Bunny Toy
Bunny Toy
40 cm (16") BUNNY
Contents
PRINTING GUIDE
3
HAND SEWING
7
PATTERN
25
This pa�ern should be printed using a standard paper size - A4 size in most countries,
Le�er Size in the US and Canada.
■ Make sure your size op�on is set to “ACTUAL SIZE” (or with custom scale set to 100%) -
for Windows and to SCALE 100% - for MacOS.
■ A�er prin�ng, get a ruler and check that it measures correctly. Do this by measuring the
test square on the pa�ern to make sure it is 2.5 cm or 1" - it should 100% align.
2.5 cm (1")
PRINT
2.5 cm (1")
TEST
SQUARE
If you need any help with prin�ng the files feel free to contact me via Instagram
@skorduli.crea�ons
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11
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PATTERN
Please read the instruc�on carefully on how to print pa�ern files.
SEWING MACHINE
Sewing machine and basic knowledge of how to use it. Whilst it is possible to sew the toy
by hand, it would require a lot of �me and pa�ence.
IRON
STUFFING
You will need approximately 170-200 grams (6-7 oz) of stuffing, depending on the type you
choose. I use polyester stuffing ExcelFibre Hobby Fill. You can use any stuffing: polyester,
wool, bamboo etc, but I would recommend buying the best stuffing you can afford. Cheap
op�ons may look and feel the same as some of the more expensive ones through the bag,
but they o�en result in lumpy toys that don’t hold their shape as well over �me.
■ Each piece of the pa�ern has instruc�ons for cu�ng wri�en on it.
■ Seam allowances have NOT been built into the pa�ern pieces, so you should sew
RIGHT ON THE LINE and then cut out 0.5 cm (�⁄�") from the seam.
■ Iron the fabric before you begin and make sure you have enough room to lay it flat.
■ Make sure the needle in your machine is sharp and the right size for your fabric.
■ Always use the reverse func�on on your sewing machine to backs�tch over the first and
last couple of s�tches of your seams. This stops the s�tching from coming undone.
■ Use the RIGHT SIDE of the fabric when instructed. This is the side that will be visible
when you have finished. Whilst it is easy to iden�fy the right side of pa�erned fabrics,
you may have to look more closely to check if there is a difference with plain fabrics.
Some�mes the colour on one side is duller than the other.
■ Use very short and �ght s�tches - 1.5-2 mm (�⁄��-�⁄��") to sew the toy’s body, arms and
legs. If your s�tch is too long stuffing and raw edges of fabric may come out when you
stuff them.
■ Take your �me stuffing your toy. You’ll probably need more stuffing than you imagine!
When a toy is stuffed well it’s firm and smooth. When it is stuffed poorly it is lumpy in
some places and hollow in others.
■ When sewing a curve, do it with the lowest speed. Sew 2 or 3 s�tches, then put the
needle on your machine in a downward posi�on, li� the presser foot and pivot the fabric
slightly before pu�ng the foot down and sewing again. Sew the curves VERY SLOWLY.
■ Once you have sewn a curve, remove some of the excess bulk to get a smooth, round
shape by trimming the seam allowance with pinking shears, or with small fabric scissors
by cu�ng triangular notches out of it. Take care not to cut your s�tching!
A B C
1. Cut a length of thread twice the length you want to s�tch with. For example, if you
normally s�tch with an 30 cm (12") length, cut your thread to 60 cm (24").
2. If you use an embroidery thread, separate out 1 strand of floss and fold it in half so the
ends meet.
3. Thread both ends through the eye of your needle. The other end of the thread will form
a loop.
4. Bring your needle up from the back of your fabric to the front at the point you want to
start s�tching, leaving 5-7.5 cm (2-3") of loop at the back.
5. Make your first s�tch (in the case of cross s�tch, this will be a half cross s�tch). When
your needle is at the back of the fabric, pass it through the loop of thread.
6. Pull gently to �ghten. The loop will lie flat against the back of the fabric and your thread
will be secure so you can con�nue s�tching.
A B C
1. Change to a doll needle before you finish your last s�tch. Start with your needle and
thread coming up from the back of the toy’s head. If you don’t have a doll needle use
your embroidery needle and come out 5 cm (2") away from where you have been
s�tching.
2. Use your one hand to hold the needle and your other hand to hold the thread to get the
tension and spacing right.
4. Place the needle back into the hole where it came out and come out 2-2.5 cm (~1”)
away. Pull that length of thread down towards the �p of the needle This will pull the
coiled thread down the needle, and as it �ghtens, it makes a li�le bundle of thread
bunched at the bo�om.
5. Gently tug the thread so that the knot ‘pops’ inside the body. Pull the thread taut and
cut. The thread should disappear inside the body.
LADDER STITCH
Also known as invisible s�tch, ladder s�tch is the most useful s�tch to learn when making
toys. This simple technique hides your s�tching when you sew openings shut.
A B C
2. Repeat on the other side of the opening, directly parallel. Con�nue un�l you reach the
end of the opening, pulling the thread gently as you go to gradually close the opening
up.
3. Once you’ve done half way through one arm, pull the thread gently and touch that area.
You might fill there should be more filler - you could add �ny amount to make all arm
equally stuffed. Then finish closing up with the invisible s�tch.
4. If there are s�ll gaps when you have finished, repeat the ladder s�tch in the opposite
direc�on.
CUTTING LAYOUTS
Suggested cu�ng layouts are offered below, depending on the width of your fabric.
EAR
EAR
fold here
(grainline)
selvages
LEG
BODY LEG
ARM
ARM
STEP 1
Cut out all paper pa�ern pieces of the bunny pa�ern
following the thick con�nuous line.
Fold the fabric in half wrong side up, RIGHT side inside
facing each other, bringing together the selvages. Make
sure the fabric is flat and smooth.
STEP 2
Place the pa�ern pieces on top of the fabric and hold in
place with pins. The grainline (double-pointed arrow on the
pa�ern pieces) should run parallel to the selvedge. This is
very important when making toys. The strength of the fabric
and the amount that it stretches varies depending on the
direc�on it's pulled. This pa�ern has been designed so that
when the toy is sewn together it is as strong as possible,
and when it is stuffed it stretches into the correct shape. If
you place the pa�ern pieces the wrong way, the toy’s body
will be distorted when you stuff it.
STEP 3
Trace all pieces on the fabric: trace 2 ears, 2 legs, 2 arms
and one body. Make sure you transfer all the necessary
notches and markings from the pa�ern to the fabric using
erasable pen or white chalk.
Please note that the body is cut in the opposite direc�on
to the rest of the body pieces.
STEP 5
Cut out arms, legs and ears about 0.5-0.7 cm (�⁄�-�⁄�") from
the seam, all the way around, leaving a li�le more seam
allowance near openings.
STEP 6
Trim around the curves with pinking shears, or make small
notches on rounded parts (�ps of hands, legs and ears).
This will allow these areas to have smoother curves in the
end.
STEP 7
Turn out hands, legs and ears. You can use either forceps
or a wide straw and narrow s�ck, for example a back of a
paint brush.
STEP 9
Remove the straw gently and con�nue to push the
paintbrush into the fabric un�l the limb is the right side
out.
STEP 10
If you use forceps, insert them inside the limb, tweak the
edge and gently pull the forceps out of the opening.
STEP 11
Push all areas out. Then press seams with fingers.
STEP 13
Close up openings on arms, using a ladder (invisible) s�tch.
STEP 14
If there are s�ll gaps when you have finished, repeat the
ladder s�tch in the opposite direc�on.
STEP 15
A�er turning out ears, gently press the chops�ck along
the inside of the seams to shape the ears. Press ears nice
and flat with iron or with your fingers.
STEP 17
Use pins to keep the shape of the ears and secure them
with a bas�ng s�tch.
STEP 18
Make sure that the length of the ears are equal, and trim
them if necessary.
STEP 19
Make sure that body pieces are pinned RIGHT side
together. Sew the body all the way around RIGHT ON
THE LINE, leave openings un-sewn between marks. Use a
short s�tch - 1.5-2 mm (�⁄��-�⁄��") and make sure to
backs�tch at the beginning and end of every seam. Be
very slowly at the curves and make sure to backs�tch at
the beginning and end of every s�tch line.
STEP 21
Place the ears inside so there is 1 cm (�⁄�") above the seam
and 1 cm (�⁄�") between the ears (as shown on the photo).
Make sure the ears are parallel to each other and are same
length. Pin the ears to the body.
STEP 22
Sew the opening along the line. I prefer to sew on the ears
with bas�ng s�tch, then turn inside out the body - to
make sure the ears are sewn perfectly. If the ears look
good then I turn over (right side inside) the body again and
sew the seam with the sewing machine. If the ears are not
a�ached well, I remove the bas�ng s�tch and correct the
ears loca�on.
STEP 23
A�er you sewn on the ears, turn the body inside out and
use a tool to push out and smooth all parts. Roll the seams
between your index finger and thumb to shape the body.
This helps create smooth curves when the body is stuffed.
STEP 25
Stuff the body.
To stuff the body - push fill bit by bit and pack it nice and
firm in the head star�ng at the top of the head working
your way down. Remember that you can manipulate the
shape of the head somewhat with stuffing. Stuff firmly so
fill can’t move around when the toy is finished.
STEP 26
Stuff the neck aiming to make it fairly s�ff and firm. This
will prevent your toy from having a floppy head. There
should be no creases in the cheeks and neck.
Seams look nice and straight. You can s�ll press on the toy
around to shape it a bit be�er a�er stuffing.
STEP 27
Fold the bo�om opening of the body 1.3 cm (�⁄�") inwards.
STEP 29
With the front of the body facing towards you, insert
1.5 cm (�⁄�") of the top of the legs into the opening at the
bo�om of the body, keeping them close to the sides of the
body.
Pin the legs into place, as shown. Check that the legs are
the same length.
STEP 30
Sew the legs into place by s�tching 3 mm (�⁄�") from the
bo�om of the body.
STEP 31
Stuff the rest of the body. Push stuffing into the corners at
the top of the legs and con�nue to stuff each side of the
body. Use the chops�ck or haemostats to gently push the
stuffing into the seams so that the sides of the body are
smooth and round.
STEP 33
Sew the opening on the body shut using a ladder
(invisible) s�tch.
STEP 34
THREAD
A�aching the arms. To sew arms in place use a long doll
needle and thick thread. You can use a matching
embroidery thread or a thread that you sew the bunny,
folding 4-6 �mes.
ARM ARM
BODY
STEP 35
Pin arms in place where you like them to be.
Start to a�ach the arms on any side you prefer. Use the
scheme from step 34.
STEP 37
Then again through same arm, body and second arm.
STEP 38
Then back through the second arm to the armpit. Under
one armpit should be two ends of the thread.
STEP 39
Tighten and �e the ends 2-3 �mes.
STEP 41
Then insert the needle into the arm close to the knot,
and have it come out elsewhere on the arm. Trim the
ends.
STEP 42
That is how your bunny should look like.
STEP 43
Drawing and embroidering the face. Firstly you need
to find there the nose should be by playing around with
pins.
STEP 45
Use an erasable fabric pen (pencil) to mark this spot. Play
around with the nose posi�on, finding the best spot.
STEP 46
Draw a nose and a mouth. You can design your bunny face
expression, by making it more or less smiley.
STEP 47
Once you’ve drawn the nose, measure 1 cm (�⁄�") up. Mark
a spot strictly ver�cally and draw a horizontal line.
STEP 49
Measure around 1.8 cm (�⁄�") towards the sideways - and
mark the outer corners of the eyes.
STEP 50
Draw the arc shaped eyes. Arch up - smiley face, or arch
down - sleepy face. Draw eyelashes and freckles. Make
sure the face you have drawn is nice and cute, the eyes
are symmetrical and same size.
STEP 51
Thread a needle with long piece of embroidery thread
(one strand) folded in half. Begin with a knotless start and
s�tch the eye and the eyelashes using backs�tch or stem
s�tch. Secure the thread with a french knot finish at the
back of the head.
Repeat for the other eye. If your fabric is light and thin
don’t sew both eyes with the same thread. If the thread is
carried over it will be visible through the body fabric.
STEP 53
Finish the face with freckles, using a blush, brown or pink
thread. Remove fabric pen (pencil) marks with heat or
water (use a hairdryer, an iron or a damp cloth).
The bunny is ready!
I hope you enjoyed bringing it to life and are inspired to keep crea�ng!
If you would like to make more clothes for your bunny or sew a new friend you can find
more pa�erns at my Etsy page: www.etsy.com/au/shop/ScorduliCrea�ons
Thank you for choosing my shop and suppor�ng my small business with your purchase.
Would you please take a moment to leave a review. Posi�ve feedbacks brighten up my day
and help poten�al customers make confident purchases. I would be forever grateful for your
support.
If you have any ques�on please don’t hesitate to ask me via my Instagram:
@skorduli.crea�ons or my Etsy page.
Intended for personal use. Buyer is not allowed to resell, copy or redistribute this pa�ern
and instruc�on in any form. Thank you for respec�ng my work.
SAFETY INFORMATION
Extra care should always be taken with small children around handmade items.
Small parts and loose threads are a choking hazard.
■ If you need to clean your bunny use warm soapy water and gently dab it with a so�,
damp cloth, and lay flat to dry.
■ Do not wash it in a washing machine.
■ Do not use dryer.
■ Keep your toy away from direct sunlight to prevent the fabrics from fading.
■ Even though your toy is made from washable materials, it’s not designed to wash
repeatedly.
opening opening
grainline
grainline grainline © Skorduli Crea�ons
CUT 4
EAR
CUT 4
LEG
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openin
BODY
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CUT 2
ARM
CUT 4
opening
© Skorduli
2.5 cm (1")
PRINT
2.5 cm (1")
Crea�o
TEST
SQUARE
ns
grainline
Measure this
square to check
the pa�ern is
printed at the
correct size opening