Dog Organizer Amigurumi Pattern

Difficulty Level: Intermediate This pattern provides detailed instructions to create a cute dog-shaped
organizer/basket amigurumi. You should be familiar with basic crochet techniques (single crochet, increase,
decrease, slip stitch).

Abbreviations Used:

• MR: Magic Ring

• ch: Chain
• sc: Single Crochet
• hdc: Half Double Crochet
• dc: Double Crochet
• inc: Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
• dec: Decrease (single crochet 2 together)
• sl st: Slip Stitch
• BLO: Back Loop Only
• FLO: Front Loop Only
• (...) x repeat: Repeat the instructions in parentheses the specified number of times.
• [ ]: Total number of stitches at the end of the round/row.
• *: An asterisk indicates the number of repeats in parentheses (e.g., (sc, inc)*6 repeat (single crochet,
increase) 6 times).

Materials Needed:

• Brown amigurumi yarn (main color for the dog)

• Black amigurumi yarn (for nose and paw details)
• Appropriate size crochet hook (between 4.0 mm - 7.0 mm, suitable for your yarn thickness and personal
tension. It's important to achieve a tight crochet fabric.)
• Black safety eyes (approximately 15-20 mm in size)
• Fiberfill stuffing (for filling - a small amount for the head and legs, approximately 50-100 grams
recommended.)
• Tapestry needle (for sewing and weaving in ends)
• Scissors
• Stitch marker (to mark the beginning of a round)
• Support Material (Optional): To help the organizer maintain its shape, stiff felt, plastic bases, or
cardboard pieces can be placed under the baskets (especially for the bases of the inner baskets). This
will make the product more durable.
• Optional Weight Material: Small beads or pebbles to place inside the legs (to prevent the organizer
from tipping over).

Size Adjustments:

• To enlarge: Use thicker t-shirt yarn or velvet yarn + 7.0 mm or larger hook, or proportionally increase
the number of increases in each round.
• To reduce: Use thinner amigurumi yarn + 3.0-4.0 mm hook, and proportionally decrease the number of
increases.

Safety Note (For Children):

• If this organizer will be used within reach of small children, embroidered (stitched) eyes should be
preferred instead of safety eyes.

SECTION 1: DOG PARTS

1. Dog Body / Main Basket Section (with Brown Yarn):

This section will form the main structure and baskets of the organizer. It will start with a large oval base and rise
vertically.

Starting (Oval Base): Chain 25 with brown yarn.

• Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook: 23 sc, 3 sc in the last chain (for turning), continue
with 22 sc on the other side of the chain, 2 sc in the last stitch. [50]
• Row 2: 1 inc, 22 sc, 3 inc, 22 sc, 2 inc. [56]
• Row 3: 1 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) x 3, 22 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) x 2. [62]
• Row 4: 2 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc, (2 sc, 1 inc) x 3, 22 sc, (2 sc, 1 inc) x 2. [68]
• Row 5: 3 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc, (3 sc, 1 inc) x 3, 22 sc, (3 sc, 1 inc) x 2. [74]
• Row 6: 4 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x 3, 22 sc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x 2. [80]
• Row 7: 5 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc, (5 sc, 1 inc) x 3, 22 sc, (5 sc, 1 inc) x 2. [86]
• Row 8: 6 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc, (6 sc, 1 inc) x 3, 22 sc, (6 sc, 1 inc) x 2. [92]
• Row 9: 7 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc, (7 sc, 1 inc) x 3, 22 sc, (7 sc, 1 inc) x 2. [98]
• Row 10: 8 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc, (8 sc, 1 inc) x 3, 22 sc, (8 sc, 1 inc) x 2. [104]
• Row 11: 1 sc in each stitch (work in BLO). [104] This row forms the base and allows the basket to start
rising vertically.
• Rows 12-25: 1 sc in each stitch. (work 14 rows straight) [104] This section forms the main height of the
basket. If you want a deeper basket, you can increase the number of rows. Cut the yarn, leaving a long
tail, and fasten off.

Approximate Measurement: This piece will be approximately 25-30 cm long, 15-18 cm wide, and 10-15 cm
high.

Tip: Ensure your stitches are tight to make sure the basket is sturdy and can hold items. The main body is
generally not stuffed, but you can use support material for the base.

2. Dog Head (with Brown Yarn - For Long Snout Structure):

To achieve a longer and more prominent snout for the dog, the head construction includes the following
adjustment:

Starting: 6 sc in a Magic Ring. [6]

• Round 1: Inc in each stitch. [12]

• Round 2: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6. [18]
• Round 3: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6. [24]
• Round 4: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6. [30]
• Round 5: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6. [36]
• Round 6: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6. [42]
• Round 7: (6 sc, 1 inc) x 6. [48]
• Round 8: (7 sc, 1 inc) x 6. [54]
• Round 9: (8 sc, 1 inc) x 6. [60]
• Rounds 10-22: 1 sc in each stitch. (work 13 rows straight) [60] This length creates the elongated
structure towards the dog's snout. Attach Eyes: Insert safety eyes between rows 14-15, approximately
4 cm above the nose and about 6 cm apart. (When making holes for safety eyes, use a thin awl or hook
to avoid damaging the yarn, and refrain from using scissors.)
• Round 23: (8 sc, 1 dec) x 6. [54]
• Round 24: (7 sc, 1 dec) x 6. [48]
• Round 25: (6 sc, 1 dec) x 6. [42]
• Round 26: (5 sc, 1 dec) x 6. [36]
• Round 27: (4 sc, 1 dec) x 6. [30] Start to lightly stuff the head with fiberfill. Stuff to medium firmness;
it should not be too hard or too soft.
• Round 28: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6. [24]
 • Round 29: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6. [18] Finish stuffing. Leave a long tail, thread it through the remaining
stitches with a tapestry needle, pull tightly to close the hole, and weave in the end.

Approximate Measurement: The head will be approximately 12-14 cm long (from snout tip to back of head)
and 10-12 cm in diameter.

Tip: When stuffing the head, carefully shape the nose and muzzle area. Apply enough fiberfill to this area to
maintain the long snout structure.

3. Nose (with Black Yarn):

Starting: 6 sc in a Magic Ring. [6]

• Round 1: Inc in each stitch. [12]

• Round 2: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6. [18]
• Round 3: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6. [24]
• Rounds 4-5: 1 sc in each stitch. (work 2 rows straight) [24] Leave a long tail, lightly stuff, and sew to
the head. You can embroider nostril details with black yarn.

Approximate Measurement: The nose will be approximately 3-4 cm in diameter.

Tip: For more detailed nostril features, use thin black embroidery floss.

4. Ears (with Brown Yarn) - Make 2:

Starting: 6 sc in a Magic Ring. [6]

• Round 1: Inc in each stitch. [12]

• Round 2: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6. [18]
• Round 3: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6. [24]
• Rounds 4-15: 1 sc in each stitch. (work 12 rows straight) [24]
• Round 16: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6. [18]
• Round 17: 1 sc in each stitch. [18] Do not stuff the ears; they should remain flat. You can fold them in
half and single crochet through both layers to close. Leave a long tail and sew to the head.

Approximate Measurement: Each ear will be approximately 10-12 cm long.

Tip: Sew the ears to the sides of the head, close to eye level, to capture the dog's characteristic look.

5. Tail (with Brown Yarn):

Starting: 6 sc in a Magic Ring. [6]

• Round 1: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 3. [9]

• Rounds 2-20: 1 sc in each stitch. (work 19 rows straight) [9] Lightly stuff the tail. Leave a long tail and
sew to the back of the body.

Approximate Measurement: The tail will be approximately 8-10 cm long.

Tip: For a more realistic look, you can attach a few strands of yarn to the tip of the tail to create a tassel effect.

6. Legs (with Brown Yarn) - Make 4:

Starting: 6 sc in a Magic Ring. [6]

 • Round 1: Inc in each stitch. [12]
• Round 2: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6. [18]
• Round 3: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6. [24]
• Round 4 (Paw Color Change): Switch to black yarn. 1 sc in each stitch. [24]
• Round 5: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6. [18]
• Round 6: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6. [12]
• Round 7: With black yarn, 1 sc in each stitch. [12]
• Round 8: 1 sc in each stitch (work in BLO only). [12]
• Round 9: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 3. [9]
• Round 10: 1 sc in each stitch. [9] Lightly stuff the feet with fiberfill. You can add small weights (like
beads or pebbles) inside the legs to prevent the organizer from tipping over. Leave a long tail, thread
through the remaining stitches to close the hole, and close the foot. You can embroider small lines on
the paws with black yarn.

Approximate Measurement: Each leg will be approximately 8-10 cm high.

Tip: Avoid stuffing the legs too tightly to allow the dog organizer to stand stably. Use thin black yarn for paw
details.

7. Inner Basket Compartments (with Brown Yarn) - (3 Large, 2 Small, or as Needed):

The sizes of these compartments are adjusted to fit inside the main body. The photo shows three large and two
small compartments. Each compartment will be crocheted separately and then sewn into the main body.
Supporting the bases of these compartments with stiff felt or cardboard will make them more sturdy.

Large Basket (Example for 3 pieces):

Base (Oval): Chain 10.

• Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook: 8 sc, 3 sc in the last chain, continue with 7 sc on the
other side, 2 sc in the last stitch. [20]
• Row 2: 1 inc, 7 sc, 3 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc. [26]
• Row 3: 1 sc in each stitch (work in BLO). [26] This row allows the basket to rise vertically.
• Rows 4-10: 1 sc in each stitch. (work 7 rows straight) [26] Leave a long tail and fasten off.

Approximate Measurement: Large baskets will be approximately 8-10 cm long, 5-6 cm wide, and 7-8 cm high.
When 3 large baskets are sewn side-by-side, their total length should be approximately 25-30 cm, fitting within
the main body.

Small Basket (Example for 2 pieces):

Base (Oval/Round): Chain 8.

• Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook: 6 sc, 3 sc in the last chain, continue with 5 sc on the
other side, 2 sc in the last stitch. [16]
• Row 2: 1 inc, 5 sc, 3 inc, 5 sc, 2 inc. [22]
• Row 3: 1 sc in each stitch (work in BLO). [22]
• Rows 4-8: 1 sc in each stitch. (work 5 rows straight) [22] Leave a long tail and fasten off.

Approximate Measurement: Small baskets will be approximately 6-7 cm long, 4-5 cm wide, and 5-6 cm high.

Hole/Handle Detail (Optional): For the small gripping holes seen on the sides of the small baskets, when
crocheting the basket (e.g., in row 4), you can chain 2-3 and skip 2-3 stitches, then continue the row. In the next
row, work 3 sc over the chain to create the hole. Example: "In Row 4, chain 3, skip 3 stitches. In the next row,
work 3 sc over the chain."
SECTION 2: ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING TOUCHES

• Sewing the Head to the Body: Securely sew the dog's head to the front of the body, positioning it like
a neck. You can use an "invisible stitch" or "joining stitch" for a cleaner finish when joining the pieces.
There isn't a separate neck-like piece crocheted between the head and body; the head is sewn directly to
the body. Use multiple layers of stitching to reinforce the connection.
• Attaching the Nose: Sew the black nose to the tip of the head and embroider the nostril details. For
nostril details, you can embroider two small vertical lines with thin black embroidery floss.
• Sewing the Ears: Sew the ears to the sides of the head, allowing them to hang down as shown in the
picture.
• Sewing the Tail: Sew the tail to the back of the body.
• Sewing the Legs: Sew the four legs to the bottom of the body, spaced evenly, ensuring the dog stands
stably. Sew the front legs approximately 10 cm apart and the back legs approximately 12 cm apart.
Ensure the legs are securely attached to the body and the organizer stands balanced. Test the balance on
a flat surface before sewing.
• Attaching Inner Basket Compartments: Place the crocheted basket compartments inside the main
body. If desired, you can insert stiff supports into their bases at this stage. You can place and glue felt or
cardboard to the bases. Carefully sew each compartment into the main body and to each other to secure
them. Pin the inner baskets in place before sewing them to the main body. Join the edges of adjacent
baskets with an invisible stitch. Secure each compartment to the base and sides of the main body with
an invisible stitch. This will help the organizer maintain its shape.

SECTION 3: TECHNIQUES AND TIPS

• Magic Ring (MR): A fundamental technique used to start amigurumi, creating a closed circle in the
center.
• Single Crochet (sc): The most basic stitch in crochet.
• Increase (inc): Working two single crochets into the same stitch to increase the stitch count. This
causes the fabric to expand.
• Decrease (dec): Working two single crochets together to reduce the stitch count. This causes the fabric
to narrow. Invisible decreases result in a neater finished product. (Neater decreases can be achieved by
decreasing through the front loops only.)
• Slip Stitch (sl st): Used to finish a round or join two pieces.
• BLO (Back Loop Only) / FLO (Front Loop Only): Crocheting by inserting the hook into only the
back or front loop of a stitch. This is used specifically to create seams or certain textures. (Using BLO
for the leg base helps the legs stand more neatly.)
• Fiberfill Stuffing: When stuffing pieces, ensure the fiberfill is evenly distributed and avoid over-
stuffing or under-stuffing. Over-stuffing will stretch the piece, while under-stuffing will leave it
shapeless.

SECTION 4: CARE INSTRUCTIONS

• Cleaning: You can hand wash your amigurumi with cold water and a mild detergent. Avoid machine
washing.
• Drying: Gently squeeze out excess water and let it air dry on a towel, away from direct sunlight. Turn it
occasionally to help maintain its shape.
• Storage: Keep away from direct sunlight and humidity to prevent colors from fading and the structure
from deteriorating.
SECTION 5: TIPS AND TROUBLESHOOTING

Yarn Changing and Finishing Tips: When changing colors or finishing yarn, to make stitches invisible and
hide yarn ends more effectively, try finishing the last stitch with the new color and securing the old yarn inside.

Common Problems and Solutions:

• If your piece is not the expected size: Check your hook size or tension (tight/loose crochet). Change
your hook size if necessary.
• If you have gaps in your stitches: Ensure you are crocheting more tightly or using a smaller hook.
• Deformations: Ensure the fiberfill is evenly and sufficiently distributed during stuffing.

Good luck and happy crocheting!