the third quarter of 2013 fell by 7% amounts to a value of 84.5 points, for a investments in China, which represents
compared with the previous quarter. 7% fall compared with the previous three our primary foreign market (accounting for
ACIMIT president Raffaella Carabelli said: months. Export orders have fallen by 9%, roughly 20% of Italian exports).
”The slowdown in the Chinese market whereas domestically they have remained “In other important foreign markets,
is taking its toll abroad, whereas in Italy substantially stable compared with the the situation is much better, but it isn’t
a general lack of confidence is hurting a period from April to June. enough to counterbalance the drop in
recovery in investments.” “Exports have always been our strong China. Further complicating this situation
Based on an economic study conducted suit,” said Ms Carabelli. “A decline in is the record high euro exchange, which
by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile orders abroad affects the performance penalises our exports in markets such as
Machine Manufacturers, the overall index of the entire sector. What’s especially India, Brazil and South Africa.”

6 INTERNATIONAL DYER

P 4-6 News.indd 6 19/11/2013 09:27

Remazol® Midnight Black RGB
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Remazol® Onyx RGB

Balanced dye for Deepest Blacks

Highly concentrated Blacks with outstanding properties

Remazol® Midnight Black RGB: for deepest Blacks with neutral to greenish shade
Remazol® Onyx RGB: for deepest Blacks with neutral to reddish shade

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DyStar, econfidence and Remazol are trade marks of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH.
 Local Colour

Georgia on
the March From John McCurry
North America
Correspondent

GEORGIA HAS HISTORICALLY been one machinery and benefit from economies of Tokyo-based Marubeni Corp to private equity
of the leading textile-manufacturing scale as the entire capacity will be based at firm Blackstreet Capital.
employment centres in the US. It made lots one location. Another Georgia-based yarn spinner recently
of news in October and November with announced some sad news. Werner Bieri, the
major expansions announced and a change founding CEO of Buhler Quality Yarns Corp,
in ownership in one of the state’s venerable ‘The community died on November 2, following a long battle
textile companies.
Georgia is the latest state to see a surge
has given us a warm with leukemia. He had taken early retirement
early in 2013 and planned to start a consulting
in yarn-spinning jobs, a trend during the last welcome and the company. He served as managing director of
half of 2013. Yarn giant Parkdale recently
announced it would boost production at its
many state and local Hermann Bühler AG for eleven years before
opening the facility in Georgia.
plants in Rabun Gap, a small town in the organisations that Mr Bieri served on the executive board of
northeastern corner of the state. Parkdale
plans to spend $85 million while adding
have aided our growth’ NCTO (National Council of Textile Organi-
zations), was a board member of CCI (Cotton
210 jobs. Council International) and the NCC (National
Parkdale bought the massive 750,000- Cotton Council), and was a member of the
square-foot facility in 2009. It produces The company says it will utilise synergies spinners committee in ITMF (International
fibre for high-end activewear. Parkdale plans between the new plant and its existing textile Textile Manufacturers Institute). He was also
to begin installing equipment in early 2014. operations, including technical expertise and a member of the Cotton Board from 2001
The factory will be will be converted from a a global sales and marketing network. until his passing. ID
100% cotton T-shirt product to a polyester/ Founded in 1898, Shrivallabh Pittie Group is
cotton blended yearn for the performance- a leading textile manufacturer with substantial
wear business. The expansion will happen in presence in the Indian textile sector, operating
two stages, with each creating about half of in 13 locations.
the total jobs. Also making news among spinners in
“The decision to reinvest in Rabun Gap Georgia was a move at Swift Spinning in
was easy thanks to the community that Columbus. It recently announced that it has
has given us a warm welcome and the sold all of its private stock to an Employee
many state and local organisations that Stock Ownership Plan (ESOP).
have aided our growth,” said Lee Thomas, “This would not be possible without the
vice-president of services with Parkdale. “An hard work and dedication of our employees,”
investment of this magnitude could not take said Trey Hodges, Swift Spinning president and
place without their support.” chief executive officer. “I am glad to see that
An India-based textile manufacturer this gives us the ability to keep the business
has also picked Georgia for its first US in Columbus and the opportunity to reward
factory. Shrivallabh Pittie Group will build its those employees who have contributed to our
facility near Sylvania, creating 250 jobs and success. I believe this is a win-win situation for
investing $70 million. all the employees, the local community and, of
The facility will be located at the Screven course, our customers.”
County Industrial Park near Sylvania. Swift Spinning employs about 300 in
The plant will manufacture a range of Columbus at two plants. The company
different counts of carded cotton yarn and produces cotton ring-spun yarns for the
production will be flexible in order to meet hosiery, knitted apparel and specialty weaving
market demand. It will use class-leading sectors. The manufacturer was sold in 2007 by Werner Bieri

8 INTERNATIONAL DYER

P 8 Corr.indd 8 20/11/2013 15:18

 Dyes & Chemicals

Huntsman Achieves
Deeper Shades
HUNTSMAN TEXTILE EFFECTS has polarisation resulting from the unique
developed Dicrylan Shade Deepener (SD) orientation of the polymer structure.
to help mills achieve shade depths for The polymer units are oriented
blacks and navies that were previously perpendicularly to each other and the light
unattainable. source. This leads to a significant reduction
The innovation is said to represent a in transmitted light and a significantly
technological breakthrough in achieving deeper and darker shade.
colour depths on all fibres without any “Dicrylan SD is a quantum leap forward
compromise on fastness properties. in deep-dye technology and works
The effect results from the use of light on all fibres,” said Steve Gray, global
scattering and light polarisation. vice-president for strategic marketing and
According to Huntsman, when light hits planning at Huntsman Textile Effects. “We
small particles such as the Dicrylan SD have obtained increases in colour depth
polymer backbone, it is scattered in all by up to 50% and this is a significant
directions, resulting in a visually deeper breakthrough, which will help our
shade, as less light is reflected back. customers achieve much deeper and richer
This effect is further enhanced by light blacks which were previously unattainable.”

Wet Waxing Agent

TANATEX CHEMICALS HAS launched the weaving efficiency by reducing dust
Fibermate CW, a high-performance wet formation, loop damages and yarn breaks.
waxing agent designed to increase the Wet waxing is used during weaving
surface smoothness of the yarn. and knitting when winding the bobbins.
Fibermate CW has been formulated for The process improves removal velocity
application on cotton, viscose, linen and acrylic behaviour, the response speed of
yarns and blends, as well as for use as stitch production and rewinding/weaving
lubricant for cotton knitwear. The agent is consistency. Wet waxing is also said to
distributed over the whole bobbin, increasing achieve higher unwinding speeds.

Textile Chemicals in New

Toxicity Assessment
TEXTILE-FINISHING CHEMICALS are used to dye fabrics in its aluminium
among the 56 new substances that will chloride hexahydrate form. Another is
be assessed for their potential toxicity to 2,2’-oxydiethanol, used as a lubricating
humans and the environment under a draft and finishing agent for wool, worsted,
European Union (EU) Community Rolling cotton, rayon, and silk), as well as a
Action Plan (CoRAP) for 2014-2016. solvent for vat dyes.
The programme is coordinated by the Another are quaternary ammonium
European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) compounds, di-C16-18-alkyldimethyl,
New chemicals to be assessed chlorides, which can be used as
that are used by the textile sector antistatic and softening agents in
include aluminium chloride – which is textiles and fibres.

ISSUE 8 2013 9

P 9-13 DC.indd 9 20/11/2013 15:07

 Dyes & Chemicals

Enzymatic Technology Solazyme

Enhances Cotton Enters Textile
Lubricants
Processing Market
COTTON PRETREATED WITH Gentle allows for low-temperature bleaching of
Power Bleach, which is powered by textiles at 65°C in a neutral pH range with SOLAZYME, A RENEWABLE oil and
DuPont’s enzymatic bleaching technology less water and energy consumed. bioproducts company, has entered into
PrimaGreen EcoWhite, demonstrates a After adopting the technology, ATB the textile-lubricants market through
softer, bulkier, more natural handle with less reported: a commercial supply agreement with
fabric weight loss, according to a new case Goulston Technologies Inc, a global
study conducted between 2006 and 2012. • a measured increase in production producer of high-performance fibre
In addition, the research revealed of 3,380 tonnes in 2006 to lubricants.
significant reductions in water use, 4,409 tonnes in 2012 Goulston has stated that it expects to
energy consumption and chemical use • a measured reduction in water commercialise a new class of sustainable
coupled with notable increases in product usage of 55 cubic metres of products using Solazyme’s renewable
quality and yield by using DuPont and water per tonne of high-performance, Tailored algal oils for
Huntsman’s latest innovation. fabric produced textile lubricants by next year.
Portugal’s Acabamentos Têxteis de • a measured reduction in the use of “Our business continues to grow
Barcelos (ATB), the nation’s leading chemicals per tonne of fabric globally – driven by innovation,” said
knitwear dyeing and finishing specialist produced: 0.55 in 2012 as Srinivasan Ranganathan, Goulston chief
and one of the largest textile mills in opposed to 0.74 in 2006. technology officer. “Solazyme’s unique
Europe, introduced this technology to • a significant reduction in energy renewable Tailored oil technology
its facility with the goal of increasing consumption (measured since provides us with new options to
performance while using fewer resources. 2009). develop our next generation of high
Conventional cotton bleaching techniques performance products.
require a high temperature and large The system also delivers brighter colour “We are committed to using
amounts of caustic chemical additives to shades with a higher colour yield and sustainable raw materials wherever
modify and neutralise the pH range. DuPont bleaches regenerated cellulosic fibres to possible and we are excited to
and Huntsman’s new technology, however, full-white levels, according to ATB. announce the immediate introduction
of high-performance textile finishes
based on Solazyme algal oils. We

Court Ruling Casts Doubt

plan to further expand the use of
this breakthrough technology into
additional products and markets

on Textile Nanosilver
starting in 2014.”
According to San Francisco-based
Solazyme, as a result of continuing
growth in global fibre production,
A COURT HAS ruled that the US beginning of November, the 9th US Circuit industry estimates now put the
Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) Court of Appeals agreed with the NRDC fibre-lubricant market at more than £1
improperly approved the use of nanosilver that the EPA did not follow its own rules for billion annually.
by a US textile manufacturer. It vacated the determining whether the nanosilver’s use in Solazyme’s technology is based on
approval and sent it back to the agency for products would be safe. transforming a range of low-cost
re-evaluation. In December 2011 the EPA had approved plant-based sugars into high-value oils.
“The court’s ruling puts us a step closer the use of HeiQ Materials’ nanosilver
towards removing nanosilver from textiles,” antimicrobial in fabrics for a period of four The agency’s rules state that if there is an
said Mae Wu, an attorney in the Natural years but said the company must provide aggregate exposure to the skin or through
Resources Defense Council’s (NRDC) Health data on toxicity for human health and ingestion at or below a specific level, there
programme. “EPA shouldn’t have approved aquatic organisms. is a risk of health concerns. The Ninth
nanosilver in the first place.” NRDC said the key point in the court Circuit found that the EPA had data showing
NRDC sued the EPA in early 2012 to limit ruling addressed the EPA’s determination that nanosilver was at the level that should
the use of nanosilver out of a concern for that there was no risk concern for toddlers have triggered a finding of potential risk,
public health. In the recent ruling at the exposed to nanosilver-treated textiles. but had approved the antimicrobial anyway.

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 Public Consultation
on Restricting NP
A NEW PUBLIC consultation on the proposed restriction of NPs
and NPEs in textile articles has been announced by ECHA (the
European Chemicals Agency).
The reason for the proposed action is due to a concern for
the aquatic environment.
NPs are used as intermediates in the production of various
derivatives, mainly Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs) which can
break down into NPs again in the environment. NPEs are still
used, for example as detergents, in the manufacturing of textile
articles, particularly outside the EU.
However, washing textiles that incorporate NPs and NPEs is
said to release the chemical intermediates back into the waste
water system and could, potentially, be harmful.
The public consultation on the restriction proposal is open
from September 18, 2013, to March 18 2014. Early comments
were sought by November 29, 2013, to assist with the first
discussions on the proposal, added ECHA.
Meanwhile, an ECHA report into the real cost of replacing
polluting chemicals with supposedly greener alternatives
has thrown doubt on the value of replacing nonylphenol and
nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs) as surfactants in the textile sector.
The report, ‘Estimating the abatement costs of hazardous
chemicals’, notes previous claims that substituting NPEs with
alternative substances (including through a ban on imported
textiles containing NPEs) would cost up to €2 million per tonne
of NPE currently emitted to surface waters. And while the cost of
improving wastewater treatment instead has been estimated at
€400 million per tonne, it says this “will also remove a number
of other pollutants, and these potentially significant additional
benefits, which would reduce the effective cost of NPE abatement,
were not considered in the calculations due to information gaps.”
The report adds: “This omission arguably makes estimating
the abatement cost curve a rather pointless exercise, since
without any adjustment for the co-benefits of wastewater
treatment, the two abatement measures are clearly not
comparable in cost terms.
Furthermore, it argues that the costs of using alternative
chemicals could be higher, because of the need for “additional
testing of textile products, which it was assumed importers
would need to perform.”

Allergy Potential
A EUROPEAN COMMISSION study on potential allergic
reactions caused by chemical substances or mixtures used
in finished textile products has concluded that research
“indicates that 1 to 2 % of all contact allergies are due to
textile products.”
While the ‘vast majority’ of products are safe, some resins
in textiles can cause allergic-contact dermatitis, it claimed.

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 Dyes & Chemicals

UltraTech to Market Luna’s

Self-Cleaning Technology
LUNA INNOVATIONS INCORPORATED has US Army contract, awarded through the a commercialisation success story for us,
granted UltraTech International Incorporated Small Business Innovation Research (SBIR) with the recognition that our breakthrough
an exclusive licence to commercialise its programme to develop self-cleaning uniforms technology is now ready for the commercial
textile repellent technology that protects based on the use of omniphobic coatings. marketplace. Additionally, it demonstrates
clothing from liquids. “Luna’s technology effectively how Luna’s involvement in the SBIR
The agreement allows US-based UltraTech complements our current advanced programme guides the development of our
to commercialise the technology, either to technology product offerings,” said Mark technology to solve specific needs, which
be sold as a standalone product that can be Shaw, co-president of UltraTech. “We’re can then be applied to meet commercial
applied to textiles or as a treated fabric with pleased to partner with Luna, a leader in market demands.”
the technology embedded. technology development, to advance their The fluid-resistant coatings take inspiration
The proprietary chemical technology patent-pending textile treatment that we from nature and are based on hierarchical
features a nanostructured textile coating expect will have many commercial and particles composed of commercially-
that creates an omniphobic treatment which military applications. With our experience in available materials. The coatings can be
repels both water- and oil-based liquids. introducing new products and a global sales applied over other treatments to a variety
This can allow clothes to last longer and channel that matches needs with solutions, of synthetic and natural fabrics, using
reduce laundering, which could present we look forward to bringing this innovative conventional textile-finishing processes on a
cost savings for both consumers and coating to market.” large scale.
organisations such as the US military, and oil “This commercialisation agreement is Luna says fabrics treated with the technology
and gas operations. important for two key reasons,” said My are breathable, lightweight, self-cleaning and
Luna developed the technology under a Chung, CEO of Luna. “First, it represents durable under harsh conditions.

Industry Asked to Identify DecaBDE

Substitution Challenges
THE EUROPEAN CHEMICALS Agency (ECHA) has called for subsequently included in ECHA’s fifth recommendation for the
industry to supply information to identify uses of the flame inclusion of substances in Annex XIV (authorisation list). However,
retardant Decabromodiphenylether (DecaBDE) where substitution in parallel to the recommendation process, Norway has submitted
may be challenging or where companies may need additional a proposal to add DecaBDE to the Stockholm Convention for
time to carry out the change. Persistent Organic Pollutants.
The information will be used in the assessment of feasibility for To EU actions with the fact that DecaBDE will be considered
alternatives in the preparation of an Annex XV restriction dossier, under the Stockholm Convention, the European Commission
which it plans to submit on August 1, 2014. asked ECHA to start the preparation of an Annex XV restriction
According to ECHA, the available information suggests that it is dossier on DecaBDE in accordance with the REACH Regulation.
technically possible to substitute DecaBDE in all applications. As a result, ECHA has removed DecaBDE from the draft
It is not clear, however, whether companies are facing specific recommendation list.
challenges in substitution, or how much time would be needed to It says that, if the restriction dossier demonstrates that action on
overcome possible obstacles. an EU-wide basis is necessary, it will then suggest restrictions, in
ECHA has therefore invited anyone who could be affected by order to initiate the restriction process.
this possible restriction, or who holds relevant information, to In the preparation of the Annex XV dossier, however, ECHA needs
give comments before December 15, 2013, by filling in an online to identify potential uses where:
questionnaire available on the ECHA website (www.echa.europa.eu). • Substitution is not technically or economically feasible, and/or
This call for evidence does not replace the public consultation • Substitution could be technically or economically feasible if
should ECHA propose a restriction. sufficient time is available for the transition.
DecaBDE has been identified as PBT (Persistent, Bioaccumulative For these uses derogations or longer transitional periods may be
and Toxic) and vPvB (very Persistent and very Bioaccumulative), considered.
according to REACH Regulation, and was included in the • Flame Retardancy: Regulatory Developments and Environmental
candidate list for authorisation on December 19, 2012. It was Issues - Page 22

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 EPA Takes Power to Restrict
LCPFAC Imports
THE US ENVIRONMENTAL Protection the Office of Chemical Safety and Pollution any long-chain perfluoroalkyl carboxylic
Agency (EPA) is finalising a rule that will Prevention, said: “While this category of (LCPFAC) chemicals for use in carpets or
allow it to restrict imports of potentially chemicals has largely been voluntarily phased carpet products to submit a notification
harmful perfluorinated chemicals that could out by the US chemical industry and not in use to EPA at least 90 days before beginning
be used in carpets. in this country, they could still be imported in the activity, providing the agency with an
The regulation will require companies carpets. Today’s action will ensure that EPA opportunity to review and, if necessary,
to report to EPA all new uses, including in has the opportunity to take action to restrict place limits on manufacturers or processors
domestic and imported products, of these or limit the intended use, if warranted, for any who intend to reintroduce or import
chemicals once used for soil and stain new domestic uses or imports. products with these chemicals.
resistance in carpets. “This action will also provide a level playing The action is one of several EPA has taken
According to the EPA, these chemicals field for those companies who stepped up to protect the public from perfluorinated
have been shown to persist in the to cease the use of these chemicals in this chemicals. In 2006, the eight major US
environment and bioaccumulate in humans country, while at the same time protecting companies producing LCPFAC chemicals
and animals – they represent a potential the American public from exposure to these committed to the EPA’s voluntary PFOA
threat to American’s health. This action chemicals in imported carpet products.” Stewardship Program, pledging to reduce
follows the US chemical industry’s voluntary The final rule issued on September 30, global emissions and product content of
phase-out of these chemicals and a range 2013, known as a Significant New Use LCPFAC chemicals by the end of 2015. As
of actions by EPA to address concerns with Rule under the Toxic Substances Control part of this phase-out program, the industry
these chemicals. Act, requires that anyone who intends to stopped using LCPFAC chemicals on carpets
Jim Jones, EPA’s assistant administrator for manufacture (including import) or process and aftercare treatment products.

ISSUE 8 2013 13

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 Technical Briefing: Control

Guiding and Controlling

for High Quality
and Performance
By Dr Ian Holme,
History and Latest Developments Technical Editor

Early Developments of yarns, and efforts to control the dye cycle textile wet processing has advanced to levels
were stimulated by the cam-follower system of that could only have been dreamed of by the
THE INDUSTRIALISATION OF the textile Piaggi. The introduction of the Danish VacoPilot textile dyers and finishers of the 18th and
industry was hastened by the mechanical process-control system, originally developed 19th Centuries.
revolutions in spinning and weaving for laundries, appeared in dyehouse control
machinery that greatly increased woven- around 1966, in Courtaulds Ltd. The VacoPilot Fabric Guiding, Spreading
fabric production in the UK by the 1830s. controller used a moving dye-cycle control card
and Weft Straightening
The response of textile wet processing firms and a stationary card reader fitted with micros-
was to move away from handling individual witches, the card being programmed via a Tension control of fabric during wet processing
fabric lengths to continuous wet processing binary system. This controller proved unreliable is essential in order to avoid fabric instabil-
of fabric in rope form. In 1845 John Brooks in practice; indeed, if the moving card became ity, edge curling and fabric distortions. In the
of Sunnyside, Bury, in Lancashire, started jammed in the card reader the whole of the Reggiani ESSETEX open-width drum washing
stitching pieces of calico end-to-end in order electrical wiring burned out, and the controller machine the treatment unit is equipped with
to facilitate their handling during bleaching1, had to be rewired at great expense! two large-diameter fluted drums, which are
a development that was probably stimulated A major development in the late 1960s individually driven by AC motors with frequency
also by the concurrent developments in the was the introduction of Courtauld Engineering control through an inverter. Using load cells
production of industrial sewing machines Limited’s CELCON dye-cycle controller. Based and/or dancing rollers, the fabric tension is
around this time2. He also invented a roller upon resistor-transistor logic, this used pulses measured in real time during processing and
washing machine to handle the fabric as a of electrical energy to control the computer the value transmitted to the PLC (program logic
continuous rope, and this is considered to be system, using programmable logic circuits. controller). This is compared with the pre-set
the birth of continuous wet processing1. This controller was first trialled in Droylsden nominal value and any difference is automati-
Throughout the 19th Century and up until Dyehouse, part of Courtaulds Processing cally set to zero by synchronising the motors
the 1950s there were many developments in Division. The CELCON dye-cycle controller through the inverter. This closed-loop control
guiding and controlling fabric wet processing gave an unprecedented improvement in system is very rapid and accurate and, in com-
but the advent of thermoplastic synthetic process efficiency, the original prototype bination with short centre-to-centre distances
fibres such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, operating for 18 months on production among drums and rollers, renders the ESSETEX
modacrylic and their blends with natural dyeings before a fault developed. eminently suitable for processing both knitted
fibres such as cotton, wool, silk and linen From these early beginnings, the whole field and woven fabrics.
introduced new challenges. Such challenges of fabric guiding and complete control over The Bianco SpA (Italy) DOGAL WET centring
were intensified with the introduction of
elastane, the growth in weft-knitted fabrics,
and the move to lighter-weight fabrics, which
all called for greater precision in both guiding
and controlling under hot, wet processing
conditions, as well as web guiding for
open-width wet treatment and drying.
By the 1960s simple time-temperature
controllers such as the Drayton process
controller were widely used for exhaust dyeing Bianco DOGAL WET

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 device is specially engineered to provide to remove edge curling without any mechanical upon a new technology, this control system can
accurate fabric guidance within machines contact with the fabric. detect, adjust and document the data of critical
operating processes at high temperatures, or in For many other types of fabrics, motorised process parameters in-line, such as dyestuff
saturated steam, or high humidity levels as well selvedge openers LA 82/83/84 can be concentrations, reducing-agent concentrations
as under the action of chemical substances. employed. These incorporate two or three and pH values.
This can also be fitted with a fabric spreading motorised, pivoting spindles to provide reliable The Becatron Datex Touch control system
unit that enables fabric to be opened out spreading of woven fabrics. Knitted fabrics can be used on all types of dyeing machines
smoothly. Bianco Dogal 01 centres the fabric can be similarly spread with the addition of a and has a 4.3in-wide screen-colour TFT
using the full width Bianco FLUO sensor or fourth spindle. Erhardt + Leimer also produces display. The resistance analogue touch screen
edge-following photocell. Bianco Dogal 02 mechanical plate spreaders LS 30/31 for the is supported with an acoustic signal to provide
consists of a roll with slats for fabric stretching, infeed on stenters. These consist of highly tactile feedback. Various options can be used
the roll diameter being selected for the fabrics wear-resistant plastic plates with an angled to connect the Datex Touch control system to
being processed. Bianco Dogal 03 combines profile designed to spread the rolled edges the program editor or the BeCAmaster control
the Dogal 01 and Dogal 02 features with on knitted fabrics. Where thick seams may be panel. This can be established via Ethernet TCP/
very high precision for fabrics destined for present, the two plates are moved apart to IP and/or a serial port using FO or RS-422/485.
continuous printing operations. prevent damage to the fabric or the plates. Wireless networking of the devices is also
For weft straightening, the Bianco RDT optical Mahlo GmbH & Co KG (Germany) produces possible using Bluetooth or WLAN. The Datex
weft straightener uses sensors on reading a wide variety of distortion-correction systems. Touch also features an FTP server for quick data
heads, which detect fabric weft distortions, The ORTHOFACT RMB pin-wheel straightener exchange as well as diagnostic tools, and an
which are then automatically corrected by uses inclined pinwheels, which correct the integrated web server can enable worldwide
regulating the activity of bow and skew roller fabric distortion where the fabric is under a support for remote maintenance.
groups. Woven fabrics that require a higher defined lateral tension. To obtain consistent
tension can be weft straightened using the straightening, two pneumatic cylinders are
Bianco FDC model, which does not have a used, while compensation for friction losses
driven bow roller. However, for weft-knitted and tolerances is provided by a spring that
fabrics that require a lower tension the Bianco generates a counterforce, which forces the
MDC model, which operates with driven bow uniform symmetric alignment of the pin
rollers, is preferred. wheels. Mahlo’s ORTHOMAX RFMB provides a
The Erhardt + Leimer GmbH (Germany) combined system in which pin wheel and roller
ELFEED stenter guider continuously monitors straightening can deal with the most complex
the changing position of the fabric in relation and varying weft distortions. The ORTHOPAC
to the position of the rail, using high-resolution FMC system has been designed for bow
FR55 infrared edge sensors. An appropriate and skew detection using an optical sensing
correction signal is then output to the actuator, system. The ORTHOPAC XRVMC system
which corrects the rail position to ensure exact generates simultaneous control and actuation Becatron Datex Touch 480
pinning with very low overpinning. AC/EC to provide weft straightening via independently
(alternating current/electronic commutation) controllable straightening rollers and was
compact actuators are used in this guidance developed for processing high value textiles
system, which is claimed to be technologically with widely fluctuating distortions.
unique, with an integrated controller and direct
line operation, as well as being maintenance-
free. In the ELFEED KRS 60 stenter guidance the
CCD (charge coupled device) infrared sensor
has a resolution of 0.1mm, which links to the
KR 60 actuator, which is a maintenance-free
brushless motor. Combined with a planetary
gearbox, the power is transmitted to the feed
rail via a pinion on a rack. This highly dynamic
guidance-control system permits operating
speeds of up to 150m/min.
The Erhardt + Leimer ELSPREADER selvedge-
opening devices are designed to overcome Mahlo Orthofact RMB-12
the problems of curling edges on woven and,
especially, knitted fabrics. Their pneumatic Process Control Systems
Eliar T700
selvedge opener LPA 03 spreads and smooths Becatron AG (Switzerland), in a joint
very delicate woven and knitted fabrics that are development with DyStar and Lilienweiss The Eliar (Turkey) T700 textile batch
prone to edge curling. The air-outlet angle on GmbH, Germany, has engineered a novel in-line controller is configurable to all kinds of dyeing
each jet can be adjusted to direct the air flow monitoring system for indigo dyeing. Based machines and processes, is based on the

ISSUE 8 2013 15

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 Technical Briefing: Control

LINUX robust operating system and has a production management system that provides temperature, bay temperature, residual
built-in modular PLC (program logic controller). production planning, order processing, data moisture, etc, as well as power and gas
This can be connected to Teleskop Central acquisition and a breakdown of information consumption and alarm logging, can be
Supervisory and Control software via a 100Mbit on individual production batches, eg. times, monitored. The system is PC-based and the
Ethernet connection. The T700 textile batch consumption and costs. monitoring system can be connected to the
controller thus provides easy usage and Enmos (Turkey) has a range of Simplex controller via internet browser or local intranet.
process monitoring with more than 80 built-in dyeing computers, engineered to customers’ Just one of the many features available
process functions for dyeing, drying and rinsing, requirements. The Simplex 640, Simplex 240 on the Setex Schermuly textile computer
together with optimisation and accelerator and Simplex 150 provide sensitive control GmbH (Germany) OrgaTEX.MES production
features, archiving, backup and maintenance. with monitoring and reporting facilities. The and performance management software
Sedo Treepoint GmbH (Germany) produces Simplex 640 has an easy-to-use 800 x 600, for textile finishing is their Setex Energy
the compact SEDOMAT 2500, which 12.1in colour TFT screen, while the Simplex and Utility management system. Setex
incorporates a user-friendly colour touch-screen 240 and 150 have a 320x240 TFT screen. SECOM controllers monitor the required
interface, internet technology, USB interface These can be linked to the Enmos Focus BI consumptions, temperatures, levels, pressure,
and many other state-of-the-art features. This central monitoring and management software conductivity, etc, and energy flows on the
runs on the Windows CE operating system, system incorporating business intelligence for machines and other production equipment;
which is considered the ideal choice for production planning to minimise time, cost eg. boilers are integrated for data collection
industrial environments. The SEDOMAT 2500 and material losses. and analysis. This enables the energy-saving
can be connected to the SedoMaster central potential and the avoidance of energy peaks
management system and can be integrated that could adversely influence the volume
with chemical-dispensing and dye-kitchen and quality of production to be realised. In
automation. The SedoMaster is an advanced addition, the OrgaTEX Energy Management
module consists of an advanced data-analysis
system for appropriate decision-making by
production management. ID

References
1. FW Thomas, J Textile Inst., 42 (8)
Enmos Simplex 230
August (1951), Proceedings, P703.
The Adaptive Control Stenter Monitor 2. GR Taylor (Consulting Editor), The
(Adaptive Control Solutions Ltd, UK) can Inventions that Changed the World, 1st
monitor actual stenter performance over Edn (The Readers Digest Association
the production networks. A wide variety of Limited, London, 1982) 249.
Sedomat 2500 process parameters, eg. fabric speed, fabric

Digital
Digital
Issue 5: 2013 textile

textile
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to textile applications in digital inkjet printing and covers all key markets,
including fashion & home, flags & banners, T-shirts and carpets.
Subscribe today to make sure you receive your regular update from the digital textile printing. Published by

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INTERNATIONAL DYER

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 Technical Briefing: Silk

GM Puts Colour into the

Lives of Silkworms
Japanese researchers have transplanted fluorescent proteins
into silkworms, to produce silk thread that exhibits colour under
UV light. Julian Littler reports

JAPAN’S SILK INDUSTRY has been shrinking

since the recent inundation of cheaper
Chinese silk, especially on the mass market.
This lower-priced competition from its giant
neighbour has caused a large decline in silk
farming numbers across Japan.
Hardship, however, often breeds invention.
Researchers at the National Institute for
Agrobiological Science (NIAS), near Tokyo, this
year announced the creation of fluorescent-silk
producing silkworms, which could give Japan
the edge. It remains to be seen whether such
technology can breathe new life into this most
traditional of Japanese industries.
Led by Tetsuya Iizuka and Toshiki Tamura,
the NIAS research team successfully
transferred naturally occurring fluorescent
proteins from various marine creatures into
silkworms to produce the novel thread. The
result was the successful binding of the
proteins to the insect’s DNA, causing silk
spun by the cultivated caterpillars to glow
under ultra-violet lights. Under normal light
the silk has quite a natural appearance.

Three Colours
To date the fluorescent silk has been spun
in three colours: orange, red and green.
Whilst only seen when viewed under UV or
black light, this is a neat trick which holds all
kinds of promise for producing coloured silks
without dyes in the future.
The invention was a while in the
development. Dr Iizuka’s first successful
genetic transfer with a silkworm was in 2000.
Coloured silk was first spun by one of his
project caterpillars in 2007, after a successful
transferral of fluorescent proteins into
silkworms.
The technique can produce various colours.
Continues on page 19 picture: Tetsuya Iizuka/NIAS

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 Analysis: Dye Market

China’s Pollution Controls Are Putting

a Squeeze on Dyestuff Supplies
David Stevenson reports

STRICTER CONTROLS ON pollution in China

are causing a raw-materials shortage and a
crisis in the supply of reactive dyes, while this
and other market factors are pushing up prices.
Many Chinese producers of chemical
intermediates and dyestuffs are working at
limited capacity or have even closed down as
a result of pollution regulations. Even dye and
pigment manufacturers with a clean record are
facing supply problems – and when these same
manufacturers are unable to run at normal
capacity, they are seeking to compensate for
the loss of revenue by raising their prices.
“Generally speaking, the Chinese dye
industry is going through a ‘period of change’
because of the Government’s Pollution Control
Act,” Ying Rodman, a senior buyer at Keystone
Aniline Corporation told International Dyer,
adding that the new president of China, Xi
Jinping, was taking very serious steps to
resolve the country’s pollution issue and this
was causing a raw-materials shortage in the
dye and pigments industry.
Heavy penalties or even imprisonment are
now possible if companies do not comply
with the new pollution-control regulations.
But this has created a ‘catch 22’ for small
chemical and dye producers in China – as the
complying with the law on waste treatment
can wipe out their profit.
A Chinese industry source, who asked not
to be named, told International Dyer that the Dye and chemical production units in China. Pictures: Fan Jing Cheng/Greenpeace
government crackdown has led to the closing
down of many dye-intermediate companies, in the reactive-dye market, another negative and better profit margins are the main
which were large polluters. influence on the prices of dyestuffs is the price reasons for the increase,” she said. “But
control of strategic intermediates like H-Acid going forward we are likely to see material
Main Players and Gamma Acid. shortages, reduced production capacities,
“There are now three main players in terms of “The above-mentioned reasons do affect rising prices, longer delivery lead times
dye intermediates in China,” he said. “Mainly the prices of dyestuffs, as the normal demand and, in some cases, the elimination of the
Longshen, Jihua and Runtu (the rest are small for dyestuffs is much bigger than what the production of certain colours.”
players) and these affect the prices, which has, market can produce,” he said. “In some cases Mr Zeegers also commented that the
in turn, been affecting the reactive dye and price increases between 100-200% have been raw-material shortages and price increases
disperse dyestuff industries.” noticed recently.” being experienced today are much worse
Rudolf Zeegers, a director at Dutch dye Ying Rodman also noted that it is expected than was witnessed in 2008 – “which is most
manufacturer Triade, added that although that dye and pigment prices will not probably caused by the serious awareness of
pollution control is currently a major factor decrease for some time. “Supply, demand, politicians that it is time for a drastic change

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 and that the wellbeing of their inhabitants is of money in order to comply with the new some point it will level off.”
becoming much more important than before,” regulations and want to see a reasonable return However, looking to the future,
he said. on their investments. International Dyer’s Chinese source stated
“We also learned that small businesses are “How much the prices of dyestuffs will that despite the raw material shortages, and
being forced to close down, as they cannot increase is difficult to predict but, as stated price increases, dye intermediates will always
comply with the new strict pollution control before, investments made in order to comply be around in China and that a ‘meltdown’
regulations or are not willing to do so and with the new pollution control regulations have is not on the cards, so long as there are no
choose to start up a more profitable business. to be compensated,” said Mr Zeegers. substitute products.
Due to the closure of small dye producers As well as the problems at the raw-material “This is, in part, because the big retailers
you will see that the medium-sized and large end of the market, the price increases are like Nike, adidas, Puma and Zara need
companies will get more control over the total being felt by the downstream purchasers and reactive and disperse dyes to create their
dyestuff productions.” garment manufacturers. “The price increase fashion fabrics,” he said.
is coming and it is going to affect everyone Mr Zeegers also noted that the cheap
Reasonable Return including the end-users and end-consumers,” prices once seen for dyestuffs in China are
This will affect the prices of dyestuffs because noted Ms Rodman. “There is only so much of unlikely to return. But they will, after some
these larger companies have invested a lot an increase that the market can take and at time, stabilise at a certain higher level. ID

Continued from page 17

GM Puts Colour into the Lives of Silkworms
According to Dr Iizuka there are more doing this work for the farmers raising silk chemicals used while dyeing silk would
available colours than the three described in the worms, I want to help them,” he adds. be used less if his silkworms became the
academic paper (in the peer-reviewed journal This is a key issue. Unlike many GM seeds standard. He argues this would help improve
‘Advanced Functional Materials’). His team has in farming, the nature of the transgenic the environmental impact of the silk industry.
successfully produced an increasing array of transplanting of fluorescent proteins into Dresses, wedding dresses, shirts, scarves
fluorescent silks. silkworms ensures their offspring will and kimono have already been made from the
Dr Iizuka insists that until they publish also have the gift of glow-in-the-dark silk and are on display in the institute research
the latest results he will not reveal the other thread. Theoretically, once a community rooms, although none have been sold so far.
four colours, although he says it is possible of the genetically modified glow worms is When asked about cost, Dr Iizuka said that
to create any colour within the thread using established no more genetic modification will the process of gathering the new silk from GM
this technique. be needed to induce colour. cocoons currently costs more than working
Furthermore, the new GM silk is just as The fluorescent proteins for the green, traditional silkworms, which would at present
smooth and strong as normal silk, says the orange and red come from a jellyfish and cancel out the financial gains of not having to
NIAS team, dismissing some media reports two different kinds of coral, respectively. The dye silken fabrics.
claiming that the fluorescent silk created by researchers took the fluorescent proteins from This is because the usual method of heating
genetic modification is weaker than normal these marine animals and injected them in the silken cocoons to 100°C, before dipping them
varieties. eggs of silkworms to mix with their DNA whilst into an alkaline solution to collect the material,
the insects developed into caterpillars. does not work for the glowing silk. If you
Higher Quality Maybe unsurprisingly, the representatives heat the fluorescent silk too high, then the
Early GM tests were carried out on a kind of of the traditional silk-making sector in Japan fluorescent proteins will be destroyed.
silkworm that produces weaker or poorer- are cautious about this latest innovation. An To maintain the colour it is essential to heat
quality silk. Knowing that such a product executive from the Federation of Japan Apparel the cocoons to a lower temperature and use
is of little use to the industry the team set Industrial Associations said he had not heard of a different level of alkaline to harvest the silk
about interbreeding the genetically modified the new silk and did not want to comment. for use, which currently incurs more cost. The
silk-producer prototypes with a kind that A senior official from the Japan Silk and research paper states that ‘the application of
produces stronger, higher-quality silken thread. Synthetic Fabric Industrial Federation said that low temperature and a weakly alkaline solution
The experiment was successful and better none of his producers have seen the fluorescent for cooking and reeling enables the production
quality thread was created along with a new silk yet, so the organisation cannot comment. of silk fibre without loss of colour.’
kind of silkworm. He added that if the silk cannot be produced Another potential weakness is that the
“There is almost no difference between in large amounts then the impact will be small. colour only lasts two years, while dyed
fluorescent silk thread and other kinds of However, given that the GM silkworms can colours last a lot longer. However, the results
silk, other than the colour,” says Dr Iizuka breed, that seems unlikely. The trials alone indicate that large amounts of genetically
adamantly. If the goal was to make silk stronger involved the rearing of 20,000 silkworms. modified silk can be made by transgenic
than normal then you would transfer spider silkworms and the silk is applicable as
protein into the silkworm eggs, work other Environmental Impact functional fibre for making fabrics and for use
researchers are already carrying out. “I am Dr Iizuka stresses that environmentally harmful in medical applications. ID

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 Technical Textiles

DSM Targets ‘Jean’ Strength Bio-based Leather Substitute

DSM, THE PRODUCER of Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene CHOMARAT HAS DEVELOPED a new bio-based coated fabric
(UHMwPE), branded as Dyneema, has joined forces with Levi’s 501 called Oflex Bio-based, which is made from Gaïalene, a sustainable
jeans to create an improved blend of strength and durability in the latest thermoplastic plant-based resin produced by Roquette. It exploits
denim styles. newly developed Thermoplastic PolyOlefins (TPOs).
Dyneema, one of the world’s strongest fibres, which is used in The Oflex Bio-based range consists of a textile material or foam
products to protect law enforcement officers, bikers and industrial coated with these new bio-based TPOs. The coating lends itself
workers, can now be found in Levi’s 501 Warrior and Trooper cuts.
readily to dyeing, is free of plasticisers and is recyclable in the
The addition of Dyneema fibres into the new jean fabric cotton blend
polyolefin stream, says Chomarat.
brings about a 25% performance improvement in abrasion resistance
“The technical partnership with Roquette allowed us to develop
and strength over traditional jeans of the same weight, stated DSM.
an entire line of fabrics coated with biobased TPOs that are free
of phthalates and PVCs,” said Philippe Chomarat, manager of
Dyneema can now
be found in Levi’s
Chomarat’s Plastics business line. “Thanks to their great flexibility
501 Warrior and and softness, our products offer a genuine alternative to coated
Trooper styles
PVCs and leathers.
“The soft touch and ease of dyeing open up new prospects in
our traditional markets of leather products, luggage, telephony,
sport & leisure activities, and event furnishings.”
The range is said to contain 25-35% plant-based resources and
the plant-based resin gives it a low carbon footprint compared
to fossil resins.

Surgical Advance Wins

Innovation Prize
FRANCE’S TOP PRIZE for from Emmanuelle Butaud-

New Institute to Focus textile innovation – the Prix

International Théophile Legrand
Stubbs, secretary of the Union
des Industries Textiles de

on Smart Fabrics
de l’Innovation Textile – has France, and Christian Cambier,
gone to science entrepreneur a descendant of Théophile
Coralie Marchand, a doctor of Legrand, considered the
THE NEW CORNELL Institute of Fashion and Fiber Innovation (CIFFI) in textile mechanics at Laboratoire founder of the French woollen
Ithaca, New York State, USA, will attempt to foster collaborative research de Physique et Mécanique industry in the 19th Century,
and development projects – in particularly those related to functional Textiles (LPMT) of the Université after whom the prize is named.
fibres, performance apparel and sustainable production processes that de Haute Alsace in Mulhouse, This is the 5th time the annual
limit waste – in order to expand the possibilities of smart fabrics. and at the Ecole Nationale prize scheme, worth a total of
“With our land-grant mission, Cornell stands for research that matters Supérieure d’Ingénieurs €18,000, has been mounted
in everyday life,” said Alan Mathios, the Rebecca Q. and James C. Sud-Alsace (ENSISA). and nominated candidates have
Morgan Dean of the College of Human Ecology. “By working with Dr Marchand runs her come from round the world.
industry partners, CIFFI can take cutting-edge research at Cornell in fibre own spin-out company This year’s runner-up was Fern
science and fashion design and accelerate its application into clothing manufacturing textile-based Kelly, a graduate of Victoria
and goods that improve people’s lives.” valvular stents – surgical University in Wellington, New
At the first roundtable meeting of the CIFFI, clothing designers, devices that are inserted into Zealand. While at the Gemtex
textile scientists and business leaders from as far away as Hong Kong, the arteries of cardiovascular laboratory in Roubaix, France,
Italy, Brazil and California – including Cornell alumni – gathered near patients to improve the two years ago she formed
Manhattan’s Garment District with Cornell experts to discuss how to operation of damaged valves. her own start-up company
best weave fashion and function to bring such bold ideas to market. Clinical trials of the innovative to produce and market
“Our goal is to build stronger partnerships with the fashion industry device are said to hold the her own new method of
to translate great ideas in the laboratories into commercial products, promise of avoiding invasive sustainably colouring wool,
making real impact for industry and communities,” said Jintu Fan, chair surgery and to bring hope with nanoparticles of gold
of Cornell’s Department of Fiber Science & Apparel Design (FSAD) in the to 4 million sufferers whose and silver. The method has
College of Human Ecology. “If you can work well with industry, industry condition is considered given birth to a new range of
will want to work with you, and by founding this institute, we raise the inoperable. innovative dyes that are also
potential for what we can do in design, research and scholarship.” Dr Marchand received her prize antibacterial.

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 Ensuring Flame Retardancy
on Synthetics
A NEW FABRIC range from Schoeller Textil AG
has been described as ‘uniting permanent flame
protection’ on polyamide and polyester.
“The pyroshell technology facilitates
permanent flame protection on synthetic fabrics
without the use of conventional and often
environmentally harmful flame retardants or
additives and is produced in accordance with
the bluesign standard,” said the company.
Like the already well-known Schoeller-WB-
400 textiles, pyroshell synthetic outer
Test performance of Schoeller’s pyroshell outer fabric
fabrics in polyamide or polyester are
lined. The connecting layer is the pyroshell a greatly reduced density so that both heat approximate 100°C lower temperature increase
coating, which can barely be felt and and gasses which promote burning – such on the next-to-skin side of the fabric. In
guarantees both permanent bonding and as oxygen and the flame’s free radicals – are addition to the EN ISO 15025 flame test, the
permanent flame protection. widely repelled by the fabric. thermal transfer index for convective heat –
When a fabric with pyroshell technology is First tests with conventional flame protection Code B in accordance with ISO 9151 – as well
exposed to a flame, a physical process triggers fabrics of a similar weight, with flame as the thermal transfer index for radiant heat –
a major increase in volume. Therefore, the impingement applied over 10 seconds in Code C in accordance with ISO 6942 – are also
layer created by the new technology displays accordance with EN ISO 15025 show an tested in the context of EN ISO 11612.

Monster Silk
Commercialisation Deal
PurThread Closes
KRAIG BIOCRAFT
LABORATORIES (KBLB),
world-class technical textiles
applications engineering and
Equity Round
a developer of advanced weaving abilities is a bold PURTHREAD TECHNOLOGIES to focus on additional
spider silk based-fibres, move which we believe will has closed an equity round ways to reduce the spread
has signed a collaborative enhance and accelerate the worth just over $7 million. of infection. Just look at
development agreement with penetration of spider silk into The investment was led what has happened with
Warwick Mills concerning technical textile markets,” said by the company’s chair, the hand sanitizer market.
the commercialisation of Kraig CEO and founder, Kim Richard Bodman, with a We’re excited about the
advanced textiles utilising Thompson. select group of experienced expansion of PurThread’s
Monster Silk. “Warwick Mills is recognised investors wanting to reduce current product offerings and
Under terms of the for engineering technical the bioburden in the hospital the promise of PurThread’s
agreement, the two textiles with protective environment. research into future
companies will jointly develop applications and its ability Funding will be put toward applications.”
innovative textile products to bridge the gaps between the growth, research and In the PurThread
based on Kraig’s Monster Silk innovative technologies and development of PurThread’s award-winning process,
fibres. Additionally, the firms market integration. Their technologies. each fibre is embedded with
will jointly own textile product global reputation is built on “The markets for PurThread’s a proprietary antimicrobial
related intellectual property the foundation of innovation innovative technology and agent, providing an even
which is developed as a result and performance,” he said. products are compelling. We distribution of the active
of the partnership. Charles Howland, president are pleased to support the ingredient. The company’s
“This collaborative of Warwick, said: “These company’s goal of continuously unique manufacturing
undertaking represents a technologies could potentially reducing the level of bioburden processes are said to ensure
huge step forward in our result in higher performance in hospital environments,” said that the antimicrobial agent
commercialisation efforts. The textiles which would enable Mr Bodman. is non-leaching and retains
pairing of Kraig’s spider silk very advanced safety and “Antimicrobial resistance is its efficacy through repeated
technology with Warwick’s military equipment.” on the rise, leading hospitals launderings.

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 Technical Briefing: Flame Retardants

Flame Retardancy:
Regulatory Developments
and Environmental Issues
By Dr Ian Holme,
Dr Ian Holme delivers a detailed update, based on Technical Editor
papers delivered at two recent expert gatherings

SOME IMPORTANT AND ongoing

developments in flame-retardancy legislation
within the UK and the European Union were
discussed at two recent meetings.
First, the Autumn Meeting of the Society of
Chemical Industry’s (SCI) Fire and Materials
Group (FMG) took place at the Holiday Inn,
Bolton, UK, in conjunction with the EU COST
MP1105 FLARETEX Standardisation Meeting.
This discussed the legislative landscape
surrounding flame-retardant textiles and textile
composites within the European Union (EU),
versus that in various individual Member States.
The second conference was the FRETWORK
Pictured at the Bolton conference are: (from left): Professor Baljinder Kandola, University of Bolton; Professor Paul
FORUM, held at the Junction 25 Conference Kiekens, Ghent University; Dr Janet Murrell, Warrington Fire Research (Exova); Frank Moore, Chairman, CEN TC/248
Centre, Brighouse, UK, which discussed UK Textiles; Dr Shonali Nazaré, NIST; Pros Van Hoeyland, Centexbel; Professor Richard Horrocks, Chair, SCI Fire and
Materials Group
Standards and Regulations relating to flame-
retardant textiles, with the focus on recent ticles, layer-by-layer deposition technologies cation standards were based on different
proposals designed to amend the Furniture and sol-gel technology were being explored, parameters in different countries and the
& Furnishings (Fire) (Safety) Regulations 1988 together with multifunctional finishes combining requirements differed, making inter-country
(FFRs), which in due course will be circulated for flame retardancy with other styles of finish, comparisons difficult. Problems arose in the
formal public consultation. eg. water-and-oil repellency. FLARETEX action areas of recycling/no recycling requirement,
Some highlights from both meetings will now activities included conferences, workshops, the composition of products, any ageing
be described. training schools, short-term scientific missions, requirements influenced by the presence of
standardisation meetings, etc2. flame retardants, and environmental consider-
Flame Retardancy Professor Richard Horrocks (Chair, SCI Fire ations. He pointed out that there were a limited
At the Bolton meeting the first session was and Materials Group) discussed UK textile- number of EU standards, almost no harmonised
chaired by Professor Baljinder Kandola related legislation and testing. Fire statistics in EU standards, and no European Directives/
(University of Bolton). In this session, the UK were solidly based, but EU fire statistics regulation in most areas, so that National
Professor Paul Kiekens (Ghent University, did not exist and world fire statistics were not Standards were used instead of EN standards.
Belgium) gave a COST Activity update, the reliable. If the UK legislation on upholstered Dr Shonali Nazaré (guest researcher,
objective of the COST programme being to furniture were to be transferred into the EU, NIST, USA) delivered her own personal view
build a European multi-disciplinary knowledge there was great potential for savings lives, of the current state of US textile/upholstered
platform on sustainable flame retardancy1. because over 100 lives a year had been saved furnishing-related flammability legislation
Working groups were looking at ‘safer in the UK since their introduction. A compre- and testing. There were 1,600 fatal fires in
alternatives’ to halogenated flame retardants, hensive description was then given of UK flame- residential buildings, some 2,495 deaths, and
increased use of phosphorus-based flame retardancy legislation and testing requirements 79% of fatal fires extended beyond the room
retardants as a possible and potentially safer for nightdresses, nightwear and upholstered of fire origin. 26% of fires started in bedrooms,
alternative to halogenated flame retardants, furniture, fabrics for transport and personal 23% in living spaces and smouldering cigarettes
and the development of novel, sustainable, protective equipment. were a major source of ignition. The progress
nano-based flame retardants for synthetic Pros Van Hoeyland (Centexbel, Ghent, of flame retardant testing for mattresses had
polymer-based textiles. Belgium) reviewed EU textile-related legislation evolved as follows:
The use of natural and hybrid nanopar- and testing and pointed out that the specifi- 1975: Cal TB117 (California Technical

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 Bulletin) – became a de facto National as comfort, durability and lower cost made on the materials. The flammability testing
Standard. • develop or implement other solutions, eg. of yarns/threads for protective clothing was
1979: UFAC Voluntary Standard other types of foam another problem area.
(cigarette ignition, component tests) The second day’s session was chaired by
1980: Cal TB 116 (cigarette ignition, Assistant Professor Dr Bengi Kutlu (Dokuz Dr Sabyasachi Gaan (EMPA, Swiss Federal
full scale test) Eylül University, Izmir, Turkey) discussed Laboratories for Materials Science and
1991: Cal TB 133 (large open flame ignition, textile flame-retardancy standards in Turkey. Technology, St Gallen, Switzerland). Frank
full scale test) After describing various test procedures Moore (Chairman, CEN TC/248 Textiles)
2005: 16 CFR 1634 Consumer Product she concluded that there was still a need to described with considerable insight how
Safety Commission Proposed Rule for introduce new standards on flame-retardant European Standards (CEN and CENELEC) were
Residential Furniture textiles in Turkey as well as flame-retardancy made, concentrating on the various stages of
2013: Cal TB 117 (Component tests regulations. Some Turkish standards were the development of a European Standard (EN)
including smouldering ignition) difficult to understand and there were and the relationship to National Standards and
difficulties in procuring special products/ International Standards (ISO).
The significance of these developments materials for the standards, as well as radiant Professor Richard Hull (University of
was clearly discussed in depth and Dr Nazaré heaters and PVC simulant materials for molten- Central Lancashire, Preston, UK) gave an
considered that a number of things needed to metal splash tests. academic view of toxicity standards in relation
be done, namely: Dr Eng Ana-Maria Mocioiu (INCDTP – The to various types of textile fires (see Table 1). He
• establish a US regulatory framework National Research and Development Institute pointed out that fatalities in fires mainly come
based upon performance requirements for Textile and Leather, Bucharest, Romania) from inhaling toxic gases, and the proportion of
• develop repeatable test methods that described the dilemma faced by testing labora- fatalities from this cause was increasing. Flame
accurately predict fire performance in the tories and small-medium enterprises (SMEs) retardants that operated in the gas phase could
real world in dealing with the different test regimes and potentially increase the yields of toxic gases
• develop standard reference materials standards within EU Member States. EN 1103, like carbon monoxide and hydrogen cyanide,
(SRM) for use in testing for example, had no classification system while irritants and smoke. The testing methods used
• develop better fire-barrier materials – EN ISO 6940 and 6941 (without classification were:
to meet fire safety requirements as well or criteria) meant that comments could not be • cone calorimeter, controlled atmosphere

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 Technical Briefing: Flame Retardants

for well-ventilated flaming fires

• closed box tests – NBS Smoke Box
• simple tube furnace tests – NFX – 70 –
100 Apparatus (French)
• Steady State Tube Furnace (SSTF) ISO
FDIS 19700

Experiments had demonstrated

that changing the fire conditions from
smouldering to well-ventilated flaming fire
and then to underventilated fire conditions
dramatically increased the toxic carbon-
monoxide yields from burning polypropylene
and polyamide textiles. The hydrogen Pictured at the FRETWORK Forum are (from left): Dr Philippe Salémis, EFRA; Dr Jelle Mertens, International Antimony
Association; Lein Tange, ICL Industrial Products Europe SV; Dr Florian Kohl, Albemarle Europe SPRL; Peter Wragg,
cyanide yield from burning polyamides also
FRETWORK
increased in a similar manner.
Dr Adrian Beard (Clariant Produkte Table 1: Stages of Fire Growth – Toxicological Signs
[Deutschland] GmbH, Heurth, Germany)
Fire Parameter Smouldering Well-Ventilat- Small Under- Post-
discussed what the Phosphorus, Inorganic, Fire ed Flaming Ventilated Fire Flashover
Nitrogen Flame Retardant Association Fire
(PINFA) members were doing in the search
Toxicity High Low High High
for potentially safer flame retardants. Their
EU membership had in excess of 33 flame Volume of Effluent Very Small Small Large Very Large
retardants on the PINFA website3. Flame Toxicological Significance Low Low High High
retardants had to be compatible with the
polymer and processing, produce high flame Product Safety Directive (GPSR). He moved on • new products in or out of scope, eg.
retardancy at low cost and increasingly to explain why the UK Furniture Flammability mattress toppers
important factors were their effect on ecology Regulations were introduced, culminating in • testing becoming more difficult, eg.
and toxicology. A change in one parameter the Furniture and Furnishings (Fire) (Safety) o finding cigarettes for the cigarette test
often impacted on the other four parameters. Regulations 1988 (FFRs). This specified: o test cover fabric (separate amendment
Halogen-free flame retardants (HFFRs) could • compulsory cigarette test needed)
provide similar fire-performance characteristics • compulsory match test over polyurethane • enforcement more difficult: safety
in polymers to brominated flame retardants, foam threatened
except in polymer blends. Importantly, HFFRs • compulsory fillings (‘crib 5’) test • grey areas, eg. overlap with non-domestic
improved smoke suppression; however the • compulsory labelling requirements fire law
leaching of both HFFRs and brominated flame • tests based on BS5852 1979 and 1982
retardants was polymer-dependent. The current review of the FFRs has the
Requirements were prescriptive – it was not following improvement aims, namely to:
Revision of the UK Furniture up to the supplier to decide that a product was • simplify and rationalise the FFRs
‘safe’ (as in the GPSR). Minor amendments • maintain current safety levels
Flammability Regulations
were made in 1989, 1993 and 2010. • reduce levels of flame-retardant chemicals
At the Bolton conference, Terry Edge The FFRs applied to upholstery, both cover in furniture (introduce alternative match
(Policy Manager, Department for Business fabrics and fillings and applied to: test)
Innovation & Skills, London, UK) discussed • upholstery intended for home use • save money for industry, eg. exclude most
the UK Furniture Flammability Regulations • mattress fillings fabrics from the cigarette test (because
(FFRs) and Standards describing how these are • nursery and children’s furniture they have never failed)
developed, implemented and amended. EU law • garden furniture suitable for indoor use • long term: possibly revoke when the
takes precedence over National law and there • furniture in new caravans EU is equivalent (European Commission is
were three EU levels, eg. • fillings of scatter cushions, seat pads and supportive)
• Decision – binding on a country or fillings
company to whom it was addressed The UK Department for Business, Innovation
• Directive – set a goal all Member States The FFRs had universal support but they had and Skills (BIS) initiated a new statistical report
must achieve; but it was up to each how not been amended for over 20 years despite in 2009 that demonstrated that the FFRs were
• Regulation – must be applied in its UK general policy to review every 3-5 years. A still effective at saving lives (around 54 lives
entirety across the EU. decision to review the FFRs was taken in 2009. per year) and also money (around £140 million
The reasons for the review were: to the economy). The Ministerial Decision to
Terry Edge then discussed EU standards, the • consultation on FFRs guidance revealed Review was agreed on the basis that current
standards-making process, and the General many areas that need updating safety levels would be maintained. BIS set up

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 Table 2: Comparison of Options
Option Benefits Draw- Potential impact (test costs to savings in Impact on relative level of fire safety
backs flame retardant use)

1: A, B, C E, G, H, I, J Testing cost would increase dramatically, Confusion on interpretation may lead to

Actual final com- maximum saving in overall flame retard- increased amounts of non-compliant furni-
posite testing ant use on fabric would be in the region of ture however the method would not in itself
30%-50% compromise fire safety

2: A, B, C, F E, I In the worst case overall testing cost would Safety unaffected, potential for manufactur-
Full classification be increased by 20%, maximum saving in ers to make safer furniture by omission of
scheme overall flame retardant use on fabric would easily ignitable components
be in the region of 30%-50%

3: A, B, C, F E, I In the worst case overall testing cost would Safety may be very marginally reduced in a
Substitution of a be increased by 10%, maximum saving in limited number of cases where the actual
single test filling overall flame retardant use on fabric would composite behaves in an adverse manner
+ regulate lining be in the region of 30%- 50% not detected in the test – issues would likely
fabrics & ‘easily ig- be with synthetic covers
nitable’ materials*

4: A, B, C, F E, I In the worse case overall testing cost would Safety reduced in some instances where
Substitution of test be increased by 5%, maximum saving in unregulated easily ignitable materials are
filling + regulate overall flame retardant use on fabric would directly beneath the cover fabric and it is
lining fabrics* be in the region of 30%-50% synthetic in nature, may lead to some meas-
urable increase in furniture fires.

5: A, C, D, F The testing cost would remain the same, Safety significantly reduced for some
Substitution of test maximum saving in overall flame retard- articles, would lead to an increase in the
filling only ant use on fabric would be in the region of number of fires involving furniture which
30%-50% may be measurable

(From ‘Reducing Flame Retardant Usage in The Furniture & Furnishings (Fire) (Safety) Regulations: A Proposal and Discussion on Possible Alter-
natives for the Current Match Test’ – BIS/Intertek7)
Key:
A: Reduction in flame retardant use F: Pre-certification of materials possible
B: Furniture can be made safer ‘by design’ G: Pre-certification not immediately possible
C: More logical to the public/other countries H: Interpretational issues
D: Required number of tests unaltered I: Additional regulated materials
E: Required number of tests increased J: Modified test methods required

* It should be noted that lining fabrics and easily ignitable materials would only need to be tested if they were present, it is envisaged that this
change in regulation would lead to their use being reduced which should improve the overall fire performance.

working groups to advise on three areas of This would take about another 18 months. existing FFRs match-test requirement (for which
the review, namely testing, traceability and the Future improvements were to: testing is undertaken over highly flammable
scope of the FFRs. BIS had convened a group of • encourage industry take-up of alternative polyurethane foam) with a requirement based
test experts to draft new testing requirements, match test and greener chemicals on combustion-modified foam. Five variants on
all of which were now in the draft regulations, • continue to work with the European this alternative have been identified and these
ie. no standard. Commission to rationalise fire safety options are illustrated in Table 2. The most
BIS was introducing an additional across Europe viable of these options are considered to
substantial amendment, namely introducing • investigate new technologies that would be options 2, 3 and 4. It is not possible to
an alternative match test (testing over reduce flame retardant use further, eg. reproduce here all the technical background
actual/stylised composites containing ‘barrier technology’ to the development of these options, but the
combustion-modified foam), which should report has been made available online7. Table
help reduce flame-retardant levels by up Further information on the FFRs is available.4-6 2 shows the benefits and drawbacks of the
to 50% and bring significant cost savings Linking to, and part of, these FFR options and also the predicted impact on
to industry. The next steps in the FFRs developments was the presentation at fire safety.
Amendment Process were: the FRETWORK FORUM by Steven Owen
• BIS to finish drafting amended regulations (Intertek Ltd, Leigh, UK), explaining the Flame Retardants and the
• Submit to Government regulatory informal consultation paper relating to reducing
Environment – Recent
committee flame-retardant usage in the Furniture and
• Go out to public consultation Furnishings (Fire) (Safety) Regulations without
Developments
• Government response – could be lengthy lowering fire-safety levels. This was a technical At the FRETWORK FORUM, chaired by
• Notify European Commission / Member paper detailing a proposal and discussion on Peter Wragg (FRETWORK UK), Dr Florian
States possible alternatives for the current match Kohl (Albemarle Europe SPRL, Belgium)
• Implementation test. Essentially, BIS intends to replace the delivered a presentation (jointly authored

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 Technical Briefing: Flame Retardants

with his colleagues Caroline Ciuciu and Sylvia concerned about an unjustified listing of classified as a carcinogen Cat 3 (R40; DSD) or
Jacobi) on the evaluation of substances under commercial DecaBDE as a POP, which Cat 2 (H351), ‘suspected of causing cancer via
REACH, with special reference to the case could lead to the setting of a precedent inhalation’, but this was based on rat studies
of the flame retardant EBP (1,1’-(ethane-1,2 with unforeseen consequences for future and there was no human evidence. The most
diyl) bis [pentabromobenzene], (CAS No decision-making at the UN level. An immediate likely reason for carcinogenicity in rats was
84852-53-9). EBP is seen as a substitute for consequence would be to harm the potential the particle effect, there being morphological
DecaBDE (decabromodiphenyl ether), a flame for the recycling of products containing differences in the rat respiratory system
retardant which, in the USA and Canada, will commercial DecaBDE, which is required compared with that of humans. Studies had
be voluntarily phased out of production, import by many international objectives for waste also concluded that there was no risk for
and sales from the end of 2013. Albemarle is management and resource efficiency. EFRA has consumers and the environment from exposure
the Lead Registrant for EBP and the UK is the called on the POP Review Committee members to ATO or APO via its use in backcoating or as
evaluating Member State. Further environmental to conclude that the dossier, as it stands today, an additive. The safe use of ATO as a flame-
studies and detailed exposure assessment (with does not fulfil the screening criteria and does retardant synergist has been confirmed by
sensitivity analysis) for the whole life cycle of not justify the development of a risk profile. international assessments, studies and REACH
EBP will be carried out before a final conclusion On 5 July 2013, ECHA withdrew DecaBDE dossiers, and there were no scientific reasons
can be reached by the UK Competent Authority, from the list of substances considered for or forecasts for ATO to be considered as a
probably in 2016 or 2017. Authorisation, at the request of the European SVHC (Substance of Very High Concern) or to
Dr Philippe Salémis (Director, European Commission. ECHA will instead develop a undergo restriction/authorisation under REACH.
Flame Retardants Association, (EFRA), proposal to Restrict the ‘Manufacture, use Lein Tange (ICL Industrial Products, Europe
Brussels, Belgium) gave a regulatory update and placing on the market of DecaBDE and of BV, Netherlands) discussed the experience
on DecaBDE. On 27 May 2013 Norway mixtures and articles containing it’. A Restricted with recycling of flame retardants from
submitted a proposal to nominate DecaBDE as Substance must comply with the conditions WEEE (Waste of Electrical and Electronic
a Persistent Organic Pollutant (POP) under the of the Restriction, and ECHA will publish the Equipment) as a start for a similar process
UNEP Stockholm Convention and has proposed proposal on 1 August 2014. This process for textile, including the whole value chain
that it be listed in Annex A of the Stockholm involves risk assessments and socio-economic from producers to end of life. The TexFRon
Convention as a substance for elimination. impacts and allows two periods of input by 4000 series of polymeric brominated flame
After screening to see whether DecaBDE meets industry. A decision on a potential Restriction retardants had advantages, eg.
the POP criteria the decision to list it would be can be expected at the earliest in August 2016. • low water solubility
taken in May 2017 at the earliest. Dr Jelle Mertens (International Antimony • no leaching
However, EFRA does not believe the Association [i2a], Brussels, Belgium) gave • no migration
Norwegian proposal demonstrates that an environmental, health and safety regulatory • no risk of formation of halogenated
commercial DecaBDE meets the screening update on Antimony Trioxide (ATO). ATO was di benzo-dioxins and furans during
criteria because the proposal contains many the major antimony compound registered processing
inaccuracies, including references to the under REACH, and around 130,000 tonnes • low potential for bio-accumulation
substance itself, its toxicology and its potential were used in 2012. More than 80% of antimony
for accumulation. Commercial DecaBDE is compounds are used as a flame-retardant In addition, the US Environmental Protection
≥97% DecaBDE congenor BDE-209, with synergist for halogenated flame-retardants – Agency has stated that: “Polymers are not
the remainder either Nona-BDE congenors mainly ATO and antimony pentoxide (APO) are readily absorbed by biological species and
or trace levels of Octa-BDE congenors. The used. i2a members have already expended ~ thus are relatively non-toxic.” The EU REACH
composition referred to by Norway of 77.4% €6million evaluating the safety of using ATO assessments give “exemption for polymers.”
BDE-209 is a commercial formulation that and other Sb compounds. Lein Tange concluded that we all had to work
has not been sold for approximately 30 Studies have demonstrated workers’ together as part of the value chain and be
years! With regard to bio-accumulation, exposure to ATO dust can be perfectly active on all levels, including standardisation,
commercial Deca-BDE is not bio-accumulative, controlled by using respiratory protection ecolabels and waste-oriented topics including
as concluded by EU risk assessments. The (dust mask, exhaust ventilation). ATO was polyurethanes. ID
measured bio-accumulation factors (BAF) for
DecaBDE are significantly below the regulatory
References
level of concern (even by the EU regulatory
definition of BAF>2000, which is much stricter 1. http://www.cost.eu/domains (e-mail: COST.MP105@UGent.be).
than the Stockholm Convention of BAF>5,000). 2. http://www.FLARETEX.eu
In addition, commercial DecaBDE has minimal 3. http://www.pinfa.eu/library/brochures.html
potential for adverse effects to human health 4. 2009 Statistical Report into Effectiveness of FFRs.
or the environment, and the Norwegian http://www.bis.gov.uk/files/file54041.pdf
proposal does not cite critical information from 5. http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1988/1324/contents/made
peer-reviewed literature. The proposal also 6. Guide to the FFRs: http://www.//www.bis.gov.uk/files/file24685.pdf
makes assumptions regarding the debromi- 7. Reducing Flame Retardant Usage in The Furniture & Furnishings (Fire) (Safety)
nation of DecaBDE. Regulations: AProposal and Discussion on Possible Alternatives for the Current
Under these circumstances EFRA is highly Match Test (BIS/Intertek) http://tinyurl.com/ovjsw7n

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 Technical Briefing: Water Repellents

Safer Water Repellency

Alternatives for Textiles
By Bill Fiedler, Business Manager, AGC
Chemicals Americas Inc

WHEN SIR EDMUND Hillary made his garments. The performance of these extremely strong bond with carbon,
legendary climb to the top of Mount Everest treatment products is well proven in the yielding very stable organic compounds.
in 1953, he used what was then state- textile industry. Fluorochemicals deliver excellent heat-,
of-the-art equipment. Yet, compared to Environmental agencies and scientists, chemical- and weather-resistant properties
today’s high-performance outdoor gear, his however, have become concerned about when added to products.
gear would have been an added burden. the presence of long-chain perfluorinated Water repellency occurs when the surface
His clothing, tent and pack may have been chemicals (PFCs) in the environment, most tension or energy of a solid surface is lower
waterproofed with wax, or possibly silicone – notably perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA). than the liquid surface tension. When the
adding weight and bulk but little in the way of Research data showing environmental liquid comes into contact with the solid
water repellency, making his trek that much impacts and possible health risks has spurred surface, it beads up and will not soak in.
more challenging. the industry to look for alternatives in a Fluorinated products resist water-soluble
As the textile industry evolved, advances phased shift away from C8-based products. liquids, including water, coffee and milk,
in technologies led to the development A new generation of C6 short-chain as well as oil, alcohol and gasoline, making
of C8 perfluorinated chemicals – fluorine- chemicals, which are fluorine-bearing them highly desirable. In addition, they are
bearing chemical compounds based on eight chemicals with only six carbon atoms, offers preferred to wax or silicone because of
carbon-atom chains. Fluorochemicals have similar performance benefits to C8-based superior stability and durability in extreme
been applied to nonwoven and advanced products but with different environmental conditions. Fluorinated products have
textiles to add water-repellency, stain- and toxicological profiles that are considered the added benefit of imparting repellency
resistance and soil-release characteristics. preferred by many. without changing the colour, texture or
These products have played a key role in breathability of fabrics.
the major growth of the technical-textiles The Power of Fluorine Fluorochemicals reduce environmental
market, improving the durability, wearability Fluorine is one of the most common impact and increase the life and use
and function of a variety of industrial and naturally occurring elements on earth. of garments because they require less
consumer products, ranging from outdoor With a small dimensional size and high frequent washing, as well as lower wash
and camping gear to uniforms and medical electronegativity, fluorine forms an and drying temperatures.

Fluorochemicals are applied to nonwoven and technical textiles, ranging from outdoor gear to medical garments, to improve durability, wearability and function.

ISSUE 8 2013 27

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 Technical Briefing: Water Repellents

The Next Generation of

Fluorochemicals
PFOA, a synthetic chemical, has traditionally
been used as a polymerisation aid in the
manufacturing of fluoropolymers. PFOA is
not used in the manufacturing process of C8
fluorotelomer-based water and oil repellents,
but occurs as an unintended by-product in
trace amounts during this process.
In 2006, the US Environmental Protection
Agency (EPA) invited the world’s leading
manufacturers of fluorochemicals to
participate in a voluntary initiative called
the 2010/15 PFOA Stewardship Programme.
Participating companies agreed to reduce
PFOA, long-chain PFCs and their precursors
by 95% by 2010. Programme participants
are committed to the elimination of
long-chain PFCs from emissions and
products by 2015. Water repellency occurs when the surface tension or energy of a solid surface is lower than the
Canada and the European Union (EU) have liquid surface tension
also taken action to restrict PFOA. The EU
issued directives in 2006 to assess the risks considered by the organisation to be safe for
of continued use of products containing the consumers. Several new C6 products have
compound and to review alternatives. The been reviewed and added to their log.
directives also encouraged fluorochemical Bluesign technologies is a global network
users to switch to alternative technologies. founded in 2000, with an advisory board
The EPA initiative is supported by of scientists, government agencies, trade
members of the FluoroCouncil, a global and industry, and consumer and environ-
organisation that represents the world’s mental organisations. Bluesign partners with
leading manufacturers of fluoropolymers, SGS, the international standards company
fluorotelomers and other fluorinated committed to inspection, verification,
surfactants and surface-property-modifi- testing and certification of environmental
cation agents. FluoroCouncil members standards. The bluesign system has been
have made sustainability and stewardship recognised and adopted by leading textile
a priority and are working with regulatory manufacturers worldwide.
authorities worldwide to phase out
long-chain PFCs and offer short-chain C6 vs C8 Technology
alternatives. Due to concerns raised about long-chain
According to fluorocouncil.com, all of the PFCs, new short-chain, fluorotelomer- in non-human primates indicate that they
FluoroCouncil members were early adopters based C6 products have received increased have substantially shorter half-lives in these
of the 2010/2015 PFOA Stewardship scrutiny during their assessment as animals than PFOA and are less toxic than
Programme. The FluoroCouncil has also proposed alternatives. For this reason, long-chain PFAC chemicals.”
supported the EPA’s Long-Chain PFCs Action short-chain C6 products have been AGC Chemicals Americas Inc became the
Plan, which would expand the reach of the rigorously evaluated by industry and first major fluorochemical manufacturer to
PFOA Stewardship Programme beyond the assessed by regulators. FluoroCouncil successfully develop C6-based products
eight participating companies and calls for members, devoted to assuring that and to completely phase out the production
legally binding regulatory actions against its products keep pace with emerging of C8-based fluorochemicals, so there is
continued use, said FluoroCouncil executive understanding of safety and sustainability, no cross-contamination in the company’s
director Jessica S. Steinhilber in an October have worked closely with the US EPA to products. C6-based products with patented
2012 letter to the EPA’s Office of Pollution provide data on their safe and effective use. C6 polymer structures are the first to be
Prevention and Toxics. The EPA has stated that: “Perfluoroalkyl developed that are free of PFOA at or above
Another organisation, Swiss-based carboxylate (PFAC) chemicals with fewer than detection limits.
bluesign technologies, has developed the eight carbons, such as perfluorohexanoic High-performance and nonwoven textiles
bluesign system to address environmental, acid (PFHxA), are not considered long-chain formulated with C6-based products do not
health and safety concerns for the textile PFAC chemicals. These shorter-chain require pretreatment prior to washing if
industry. The organisation maintains a PFAC chemicals are not part of the EPA’s
‘bluesign bluefinder’ log of products that are Long-Chain PFCs Action Plan because data Continues on page 30

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 Textiles & Sustainability

Lauffenmühle Develops Green Process

Sustainable Workwear
Lauffenmühle is developing a sustainable,
integrated method of manufacturing its work
and protective wear based on the Cradle to
Cradle principle.
Lauffenmühle’s product innovations were
developed in close cooperation with
Bierbaum-Proenen (BP) – a manufacturer
of high-quality work and protective wear
– and the EPEA Switzerland Consulting
Institute, with products being certified by the
Californian not-for-profit Cradle to Cradle
Products Innovation Institute.
The aim is to eliminate waste by making each
end-of-life product the basis of new raw
materials or by reusing it.
Matthias Goost, MD of Bierbaum-Proenen,
said: “We are familiar with Lauffenmühle’s
enormous innovative force, which we really
appreciate. And both companies are united
in their attitude to sustainability.”
For Lauffenmühle, the initial challenge was
to develop infinito yarns whose components
are said to be environmentally safe.
Additionally, the company developed yarns
based on reworx 5 that meet the same
conditions while at the same time resisting
the stresses placed upon them in the textile
leasing business.
Lauffenmühle’s yarns are said to be environmentally safe
The EPEA International Environmental
Research Institute assessed the raw The Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Lauffenmühle has taken up the challenge
materials and ingredients in accordance Institute certified both infinito yarns and and created a ground-breaking innovation
with the Cradle to Cradle CertifiedCM6 reworx textiles with a gold Cradle to Cradle for the textile industry.”
product standard. At certification, the CertifiedCM certification level, ie. all the raw Work clothing that is manufactured from
organisation assesses the materials and materials and chemicals that are used are reworx textiles is bio-degradable and at
closed recycling cycle while also considering said to be safe for biological cycles. the end of its service life it returns to the
energy used and carbon management, Albin Kälin, MD of EPEA Switzerland, said: biological cycle. BP and Lauffenmühle are
responsible handling of water and social “Due to the lack of resource quality, today’s prepared to take back their products after
fairness in the production process. The five common workwear material mixes (PES/ use and to compost them. Appropriate
certification levels are Basic, Bronze, Silver, CO) are a no-go from the point of view of practical composting trials are currently
Gold and Platinum. Cradle to Cradle. As a pioneer in this sector, ongoing, said the company.

Yesim Online in Bursa initiative started by the Bursa production and is one of the most the company’s water
Metropolitan Municipality. established companies in Bursa. parameters and instantly
Initiative
As part of the scheme, the In the factory there is already an transmits the readings on
Wastewater company has set-up a monitoring existing treatment plant. levels of dissolved oxygen in

Monitoring station at its facility, which

Mayor Recep Altepe visited
“The station was established
at Yesim to observe if the
the water, the water conduc-
tivity, pH value of the water,
Yesim Tekstil, the Turkish and examined alongside Senol system was operating and to the water temperature and
knitted fabric producer, has Şankaya, CEO of Yesim Tekstil. show the plant as an example water flow, to the Ministry of
become the ninth company Mr Altepe said: “Yesim Tekstil for other companies.” Environment and BUSKİ.
to participate in an ‘online is a company that services The Yesim Tekstil online “In this way, we manage the
monitoring of wastewater’ the world’s leading brands in tracking system will measure remote control of all the industry

ISSUE 8 2013 29

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 Textiles & Sustainability

in our region and avoid pollution Metropolitan Municipality will

Archroma Wins Selector”. All dyes and chemicals
of the environment. We thank put an end to speculations Innovation Award included have been screened by
Yesim Tekstil CEO Senol Şankaya
for his sensitivity in this matter,”
on our factory and will be an
example for other companies,”
One Way Up Archroma’s product stewardship
specialists against more than 15
said Mr Altepe. he said. Archroma, the successor company eco-standards and criteria, which
Yesim Tekstil, which employs to Clariant’s textile-chemicals provides instant information
some 3,000 people in its Assessing GHG business, has been honoured with access on how each ONE WAY
garment and home textiles the ICIS Innovation Award for its product scores in terms of toxico-
Emissions
production, is based in Bursa, ONE WAY sustainability service. logical and ecological profile and
northwest Turkey, one of Draft Standard Recognised as the Best Business standards.
the most industrialised and A period of consultation closed Innovation, ONE WAY was The second step is: Process
culturally charged metropolitan in November on new draft launched in October 2012 to help Short Listing, during which
centres in Turkey. standard – PAS 2395 –for customers meet their sustain- textile manufacturers can
The company has a daily assessing greenhouse gas (GHG) ability targets in a fast and reliable narrow down their selection of
production capacity of 55 emissions from the whole manner. products to one of four process
tonnes of knitted products, 70 lifecycle of textile products. It is a three-step systematic groups, based on their environ-
tonnes dyed, 100,000 metres of The new PAS is being approach to the selection of mental focus and how it affects
printed fabric, 150,000 pieces developed to meet the GHG chemicals and production climate, resources, waste water
of garments and 60,000 pieces assessment needs of the processes that once completed, content and volumes.
of home textiles. A production international textiles industry gives customers calculation results The third step is: Solution
partner of the Nike brand since and is therefore designed to that assess the cost, performance Selection, based on sophis-
2005, Yesim also manufactures apply globally, reflecting the and environmental profile of the ticated software Archroma calls
for internationally renowned world-wide span of most textile evaluated products and processes. the ONE WAY Calculator. It
brands such as Gap, Banana supply chains. “We developed this approach assesses the cost, performance
Republic, Old Navy, Zara, A PAS is a sponsored, with customers, for customers,” and environmental profile of
Pull&Bear, Massimo Dutti, Esprit, fast-track informal standard says Emrah Esder, Archroma’s products almost instantly.
Hugo Boss, Lands’ End, Tchibo that is developed through a head of marketing chemicals, Possible measurements with the
and Schlafgut. consensus-building process Textile Specialties Business. “Their ONE WAY Calculator include:
Senol Şankaya, Yesim Tekstil facilitated by BSI Standards input was critical in making ONE • the cost and performance
CEO, added that as a producer Limited. For instance, PAS 2395 WAY a sustainability service that of a given product
for many famous brands in the is sponsored by the Korea customers could count on to make process based on relevant
world, the company realises that National Cleaner Production their business more successful.” parameters such as dyes
its main responsibility should Center (KNCPC)-Korea Institute The first step is: Product and chemicals, water,
be focused on environmentally of Industrial Technology Selection, the selection of energy or time
sensitivity. (KITECH) and the Ministry of products based on data on over • their environmental
“The remote monitoring Trade, Industry and Energy 200 ONE WAY products collected profile based on actual
station built in our factory by (MOTIE). and integrated in the “ONE WAY measurements of chemical

Continued from page 28

Safer Water Repellency Alternatives for Textiles
soiled. The repellents are effective for a wide performance through repeated garment adapt to the new technology, manufacturers
variety of woven and nonwoven textiles, leather washings and are highly effective for advanced can learn the best processes and procedures
and paper products. textiles such as outerwear, work clothing, shoes, to incorporate the new technology and
The products are also compatible with uniforms, patio umbrellas, furniture, camping simplify the transition.
residual materials such as dye and auxiliary tents, sleeping bags, tablecloths and napkins, The global shift to restrict C8 may
agents, and no pretreatment or removal awnings and vehicle covers. eventually result in more stringent
of these materials is necessary preceding guidelines or stricter regulatory action.
production processes. As a water-based Integrating C6 Technology Textile manufacturers should allow time now
dispersion, the C6 products are nonflammable. With mounting concerns over PFOA and to explore the options, locate appropriate
Non-ionic charge offers good compatibility with long-chain PFCs, as well as the current industry suppliers, and find the right processes for
other finishing chemicals used in processing. trend to eliminate C8 products, the transition integrating C6 technology and new, safe
C6 products are an alternative solution for to C6-based fluorochemicals is a prudent products into production. By acting now,
nonwoven textiles for the medical industry, move for manufacturers. The technology, textile manufacturers can avoid possible
including surgical drapes and garments, however, is not a drop-in replacement for C8 regulatory and production problems down
bandages and wound dressings, and medical and can require formulation and processing the road and stay in step with the latest
packaging. They also impart durability and changes. By engaging technical support to industry trends in technology. ID

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 oxygen demand (COD), techniques for workers and
biological oxygen demand allowing energy, water and
(BOD), CO2 emissions, chemical savings.
energy consumption and Highly aware of the negative
water usage. impact that the denim industry
has had on the environment, the
Jeanologia Wins company has also developed
other ozone-based techniques,
Sustainable Design such as an eco-washer, G2,
Award which allows users to wash

Winning Team clothes with savings of more

than 60% in water and energy
Jeanologia, the developer of and about 80% in chemicals.
sustainable technologies for It has also created a new
garment finishing, has been nano-technology with the E-soft Sustain Jeanologia Sustainable Design Team Winners
honoured with the award for Best that softens clothes with nano ANADOLU ORTA. industry there is no future in the
Sustainable Design Team during the bubbles, saving an 80% of energy The award was collected by world of fashion.
WGSN Global Fashion Awards. and 98% of water. Additionally, the Spanish company president “I am proud that a Spanish
The prize acknowledges the this technology uses no chemicals Enrique Silla, at a gala held at company is a world leader in
work of Jeanologia in technology and completely removes the Victoria & Albert Museum sustainable textile technology.
and sustainable designs for the discharges to the environment. in London. In Spain we have succeeded
fashion industry. Over the years, Jeanologia was shortlisted Mr Silla added: “Fashion is for the first time on a team
the company has developed as a finalist in its category not only design and glamour. composed by designers
a number innovative solutions with international firms such The way we manufacture our and engineers, fashionists
including a textile laser that as H&M Conscious Collection, products is part of the DNA of and technocrats, working
reproduces vintage and used TIMBERLAND EARTHKEEPERS the product. Without respect all together, developing
effects on garments – while COLLECTION, the New Yorker towards our planet and the technologies that are changing
avoiding the use of harmful and Turkish No.9 PAPER people who work in the textile the world of fashion.”

N E W
soft-TRD SIII
Thies Rapid Dyeing
The New soft-TRD SIII
is the result
of further developments
under the slogan
„Go green with Thies“

Third generation of
soft-TRD machines
for delicate wovens,
knits and non-wovens

For crease and surface

sensitive articles

For more information about Thies products visit our website www.thiestextilmaschinen.de

ISSUE 8 2013 31

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 Research: Vat Dyeing

Partial Replacement of Sodium

Hydrosulphite in Vat Dyeing
By Dr Virendra Kumar Gupta, M.L.V. Textile and Engineering
College, Bhilwara, India

Introduction Abstract Table 1: Pretreatments of

Vat dyes are known for their excellent wash Generally sodium hydrosulphite (Na2S2O4) fabric
fastness and better colour value in dyeing. (ie. sodium dithionite) is a preferred
S. No. Specification Value
As a class, vat dyes are not ready-made reducing agent in dyeing of cellulosic fibre
dyes, but are converted to their ready-made with vat dyes. The high cost and excess 1 Desizing HCL 0.5 %
requirement of sodium hydrosulphite
form by chemical reactions. Broadly, vat 2 Temperature 30°C
increases the cost of dyeing. In this
dyes are classified into two sub-groups: ie. experiment, the use of a combined
Anthraquinoid and Indigoid. In the application 3 Time 6 hrs
mixture of sodium hydrosulphite,
of vat dyes on cellulosic fibre1, the dye sodium bisulphite and sodium sulphite in 4 M:L ratio 1:30
molecules have to be reduced and are appropriate proportions gave good results
in terms of colour value. The cost of 5 pH 3-4
converted into a sodium salt form with the help
dyeing was also reduced significantly due
of sodium hydroxide. The sodium salt form has to partial replacement of hydrosulphite. 1 Scouring NaOH 10 g/l
good affinity for cellulosic fibre. Keywords: Reducing agent, cost of
2 Na2CO3 15 g/l
The perfection of solubilisation depends dyeing, reducing agent mixture, colour
on the pH and the reduction conditions value. 3 Nonionic 3ml/l
of the vatting bath. The effect of sodium detergent
hydroxide concentration in the dye liquor but cannot replace the sodium hydrosulphite 4 Temperature 100°C
on colour yield has been studied2. The because it reacts too slowly6.
5 Time 1 hrs
application of vat dyes on cellulosic fibre is
done in four steps, namely (a) Vatting, (b) 2. Materials 6 M:L ratio 1:30
Dyeing, (c) Oxidation, (d) Soaping. 2.1 Grey Fabric 7 pH 13-14
The most widely used reducing agent to Grey cotton fabric was taken in the
reduce the vat dye is sodium hydrosulphite. It experiment. The pretreated fabric had the 1 Bleaching Hydrogen 3 ml/l
is used at the time of vatting, ie. dye solubi- following specifications: peroxide (50
Vol-
lisation, and during dyeing. The use of an Warp count 16S, Weft count 16S, Ends/inch
ume)
excessive quantity of sodium hydrosulphite 58, Picks/inch 54, Weight 126 g/sqm.
affects the colour value and increases chemical 2 Na2CO3 5 g/l
oxygen demand in effluent treatment. So 2.2 Chemicals 3 Temperature 80°C
to decrease the consumption of sodium All the auxiliary chemicals were of Laboratory
4 Time 1 hrs
hydrosulphite and the cost of dyeing in the Reagent grade. The % purity of different
bath, a mixture of different reducing agents in auxiliary chemicals was measured by their 5 M:L ratio 1:30
different proportions were studied in the vatting standard testing procedure. The % purity of
6 pH 10
and dyeing process. the chemicals was: Sodium hydrosulphite
In the mixture three different reducing agent 84%, Sodium bisulphite 61.4 %, Sodium 2.4 Dyes
were taken, ie. (a) Sodium hydrosulphite, (b) sulphite 91.3% and Sodium hydroxide 94.6% In the experiment, vat dyes s/d brand were
Sodium bisulphite, (c) Sodium sulphite. The in flake form. 50-volume hydrogen peroxide taken. The dyes were supplied by Atul
effects of different mixtures of reducing agent was used in the oxidation of vat dyes. Dyestuff Industries, Valsad, Gujarat, India. The
were analysed in terms of obtained colour following dyes were used in the experiment:
value, wash fastness and cost of dyeing. In 2.3 Water (a) Novatic Brill Red 3B (s/d) Vat Red 10
the vat dye reduction process, the use of The water was passed through a Reverse (b) Novatic Brown 2G (s/d) Vat Brown 26
alkali metal borohydrides, especially sodium Osmosis water purifier before consumption (c) Novatic Olive R (s/d) Vat Black 27
borohydride, can decrease the consumption in the experiment. It had the following (d) Novatic Jade Green XBN (s/d) Vat Green 1
of sodium hydrosulphite by 10-15% 3,4,5. The parameters: Total dissolved solids 10ppm, (e) Novatic Yellow 4G (s/d) Vat Yellow 2
sodium borohydride in the dyeing bath may Total hardness 24ppm, P-alkalinity 5ppm, (f) Novatic Gold Orange 3G (s/d)
minimise the effect of atmospheric oxygen M-alkalinity 72ppm. Vat Orange 15

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 3. Method Table 2: Vat dyeing with Table 3: Washing fastness of
3.1 Pretreatment different reducing agent dyed samples
The fabric was given desizing, scouring and
mixtures S. Name Reducing Wash
bleaching as a pretreatment to make the fabric
fully absorbent and free from all natural and Dyes Vat dyes (S/D) No. of dye agent fastness
mixture rating of
added impurities. The chemical recipe and Shade %, M:L ratio 1% 2%, 1:30 1% shade
process parameters were as given in Table 1.
Temp. of dyeing 60°C 1 Vat Red Control 4-5
3.2 Reducing Agent Mixture pH of dyeing 12-13 10
The following reducing agent mixtures
NaOH conc. in dye 15 g/l A 4
were prepared for vatting and dyeing. The solution
reducing agent mixtures were designated as B 4-5
A, B, C and D. The ratio of chemicals was Reducing agent 15 g/l
C 3-4
concentration
(Sodium hydrosulphite : Sodium bisulphite : (mixture) in dye D 4-5
Sodium sulphite): solution
Control 10:0:0 2 Vat Control 4-5
H2O2conc. in 4.0 ml/l Brown
A 6:4:0 oxidation (50 vol) 26
B 6:0:4
C 6:2:2 Soaping temperature 80°C
(with nonionic A 4
D 7:3:0 soap and sodium
carbonate) B 4
3.3 Vatting C 3-4
Neutralisation (acetic 3.0 ml/l
The vatting (solubilisation) process of the dyes acid) D 4
was done with the help of different reducing
agent mixture along with sodium hydroxide agent, as a control sample. The strength was 3 Vat Control 4-5
flakes. Initially 1g dye powder was pasted with measured on a computer colour matching Black
27
2ml of TRO (turkey red oil) and, after making system (based on spectral reflectance of the
a smooth paste, 1g of reducing agent mixture object (eg. HunterLab, CIE system). A 4
in dissolved form and 1g of sodium hydroxide
B 4-5
in dissolved form were added. The vatting was 3.6 Wash Fastness
done at a temperature of 40°C for a period of The washing fastness of the samples dyed C 3-4
30 min. Dye solution was spotted on to a white with different reducing agent mixtures in a 1% D 4
tile; no particle appearance indicates complete shade was measured by the ISO3 method.
solubilisation of dye particles. The dye solution 4 Vat Control 4-5
Green 1
was filtered and then taken for dyeing. 3.7 pH Measurement
The pH of the different solutions was A 4
3.4 Dyeing measured by digital pH meter. The pH meter
B 4-5
The vatted dye solution was added as per was standardised by dipping the electrode
shade % requirement in a solution of sodium of the pH meter in a solution of pH 7.0 and C 3-4
hydroxide (15 g/l) and different reducing buffer solution of pH 4.0 and 9.2.
D 4-5
agent mixture (15 g/l) and dyeing was
performed at a temperature of 60°C for 60 4. Results and Discussion 5 Vat Control 4-5
Yellow 2
min. During the dyeing the quantity of alkali The cost of different reducing agent
and reducing agent was tested with phenol- mixtures was calculated by taking the cost A 4
phthalein paper and vat yellow paper. After of 1 kg of reducing agent. The costs of
B 4-5
dyeing, thorough washing treatment was individual chemicals were (approx.): Sodium
given to remove residual dye solution from hydrosulphite 120 Rs/kg, Sodium bisulphite C 4
the surface and then the sample was oxidised 35 Rs/kg, Sodium sulphite 33 Rs/kg. The
D 4-5
with hydrogen peroxide solution. Finally, a costs of different reducing agent mixtures
soaping treatment was given to improve were calculated as given below: 6 Vat Control 4-5
Orange
the fastness properties and to remove any Control - 120 Rs/kg, A - 86 Rs/kg, B - 85.2
15
deactivated dye molecules. Rs/kg, C - 85.60 Rs/kg, D - 82.5 Rs/kg
A 4
3.5 Colour Measurement 4.1. Vat Red 10
The relative colour strength of the samples From Fig. 1, it is observed that in 1% and 2% B 4
dyed with reducing agent mixtures A, B, C and shades nearly all the reducing agent mixtures
C 4
D was measured by taking a sample dyed with gave higher colour values than the control
sodium hydrosulphite, as a single reducing sample. In the case of mixture D with 2% D 4

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 Research: Vat Dyeing

Table 4: pH of different reducing agent mixtures shade, colour value was slightly lower than for
the control sample and B had the highest colour
Name of pH of solution containing 15 g/l of
S. No. reducing agent pH of 1% solution reducing agent mixture and 15 g/l of value among the all reducing agent mixtures.
mixture sodium hydroxide Fig. 2 shows that the L a b values of colour
with mixtures A and D were very near to the
1 Control 5.65 13.95
control sample. So the tonal differences among
2 A 4.99 13.88 the samples dyed with reducing agent mixtures
3 B 7.34 13.99 A and D and the control sample are tolerable.

4 C 6.55 13.89 4.2. Vat Brown 26

5 D 5.32 13.95 From Fig. 3, it is observed that the colour value
of the sample dyed with mixture D is equal to
Sodium bisul-
6 4.42 13.88 the control sample. Other mixtures gave lower
phite
colour values than the control. In Fig 4, the L a b
7 Sodium sulphite 10.02 13.99 value of the sample

Fig. 1: Vat Red 10 colour strength vs reducing agent composition Fig. 2: Vat Red 10 Lab values vs reducing agent concentration

Fig. 3: Vat Brown 26 colour strength vs reducing agent composition Fig. 4: Vat Brown 26 Lab values vs reducing agent concentration

Fig. 5: Vat Black 26 colour strength vs reducing agent composition Fig. 6: Vat Black 26 Lab values vs reducing agent concentration

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 dyed with reducing agent mixture D is very near the control sample. In Fig. 8 the a and b values matched the control.
to the control sample. So mixture D gave equal of the samples dyed with different mixtures
colour value and less tonal difference from the are negative but L values are positive. Samples 4.6. Vat Orange 15
control sample than the other mixtures. dyed with mixtures C and D had much less From Fig. 11, it can be seen that in both the
tonal difference from the control, compared to 1% and 2% shades, reducing agent mixture B
4.3. Vat Black 26 other reducing agent mixtures. gave higher colour strength than the control
From Fig. 5, it can be seen that the colour sample; the remaining mixtures A, C and
strength (in case of both 1% and 2%) of 4.5. Vat Yellow 2 D had equal colour strength to the control
samples dyed with reducing agent mixtures C In Fig. 9, it is observed that with 1% shade sample. In Fig. 12, the L a b values are positive
and D is higher than that of the control sample. reducing agent mixture A gave better colour in all mixtures. Again, mixtures B and D had
Other reducing agent mixtures had lower colour strength than the control sample. However, less tonal difference from the control sample.
strength. In Fig 6, the L a b values of samples with 2% shade mixtures A and B gave better The reducing agent mixtures B and D gave
dyed with mixtures C and D are comparable colour strength, while the remainder showed better or equal colour value with respect to the
to the control sample. So the reducing agent a declining trend in colour strength. Mixture control sample.
mixtures C and D gave equal or better colour D gave a lower colour strength (approx. To further explain the functioning of reducing
strength with minimal tonal difference from the 12% lower) than the control sample in both agents in vat dyeing, we have to examine the
control sample, compared to other mixtures. 1% and 2% shades. In Fig. 10, the L and b vatting process. Vat dye reduction is a reversible
values are positive and a values are negative. process. The reduction of the keto group in
4.4. Vat Green 1 Reducing agent mixtures B and D showed the vat dye molecule generally takes place
In Fig. 7, it is observed that again reducing much less tonal difference from the control in acidic pH (leuco vat acid) and sodium salt
agent mixtures C and D gave better colour value sample, compared to other reducing agent formation takes place in basic pH. In actual
than the control sample in both 1% and 2% mixtures. Here, although B and D gave practice, during vatting treatment after making
shades. However, with 1% shade all reducing slightly lower colour values than the control, the paste of the dye, simultaneous addition of
agent mixtures gave better colour values than the hue value and chroma of the samples sodium hydroxide and sodium hydrosulphite is

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 Research: Vat Dyeing

Fig. 7: Vat Green 1 colour strength vs reducing agent composition Fig. 8: Vat Green 1 Lab values vs reducing agent concentration

Fig. 9: Vat Yellow 2 colour strength vs reducing agent composition Fig. 10: Vat Yellow 2 Lab values vs reducing agent concentration

Fig. 11: Vat Orange 15 colour strength vs reducing agent composition Fig. 12: Vat Orange 15 Lab values vs reducing agent concentration

done. Sodium hydroxide produces high alkaline bisulphite. So the proper proportion of these
pH but simultaneously, due to decomposition chemicals in the reducing agent mixture can References
of sodium hydrosulphite, sodium bisulphite produce good colour value in dyeing because of
is produced. This is an acidic product and adequate pH and sufficient reducing conditions. 1. 1. H. Musshoff, J. Soc. Dyers Col., 73,
decreases the effective pH of the vatting bath. 543 (1957)
At sufficiently high alkaline pH (approx. 11-12) 5. Conclusions 2. M.R. Fox, J. Soc. Dyers Col., 65, 508
(1949)
mono- and di-sodium salt formation of vat dye In the above discussion, the responses of
3. M. Baumgarte and U. Keuser, Melliand
molecules takes place and the vat dye becomes different vat dyes in terms of colour value,
Textilber, 47, 286 (1966)
thoroughly soluble. In the reducing agent when we use mixtures of reducing agent in
4. W.F. Harrison and A.A. Hinckley,
mixture, the presence of sodium bisulphite and vatting and dyeing, is good with reducing American Dyestuff Reporter, 52, 237
sodium sulphite increases the pH of the bath agent mixture D. Reducing agent mixture (1963)
(from Table 4). Besides that, sodium bisulphite D gave better or equal colour value, with 5. D. Vivilecchia & D. Hydritex, American
and sodium sulphite also maintain reducing minimum tonal variation, compared to the Dyestuff Reporter, 55, 510 (1966)
conditions because of their reducing nature. In control sample. The cost of dyeing when 6. G.P. Nair and R.C. Shah, Textile
the reducing agent mixture the lesser quantity we use a mixture reducing agent also is also Research Journal, 40, 303 (1970)
of sodium hydrosulphite produces less sodium reduced. ID

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 Research: Crease Resistance

Non-Formaldehyde Crease
Resistance Finishing on Tencel
with Poly Maleic Acid
By Aravin Prince Periyasamy, DKTE’S Textile Engineering
Institute, Ichalkaranji, India

Introduction Table 1: Fabric properties

Non-formaldehyde crease-resistant and
DP finishing has been the need of the hour, Construction EPI PPI GSM Warp Density [Ne] Weft Density [Ne]
as there is a ban for formaldehyde-based 3/1 Twill 50 68 120 60 60
finishes in many countries1,2, and for Indian
domestic purpose too. Poly carboxylic acids
(PCA) are achieving notability as a new class of
Table 3: Testing Standards for treated sample
formaldehyde-free, eco-friendly cross-linking Property Standards Instrument used
agents2,3. Therefore PCAs are considered to be
Crease recovery angle AATCC TM 66:2008 Eureka Crease recovery angle tester
safe alternatives to the formaldehyde-based
cross linking resins. Tensile strength ASTM D5034:2009 Instron Tensile strength tester
Polycarboxylic acids react with hydroxyl Thwing Albert Elmendorf tear strength
Tearing strength ISO 13937-1:2000
groups of cellulose to form ‘ester cross links’, Tester
connecting adjacent cellulose chains in a
Abrasion resistance ISO 12945-2:1998 SDL Martindale tester
three-dimensional network inside the cellulosic
fibres4,5,6. It has been reported in the literature Whiteness index AATCC TM 110:2005 X- Rite Spectrophotometer
that there is a high degree of Crease Resistance,
as well as smooth drying properties, in Tencel
Table 2: Padding conditions
fabrics treated with Polycarboxylic acids having
three or more carboxyl groups7, in the presence Chemicals & Processes Parameters
of alkali metal salts, particularly sodium DMDHEU concentration % 17
hypophosphite8,9. Polycarboxylic acids react
with cellulose via an anhydride mechanism. PMA concentrations % [owf] 2, 4,6, 8, 10 & 12
In the presence of heat and catalyst, two Sodium hypophosphite % 10
carboxylic groups form a five-membered
Padding Expression % 85
anhydride ring and release one molecule of
water. The cyclic anhydride reacts with cellulose Drying temperature ºC and Time 80 – 5 min
to form an ester and regenerate one carboxylic Curing temperature ºC and time 150 – 5 min
acid group2,9.
adopted was as follows: The fabric was padded according to TS EN ISO 139, before testing.
2. Experimental in different concentrations of PMA (2, 4, 6, 8, Crease-recovery angle, tensile strength, tearing
2.1 Materials and Methods 10 & 12% (w/w)), NaH2PO2 5 %, followed by strength and abrasion resistance of the PMA
Poly Maleic Acid (PMA) is applied to woven squeezing to a wet pick-up of ca. 100%. The treated fabrics were measured according to
fabric (ring spun warp and weft) to produce a fabric sample was then dried at 80°C for 5 respective standards, as given in Table 3. The
Crease Resistant finishes. For this present work, min and cured at 150°C for 6 min. It was then abrasion resistance was determined by end
PMA and Sodium Hypophosphate were used in washed several times with cold water and dried point founds per number of cycles.
laboratory grade. Tables 1 and 2 give the fabric in ambient conditions. The above test results will help to compare
properties and padding recipe respectively. The the samples effectively and to arrive at a
fabric used in this study was a desized, scoured 2.2 Test Methods conclusion. In all tests, five fabric specimens
and bleached Tencel. Samples were conditioned for 8 hours were evaluated and the average value for each
After bleaching process, the procedure at 20±2°C and 65±4% relative humidity, test is given in the results and discussion10-14.

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 Research: Crease Resistance

3. Results and Discussion 3.4 Tearing Strength strength loss is negligible. As the concentration
3.1 Properties of DMDHEU Treated Fabric Based on the result, resin-treatment has a increases the strength loss increases, but not to
For estimating the efficiency of Poly Maleic negative impact on tearing strength. Resin- a great extent. Even for 12% concentration, the
Acid as a cross-linking agent, a comparative treated fabric loses around 30-35% of its strength loss only 15 %.
study should be made with samples made original strength before treatment, whereas
from standard cross-linking agents. For that strength loss in the case of PMA-treated 3.5 Abrasion Resistance
purpose a resin-based cross-linking agent was samples is significantly lower than for resin- The results indicate the abrasion resistance of
selected. Control samples were prepared using treated samples. The average tensile strength the both treatments. Generally the end point
DMDHEU resin. Tencel fabric samples were of PMA-treated samples is exhibited in the table found per rubs is of a higher value for PMA
treated with 17% DMDHEU resin along with and figure. For 2% concentration of acid, the treatments because PMA reduces the acidity of
other auxiliaries required.
Table 4: Properties of DMDHEU treated fabric
3.2 Crease Recovery Angle
Mean tensile Mean abrasion
The results indicate that the PMA treated Mean tearing
CRA strength resistance
fabric shows a greater Crease Resistance Angle strength [N]
Sample [Lbs] [end point found
than DMDHEU treated fabric. Because PMA
Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft per rubs]
molecules have their carboxyl groups linked to Total
way way way way way way
adjacent carbons of their molecular backbone
they are capable of forming a five member Untreated 90 81 171 96 82 55 46 21600
cyclic anhydride, being more effective for DMDHEU
138 124 264 69 60 41 36 17300
esterifying cellulose than those polycarboxylic treated
acids having their carboxyl groups linked to their
alternate carbons
Table 5: Crease Resistant Angle for PMA treated sample
3.3 Tensile Strength PMA concentration [%] Mean warp CRA° Mean weft CRA° Total CRA°
The effect of PMA concentration on tensile
Untreated 90 81 171
strength was investigated. Conventional
resin treatment has a negative impact on 2 104 98 202
tensile strength. Resin-treated fabric loses 4 116 109 225
around 30- 40% of its original strength before
6 128 114 242
treatment, whereas strength loss in the case
of PMA-treated samples is significantly lower 8 139 122 261
than in resin-treated sample. The use of PMA
10 151 135 286
reduces the acidity of the polymerisation
mixture and, hence, reduces the loss of fabric 12 144 132 276
strength caused by acid degradation as the
polymerisation time increases.
The average tensile strength of PMA-treated
Table 6: Tensile Strength by PMA Concentration
samples is exhibited in the table and figure. Mean tensile strength in Weft
Mean tensile strength in Warp way[Lbs]
For 2% concentration of acid, the strength loss way [Lbs]
is negligible. As the concentration increases PMA Concentration [%] PMA Concentration [%]
Un Un
the strength loss increases, but not to a great treated treated
2 4 6 8 10 12 2 4 6 8 10 12
extent; even for 12% concentration, the
strength loss only 18%. 96 90 88 84 81 83 79 82 79 78 74 75 70 67

Fig.1: Tensile strength of DMDHEU and PMA treated samples Fig. 2: Tearing strength of DMDHEU and PMA treated samples

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 the polymerisation mixture and, hence, reduces 4. Conclusions following advantages were observed:
the loss of fabric-strength properties. The mean This paper reports the crease-resistant • No formal dehyde releases
results are given in the respective tables. finishing of Tencel fabrics with PMA. The • Flame retardancy effect
results showed that PMA is a very effective • Environmentally friendly
3.6 Whiteness reagent for the crease-resistant finishing
Table 9 shows the variation of whiteness index of Tencel fabrics. The PMA treatments of
with factors affecting the PMA treatment and the Tencel fabric significantly improve its
DMDHEU treatment. As per the result shown, crease-recovery angle, tensile strength, References
up to 6% PMA will not affect the whiteness of tearing strength and abrasion resistance
the fabric, in comparison to DMDHEU, which, compared with DMDHEU-treated Tencel 1. Andrews, BAK, Nonformaldehyde DP
on the contrary, will reduce the Whiteness fabric. Optimised finishing variables were finishing of cotton with maleic and
index when the concentration is increased. given and up to 286° of CRA was obtained, citric Acid, Tex Chem Color: 1990; 22:
with 82%, 85% 63-67.
tensile strength 2. Andrews, BAK, Trask-Morrell BJ, Esteri-
and tearing fication crosslinking finishing of cotton
fabric with tricarboxylic acids, American
strength retention
Dyest. Rep: 1991; 80: 26-31.
reserved respec-
3. Choi, HM, Nonformaldehyde Polymeri-
tively. As the
zation-Crosslinking treatment of cotton
concentration PMA fabrics for improved strength retention,
increased above Textile Res J: 1992; 62: 614- 618.
10%, the crease- 4. Udomkichdecha, W, Acrylic and maleic
recovery angle acids in Nonformaldehyde durable
degree decreased. press finishing of cotton fabric, Textile
By using this PMA Res J: 2003; May: 73, 5:401-406.
treatment, the 5. Yang, CQ, Xu, L, Li, S, Nonformal-
Fig. 3: Abrasion resistance of DMDHEU and PMA treated samples
dehyde Durable Press Finishing of
cotton fabrics by Combining Polymers
of Maleic Acid with Citric Acid, Textile
Table 7: Tearing Strength by PMA Concentration Res. J: 1998; 68: 457-464.
Mean tearing strength Weft 6. Welch, CM, Tetracarboxylic Acids as
Mean tearing strength Warp way [N]
way [N] Formaldehyde-Free Durable Press
Finishing Agents, Part I: Catalysts,
Un PMA Concentration [%] Un PMA Concentration [%]
Additives and Durability Studies, Textile
treated 2 4 6 8 10 12 treated 2 4 6 8 10 12 Res J: 1988; 58: 480-486.
7. Welch, CM, Formaldehyde-Free DP
55 54 53 51 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 40 39
Finishing with Polycarboxylic Acids,
American Dyest. Rep: 1994; 83: 19-26.
Table 8: Abrasion Resistance by PMA Concentration 8. Welch, CM, Andrews, BAK, Ester
Crosslinks: A Route to High
Mean abrasion resistance in rubs
Performance Non-formaldehyde
PMA concentration [%] Finishing of cotton, Textile Chem Color:
Un treated 1989; 13-17.
2 4 6 8 10 12
9. Welch, CM, Peters, JG, Mixed Polycar-
21600 20800 20200 19400 18700 18100 17600 boxylic Acids and Mixed Catalyst in
Formaldehyde-Free Durable Press
Finishing, Textile Chem Color: 1997; 29:
Table 9: Whiteness index on DMDHEU and PMA
22-27.
Concentration 10. AATCC Test Method 66-2008,
PMA Concentration [%] Whiteness index Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics:
Recovery Angle Method.
Untreated 96 11. ASTM Standard test method D
DMDHEU treated 73 5034-2009, Determination tensile
strength of fabric.
2 94 12. ISO Standard test method ISO
13937-1:2000, Determination tearing
4 92.6
strength of fabric.
6 90 13. ISO Standard test method ISO
12945-2:1998, Determination abrasion
8 87
resistance of fabric
10 83 14. AATCC Test Method 110:2005,
Determination of Whiteness Index.
12 79

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 Research: Wastewater

Influence of Different Metal

Electrodes on Electrocoagulation
Process for Treatment of Disperse
and Reactive Dye Wastewater
By Neeraj Shrivastava, Jayant Udakhe and Smita Honade,
Wool Research Association, Thane, India

Introduction
Colour plays an important role in the fashion Abstract
and textile business. Our ever-growing fashion Electrocoagulation is an electrochemical dissolution technique in which coagulating agents
industry is conceiving new colours and are generated in situ and used for treating wastewater. It could also be an effective tool
designs, thereby presenting stern challenges for treatment of colour from textile and dye wastewaters with high removal efficiency and
not only for our dyers worldwide to achieve it rapidly removes the chromophores and by-products of dye solutions. Different metal
electrode configurations were operated under galvanostatic mode to treat dye wastewater.
them but also for our society in terms of
Electrocoagulation processes were found to give excellent dye removal efficiency. Aluminium
health, safety and environmental concerns. electrodes gave better removal efficiency in C.I. Disperse Blue 79 containing wastewater,
In textile processing, the percentage of whereas iron electrodes gave better removal efficiency in reactive dye Drimarene Navy HF-GN
dye that remains unfixed to the fibre during containing wastewater. A combination electrodes (ie. one iron and one aluminium electrode
the dyeing process and finds its way into as anodes and one iron and one aluminium electrode as cathodes) gave high colour removal
efficiency for both wastewaters containing reactive and disperse dye, and hence are found to
the effluent ranges from 5-50%1. This dyeing
have potential to be used in commercial electrocoagulation processes dealing with different
effluent affects the aesthetics of water and kinds of dye effluent.
also poses serious threat to aquatic life Keywords: Electrocoagulation, Dyes, Iron electrodes, Aluminium electrodes, DC current,
due to its interference with photosynthesis Wastewater
by reducing the transparency of water and
also by the presence of hazardous and toxic
compounds, especially azo dyes, salts, etc, effective towards disperse and vat dyes7. wastewater, in which sacrificial metal
which must be removed before discharging. Our pursuit for sustainability is leading electrodes (Al or Fe) release cations and
Several conventional methods, such us to various developments in wastewater form various metal species (monomeric
as chemical coagulation and flocculation, treatment technology. Electrocoagulation and polymeric) into solution when a current
biological treatment and tertiary treatments [EC] is an emerging technology and is a is applied across these electrodes. These
like adsorption, oxidation and filtration combination of three foundation technologies metal species can interact with the pollutant
are used for colour removal but each of electrochemistry, coagulation, and in different ways; for example, the metallic
suffers from its own limitations2. Chemical flotation8. Electrocoagulation is different ionic monomeric species can neutralise the
coagulation leads to a large amount of sludge from the conventional chemical coagulation charge of the pollutants by adsorption on
formation3, whereas micro-organisms used process as, in the EC process, coagulating their surfaces (or by binding to their ionised
in biological treatments are vulnerable to agents are generated in situ; and it offers groups) thus reducing the electrostatic
some commercial dyes. Tertiary treatments wide advantages, such as no chemical use, interparticle repulsion to the extent that the
are often expensive and have operational less and stable sludge formation, less salinity Van der Waals attraction predominates; the
problems such as regeneration and fouling of of treated water and effectiveness in a wider metallic ionic polymeric species can bind to
adsorbents4, clogging of membrane pores5 pH range (4-9). Also, EC can be applied in several particles (or molecules) of pollutant
and generation of sludge6. Ozone treatment both batch and continuous processes. at a time; and/or the pollutants can be
gives satisfactory results towards removal of Electrocoagulation is an electro- enmeshed into growing metallic hydroxide
direct, acid and cationic dyes but is not very chemical dissolution technique for treating precipitates, or can be adsorbed on to their

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 surfaces9. EC also liberates hydrogen gas at Precipitation: 2. Experimental
the cathode, which attracts the flocculated DYE + Alm ➞ [DYE Alm] (s) 2.1. Materials
particles and floats the flocculated pollutants DYE + Alp ➞ [DYE Alp] (s) Dye wastewaters were prepared from
to the surface through natural buoyancy. commercially available disperse and reactive
Thus electrocoagulation can remove a wide Adsorption: dyes. For all dye wastewaters trials, the
range of dissolved and colloidal contam- DYE + Al (OH)3 (S) ➞ Al(OH)3 (S) (DYE) dye concentration was maintained at 250
inants from wastewater. [DYE ALP](S ) + Al (OH)3 (S) ➞ [Al(OH)3DYEAlP](S) mg/l. Disperse dye wastewater contained
In electrocoagulation, metals producing where m = monomeric dye C.I. Disperse Blue 79 and Reactive
trivalent ions such as aluminium and p = polymeric dye wastewater contained Drimarene Navy
iron are preferred as anodes, as trivalent HF-GN. Sodium Chloride was added to the
ions have a higher ability to adsorb on to Electrocoagulation technology is also dye wastewater to increase the conductivity
particles in the water than bivalent ions considered to be potentially an effective to around 2000 µS/cm. Initial pH of dye
because they have a higher charge density. tool for treatment of colour from textile wastewater prepared was adjusted to neutral
The metal ions generated hydrolyse in wastewaters with high removal efficiency (7.0 ± 0.2) using sodium carbonate and
the electrocoagulator to produce metal and it rapidly removes the chromophores acetic acid.
hydroxide ions and neutral M(OH)3. The and by-products of dye solutions 16.
low solubility of the neutral M(OH)3, mainly The removal efficiency is found to be 2.2. Apparatus and Instruments
at pH values in the range of 6.0–7.0, dependent on the initial pH, the dye All the electrocoagulation experiments were
promotes the generation of sweep flocs concentration, the applied current density, conducted in a 5L borosil-make glass beaker.
inside the treated waste and the removal and the electrolysis time in the batch There were four electrodes used in each
of the pollutants by their enmeshment into model 9. The chemical composition of the configuration. All the electrodes were made
these flocs 10. aqueous solution, solution temperature, from plates with dimensions of 120mm x
type of salt used to raise conductivity, 100mm x 6mm. There were three different
Fe Electrode Reaction presence of chloride, electrode gap, electrodes configurations used, ie. 1. Iron
In the EC process involving iron electrodes, passivation of the anode, and water flow electrodes (two iron electrodes as anodes
two mechanisms have been proposed to rate also have an impact on the removal and two iron electrodes as cathodes); 2.
describe the formation of H2(g) and OH- at the efficiency and economic durability of a Aluminium electrodes (two aluminium
cathode and Fe2+/Fe3+ ions and H+(aq) at the given EC application 17. electrodes as anodes and two aluminium
anode11. The electrocoagulation process has not electrodes as cathodes); and 3. Combination
been commercially successful due to the electrodes (one iron and one aluminium
Mechanism 1 issue of electrode reliability and the lack electrode as anodes and one iron and one
In anode: 4Fe(s)➞ 4Fe2+(aq) + 8e- of a systematic approach to electroco- aluminium electrode as cathodes).
In cathode: 8H+(aq) + 8e-➞ 4H2 (g) agulation reactor design and operation 8. All the cathodes and anodes were in
In solution: 4Fe2+(aq) + 10H2O (l) + O2 (g) ➞ However, this process is emerging and parallel connection with the spacing between
4Fe(OH)3 + 8H+(aq) offers a lot of potential, especially for electrodes maintained at 5mm. A spacing of
decentralised water-treatment facilities. 25mm was maintained between bottom of
Mechanism 2 Both aluminium and iron, when used glass beaker and the electrodes in order to
In anode: Fe(s) ➞ Fe2+(aq) + 2e- as anodes, offer advantages as well as allow magnetic stirring of dye wastewater to
In cathode: 2H2O (l) + 2e- ➞ H2 (g) + 2OH-(aq) limitations over each other. Wastewater take place. The electrodes were connected
In solution: Fe2+(aq) + 2OH-(aq) ➞ Fe(OH)2 (s) treated with iron electrodes tends to to a digital DC power supply (Gwinstek
develop a brown colour due to formation PSW 80-27; 80 V, 27 A) and all experiments
Al Electrode Reaction of ferric hydroxide, which often affects the were operated in galvanostatic mode. The
In the EC process involving aluminium aesthetics of water, and iron has higher electrodes were connected as monopolar
electrodes, the following reactions occur at electrode consumption than aluminium electrodes in parallel connection, ie. both
different electrodes and in solution: during electrocoagulation process 18. anodes connected to the negative terminal
Aluminium, on the other hand, has high and both cathodes connected to the positive
In anode: Al ➞ Al3+ +3e− coagulation efficiency but consumes more terminal of the DC power supply. This
In cathode: 2H2O + 2e−➞ H2 +2OH− power than iron electrodes during the electrode mode connection was selected
In solution: Al3+ +H2O ➞ Al(OH)2++H+ electrocoagulation process 18. as it offers the most cost-effective solution
Al(OH)2+ +H2O ➞ Al(OH)2++ H+ In this paper, we have investigated the in terms of process economy, as studied by
Al(OH)2+ +H2O ➞ Al(OH)3 +H+ efficiency of different electrode materials Kobya et al10.
and their combination in the removal A UV-vis spectrophotometer (GBC UV/
There are various other species that of disperse and reactive dyes from VIS 918) was used to measure dye concen-
dimeric, trimeric and polynuclear hydrolysis synthesised dye wastewater. We attempt tration. pH and conductivity were measured
products of Al can also form12,13. These to see whether a combination of iron and by research-grade meter (Hanna HI4522,
Al(OH)3 flocs capture the dye molecules aluminium electrodes can be a better USA) and Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD)
present in the solution by the following alternative to iron or aluminium electrodes, was measured using Lovibond COD Vario MD
reaction mechanism14,9. which are currently used individually. 200 instrument. Turbidity of dye wastewater

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 Research: Wastewater

Table 1: Removal of disperse dyes with different electrode configuration under different current
(A) applied:
Type of Electrode Current (A) Voltage (V) Time (mins) %Red. Turbidity %Red. Colour %COD Removal

Al Electrodes 4 3.9 10 99.92 99.82 56.18

Al Electrodes 8 6.7 6.5 99.94 99.85 57.09

Fe Electrodes 4 3.6 10 99.59 99.44 51.27

Fe Electrodes 8 6.5 7.5 99.79 99.50 52.73

Al-Fe Electrodes 4 3.4 10 99.81 99.79 55.45

Al-Fe Electrodes 8 6 8 99.81 99.82 56.00

was measured by turbidity meter (Hanna HI

88713, USA) and reported in Nephelometric
Turbidity Units (NTU).

2.3. Methods
All the electrodes were washed before each
trial in a freshly prepared solution containing
300 cm3 HCl solution (35%) and 600 cm3 of
hexamethylenetetramine aqueous solution
(2.80%) for 5 min, to remove all impurities
from the electrode surfaces, and further with
distilled water10. A magnetic stirring rate of
about 350rpm was maintained throughout
the experimental trial. In each trial, the dye
wastewater volume used was 3.5L and the
total time duration of the trial was 10 mins
unless noted otherwise. The DC power supply
provided the desired constant current (4A and
8A) to the electrodes by varying the voltage,
which was recorded. All experiments were
carried out at room temperature (30°C ± 2°C).
Conductivity of solution plays an important
role in electrolytic processes and high
conductivity can help achieve high current at
lower voltages to keep power consumption
low. Therefore sodium chloride was added
to the dye wastewater to increase the
conductivity to around 2000 µS/cm. pH
was kept initially at neutral for all trials, as
high colour removal efficiency is reported at
neutral media15 and also the size of hydrogen
bubbles liberated at cathodes is minimum the COD was measured by photometric solubility at higher temperatures20; thus,
around neutral pH and thus is helpful in the method using Lovibond COD Vario MD 200 compared to soluble dyes, it is relatively easy to
flotation process19. instrument. separate disperse dyes from dye wastewater.
Dye removal was estimated by Aluminium electrodes offered better and faster
measurement of absorbance of initial and 3. Results & Discussion colour removal than iron and mixed electrodes.
final dye wastewater after each trial in the 3.1. Removal of disperse dyes Dye wastewater treated with iron electrodes
UV-vis spectrophotometer. Absorbance of shown a slight brown tint due to formation of
dye solution was measured at wavelength of 3.1.1. Effect of Electrode Configuration on ferric hydroxides21, although later most of it had
maximum absorbance (λmax). Removal of Disperse Dyes settled down along with the sludge. Similarly
Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) was All three electrode configurations showed Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) removal was
tested using standard test method ISO colour removal efficiency in excess of 99%, as also higher in the case of aluminium electrodes
15705:2002, also called the sealed tube shown in Table 1. Disperse dyes are non-ionic and a maximum of 57% was achieved at 8A
method. The samples were first digested dyes that are relatively insoluble in water at current. Turbidity also came down from 1315
(oxidised) at 150°C for 2 hrs and then room temperature and have only limited NTU in initial disperse dye wastewater to nearly

42 INTERNATIONAL DYER

P 40-44 Wastewater.indd 42 18/11/2013 17:01

 Table 2: Removal of reactive dyes with different electrode configuration under different current
(A) applied:
Type of Electrode Current (A) Voltage (V) Time (mins) %Red. Colour %COD Removal %COD Removal

Al Electrodes 4 4.05 15 37.84 34.43 56.18

Al Electrodes 8 6.85 15 43.69 35.90 57.09

Fe Electrodes 4 3.56 15 98.30 56.78 51.27

Fe Electrodes 8 6.17 10 99.53 61.54 52.73

Al-Fe Electrodes 4 3.59 15 95.27 49.08 55.45

Al-Fe Electrodes 8 6.16 15 97.60 52.75 56.00

1-5 NTU in treated wastewater in all electrode

configurations. A combination of electrodes
also was able to reduce maximum colour, high
chemical oxygen demand and high turbidity at
a lesser voltage requirement than aluminium
electrodes. No brown tint of iron oxide was
within visual observable range in combination-
electrode-treated wastewater.

3.1.2. Effect of Current on Removal of

Disperse Dye
The coagulation rate significantly increased
with an increase in current and complete
separation of dye molecules from dye
wastewater took place in around 6-8 min. at
8A, compared to 12-15 min. at 4A, in all three
electrode configurations. Current is the most
crucial parameter for the electrocoagulation
technique and hence an increase in current
leads to an increase in the rate of release of
ions and to a higher rate of hydrogen bubble
formation22.

3.2 Removal of reactive dyes

3.2.1. Effect of Electrode Configuration on

Removal of Reactive Dyes
It was clearly observed that iron electrodes
are more effective than aluminium electrodes
for removal of reactive dyes from reactive
dye wastewater. With iron electrodes, colour
removal efficiency of 98.3% and 99.5%, 3.2.2. Effect of Current on Removal of electrodes and combination electrodes, with
at 4A and 8A respectively, was achieved, Reactive Dyes colour-removal efficiency increased from
whereas with aluminium, maximum colour All the results showed that there is an increase 37.8% to 43.7% and 95.3% to 97.6% respec-
removal achieved was 43.7% at 8A current. in colour removal efficiency and a significant tively at higher current. Similar results were
However, with combination electrodes, ie. increase in the rate of coagulation with an also obtained for reduction in chemical oxygen
two Al and two Fe, colour removal was 97.6% increase in current. With iron electrodes, the demand (COD) of dye wastewater, as shown
at 8A current. Similarly, iron electrodes led to colour-removal efficiency increased from in the Table 2. Increase in current leads to
higher reduction in chemical oxygen demand 98.3% to 99.5% when current was increased higher rate of release of metal ions and hence
of dye wastewater compared to the other from 4A to 8A. This change was observed higher rate of coagulation. Another reason for
two configurations, ie. aluminium electrodes in only 10 min. in the case of 8A current, the high rate of separation of reactive dyes
and combination electrodes (Table 2). A compared to 15 min. with 4A current. Beyond from dye wastewater at high current is the
maximum of 61.5% reduction in chemical this point, the removal of colour did not higher production of hydrogen bubbles, which
oxygen demand (COD) was possible with iron significantly change over time. entrap the formed microflocs and help in
electrodes at 8A current. Similar results were obtained with aluminium flotation, thus leading to effective flocculation.

ISSUE 8 2013 43

P 40-44 Wastewater.indd 43 18/11/2013 17:01

 Research: Wastewater

3.2.3. Effect on pH of Dye Wastewater

References
An increase in pH was observed from neutral
(7.0 ± 0.2) to (8.4± 0.4) during electroco- 1. Christie RM, Environmental aspects of textile dyeing, Woodhead Publishing Limited,
agulation trials. It can be explained by the fact 2007 191.
that electrocoagulation process produces 2. O’Neill C, Hawkes FR, Hawkes DL, Lourenco ND, Pinheiro HM, Delee W, Colour
hydroxides, ie. Al(OH)3 or Fe(OH)3 in solution, in textile effluents—sources, measurement, discharge consents and simulation: a
which lead to increase in pH23. review, J. Chem. Technol. Biotechnol. 74 (1999) 1009–1018.
3. Gao P, Chen X, Shen F, Chen G, Removal of chromium(VI) from wastewater by
3.2.4. Effect of Electrode Configurations combined electrocoagulation–electroflotation without a filter, Sep. Purif. Technol.
on Voltage during Galvanostatic Mode of 43 (2005) 117–123.
Operation 4. Hopman R, Vander Hoek JPP, VanPaassen JM and Kruithof JC, The impact of NOM
The amount of voltage required to achieve presence on pesticide removal by adsorption: problems and solutions, Water
Supply, 1998 16(1–2) 497–501.
constant current varied with different electrode
5. Marmagne O and Coste C, Color removal from textile plant effluents, Amer
configurations. Aluminium required a higher
Dyestuff Rep, 1996 85(4) 15–20.
voltage to achieve the same current and
6. Christie RM, Environmental aspects of textile dyeing, Woodhead Publishing Limited,
hence led to higher power consumption. No
2007 149-175.
significant change in the conductivity of dye 7. Marmagne O, Coste C and Jacquart J-C (1996) Effluents decoloration. L’Industrie
wastewater was observed during the entire Textile 1278, 46-51.
trials and it was constant around 2080 µS/cm. 8. Holt PK, Barton GW, Mitchell CA, The future for electrocoagulation as a localized
water treatment technology, Chemosphere 59 (2005) 355–367.
4. Conclusion 9. Emamjomeh MM, Sivakumar M, Review of pollutants removed by electroco
Electrocoagulation processes are found to give agulation and electrocoagulation/flotation processes, Journal of Environmental
excellent dye removal efficiency, as high as Management 90 (2009) 1663–1679.
99.8% in the case of disperse dye and up to 10. Kobya M, Bayramoglu M, Eyvaz M, Techno-economical evaluation of electrocoagu
99.5% in the case of reactive dye investigated. lation for the textile wastewater using different electrode connections, Journal of
In the case of disperse dye, the turbidity Hazardous Materials 148 (2007) 311–318.
removal efficiency was 99.9% when aluminium 11. Un Umran Tezcan, Aytac E, Electrocoagulation in a packed bed reactor-complete
electrodes were used and clear treated water treatment of color and cod from real textile wastewater, Journal of Environmental
Management 123 (2013) 113-119.
was obtained. Electrocoagulation also gave
12. Mouedhena G, Feki M, De Petris Wery M, Ayedi HF, Behavior of aluminum
higher chemical oxygen demand removal
electrodes in electrocoagulation process, Journal of Hazardous Materials 150
efficiency, up to 57% in the case of disperse dye
(2008) 124–135.
with aluminium electrodes and up to 61.5% in
13. Richens DT, The Chemistry of Aqua Ions, Wiley, Chichester, 1997.
the case of reactive dye with iron electrodes.
14. Chithra K, Thilakavathi R, Arul Murugan A, Marimuthu C, Balasubramanian N,
Combination electrodes gave satisfactory Treatment of Textile Effluent Using Sacrificial Electrode, Modern Applied Science,
results, giving higher colour removal efficiency Vol. 2, No. 4, July 2008 38-43.
and lesser brown tint than iron electrodes 15. Sengil IA, Ozacar M, Omurlu B, Docolorization of C.I. Reactive Red 124 using the
in the case of disperse dyes. Similarly, they electrocoagulation method, Chem. Biochem. Eng. Q. 18 (2004) 391-401.
gave higher colour removal efficiency at lower 16. Wei MC, Wang KS, Huang CL, Chiang CW, Chang TJ, Lee SS, Chang SH,
voltage (ie. lower power) than aluminium Improvement of textile dye removal by electrocoagulation with low-cost steel wool
electrodes in the case of reactive dyes. Thus, cathode reactor, Chemical Engineering Journal 192 (2012) 37–44.
combination electrodes (ie. one iron and one 17. Kuokkanen V, Kuokkanen T, Rämö J, Lassi U, Recent Applications of Electrocoagu
aluminium electrode as anodes and one iron lation in Treatment of Water and Wastewater—A Review, Green and Sustainable
and one aluminium electrode as cathodes) Chemistry, 2013, 3, 89-121.
are found to have potential to be used in 18. Comninellis C, Chen G, Electrochemistry for the Environment, Springer New York,
2010, P.no. 248.
commercial electrocoagulation processes
19. Fukui Y, Yuu S, Removal of colloidal particles in electroflotation, AIChE J. 31 (1985)
dealing with different kinds of dye effluent
201-208.
and offer scope for further investigation
20. Broadbent A D, Basic Principles of Textile Coloration, Society of Dyers and
with other classes of dyes and validation in
Colourists, 2001.
pilot-scale trials.
21. Zongo I, Maiga AH, Wéthé J, Valentin G, Leclerc J, Paternotte G, Lapicque F,
Electrocoagulation for the treatment of textile wastewaters with Al or Fe electrodes:
Acknowledgement Compared variations of COD levels, turbidity and absorbance, Journal of Hazardous
This study is a part of an R&D project “To Materials 169 (2009) 70–76.
Develop an effective and eco-friendly electro- 22. Chafi M, Gourich B, Essadki AH, Vial C, Fabregat A, Comparison of electroco
flocculation technique to treat wastewater agulation using iron and aluminium electrodes with chemical coagulation for the
effluent with high FOGs (Fats, Oils & Grease), removal of a highly soluble acid dye, Desalination 281 (2011) 285–292.
metals and organic loads for the woollen 23. Canizares P, Jiménez C, Martínez F, Rodrigo MA, Sáez C, The pH as a key parameter
industry”, sponsored by the Ministry of Textiles, in the choice between coagulation and electrocoagulation for the treatment of
Government of India. ID wastewaters, Journal of Hazardous Materials 163 (2009) 158–164.

44 INTERNATIONAL DYER

P 40-44 Wastewater.indd 44 18/11/2013 17:01

 Machinery & Services

Luckytex Invests for

Value-Added
LONG-TIME MONFORTS user Luckytex
Luckytex deputy
(Thailand) Pcl has installed a Thermex 6500 managing director
hotflue system for continuous dyeing as Li Kin Shing

part of its strategy to move more strongly

into value-added production and fend off
competition from the high-volume, lower-cost
producers in other parts of Asia.
The company has also invested in a Monforts
MXL moist cross-linking process, and a Montex
6500 stenter.
All the equipment has been supplied through
the Thai representative, United Engineering
Overseas Ltd.
“Thailand is no longer a low-cost textile
producer,” said Luckytex deputy managing
director Li Kin Shing. “We must innovate.
Innovation means survival. This is why we have
been investing in this technology.”
Luckytex produces polyester and cotton
blended fabrics, 100% cotton fabrics,
100% polyester spun fabrics, polyester
filament, taffeta, and denim. The company
also produces industrial materials, such as
Monforts Thermex 6500 and Montex 6500 at Luckytex.
dipped cord for air-conditioner, brake and
power-steering hoses, and nylon airbag fabric. spun fabrics and transfers this to Mill No 2 Taffeta production totals about 4,600,000
Ranking within Thailand’s top 10 textiles for bleaching, dyeing and finishing. Mill No yards/month, of which the bulk is 62 cm
producers, Luckytex was established in 3 produces taffeta fabrics and transfers this wide: only slightly over 500,000 yd is 48
1960 as a venture between Hong Kong and produce to Mill No 2 for dyeing and finishing. cm width. Approximately 87% of production
Thai-Chinese interests. Its first mill was Apart from taffeta fabrics, products is for plain taffeta, with the remaining 13%
for spinning and weaving, and the second, of Mill No 3 also include denim and the being dobby and cam.
which opened shortly afterwards, was for industrial materials. Altogether, Asia forms the largest export
dyeing and finishing. A third mill was added The Monforts equipment is installed in Mill market with 85%, followed by Europe at 11%
in 1976. No 2, which employs about 700 people. The and America with 4%.
The company is now partially owned by first Monforts machine to be installed was a Installation of the three-chamber Thermex
Toray Industries of Japan, and is listed on Monfortex in 1992. A second Monfortex was 6500 continuous dyeing line will allow Luckytex
Thailand’s Stock Exchange. installed in 1997, and a third in 2003. All three to develop new high-density fabrics and special
Although Thailand was until recent times of these machines are still working today. finishes. And being a loop-dryer with a fabric
considered a low-cost producer, the country’s Mr Li, who is also manager of Mill No 2, says capacity of up to 51m, it will ensure drying
labour costs have been steadily rising. It also that the company is manufacturing for both the times of only a few minutes for knitted fabrics.
faces intense competition from other nearby export and the domestic markets. The new Thermex is currently processing
producers in Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Spun fabrics, mainly polyester, blended materials of 120 g/sqm, but this is expected
Bangladesh and China. The predicted rise of polyester and cotton, and 100 % cotton, form to increase to 200 g/sqm. The width is
production in Myanmar is going to increase the largest export produce, amounting to usually 160cm.
competition even further. about 70 % in total with only 30 % going to the Earlier this year the company installed
The three Luckytex mills are located in Samut domestic markets. a Monforts MXL 7000 continuous moist
Prakarn, a neighboring province of Bangkok, at The largest export market for 100% spun cross-linking unit which allows, for example,
the mouth of the Chao Phraya River. produce is the Middle East. Filaments for non-iron, laundry fresh and wrinkle-free
These factories are linked through flow of linings, outerwear, twill and satin are also properties, particularly on cotton fabrics
production, especially in the manufacturing of substantially exported, while denim is mainly for at a reaction of the time required by batch
spun fabrics and taffeta. Mill No 1 operates the local market. Taffeta currently accounts for methods. Process times are reduced from
spinning and weaving for production of 20% of exports. more than 20 hours to less than three minutes.

ISSUE 8 2013 45

P 45-47 Mach.indd 45 18/11/2013 16:43

 Machinery & Services

It also ensures greater flexibility and polyester woven fabrics. believe we have reached the strategic point
increased process safety. The recently installed Montex 6500 we are aiming for, in order to increase our
The MXL process line comprises a stenter is being used almost exclusively for value-added revenue.
padder, a stretching field and a Thermex taffeta, which Luckytex believes offers more “This is essential for us, and as a
hotflue treatment chamber. It is being used potential as a market. long-time user of Monforts, who we regard
principally for 100% cotton woven fabrics “The past two years has been a time of as a valuable business partner, we have
along with some cotton blended with heavy investment for us,” said Mr Li. “We every confidence in achieving our targets.”

Ramatex Orders 100 Fong’s Dyeing Machines

RAMATEX, A FULLY vertical integrated sites in both Malaysia and China is expected Ramatex was first established in 1976
manufacturer for textiles and garments, has to be complete by the end of this year. under Gimmill Industrial Pte in Singapore.
placed a major order for one hundred units According to Fong’s Group, the order, To date, the company has extended its
of Fong’s TEC series fabric dyeing machines. which has occurred during its 50th operational base across Asia, with three
Fong’s was recognised by Ramatex as a anniversary year, further endorses the fabric mills and 13 apparel factories
reliable and capable partner in supplying company’s strategy for one-stop ‘green’ spreading over Singapore, Malaysia,
state-of-the-art dyeing machines to reduce solutions as Ramatex is striving for Cambodia and China to reinforce its
utility consumption and provide high-quality technological upgradation to meet the capabilities across apparel manufacturing
dyeing. Installation of the devices at multiple ongoing demand of green production. functions.

Atlas Incorporates XenoLogic

ATLAS MATERIAL TESTING Technology, a global leader in technical textile / automotive interior specimens
weathering technology and services, has introduced a new • 19 or 11 extra-long test positions suitable for technical
weathering instrument suitable for performing accelerated textiles/plastics specimens
testing on a variety of materials.
Debuting at the K 2013 show on October 16–23 in Düsseldorf,
Germany, the Xenotest 440 is claimed to set a new standard in
economical, mid-sized, air-cooled xenon devices.
Designed for fast and economical testing, the Xenotest 440
combines new XenoLogic lamp operating technology with an
efficient design, which includes ultrasonic humidifiers to reduce
water consumption.
According to Atlas, XenoLogic is a new twin-lamp operating
technology which enables the instrument to achieve high
irradiance levels of 120 W/m2 of total UV radiation. By testing at
higher irradiance levels, test times can be significantly reduced,
compared to standard weathering tests.
In addition to its high irradiance functionality, XenoLogic
provides another advantage: an extended lamp service life.
The XenoLogic technology works by synchronising two 2200W
xenon lamps inside the chamber at the lowest possible stress
level, which leads to optimised lamp service life and maximised
light efficiency.
With this new technology, the two xenon lamps combined can
last over 4,000 hours under standard testing levels of 40-60
W/m2. This increases instrument uptime and reduces lamp
operating costs by as much as 30% or more.

The Xenotest 440 test chamber provides exceptional capacity

for an array of materials and sample sizes:
• 38 narrow (13.5 x 4.5 cm) test positions suitable for textiles,
leather or paper specimens
• 33 wide (10 x 6.8 cm) test positions suitable for plastics,
paints and coatings specimens
• 22 wide & long (13.5 x 5.5 cm) test positions suitable for The Xenotest 440

46 INTERNATIONAL DYER

P 45-47 Mach.indd 46 18/11/2013 16:43

 New Generation of Handheld Spectros
X-RITE HAS LAUNCHED the are calibrated to a single centerline The X-Rite Ci6x spectropho-
tometer
Ci6x family of handheld sphere standard.
spectrophotometers, claimed to
be able to read a wide range of The Ci6x key handheld
materials and provide benchmark features include:
measurements that can be used
at each step of the production or • A Spectralon sphere for
assembly process for products enhanced durability
as varied as coatings, plastics, providing years of reliable
textiles, wood and other materials. measurements.
The company says the Ci6x • Embedded NetProfiler 3
is its response to customers’ delivers operations
needs for a versatile handheld managers the confidence to
spectrophotometer that provides share, validate and audit
tighter controls of colour for data from device to device
materials, in-process parts and • Simultaneous specular to computers and remote 14 mm diameters
finished goods, along with an audit included/specular excluded measurement throughout an are available for customised
trail to ensure productivity for measurement in less operation measurement
facilities with multiple sites. The than 2 seconds provides • Ci64 Graphical Jobs use • Compatible with X-Rite
Ci64UV product is equipped with quick response quality visuals on a large colour SP6x handheld historical
UV illumination to support the control to determine screen to ensure reliable data, making data transfer
growing trend of adding optical if color variance is caused measurement collection; and sharing easy
brightener agents to materials. by appearance reducing human error • Seamless integration with
With NetProfiler 3.0 enabled, the • USB and available Bluetooth and creating consistency in other X-Rite software for
Ci6x allows companies to optimise communications capabilities processes. industrial applications, such
and verify that their instruments allows for easy connection • Aperture sizes 4, 8 and as Color iQC

NONWOVENSREPORT NONWOVENSREPORT
Issue 5 2013 INTERNATIONAL

INTERNATIONAL

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on the activities of the nonwovens industry. A blend of precice technical
articles, conference reports and comprehensive news, product and
machinery reviews makes this magazine indispensable to all decision
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ID Issue 8 2013 Classified:ID January 09 Classified.qxd 21/11/2013 15:56 Page 48

International Orders to: James Wilson, International Dyer Classifieds,

Dyer West One, 114 Wellington Street, Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS1 1BA, Great Britain.
Tel: +44 (0)113 3884882 • Fax: +44 (0)113 3884844 • E-mail: jwilson@wtin.com

Adding colour
improves your
advert

Advertisers Index
Advanced Dyeing Solutions Ltd ........................................................13

Roaches International Ltd ..................................................................23

Avocet Dye & Chemical Co. Ltd............................................................9

BASF South East Asia Pte Ltd................................................................3

Bezema AG ..........................................................................Front Cover

Archroma ............................................................................................11

DyStar Singapore Pte Ltd ......................................................................7

Erca SpA ....................................................................Inside Front Cover

SDL Atlas ..............................................................................................35

Thies GmbH & Co................................................................................31

Printed at KHL Printing Co Pte Ltd, 57 Loyang Drive, Singapore 508968 and published
by World Information Network, West One, 114 Wellington Street, Leeds, West
Yorkshire LS1 1BA. © World Textile Information Network Ltd. 2013 All rights reserved.
WTiN and World Textile Information Network are registered trademarks.

48 INTERNATIONAL DYER
 International Calendar of Events
Dyer
Submit your event listing to: The Editor, International Dyer, World Textile Information Network,
West One, 114 Wellington Street, Leeds, LS1 1BA Tel: +44 113 388 4882
E-mail: jscrimshaw@wtin.com

NOVEMBER 2013 13 – 14 IMI Industrial Digital Showcase Asia 2014, 20 – 23 FESPA Digital, Munich, Germany.
Sheraton Hotel and Towers, Hong Kong. Contact: FESPA.
11 – 13 Textile Sustainability Conference,
Contact: Al Keene, IMI. Tel: +44 1737 240788;
Istanbul, Turkey.
Tel: +1 207 235-2225; Fax: +44 1737 240770;
Contact: Textile Exchange,
Fax: +1 207 235-2226;
E-mail: Conference@TextileExchange.org; Website: www.fespa.com
E-mail: al@imiconf.com;
Website: www.textileexchange.org/
Website: www.imiconf.com
event/2013-textile-sustainability-confer JUNE 2014
ence-istanbul-turkey
FEBRUARY 2014 16 – 20 TMA Asia + CITME, Shanghai New

13 – 15 TV TecStyle Visions, Stuttgart, Germany. International Expo Centre, China.

13 – 15 21st European Ink Jet Conference, Contact: Contact: CEMATEX;
Contact: Nima Yusufi, gmk
Sheraton Lisboa Hotel, Tel: +44 7967 477305;
Veranstaltungsservice GmbH,
Lisbon, Portugal. Tel: +49 60 71/39 41 – 39; E-mail: info@cematex.com
Contact: Al Keene, IMI. Fax: +49 60 71/39 41 – 40;
Tel: +1 207 235-2225; E-mail: yusufi@gmk-messe.de; 19 – 21 Heimtextil India, Pragati Maidan,
Fax: +1 207 235-2226; Website: www.gmk-messe.de New Delhi. Contact: Messe Frankfurt Trade
E-mail: al@imiconf.com;
Fairs India Pvt Ltd,
Website: www.imiconf.com MARCH 2014 Tel: +91-22-6144 5900;
6–7 FESPA Global Summit, Munich, Germany.
Fax: +91-22-6144 5999;
18 – 20 FESPA China, Shanghai World Expo Contact: FESPA.
Exhibition and Convention Center. E-mail: info@heimtextil.in;
Tel. +44 1737 240788;
Contact: FESPA. Fax +44 1737 240770; Website: www.heimtextil.in
Tel. +44 1737 240788; Website: www.fespa.com
Fax +44 1737 240770; 20 South Asian Digital Textile Conference –
Website: www.fespa.com 26 – April 2 IPEX 2014, ExCel London, UK. Digital Printing for Homes and Interiors,
Contact: Wayne Beckett, sales director, Pragati Maidan, New Delhi.
28 – 29 7th Aachen-Dresden International Tel: +44 20 337 73940; Contact: WTiN,
Textile Conference, Fax: +44 (0)20 701 77818; Tel: +44 113 388 4882;
Eurogress Aachen, Aachen, Germany. Website: www.ipex.org/2014
Fax: +44 113 388 4844;
Website: www.aachen-dresden-itc.de. E-mail: info@digitaltextileconference.com;
APRIL 2014
Website: www.digitaltextileconference.com.
DECEMBER 2013 8 – 10 InPrint Industrial Print Show, Deutsche
10 – 12 AATCC Denim and Fashion Garment Messe, Hannover, Germany.
Washing Symposium, Contact: FM Brooks Exhibition Group, JULY 2014
Website: inprintlive.com 2–4 FESPA Africa, Johannesburg, South Africa.
DoubleTree Hotel, Research Triangle Park,
Contact: FESPA.
NC, USA.
10 – 12 TPF2014 – 6th China International Printing Tel: +44 1737 240788;
Contact: AATCC,
Industry Expo, Shanghai New International Fax: +44 1737 240770;
Website: www.aatcc.org.
Expo Center, Shanghai. Website: www.fespa.com
2014 Contact: Shanghai Sunexpo Co Ltd,

JANUARY 2014 Tel: +86-21-36506998;

AUGUST 2014
Fax: +86-21-36506997;
8 – 11 Heimtextil, Frankfurt, Germany. 12 – 15 Febratex, Parque Vila Germanica,
E-mail: info@sunexpo.org.cn;
Contact: Simone Schneider, Messe Frankfurt Blumenau-SC, Brazil.
Website: www.cstpf.com
Exhibition, Contact: FCEM,
Tel: + 49 69 75 75-67 05;
MAY 2014 Tel: +55 51 3382 0700;
Fax: + 49 69 75 75-66 09; E-mail: fcem@fcem.com.br;
13 – 15 Texprocess Americas, Georgia World
E-mail: Simone.Schneider@
Congress Center, Atlanta, Georgia, USA. Website: www. Febratex.com.br
messefrankfurt.com; Contact: Messe Frankfurt Inc,
Website: www.heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com Tel: +1 770 984 8016; SEPTEMBER 2014
Fax: +1 770 984 8023. 10 – 12 CAITME – Central Asian International Textile
9 – 10 European Digital Textile Conference – Website: www.texprocessamericas.com
Machinery Exhibition, Uzexpocenter,
Digital Printing for Interior Textiles,
Tashkent, Uzbekistan.
Messe Frankfurt, Germany. 13 – 15 Techtextil North America, Georgia World
Contact: WTiN, Contact: ITE Uzbekistan,
Congress Center, Atlanta, Georgia, USA.
Tel: +44 113 388 4882; Contact: Messe Frankfurt Inc, Tel: +(99871) 113 01 80;
Fax: +44 113 388 4844; Tel: +1 770 984 8016; Fax: +(99871) 237 22 72;
E-mail: info@digitaltextileconference.com; Fax: +1 770 984 8023. E-mail: caitme@ite-uzbekistan.uz;
Website: www.digitaltextileconference.com. Website: www.techtextilna.com Website: www.caitme.uz

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