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8 views4 pages

Wave Action

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divya.3092015
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We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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 Wave action:

o Constructive waves: build up the beach; low energy; strong swash,


weak backwash.
o Destructive waves: erode the coast; high energy; strong backwash,
weak swash.
 Erosion (wearing away of coastal rock):
o Hydraulic action: a force of waves compresses air in cracks.

o Abrasion (Corrosion): Rocks hurled by waves scrape the coastline.

o Attrition: rocks collide, breaking into smaller, smoother pieces.

o Solution (Corrosion): acidic seawater dissolves soluble rocks like


chalk or limestone.
 Transportation:
o Longshore drift: sediment movement along the coast due to an
angled wave approach.
o Traction: large particles rolled along the seafloor.

o Saltation: small pebbles bounce along.

o Suspension: light material carried within the water.

o Solution: dissolved materials carried in water.

 Deposition: occurs when wave energy drops, depositing material.


Weathering
 Mechanical:
o Freeze-thaw weathering – water enters cracks, freezes, expands,
and breaks rock apart.
 Chemical:
o Acid rain or sea spray reacts with minerals (e.g. carbonation on
limestone).
 Biological:
o Plant roots grow in cracks or animals burrow, breaking down the
rock.
Mass Movement
 Sliding: material moves in a straight line down a slope.
 Slumping: saturated soil and weak rock rotate and slump downhill.

b) Influence on Coastal Environments


 Geology:
o Hard rock (granite) erodes slowly → headlands, cliffs.

o Soft rock (clay, sandstone) erodes quickly → bays, gentle slopes.

 Vegetation:
o Stabilises dunes and salt marshes.

o Helps trap sediment and reduce erosion.

 Human Activity:
o Coastal defences, tourism, and urbanisation alter natural processes.

o Dredging or building disrupts sediment transport.

 Sea-Level Change:
o Eustatic change: global rise/fall due to melting ice or thermal
expansion.
o Isostatic change: local rise/fall due to land movement (e.g., post-
glacial rebound).

c) Erosional and Depositional Landforms


Erosional Landforms
 Headlands and Bays: differential erosion of hard and soft rock.
 Cliffs and Wave-cut Platforms: erosion at the base causes cliff collapse,
leaving a flat platform.
 Caves → Arches → Stacks → Stumps:
o Caves form in headlands.

o Erosion breaks through, forming an arch.

o The arch collapses, leaving a stack.

o The stack erodes into a stump.

Depositional Landforms
 Beaches: formed by the deposition of sediment by constructive waves.
 Spits: long, narrow ridges of sand/shingle connected to land at one end,
formed by longshore drift.
 Bars: spit that grows across a bay, joining two headlands.

2.2 Distinctive ecosystems develop along particular stretches of


coastline
a) Distributions and Features of the World’s Coastal Ecosystems
 Coral Reefs:
o Found in tropical shallow seas (23.5° N/S of the equator).

o Require warm, clear, salty water.

o High biodiversity, vulnerable to bleaching.

 Mangroves:
o Found in tropical/intertidal zones.

o Salt-tolerant trees with aerial roots.

o Buffer coastlines from erosion and storms.

 Sand Dunes:
o Found behind beaches.

o Formed by wind-blown sand trapped by vegetation.

o Plant succession (e.g. marram grass stabilises dunes).

 Salt Marshes:
o Form in sheltered estuaries behind spits.

o Saline, waterlogged environments with halophytic plants.

o Important breeding grounds for birds.

b) Abiotic and Biotic Characteristics of One Named Coastal Ecosystem


Example: Keyhaven Salt Marsh (Hampshire, UK)
 Abiotic factors:
o Saline water, low oxygen soil, tidal inundation.

o Sheltered location with fine sediment deposition.

 Biotic factors:
o Plant species: glasswort, sea lavender.

o Animal species: wading birds, salt marsh beetles.

o Plant succession from mudflats → pioneer plants → higher marsh.

c) Threats to Coastal Ecosystems


 Small-scale threats:
o Local tourism leads to trampling, littering, and erosion.

o Small-scale farming/agriculture leads to runoff (pollution,


eutrophication).
 Large-scale threats:
o Industrialisation pollutes water and disrupts habitats.

o Agriculture: land drainage, fertiliser use damages ecosystems.

o Deforestation: especially for mangroves – loss of biodiversity and


natural protection.
o Tourism development: construction destroys habitats (e.g. coral
reefs dredged for hotels).
o Climate change: rising sea levels flood habitats; warmer oceans
bleach coral reefs.

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