•

• 1 inch square
for print
•
accuracy
•

Finished doll approx 23 inches high

Please use caution with small children.
www.vintagericrac.blogspot.com
 Addie
All seams are ¼ inch unless otherwise stated.

Cut the following:

From linen or 100% cotton
• 2 heads (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
• 4 arms (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
• 4 legs (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
• 2 bodies (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
From hair felt
• 1 hair front
• 1 hair back
• 6 strips of felt measuring 10 x 1 ½ inches
From slipper felt
• 2 slipper fronts
• 2 slipper backs
From iron-on stabilizer
• 1 head
From undies fabric To cut a reverse piece, you simply flip
the paper pattern piece over and then
• 2 undies (cut 1 cut 1 reverse) trace and cut out. This gives you a left
and right hand side of whatever the
pattern piece is.
Head Construction:
Face transfer
1. Iron the stabiliser to the wrong side of one head piece. This will be the front of your doll’s head.
The stabiliser gives a better foundation for the face embroidery.
2. Take the paper pattern piece for the head and using a large needle, poke holes through the
paper where the eyes are. Also poke holes along the nose and mouth lines.
3. Pin the paper pattern piece to the front head piece. Poke the tip of a water soluble marker into
each of the holes in your paper pattern piece. Take the paper pattern piece off and very lightly
join the dots you have made to create a line for the nose and mouth.
4. You will embroider the face after stuffing but it is best to transfer the markings now.

1
Safety eyes ( you may prefer to embroider your doll eyes):
1. Pierce the front of your doll’s face at the eye position with a large needle (or a kitchen skewer)
and place the eye post through the hole.
2. Create a small felt 'washer' by cutting two small scraps of felt slightly larger than the back piece
of the safety eye. Pierce a hole in the centre of each.
3. Place one scrap washer over each post on the wrong side of the head and then put the metal
back over the post and press firmly into place. The felt washer helps prevent the metal back from
creating a ridge on the front of the face. Repeat for the other eye.

Hair:
1. Place head front and back right sides up in front of you. Using the hair line on the pattern piece as
a guide, pin the hair front and back in place
2. With a thread to match the hair colour, sew the felt hair to the head close to the edge as
indicated on the head pattern piece. You don’t need to sew the areas that will be caught in the
head seam.
3. Repeat for the felt hair on the head back.
4. With contrasting thread (if you so fancy) sew some hair detail
onto the front and back of the hair. You can draw this first with a
chalk marker or water soluble pen.
5. Place three felt strips together, overlapping them slightly. Place
them in position on the head back and baste them in place as shown, sewing close to the edge.
Repeat with the other three on the other side.

Body / head construction:

1. With body and undies right sides together, sew the waistline seam leaving a generous turning gap
as shown on the pattern piece. This will be the back of your doll. Press this seam open (it will
make things much easier later).
2. Repeat for the other body and undies but do not leave a turning gap this time. This will be the
front of your doll.

2
 3. Place the head back and body back (with the turning gap) right sides
together, aligning the raw edges of the neck seam. Pin and sew the
neck seam.
4. Repeat for the head front and body front.

Arm construction:
1. Pin two arms right sides together and sew around, leaving both the
stuffing gap and the end of the arm open.
2. Clip your curves and turn arm right side out. Repeat for other arm.
3. Do not stuff.
4. Baste each arm in position on the front of your doll.

Leg /slipper construction:

1. With two legs right side up, make sure they are facing opposite ways (mirror image). Place a
slipper front on each leg.
2. Stitch each slipper to the leg front by sewing close to the top edge. Place the inner ears and nose
in place and sew around each piece close to the edge. Repeat for the slipper backs, sewing across
the top edge.
3. Pin a front and back leg right sides together and sew around leaving the top of the leg and the
turning gap open as indicated. You will get a better finish if you change thread colour for the
slipper area and the leg area.
4. Clip your curves and turn the leg right side out. Repeat for the other leg.
5. Do not stuff.
6. Baste both legs in position on the body front. Legs should be laying flat against the body front
with the top end of the leg matched with the raw edge of the body. The slipper fronts should be
against the body front.

3
Assembly:
1. Place the body front and the body back right sides together. Pin (leave those
legs tucked inside or poke them out through the turning gap at the waistline if it
makes things easier).
2. Keep the plaits out of the way - try tying the loose ends together with a piece of
thread to help keep them under control.
3. Starting at the top of the head (and remembering to change thread colour for
the hair and skin) sew completely around your doll’s head and body.
4. Clip seams (pay attention to the point where the head joins the body).
5. Turn your doll right sides out through the turning gap in the back. (jiggle those
legs through first).
6. Stuff both the head and body firmly, by stuffing the head first and maintaining firmness through
the neck. Stitch the turning gap closed with a small ladder stitch.
7. Stuff both legs firmly and hand sew the stuffing gaps closed.
8. Stuff both arms firmly and hand sew the stuffing gaps closed.

Face:
1. Embroider your doll’s smile and nose by using two stands of embroidery thread. Tie a knot in
your thread and enter through the back of your dolls head, just under the hair line and exit at the
front on the start of the mouth line. Gently tug your thread so the knot enters the head at the
back, anchoring your thread in the stuffing. Stitch the mouth using backstitch and exit out
through the back of the dolls head again just under the edge of the hair. Stitch one small tight
stitch (under the hair) to secure your thread. Use the same method to embroider the nose.
2. Use the same entry and exit method to embroider eyes if you are not using safety eyes. Stitch the
eyes by first backstitching the outer circle and then filling it with satin stitch.
3. Plait Addie’s hair. Sew across the bottom of the plaits and add ribbons.

Embroidery:
1. Embroidery for the slippers, kitty toy, backpack and eye mask are all worked the same way as the
doll’s face. Use two strands of thread doubled over and work each face using back stitch.

4
 Pyjama top (reversible)

Cut:
From pyjama fabric
• 1 pyjama shirt front on fold
• 1 pyjama shirt back on fold
From lining fabric
• 1 pyjama shirt front on fold
• 1 pyjama shirt back on fold
Binding
• 18 inches

Construction
1. Pin your pyjama shirt front and pyjama shirt back right sides together. Sew both side seams of
your shirt and do not turn right side out.
2. Repeat for the pyjama shirt linings. Turn right sides out.
3. Tuck the lining into the shirt, aligning the top of the shirt and the side seams. Double check that
your shirt and lining are now right sides together. Pin.
4. Starting at the top of a side seam sew completely around top of the shirt. Clip the curves,
especially on the straps and turn right sides out. Press.
5. Bind the bottom edge of your pyjama shirt.
6. Sew velcro into position on the shoulder straps and then topstitch around the top of the shirt.
7. Hand sew buttons to the outside straps of the shirt.

5
 Pyjama pants
Cut:
From shorts fabric
• 2 shorts
From elastic
• 1 piece measuring 14” (36cm)
From binding
• 22 inches

Construction:
1. Begin by binding the cuff edge of each pants leg. If you don’t
want to use binding simply fold up a small double hem and sew
in place.
2. With right sides together, stitch the centre front seam and centre back
seam of pants from A to B.
3. Still with right sides together, align the front and back seams. Stitch the
inside leg seam from the bottom of the leg up to the crotch and down to
the bottom of the other leg.
4. Clip seams.
5. Turn down a double hem at the waist to form casing for elastic. Sew
around the casing leaving a 1 ½ inch gap for threading elastic. Thread
elastic into casing and then gather it to fit your doll’s waist and secure.
6. Stitch casing gap closed. Turn right side out.

6
 Gown
Cut:
From gown fabric
• 1 gown back on fold
• 2 gown fronts (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
• Strip for belt and loops measuring 2 x 40 inches
• 2 sleeves on fold

From pyjama fabric

• 1 under collar on fold
• 2 facings (cut 1, cut 1 reverse). Make sure you have joined the pattern pieces together before
cutting.
Binding
• 78 inches

Construction:
1. With right sides together pin the gown fronts to the gown back at the
shoulder seams. Sew the shoulder seams.
2. Sew around the neckline, less than a ¼ inch from the edge. This will stop the neckline stretching.
3. Pin the under collar in place, starting at the centre back. Pin to point A and then pivot and
continue pinning to point B. Sew the under collar in place.

With right sides together sew the centre back seam of the facings.
4. Fold under a scant ¼ inch to the wrong side of facing on the side marked.
Press in place. Alternatively, you can zig zag this edge.

7
 5. Matching the centre back of the gown with the centre back of the facing, pin the facing in place
WRONG sides together with the gown.
6. Baste the raw gown/facing edge and then sew along the folded edge.

7. Take the belt piece and cut off 6 inches and set aside for the loops.
8. Take the large piece and fold in a ¼” hem on each short end and sew in place. With wrong sides
together, fold it in half lengthways. Press and open out. Now bring each side in to meet at the
middle (like creating bias binding) and fold along the centre enclosing the raw edges. Pin and sew
along the folded edge.
9. Repeat this process for the belt loop piece but there is no need to fold in the hem on the short
edges. Once sewn cut in half, for two belt loops.
10. Pin and sew the loops in position on the right side of the gown back.
11. Bind the cuff edge of both sleeves.
12. With right sides together pin the sleeves in place, matching the centre dots with the shoulder
seams. Sew the sleeves in place.

13. With right sides together, fold the whole gown along the shoulder seams bringing the side seams
together.
14. Pin along the length of the sleeve, underarm and side seam.
15. Sew from the cuff edge, along the sleeve and down to base of gown. Clip and trim seams,
especially at the under arm.
16. Starting at the back of the gown bind all the way around the raw edges.

8
 Kitty toy
Cut:
From fabric
• 2 heads
• 2 bodies
• 4 arms (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
• 4 ears (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
From felt
• 1 nose
From interfacing
• 1 head

Construction

1. Pin or iron your interfacing to the head front.

2. Sew the nose in place by sewing close to the edge.
3. Transfer the face markings.
4. Pin two arms together and sew around leaving the top open. Clip the seam and
turn right side out. Repeat for the other arm.
5. Stuff the arms lightly and baste in position on the body front.
6. Pin two ears together and sew around, leaving the base open. Trim the seam and
turn right sides out. Repeat. Baste the ears in place on the head front.

7. Pin the head front to the body front and sew the neck seam. Repeat for the head and body back.
8. Place the head/body front and the head/body back right sides together and sew around, leaving
a turning gap as indicated.
9. Clip the seams, especially at the neck seam and turn right sides out. Stuff reasonably firmly and
hand sew the turning gap closed. Embroider the face.

9
 Backpack

Cut:
From felt
• 2 pieces measuring 6 1/4 x 1 1/8 inch for the zipper panel
• 1 bottom panel
• 2 backpack front & back panel
• 2 ears
• 2 inner ears
• 1 nose
• 2 strap pieces measuring 7 x 2 inches

Construction
1. Pin and sew the inner ears in place, making sure you are creating a left
and right ear.
2. Pin and sew the nose in place on the front backpack panel.
3. Using the same transfer method as the doll face, mark the face onto the backpack
front. Embroider the face.
4. Pin and baste the ears in place on the front panel by sewing close to the edge (less
than ¼ inch).
5. Take the strap pieces and place them on top of each other. Sewing through both layers, sew two
long thin rectangles, measuring approx 6 ½ x ¼ inch. Sew one long thin rectangle measuring
3 x ¼ inch. Make sure you leave enough space between them to cut. Cut out the rectangles by
cutting close to the outside of your stitching.

6. Baste the long straps in place on the back panel. Fold the shorter strap in half
and baste in place at the centre top of the back panel.

10
 7. Take one zip panel and place the open zip face down on top of it, aligning
the top and the right side. Using a zip foot (or ¼ inch foot) sew along the zip.
Repeat for the other panel on the other side of the zip.
8. Flip the zip over and press the felt away from the zip by hand. Pin. Open
the zip to get the zip-pull out of the way and topstitch along the seam.

9. Place the bottom panel and the zipper panel right side together, aligning the short sides. Pin and
sew, creating a large loop. Trim away excess zip.

10. Now we will pin the front panel to the zipper loop. Make sure you have marked the centre
bottom and centre top points of the front panel.
11. With right sides together, match the centre point of the zipper panel with the centre point at the
top of the front panel and pin.
12. Match the centre point of the bottom panel with the centre point at the bottom of the side panel
and pin.
13. Ease the zipper panel around the front panel, following the shape of the front panel and pinning
as you go. Sew the front panel in place right sides together.

14. Open the zip and pin and sew the other side panel in place, keeping all the straps tucked inside.
15. Turn the backpack right sides out through the zip

11
 Eye mask
Cut:
From fabric
• 1 eye mask front
• 1 eye mask back lower
• 1 eye mask back upper
• 1 piece of fabric measuring 2 x 16” for the elastic casing
From narrow elastic
• 1 piece measuring 10 inches
From light interfacing
• 1 eye mask front
From felt
• 1 nose

Construction:
1. Iron or sew your interfacing to wrong side of the eye mask
2. Sewing close to the edge, sew the nose in place on the eye mask.
3. Using the same transfer method as the doll face, mark the face onto the eye mask front.
Embroider the face.
4. Fold the casing fabric in half lengthways and press. Sew along the long side creating a long
tube and turn right side out.
5. Thread your elastic into the tube and secure it at one end by sewing it in place.
6. Place the eye mask on your doll and check the elastic. Adjust as necessary before
sewing the other end of the elastic in place inside the tube at the other end.
7. Baste the elastic casing in place on the right side of the eye mask front.
8. Place the eye mask upper and lower together and sew along the mid seam,
leaving a turning gap.
9. Press the seam open.
10. Place the eye mask front and back right side together and
sew around. Poke the elastic / casing out through the turning
gap to keep it out of the way.
11. Clip your seams well and turn right side out. Press. Hand sew
the turning gap closed.

12
 Addie
© Jodie Carleton 2019
Head
cut 2

one inch
square
neck seam
for print
accuracy

Arm
cut 4
en
op
e
av
le

stuffing
gap
 Addie
© Jodie Carleton 2019

for top of arm

position
Upper body
Cut 2

neck seam
one inch
square
for print
accuracy

for top of arm

position

g ap
n i n g
Tur
d i e s
U n
cu t 2
 Hair back
Cut 1

Hair front
Measurements
for plaits are
given in the Cut 1
cutting
instructions

Addie
© Jodie Carleton 2019
one inch
square
for print
accuracy
 Addie
Inner
Back pack ear
bottom panel Ear
© Jodie Carleton 2019 cut 1
leave open
one inch

straps are given in the instructions

square

measurements for zip panels &

for print
accuracy

Stuffing
1 2

gap
slipper front
cut 2 felt

Ear
Ea
r
Bp e
no
s Leg
str
ap
ap
s t r
cut 4

Backpack
strap
front & back panel strap
cut 2
 velcro

Cut 2 on fold
Pyjama shirt back
Fold

Fold
Pyjama shirt front

Cut 2 on fold

Addie
one inch © Jodie Carleton 2019
square
for print o
velc
r
accuracy

Eye mask back upper

Cut 1
Mid seam

Mid seam Mid seam

turning gap

Eye mask back lower

Cut 1
fold lines for elastic casing A
Addie

centre front and back seam

© Jodie Carleton 2019
Pyjama leg
Cut 2
(Cut1, cut 1 reverse)
Fold

one inch
square
for print
accuracy

Cuff edge
 Should
er sea
m
Addie
© Jodie Carleton 2019

B
A

Gown front
Cut 2
(Cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

front of gown
one inch
square
side seam

for print
accuracy
 Sho
ulde
r se
am

Addie
© Jodie Carleton 2019

Gown back
Cut 1 on fold
Fold

Side seam

one inch
square
for print
accuracy
 Addie
© Jodie Carleton 2019

Gown
Under collar
Fold

Cut 1 on fold B

one inch
square
for print
accuracy
Gown
Fold

Sleeve
cut 2 on fold
Slipper back
cut 2 felt
Cuff edge
 Front

join
of gow
n

square
for print
one inch

accuracy
join
to pi

here
cove
r the ece 2
d (c
Go
and ark line w
tape ut n
1, C fa
Fo cu ut cin
ld
lin t 2 g
ef 1
or 1
tur
nin
gu
r ev
nd
er er
Front of gown se
)
Gown facing 2
join to piece 1
cover the dark line
and tape

join here
ce
nt
re
ba
ck
se
cutting fabric
must be taped

am
together before
These two pieces
 Addie ea
r ear
© Jodie Carleton 2019 Kitty head
cut 2

Strap
Eye mask
front
cut 1

neck seam

nose
cut 1 Arm neck Arm
seam

Kitty body
Cut 2

Turning ga
Strap

p
Kitty arm
cut 4

Kitty ear
cut 4

one inch
square
for print
accuracy