Insta-Test 5 Pool and Spa

Owner’s Handbook
Congratulations on selecting the easiest way to
obtain reliable water test results. The Insta-Test 5
test strips were developed specifically for use in pool
and spa water by the first company in the United
States to produce field test kits for pH. Since 1919
the LaMotte Company of Chestertown, Maryland
has played a key role in developing simplified
methods to help professional analysts monitor water
quality. The Insta-Test strips are a combination of
the best available analytical chemistry in a form that
is so simple and convenient anyone can use it.
To learn more about the company’s professional
products you can visit our web site at
www.lamotte.com or learn more about our test strips
at www.lamotte.com/insta. Please note that the
information in this manual is also on our web site so
if you ever misplace this valuable reference just look
on the Insta-Test 5 strip label to find our web site
name.

LaMotte Company
PO Box 329 • Chestertown • Maryland • 21620
410-778-3100 • Fax 410-778-6394

© 1999 LaMotte Company • 802 Washington Ave. • Chestertown, MD 21620 • (410) 778-3100
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Chapter 1:
Why you should test the water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Chapter 2:
Using the 5-way test strip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Chapter 3:
The role of each primary test factor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Chlorine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Bromine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
pH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Total Alkalinity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Total Hardness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Chapter 4:
The importance of other water test factors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Cyanuric Acid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Total Dissolved Solids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Metals (copper, iron, & manganese) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Nitrate and Phosphate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Chapter 5:
Trouble shooting water problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Algae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Cloudy water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Colored water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Stains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Scale formations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Eye & skin irritations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Filtration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Chapter 6:
Water treatment tables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Calculating pool or spa volume . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Adjusting pH. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Adjusting chlorine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Adjusting alkalinity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Adjusting hardness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Adjusting cyanuric acid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Recording your test results. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
WHY YOU SHOULD TEST THE WATER
The two most important reasons to test the water.
#1 To protect the bather
The goal of every pool and spa owner is sparkling, clean water.
Unfortunately a variety of undesirable substances will often enter a pool or
spa. Such items can make the water unhealthy. There are bacteria on
every person’s body that can get into water; some forms can cause
infections or rashes. Bather perspiration and urine break down to
undesirable nitrogen compounds and Mother Nature can also contribute
rain, algae spores, leaves and other organic materials. All of these
necessitate the use of a sanitizer such as chlorine. The Insta-Test 5 color
chart shows the ideal range for Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine in
swimming pools. Spa owners should keep in mind that the ideal Free
Chlorine range in spas (hot tubs) is between 2 and 4 ppm.
#2 To protect the pool or spa
Everything that contacts water is affected by the chemistry of the water
itself. The surfaces of the pool or spa, the heater, the filter, the steps, and
the pump can be damaged if the water is either corrosive or scale forming.
The goal of the water analyst is to keep the water “in balance” so it does
not damage the pool and its equipment. By maintaining each test factor of
pH, Alkalinity and Hardness within the “Ideal Range” [shown on the test
strip color chart] the water will not harm the pool or spa surfaces and
components.

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Additional reasons to routinely test your water.
In addition to the obvious goal of determining what treatment chemicals
are needed to protect the bather and the pool there are a variety of other
good reasons to test the water.
How much treatment chemical to add - By testing the water and
using the treatment tables found in the back of this book, or on the
chemical product label, the analyst can closely predict how much
treatment chemicals are needed. This avoids a costly overdose of
chemicals that can create larger problems than the original one.
Total Alkalinity - To avoid undesirable changes in the pH level the
alkalinity must be maintained in the ideal range near 100 ppm. Total
alkalinity helps to stabilize the pH of the water so chemical treatments or
environmental conditions will not rapidly raise or lower the pH to a
damaging level. Such changes can also occur after adding large doses of
chlorine since one form of chlorine may have a very low pH while another
a very high pH. If the pH of your source water is high or low, consult with
a pool professional to select a type
of chlorine or sanitizer that makes sense for
your water and the environmental conditions.
Total Chlorine - If the Total Chlorine level
ever exceeds the Free Chlorine level,
a superchlorination or shock treatment
is needed. This is because undesirable
ammonia or nitrogen compounds have
“combined” with the Free Chlorine to
make the sanitizer much less active and
create odor and swimmer irritation.
Total Hardness - When a hardness
level is too low it can cause corrosion.
If it is too high, it can settle or “drop out”
of solution as chalky white or tan colored
deposits on component surfaces.
These deposits, often referred to as
“scale,” could eventually lead to clogged
pipes, damaged motors, heaters
and filters.

3
USING THE 5-WAY TEST STRIP
It is important to carefully read the instructions on the test strip bottle for
proper use. In order to consistently obtain accurate results there are several
tips that help the user. For example, the reason the instruction says to read
starting with Chlorine (Cl) at the top is because the pH and Hardness
pads need a few extra seconds to fully develop (about 10 to 15). By the
time the strip is removed from the water and the initial three test factors
are carefully read, the colors for pH and Hardness are then ready for
inspection. Note that a color that develops may be between two color
chart values. If this happens record the result as the number in between
the values shown. Also note the Bromine values are printed in hot pink or
magenta just below the Free Chlorine values printed in black. Below are
explanations as to why some of the instructions and tips are important to
follow.
Instruction:
1. Immerse strip. SWIRL 3 TIMES.
Why? Exposes each pad to
the correct amount
of pool/spa water.

2. Remove with pads face up.

Why? Hold strip level
to avoid reactant
from one pad running
into another pad.

3. DO NOT SHAKE OFF EXCESS WATER.

Read immediately Cl->TCl-> etc.
Why? This could shake off the colored reaction. Read reactions in
sequence to allow the proper reaction time for each pad.

4
Tips
Keep wet fingers out of the bottle. Strip pads will react if they get wet so shake
out a strip and pick it up with dry fingers.
Close vial tightly after removing strip. To keep moisture out of bottle press down
the center of the cap to seal it quickly after
removing a strip.
Immerse strip to a depth of 12"-18". In pools, this assures a representative sample
of the pool water and not just the surface
where evaporation takes place. In spas, swirl
with the jets not running.
Read in natural daylight. Use under sodium vapor bulbs can make
color matching difficult.
Store in a cool, dry place. Indoors is best since extreme heat and
moisture could reduce the shelf-life of the
strips.

The PopTop lid

The unique PopTop closure comes with a molded desiccant sleeve insert.
This eliminates the need for a desiccant pillow and provides more
protection for strips from moisture. Do not remove the sleeve. A properly
closed vial is 100% leak proof and airtight.
Simple Do’s and Don’ts
In addition to the important tips on the bottle here are some key DO’s and
DON’Ts to remember.
DO’s
1. Use the test strip “on-site” and swirl in a one-foot circle.
2. Always read the result promptly after swirling and lifting it level from
the water.
3. Always remove sunglasses since they can make color matching more
difficult.
Don’ts
1. Never dip the strip next to a make-up water inlet, return line or a
chemical feeder.
2. Never test the water prior to one complete filter cycle after a large
amount of chemical has been added.
3. Never swirl a strip in spa water with the air jets running.

5
THE ROLE OF EACH PRIMARY
TEST FACTOR
Sanitizers - Protecting the Bather
A sanitizer must work quickly and efficiently to keep the water
environment as healthy for 2 bathers as for 200 bathers. There are many
sanitizing systems available. The most common pool sanitizer is chlorine
and the most common spa sanitizer is bromine. Both sanitizers are
excellent oxidizers which means they destroy or “burn out” contaminants
in the water. There are “alternative” sanitizers available which use small
amounts of chlorine or bromine to support their system and some that do
not use chlorine or bromine at all. For those that recommend small
amounts of chlorine or bromine be present, just maintain a test result on
the free chlorine pad with a very faint pink color. If the pad shows a light
yellow color, the result is zero and more sanitizer is needed.

CHLORINE
When chlorine enters the water it is in a form that is an active sanitizer
and an oxidizer, called “free chlorine”. It will react with any number of
contaminants in the water. When it reacts with ammonia compounds in
the water, which come from bathers’ perspiration and urine, it becomes
“combined chlorine”. In this form, chlorine is a much slower sanitizer. It is
also this form that causes chlorine odor and eye irritation. When using the
5-way strip, the difference between the free chlorine reading (pad 1) and
the total chlorine reading (pad 2) is combined chlorine.
When the total chlorine reading is higher than the free chlorine reading,
it is time to oxidize or destroy the combined chlorine. The simplest way is
to increase the chlorine level in the pool to 10 ppm. This higher level of
chlorine will oxidize or eliminate the combined chlorine and is called
superchlorination or shock treating. Use the chlorine treatment table
found in the back of this book to determine how much chlorine should be
added based on the volume of water in your pool or spa.

6
There are also non-chlorine shocks available, such as potassium
monopersulfate and sodium dipersulfate. They will eliminate combined
chlorine but keep in mind that these non-chlorine shocks are oxidizers
only, not sanitizers. They eliminate organic wastes but do not sanitize so
chlorine or bromine must be added to maintain an adequate sanitizer
level.
Stabilizing your Free Chlorine
In an outdoor swimming pool, use of a chlorine stabilizer (cyanuric acid) is
usually recommended to reduce the degradation of free chlorine by
sunlight. Cyanuric acid acts like a shield for chlorine from ultraviolet
light. It can be added by itself, usually at an initial dose of 30-40 ppm, or
cyanuric acid is added as part of a chlorine compound. Two forms of
chlorine that contain cyanuric acid are known as dichloro-isocyanuric
acid (dichlor) and trichloro-isocyanuric acid (trichlor). When these are
added to water they form free chlorine and cyanuric acid. Since trichlor
has more active chlorine and stabilizer it usually cost more.
There are three common unstabilized forms of chlorine which are sodium
hypochlorite (liquid bleach), calcium hypochlorite(cal-hypo) and lithium
hypochlorite. These are normally used for indoor pools, for
superchlorination treatments or when cyanuric acid levels get too high.
Chlorine Demand
The National Spa and Pool Institute defines chlorine demand as “the
amount of chlorine that will be consumed by readily oxidizable impurities
in water”. In simpler terms if one adds a 3 ppm dosage of chlorine and
promptly test to find only 2 ppm is on hand, the water had a 1 ppm
demand. Many things contribute to chlorine demand such as bacteria,
organics like dirt and leaves, fertilizers including nitrate and phosphate,
and bather wastes. When opening a pool in the spring or after a heavy
storm, expect higher than usual chlorine demands. Once the demand is
met, the remaining free chlorine residual is there to take care of additional
demand.

The ideal free chlorine range for pools

is 1-3 ppm and for spas is 2-4 ppm.

7
Chlorine Treatment Compounds
% Available
Trade Name(Proper Name) Chlorine pH
Liquid Chlorine (Sodium Hypochlorite) 12% 13.0
Litho (Lithium Hypochlorite) 35% 10.7
Cal Hypo (Calcium Hypochlorite) 65% 11.8
Dichlor (Sodium Dichloro-s-triazinetrione Dihydrate) 56% 6.0
Dichlor (Sodium Dichloro-s-triazinetrione Anhydrous) 62% 6.0
Trichlor (Trichloro-s-triazinetrione) 90% 3.0

BROMINE
There are two types of bromine systems. One is a solid tablet form that is
added to a skimmer and which feeds sanitizer into the passing water as it
slowly dissolves. It contains both bromine and chlorine. The function of
the chlorine is to make more bromine when the bromine is used up.
The second system uses a bromide salt which requires the addition of a
separate oxidizer such as chlorine, ozone or non-chlorine shock.
When bromine is added to water, it forms free bromine. Like chlorine, free
bromine can also combine with ammonia compounds, but the combined
bromine reacts about as quickly as free bromine. Thus, there is no need to
distinguish between free and combined bromine. A bromine system should
be shocked with 10 ppm of chlorine periodically. Spa owners may need to
do this frequently so check with your local chemical supplier for advice.
Read bromine using pad 1 on the test strip. Note the magenta (hot pink)
values just below the black free chlorine values represent the bromine test
result.

The ideal range for Bromine in pools

and spas is 3-6 ppm.

8
Water Balance - Protecting the Pool or Spa
Since most water has the tendency to either corrode or leave small crusty
“scale” deposits on objects that it contacts, it is important to properly
balance the factors of pH, total alkalinity and hardness. Depending on
where you live, the water can contain a variety of minerals. These
minerals directly affect whether the water will corrode, scale or be in
balance. In addition to pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness,
temperature plays a role in water balance and must be considered when
determining ideal levels in pools or spas. This is because in warmer water
minerals tend to fall out of solution more rapidly thus leaving behind scale
deposits. For example, in 60 degree pool water, a good practice would be to
keep the pH level closer to 7.6 if the alkalinity and hardness are in the
ideal range, but in 80 degree pool water a pH of 7.3 would be best.
A professional pool and spa retailer can provide a “saturation index”
calculation to target your ideal pH level.

pH
pH is the measure of the acidity of the water. The pH scale extends from
0 to 14 with 7 being neutral. As one moves down below 7.0, the water
becomes more acidic and tends to be corrosive; as one moves up above 7.0,
the water becomes less acidic (or more basic) and could lead to a scale
forming condition. Note that a high pH level, above 7.8, will inhibit the
ability of free chlorine to sanitize water efficiently. If your water source has
a high pH, the form of chlorine selected can actually help to lower the pH.
(For example: If your water source is a pH of 8.2 you may wish to use
Trichlor since it has a pH of 3.0). For several reasons, including bather
comfort, the ideal pH of pool or spa water is 7.2 - 7.6.
When using the 5-way strip read pad 4 to determine pH. Keep your results
in the orange, ideal range, colors. If the color turns yellow add pH
increaser as shown in the charts at the end of this book. If the pH is not up
to the ideal range within 24 hours, add more pH increaser or consult a
local pool professional since the pH could be far below pH 6.8 and in need
of serious attention. The same process should be followed if the pH
remains high after you have added acid to bring it down into the ideal
range. Note: If the pH test pad ever turns purple it means the chlorine or
bromine level is well above 10 ppm. Bathers should not enter the water
until the chlorine or bromine level is below 10 ppm.

9
If pH Is Too LOW (Acidic)
n corrosion of pool equipment/staining
n swimmer eye irritation
n etching plaster pool surfaces
n chlorine dissipates quickly
The ideal pH
If pH Is Too HIGH (Basic) range for pools
n scale accumulates on pool equipment and spas is 7.2 -
n cloudy, turbid water 7.6.
n chlorine sanitizing power is weakened
n swimmer eye irritation

TOTAL ALKALINITY
Total alkalinity refers to the buffering capacity of the water or how well
the water can resist changes in pH. If the alkalinity is too low, the pH can
virtually change daily. This is known as “pH bounce” and leaves the pool
and spa water vulnerable to pH problems from chlorine treatments,
environmental conditions and even from fresh make-up water. Low
alkalinity water will tend to be corrosive, thus eroding pool surfaces and
equipment.
LOW If there is too much alkalinity, the pH may
ALKALINITY also drift to a very high pH level. It then
Allows pH to bounce
becomes very difficult to reduce the pH and
pH the water may be cloudy and be prone to
Value scaling.
IDEAL When using the 5-way strip use pad 3 to
ALKALINITY determine the total alkalinity result. Try to
Allows proper pH control
keep your results in the blue-green color
pH range and treat the water promptly if it falls
Value
outside the ideal range. Note that when
HIGH raising or lowering the alkalinity level the pH
ALKALINITY of the water will normally also be affected
Usually means a high pH
and is hard to adjust respectively. Be sure to check the pH level
pH carefully within 24 hours after any significant
Value alkalinity treatment.

The ideal alkalinity range for pools and spas is 80

-120 ppm (100-150 if using cyanuric acid).

10
TOTAL HARDNESS
Total Hardness refers to the level of dissolved calcium and magnesium in
the water. The most common contributor of hardness to the water is from
the source water used to fill or top off the pool or spa. Other sources
include forms of chlorine, such as calcium hypochlorite, and the
intentional addition of calcium chloride. Owners of plaster pools should
make concerted efforts to avoid low hardness levels especially when
opening a new pool. This is because water is, by nature, a “universal
solvent” and if the hardness level is too low the plaster can be rapidly
dissolved from the pool walls. In other types of pools or spas it is important
to keep hardness levels at adequate levels so other hardware components
such as heaters and plumbing will not be etched or dissolved.
If the hardness level gets too high, the water can become cloudy and scale
may form on pool surfaces and equipment. Scale will appear as small white
deposits at the water level on walls, on ladders and numerous other places
that the owner may not see. If left uncorrected, scale can clog pipes and
filters as well as damage heaters.
Fortunately there is a point where water is no longer corrosive or scale
forming. By keeping the hardness, alkalinity and pH factors within their
ideal range the water is balanced and the pool or spa will provide many
years of trouble free use.
When using the 5-way strip use pad 5 (near the handle) to determine the
Total Hardness level. Note that this pad is the last to be viewed so allow
10-15 seconds after completing the three swirls before reading the result. If
hardness is too high, the best option is to dilute it with fresh water that is
low in hardness. If the hardness level is too low, add calcium chloride to
the pool or spa as recommended in the treatment tables in the back of this
book. Carefully read the precautions for use since mixing calcium chloride
and water in a bucket can generate a very warm solution.

The ideal total hardness range for pools is

250-500 ppm and spas 200-350 ppm.

11
THE IMPORTANCE OF OTHER WATER TEST
FACTORS
The following test factors may occasionally be a factor in your water
management program. Learning about them will make it easier to
understand why a pool professional may be asking you to take actions
which will protect your pool or spa from an undesirable water condition.
Except for temperature, most of these tests are done solely by pool pros
either in a retail store or on-site. This chapter will also help the pool or spa
owner identify what symptoms may lead to future problems. See also, the
Trouble-shooting Water Problems guide in chapter 5.

CYANURIC ACID
Cyanuric acid is used solely to protect chlorine from UV degradation by
sunlight. In sun-belt regions higher levels are common due to the user’s
eagerness to protect their chlorine and because cyanuric acid does not
dissipate by itself. The only way to reduce cyanuric acid levels is by adding
fresh water. Since health agencies feel high levels of cyanuric acid may
inhibit the reactivity of free chlorine most pool owners are directed to stay
below 150 ppm. Have the cyanuric acid level tested monthly by a pool pro
in the area especially if free chlorine is rapidly lost or the pool has been on
dichlor or trichlor (chlorines that contain cyanuric acid) for a year or
more.

Ideal range for pools is 30 -100 ppm

- regional needs vary.

12
TEMPERATURE
While water temperature is an important comfort factor for bathers it can
also play a small role in possibly accelerating corrosion or scale formations.
In warmer water substances are more likely to precipitate out of solution
and contribute to a scale forming condition. At colder temperatures water
is more prone to corrosion if it does not have adequate minerals. When
visiting a pool store to get a comprehensive water analysis be sure to read
your thermometer when taking the pool sample since the temperature of
the water is factored into what is calculated as the saturation index. The
saturation index is a numerical assessment of the potential for the water to
cause corrosion or deposit scale.

Ideal Temperature for pools is 75-85°

(and spas 95-104°).

TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS (TDS)

A total dissolved solids reading simply indicates the amount of dissolved
substances or minerals in the water. These come from the original water
supply and from treatment chemicals. As water evaporates the dissolved
solids remain behind and over time keep increasing. A high dissolved
solids level can lead to corrosion. So if the water exceeds 2,000 ppm,
investigate ways to replace a portion of the water supply. Most pool stores
have a dissolved solids meter designed to measure TDS in seconds.

Ideal for pools and spas is less than 2,000 ppm.

METALS (copper, iron, manganese)

Metals are normally tested to avoid colored water and stains on pool or spa
surfaces. Since stains from dissolved metals are so troublesome to remove,
most pool professionals like to test for at least copper and iron in the spring
or several times a year for safety’s sake. Copper will tend to stain surfaces
(including hair) blue-green and can color water a not so charming
aquamarine after a high chlorine dosage. Iron can leave stains of a brown
or rusty color and can turn water green or brown following a chlorine dose.

13
Manganese is much more rare than copper or iron but can leave behind
blackish specs on the walls and components. Pool professionals normally
recommend metal sequestering agents to remove unwanted metals before
they cause problems. Note that some sanitation systems use copper
treatment compounds to inhibit algae growth. When those forms of
copper are properly maintained or chelated (bound in a form that cannot
fall out and cause problems) they can provide a useful service. Most pool
stores have ways to test for metals but keep in mind the analysis may take
several minutes so be patient.

Ideal level for pools and spas

is less than 0.3 ppm for each.

NITRATE AND PHOSPHATE

Nitrate and phosphate are the two building blocks for algae. Fortunately if
one is eliminated the other cannot produce algae on its own. However, if
high amounts of nitrates are present they can produce a tremendous
chlorine demand which means the owner may add a 5 day supply of
chlorine one morning and find it gone that afternoon. This occurrence is
more common in seasonal pools that have just been reopened since
nitrates may have entered the water from leaves or debris that were
recently removed. Other sources of nitrate intrusion come from well water
supplies and localized spraying of garden or crop fertilizers. Because one
can only remove nitrates by draining the water, some manufacturers have
focused on removing the other algae nutrient, phosphate. A variety of
phosphate removal systems have been introduced to eliminate the
potential for algae. Phosphates can enter the water from municipal water
supplies (where they are used for corrosion control) and from some forms
of metal sequestering agents as they break down from organo-phosphonate
to ortho-phosphate. By maintaining a constant 1.0 ppm or higher level of
free chlorine in the pool or spa, algae should normally not be a problem. If
algae develop, promptly see a pool professional.

Ideal range for pools and spas is less than 10 ppm

Nitrate and 100 ppb Phosphate.

14
TROUBLE-SHOOTING WATER PROBLEMS
ALGAE
Algae is probably the most annoying water problem in outdoor pools since
it is so unsightly and difficult to destroy quickly. In many cases, several
treatments and daily brushing may be required to successfully eliminate an
algae problem. Algae multiplies rapidly, and by the time the human eye
can notice it, there are billions of algae cells in the pool.
Most pool professionals will agree that the two most frequent complaints
received about pools are related to algae and cloudy water. Green algae
can make a pool especially cloudy. Algae will clog filter systems and make
pool surfaces slippery. The three most common colors of algae are green,
black and yellow (mustard). The best way to avoid an algae problem is to
keep at least 1.0 ppm of free available chlorine circulating throughout the
pool water at all times. For persistent algae problems, an algicide may be
used.

(See Algae chart on next page.)

15
ALGAE (continued)
COLOR GREEN ALGAE BLACK ALGAE MUSTARD ALGAE
APPEARANCE Pea green colored. Better known as A yellow film.
sometimes colors “black spots” on usually found on
entire body of pool walls & steps or walls.
water. Also attaches surfaces.
to pool surfaces
CAUSES Insufficient or inactive levels of sanitizer. Inadequate water
circulation. High nitrate and phosphate levels.
TREATMENT 1. Check pH & 1. Brush affected 1. Brush affected
adjust if necessary areas thoroughly areas thoroughly.
2. Shock treat pool 2. Spot treat affected 2. Spot treat affected
water areas with areas with
sanitizer. sanitizer.
3. Brush surfaces if 3. Shock treat pool 3. Shock treat pool
necessary water & later add water or use a
algicide. specialized
mustard algae
treatment.
4. Retest pH & 4. Brush & vacuum 4. Retest pH &
repeat treatments as necessary. repeat treatments
if necessary. if necessary.

Notes:
1. Always consult a pool professional first if any treatment procedures are
unfamiliar.
2. Regular algicide treatments are recommended for outdoor pools that
experience persistent algae problems.

16
CLOUDY WATER
Cloudy pool water is an unfortunate, but common, problem in swimming
pools. The usual causes of poor water clarity are improper filtration, and/or
improperly balanced water. An algae condition or severe chloramine
condition can also cloud pool water.
If the water is cloudy the operator should first check the filter system. If
backwashing does not decrease pressure, the filter may need cleaning.
Clean cartridge and DE filters according to the manufacturer’s
instructions. Inspect the sand in the sand filter for clumps or air pockets.
Consult your local professional if you are not familiar with filter
maintenance. (Note: never release pool water to any environmentally
sensitive areas.)
After a thorough evaluation of the filter system, the water balance should
be checked. Look for signs of high calcium hardness, high pH and
alkalinity levels as well as high TDS levels.
UNBALANCED UNBALANCED
WATER WATER
POOR ALGAE
CAUSES
FILTRATION GROWTH HIGH HIGH
CONFIRMATION Slow filter Hazy pool water 1. Calcium 1. pH
turnover rates. with slight green Hardness
appearance.
2. TDS 2. Alkalinity
TREATMENT 1. Backwash & 1. Super- 1. Replace a 1. Add dry acid
clean filter. chlorinate & portion of the or liquid acid
Determine if brush pool pool water to reduce pH
filter media surfaces. with fresh to 7.2 - 7.6 &
needs water of lower alkalinity to
replacement. hardness and 80-120.
TDS.
2. Run filter for
24 hours.

Notes:
Consult a pool professional if a cloudy condition persists. They may
recommend repeated treatments or the use of a clarifier.

17
COLORED WATER
Colorless pool water is everyone’s goal, but there are those instances when
it is difficult to achieve. Colored water is an ugly nuisance and can result
in stained pool surfaces. The two main reasons for colored pool water are
oxidized metals and algae. A turbid green pool water condition is usually
attributed to algae. To gain a better understanding of algae treatment see
the section on algae.
Water color resulting from oxidized metals can come in an assortment of
colors, and is mostly translucent in its early stages. Green, red, brown, and
black are some of the more common colors produced by dissolved metals.
Green color is usually produced by either copper or iron. Red and brown
colors are generated by iron. Black/brown pool water is usually caused by
manganese.
Often these colored water conditions appear after a pool is initially filled
or after a shock treatment. If the fill water contains metals it should be
treated with a sequestering agent and/or clarifier prior to chlorine
additions. A shock treatment can cause metals to oxidize, which allows
them to fall out of solution and become more visually apparent.
RED/
COLOR GREEN GREEN BROWN BLACK
CAUSES Algae, if Iron or copper Iron corrosion Manganese in
cloudy. corrosion or in or in water water supply.
water supply. supply.
TREATMENT 1. Brush. 1. Adjust pH & alkalinity to recommended ranges.
2. Shock treat 2. Add sequestering agent & run filter.
& brush.
3. Vacuum. 3. Two days later, shock treat the water.
4. Retest pH & alkalinity. Also test hardness levels
&, if necessary, raise to 200 ppm, minimum.

Notes:
Take a pool sample to a pool professional for dissolved metals testing
immediately after treatment and at least once a month.

18
STAINS
When stains appear on swimming pool surfaces, immediate action should
be taken to avoid costly and annoying repairs. Brushing can often remove
fresh stains if recognized early enough. Neglected stains in plaster pools
may ultimately require draining and an acid wash. Like colored water,
stains are the result of metal ions in pool water. They indicate that either
the source water contains metals, such as copper, iron and manganese, or
that a corrosive pool water condition is dissolving metal pool components.
The first step after noticing a pool stain is to determine what caused the
stain. This is done by testing the water for metals. The first step after
noticing a pool stain is to determine what caused the stain. This is done by
having your local dealer or service professional test the pool water for
metals. If the stain is caused by metals, the dealer may recommend either a
sequestering agent or clarifier to treat the problem. If metals are present
due to improper pH levels, the pH should be adjusted to be within the
range of pH 7.2-7.6. If the problem persists, add a sequestering agent or a
clarifier that will chemically bind the metals so that they can be filtered
out before they cause more staining problems.
COLOR BLUE/GREEN RED/BROWN BLACK
CAUSES Copper or Iron Iron or manganese Manganese in water
corrosion or from corrosion or from supply.
water supply. water supply.
TREATMENT 1. Adjust pH & alkalinity to recommended ranges.
2. Vigorously brush the stained areas.
3. Add sequestering agent & run filter.
4. Two days later, shock treat the water.
5. Retest pH & alkalinity. Also test hardness levels &, if necessary,
raise to 200 ppm.

Notes:
Take a pool sample to a pool professional for dissolved metals testing 24-48
hours after treatment and at least once a month.

19
SCALE FORMATIONS
Crusty white deposits on pool surfaces signal a severely high level of one or
more of the water balance factors. Scale deposits not only make pool
surfaces rough, but also reduce water circulation as scale builds up within
the filter and plumbing system.
If scale deposits are readily noticeable on pool surfaces the pH, calcium
hardness, and total alkalinity must be tested and adjusted immediately.
Most likely one, if not all three, are much too high and need to be
reduced. The first step is to reduce the pH and alkalinity since reducing
the calcium hardness level is more difficult.
If high hardness is the cause of the scale, it is best to drain a portion of the
pool water or all the water in a spa and replace it with fresh make-up
water low in hardness and total dissolved solids.
CONFIRMATION Crusty deposits on pool surfaces.
CAUSES 1. High calcium hardness.
2. High pH & alkalinity.
TREATMENT 1. Adjust pH and alkalinity to ideal ranges
(7.2 - 7.6 & 80 - 120 respectively).
2. Replace a volume of pool water with water low in hardness.
Consult a pool professional to determine the replacement
amount.
3. Use a sequestering agent to prevent scale buildup if high
hardness levels are a continuing problem.

20
EYE & SKIN IRRITATIONS
Eye and skin irritations are another common problem for swimming pool
bathers. In addition to such irritations within the water, nasal irritations
can also be noticed in indoor pool areas with poor ventilation and
excessive levels of combined chlorine.
There are two basic causes of eye and skin irritations. These are an
improper pH and high chloramines. The human eye is most comfortable
in water with a pH of about 7.5. Therefore a low pH, below 7.2, or a high
pH, above 8.0 can become quite irritating.
A chloramine problem is caused when combined chlorine levels exceed
0.2 ppm. Though many people incorrectly blame high chlorine for
stinging eye irritations, it is actually the lack of adequate free available
chlorine and the presence of chloramines which causes the eye irritation.
CAUSES High or low pH Combined Chlorine
TREATMENT Adjust pH to recommended range Shock treat or superchlorinate.
& retest.

FILTRATION
If your water is in balance but is cloudy, you may want to check your filter.
Filters are an integral part of having clean, clear water. As the filter
collects materials, the pressure will build. To eliminate the material that
has collected, one must backwash the filter. Follow manufacturer’s
instructions for when and how this is done to assure long filter life.
If you suspect a filter problem, the remedy may be as simple as using a filter
cleaner. Beyond this, the remedy may be more involved.
Sand Filters - check the sand for gaps or hard spots and/or replace the
sand. Generally sand should be replaced every 4-5 years.
DE Filters - Soak the “fingers” in a filter cleaner. If the filter is a grid type
filter, hose the grids off and inspect them for damage.
Cartridge Filter - Replace dirty cartridges with clean ones and clean
the dirty ones for the next replacement.
You may wish to contact your local dealer for advice before investigating a
suspected filter problem.

21
WATER TREATMENT TABLES
VOLUME CALCULATIONS
Chemical adjustments are vital to proper sanitation and water balance.
Since adjustments are based on the volume of water in the pool or spa, it is
important to calculate the volume correctly. The following formulas may
be used:
1. Rectangular or square shaped pool
(length x width x average depth x 7.5)
Example 1:
length = 40 feet
width = 20 feet
avg. depth = 4.5 feet
40 x 20 x 4.5 x 7.5 = 27,000 gallons
(x 3.785 liters/gallons) = 102,195 liters
Example 2:
length = 32 feet
width = 16 feet
avg. depth = 4 feet
32 x 16 x 4 x 7.5 = 15,360 gallons
(x 3.785 liters per gallon) = 58,138 liters

22
2. Any circular shaped pool
(diameter 1 x diameter 2 x average depth x 5.9)
Example 3:
diameter 1 = 20 feet
diameter 2 = 20 feet
avg. depth = 4 feet
20 x 20 x 4 x 5.9 = 9440 gallons
(x 3.785 liters per gallon) = 35,731 liters
Example 4:
diameter 1 = 10 feet
diameter 2 = 25 feet
avg. depth = 4 feet
10 x 25 x 4 x 5.9 = 5900 gallons
(x 3.785 liters per gallon) = 22,332 liters

3. Circular Spa
(diameter 1 x diameter 2 x average depth x 5.9)
Example 5:
diameter 1 = 4 feet
diameter 2 = 4 feet
avg. depth = 3 feet
4 x 4 x 3 x 5.9 = 283 gallons (x 3.785 liters per gallon) = 1,071 liters

23
ADJUSTING pH
It is recommended that dry chemicals first be mixed into a generous
amount of water in increments of about two pounds, and the predissolved
mixture be distributed evenly around the pool unless directed otherwise.
Precautions
n Never add water to chemicals; always add chemicals to water.
n Always follow manufacturer’s recommendations and warnings on
product labeling.
n Never mix two chemicals together since their pH might vary and could
cause an explosion or fire.
A pH range of 7.2 - 7.8 is ideal for pools and spas. Since 7.5 is the
midpoint of this range, we have provided the tables below to help in
adjusting up or down to this pH. After testing the pH, find the pH in the
left hand column and match this with the volume of water in your pool or
spa, listed at the top of the table. Since the recommendations are
approximate, you may wish to initially add slightly less and wait 4-8 hours
to retest the water. Keep in mind that pH adjustments will affect
alkalinity.
ò Lowering pH to 7.5 with Muriatic Acid*
Notes:
* Treatment recommendations are affected by total alkalinity. At low
alkalinity levels less acid may be required and at higher alkalinity levels
more acid may be required.
Starting 100 1,000 5,000 10,000 20,000 50,000
from Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons
pH Tsp
— . Pts Oz Pts Oz Pts Oz Pts Oz Pts Oz
7.6 - 7.8 — 0.75 0 1.3 0 6.4 0 12.8 1 9.6 4 0
7.8 - 8.0 — 1 0 1.9 0 9.6 1 3.2 2 6.4 6 0
8.0 - 8.4 — 1.5 0 2.6 0 12.8 1 9.6 3 3.2 8 0
>8.4 — 2 0 3.2 1 0 2 0 4 0 10 0

24
ò Lowering pH to 7.5 with Dry Acid* (Sodium Bisulfate)
Starting 100 1,000 5,000 10,000 20,000 50,000
from Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons
pH — Tsp. Lbs. Oz Lbs. Oz Lbs. Oz Lbs. Oz Lbs. Oz
7.6 - 7.8 — 1 0 1.6 0 8 0 16 1 12 5 0
7.8 - 8.0 — 1.5 0 2.4 0 12 1 4 3 8 8 0
8.0 - 8.4 — 2 0 3.2 0 16 1 12 4 4 10 0
>8.4 — 2.5 0 4 1 0 3 0 5 0 13 0

ñ Raising pH to 7.5 with Soda Ash*

Notes:
* Treatments in low alkalinity waters require less soda ash while treatments
in high alkalinity waters may require more soda ash.
Starting 100 1,000 5,000 10,000 20,000 50,000
from Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons
pH — Tsp. Lbs. Oz Lbs. Oz Lbs. Oz Lbs. Oz Lbs. Oz
7.2 - 7.4 — 0.4 0 0.6 0 3.2 0 6.4 0 12.8 2 0
7.0 - 7.2 — 0.6 0 1 0 4.8 0 9.6 1 3.2 3 0
6.8 - 7.0 — 0.8 0 1.3 0 6.4 0 12.8 1 9.6 4 0
<6.7 — 1 0 1.6 0 8 1 0 2 0 5 0

25
ADJUSTING CHLORINE
It is recommended that dry chemicals first be mixed into a generous
amount of pool water in increments of about two pounds, and the
predissolved mixture be distributed evenly around the pool unless directed
otherwise.
Precautions
n Never add water to chemicals; always add chemicals to water.
n Always follow manufacturer’s recommendations and warnings on
product labeling.
n Never mix two chemicals together since their pH might vary and could
cause an explosion or fire.
Best results are obtained by predissolving granular chlorine products,
especially if you have a vinyl pool. Trichlor is erosion fed through
skimmers or floating passive feeders. Simply add one Trichlor stick or
puck. Do not try to break pucks, since these could burn hands.
ñ Raising Chlorine 1 ppm
100 1,000 5,000 10,000 20,000 50,000
Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons
Tsp. Oz. Oz. Oz. Oz. Oz.
Sodhypo* 1 1.3 oz 0.5 pt 0.5 pt 1.5 pt 3.5 pt
Lithium c 0.4 2 4 8 19
Calhypo i 0.2 1 2 4 10
Dichlor† i 0.2 1 2 5 12
Dichlor‡ i 0.2 1 2 4 11
Trichlor — 0.1 1 1 3 7

*This is a liquid and the calculation assumes 1 liq. oz. (10%) = 1 dry oz.
† dihydrate form
‡ anhydrous form (see product label)

26
ADJUSTING ALKALINITY
It is recommended that dry chemicals first be mixed into a generous
amount of pool water in increments of about two pounds, and the
predissolved mixture be distributed evenly around the pool unless directed
otherwise.
Precautions
n Never add water to chemicals; always add chemicals to water.
n Always follow manufacturer’s recommendations and warnings on
product labeling.
n Never mix two chemicals together since their pH might vary and could
cause an explosion or fire.
Alkalinity should be 80-120 ppm. Once you determine the alkalinity,
calculate how much you wish to raise or lower it and find this number in
the left-hand column. Match this with the volume of water in your pool or
spa, listed at the top of the table. Add the recommended amount to the
water in small increments. Since alkalinity adjustments affect pH, you
should test the alkalinity and pH 4-8 hours after the chemicals are added.
ò Lowering Alkalinity with Dry Acid
Notes:
Be sure to note chemical precautions above. Always follow manufacturer’s
recommendations.
100 1,000 5,000 10,000 20,000 50,000
Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons
ppm Tsp. Oz. Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz.
10 1.8 — 0 3 1 0 2 0 4 0 10 0
20 3.5 — 0 6 2 0 4 0 8 0 20 0
30 — 1.0 0 10 3 0 6 0 12 0 30 0
40 — 1.3 0 13 4 0 8 0 16 0 40 0
50 — 1.6 1 0 5 0 10 0 20 0 50 0
60 — 2 1 3 6 0 12 0 24 0 60 0
70 — 2.2 1 6 7 0 14 0 28 0 70 0
80 — 2.6 1 10 8 0 16 0 32 0 80 0
90 — 3 1 13 9 0 18 0 36 0 90 0
100 — 3.2 2 0 10 0 20 0 40 0 100 0

27
ò Lowering Alkalinity with Muriatic Acid
Notes:
Be sure to note chemical precautions on the previous page. Always follow
manufacturer’s recommendations.
100 1,000 5,000 10,000 20,000 50,000
Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons
ppm Tsp
. Oz. Pts. Oz. Pts. Oz. Pts. Oz. Pts. Oz. Pts. Oz.
10 1.5 — 0 2.5 0 13 1 10 3 4 8 2.5
20 3 — 0 5 1 10 3 4 6 8.5 16 0
30 5 — 0 8 2 7 4 14 9 12.5 24 0
40 — 1 0 10.5 3 4 6 8.5 13 0.5 32 0
50 — 1.3 0 13 4 1 8 2.5 16 0 40 0
60 — 1.6 0 15.5 4 14 9 12.5 19 0 48 0
70 — 1.8 1 2 5 11 11 6.5 22 0 57 0
80 — 2 1 5 6 8.5 13 0.5 26 0 65 0
90 — 2.4 1 7.5 7 5.5 14 10.5 29 0 73 0
100 — 2.7 1 10 8 2.5 16 4.5 32 0 81 0

28
ñ Raising Alkalinity with Sodium Bicarbonate
Notes:
Be sure to note chemical precautions. Always follow manufacturer’s
recommendations.
100 1,000 5,000 10,000 20,000 50,000
Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons
To Raise
ppm Tsp. Oz. Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz.
10 1 — 0 2 0 11 1 7 2 13 7 1
20 2 — 0 5 1 7 2 13 5 10 14 1
30 4 — 0 7 2 2 4 4 8 7 21 2
40 5 — 0 9 2 13 5 10 11 4 28 2
50 6.5 — 0 11 3 8 7 1 14 1 35 3
60 — 1.4 0 14 4 4 8 7 16 14 42 3
70 — 1.6 0 16 4 15 9 14 19 11 49 4
80 — 1.8 1 2 5 10 11 4 22 8 56 4
90 — 2 1 4 6 5 12 11 25 5 63 5
100 — 2.3 1 7 7 1 14 1 28 2 70 5

29
ADJUSTING HARDNESS
It is recommended that dry chemicals first be mixed into a generous
amount of pool water in increments of about two pounds, and the
predissolved mixture be distributed evenly around the pool unless directed
otherwise.
Precautions
n Never add water to chemicals; always add chemicals to water.
n Never add calcium chloride to skimmer since it produces heat upon
mixing with water.
n Always follow manufacturer’s recommendations and warnings on
product labeling.
n Never mix two chemicals together since their pH might vary and could
cause an explosion or fire.
In most areas of the country a minimum of 150 ppm and ideal level of 200
- 400 ppm of hardness is recommended. The only practical way to lower
hardness is to drain some water from the pool or spa and refill with water
lower in hardness.
Once you determine the hardness concentration, calculate how much you
wish to add and find this number in the left-hand column. Match this with
the volume of water in the pool or spa, listed at the top of the table. Be
careful when mixing calcium chloride with water since this can generate a
significant amount of heat. Allow the water to circulate 4-8 hours after the
chemical is added and then check the hardness.

30
ñ Raising Hardness with Calcium Chloride
Notes:
Be sure to note chemical precautions. Always follow manufacturer’s
recommendations.
100 1,000 5,000 10,000 20,000 50,000
Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons
To Raise
ppm Tsp. Oz. Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz.
10 1 — 0 2 0 10 1 4 2 8 6 4
20 2.5 — 0 4 1 4 2 8 5 0 12 8
30 3.5 — 0 6 1 14 3 12 7 8 18 12
40 5 — 0 8 2 8 5 0 10 0 25 0
50 6 — 0 10 3 2 6 4 12 8 31 4
60 — 1.2 0 12 3 12 7 8 15 0 37 8
70 — 1.4 0 14 4 6 8 12 17 8 43 12
80 — 1.6 1 0 5 0 10 0 20 0 50 0
90 — 1.8 1 2 5 10 11 4 22 8 56 4
100 — 2 1 4 6 4 12 8 25 0 62 8

31
ADJUSTING CYANURIC ACID
It is recommended that dry chemicals first be mixed into a generous
amount of water in increments of about two pounds, and the predissolved
mixture be distributed evenly around the pool unless directed otherwise.
Precautions
n Never add water to chemicals; always add chemicals to water.
n Always follow manufacturer’s recommendations and warnings on
product labeling.
n Never mix two chemicals together since their pH might vary and could
cause an explosion or fire.
Usually a 30 - 50 ppm concentration of cyanuric acid will produce good
chlorine stabilization. However, your service professional may have a
different recommendation. Usually cyanuric acid is added to a skimmer
and travels to the filter where it may take 24-48 hours to completely
dissolve. Determine how much cyanuric acid you wish to add and find this
number on the left-hand side of the table. Match this with the pool or spa
water volume listed at the top of the table. Keep in mind that dichlor and
trichlor products will add cyanuric acid also.
ñ Raising Cyanuric Acid
Notes:
Cyanuric Acid may require 24 - 48 hours to completely dissolve.
100 1,000 5,000 10,000 20,000 50,000
Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons Gallons
To
Raise Tsp Lbs Lbs Lbs Lbs Lbs
ppm — . . Oz. . Oz. . Oz. . Oz. . Oz.
10 — 0.75 0 1.3 0 6.4 0 12.8 1 9.6 4 0
20 — 1.5 0 2.6 0 12.8 1 9.6 3 3.2 8 0
30 — 2.25 0 3.8 1 3.2 2 6.4 4 12.8 12 0
40 — 3 0 5.1 1 9.6 3 3.2 6 6.4 16 0
50 — 3.5 0 6.4 2 0 4 0 8 0 20 0

32