DUCK

Bubba
Crochet Pattern designed by DudziToys
 Congratulations on your purchase of this
Duck pattern! A lot of effort and love was put
into this cute pattern! I hope you will enjoy
crocheting your own Duck.
Inna Devyaten`, DudziToys
This pattern is meant for people with crocheting skills as making magic ring, increases; invisible decreases, etc. It
also requires some basic sewing skills as sewing pieces together. If you do not have the required skills of crocheting
you might want to learn beforehand. You may find useful information for learning these skills online or on YouTube.

ABBREVIATIONS
mr = magic ring or magic loop invdec = invisible decrease: crochet 2 sc
ch = chain together for FLO
slst = slip stitch -flo = work stitch as indicated through front
sc = single crochet loop only, example: sc-flo, inc-flo
inc = increase: 2 sc in one stitch ( ) *Х = repeat instructions in brackets Х times
dc = double crochet […] = total number of stitches after the row
or round

MATERIALS

• Soft stuffing (cotton, wool, polyfill or similar), scissors, pins, tapestry needle
• Long needle and thin needle for a nose embroidery, strong threads for sewing paws.
• A piece 40 cm long - white yarn (for eyes embroidery) and black yarn for embroidery nose, eyebrows.
• Optional you can use oil pastel or dry pastel, acrylic paints for tinting. I did this with oil pastel.
YARN
You can use any Jeans Nord Alpaca Silk Cotton soft
different yarn YarnArt Drops Drops YarnArt
55% Cotton, 45% Alpaca, 30% 77% Alpaca, 55% Cotton,
45% Polyacryl Polyamide, 25% 23% Silk 45% Polyacryl
Wool
50 g / 1,76 oz 50 g / 1,76 oz 25 g / 0,9 oz 100 g / 3,52 oz
160 m /174 yds 170 m /186 yds 140 m /153 yds 600 m /656 yds
toy height ± 16 cm / 6,3 inch 12 cm / 4,7 inch 11 cm / 4 inch 10 cm / 3,9 inch
hook size (I use) 2,0 mm 1,75 mm 1,5 mm 1,25 mm
safety eyes 7 mm 7 mm 6 mm 5 mm
yellow yarn # 35 ± 5 gr # 18 ± 4 gr # 19 ± 4 gr # 35 ± 3 gr
green yarn # 52 ± 10 gr # 19 ± 10 gr # 11 ± 5 gr # 52 ± 5 gr
light brown yarn (or gray) # 71 ± 15 gr # 05 ± 15 gr # 05 ± 10 gr # 71 ± 10 gr
brown yarn # 70 ± 5 gr # 22 ± 4 gr # 03 ± 3 gr # 70 ± 2 gr
orange yarn # 85 ± 5 gr # 11 ± 4 gr # 06 ± 2 gr # 85 ± 2 gr
white yarn # 01 ± 5 gr # 01 ± 4 gr # 01 ± 2 gr # 01 ± 2 gr

For cotter pin joint ONLY:

cotter pin 1 pc 1 pc 1 pc 1 pc
small steel washer 2 pc 2 pc 2 pc 2 pc
disc 18 mm (2 pcs) 14 mm (2 pcs) 12 mm (2 pcs) 12 mm (2 pcs)
cotter pin tool or needle nose pliers

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2
 Notes
• All details are crocheted in spirals.
• Try to crochet tightly, because otherwise the fiberfill will be visible.
• Use a marker (piece of yarn in a contrasting color) to mark the beginning of each round. Do not
forget to move the marker up each time you start to crochet a new round.

The information that will be in this frame ONLY for using a cotter pin joint. If you sew the head to the
body, then skip this framed information.

a few lessons to help

lesson 1: pull off the hole to close
Using your yarn needle, weave in only on the FLO of the remaining single crochets. Tighten the hole.
Fasten of and weave in the yarn ends.

lesson 2: How to change yarn color

1. As you make the last stitch in the old Instead, tie the new yarn color to the old
colour, don`t pull the final loop through. one at the back of the work.

2. Wrap the new yarn color around your hook and pull through the two loops of the old color to finish the
stitch.

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3
BODY

start body with the light brown color yarn

1 6 sc in MR [6]
2 inc*6 [12]
3 (1 sc, inc)*6 [18]
4 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc [24]
5 (3 sc, inc)*6 [30]
6 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc [36]
7 (5 sc, inc)*6 [42]
8 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc [48]
9-16 48 sc (8 rounds) [48]
17 12 sc, invdec, (6 sc, invdec)*3, 10 sc [44]
18 8 sc, invdec, (5 sc, invdec)*4, 6 sc [39]
19 (4 sc, invdec, 11 sc, invdec)*2, 1 sc [35]
20 10 sc, invdec, 13 sc, invdec, 8 sc [33]
21 33 sc [33]
22 11 sc, invdec, (4 sc, invdec)*2, 8 sc [30]
23 6 sc, invdec, 18 sc, invdec, 2 sc [28]
24 28 sc [28]
25 12 sc, invdec, 4 sc, invdec, 8 sc [26]
Change yarn to the white color
26 (invdec, 11 sc)*2 [24]
27 (4 sc, invdec)*4 [20]
28 20 sc [20]
! 5 sc, slst. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for
sewing. Fasten off. Stuff the body firmly.

ONLY for using a cotter pin joint

BODY with cotter pin joint

After 28th row crochet: 5 sc. Don't cut the yarn. Stuff the body firmly.
Take a cotter pin, put on the small steel washer, then the disc. Place the joint inside the body and continue
to crochet the body around the cotter pin: invdec*10, slst. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, pull off the
hole to close (lesson 1).

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4
HEAD

start from the duck bill with the yellow color yarn
1 8 ch, start in the second chain from the hook: inc, 5 sc, 4 sc into one chain, rotate and
continue into remaining loops on the opposite side of chain: 5 sc, inc [18]

Crochet chart for better overview of 1st round:

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

9 8
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
10

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

2 inc*2, 5 sc, inc*4, 5 sc, inc*2 [26]

3-5 26 sc (3 rounds) [26]
6 6 sc, change yarn to the green color (lesson 2), 10 sc, inc*7, 3 sc [33]
7 6 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 3 sc, (inc, sc)*6, 2 sc, inc [42]
8 (7 sc, inc)*3, (4 sc, inc)*2, 8 sc [47]
9 inc, 20 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 3 sc [52]
10 29 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 11 sc [54]
11 33 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 15 sc [56]

ONLY for using a cotter pin joint (don't crochet this round, and crochet this)
11 9 sc, place a marker (point for inserting the body's cotter
pin joint), 24 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 15 sc [56]

Insert safety eyes in 6th round after stitches of the 1st inc and befor stitches of the 7th inc. (Extend the hole
with a hook.)

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 12 13 sc, place a marker (starting point of
sewing head to the body), 43 sc [56]

ONLY for using a cotter pin joint (don't crochet this round, and crochet this)
12 56 sc [56]

13-19 56 sc (7 rounds) [56]

ONLY for using a cotter pin joint

Insert the body's cotter pin joint into the markering point for this of the head. On the inside place the disc then
the washer onto the cotter pin. Using a cotter pin tool or needle nose pliers, roll down 1 leg of the cotter pin. The
tighter you roll, the tighter the joint. If you want wobbly joints, leave it loose. Roll down the other leg.

Continue crocheting the head.

20 6 sc, invdec, (12 sc, invdec)*3, 6 sc [52]

21 (11 sc, invdec)*4 [48]
22 5 sc, invdec, (10 sc, invdec)*3, 5 sc [44]
23 (9 sc, invdec)*4 [40]
24 4 sc, invdec, (8 sc, invdec)*3, 4 sc [36]
25 2 sc, invdec, (4 sc, invdec)*5, 2 sc [30]
26 (3 sc, invdec)*6 [24] - stuff the head firmly, but try not to stuff firmly duck bill
27 1 sc, invdec, (2 sc, invdec)*5, 1 sc [18]
28 (1 sc, invdec)*6 [12] - stuff
! Invdec*3, slst. Stuff the head firmly, but try not to stuff firmly duck bill. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail, pull off the hole to close (lesson 1).
ONLY for using a cotter pin joint: don't pulling off the hole to close just now. We will do this later.

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6
MUZZLE SCULPTING USING A NEEDLE
!There are some pairs of points: 1 and 2, 3 and 4, 5 and 6. And one start/finish point - 0. (point 0 is
needed to hide yarn tails here)
points: 0 and 1-2 points: 3-4, 5-6 point 0 (ONLY for cotter pin joint)

1 2

0 45
3 6 0

With cotter pin joint, do the same as

described below, just remember that
your point 0 is in a different place.

Take the yarn of the yellow color about 45 cm and a needle. Insert the needle into the point 0 (we will
sew the head to the body there, so our knots will not be visible) and exit the needle through point 1 (photo
1). Leave a small yarn tail (about 10 cm long).

1 2

tail

Point 2 (entry point) - 3 (exit point), 4 - 1, 2 - 3, 4 - 1, pull the yarn and tighten the left side of the muzzle,
2 - 5, 6 - 2, 1 - 5, 6 - 2, pull the yarn and tighten the right side of the muzzle, point 1 - 0. Check if the sides
are even and then tie threads with a knot.

5
4 6
3

1 2

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Weave in yarn ends, cut yarn tails.

EYEBROWS, EYE WHITES

th th
Mark eyebrows between 9 and 10 rows. Eyebrows are 2 stitches long. The distance between eyebrows -
8 stitches. Focus on increases in the 10th row. Embroidery the eyebrows.

1 2 3

4 5 6

7 8

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Fasten off, hide ends inside of the head and cut the yarn and.

If you wish, before embroidering whites of the eyes, tint around eyes using oil pastel or dry pastel, acrylic
colors for textile. I did this with oil pastel. Also if you wish, you can tint pink blush. And then using white
yarn, embroider whites of the eyes.

ONLY for using a cotter pin joint: This would be a good time to pull off the hole onto the head to close
(lesson 1). Don't forget stuffed firmly the head to the end before pull off the hole to close.

If you wish, you can embroider nostrils (with black yarn) onto the duck bill with FRENCH KNOT.

How to make a french knot

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9
 Sew the body to the head
You need to sew as in photo 2-3. (Straight *2, Diagonally *2, Straight *4, Diagonally *2, Straight *2,
Diagonally *2, Straight *4, Diagonally *2.) - photo 1.

1 2 3

When a small hole left,

add a bit more stuffing
before closing the
same.

LEGS (2 pcs)

1st part - foot orange color

1 6 sc in MR [6]
2 (1 sc, inc)*3 [9]
3 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*2, 1 sc [12]
4 3 sc, make 5 ch and skip 5 sts, 4 sc [12]

5 3 sc, (1 sc into 1 ch)*5, 4 sc [12]

6 (3 sc, inc)*3 [15]
7 15 sc [15]
8 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*2, 2 sc [18]
9 18 sc [18] - don`t stuff just now. We will do this later.

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! 5 sc. Flatten the top of the foot and crochet through both sides: 3 sc, (2 dc into 1 stitch)*2, 3 sc. Cut
the yarn, fasten off, weave in the yarn end.

2nd part - shank

Take the orange color yarn and add it to the 3rd free stitch of the foot.

1 2 slst, continue into loops on the opposite side of chains: 5 slst, continue into free loops of
the foot: 3 slst. [10]

2 10 sc-flo [10] ! If the hook is hard to insert, then

3-5 10 sc (3 rounds) [10] - stuff foot and shank expand front loops with a needle

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11
 1st variation 2nd variation
continue with the orange color yarn change yarn to the light brown color (lesson 2)
6 (1 sc, inc)*5 [15]
6-12 10 sc (7 rounds) [10] - stuff 7-11 15 sc (5 rounds) [15] - stuff
12 (3 sc, invdec)*3 [12]

! Invdec, slst. Stuff legs firmly. ! Invdec*3, slst. Stuff legs firmly.

Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, pull off the hole to close (lesson 1).

WINGS (2 pcs) brown color

1 6 sc in MR [6]
2 (1 sc, inc)*3 [9]
3 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*2, 1 sc [12]
4 (3 sc, inc)*3 [15]
5 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*2, 2 sc [18]
6 (5 sc, inc)*3 [21]
7-8 21 sc (2 rounds) [21]
9 (5 sc, invdec)*3 [18]
10 18 sc [18]
11 2 sc, invdec, (4 sc, invdec)*2, 2 sc [15]
12 15 sc [15]
13 (3 sc, invdec)*3 [12]
14-15 12 sc (2 rounds) [12]
16 1 sc, invdec, (2 sc, invdec)*2, 1 sc [9]
! Slst. Don't stuff wings. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, pull off the hole to close (lesson 1).

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12
ASSEMBLY

Mark places for fastening the limbs using pins. Count 3 rounds down
th th
from the head for the arms. Sew legs center between rounds 8 -9 of
the body. The arms and legs should be placed symmetrically. Move
the pins back and forth until you like the result. Fasten the limbs with a
strong thread as shown in the diagram (thread mount. You can also
use button mount, I sewed without buttons)

3-4

TAIL light brown color

1 6 sc in MR [6]
2 (1 sc, inc)*3 [9]
3 9 sc [9]
4 (2 sc, inc)*3 [12]

! Don`t stuff. Flatten the tail and crochet 5 sc through both sides. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for
sewing. Fasten off.

Sew tail to the body

Mark tail on the body with tailor pins in the center between 7th and 8th rounds, as shown in the photo
below. Sew the tail neatly with 5 stitches. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.

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13
HEADBAND

90 ch, start in the second chain from the hook:

slst, sc, hdc, 3dc, hdc, sc, 73 slst, sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc, slst. Rotate and continue into remaining loops
on the opposite side of chain: slst, sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc, 73 slst, sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc, slst.
Cut the yarn, fasten off and hide all yarn ends.
Tie it around the head making a knot and placing the ribbon bow on the top of the head in a nice position
so that it looks pretty.

CROCHET DRESS
MATERIALS

• 2.5 mm hook (when the bear is crocheted with a 2 mm crochet hook)

• Buttons, 2 pieces for the overall (I took size 9-10 mm)
• Yarn (I used Jeans YarnArt (100g / 320 m) +/- 25 gr
To replace Cotton Gold Alize you may use YarnArt Jeans, Catania SMC or yarn of your choice.

Important points
1. Make 2 chain stitches to bring the yarn up to the correct height for the next row. This ch-2 is called
the turning chain.
Remember: The turning chain doesn't count as a stitch
2. ! So, Don't skip the first stitch starting from 2nd row (the one that’s directly below the turning
chain). (so we will have an edge without extra holes.) Be sure to insert the hook under both top loops
of the stitch.

START

WORKING FLAT

36 ch, start in the 3rd chain from the hook.

1 34 hdc [34]

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14
 2 turning ch-2, 5 hdc, 3 hdc into 1 stitch, 6 hdc, 3 hdc into 1 stitch, 8 hdc, 3 hdc into 1 stitch, 6 hdc, 3
hdc into 1 stitch, 3 hdc, 1 ch, skip 1 stitch, 1 hdc [42]

3 turning ch-2, 1 hdc, 1 hdc into 1 ch, 4 hdc, 3 hdc into 1 stitch, 8 hdc, 3 hdc into 1 stitch, 10 hdc, 3 hdc
into 1 stitch, 8 hdc, 3 hdc into 1 stitch, 6 hdc [50]
4 turning ch-2, 7 hdc, 3 hdc into 1stitch, 10 hdc, 3 hdc into 1stitch, 12 hdc, 3 hdc into 1 stitch, 10 hdc, 3
hdc into 1 stitch, 7 hdc [58]
5 turning ch-2, 1 hdc, 1 ch, skip 1 stitch, 7 hdc, make 2 ch and skip 12 stitches, 16 hdc, make 2 ch
and skip 12 stitches, 9 hdc [38]

6 turning ch-2, 3 hdc, 6 hdcinc, (1 hdc into 1 ch)*2, 16 hdcinc, (1 hdc into 1 ch)*2, 6 hdcinc, 1 hdc,
1 hdc into 1 ch, 1 hdc [66]
8-16 turning ch-2, 66 hdc (9 rows) [66] Crochet rows to the desired length. I crochet 9 rows.

Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in all yarn ends. Sew buttons.

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15
 KNITTED DRESS

ABBREVIATIONS I use knitting needles 2,25 mm (or 1,25 mm for little duck)
ss = slip the first stitch (selvage (selvedge) stitch)
st(s) = stitch(es)
K = knit
P = purl
rs = right side
ws = wrong side
M1 = Untwisted M1: Make 1 increase that does not twist the stitch leaving a decorative hole
K2tog = knit 2 sts together
K1-tbl = Twisted Knit Stitch: with yarn in back, insert the right knitting needle through the back loop
of the next stitch on the left needle, then complete as a knit stitch.
YO = yarnover: wrap the yarn around the right needle from front to back.
M1T = make one towards (make a loop with the workingyarn so the tail is pointing
forwards/towards you)

a few lessons to help

lesson 1: Untwisted M1 (M1)

Make 1 increase that does not twist the stitch leaving a decorative hole. Insert your right needle in the bar
between the two stitches, moving from the front to the back of the knitting (photo 2). Grab the yarn from
above. Pull the yarn (photo 3).

1 2 3

lesson 2: Twisted Knit Stitch (K1-tbl)

With yarn in back, insert the right knitting needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the left needle,
then complete as a knit stitch.

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16
 Gauge: 14 sts x 20 rs = 5 x 5 cm / 2 x 2 inches in st st
important points
• the first stitch of every row we will start with Edge stitch;
• every last loop of the row we will purl;
• In the places where we did K1-tbl (Twisted Knit Stitch) we will sew buttons on;
The dress are worked from the top-down of the yoke with back and forth rows by reglan construction, then
close the loops of the sleeves. Continue to work with increases for the body.

START
Cast on 33 loops in any convenient way. I make chain with a hook (This does not stretch the neckline) -
33ch. Change a hook to knitting needles. Pick up 32sts, start in the second chain from the needle (insert
the needle into the loop, grab the yarn and pull it (so makes the loop). Total on the needles 33 sts.

WORKING FLAT
Rows
1 (ws) ss, P to end of row [33]
2 (rs) ss, K1, K1-tbl, K3, M1,K1,M1, K6, M1,K1,M1, K6, M1,K1,M1, K6, M1,K1,M1, K1, K2tog, YO,
K1, P [41]

3 (ws) ss, P to end of row [41]

4 (rs) ss, K6, M1,K1,M1, K8, M1,K1,M1, K8, M1,K1,M1, K8, M1,K1,M1, K5, P [49]
5 (ws) ss, P to end of row [49]
6 (rs) ss, K7, M1,K1,M1, K10, M1,K1,M1, K10, M1,K1,M1, K10, M1,K1,M1, K6, P [57]
7 (ws) ss, P to end of row [57]
8 (rs) ss, K1, K1-tbl, K6, M1,K1,M1, K12, M1,K1,M1, K12, M1,K1,M1, K12, M1,K1,M1, K4, K2tog,
YO, K1, P [65]

9 (ws) ss, P to end of row [65]

BIND OFF SLEEVE STITCHES

10 (rs)! ss, K9, M1, K1, bind off 14 sts, M1, K14, M1,K1, bind off 14 sts, M1, K8, P [41]

11 (ws)! knit garter stitch: ss, K39, P [41]

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17
WORK INCREASE ROWS
How to make M1T
1. Make a ring as it is shown in the photo. 2. Take the needle into the ring in front:
Notice how the yarn lies perpendicular in front:

12 (rs) ss, (K2, M1T)*repeat 18 times, K3, P [59]

13 (ws) ss, P to end of row [77]
14 (rs) ss, (K3, M1T)*repeat 18 times, K3, P [77]
15 (ws) ss, P to end of row [77] repeat rows to the desired length. I
16 (rs) ss, K75, P [77] repeat rows 8 more times.

! Knit garter stitch the last 2 rows :

33 (ws) ss, K27, P [77]
34 (rs) ss, K27, P [77]

Bind off all stitches knitwise on the ws. I did it with a hook. Slip 2 stitches on the hook, yarn over and pull
through both loops on the hook. *One loop on the hook. Slip one more loop on the hook. two loops
on the hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.* Repeat *...* to end of row. Fasten
off, cut the yarn.

Weave in all yarn ends. Sew buttons in places of the K1-tbl

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18
 How to Duplicate Stitch (embroidery on knitting)

Tip: Using the same weight yarn ensures that the stitches look more like they were part of the original
project, but you can use different weights for more contrast.

Thread a length of yarn through a tapestry needle, like you would when weaving in ends. On the back of
your work, near where you want to add your stitches, weave through the back of several stitches to secure
the end of the yarn.

Begin a Duplicate Stitch Finish a Duplicate Stitch

Notice that stockinette is a series of little Vs. Go back down at the bottom in the same space
Depending on how you look at it, it may look like where the needle came up. Try to keep the tension
upside-down Vs, but it's best to look for the upright on the yarn snug so the stitch isn't too loose, but not
ones for this. Come up through the knitting at the so tight that it pulls at the existing knitting. The stitch
bottom of the first V stitch you want to work your should cover the stitch underneath. If you need to
duplicate stitch over. Slide your needle behind the V adjust the placement, now's the time to do that. This
that's right above the stitch you're covering. can happen if the needle goes through just a little
above or below where it should or if the new yarn
overlaps itself in an odd way.

You can work rows of duplicate stitch in any direction. When working from right to left, insert the needle
from right to left. When starting the next work going left to right, insert the needle left to right. For some
designs, it may work out better to work from top to bottom or even diagonally. Whatever path you follow,
be sure to keep the yarn tension even. If you need to skip over an area that's larger than two stitches,
weave the yarn through the back of a stitch or two so it doesn't snag or pull on the back.

When you finish your stitching, secure the end of the yarn on the back just like weaving in the ends as
usual.

On a crocheted dress, the letter can be embroidered with a cross stitch.

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19
 alphabet

CONGRATULATIONS!

You have finished and now have your own handmade Duck.
How will you name it?

Thank You for purchasing this pattern!

I will be happy, if you leave a review on Etsy! :)

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