Jakob

By: burdastyle
http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/jakob

At last, a mens shirt pattern! You’ve all been asking for menswear, and we’re so glad to finally have
something for you! The Jakob shirt is a classic button down sure to please! Make it in a traditional check or
striped fabric, or get a little crazy with prints and silks!

Materials
Cotton Shirting, Buttons, Interfacing I understand your enquiry and have an answer for you. The size range
of the Jakob shirt is Mens 48 - 58: When using 114 cm. wide fabric the shirt calls for 2,25 - 2.60 m. When
using 140 cm. wide fabric the shirt calls for 2,05 - 2,25 m. If you are making a sleeveless shirt: When using
114 cm. wide fabric the shirt calls for 1,85 - 2,15 m. When using 140 cm. wide fabric the shirt calls for 1,40 -
1,8 m.

Step 1

Jakob 1
A B 1 Front piece 2x
A B 2 Back piece 1x
A B 3 Yoke 2x
A 4 Sleeves 2x
A 5 Shirt cuff 2x
A 6 Slit facing 2x
A B 7 Collar 2x
A B 8 Collar stand 2x
A B 9 Pocket 1x
B 10 Straps for the armhole 2x

Fabrics: Poplin, linen blend fabric, cotton fabric

Step 2

The patterns can be printed out at the copy shop. If you decide to print them at home, follow the instructions:
Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints: The patterns are printed out on 28 sheets with a thin frame.
Wait, until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the sheets so that they fit together (see extra page with the
overview of the prints). Cut off the single sheets on the upper and right edge along the thin frame lines. Begin
with the left lower sheet and then glue the parts in the frame lines together precisely.

Step 3

Step 1 2
ADJUST PATTERN SIZES
Select your size according to the Burda-dimension table: Dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to the
bust size, trousers and skirts according to the hip width. If necessary, change the pattern to fit your
measurements if they deviate from the Burda-dimension table (a). Cut out the pattern according to your size.
Size 40 (EU 50) to size 48 (EU 58)
Refer to our â’ Adjust patterns for mixed sizesâ’ technique

The buttonholes of piece 1 are marked according to size 38 (EU 48). For the bigger sizes, mark the
buttonhole and stitch lines the same length as size 38 (EU 48). The highest and lowest buttonholes are the
same for all sizes, just space out the other buttons according to size between the top and bottom button.

Lengthen or shorten the pattern pieces If you usually wear an extra small size or tall size, you can adjust the
pattern pieces along the marked lines: â’ here you can lengthen or shortenâ’ according to your size. That
keeps the right fit. Always adjust all pattern pieces along the same line the same degree (b).

How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces: Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.
To lengthen, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far apart as necessary.
To shorten, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far as necessary. Even out the side edges ©.

Step 4

Step 3 3
CUTTING OUT FOLD (â’ â’ â’ â’ ) means: here is the center of a pattern piece but never a cut edge or
a seam. The piece should be cut double, with the fold line forming the centre line. Pattern pieces that are
outlined with a broken line in the cutting diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric. The cutting
diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric (a).

The cutting diagrams show the placement of the pattern on the fabric For a single layer of fabric, the pattern
pieces are pinned to the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides are facing and the pattern pieces
are pinned to the left side. The pattern pieces that are shown in the cutting diagram, extending over the fold
of the fabric, should be cut last from a single layer of fabric (b).

Step 5

SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included on an average: 5/8â’ (1.5 cm) for all edges and
stitches. Using BURDA copying paper, transfer the lines and signs of the pattern onto the wrong fabric side.
You will find instructions in the packaging. Interfacing Cut out the interfacing according to the drawing and
press it onto the wrong fabric side.

Sewing
While sewing the right fabric sides are facing. Transfer all lines of the pattern onto the right fabric side using
basting stitches.

Step 6

AB
Shirt
Front edges
Press the front pieces along the FOLD LINE. Then fold it inside along the FACING FOLD LINE, and press.
Stitch the front edges narrowly according to the drawing, thereby enclosing the facing. Apply BUTTON
HOLES to the left front piece (a).

Pocket
Trim the edges. Fold the facing inside, and press. Stitch the facing according to the drawing. Fold and pin the
allowances of the other pocket edges to the inside, and press (b). Pin the pocket onto the left front piece so
that it meets the marked line. Stitch narrowly. For B: Also stitch ¼⒠(0.7 cm) wide ©.

Step 4 4
Hemline
Fold the hemline of the front pieces and back pieces to the inside, and press. Fold again and pin, stitch the
hemline narrowly (d).

Step 7

Yoke (doubled)
Position and pin one yoke piece onto the back piece (seam 2), right sides facing. Pin the other yoke piece
(use the right side of the yoke) onto the wrong side of the back piece. Stitch (a).

Fold and press the yoke pieces over the seam, the wrong fabric sides facing. Along the inner yoke, fold and
press the allowances of the front edges inside (b).

Position and pin the exterior yoke pieces onto the front pieces (seam 1), right sides facing. Stitch. Press the
allowances inside the yoke ©.

Pin the inner yoke piece onto the front yoke seams. Pin the neckline edges of the yokes on top of each other.
From the right shirt side, stitch the yoke along the edges narrowly â’ for B also ¼⒠(0.7 cm) wide) â’
thereby enclosing the inner yoke piece (d).

Step 8

AB
Collar with stand
Position the collar pieces on top of each other, right sides facing. Pin the edges together, and stitch. Trim the
allowances, and cut the corners diagonally. Fold the collar right-side out. Pin the edges, press, stitch
narrowly: for B also stitch ¼⒠(0.7 cm) wide. Apply a BUTTONHOLE into the collar corners. For AB,
pin the open edges on top of each other (a).

Press the allowances of the stand edge to the inside (this stand is not interfaced), and pin it onto the
interfaced side of the collar. Pin the interfaced stand to the other side of the collar. Pin the stand pieces
together (seam 3), and stitch, enclosing the collar. Trim allowances, cut the corners diagonally. Fold the
stand right-side out. Pin the edges, press (b).

Pin the interfaced stand onto the neckline (seam 4), stitch. Trim allowances, snip and press inside the stand.
Pin the non-interfaced stand onto the seam line. Onto the right side, topstitch all stand edges narrowly,
thereby stitching the inner half of the seam line. Apply a BUTTONHOLE into the collar stand ©.

Step 6 5
Step 9

B
Armholes / bias strips
Fold the bias strips lengthwise, right-side out. Press. Trim the allowances to ½⒠(1 cm).

Pin the bias strips to the armhole, right sides facing; and raw edges together. Stitch the bias strips ½⒠(1
cm) from the edge. Trim allowances, snip. To stitch the side seams, fold and press the bias strips over the
seam (a).

Side seams
Position the front piece onto the back piece, right sides facing; pin the side seams (seam 6), and stitch;
thereby stitching over the bias strips on top and over the hemline on the bottom. Secure seam ends. Trim the
allowances and press apart. Fold the bias strips inside and pin, press (b). Topstitch the armholes narrowly,
¼⒠(0.7 cm) wide, thereby enclosing the bias strips ©. Sew all buttons by hand.

Step 10

A
Sleeves with cuff
Cut the bottom sleeve edge at the cutting sign. Pull the cut edges apart and pin them to the placket facing,
and stitch. Position and press the facing over the seam (a).

Fold the facing to the inside, fold again and pin onto the seam line, stitch. Fold the placket so the right fabric
sides are facing (b); cut the top of the placket facing according to the drawing ©.

Fold the facing to the inside of the placket. Press. Put pleat at the bottom sleeve edge in position according to
the arrow, pin (d).

Step 11

Step 8 6
Stitch the sleeves
Pin the sleeves onto the armhole, right sides facing. The cross lines 5 of sleeve and front piece meet. The
cross line of the sleeve cap meets the shoulder mark on the yoke. Pin the sleeves, and stitch. Trim
allowances, neaten and press into the shirt. Stitch the seam narrowly (a).

Sleeve and side seams

Pin half of the shirt cuff (cuff with interfacing) onto the bottom sleeve edge (seam 7), and stitch. Press the
allowances into the cuff. Press the allowances of the other long edge flat ©.

Fold the shirt cuffs along the fold line, the right fabric side inside. Stitch the short sides together. Trim the
allowances, and cut the corners diagonally. Turn cuff right-side out, fold and pin the shirt cuff along the fold
line, pin along the seam. Press, Topstitch all shirt cuff edges narrowly, on the right side of the shirt, thereby
stitching the inner half of the seam (d).
Make BUTTONHOLE. Sew all buttons.

Jakob

Step 11 7