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 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

SWITZERLAND

ALPINE VILLAGES
MOUNTAINS • ART
o
z
n
e

CHURCHES • LAKES
r
lo
n
a

ia
s

a v
ia

MUSEUMS • RESTAURANTS
t
v

o
m
.
g
a
z
z
ia

SKIING • HOTELS • SPAS

p

THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT

OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

SWITZERLAND
 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

SWITZERLAND
ADRIANA CZUPRYN
MAŁGORZATA OMILANOWSKA
ULRICH SCHWENDIMANN
 CONTENTS
HOW TO USE
THIS GUIDE 6

Produced by Hachette Livre Polska sp. z o.o., Warsaw, Poland

EDITORS Teresa Czerniewicz-Umer, Joanna Egert-Romanowska
DESIGNER Paweł Pasternak
CARTOGRAPHERS Magdalena Polak, Olaf Rodowald
PHOTOGRAPHERS Wojciech and Katarzyna Mędrzakowie,
Oldrich Karasek
ILLUSTRATORS Michał Burkiewicz, Paweł Marczak
CONTRIBUTORS
Małgorzata Omilanowska, Ulrich Schwendimann,
Adriana Czupryn, Marek Pernal, Marianna Dudek
FOR DORLING KINDERSLEY
EDITOR Lucilla Watson
CONSULTANTS Gerhard Brüschke, Matthew Teller
TRANSLATOR Magda Hannay
PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Louise Minihane
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore.
Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China. The massive towers of the
First American edition, 2005 Grossmünster, Zürich
10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by DK Publishing, INTRODUCING
375 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014
Reprinted with revisions 2008, 2010
SWITZERLAND
Copyright © 2005, 2010 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Company
DISCOVERING
SWITZERLAND 10
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT
RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN
PUTTING SWITZERLAND
OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY
ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR
ON THE MAP 12
OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT
OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK. A PORTRAIT OF
PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED. SWITZERLAND 16
A CATALOG RECORD IS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

ISSN 1542-1554 SWITZERLAND

ISBN 978 0 7566 6145 8 THROUGH THE
Front cover main image: Soglio village in Val Bregaglia, Graubünden YEAR 30

The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as
possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as
telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers
cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use
of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot
guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable
source of travel infomation. We value the views and suggestions of our
readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel
Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. Emblem of Zürich, Schweizer-
isches Landesmuseum, Zürich

The Matterhorn, Zermatt

 THE HISTORY
OF SWITZERLAND 34

SWITZERLAND
REGION BY
REGION
SWITZERLAND
AT A GLANCE 46

BERN 48

MITTELLAND,
BERNESE OBERLAND Lake Lucerne, at the geographical and historical heart of Switzerland
AND VALAIS 66
TRAVELLERS’ TRAVEL INFORMATION
GENEVA 92 NEEDS 302

WESTERN WHERE TO STAY 242 INDEX

SWITZERLAND 108 310
WHERE TO EAT 260
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
SPORT AND 324
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
284 PHRASE BOOK
326
SKIING IN
SWITZERLAND 288 ROAD MAP
Inside back cover
SPA RESORTS IN
SWITZERLAND 290

SURVIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL
INFORMATION 294
Panel from the 1513 altarpiece in
the Église des Cordeliers, Fribourg

NORTHERN
SWITZERLAND
134

ZÜRICH 158

EASTERN
SWITZERLAND AND
GRAUBÜNDEN
176

CENTRAL SWITZERLAND
AND TICINO
Lausanne Cathedral
206
(pp114–15)
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T his guide helps you to get the most

from your visit to Switzerland.
Introducing Switzerland maps the
country and sets it in its historical and
cultural context. Features cover topics
sights, with photographs, maps and
illustrations. Restaurant and hotel list-
ings, and information about winter
sports and many other outdoor activi-
ties can be found in Travellers’ Needs.
from wildlife to geology. The eight sec- The Survival Guide contains practical
tions comprising Switzerland Region by tips on everything from using the Swiss
Region, three of which focus on Bern, rail network to choosing the best times
Geneva and Zürich, describe the main of year to visit Switzerland.


         
     

          BERN
 


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GERMANY
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 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7
        
    

    


  
 
      
    
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 INTRODUCING
SWITZERLAND

DISCOVERING SWITZERLAND 1011

PUTTING SWITZERLAND ON THE MAP 1215
A PORTRAIT OF SWITZERLAND 1629
SWITZERLAND THROUGH THE YEAR 3033
THE HISTORY OF SWITZERLAND 3443
10 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

DISCOVERING SWITZERLAND
E ach of Switzerland’s eight regions the grotesquely costumed Vogel Gryff
has its own unique history. carnival dancers in Basel to the
Landscapes, cuisine, archi-
tecture and even languages
change as otherwise
smiling citizens of Bern, the Swiss
are a people who revel in their
own stereotypes, celebrating
invisible borders are their diversity while
crossed. You can also enjoying an unrivalled
explore the independent reputation for making a
country of Liechtenstein, which Snowboarding in business out of welcoming
is surrounded by Switzerland. Verbier
strangers with one of the
From the gnomes of Zürich to world’s best tourist infrastructures.

MITTELLAND, BERNESE GENEVA

OBERLAND AND VALAIS
• Decadent luxury shopping
• World-class ski resorts • Characterful old town
• Grand St Bernard Pass • Europe’s tallest fountain
• Awe-inspiring peaks
Bustling with bankers and
A region of ice-covered peaks diplomats, Switzerland’s most
and verdant valleys, this area cosmopolitan city is an expen-
also includes Switzerland’s sive but exciting place to stay.
biggest expanse of flat farm It is a shoppers paradise,
land – the Mittelland. Among known for watches and
the world-class ski resorts antiques (see pp106–7). Top
here are Zermatt (see p89), attractions include the UN
and Verbier (see p85). The Headquarters (see p101) but
Jungfrau train travels through Geneva’s pride and joy is the
the Eiger, terminating at landmark Jet d’Eau fountain
3,454 m (11,333 ft). The (see p97). Also rewarding is
Snowy scene with the peak of the Matterhorn (see p90) is the Geneva’s Old Town, in
Matterhorn in the distance world’s most enigmatic particular the Gothic
mountain and the Aletsch Cathédrale St-Pierre and its
(see p91) is the largest gorgoyles (see pp98–9).
BERN glacier in the Alps.
No trip to the Valais is
• Well-preserved Old Town complete without a visit to WESTERN SWITZERLAND
• Art at the Kunstmuseum the eponymous dogs at the
• Bear Park St Bernard Pass (see p84), or • Elegant Swiss Riviera
to see the fighting cows of • Fairytale Château de Chillon
Bern is Switzerland’s most the Herens breed. Relax with • Verdant lakeside vineyards
affable and affordable big the region’s Fendant wine or
city, and arguably the easiest soak in the thermal spas at The romantic poets Byron and
capital city in Europe to Leukerbad (see p89). Shelley, as well as modern
negotiate. The local people
are polite, and seldom in a
hurry. Enjoy a stroll through
the Old Town (see pp52–3), a
UNESCO World Heritage Site
with stone arcades and more
than 100 fountains. The
Kunstmuseum (see pp56–7)
and the cluster of museums
in the Kirchenfeld district
merit special attention, as
do the Zytglogge (see p55),
Münster (see pp58–9),
Käfigturm (see p55) and
the Bear Park (see p60),
home to the city’s popular
brown bears. Bern’s medieval Old Town, with the River Aare running through it

Painted façade of the Roter Ochsen, a house on the Rathausplatz in Stein am Rhein
 D I S C O V E R I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D 11

EASTERN SWITZERLAND
AND GRAUBUNDEN

• Swiss National Park

• Engadine’s “Graffiti” houses
• Heidi’s homeland

This is the Switzerland of

storybook and legend. The
Rhine flows through broad
flower- and fruit-filled valleys
celebrated in the Heidi story
(see pp190–1). The Swiss
National Park (see pp202–3)
offers a pristine wilderness
The Château de Chillon on the eastern shore of Lake Geneva of wildlife and rare flowers.
Ancient towns of trade and
legends like Charlie Chaplin learning with magnificent
and Freddy Mercury, made ZURICH medieval buildings are found
the Swiss Riviera (see pp112– across the region, while
19) on the north shores of • Finance and fashion capital houses with unusual painted
Lake Geneva their home. On • Contemporary art faćades can be seen in the
the eastern shore of Lake • Bahnhofstrasse shopping Engadine valley (see p200).
Geneva is the the beautiful Winter sports entertain the jet
Château de Chillon (see A city of guarded banks, set in St Moritz (see p204),
pp122–3). Lush vineyards and a world centre of gold and Klosters (see p191).
grow on the hillsides of Lake trading, Zürich surprises
Geneva and Lake Neuchâtel visitors with its amazingly
(see pp130–1) is a town ruch and vibrant contem-
renowned for its wines. The porary art and cultural scene.
Roman town of Avenches The vast National Museum
(see p124) and the dairy (see pp162–3) and Kunsthaus
country of Gruyères (see (see pp170–1) art gallery are
p124) are fascinating areas both world class attractions.
to tour, as are the rolling With cobblestoned streets,
hills of the Jura mountains. tree-lined promenades and
lakeside quays, Zürich is one
of the most seductive
NORTHERN European cities for strolling.
SWITZERLAND There are thousands of
architectural treasures to be
• Basel on the Rhine discovered in small alleys,
• Outstanding art collections shows to be seen in Ibex grazing in the Swiss National
• Fairytale medieval villages intimate cabarets (see Park, a much-loved nature reserve
pp172–3), and luxury items
Most of the northern region is to be bought on the
flat and industrialized, with expensive Bahnhofstrasse CENTRAL SWITZERLAND
the exceptions of the wine- (see p164). AND TICINO
growing villages of Regens-
berg and Eglisau. Sharing • Chapel Bridge, Luzern
borders with Germany and • Scenic lakes
France, Basel (see 138–47) is • Baroque Einsiedeln Kloster
exceptionally diverse and
open to artistic expression, Birthplace of the legendary
as witnessed in its street William Tell, this region runs
festivals. Basel’s Kunst- from Switzerland’s heart to the
museum (see pp146–7) alone Italian-speaking Ticino. The
is worth travelling far to see lakes of Lugano (see pp210–
and Winterthur (see pp156– 11) and Maggiore (see pp216–
7) also has superb art 17) are blessed with a warm
collections. Baden – the climate while Luzern (see
“baths” spa resort (see pp232–3), is one of Europe’s
pp154–5) – is built around a most scenic cities. The Kloster
picture-postcard medieval Colourful carnival in the streets Einsiedeln is a Baroque
Old Town. of Basel, a dynamic, artistic city masterpiece (see pp226–7).
12 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

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14 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

Switzerland’s Cantons and Linguistic Regions

Switzerland is divided into 26 cantons, six of which
(Appenzell-Ausserrhoden, Appenzell-Innerrhoden,
Basel-Landschaft, Basel-Stadt, Nidwalden and
Obwalden) are known as half-cantons but operate #4
as full cantons. Each canton has its own
constitution, legislation and financial 40
autonomy. The country is divided into 40 #-
three main linguistic regions. While +6
German predominates in northern,
eastern and central Switzerland, French
is spoken in the west, and Italian in the 40
south. Valais, or Wallis, has distinct
French- and German-speaking
regions. Romansh is the
language of a small -6
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SWISS CANTONS AI Appenzell-Innerrhoden

Western Switzerland Northern Switzerland GL Glarus
JU Jura BS Jura GR Graubünden
NE Neuchâtel BL Neuchâtel Central Switzerland
and Ticino
VD Vaud AG Vaud
ZG Zug
FR Fribourg ZH Fribourg
LU Luzern
GE Geneva Eastern Switzerland
and Graubünden SZ Schwyz
Mittelland, Bernese Oberland
and Valais SH Schaffhausen UR Uri
SO Solothurn TG Thurgau TI Ticino
BE Bern AR Appenzell-Ausserrhoden NW Nidwalden
VS Valais SG St Gallen OW Obwalden
 P U T T I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D O N T H E M A P 15

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LANGUAGES IN SWITZERLAND
Switzerland incorporates several linguistic regions.
German is spoken by almost two-thirds of the
population, French by one-fifth, and Italian by one-
tenth. All three are recognized as national languages,
so that all official documents, including the Swiss
Federal Railways timetable, are published in three
languages. The least-known official Swiss language
is Rhaeto-Romance, or Romansh,
spoken by fewer than 50,000
people. Although it was
recognized as a national
language in 1938, a survey
carried out in the 1980s
revealed that Romansh,
a very small group of
dialects, was in danger
of dying out. It was
therefore decided that LINGUISTIC AREAS
a common Romansh German
language would be
created. This was French
0 km 20 Rumantsch grischun, but Italian
only with difficulty did it
0 miles 20 gain currency. Romansh
 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D 17

A PORTRAIT OF SWITZERLAND

A
landlocked country in the cultural and geographical heart of
Europe, Switzerland has a distinct character and dynamism.
While the country is admired for the beauty of its Alpine envi-
ronment, its people are respected for their industry and technical
ingenuity, as well as their social responsibility and direct democratic
system of government. It is also one of the world’s richest countries.

Switzerland has virtually and with diverse cultural

no natural borders. The roots, the Swiss are
Alpine mass of which it remarkable for their strong
mostly consists extends sense of unified nation-
eastwards into Austria, hood. Switzerland’s national
westwards into France, and character has also been
southwards to form valleys that moulded by its neutrality. Having
run down to Lombardy, “Welcome to the avoided many of the major
Swiss Alps”
where the border straddles conflicts that shaped the
several lakes. Although Switzer- culture of other European nations,
land’s northern border follows the Switzerland stands at a slight
course of the Rhine, even here it remove from the wider world.
crosses this natural feature, bulging Switzerland today is a prosperous
out around Basel and taking in a and highly industrialized nation
mosaic of German and Swiss with a cosmopolitan lifestyle. On
enclaves around Schaffhausen. the one hand, it is forward-looking
This mountainous country has and innovative. On the other, it is
engendered a robust spirit of traditional and conservative, valuing
independence and enterprise and a stability above change, with a
zealous work ethic in its popu- keenness to maintain cultural
lation. Though divided by religion, continuity and links with the past.

The Aletsch Glacier seen from the Eggishorn, whose peak reaches 2,927 m (9,603 ft)

The Église St-Jean and Fontaine St-Jean in Fribourg

18 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

Italian is spoken south of the main

Alpine ridge, while the Romansh-
speaking minority inhabits a few
isolated high mountain valleys in the
east. German is spoken by two-thirds
of the population, French by one
fifth, Italian by one tenth and
Romansh by no more than about
1 per cent. Switzerland is almost
equally divided between Protestant
and Catholic, these religions crossing
linguistic divides. The population
also includes a small number of Jews
Biel/Bienne, the Bielersee and St Petersinsel, seen and Muslims.
from Boezingenberg, in the Jura mountains
Divisions between French- and
POPULATION, LANGUAGE AND RELIGION German-speakers, and between
The Jura mountains, in the north, and Protestants and Catholics, which have
the Alpine region, to the south, are dogged the unity of the Confederation
sparsely populated. The highest throughout its history, are still
population density, and most of tangible today.
the country’s industrial activity,
is in the central Mittelland, DEMOCRACY IN ACTION
concentrated in and around Switzerland is a federal republic
the capital Bern, and also in consisting of 26 cantons.
the lakeside cities of With its own tax, legal,
Geneva, Lausanne, fiscal and educational
Luzern and Zürich. systems, each canton is
Switzerland’s linguistic virtually an independent
and religious divisions state, enjoying considerable
are also distinctive. The Traditional folk costume autonomy within the Swiss
of the Fribourg region
German-speaking Confederation.
population inhabits the northern The country is governed by a
slopes and valleys of the Alps and a Federal Assembly, a bicameral parlia-
large section of the Mittelland ment consisting of a directly elected
plateau. The northern shores of Lake Federal Council and a Council of
Geneva, the gentle slopes of the Jura States, whose delegates represent the
mountains and the western Alps are individual cantons. Switzerland’s
inhabited by French-speaking Swiss. main political parties are the Swiss

Regatta on Lej da Silvaplana in Graubünden

 A P O R T R A I T O F S W I T Z E R L A N D 19

People’s Party, the agriculture for one

Social Democrats, quarter. Half of the
the Free Democrats country’s cheese
and the Christian production is ex-
Democrats. Certain ported, chiefly in the
major issues are form of Emmental
decided directly by and Gruyère.
the people, by refer-
endum. Voting, on ARTS AND SCIENCES
matters ranging A highly cultured
from the national country, Switzerland
speed limit to con- Alpine festival in Beatenberg, plays a leading role
on the Thunersee
cerns of strictly local in the arts, hosting
relevance, takes place at national, such important events as the Lucerne
cantonal and communal level. Music Festival, the Montreux Jazz
Festival and the Rose d’Or television
THE ECONOMY awards. Art Basel is the world’s
The Swiss economy is based on premier contemporary art fair, and
banking and international trade, the the Kunsthaus in Zürich is a national
service industries, manufacturing, art gallery with collections of interna-
agriculture and tourism. Standards of tional importance.
living are high, unemployment is low The best-known of all Swiss
and per capita income is one of the intellectuals is the philosopher Jean-
highest in the world. Jacques Rousseau (1712–78), who
The country’s major exports are was born in Geneva but who spent
precision machinery, clocks and most of his life in France. Other
watches, textiles, chemicals and important Swiss writers include the
pharmaceuticals. Chocolate and dairy German-born dramatists Max Frisch
products, including cheese, are also (1911–91) and Friedrich Dürrenmatt
major exports. (1921–90). Herman Hesse (1877–1962),
Although only 5 per cent of the who was born in Germany, became a
population is engaged in agriculture, Swiss citizen and wrote many of his
this sector of the economy enjoys a greatest works in Switzerland. Many
privileged status, with
some of the highest
subsidies in the world.
This is not only of
benefit to farmers but,
since it contributes to
the preservation of
Switzerland’s pictur-
esque landscape, it
also supports the
country’s hugely impor-
tant tourist industry.
Livestock accounts for
almost three-quarters
of Swiss farming, and
d a i r y f a r m i n g a n d Cattle returning from mountain pastures, in the Schwarzenburg region
20 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

Swiss artists and architects have also

won international recognition. Among
the most prominent is the architect
Le Corbusier (1887–1965), who was
born and grew up in La-Chaux-de-
Fonds, but who is more closely asso-
ciated with France, and the sculptor
and painter Alberto Giacometti
(1901–66), a native of Graubünden,
who spent nearly all his adult life in
Paris. Although he retained his
German citizenship, the artist Paul Klee
(1879–1940), who was born near Bern,
is treated as Swiss. Other notable
Swiss artists include the painter
Ferdinand Hodler (1853–1918), the
sculptor Jean Tinguely (1925–91) and
the polymath Max Bill (1908–94).
Since the 1930s, Switzerland has Clearing, an installation by Gillian White, depicting
the links between art and nature
produced several architects of inter-
national renown. Mario Botta (b. Zürich and the prestigious European
1943) designed the Museum of Centre for Nuclear Research near
Modern of Art in San Francisco, and Geneva have put Switzerland at the
Jacques Herzog and Pierre de forefront of scientific research.
Meuron are the architects who
designed the world’s largest steel TRADITIONAL ACTIVITIES
structure, the 2008 Olympic Stadium A sport-loving nation, the Swiss make
in Beijing. the most of their Alpine country.
Switzerland also has a tradition of Skiing, snowboarding, sledging and
excellence in the sciences. It was in skating are popular winter sports.
Bern that Albert Einstein developed Kayaking, rafting, hiking and a host
his theory of relativity, and to date an of other active summer sports have a
impressive number of 25 Swiss large following among the Swiss.
citizens have won Nobel prizes. The Certain rural areas are home to
Federal Institute of Technology in distinctive types of sport. These
include Schwingen,
an Alpine form of
wrestling, Hornussen,
a ball game played
with long, curved
bats, and cow fights
(combats des reines),
staged in the canton
of Valais. Yodelling
and alphorn-playing
are also an integral
part of the Alpine
way of life. How-
Contestants in a Schwingen match, a Swiss form of wrestling ever, many young
 A P O R T R A I T O F S W I T Z E R L A N D 21

town folk, regard-

less of region, are
deeply indifferent to
these traditional
activities, as they are
to the Waffenlauf, a
long-distance race
run by competitors
dressed in uniforms
and carrying ruck-
sacks and rifles on
their backs.
Swiss Guards at a ceremony at the Vatican in Rome

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES heightens the risk of landslides and

The Swiss have a punctilious avalanches, is forbidden. Naturally,
approach to preserving their natural Switzerland is a signatory to the 1999
environment. Two examples of this Alpine Convention, drawn up
are a remarkably developed and well together eight other Alpine nations to
coordinated public transport system, protect the Alpine environment from
and a scrupulous approach to the harmful effects of tourism and
recycling waste. motorized transport.
Switzerland is the first country to
have made compulsory the fitting of SWITZERLAND ON THE WORLD STAGE
catalytic converters to cars, and Although it is a neutral country,
national regulations concerning the Switzerland maintains a citizen army
emission of toxic gases and other to defend its borders. National
substances are among the most service is compulsory. However,
stringent in the world. Such consi- except in time of war, the Swiss army
deration towards the environment has no active units and no top
has had a measurable effect on the general, although regular training
quality of life in Switzerland. Even in takes place. The last mobilization
towns or cities the size of Luzern, occurred during World War II. Today,
Bern or Zürich, the the only Swiss
rivers and lakes are so mercenaries are the
clean that it is perfectly Swiss Guards, who
safe to swim in them. defend the Vatican
Most Alpine plants and act as the papal
and many wild animals bodyguard in Rome.
are protected by law, Switzerland has
and certain animals, the European head-
such as the ibex and quarters of the UN
wolf, have been and the world head-
reintroduced. Forests, quarters of the Inter-
which cover about a national Red Cross
third of the country, based in Geneva,
are also protected. and sees its role in
Forestry is tightly international affairs as
regulated and logging Kayaking on the Valser Rhine a largely humani-
of large areas, which in Graubünden tarian one.
22 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

The Swiss Alps

About two-thirds of Swiss territory consists of
Alpine and sub-Alpine areas. At lower elevations up
to 1,500 m (5,000 ft) agricultural land and deciduous
trees predominate. These give way to coniferous forest,
which above 2,200 m (7,200 ft) in turn gives way to
scrub and alpine pastures. At altitudes above 3,000 m
(9,800 ft) mosses and lichens cover a desolate rocky
landscape, above which are snowfields, glaciers and
permanently snow-covered peaks. While snow and
rainfall increase with altitude, the Alpine climate is Meadow and pasture cover
affected by two seasonal winds, the cold, dry easterly almost half of Switzerland. Wild
clover and campanula grow
bise and the warm southerly Föhn, which brings clear, abundantly in the high meadows
sunny skies then rainfall to the western Alps. of the Bernese Oberland.
Mosses and
lichens cling to
the surface of
rugged crests
and precipitous
scree-filled
gorges.

Scrub, including
dwarf mountain
pine, as well as
rhododendron
and alder, cover
the transitional
zone between the
forests and the
Glacial lakes, formed by the melting of high mountain
glaciers, are a common sight in Alpine peaks. At this
valleys. The Bachalpsee, near which rises altitude the
growing season,
the Wetterhorn, lies at the heart of a
from June to
particularly scenic part of the Swiss Alps. August, is brief.

Lush vegetation
thrives on sheltered
slopes and along
High alpine meadows
gulleys cut by
mountain streams. provide lush summer
grazing for cattle.

MOUNTAIN LANDSCAPE
The Alps are cut through by deep
valleys, terraces, cols and gorges.
To the south of the Alps lies the
canton of Ticino, which enjoys a
Mediterranean climate. To their
north are the long limestone
sub-Alpine ranges, whose sheer
rockfaces merge into the flatter
Mittelland, central Switzerland’s
relatively low-lying plateau.

Forests in Switzerland are closely

monitored and protected. Clearing
hillsides, which increases the danger
of avalanches, is forbidden.
 A P O R T R A I T O F S W I T Z E R L A N D 23

Alpine streams
ALPINE PLANTS AND ANIMALS
flowing through
dense pine forests In spring Switzerland’s high Alpine
are a part of the meadows are covered with a carpet of
extraordinarily flowers, including aster, edelweiss,
beautiful scenery campion, and several species of gentian.
in the Swiss Most Alpine flowers are protected and it is
National Park. forbidden to pick them. Alpine wildlife
includes ibex and chamois, marmot, Alpine
hare, golden eagle, bearded vulture, and the
rarely seen European lynx. Several species
of these animals, including those that have
Spruce
predominates
been reintroduced, are also protected.
in forests at
Edelweiss, the symbol of
higher
altitudes. Switzerland, grows among
rocks at altitudes up to
3,500 m (11,500 ft). It has
star-shaped flowers and
woolly leaves.

Alpenrose, a species of
rhododendron, grows
mostly at altitudes of
2,500 m (8,200 ft). Its
flowers create large
areas of dense colour.

Gentian grows
mainly in rock crevices
and in woodlands.
Its roots
are used
in the
pharm-
aceutical
industry.

The Alpine ibex lives above the

tree line for most of the year. A
species of wild goat, it is
extremely agile over
mountainous terrain.

The chamois, a goat

antelope, frequents
regions between
wooded mountainsides
and the snow line.
Agile and shy,
it is seldom seen
at close
range.

The marmot lives in burrows

Areas of grassland, like this one around the in Alpine meadows. When
Schwarzsee, a lake at the foot of the Matterhorn, disturbed, it emits a piercing,
provide summer grazing for sheep. Thick snow high-pitched whistle.
covers these pastures during winter.
24 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

Formation of the Alps

About 70 million years ago, the Adriatic
Microplate began to drift northward, colliding
with the rigid European Plate. While the
oceanic floor that lay between them was
forced downwards, the Adriatic Microplate was
thrust upwards, creating the Alps. This up-
heaval, which continued until 2 million years
ago, caused the upper strata of rock to fold
over on themselves. The older metamorphic
rocks, thrust up from the substratum, thus form
the highest part of the Alps, while the more
The Matterhorn, carved by the action of
recent sedimentary and igneous rocks make up
ice, is the most distinctive and best-
the lower levels. The action of glaciers during known of Switzerland’s peaks. Lofty
successive ice ages then scoured and sculpted and awe-inspiring, it rises to a height
the Alps, giving them their present appearance. of 4,478 m (14,691 ft).

Jura mountains

The Aletsch Glacier, in the

Bernese Alps, covers about European
86 sq km (33 sq miles) and is plate
about 900 m (2,952 ft) deep. It
Mantle
is the largest glacier in the Alps.
Mittelland plateau

ALPINE GLACIERS Snowfield

Vestiges of the Ice Age, Hanging valley

Alpine glaciers continue
their erosive action. As they
advance, they scour valley Glacial lake
floors and sides, carrying
away rocks which are
ground and then deposited Tongue of glacier
as lateral and terminal
moraines. Glacial lakes fill
basins scooped out by Lateral moraine
glaciers. Hanging valleys
were created when glaciers
deepened the main valley. Karst spring

Medial moraine
Terminal moraine
Crevasses
 A P O R T R A I T O F S W I T Z E R L A N D 25

THE SWISS ALPS

Apart from those in the
eastern part of the canton of
Graubünden, the Swiss Alps,
like the French Alps, belong
to the Western Alpine Group,
which in turn consists of ten
separate ranges. This part of
the Alpine range has the
highest and steepest peaks and
most contorted geological
formations. It is also where
Switzerland’s landscapes of
snow and ice are at their most
The Jura mountains, consisting of fossil-rich marl and breathtaking. The Valais Alps
limestone, are relatively low. They feature caves, sinkholes contain many of Switzerland’s
and underground streams. Because of their exceptionally most impressive peaks,
well-preserved strata, the mountains gave their name to a including the Matterhorn
geological period, the Jurassic. and Dufourspitze, which at
4,634 m (15,203 ft) is the
Western Alps
country’s highest mountain.
Southern Alps The southern Alps lie in the
canton of Ticino. The eastern
Alps contain the Swiss
Direction of National Park.
tectonic thrust

KEY
Western Alps

Eastern Alps

Southern Alps

Swiss upland

Jura mountains

Adriatic
Plate

Mantle
ALPINE
LANDSCAPE
Shaped by the action of ice, the landscape of the
Alps was created during a succession of ice ages The Swiss National Park is situated
that occurred 600,000 to 10,000 years ago. During in the Rhaetian Alps, which form
periods of glaciation, the ice sheet was up to 2,000 m part of the Eastern Alpine Group. Its
pristine Alpine landscape, covering
(6,500 ft) thick. Typical of the glacial landscape are 180 sq km (70 sq miles) in
sharp ridges, steep gullies, flat-bottomed valleys Graubünden, ranges from evergreen
carved out by advancing glaciers, glacial lakes and forest to desolate rocky areas and
hanging valleys with waterfalls creating streams. permanent snow at high altitudes.
26 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

Swiss Architecture
Serene Romanesque abbeys, lofty
Gothic cathedrals, lavishly
decorated Baroque churches
and town houses with painted
façades all form part of
Switzerland’s architectural
Tympanum of Basel’s heritage. For most of its history,
Romanesque Münster however, Swiss architecture
reflected various European
influences – German in the north and east, French in
the west, and Italian in the south – without developing
a distinctive style until the mid-20th century. Swiss
vernacular architecture, however, has always been Painted façade of a fine
distinctive. It is epitomized by the Alpine chalet, of 16th-century town house in
which there are several local variants. Stein-am-Rhein, Schaffhausen.

ROMANESQUE (10TH–12TH CENTURIES)

As elsewhere in western Europe, the flowering of the
Romanesque style in Switzerland was due largely to the
diffusion of religious orders, which spearheaded a renewal
in religious architecture.
Romanesque buildings are
characterized by massive walls,
rounded arches, groin vaulting,
and a restrained use of
decorative carving. Among
the finest examples of the
style in Switzerland are the
Benedictine monastery at
The Grossmünster in Zürich, St Gallen, the Münster zu
begun in the 11th century, was Allerheiligen in Schaffhausen,
stripped of its interior decor and its culmination, Basel’s The Romanesque crypt of
during the Reformation. remarkable Münster. Basel’s 12th-century Münster

GOTHIC (13TH–15TH CENTURIES) Single west tower

Characterized by pointed arches, ribbed vaulting crowned with
and flying buttresses, the Gothic style emphasizes pinnacles
vertical perspectives, with stained-glass windows
admitting light to lofty interiors and decoration on High buttresses
towers and portals. Fine examples of Swiss Gothic supporting the
architecture include the Cathédrale St-Pierre in Geneva tower
and Cathédrale de Nôtre-Dame in Lausanne, both of
French inspiration, and the Münster in Bern, in the
German Gothic style. Important Gothic secular
buildings include the Château de Vufflens and
Château de Chillon, and Bellinzona’s three castles,
Montebello, Sasso Corbaro and Castelgrande.

The Château
de Chillon, built Flying buttresses
by the Dukes of transmit the weight
Savoy on an islet of the roof to the
outer walls
near Montreux,
is one of the finest The Cathédrale St-Nicolas in Fribourg,
extant examples built in the 14th and 15th centuries,
of Gothic fortified exemplifies the High Gothic style.
architecture in
Switzerland.
 A P O R T R A I T O F S W I T Z E R L A N D 27

RENAISSANCE (15TH–16TH CENTURIES)

Coinciding with the Reformation, the Renaissance
reached Switzerland in the late 15th to early
16th centuries. The style is most clearly seen in
secular buildings, such as town halls, mansions
with arcaded courtyards and fine town houses,
like those in Bern. While the Gothic style
tended to persist in the country’s German-
speaking regions, Renaissance influence was
strongest in central and southern Switzerland.

The Rathaus in Luzern, completed in

1606, is built in the style of a Renaissance
Florentine palazzo but its mansard roof
reflects Swiss traditions.

The Collegio Pontificio di Papio in Ascona,

built around 1584, has a fine Renaissance
arcaded courtyard with a double tier of
beautifully proportioned arches.

BAROQUE (17TH–18TH CENTURIES)

The end of the Thirty Years’ War in 1648
was marked by a renewal in building
activity in Switzerland. In the country’s
Catholic regions many new churches
were built, and older ones
remodelled, in the Baroque style.
Characterized by extensive
ornamentation, painted ceilings,
scrollwork and gilding, the Baroque
in Switzerland came under foreign The Klosterkirche at Einsiedeln
influences and has north Italian has an ornate gilt and
and south German variants. The polychrome ceiling typical of
finest examples of Baroque the Baroque style.
architecture in Switzerland are the
Klosterkirche in Einsiedeln,
completed in 1745, and St Gallen St Gallen Cathedral, a fine example
Cathedral, completed in 1768. of Swiss Baroque architecture

THE SWISS CHALET Doors of

Characteristic of Switzerland and other adjacent wooden houses
Alpine areas, the chalet was originally a herdsman’s are of panel
house. Although there are many regional variations, construction,
the chalet is typically built of timber, generally to a and are usually
square plan, and is covered with a low-pitched roof covered with
made of wood, slate or stone. The roof usually decorations and
projects both at the eaves and at the gables, and the reinforced with
gable end is sometimes filled with a triangular area of ornamental
sloping roof. Many chalets also have balconies, which metalwork.
may be fronted with decoratively carved railings.

Rural house typical of the

Bern region of the Mittelland
during the Baroque period.
The roof is designed to enable
Half-timbered chalet at the it to withstand heavy coverings
Freilichtmuseum Ballenberg of snow.
28 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

Tunnels and Railways

The building of Switzerland’s renowned The Brienzer
railways, tunnels and viaducts began in Rothornbahn is
the mid-19th century, driven by the needs Switzerland’s oldest
steam cog railway.
of a precociously industrialized economy Steam-driven
and made possible by the technological trains climb to an
advances of the age. As track was laid altitude of 2,244 m
along seemingly inaccessible mountain (7,362 ft), enabling
routes, tunnels were driven beneath passengers to enjoy
mountains and viaducts built to span deep breathtaking views.
valleys. By the end of the 19th century,
narrow- and full-gauge rail networks,
including rack-and-pinion track on the
steepest inclines, covered the country.
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visitors, it is used mainly by modern #BTFM
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that opened in 1996. Skirting
Lake Geneva, it passes near the
beautiful Château de Chillon.

The Glacier Express

crosses 291 bridges and
viaducts and runs
through 91 tunnels
on its scenic route between
Zermatt and St Moritz.
 A P O R T R A I T O F S W I T Z E R L A N D 29

0 km 30
The Schynige Plat-
te Bahn, a rack 0 miles 30
railway that opened
in 1893, attracts
many visitors. In
summer trains run
from the village of
Wilderswil up to
Schynige Platte, at
1,967 m (6,453 ft).
Along the way
there are fine views
of Interlaken and
the Thunersee.

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The Bernina Express from Chur to Tirano runs

on one of the highest railways in the Alps – the
Bernina Pass – without the aid of cogs.

The Matterhorn-Gotthard-Bahn, part of

the Glacier Express route, links Valais and
Graubünden, crossing the Oberalp Pass at
2,033 m (6,669 ft).
30 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

SWITZERLAND THROUGH THE YEAR

T he Swiss enjoy a great
variety of festivals. These
range from colourful spec-
tacles in which entire towns, cities
and villages take part, to sophisti-
such as Bern’s onion fair in Novem-
ber, have a more local, though no
less historic, significance. Many folk
festivals, particularly those ushering
in the arrival of spring, have pagan
cated art, music and film festivals, roots, and in mountain villages
some of which are internationally cows are honoured in ceremonies
famous. Among these are the that mark the spring and autumn
Lucerne Festival of classical music transhumance – the seasonal
and Bern’s International Jazz Alphorn, seen at movement of livestock.
Festival (March–May). folk festivals Between December and
While the country unites to celebrate March, the country also hosts many
its origins on National Day (1 August), a winter sports events, including several
large proportion of popular festivals, world championships.

Basel World, Basel.

Watch and jewellery fair.
Primavera Concertistica
(mid-April–June), Lugano.
Classical music concerts.
Fête de la Tulipe (mid-
April–mid-May), Morges.
Colourful tulip festival.
Fête du Soleil (late April),
Lausanne. Carnival with
bands and markets.
Combat des Reines
(mid-April), Valais.
Traditional cow fighting
takes place in four Swiss
valleys – Heremence, Herens,
Anniviers and Bagnes.
Chalandamarz, a children’s spring festival in the Engadine on 1 March Landsgemeinde (last
Sunday in April), Appenzell
Major cross-country skiing Innerrhoden. Open-air
SPRING marathon run from Maloja cantonal voting session.
to S-chanf by with about
The early spring is a time 12,000 participants. MAY
of transition. As the winter International Motor Show
sports season nears its end, (March), Geneva. Landsgemeinde
cold dark days begin to Prestigious annual event. (1st Sunday in May),
brighten and the first of the Verbier Xtreme (mid-March). Glarus. An open-air cantonal
spring festivals, at which winter Daredevil off piste skiing voting session conducted
is ritually despatched, take and boarding, Verbier. by a show of hands.
place. Open-air voting Snow and Symphony Combat des Reines
sessions resume, cows are (late March–early April), (early May), Valais.
ceremonially taken up to their St Moritz. World-famous Cantonal cow-fighting
summer pastures, and in the orchestras and soloists championships.
Valais the first cow fights of present a series of 20
the year are held. concerts of classical music
and jazz.
MARCH Oesterfestspiele (around
Easter), Luzern. Festival of
International Jazzfestival Easter music.
(March–May), Bern. Major
three-month festival of blues, APRIL
jazz and gospel music.
Chalandamarz (1 March), Sechseläuten
villages all over the Engadine. (3rd Monday in April),
Children’s spring festival, Zürich. Spring festival with
with costumed parades. parade of medieval guilds
Engadine Ski Marathon and the ritual burning of Traditional cow fights, held in
(2nd Sunday in March). Böögg (Old Man Winter). Valais in spring
 S W I T Z E R L A N D T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 31

AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE

Hours
12

9 Sunshine Chart
July is the sunniest
6 month, but May,
June and August
3 also feature sunny
weather. The
0
cloudiest months
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec are in winter,
from November
to January.

AUGUST

National Day (1 August),

throughout Switzerland.
Celebrations, with fireworks,
music, street illuminations and
lantern processions, marking
the birth of the Swiss
Confederation in 1291.
Fêtes de Genève
(early August), Geneva.
Ten days of classical, rave
and folk music, as well as
plays, firework displays
and competitions.
International Film Festival
Dancers in traditional costume at a summer folk festival in Appenzell (early August), Locarno.
Some 7,000 spectators enjoy
Major international contem- outdoor viewings on Europe’s
SUMMER porary art fair. biggest cinema screen.
William Tell (late June–mid- Street Parade (either of
In mountain villages summer September), Interlaken. Open- the first two weekends in
is celebrated with a host of air performances of Schiller’s August), Zürich. Huge
folk festivals, with much play about the Swiss hero. open-air gathering of half a
eating, drinking and million techno-music fans.
merriment. Elsewhere, the JULY Inferno Triathlon (mid-
first of many open-air events, August), Jungfrau region. Bike
including music festivals and Open-Air Rock and Pop and run 5,500 m (18,045 ft)
summer sporting Music Festival (early July), uphill, then swim 3,100 m
events, takes place. St Gallen. (2 miles) to cool off.
At the height of Montreux Jazz Festival Luzern Festival (mid-
summer, Swiss (6–21 July), Montreux. August–mid-September),
National Day (1 Festival of jazz blues, rock, Luzern. The famous festival
August) is celebrated reggae and soul music. of classical music, with
in every town and Free concerts on the international orchestras,
village with bonfires promenade. conductors and soloists.
and fireworks. Swiss Open (first two
weeks in July), Gstaad.
JUNE International men’s
tennis tournament.
Alpaufzug (mid-June), International
Everywhere in the Alps. Rowing Regattas,
Cows, adorned with (mid–July), Luzern.
flowers, are herded to World Cup final
high Alpine meadows, rowing races on
while celebrations are the Rotsee.
held in villages. Avenches Opera
Corpus Christi, Participant in the Fêtes Festival, (6–21
des Vignerons, Vevey
the Catholic cantons. July), World-class
Processions in opera productions
local costume. staged in the 6,000-seat Celebrations on National Day in
Art Basel (mid-June), Basel. Roman amphitheatre. Oberhofen, on the Thunersee
32 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

AVERAGE PRECIPITATION
In
Mm 8
200 Precipitation
The heaviest rainfall
6
150 in Switzerland occurs
during the summer
100
4 months. Winter brings
heavy snowfalls,
2
especially at high
50
altitudes. However, the
annual precipitation
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
in some regions, such
as Valais, is lower than
the national average.

Nidwalden. Folk festival with

AUTUMN alphorns and yodelling.

When the trees on the NOVEMBER

Alpine hillsides start to take
on autumnal colours and the Räben-Chilbi (2nd Saturday
vines are heavy with ripe in November), Richterswil.
grapes, it is time to give thanks Young people carrying
for the harvest. Colourful agri- lanterns made of turnips join
cultural fairs are held across in a procession.
the country; chestnut and wine Bach Festival (two weeks in
festivals take place everywhere early November), Lausanne.
and the cows are returned to Gansabhauet (mid-November),
their valley pastures, where Sursee. Ancient harvest festival
they will spend the winter. rite in which blindfolded con-
testants try to behead a dead
SEPTEMBER goose with a blunt sword.
Festivities marking the return of Zibelemärit (4th Monday in
European Masters (early cows from their Alpine pastures November), Bern. Onion fair,
September), Crans Montana. with confetti battle and other
Switzerland’s premier golfing Basel. Switzerland’s largest and festive activities marking the
event, a highlight of the longest-established food fair beginning of winter.
PGA European tour. and funfair runs for two weeks. Expovina (2–16 November),
La Bénichon (end La Bénichon (3rd Sunday Zürich. Fair, with wine-
September), Gruyere. in October), Châtel-St-Denis. tastings, at which wines
Festival of thanksgiving. Harvest thanksgiving, with imported from all over the
Knabenschiessen (2nd procession in traditional dress. world are put on display
weekend in September), Älplerchilbi (October–early on ships moored along
Zürich. Shooting contest for November), Obwalden and Bürkliplatz.
boys and girls aged 12–16.
Vintage Festival (late
September), Neuchâtel.
The largest of its kind in
Switzerland. Others are held
throughout the country.
Fête de la Désalpe (last
Saturday in September), across
the Alps. Celebrations as cows
decorated with flowers are
brought down from their
summer grazing in the high
Alpine meadows.

OCTOBER

Combats des Reines (early

October), Martigny. Cow fight-
ing in the Roman amphitheatre,
the ultimate winner being
proclaimed Reine des Reines
(Queen of the Queens).
Autumn Fair (early October), September Vintage Harvest, Neuchâtel
 S W I T Z E R L A N D T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 33

AVERAGE TEMPERATURES
°C °F
25 80

20 70 Temperatures
15 60
Temperatures are
highest in June, July
10 50 and August, though
they rarely exceed
5 40 30° C (86° F). The
coldest month is
0 30
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec December, when
temperatures often
drop below freezing.

Silvaplana. Europe’s largest

open-air curling contest.
World Snow Festival
(mid-January), Grindelwald.
Fantastic ice-sculpture contest,
held on a natural skating rink.
Hot-Air Balloon Week (late
Jan), Château d’Oex. Week-
long spectacle as the skies fill
with colourful hot-air balloons.
Cartier Polo World Cup on
Snow (late January), St Mo-
ritz. Polo played on the frozen
lake at St Moritz.

FEBRUARY
Ice sculptures at the World Snow Festival in Grindelwald
Roitschäggättä (week before
DECEMBER Ash Wednesday), Lötschental.
WINTER Nocturnal parades by men
St Nicholas Day (on or wearing grotesque masks.
Advent, Christmas and the around 6 December), all over White Turf (1st half of
Feast of St Nicholas are the Switzerland. Parades and fairs February), St Moritz.
main focus of fairs and celebrating Santa Claus’ arrival. International horse races held
festivals in December. New Fête de l’Escalade (1st Sat in on the frozen lake.
Year is exuberantly celebrated December), Geneva. Festival Fasnacht (late February to
throughout the country. In commemorating the Duke of early March), Basel. Major
some parts of Switzerland it is Savoy’s failed attempt to spring carnival lasting three
marked twice, first in capture Geneva in 1602. days and three nights, with
accordance with the Spengler Cup (late thousands of costumed
current Gregorian December), Davos. World figures playing drums and
calendar, and again ice-hockey tournament. piccolos. Also celebrated
according to the New Year’s Eve (31 around the same time in
older Julian December), villages of Luzern, Bern and other towns.
calendar. This is Appenzell. Masked char-
also the season of acters with cow-bells PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
a variety of winter usher in the New Year. New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
sports events, from New Year’s Eve (31
Good Friday
ice hockey and curling December), Verbier.
(Karfreitag, Vendredi Saint)
to horse-racing on ice. The biggest, wildest
Between New Year and outdoor rave in the Alps Easter Monday
mid-March, countless with hours of fireworks (Ostermontag,
carnival balls, folk broadcast live on TV. Lundi de Paques)
festivals with masquerades Ascension Day
and fancy dress keep JANUARY (Himmelfahrt, Ascension)
spirits up through Carnival participant, Whit Monday
the cold winter in devil’s costume Vogel Gryff (mid- (Pfingstmontag,
months. They to late January), Lundi de Pentecôte)
culminate in Fasnacht, a Basel. Three-day folk festival National Day (1 Aug)
three-day festival held in involving a lion, a griffin and Christmas Holiday (25
many parts of Switzerland, Wild Man of the Woods. & 26 Dec)
which precedes Lent. Coppa Romana (mid-Jan),
 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D 35

THE HISTORY OF SWITZERLAND

T
he history of Switzerland began in 1291, when three small
cantons formed an alliance against their foreign overlords, the
Habsburgs. As other cantons joined, the alliance expanded,
but there followed centuries of instability, with bitter conflict between
cantons and religious groups. It was not until 1848 that a central
government was established and that modern Switzerland was born.
HELVETI AND RHAETIANS By the 6th century, the Swiss
From about 500 BC, the lands territories of the Alemani and
that now comprise Switzerland Burgundians had been taken
were settled by two peoples, by the Franks. These lands
the Rhaetians, possibly an were later incorporated
Etruscan people who into Charlemagne’s Holy
settled in a small area in Roman Empire, and in
the east, and the Helveti, a 843 they were divided
powerful Celtic tribe, who between his grandsons.
settled in the west. The Bust of Marcus Aurelius
from Avenches
Helveti established several ALLIANCE OF THE CANTONS
small townships here, In 1033, Burgundy was
including La Tène, near Neuchâtel. reunited within the Holy Roman
Empire. However, as imperial power
FROM ROMAN TO FRANKISH RULE declined, feudal dynasties came to
By 58 BC both Helvetia and Rhaetia, as prominence. The most powerful was
they were known, were incorporated that of the Habsburgs. In 1291, the
in the Roman Empire, the Helveti free peasants of the Forest Cantons
becoming allies of the Romans against of Schwyz, Uri and Unterwalden
warlike tribes to the north. Under formed an alliance against Habsburg
Roman rule Aventicum (Avenches), power, their delegates meeting in
capital of the Helveti, became a Rütli Meadow to swear their mutual
Roman province. Other towns with allegiance. This was the nucleus of
villas were built, agriculture what later became the Swiss
flourished and new roads were laid Confederation. In the 14th century
out. In AD 260, Helvetia and Rhaetia they were joined by the cantons of
were once again attacked by Luzern, Zürich, Glarus, Zug and
Germanic tribes. While the eastern Bern. In their attempts to break the
region was taken by the Alemani, Confederation, the Habsburgs
driving the Rhaetians into the hinter- suffered crushing defeats in a
land, the western region was seized succession of battles with the
by Burgundians. In 401 the Romans Confederates, who eventually won
abandoned their Alpine province. their independence in 1499.

TIMELINE
AD 69 Uprising of the 6th century Franks 1033 Burgundy incorporated in
5th century BC Helveti against the Romans conquer Aleman and the Holy Roman Empire
The Helveti and Burgundian territories
Rhaetians begin to 260 First incursions 1291 The three Forest
settle in the Alps by the Alemani Cantons form an alliance

200 BC AD 1 500 1000 1500

c. 500 BC 5th century Settlement by 1499
The Helveti 401 The Romans the Alemani, Burgundians Switzerland gains
establish the abandon their and Lombards independence
settlement of Alpine province
La Tène Reliquary in the
shape of a foot

Representatives of the three Forest Cantons swearing the oath of allegiance on Rütli Meadow in 1291
36 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

The Struggle for Independence

In 1291, on the death of Emperor Rudolf I, Officer of the Swiss Guard
representatives of the cantons of Schwyz, Uri The reputation of the Swiss
and Unterwalden decided to form an as courageous soldiers
alliance against the power and tyranny prompted Pope Julius II to
of the Habsburgs. The oath of form the Swiss Guard in
mutual allegiance that they swore 1506, to act as his
at Rütli Meadow in August that bodyguards
year laid the foundations of the and to protect
Swiss Confederation. The wars the Vatican.
that the Confederates fought
against the Habsburgs and the
Burgundians in the 14th and
15th centuries demonstrated the
superiority of agile peasant troops
over heavily armed knights. The
Swiss also became renowned for their
valour as soldiers and were sought after
as mercenaries throughout Europe.

Battle of Dornach (1499)

Confederate soldiers launched a surprise attack on troops
commanded by Heinrich von Fürstenberg, who was killed
in the battle.

Mercenary troops sent by

Charles VII of France to
aid the Habsburg cause
march on Basel.

Shield of Schwyz
Battle of Morgarten (1315) Originally plain red, as
The army of Duke Leopold of here, the shield of Schwyz
Habsburg suffered a crushing was later charged with a
defeat when it fought against white cross. A red cross on
peasant Confederate forces at a white ground became the
the Battle of Morgarten. Confederation’s emblem.
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S W I T Z E R L A N D 37

Confederate soldiers at
the foot of a tower rally
behind a banner with the
emblem of Basel. Crossbow
The crossbow was the basic weapon
in the Swiss army’s arsenal.

Defensive
walls
around
Basel

William Tell’s Arrow

According to legend, William
Confederate Tell was sentenced to death
defenders by the Austrian bailiff
in a fortified Hermann Gessler for refusing
camp around to acknowledge Habsburg
the church.
power but won a reprieve by
shooting an apple off his son’s
head with his crossbow.
St Jakob’s William Tell later killed Gessler.
Church

BATTLE OF ST JAKOB
In 1444, at the request of the Habsburg
king Friedrich III, Charles VII of France
sent a 20,000-strong army of mercenaries Battle of Laupen (1339)
to Switzerland. In their fortified camp at After the siege of Bern, the armies of
St Jakob, on the River Birs, near Basel, Bern and Luzern give thanks to God for
defenders of the Confederation put up their defeat of the Duke of Burgundy
a heroic defence but were slaughtered. and his ally, the canton of Fribourg.
38 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

Reformation in Switzerland
were the humanist Ulrich
Zwingli (1484–1531), who
was active in Zürich, and
Jean Calvin (1509–64), who
led the movement in Geneva.
While the urban cantons
embraced the Reformation,
the poorer and more
conservative cantons of
central Switzerland remained
faithful to Catholicism.
Defeat of the Swiss at the Battle of Marignano (1515) Despite this rift, the cantons
remained loyal to the
THE PEAK OF TERRITORIAL POWER Confederation throughout the wars
Emboldened by independence, yet of religion that swept through Europe
surrounded by territories held by the in the 17th century.
Habsburgs and other powers,
the Swiss Confederation PROSPERITY AND INDUSTRY
attempted to secure and The Swiss Confederation’s
expand its territory to the independence from the Austrian
north, east and south. In Empire was formally
1512, Confederate troops recognized by the Peace of
conquered Lombardy, Westphalia, which ended
occupying Locarno and t h e T h i r t y Ye a r s ’ Wa r
Lugano. However, their Bed made in Bern in (1618–48). Switzerland did
stand against combined the 16th century not take part in the conflict,
French and Venetian forces and this contributed to a
at Marignano in 1515 ended in boost in the country’s economy.
defeat, after which Switzerland During the war Switzerland had in
abandoned its policy of expansion fact played a key role in trade
a n d m o v e d t o w a r d s m i l i t a r y throughout Europe, and the arrival of
neutrality. The Confederation itself, refugees, particularly Huguenots,
h o w e v e r, c o n t i n u e d t o g r o w , revitalized Switzerland’s textile
Fribourg and Solothurn joining in
1481, Basel and Schaffhausen in 1501
and Appenzell in 1513. The cantons
now numbered 13.

THE REFORMATION
The great religious and political
movement to reform the Roman
Catholic Church originated in
Germany in the early 16th century and
quickly spread throughout western Burning of religious paintings, in response to
Europe. At the vanguard of the Zwingli’s preaching against the worship of images

TIMELINE
1515 Battle of 1680s–1690s. The brothers Jakob
Marignano. The and Johann Bernoulli, at Basel University,
1559 Jean Calvin founds
Confederation declares lay the foundations of the theory of
neutrality the Calvin Academy in probability and integral calculus
Geneva

1500 1550 1600 1650 1700

1525 Zwingli’s reforms accepted 1684 Peace of Westphalia

by the church authorities in Zürich guarantees Switzerland’s neutrality
Louis XIV and representatives
of the Swiss Confederation
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S W I T Z E R L A N D 39

the short-lived and unpopular

Helvetic Republic. The Swiss
Confederation, as it was now known,
was restored in 1803, although it
remained under French control until
the fall of Napoleon in 1815.

THE SWISS CONFEDERATION

Six further cantons – St Gallen, Grau-
bünden, Aargau, Thurgau, Ticino and
Vaud – joined the Confederation in
1803, and Valais, Neuchâtel and
Geneva in 1815. Internal religious
hostilities continued, however, and in
1845 seven Catholic cantons formed a
military alliance known as the
Sonderbund. Condemned as unconsti-
tutional by the Protestant cantons, this
led to civil war, and the defeat of the
William Tell victorious over the dragon of the Catholic faction by Protestant forces.
French Revolution, a symbol of Swiss resistance A new constitution was drawn up
in 1848, transforming what had until
industry. Industrial expansion then been a loose confederation of
continued in the 18th century, when cantons into a union ruled by a
the weaving of silk, linen and cotton Federal Assembly in Bern, which was
became mechanized, while clock- chosen as the Swiss capital. National
making, introduced to Switzerland by unity was, however, tested again in
French and Italian refugees in the 1857, when Prussia threatened to take
16th century, became one of the the canton of Neuchâtel. The 100,000-
country’s most important industries. strong Swiss army sent to the Rhine
border repelled Prussian ambitions.
THE HELVETIC REPUBLIC
The principles of the French
Revolution were supported
by Switzerland’s French-
speaking regions, but this
was a threat to the stability
of the Confederation. In
1798, having conquered
northern Italy, and wishing
to control routes between
Italy and France, Napoleon
invaded Switzerland. Under
Napoleon the 13 cantons of
the Confederation were
abolished and replaced with The Swiss army bound for the Rhine to defend Neuchâtel in 1857

1723 Leonhard Euler, founder 1815 Napoleon is 1857 The Confederation

of modern mathematics and defeated. Congress of repels Prussia’s attempt
author of almost 900 Vienna reaffirms the to take the canton of
publications, graduates at Basel eternal neutrality of Neuchâtel
the Swiss Confederation Henri Dunant

1750 1800 1850 1900

1864 Henri Dunant
1798 Invasion by the 1847 Civil war and defeat founds the International
French. Establishment of of the Sonderbund Red Cross in Geneva
the Helvetic Republic
1848 The new constitution
French grenadier establishes central government
40 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

Economic Growth
As early as the 17th century, Switzerland already had Excited crowds
active textile and clockmaking industries, the gather around the
foundations of which were laid by Huguenot refugees Egyptian-style
from France. By the second half of the 18th century, statue personifying
aided by its neutrality in international politics, the industry.
growing affluence of the middle classes and long periods
of domestic peace, Switzerland was becoming one of the
most industrially advanced countries in Europe. Swiss Allegory of
economic growth accelerated in the 19th century, when Justice
the textile industry was mechanized and exports increased.
This was also a boom period for precision engineering and
the chemicals industry. Swiss foods, including Philippe
Suchard’s chocolate, Henri Nestlé’s powdered milk and
Julius Maggi’s stock cubes became international brands.

The Swiss Pavilion at the

Great Exhibition of 1851 A locomotive,
The 270 exhibits in the Swiss Pavilion symbol of modern
included textiles and lace, clocks and technical
watches, and pharmaceuticals. There achievement.
was also a model of Strasbourg
Cathedral made by Jules Leemann,
a sculptor from Bern.
Women
workers
operating
belt-driven
machinery.

An entrepreneur
presenting his
products to
interested
merchants.

Invention of the Telegraph

The first electric telegraph was built
by the physicist Georges-Louis in
Geneva in 1774.

Development of the Railway Network

Zürich’s imposing Hauptbahnhof, or central
station, was built in 1867.
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S W I T Z E R L A N D 41

Clock- and Watchmaking

The Swiss clock is a symbol of ST GOTTHARD PASS
accuracy and reliability. The gateway over the Alps
between central and southern
Switzerland, the St Gotthard
Pass lies at 2,108 m (6,919 ft)
above sea level. On one of the
main transport routes between
Germany and Italy, it is also
one of Europe’s crucial arteries.
With international funding of
102 billion Swiss francs, work
on building a tunnel and a
Allegory of railway line beneath the pass
Industry began in 1871. It opened to
traffic in 1882.

Poster for St Moritz

From the 19th century, the
popularity of Swiss resorts
and tourist regions began to
grow rapidly.

Driving a mail waggon

over the pass was arduous,
sometimes dangerous and,
because of heavy snow,
possible only in summer.

Road Through the Alps

In the 19th century
Switzerland’s dramatic
Alpine scenery began to Italian workers who were
employed to drill the tunnel
attract numerous visitors.
staged a strike in 1875.
Intervention by the army
A group of clients,
eventually brought a return
including a German
to work.
visitor wearing a coat
with a fur collar,
and an American
donning a wide-
brimmed hat.

APEX OF INDUSTRIAL
DEVELOPMENT
This monumental fresco in the Musée
d’Art et d’Histoire in Neuchâtel (see p131)
portrays the achievements of Swiss
industry in the 19th century. Through Swiss Chocolate
allegory the painting depicts the environ- Among Swiss chocolate manufacturers whose
ment in which Swiss industry consolidated brands became known worldwide in the 19th
its position in the international market. century was Philippe Suchard (1797–1884).
42 I N T R O D U C I N G S W I T Z E R L A N D

THE INTER-WAR YEARS

In 1920 Switzerland voted to
join the newly formed League
of Nations and, in tribute to
the country’s neutrality,
Geneva was chosen as the
organization’s headquarters.
While the 1920s had been a
period of prosperity, Switzer-
land, like the rest of Europe,
fell prey to the Depression of
the early 1930s. Also at this
time, Switzerland’s pacific
First assembly of the League of Nations, Geneva, in 1920 stance and democracy were
threatened by Nazi and Fascist
WORLD WAR I sympathisers among its population.
At the outbreak of World War I, By the late 1930s, as war seemed
maintaining its neutrality was one of imminent, Switzerland’s economy
Switzerland’s principal concerns. accelerated, fuelled partly by the
Relations between French- and booming arms industry in which the
German-speaking Swiss deteriorated, country was involved and by the fact
as both linguistic groups supported that Swiss banks now played an
opposing sides in the war. However, important role in international finance.
appeals for national unity averted the
danger of open conflict.
By 1915, some 100,000 Swiss
troops had been mobilized to guard
the country’s frontiers. As the war
went on, Switzerland embarked on a
wide-ranging aid programme for some
68,000 prisoners of war and refugees.
Political asylum-seekers who had
come to Switzerland included many
heads of state and political figures,
including the Bolshevik leader Lenin
and the Russian revolutionaries
Trotsky and Zinoviev.
The revolutionary socialist ideas
that they brought fomented unrest
among Swiss workers, which
culminated in the General Strike of
1918. The strike was quickly broken
by the army but, as a result of their
action, the workers won proportional
representation, improved welfare and General Henri Guisan, Commander-in-Chief of
a 48-hour working week. the armed forces, at the outbreak of war in 1939

TIMELINE
1918 General Strike 1934 Carl G. Jung, founder of
1901 Henri Dunant, founder of and introduction of modern psychology, becomes
the International Red Cross, the 48-hour week head of the Department of
receives the first Nobel Peace Psychology at Zürich University
Prize to be awarded
1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950
1914–18 Switzerland 1939–45 Switzerland
maintains neutrality maintains neutrality during
during World War I 1922 The World War II
Simplon
1920 Switzerland joins Tunnel
the League of Nations opens Drilling the Simplon Tunnel
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S W I T Z E R L A N D 43

Swiss artists and scientists were also

coming to prominence. Among them
were the artists Paul Klee (1879–1940)
and Alberto Giacometti (1901–66),
the architect Le Corbusier (1887–1965)
and the psychologist Carl G. Jung
(1875–1961).

WORLD WAR II
In 1940, with Nazi Germany to the
north and east, France under German Demonstration in 1963 by women demanding the
occupation to the west and Fascist right to vote in national elections
Italy to the south, Switzerland was
s u r r o u n d e d . I n v a s i o n s e e m e d was not until 1971 that women won
inevitable, collaboration with Germany the right to vote in federal elections
was suspected and the advantages of and the country continues to reject
submitting to Germany were even membership of the European
contemplated. General Henri Guisan, Union, although popular opinion is
Commander-in-Chief of the Swiss divided on this issue. Switzerland
army, responded by assembling did, however, vote to join the
his officers on RUtli Meadow, United Nations in 2002. In line
birthplace of the Confederation, with increasing globalization,
in 1291. Here he reaffirmed Switzerland has softened its
Switzerland’s neutrality and isolationist stance, and its
demanded that all officers relations with the EU remain at
renew their vows of allegiance the top of the political agenda.
to the Confederation. In late 1996, the country was
Although Switzerland was rocked by the “Nazi Gold” scan-
not directly drawn into World dal, when it was alleged that
War II, it played a part in the Swiss banks were holding gold
conflict. The country acted as looted by the
a secret meeting place between Nazis and the
leaders of the Allied and Axis assets of Jews
powers and set up anonymous Diego by Alberto who had per-
bank accounts for German Giacometti ished in the
Jews. Swiss banks also pro- Holocaust. Under
vided currency for the purchase of strong US pressure,
military equipment and exchanged Switzerland agreed, in
gold pillaged by the Germans for August 1998, to pay
currency needed by the Third Reich. $1.25 billion in com-
pensation to families of
POSTWAR YEARS TO THE PRESENT Holocaust victims and
Unlike all other European countries, to certain Jewish organ-
Switzerland remained untouched by izations – leaving a Poster for Swiss
the upheaval of war and detached severe impression on membership of the
from the postwar new world order. It the national psyche. European Union

Carl G. Jung (1875–1961) 1992 Switzerland rejects

membership of the EU
1971 Women obtain federal
voting rights 2002 Switzerland votes to
join the United Nations
1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010
1960 Professor Auguste Piccard’s 1996 The “Nazi Gold”
son Jacques reaches a record scandal emerges
depth of 10,911 m (35,800 ft) in
the Pacific Ocean in a bathysphere
designed by his father Celebratory salute on the 700th anniversary
of the Swiss Confederation in 1991
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