Ultraviolet Protection
Ultraviolet Protection
research-article2022
                       JEF0010.1177/15589250221125461Journal of Engineered Fibers and FabricsAnas et al.
                                                                   Abstract
                                                                   Knitted fleece fabrics with superior comfort characteristics are chiefly focused in winter wear. Thermal characteristics
                                                                   are an area of interest in selecting fleece clothing. However, environmental hazards also need to be focused. Fleece
                                                                   clothing is worn in cold areas having higher ultraviolet rays exposures. Hence the clothing should have the capability of
                                                                   combating environmental challenges. The study focuses on engineering variable fleece structures with different materials.
                                                                   Cotton, nylon, and polypropylene fleece patterns have been knitted using fleece 1:1, 3:1, and 2:2 patterns. The designs
                                                                   vary by tuck and miss stitch configurations in the fleece course. Comfort characteristics were determined through air
                                                                   permeability, moisture management, and thermal resistance tests. Performance criteria were evaluated in terms of
                                                                   pilling resistance and ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) investigation. Structures and materials owing better comfort
                                                                   characteristics with satisfactory UPF have been predicted as safe clothing in UV affected zones, that is, fleece 3:1
                                                                   possessed the optimum comfort characteristics and UPF simultaneously; however, the mechanical performance was
                                                                   better for 2:1 and 1:1 fleece fabric due to less amount of miss stitch floating yarns.
                                                                   Keywords
                                                                   Knitting technology, fleece fabrics, comfort characteristics, ultraviolet protection
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2                                                                                        Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 
Sr. No.       Material             Count              Fiber fineness (dTex)       Moisture regain (%)        Tenacity (g/Denier)
1             Cotton               20 Ne              2.7 × 10−6                  8.5                        4.5
2             Nylon                275 Denier         1.4                         4                          10
3             Polypropylene        275 Denier         1.4                         0.05                       6.5
transport differ w.r.t environmental factors, that is, sea-        tightness factor is also influential.34 Blending cotton fibers
sonal temperature and humidity fluctuations.16–18 Different        with bamboo and Tencel enhanced UPF of cotton/bamboo/
knitted structural derivatives have been engineered to meet        Tencel knitted fabrics.35 Although literature comprises
varying demands.19 Fleece knitted fabrics are chiefly pre-         prestigious work on knitted fabrics’ comfort characteris-
ferred in winterwear, including sweatshirts, jackets, hood-        tics. Ultraviolet performance also has been evaluated in
ies etc.20 However, performance characteristics cannot be          some studies. However, UPF evaluation along with com-
neglected, focusing on comfort only.21 Performance char-           fort characteristics of fleece knitted fabrics derivatives
acteristics are mostly related to mechanical properties such       find a gap. Hence the research focuses on developing dif-
as pilling resistance, abrasion performance, and bursting          ferent fleece structures using cotton, nylon, and polypro-
strength.22 Environmental triggers consideration is also           pylene yarns. Comfort transfer characteristics have been
vital in clothing performance assessment. Knitted fleece           investigated with UPF evaluation to predict structures hav-
clothing consumers are mostly from cold regions where              ing satisfactory performance.
ultraviolet rays exposure governs severe skin infections.23
Hence, evaluating the ultraviolet rays protection factor is
                                                                   Materials and methods
critical in knitted fleece clothing performance, along with
heat-mass transfer and mechanical characteristics. And the         Fleece knitted fabrics are engineered using either two or
same issue is the focused concern of the research.                 three yarns, and the fleeces are named two-yarn and three-
    Frydrych et al. examined thermal characteristics of            yarn fleece, respectively. Three-yarn fleece comprises a
natural, and manmade cellulosic woven fabrics; Tencel              feeder repeat of three, having one course of all knit stitches,
woven fabrics possessed lower thermal conductivity.24              second all tuck, and third of tuck and miss stitches combi-
P. Chidambaram et al.’s comparative study revealed that            nation. However, two-yarn fleece has a feeder/course
100% bamboo knitted fabrics have better air permeability           repeat of two, the first course is all knit, and the second is
and moisture management characteristics than cotton                a combination of tuck and miss loops. Two-yarn fleece
blended, and thermal conductivity is also enhanced using           was architected in the research using different materials
loose stitch length.25 Material variations also influence          and structures. All knit stitches course is also called ground
heat and moisture management characteristics, keeping              knitting course. The respective yarn is called ground yarn,
knitted structural parameters constant.26 The physiological        and the second course is termed a fleece course knitted
comfort of plaited knitted fabrics is majorly influenced by        with fleece yarn. In the study, similar materials were uti-
changing yarn material; nylon plaited fabrics have better          lized for ground and fleece course knitting, including cot-
heat and moisture transportation than polyester and poly-          ton, nylon, and polypropylene. Cotton is a soft cellulosic
propylene plaited fabrics.27 Afzal et al. performed thermal        natural plant-based fiber chiefly known for its exceptional
characterizations showed an increase in thermal resistance         clothing comfort characteristics.36 Nylon is petroleum-
of bi-layered knitted fabric by increasing cotton percent-         based synthetic fiber consisting of polyamides/amide link-
age in PC blend yarns.28 Decreasing the tightness factor           age in its polymer chains. Nylon having compact molecular
leads to enhanced air transportation of interlock knitted          structure possesses soft hand and good weathering and
fabrics; however, moisture management capability is com-           abrasion properties.37 Polypropylene fiber is a linear chain
promised.29 Moisture transportation of knitted fabrics is          synthetic fiber synthesized through propylene polymeriza-
diminished with an increase in stitch length.30 Akçakoca           tion. Polypropylene having lightweight and viable
Kumbasar et al. investigation proved no significant comfort        mechanical characteristics, is famous in clothing and tech-
change in three-yarn knitted fleece after shearing except          nical textiles.38 The physical characteristics of materials
warmth feeling.31 However, in two-yarn knitted fleece              are shown in Table 1.
fabrics, thermal properties are influenced by raising.32              The knitting process of two-yarn fleece fabrics was
S. Gunesoglu and Meric found yarn type and blend ratio             done on the FUKUHARA circular single jersey weft knit-
less significant than raising in determining thermal contact       ting machine present in the Knitting Laboratory of National
properties of two-yarn fleece fabrics.33 Double knit struc-        Textile University, Pakistan. The machine has 90 feeders,
tures have a better ultraviolet protection factor than single      20 gauge, and 32 inches in diameter. Feeding tension of
knit corresponding to weight and thickness; however, the           ground and fleece yarn was 6 cN/Tex and 9 cN/Tex,
Anas et al.                                                                                                                    3
Figure 1. Diagrammatic notations: (a) Fleece 1:1, (b) Fleece 3:1, and(c) Fleece 2:2.
respectively. Forty-five feeders out of ninety were                  material detail of each knitted sample. Standardized rais-
employed on ground yarn feeding and remaining forty-                 ing of knitted specimens was done to enhance thermal
five fed fleece yarn. Machine parameters were kept con-              characteristics. Washing was done to remove process-
stant during knitting for solely achieving fleece structure          induced stresses and impurities, and samples were tumble
and material effect on comfort and performance. Three dif-           dried. Figure 3 shows the samples development and char-
ferent fleece structures were used with three knitting mate-         acterizations highlights.
rials. Figure 1 shows the diagrammatic representations,
and the animated images of the architected fleece structure
have been visualized in Figure 2.                                    Characterizations
    Table 2 shows experimental factors and levels details.           Comfort characterizations included air permeability, mois-
Three different materials were incorporated with three               ture management, and thermal resistance testing. Fabric
different structural derivatives of fleece. Fleece 1:1, 3:1,         thickness was also evaluated to interpret the correlation
and 2:2, were knitted using cotton, nylon, and polypropyl-           with comfort characteristics. Pilling resistance interpreted
ene. Fleece 1:1 has alternative tuck and miss stitches in            fabric performance characteristics against environmental
the fleece course with a move number of one after each               surface abrasions. Ultraviolet protection factor was exam-
ground course. Fleece 3:1 consisted of three miss and one            ined to check whether fleece clothing is suitable for being
tuck stitch alteration with move number two after each               worn in UV threatened regions if it performs satisfactorily.
ground knitted course. However, fleece 2:2 has an alterna-           All characterizations were performed under international
tive combination of two tuck and miss stitches with a                testing standards defined laboratory conditions and testing
move number of two wales. Table 3 illustrates the com-               protocols. Table 4 shows testing standards and characteri-
plete design of experiment, showing the structure and                zations output units.
4                                                                                     Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 
Table 2. Experimental factors and levels.                       and ANOVA was calculated using MINITAB 18 statistical
                                                                software. Analysis of variance was calculated using a 95%
Experimental     Levels
factors
                                                                confidence level; hence terms with p-value < 0.05 were
                 Level 1         Level 2      Level 3           statistically significant and vice versa. Table 5 highlights
                                                                calculated ANOVA p-values.
Fleece pattern   Fleece 1:1      Fleece 3:1   Fleece 2:2
Material         Cotton          Nylon        Polypropylene
                                                                Physical characteristics
Table 3. Design of experiment.                                  Physical characteristics include knitted fabric quality
                                                                parameters necessary to be evaluated after knitting. Wale
Sr. No.            Fleece pattern             Material          per inch (WPI) indicates the number of wales in one-inch
1                  Fleece 1:1                 Cotton            fabric width. Wales correspond to vertical warp yarns in
2                  Fleece 1:1                 Nylon             woven fabrics. Similarly, courses per inch (CPI) determines
3                  Fleece 1:1                 Polypropylene     the number of courses in one-inch fabric length, correspond-
4                  Fleece 3:1                 Cotton            ing to weft yarns of woven fabrics. Stitch density is also
5                  Fleece 3:1                 Nylon             sometimes calculated to highlight the number of stitches in
6                  Fleece 3:1                 Polypropylene     a one-inch square area. More wale and course density leads
7                  Fleece 2:2                 Cotton            to higher stitch density values, and the fabric cover/tightness
8                  Fleece 2:2                 Nylon             factor is enhanced. GSM abbreviating grams per square
9                  Fleece 2:2                 Polypropylene     meter is used to show fabric weight. More will be the GSM,
                                                                denser and thicker the fabric. Polypropylene led the highest
                                                                number of WPI; smooth fiber surface governed more inter
Results and discussion                                          yarn slippage and shrinkage. However, fleece 3:1 has the
                                                                highest number of WPI for all materials, followed by fleece
Results of characterizations have been presented in sepa-       2:1 having medium, and fleece 1:1 with the least WPI. The
rate sections. Statistical analysis of results was performed,   increasing number of miss stitches caused fabric width
Anas et al.                                                                                                             5
Table 4. Characterizations.
Table 5. ANOVA p-Values.                                       Nylon fabrics showed the highest GSM among all fleece
                                                               patterns. Stich length was kept constant in all fleece pat-
Terms                             Fleece pattern   Material    terns, 0.32 cm for ground course and 0.19 cm for the fleece
                                  p-Value          p-Value     course (Figure 4).
Thickness                         0.009            0.590
Air permeability                  0.169            0.005       Thickness
Moisture management               0.000            0.000
Thermal resistance                0.047            0.012       Thickness measures a fabric distinction from its length
Pilling resistance                0.05             0.023       and width also called z-axis fabric dimension. Knitted
Ultraviolet protection factor     0.000            0.002       structural derivatives influence length and widthwise
                                                               dimensional changes; however, different structures gov-
                                                               ern different thicknesses. Thickness chiefly works for
reduction and WPI increased. CPI of polypropylene was          incorporating comfort characteristics, performance, and
also higher than cotton and nylon. However, fleece 3:1 has     ultraviolet protection factor characterization. Fleece 1:1
the least CPI, and an increasing CPI trend toward fleece 2:1   exhibited 1.40, 1.57, and 1.57 mm thickness for cotton,
and fleece 1:1. Tuck stitches in weft knitted fabrics govern   nylon, and polypropylene, respectively. Fleece 2:2
lengthwise shrinkage. Hence, fleece patterns with fewer        showed 1.65, 1.92, and 1.68 mm thickness; however,
tuck stitches showed less CPI regardless of material. Fleece   fleece 3:1 had 2.24, 2.1, and 2.06 mm thickness for cot-
2:2, having optimum stitch density, exhibited higher GSM       ton, nylon, and polypropylene (Figure 5). Main effects
for all cotton, nylon, and polypropylene knitted samples.      plot in Figure 6 illustrates the thickness of fleece 3:1 is
6                                                                                         Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 
Figure 4. Physical characteristics radar plots: (a) WPI, (b) CPI, and (c) GSM.
                                                                     Air permeability
                                                                     Air permeability is a chiefly focused comfort characteris-
                                                                     tic, determining air transportation efficacy through fabric.
                                                                     Cotton knits showed air permeability of 170, 210, and
                                                                     230 mm/s for 1:1, 3:1, and 2:2 fleece respectively. Nylon
                                                                     had 104, 123, and 151 mm/s air permeability, however
                                                                     polypropylene knits exhibited 289 mm/s, 474 mm/s, and
                                                                     400 mm/s air permeabilities respectively for 1:1, 3:1, 2:2
                                                                     fleece fabrics (Figure 7). Fleece 3:3 has highest air perme-
                                                                     ability values, followed by a decreasing trend toward
Figure 5. 3D bar chart: Thickness.                                   fleece 2:2 and 1:1. Main effects plot shown in Figure 8
                                                                     verifies the trend. Increased number of floats made fabric
highest, fleece 2:2 had medium, and fleece 1:1 exhibited             thinner, and more channels were provided for air transpor-
least thickness. The increasing thickness relates to                 tation in fleece 3:1. However, fleece 2:1 consisted of two
Anas et al.                                                                                                                 7
                                                                 Moisture management
                                                                 Moisture management of textiles is quantified with
                                                                 OMMC value describing the overall moisture manage-
                                                                 ment capability including moisture transportation and
Figure 7. 3D bar chart: Air permeability.
                                                                 absorption rate etc. Fleece 1:1 showed OMMC values of
                                                                 0.0061, 0.0074, and 0.0083 respectively for polypropyl-
consecutive tuck stitches compared to single alternative         ene, nylon, and cotton. Fleece 3:1 had 0.0048, 0.006, and
tuck stitch in fleece 1:1. Tuck stitches being responsible       0.0069 OMMC, however fleece 2:2 showed 0.0055,
for fabric porosity enhanced air permeability, facilitating      0.0068, and 0.0075 OMMC values for polypropylene, cot-
air transportation through pores. Inherently being less          ton, and nylon respectively (Figure 9). An increasing trend
breathable nylon showed least air permeability among all         was observed by changing material from polypropylene to
fleece patterns. Cotton being more breathable has moderate       nylon, and cotton. Main effects plot in Figure 10 illustrates
air permeability. Cotton fibrils convolutions create fiber air   the trend statistically. However, influence of material was
friction hindering air transportation. While polypropylene       found statistically significant during ANOVA having
8                                                                               Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 
                                                           Thermal resistance
                                                           Thermal resistance is material’s ability of heath encapsula-
                                                           tion rather than transporting. Fleece 1:1 showed 0.0170,
                                                           0.0301, and 0.0406 km2/W thermal resistance for cotton,
                                                           nylon, and polypropylene respectively. Fleece 2:2 had
                                                           0.0265, 0.0367, and 0.0575 km2/W thermal resistance,
Figure 9. 3D bar chart: OMMC value.
                                                           however fleece 3:1 exhibited 0.0338, 0.0397, and
                                                           0.0472 km2/W thermal resistance respectively for cotton,
p-value < 0.05 (Table 5). Polypropylene with least mois-   nylon, and polypropylene (Figure 11). An increasing ther-
ture regain of 0.05% showed least OMMC value, nylon        mal resistance trend could be observed from cotton to
with 4% moisture regain had moderate OMMC values,          nylon and polypropylene. Figure 12 illustrates the trend
and cotton having highest moisture regain of 8.5%          statistically. Fabrics with higher air permeability show
exhibited highest moisture management capability.          lower thermal resistance, hence cotton showed least ther-
Fleece pattern variation was also found statistically      mal resistance than nylon.39 However, polypropylene
significant with p-value < 0.05. Fleece 1:1 had highest    showed highest thermal resistance; increasing air pockets
Anas et al.                                                                                                              9
                                                               Pilling resistance
                                                               Pilling or fuzzing is a phenomenon of protruding fibers
                                                               balls formation over fabric surface. Mechanical abrasions
                                                               govern pilling, deteriorating fabric surface and perfor-
                                                               mance characteristics. Pilling performance is quantified by
                                                               pilling grades ranging from 1 to 5. Grade 1 depicts wort
                                                               pilling performance, however grade 5 illustrate excellent
                                                               performance with no fabric surface change. In the study
Figure 11. 3D Bar chart: Thermal resistance.                   pilling performance was assessed on Martindale abrasion
                                                               tester after 1000 rubs with 0.44 psi load. Fleece 1:1 showed
in fabric hindered heat flow.40 Effect of materials was also   3, 3.5, and 4 grade pilling performance for cotton, nylon,
found statistically significant showing p-value < 0.05.        and polypropylene respectively. Fleece 3:1 had 2, 3, and
Fleece 1:1 showed least thermal resistance, governed by        3.5 pilling grades, however fleece 2:2 exhibited 2.5, 3, and
tuck stitches induced porosity. Fleece 2:2 had moderate        3 pilling grades respectively for cotton, nylon, and poly-
thermal resistance; although number of tuck stitches           propylene (Figure 13). Fleece 1:1 had highest pilling
increased to two, float length also increased up to two        resistance for all cotton, nylon, and polypropylene. Fleece
wales leading to thermal resistance erection. Similarly,       2:2 showed moderate, and fleece 3:1 exhibited slightly
fleece 3:1 with float length of three consecutive wales        lower pilling performance. Increasing number of miss
10                                                                               Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 
stitches affected fabric integrity and pilling performance    in pilling performance while changing material from cot-
compromised. Fleece pattern effect on pilling performance     ton to nylon and polypropylene. Fleece 3:1 exhibited 50%
was also statistically found significant (p-value < 0.05).    and 16.67% increase, and fleece 2:2 showed 20% and 0%
The trend has been statistically shown in main effects plot   increase in pilling performance respectively through
(Figure 14). Fleece 1:1 had 16.67% and 14.28% increase        material change from cotton to nylon and polypropylene.
Anas et al.                                                                                                             11
                                                              Conclusion
                                                              Knitwear has gained a satisfactory market value owning
                                                              satisfactory comfort characteristics. Knitted fabrics have
                                                              become a reliable choice in terms of comfort. Knitted
                                                              structural derivatives are architected, governing varia-
                                                              ble comfort and performance characteristics. Changing
                                                              weather demands season compatible clothing. Knitted
                                                              fleece fabrics are ubiquitous in winter wear, ensuring bet-
                                                              ter thermal characteristics to maintain body heat balance.
                                                              However, ultraviolet rays exposure can cause severe skin
                                                              and other health infections. Likewise, comfort characteris-
Figure 15. 3D Bar chart: UPF value.                           tics, the UPF performance can be altered through knitted
                                                              structural alterations. Fleece 1:1 has better pilling perfor-
Material effect has been also proved statistically signifi-   mance due to fewer floating loops. However, thermal char-
cant having p-value < 0.05 in ANOVA.                          acteristics were not satisfactory. Fleece 2:2 offers optimum
                                                              air permeability, moisture management, and thermal resist-
                                                              ance. Consecutive tuck stitches induced porosity, reducing
Ultraviolet protection factor
                                                              fabric cover, which reduced the UPF value. However,
Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) is a standardized meas-   fleece 3:1 owned satisfactory comfort characteristics with
urement of fabrics protection against ultraviolet rays com-   the highest UPF, predicting it as a suitable structure. The
ing from sun or any other source. UPF of 50 + is considered   material effect was also statistically significant
excellent, protecting users from 98% of harmful radia-        (p-value < 0.05), and nylon knits performed better than
tions. However, 25 to 39 UPF value is entitled very good;     cotton and polypropylene.
12                                                                                          Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 
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