TECHPACK/SPECS

&
SAMPLING
TEXTILE & APPAREL MERCHANDISING
TEM 40 9

MD. GOLAM SAROW ER RAY HAN

LECTURER, TEM, BUTEX
 TECHPACK/SPECS
A Tech pack (Technical Package) is a set of documents created by a product designer, technical designer,
pattern maker or product developer to explain the design to a manufacturer so they can turn the
information into a product.
Its also called SPECS (Specification Sheet)
When it comes to outsourcing production, most contractors and factories will not take your orders unless
you provide a clear and detailed tech pack.
The ultimate goal of a Tech Pack is to minimize the number of samples made and bring a product to
market faster.
Tech packs also serves as a master document/blue print to track product development including
comments, revisions, and changes made.
 Components/information/documents in a Techpack
Flat sketches
Color combo details
Construction details (fabrics/trims/accessories)
Sample size & point of measurements (POM) with diagram
Measurement Specs (with all size grading & allowances)
Stitches & Seams details with diagram
Label details (care label/size label/main label/brand label)
Other Trims & Accessories details
Packaging details (type of hanger, type of polybag, weight/size of carton etc.)

Some other additional information exist in Techpack (vary from buyer to buyer)
 8 Major Benefits of getting a Complete Teckpack
Error-free sample
Accurate price quotation
Accountability of the manufacturer
Reference point for quality control
It tracks change request during sampling process
It saves time & money
It helps collaboration in a team
Sourcing guide for new suppliers
 Sample & Sampling
Sample:
A few item or goods taken from a large number of similar goods are called sample.
Sample is the fundamental element of product development whether it is new or
existing one.

Sampling:
Sampling is the most technical feature of the merchandiser’s job. This involves--
developing new products for buyer as per techpack/specs
showing some existing products to the new customer
 Garments Sampling Process
1. Getting buyer requirement:
–Clarify the sample specifications with the help of R&D & garments sample department.
–Checking possibility of making that type of sample:
•If not possible, buyer should be informed instantly.
•If possible, its completion date is to be confirmed to the buyer ASAP keeping in view all processes time.

2. Sample Preparation:

-In case of new style, sample department will make a development/proto sample with available materials
of the specified construction requirements as per Techpack.

-In case of regular style of different color combo, sample department will directly prepare fit sample/size-
set sample/Pre-production sample (PPS) as per buyer requirement.
 Garments Sampling Process
3. Evaluating Quality parameter results: (its not mandatory)

-merchandisers submit fabric, trims & garments sample for some physical & chemical performance test to
internal/3rd party testing lab as nominated by the buyer for specified test parameters

-if the results meet standards specified by the buyers then it can be sent to the buyer.

4. Sample packing and dispatch:

-the sample is properly packed for its safe arrival at the destination (buyer liaison office or foreign buyer
office).
-Proper sample documents should be attached with the sample.
 Garments Sampling Process
Getting Buyers
5. Seeking buyer’s comments: query

–If sample is approved, then factory will go Sample

for bulk production (for regular style) or next preparation
sampling processes (for new style)

Evaluating
–If rejected , requires rework according to Results
buyer comments.
Packing and
dispatch

Buyer’s
feedback
 Types of samples
Prototype/Development samples:
These are samples developed during the preliminary stages of product development. They are made by
similar but not always exact fabrics & trims. But must be made as per buyer sketch, specification sheet.

Fit sample:
Fit sample is made and sent to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on dummy and for
approval of construction details.

Size-Set Samples (SS Sample):

A sample of each size is required by the buyer after giving comments on “ Prototype Samples”. Size-Set
samples are requested to check the accuracy of each size pattern. In case of several sizes (size S to XXXL)
manufacturer can submit jumping size-set sample like (S, M, XL, XXL) but with proper buyer concern.
 Types of samples
Pre- production sample (PP sample):
Must be in actual fabrics, trims and accessories. Bulk fabric cannot be cut until these samples are
approved by the buyer.
Approved samples (Gold-seal PP Sample):
Upon approval of the pre-production sample by the buyer, that will be sealed and tagged with
comments if necessary. The approved pre-production sample is called approved sample. This sample is
treated as blue print for bulk production.
Manufacturer must keep all approved samples for fabric shades, trims & accessories. These are
important to ensure the quality of all materials.
GPT sample (Garment Performance Test) & FTP (Fabric Performance Test):
The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to ensure the
performance of the garment.
FPT test is done to perform the physical and chemical testing on raw finished fabric.
These report must be sent to buyer for authentication.
 Types of samples
Counter Samples:
Sometimes approved samples are required in different departments (cutting, sewing & finishing) but
there is only one approved sample. So merchandiser can reproduce a number of samples against the
approved samples.

Production Samples (PS) (Red-tag/Red-seal Sample):

Representative samples taken from a production line on random basis by buyer’s representative is called
production sample. This sample must be sent to the buyer before shipment.

Shipment Sample:
Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull from the actual shipment and
sent to them. The main purpose of this sample is to arrange a fashion gallery in buying house.
 Types of samples
Photo Samples:
These samples are photographed for making brochures, catalogs, etc. for distribution to stores and for
end-use. These sample fabrics should be so lucrative and fashionable design/print as per artwork/sketch.

Sales man sample (SMS)/ Marketing /Showroom sample:

These are the samples used by the buyer for promotion or sale of their product. It is a special order from
buyer. These are required in exact fabrics, shades and accessories. More quantities are required in this case
and payments are made by the customer.

Mock-up Sample:
Mock-ups are partial garments or detail panel to show construction parameters or factory production
capability. They are used by design team for reference during initial design stages or at buyer meeting
 Types of samples
Strike-off Sample:
-Generally, buyer places an order of any style in different shades of fabrics. Size set is made in any one
color.
-But if the garment has embroidery/screen print/printing over (AOP) on it, then garment manufacturer must take
approval of print colors/design, embroidery design/thread colors/appearance/sizes on each shade of the fabric as
per Techpack artwork/sketch.
-These print and embroidery approvals are known as strike-off samples.

Wash Sample:
Wash sample is made and submitted to the buyer for assessment of feel, handle and design of fabric after
washing.

• Either at size set stage or PP stage, washing sample is sent to the buyer for approval. Based on the buyer
comments, the merchandiser needs to continue the production
Fabric Requirements for Sample Submission
 Other Types of samples
Tailoring/Wear Test Sample:
In case of new quality fabric, this kind of sample is made. This is one kind of fit sample.

Reference Sample:
If garment is made with available trims, then it is needed to remake for buyer approval further with actual
materials, this sample is called reference sample. This can be thread reference sample, Button reference sample
etc.

Pilot Run Sample:

2-5% of total production quantity is made in the separate sewing line before the actual bulk production. In this
case, a trial cutting of bulk fabric is done to ensure proper garments cutting & sewing quality as per approved
sample.

Meeting Sample:
Sample is pulled from production for any kind of meeting purpose. For buyer meeting, special quality checking
has been performed in this case.
 Sampling Documents
Covering letter:
In covering letter, Merchandiser mentions the below details:
The name of company which asks the sample
Contact person with designation
Phone no of destination office/contact person
The brief description of the sample (Order/style no, type of sample)
The weight and quantity of sample
In case of sending the sample to foreign buying office, proper courier invoice must be attached.
 Sampling Documents
Sample Tag:
-The sample Hang-tag has following information:

 Order/style Number
 Fabric composition
 GSM
 Price (if buyer requires)
 Type of sample
 Garments item name
 Sampling Documents
Specification/ Measurement sheet:
-In specification sheet, Merchandiser/concerned sample person mentions the technical aspects of the
sample. Actually quality person checks whether the sample measurements exist within allowance limit
mentioned in the Specs/Techpack provided by buyer.
Example- Knitted Garments T-Shirt:
 GSM of Fabric
Fabric Type
Half chest
Garments length
 Sleeve length
 Armhole
 Shoulder with etc.
 Some Physical Test Parameters for Garments
Tensile strength Yarn Count
Tear Strength (Woven Fabric) Fabric Weight
Seam Slippage Button attachment (Pull Test)
Seam Strength Zipper strength
Bursting Strength (Knit Fabric) Fiber content (Fiber Composition)
Pilling Care Label Verification
Abrasion Resistance Care Label Recommendation
Wrinkle Recovery Threads per Inch/Stitch Density
 Some Chemical Test Parameters for Garments
Banned Amines (Azo) Corrosion Resistance
Allergic Disperse Dyes Carcinogenic Dyes
Nickel Content Cadmium Content
pH Pesticides
Formaldehyde BHT Free
Lead Content Flame Retardants
Phthalates (kids garments)
Chlorinated Organic Carriers
Some Dimensional Stability Test Parameters for Garments

 Washing - 1 wash / 3washes

 Dry Cleaning
 Appearance Retention
 Garment Durability (P23A)
 Color Fastness to
-Washing -Perspiration
-Dry Cleaning -Water
-Rubbing/Crocking -Chlorine Bleach
-Light -Hot Pressing
 Test Request Form (TRF)
 TRF is a editable/fillable format provided by testing company
 Testing company can be in-housed (if buyer allows) or 3rd party (buyer nominated)
 This format is used to submit raw fabrics/ garments/ trims to testing company
 Different test parameters (physical/chemical/dimensional) to be performed on raw fabrics/
garments/ trims.
 If final results exist within relevant standard (as buyer given standard) range then report must be
passed & can be sent to buyer
 If any one test parameters does not meet the standard, then retest must be done
Commercial Approval:
When any test parameter fails to comply the standard level but is very close to the minimum or
maximum limit, then garments manufacturer can demand a commercial approval from byer side.
 Garments/fabrics Test Report

 After submitting test sample with properly filled up TRF to testing company generally it
takes 3-4 days for test functions
 After time interval, testing company provide test report in hard copy or send via mail to
factory contact person as mentioned in TRF.
 Testing company also sends a bill/invoice for test performed.
 If the result is passed, it should be sent to buyer contact person or upload the report file in
buyer online portal.
 Color/Print/Handloom Approval Form (Lab Dip/Strike off)
 During final sample development process buyer provide actual color code (Pantone number –
TCX/TPX)/color swatch and actual print/handloom (YD) sketch/artwork with color code.
 Merchandisers develop lab dips in different shades (blackish/bluish/reddish/yellowish) in options as like
Option A, Option B, Option C, Option D.
 Merchandisers develop Y/D handloom (woven fabric) or print (screen print/All over print-AOP) strike off.
 Merchandisers submit these lab dips & handlooms/prints in required submission format to buyer for
color/quality approval.
 After getting final approval, merchandisers go for bulk production as per approved color/quality standards.
 If received any comments, development must be done again & submission to buyer for approval.
 After bulk production, bulk sample is checked for color shade/quality under shade light box (preferred
UV/TL84) with the approved lab dip option or approved print strike-off.
 Bulk shade sent to buyer for approval. Without bulk shade approval, bulk fabric cutting is prohibited.