BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY
ETHIOPIAN INSTITUTE OF TEXTILE AND FASHION TECHNOLOGY
POSTGRADUATE PROGRAM
DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN
ADVANCED FASHION MATERIALS
Article Review on the Effect of Knitted Fabric Structure and Yarn
Characteristics On Functional And Comfort Characteristics
Prepared by: Bezalem Zeleke
ID No. BDU1700206
Submitted to: Prof. Tamirat Tesfaye (PhD)
December 7, 2024
Table of Contents
Abstract ...................................................................................................................................... 1
1. Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 2
2. Methods .............................................................................................................................. 3
3. Fundamental aspects of knitted fabric structures: .............................................................. 3
3.1. Knitted Fabric Structure .............................................................................................. 3
3.2. Yarn Characteristics .................................................................................................... 4
3.3. Comfort Characteristics............................................................................................... 4
3.4. Functional characteristics ............................................................................................ 5
3.5. How do knitted fabric structure and yarn characteristics affect functional and
comfort characteristics?.......................................................................................................... 5
4. Conclusion .......................................................................................................................... 8
5. References .......................................................................................................................... 9
Review on the Effect of Knitted Fabric Structure and Yarn Characteristics
on Functional and Comfort Characteristics
Bezalem Zeleke1*, 2
1
Department of Fashion Design, Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology, Bahir
Dar University, Bahir Dar Ethiopia
2
Department of Leather Technology, Lideta Manufacturing College, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
*Bezalem Zeleke, bebe.zele@gmail.com
Abstract
This review demonstrated how both functional and comfort aspects of fashion products are
significantly affected by the structure of the knitted fabric and the characteristics of the yarn
used in their production. Among the various fabric types, knitted fabrics have gained
prominence due to their unique properties, which include elasticity, breathability, and comfort.
The performance of knitted fabrics is extremely influenced by the relationship between their
structure and the characteristics of the yarns used in their production. By selecting the
appropriate knit structure and yarn characteristics, textile manufacturers and designers aim to
enhance the most suitable materials and fabrics for intended applications, including active
wear, casual clothing, and specialized textiles to innovate in the competitive fashion market.
Through the analysis of various studies, this review aims to explain the interrelationship
between fabric structure and yarn characteristics, and their effect on wearability, performance,
and user satisfaction. The relationship between knitted fabric structure and yarn characteristics
is crucial in determining the functional and comfort attributes of textiles.
Keywords: knitted fabric, yarn, comfort, activewear, warp knitting, weft knitting
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1. Introduction
The clothing and fashion industry continually seeks to enhance the performance and comfort
of fabrics, particularly in knitted clothing, widely used in various applications, from fashion to
functional apparel. The main desirable properties of knitted fabrics (warp and weft) are their
pleasing appearance, loose elastic structure, softness, breathability, absorbency, texture,
freedom from static, and comfort, thereby making them ideal to be used in sportswear, casual
wear, innerwear, fashion, apparel, etc. On the other hand, fiber type, yarn count, twist and
structure, and fabric construction are all found to influence their comfort properties (Nazir MU,
Shaker K, Nawab Y, et al. , J Text I 2017).
Knitted fabrics are characterized by their unique structures, which can significantly influence
their mechanical properties, such as elasticity, durability, and drape. Similarly, the
characteristics of the yarn, such as fiber type, twist, and count, play a crucial role in determining
the comfort attributes of the final textile product, including softness, breathability, and moisture
management (Yang Y, Chen L, Naveed T, et al., Text Res J 2019; ). Selecting the appropriate
knitted fabric structure and yarn characteristics is vital for optimizing comfort and performance
in clothing, highlighting the importance of these elements in the design process (Atasağun HG,
Okur A, Psikuta A, et al. , Text Res J 2019;).
This review attempts to explain how fabric structure and yarn characteristics affect the
functional and comfort characteristics of knitted fabric, provides studies of the interplay
between knitted fabric structure and yarn characteristics, how different fabric structures and
yarn types can enhance specific functional attributes that are invaluable for textile
manufacturers and overlooked aspects of yarn characteristics about comfort and functionality.
These approaches are more important for comprehensive analysis by researchers (both
academic and industry) and practical implications for the textile industry by guiding product
development and ensuring that designers select the most suitable materials for their intended
applications, and by emphasizing the importance of fiber type, yarn count, and twist; the
industry moves towards more performance-oriented textiles for innovation in yarn
development.
By examining different knitting techniques and yarn properties, the importance of selecting
appropriate combinations to meet specific consumer needs and performance requirements is
emphasized.
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2. Methods
To obtain crucial review information on the effect of knitted fabric structure and yarn
characteristics on functional and comfort characteristics the following search engine methods
were used: Google, Google Scholar, Scispace, Sage Journals, Research Gate, and Springer
Link.
The searching key terms used for easy gathering of the article information are knitted fabric
structure, yarn characteristics, the effect of knitted fabric structure, and characteristics.
The published articles that were referred to date up to 2023.
3. Fundamental aspects of knitted fabric structures:
Knitted constructions are made by interloping yarns in horizontal rows (wales) and vertical
columns (courses) of stitches. They are softer, more flexible, and easily conformable, and they
have better handling characteristics than woven structures.
3.1. Knitted Fabric Structure
Knitted fabrics are created through the interlocking of yarns, which can be done using various
techniques such as warp knitting and weft knitting. The structure of knitted fabrics can be
categorized into several types, including but not limited to single jersey, rib, interlock, and
warp-knit (Yang Y, Chen L, Naveed T, et al., Text Res J 2019; ). Each structure offers different
characteristics:
Single Jersey: Commonly used for T-shirts and lightweight garments, this structure is known
for its softness and stretchability. However, it may lack stability and durability compared to
other structures.
Rib Knits: Featuring alternating knit and purl stitches, rib knits exhibit excellent elasticity and
recovery, making them suitable for fitted garments.
Interlock Knits: This structure provides a balanced fabric with a smooth surface on both sides.
It is thicker and more stable, making it ideal for items that require more durability.
Warp Knits: Typically used in specialized applications, warp knits offer higher strength and
stability, making them suitable for sportswear and industrial applications.
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3.2. Yarn Characteristics
Yarns are the foundational building blocks of knitted fabrics, and their characteristics, such as;
fiber type, thickness, twist, and finish, significantly affect the overall fabric quality. The
properties of yarn play a critical role in defining the performance of knitted fabrics.
Key characteristics include:
Fiber Type: Natural fibers (e.g., cotton, wool) offer comfort and breathability, while synthetic
fibers (e.g., polyester, nylon) enhance durability and moisture-wicking properties.
Yarn Texture: Textured yarns can enhance the fabric's tactile qualities and thermal insulation
properties. High-loft yarns can increase warmth, while smooth yarns may provide a cooler
touch.
Yarn Count: Finer yarns create a softer and lighter fabric, while thicker yarns contribute to
durability and warmth.
3.3. Comfort Characteristics
Comfort is a multifaceted attribute of fit, tactile properties, and thermal comfort. It is a
multidimensional aspect influenced by factors such as fabric softness, breathability, moisture
management, and temperature regulation. These parameters are critical in applications ranging
from everyday clothing to specialized performance wear. Comfortability also depends on fabric
thickness, softness, wicking properties, moisture transport properties, absorbency, drying rate,
water resistance, and stretch.
Tactile Comfort: The surface texture and softness of knitted fabrics are paramount for wearer
satisfaction. Yarns and specific knit structures contribute to a softer hand feel, enhancing
comfort.
Fit and Stretch: The inherent elasticity of knitted fabrics allows for better fit and ease of
movement, which is especially important in activewear and fitted garments.
Thermal Comfort: The ability of a fabric to regulate temperature is vital for comfort. Knitted
fabrics can provide better thermal regulation through moisture management and insulation
properties.
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3.4. Functional characteristics
Knitted fabrics excel in various functional attributes such as stretchability, breathability,
thermal regulation, and moisture management. The adaptability of knitted structures means
they can be engineered for specific functionalities, essential for activewear that demands high
performance during physical activity (Joanne Yip, Wing-Yu Chan, 2020). For instance,
moisture-wicking properties are enhanced in engineered knit fabrics that channel moisture
away from the skin while maintaining breathability. In a competitive market, the functionality
of knitted fabrics ranging from activewear that supports athletic performance to medical
textiles that prioritize hygiene has driven innovation. Fabrics are now being engineered to meet
specific performance demands through advanced knitting techniques and innovative yarn
technologies.
3.5. How do knitted fabric structure and yarn characteristics affect functional and
comfort characteristics?
The interaction between knitted fabric structure and yarn characteristics ultimately determines
the functional and comfort attributes of the final product.
I. The structure of knitted fabrics can significantly affect their properties, including
stretchability, drape, and insulation. The choice of knitting pattern (e.g., rib, jersey, or
interlock) adjusts the fabric's mechanical properties and tactile sensations, influencing how
they perform in various applications such as sportswear, intimate apparel, and everyday
garments.
a) Stretch and Recovery: Knitted fabrics are inherently more stretchable than woven fabrics,
making them suitable for applications that require a close fit and freedom of movement.
The degree of stretch and recovery is influenced by the type of knit and yarn characteristics.
b) Breathability and Moisture Management: The construction of the knitted fabric can
enhance breathability and moisture-wicking properties, crucial for activewear and
performance garments. Open structures allow better air circulation, while specific knitting
techniques can promote moisture management.
c) Thermal Properties: The fabric structure plays a critical role in thermal insulation, which
is essential for outdoor apparel and thermal wear. Knitted fabrics can trap air within their
loops, providing warmth while offering comfort.
II. Different yarn materials: The choice of yarn significantly impacts the comfort and
functional characteristics of knitted fabrics. Natural fibers like cotton are soft and
breathable, ideal for everyday wear, whereas synthetic fibers like polyester provide
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durability, moisture-wicking properties, and a range of textures. (Like cotton, wool, and
synthetic fibers) impart distinct properties to the finished fabric.
a) Fiber Type: Natural fibers (like cotton and wool) are valued for their comfort and moisture
absorption, while synthetic fibers such as; polyester and nylon are favored for their
durability and moisture-wicking capabilities. Blends of different fibers can be used to
achieve desired performance attributes.
b) Yarn Thickness and Twist: The thickness of the yarn influences fabric density, hand feel,
and durability. Tighter twists can enhance strength and reduce pilling, whereas looser twists
may improve softness and drape.
c) Finishing Treatments: Innovative finishing treatments can enhance yarn properties,
adding functionalities such as antimicrobial, UV protection, and stain resistance. These
characteristics are increasingly demanded by consumers looking for performance-driven
textiles.
In addition, fabric structure and yarn characteristics affect the other properties of knitted
fabric. Such as
1. Thermal Comfort:
The thermal comfort of knitted fabrics is significantly influenced by the fabric structure (like
loop size and density) and yarn characteristics (such as fiber content and twist). Fabrics
featuring larger loops facilitate enhanced air circulation, which can lead to better heat retention
and moisture transport, ultimately improving thermal comfort for the wearer (Robson, T. A. A.
D. C. J., & Lewis, K. A., 2021).
2. Moisture Management:
The moisture management properties of knitted fabrics can be tailored through specific yarn
characteristics and fabric structures. Effective moisture-wicking and rapid drying rates are
essential for activewear and sports textiles. The hydrophilic or hydrophobic nature of the yarn
plays a crucial role in how moisture is absorbed and transported away from the skin (Wang, Y.
Z. L. S. C. et al.., 2023).
3. Mechanical Properties:
The mechanical properties, including elasticity, strength, and durability of knitted fabrics, are
influenced by yarn characteristics (like yarn count and twist) and structural design features
(such as ribbing and purling). These properties are vital for garments intended for use in active
or challenging environments, where flexibility and resistance to wear are key (Ammar, N. M.
J. A. C. K. H. B. K., 2022).
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4. Breathability:
The structural arrangement of knitted fabrics can greatly enhance their breathability, which is
essential for maintaining comfort in clothing. Open fabric structures allow for increased air
permeability, making them particularly suitable for sportswear and outdoor apparel where
ventilation is critical (Wang, A. B. A. C. P. C. M. K. A. F. M. J. K., 2023).
5. Aesthetic Properties:
The interplay between yarn characteristics and fabric structure also influences the aesthetic
properties of knitted textiles, including visual appeal and tactile sensations. These aspects
significantly affect consumer preferences and the marketability of knitted products (Malek, M.
A. S. M. K. B. N. Z. A. Y., 2023).
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4. Conclusion
This article offers valuable insights into the interplay between fabric structure and yarn
properties. The properties of any clothing are decided by the constituents of its fibers, yarn,
and fabric structure. As clothing, it should satisfy the wearer both in functional and aesthetic
aspects. Its findings have important implications for the clothing and fashion industry,
particularly in the context of product development and innovation. The functional properties
of knitted fabrics, such as moisture management, breathability, and thermal insulation, are
directly influenced by both the fabric structure and yarn characteristics. By continuing to
explore this relationship, researchers and manufacturers can enhance the performance and
comfort of knitted textiles, ultimately leading to better fashion products for consumers. Future
research should focus on developing innovative yarns and knitting techniques that further
improve the functional capabilities and comfort of knitted clothing, particularly in niche
applications such as activewear or specialized medical textiles. By addressing these areas, the
research can significantly contribute to the understanding of how knitted fabric structures and
yarn characteristics influence both functional and comfort aspects. This knowledge will
ultimately benefit the textile industry and enhance consumer experiences across a variety of
applications. Both knitted fabric structure and yarn characteristics must be carefully selected
to balance aesthetic appeal, functional performance, and comfort, making them critical
considerations in fashion design.
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