The Neuroicu Board Review

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.
 C HAPTER IV.

Then long may here the ale-charged Tankards shine,

Long may the Hop plant triumph o’er the Vine.
Brasenose College Shrovetide Poem.

The Hop for his profit I thus do exalt.

It strengtheneth drink, and it favoureth Malt;
And being well brewed, long kept it will last,
And drawing abide—if ye draw not too fast.
Thomas Tusser.

U S E A N D I M P O R TA N C E O F H O P S I N B E E R : T H E I R I N T R O ­D U C ­T I O N A N D
H I S ­T O R Y. — H O P - G R O W ­E R S ’ T R O U ­B L E S . — M E D ­I C ­I N A L QUALITIES. —
E C O ­N O M ­I ­C A L U S E S . — H O P - P I C K ­E R S .

HE hops used in beer-brewing are the female

flowers of the hop plant known to botanists as
the Humulus lupulus of Linnæus. At first sight it
may seem strange that hops and wolves should
have anything in common, but it has been
explained that the word lupulus comes from the
name by which the Romans called the hop plant
—Lupus Salictarius —the idea being that the hop
was as destructive among the willows (where it grew) as a wolf
among sheep. Though hops are now staple articles of a large
commerce, and largely cultivated in England, America, Belgium,
France, and our colonies, some few hundred years ago their valuable
qualities were little known in this country.
How, when, and where the flowers of the hop plant were first
used to give to beer its delicious flavour and keeping qualities, is not
{66} accurately known. Pliny, in his Natural History , states that the

Germans preserved ale with hops, and there is a Rabbinical tradition,

referring to still earlier times, to the effect that the Jews, during their
captivity in Babylon, found the use of hopped ale a protection
against their old enemy, leprosy. In a letter of donations, the great
King Pepin uses the word “Humuloria,” meaning hop gardens.
Mesne, an Arabian physician, who wrote about the year 845, also
mentions hops; and Basil Valentine, an alchemist of the 14th
century, specifically refers to the use of the hop in beer. Dr.
Thudichum, in his pamphlet, Alcoholic Drinks , tells us that in early
days of beer production wild hops only were used, as is the practice
at the present day in Styria, but that in some foreign countries the
plant has been largely cultivated for nearly a thousand years. It is a
well-known fact that in the eighth and ninth centuries, hop gardens,
called Humuloria or Humuleta, existed in France and Germany.
That the hop was known to the English before the Conquest in
some form or other, is proved by the reference to the hymele, or hop
plant, in the Anglo-Saxon version of the Herbarium , of Apuleius.
Although no trace of the word hymele now remains in our every-day
language, it is found in Danish as “humle,” and is only the English
form of the Latin humulus . The Herbarium just mentioned contains
a remarkable passage with reference to “hymele.” “This wort,” it
says, “is to that degree laudable that men mix it with their usual
drinks.” The usual drinks of the English were undoubtedly malt
liquors, and this passage would go far to show that even in Saxon
times the hop was used in English brewing. Cockayne, the learned
editor of Saxon Leechdoms , is inclined to this opinion, and he
instances in confirmation of it that special mention is made of the
hedge-hymele, as though there existed at that time a cultivated hop
from which it had to be distinguished; he also cites the name Hymel-
tun, in Worcestershire (now Himbleton), which he states is
mentioned in Anglo-Saxon deeds, and which could hardly have
signified anything less than hop yard. The word hopu (i.e. , hops)
also occurs in Saxon documents. Ewe-hymele is mentioned in Saxon
Leechdoms , and would probably signify the female hop. In the year
822 there is a record that the millers of Corbay were freed by the
abbot from all labours relating to hops, and a few years later hops
are mentioned by Ludovicus Germanicus.
 The introduction of hops into England has been generally assigned
to the early part of the sixteenth century. The old but unreliable
distich, {67}

Hops, Reformation, bays and beer

Came into England all in one year,35
points to a period subsequent to 1520 as the time when the great
improvement of adding hops to malt liquors was first practised in
this country. This rhyme probably refers to the settling of certain
Flemings in Kent, to be mentioned anon, which no doubt gave a
great impulse to the use of hops; it cannot well refer to their first
introduction, as they were known in England for many years
previously and were used in beer-brewing nearly a century before
the Reformation.

35 Two other versions are to be found:

“Hops and turkeys, carp and beer
Came into England all in one year;”

and
“Turkeys, carps, hops, pickerel, and beer
Came into England all in one year.”
The couplets also err as to pickerel, which are mentioned in mediæval
glossaries at a date long before the Reformation.

In that curious old work the Promptorium Parvulorum (1440),

which is, in fact, an old English-Latin dictionary, occur some
passages which, when taken in conjunction with the London Records
of a slightly later date, seem to show that the introduction of hops
into English brewing (excepting their possible use in Saxon times)
should be assigned to a period a little before the middle of the
fifteenth century.
The word “hoppe” is defined as “sede for beyre. Humulus
secundum extraneos.” “Bere” is defined as “a drynke. Humulina, vel
humuli potus, aut cervisia hummulina.” The inference to be drawn
from these passages is that hops and beer, in the sense of hopped
ale, were known in England some time previous to the year 1440.
The compiler, however, shows by his definition of “bere” as a
“drynke,” that the word required some explanation, for when he
mentions “ale,” he simply gives the Latin equivalent, “cervisia.” He
certainly regarded beer as an interloper, as shown by his note on
ale, “Et nota bene quod est potus Anglorum .” Four years after the
date of the publication of the Promptorium, William Lounde and
Richard Veysey were appointed inspectors or surveyors of the “bere-
bruers” of the City of London, as distinguished from the ale-brewers
who were at this time a company governed by a master and
wardens. Ten years later an {68} ordinance for the government of the
beer-brewers was sanctioned by the Lord Mayor. From this date the
City Records contain frequent mention of the beer-brewers as
distinct from the ale-brewers. However, beer, “the son of ale,” as an
old writer calls it, did not rapidly attain popularity. Ten years after
the date last referred to, the beer-brewers petitioned the Lord Mayor
and “Worshipfull soveraignes the Aldermen” of the City of London, in
these terms:—“To the full honourable Lord the Maire, etc. Shewen
mekely unto youre good Lordshipp and maistershippes, the goode
folke of this famous citee the which usen Bere-bruyng within the
same, that where all mistiers and craftys of the sd citee have rules
and ordenances by youre grete auctoritees for the common wele of
this honourable citee made, and profite of the same craftys,” but the
petitioners have none such rules, and therefore the citizens are liable
to be imposed upon “in measure of barell, kilderkyns and firkyns,
and in hoppes and other greynes the which to the said mistiere
apperteynen. . . . It is surmysed upon them that often tymes they
make their bere of unseasonable malt the which is of little prise and
unholsome for mannes body for their singular availe, forasmuch as
the comon peple for lacke of experience cannot know the perfitnesse
of bere as wele as of the ale ,” the petitioners pray that certain
regulations of the trade may be established by authority. Passing
over another period of twenty years, during which the City Records
contain nothing to show whether hops and beer advanced or
declined in popularity, we find that in the first year of Richard III. a
petition was presented to Lord Mayor Billesdon, by the Brewers’
Company, showing “that whereas by the sotill and crafty means of
foreyns36 dwelling withoute the franchises . . . . . a deceivable and
unholsome fete in bruyng of ale within the said citee nowe of late is
founde and practised, that is to say, in occupying and puttyng of
hoppes and other things in the said ale, contrary to the good and
holesome manner of bruynge of ale of old tyme used, . . . to the
great deceite and hurt of the King’s liege people. . . . Pleas it
therefore your saide good lordshyppe to forbid the putting into ale of
any hops, herbs, or any other like thing, but onely licour, malte and
yeste.” The petition is granted and a penalty of 6s. 8d. is laid on
every barrel of ale so brewed contrary to the ancient use. This early
use of the technical {69} term “licour,” or liquor, instead of water is
noteworthy. We learn by a note in the Letter-book that the fine on
putting hops into ale was shortly afterwards reduced to 3s. 4d. the
barrel, while any other kind of adulteration is still to subject the
offender to the full fine of 6s. 8d. It will have been observed that it
is not the making of beer which is forbidden, but the putting of hops
into ale , and selling the drink as ale. There is abundant evidence to
show that beer continued to be made and sold with the sanction of
the authorities, and that the beer-brewers, many of whom at this
time were Dutchmen, practised a separate craft from that of the ale-
brewers. Two years after the date of the last petition a regulation
was made that no beer-brewer is to be “affered” (fined) more than
6s. 8d., nor an ale-brewer more than two shillings, for breaking the
assize. The oath of the ale-searchers contains the following passage:
—“Ye shall swear . . . to search and assay . . . that the ale be
holsom, weell soden and able for mannes body, and made with none
other stuff but only with holsom and clere ale-yest, watyr and malt,
and such as you find unholsom for mannes body or brewed with any
other thing except with watyr and malt, be it with rosen, hoppes ,
bere-yest , or any other craft, . . .” you shall duly report for
punishment. In the same year it is recorded that the beer-brewers
were ordered to use “gode clene, sweete, holsom greyne and
hoppes ,” and the rulers of the beer-brewers are to have powers of
inspection of hops and other grains.

36 A “foreyn” was one who was not a freeman of the City—no reference to
nationality.

Prosecutions for the use of hops were frequent, but they were for
putting hops into ale , and not for brewing beer. In the twelfth year
of Henry VII., John Barowe was presented by the wardens of the
brewers because he brewed ale with beer-yeast , “quod est corpori
humano insalubre .” Nine years later Robert Dodworth, brewer’s
servant, confessed that he had brewed “a burthen of ale in the
house of his master in Fleet Street with hops, contrary to the laws
and laudable acts and customs of the city.” In the tenth year of
Henry VIII., William Shepherd, brewer’s servant to Philip Cooper,
“occupying the feat of bruing,” made a deposition that he had “once
since Michaelmas last brewed ale with hops, but that his master
knew not of it,” but that he had heard that other servants had
brewed with hops, “and that was the cause why he brewed with
hoppes, and more he would not say.” Philip Cooper, however, was
evidently suspected, for in the same records we find that he was
compelled to bring into the Court “a standing cup with a cover of
gylt with three red hearts in the bottom of the cup to stand to the
order of the Court touching the brewing with hoppes.” On {70}
payment of a fine of five shillings, his gage is ordered to be returned
to him. Many other passages could be quoted from the City Records
in support of the view that beer-brewing was not forbidden, but only
the adulteration, as it was considered, of the old English ale with an
admixture of hops. We have dwelt somewhat fully upon this part of
the subject, as there appears to be an almost universal
misconception as to the date of the introduction of hops into
England, and as to their use having been for some time altogether
prohibited by the law of the land. The only authority for this last
mentioned idea, seems to be the statement of Fuller, in his Worthies
of England , that hops were forbidden as the result of a petition
which was presented in the time of Henry VI. against “the wicked
weed called hops.” No statute to this effect is in existence, no record
is to be found in the rolls of Parliament of any such petition, and the
statement is in opposition to the evidence we have been able to
collect on the subject.
About the year 1524 a large number of Flemish immigrants settled
in Kent, cultivated hops and brewed beer, and soon caused that
county to become famous for its hop gardens and the excellence of
their produce. To these strangers is perhaps due the chief credit of
having enlightened the British mind on the subject of bitter beer, and
their advent is probably the event pointed to in the old couplet
already quoted.
Among the numerous officials appointed to enforce the regulations
of the City, were persons called hop-searchers, whose duty it was to
search for defective hops, which, when found were burnt.
Wriothesley’s Chronicle mentions that “on the 10th daie of
September, 1551, was burned in Finsburie Field XXXI sacke and
pokettes of hopps in the afternoune, being nought, and not holsome
for man’s bodie, and condemned by an Act made by my Lord Maior
and his bretheren the aldermen the 10th daie of September, at
which court six comeners of the Cittie of London were apoynted to
be serchers for a hole yeare for the said hopps; and they were
sworne the fifth daie of this moneth and made search ymediatlie for
the same.”
The popular taste is not a thing to be changed in a day, and at
that happy period of history when railways, penny posts,
newspapers, stump orators and other nineteenth-century methods
of enlightenment were unknown and undreamt of, it may well be
understood that the knowledge of this great improvement spread
but slowly. Not only were the English slow to appreciate what the
Flemings had done for them, but they believed that they were like to
be poisoned by the new-fangled drink which was not in their eyes to
be compared to the sweet and {71} thick, but honest and
unsophisticated English ale. The writers of the day are loud in their
abuse of beer. In the passages from Andrew Boorde’s Dyetary
(1542), quoted in Chapter I. (p. 6), ale is described as being the
natural drink of Englishmen, and made of malt and water, while beer,
which is composed of malt, hops, and water, is the natural drink of a
Dutchman, and of late is much used in England, to the great
detriment of many Englishmen. There is a truly insular ring about
this. We should like to enlighten old Andrew’s darkness by a draught
of sparkling Burton. Boorde undoubtedly expresses the popular
opinion of the period, for from Rastall’s Book of Entries we learn that
an ale-man brought his action against his Brewer for spoiling his ale,
by putting in it a certain weed called a hopp , and recovered
damages. Even Harry the Eighth, who of all our kings was the
greatest lover of good things—and a few bad ones—was blind to the
merits of the hop, and enjoined the Royal brewer of Eltham that he
put neither hops nor brimstone into the ale. Possibly sulphuring, of
which a word or two anon, was then in use; we cannot otherwise
account for the mention of brimstone. This was in 1530, only six
years after the Flemings had settled in Kent.
Abused by medical writers as drink only fit for Dutchmen, objected
to by the king, and disliked by the majority of the people, the song-
writers of the day, of course, had a good deal to say against the new
drink. In the High and Mightie Commendation of the Virtue of a Pot
of Good Ale , it is hardly surprising to find the following lines:―
And in very deed, the hops but a weed
Brought over ’gainst law, and here set to sale,
Would the law were removed, and no more Beer brewed,
But all good men betake them to a pot of good ale.

But to speak of killing, that am I not willing,

For that in a manner were but to rail,
But Beer hath its name ’cause it brings to the Bier,
Therefore well fare, say I, to a pot of good ale.
Too many, I wis, with their deaths proved this,
And therefore (if ancient records do not fail)
He that first brewed the hop, was rewarded with a rope,
And found his Beer far more bitter than Ale.
{72}

The ale-wives and brewers, however, were wiser than their

customers, and, induced also by the fact that their hopped ale went
not sour as of yore, stuck to their colours—nailed to a hop pole no
doubt—and slowly but surely educated the taste of the people. It
was, however, a long process.
Henry, in his History of England , vol. 6, referring to the Scottish
diet about the end of the sixteenth century, writes:―
“Ale and gascony wines were the principal liquors; but mead,
cyder, and perry were not uncommon. Hops were still scarce, and
seldom employed in Ale , which was brewed therefore in small
quantities, to be drunk while new. At the King’s table Ale was
prohibited as unfit for use till five days old .”
From a whimsical old book, entitled Wine, Beer, Ale, and Tobacco,
a dialogue , in which the two leading malt liquors of the day (1630)
converse, and give their own views on the subject, it appears that
even as late as the seventeenth century beer was little known in
country districts, though popular in London.
Beer is introduced making a pun on his own name; he says to
Wine, “Beere leave, sir.” The chief points in Ale’s argument, which is
better than that of any of the others, are contained in the following
passage:—“You, Wine and Beer, are fain to take up a corner
anywhere—your ambition goes no farther than a cellar; the whole
house where I am goes by my name, and is called Ale-house. Who
ever heard of a Wine-house, or a Beer-house? My name, too, is, of a
stately etymology—you must bring forth your latin. Ale, so please
you, from alo, which signifieth nourish—I am the choicest and most
luscious of potations.” Wine, Beer, and Ale at last compose their
differences, each having a certain dominion assigned to him, and
join in singing these lines:―
Wine.—I, generous Wine am for the court.
Beer.—The citie call for Beere.
Ale.—But Ale, bonnie Ale, like a lord of the soile.
In the country shall domineere.
 Chorus.—Then let us be merry, wash sorry away,
Wine, Beer and Ale shall be drunk this day.
In the end Tobacco appears—He arrogates an equality with Wine
—“You and I both come out of a pipe.” The reply is, “Prithee go
smoke elsewhere.” “Don’t incense me, don’t inflame Tobacco,” he
retorts; but is told, “No one fears your puffing—turn over a new
leaf , Tobacco, most high and mighty Trinidado.” {73}
In an old play printed a few years later (1659) it is indicated that
ale was still generally made without hops:―

Ale is immortal:
And, be there no stops
In bonny lads quaffing,
Can live without hops.
If Defoe’s statement on the subject, in his Tour Through Great
Britain , is correct, it must, indeed, have been many years before the
use of hops made any headway in the northern portions of the
kingdom. “As to the North of England,” he writes, “they formerly
used but few Hops there, their Drink being chiefly pale smooth ale,
which required no hops; and consequently they planted no hops in
all that part of England North of Trent. . . . But as for some years
past, they not only brew great quantities of Beer in the North, but
also use hops in the brewing of their ale, much more than they did
before, so they all come south of Trent to buy their hops.”
In the reign of Edward VI., by the Statute 5 and 6 Ed. VI. c. 5
(repealed 5 Eliz. c. 2), it was enacted that all land formerly in tillage
should again be cultivated, excepting “land set with saffron or hops.”
This is, we believe, the first mention of hops in the Statute book.
The next Act on the subject was one passed in 1603, by which
regulations were made for the curing of hops, which process had
thenceforward to be carried out under the inspection of the officers
of excise. From a petition presented by the Brewers’ Company to
Lord Burleigh, a few years previously (1591), we learn that the price
of hops was then £3 16s. 8d. to £4 10s. 6d. per cwt., instead of 6s.
8d. as formerly, and was, the Brewers said, in quality well worth
three hundredweight of those sold at that time. Hops were evidently
coming into favour. We gather from an old receipt that about the
end of the century, Beer was made with “40 lbs. of hoppeys to 40
qrs. of grain.”
 About the earliest English work on the culture of hops is an old
black-letter pamphlet published in 1574 “at the Signe of the Starre,
in Paternoster Rowe.” It is entitled, “A Perfite Platforme of a Hoppe
Garden , and necessarie instructions for the making and
mayntenance thereof, with notes and rules for reformation of all
abuses, commonly practised therein, very necessary and expedient
for all men to have, which in any wise have to doe with hops.” The
author was one Reynolde Scot, and the little volume is adorned with
quaint illustrations, and tastefully designed initial letters. The work is
dedicated to {75} “Willyam Lovelace Esquire, Sergeaunt at the Lawe,”
whom the author desires to accompany him in a consideration of “a
matter of profite, or rather with a poynt of good Husbandrie, (in
aparance base and tedious, but in use necessarie and commodious,
and in effect pleasant and profitable) (that is to saye) to look downe
into the bowels of your grounde, and to seeke about your house at
Beddersden (which I see you desire to garnish with many costly
commodities) for a convenient plot to be applyed to a Hoppe
Garden, to the furtherance and accomplishing whereof, I promyse
and assure you, the labour of my handes, the assistance of my
advise, and the effect of myne experience.”
This little work is recommended to the reader (the
recommendation covers four pages) more particularly “as a
recompence to the labourer, as a commoditie to the house-keeper,
as a comfort to the poor, and as a benefite to the Countrie or
Commonwealth, adding thus much hereunto, that there cannot
lightly be employed grounde to more profitable use, nor labour to
more certain gaynes; howbeit, with this note, that no mysterie is so
perfect, no floure so sweete, no scripture so holy, but by abuse a
corrupt body, ascending to his venomous nature, may draw poyson
out of the same, and therefore blame not this poore trade for that it
maketh men riche in yielding double profite.” The author goes on to
say that it grieves him to see how “the Flemings envie our practise
herein” and declare English hops to be bad, so that they may send
the more into England. From this it would seem clear that at all
events foreign hops were extensively used in English beer at that
date, and English hop gardens by no means common. Scot, who
must have been a man of common sense, gives good advice to
intending hop growers. They are to consider three things: “First,
whether you have, or can procure unto yourself, any grounde good
for that purpose” (i.e. , the cultivation of hops). “Secondly, of the
convenient standing thereof. Thirdly, of the quantitie. And this I saye
by the way, if the grounde you deale withall, be not your own
enheritance, procure unto your selfe some certayne terme therein,
least another man reape the fruite of your traveyle and charge.”
From the epilogue, which concludes with a tremendous
denunciation of those who allow strangers from beyond the seas to
bring into the country that which we ought to grow ourselves, we
cull the following quaint passage:
“There will some smell out the profitable savour of this herbe,
some wyll gather the fruit thereof, some will make a sallet therewith
(which is good in one respect for the bellye, and in another for the
{76} Purse), and when the grace and sweetenesse hereof conceived,

some will dippe their fingers therein up to the knuckles, and some
will be glad to licke the Dishe, and they that disdayne to be
partakers hereof, commonly prove to be such as have mountaynes in
fantasie, and beggary in possession.”
Reynolde Scot’s pamphlet is most complete in the directions it
gives concerning hop-growing, and, strange to say, the system of
cultivation seems little changed since then. The author levels the
following remarks at the heads of those who might, yet will not,
grow hops:— “Methinks I might aptlye compare such men as have
grounde fitte for this purpose, and will not employ it accordingly, to
ale-house knightes, partly for the small devotion which both the one
and the other have unto Hoppes, but especially for that many of
these ale knights havyng good drinke at home of their owne, can be
content to drinke moore abroade at an ale-house, so they may sit
close by it. Let them expounde this comparison that buy their
hoppes at Poppering, and may have them at home with more ease,
and lesse charge.”
 Honest old Thomas Tusser, in his “Five Hundred Points of Good
Husbandry ” (1580), has a good deal to say about hops. He gives a
charmingly quaint but very practical “lesson where and when to
plant a good hop-yard.”
Whom fancy persuadeth among other cropps
To have for his spending, sufficient of hopps,
Must willingly follow, of choyses to chuse;
Such lessons approved, as skilful do use.
Ground gravely, sandly, and mixed with clay
Is naughty for hops, any maner of way,
Or if it be mingled with rubbish and stone,
For drienes and barrennes, let it alone.
Chuse soile for the hop of the rottenest mould
Well donged and wrought as a garden plot should,
Not far from the water (but not overflowne)
This lesson well noted is meete to be knowne.
The Sunne in the South, or els southly by west,
Is joye to the hop as a welcomed gest,
But wind in the North, or els northely and east,
To hop is as ill as fray in a feast. {77}
Meete plot for a hopyard, once found as is told,
Make thereof accompt, as of jewell of gold,
Now dig it, and leave it the sunne for to burne,
And afterwards fence it to serve for that turn.
Among the directions for good husbandry for the various months,
Tusser advises that―
In March at the furdest, drye season or wet,
Hope rootes so well chosen, let skilful go set,
The goeler37 and younger, the better I love
Wel gutted38 and pared, the better they prove.
 Some layeth them crosewise, along in the ground,
As high as the knee, they do come up round.
Some pricke up a sticke, in the midds of the same:
That little round hillocke, the better to frame!
Some maketh a hollownes, halfe a foote deepe,
With fower sets in it, set slant wise a steepe
One foote from another, in order to lye,
And thereon a hillock, as round as a pye.

By willows that groweth, thy hopyard without,

And also by hedges, thy meadowes about,
Good hop hath a pleasure, to climbe and to spread:
If sonne may have passage to comfort her hed.

37 goeler = goodlier.

38 gutted = taken off from the old roots.

The process of setting the hop-poles is thus described:―

Get into thy hopyard with plentie of poles,
Amongst those same hillocks deuide them by doles,
Three poles to a hillock (I pas not how long)
Shall yield thee more profit, set deeplie and strong.
Care must be taken to weed and to fence the hop garden:―
Grasse, thistle and mustard seede, hemlock and bur,
Tine, mallow and nettle, that keepe such a stur,
With peacock and turkie, that nibbles off top,
Are verie ill neighbors to seelie poore hop.
{78}

If hops do looke brownish, then are ye to slow,

If longer ye suffer, those hops for to growe.
Now, sooner ye gather, more profite is found,
If weather be faier, and deaw of ye ground.
 Not break of, but cut of, from hop the hop string,
Leave growing a little, again for to spring.
Whos hil about pared, and therewith new clad,
That nurrish more sets, against March to be had.
Hop hillock discharged, of every set
See then without breaking, ecche poll ye out get,
Which being betangled, above in the tops:
Go carry to such, as are plucking of hops.
We have quoted rather largely from Tusser’s poem, thinking that it
may interest hop-growers of the present day.
Reynolde Scot’s appeal was not in vain, for in 1608 there is no
doubt that hop plantations were fairly abundant, though the plant
was not sufficiently cultivated for home consumption. In that year an
Act was passed against the importation of spoilt hops. Until 1690,
however, the greater part of supply was drawn from abroad, and
then, to encourage home production, a duty of twenty shillings per
cwt. over and above all other charges, was put upon those imported.
Walter Blith, writing in 1643, speaks of hops as a “national
commoditie.” In 1710, the duty of a penny per lb. was imposed upon
all hops reared in England, and threepence on foreign hops. In
subsequent years slight variations were made in the amount of the
duty, and finally it was abolished, when hop-grounds at once began
to increase.
When the duty was high, and hops scarce, substitutes for
Humulus lupulus were experimented with, among others, pine and
willow bark, cascarilla bark, quassia, gentian, colocynth, walnut leaf,
wormwood bitter, extract of aloes, cocculus indicus berries,
capsicum, and others too numerous to mention, picric acid being
perhaps the most modern. None of these have been found to be an
equivalent for the hop, lacking its distinct and independent elements
of activity.
So far we have treated solely of the somewhat chequered history
of the hop. Let us now consider its merits and uses. Thus sang the
poet:―
Lo! on auxiliary Poles, the Hops
Ascending spiral, rang’d in meet array: {80}
Lo! how the arable with Barley-Grain
Stands thick, o’er-shadow’d to the thirsty hind
Transporting prospect!—These,———
————infus’d an auburn Drink compose
Wholesome of Deathless Fame.
 But from poets we do not, as a rule, gather much practical
information, except from such as worthy old Tusser. Harrison, in his
description of England, says: “The continuance of the drinke is
alwaie determined after the quantitie of the hops, so that being well
hopped it lasteth longer.” A modern writer puts it thus: “The principal
use of hops in brewing is for the preservation of malt liquor, and to
communicate to it an agreeably aromatic bitter flavour. The best are
used for ale and the finer kinds of malt liquor, and inferior kinds are
used for porter.”
“Brew in October and hop it for long keeping,” was the excellent
advice given by Mortimer. Dr. Luke Booker, in his sequel poem to the
Hop Garden, of course devotes some lines to this subject:―
Hop’s potent essence, Ale.——bring hither, Boy!
That smiling goblet, from the cask just brimmed
Where floats a pearly star. By it inspired,
No purple wine—no Muse’s aid I ask,
To nerve my lines and bid them smoothly flow.
And in another place:―
Then whencesoever the Hop,
That flavouring zest and spirit to my cask
Imparts, preservative—a needless truth
’Twere to reveal. There are, whose accurate taste
Will tell the region where it mantling grew.
In relation to his allusion to a “pearly star,” Dr. Booker tells us that,
“When ale is of sufficient strength and freshness, there will always
float a small cluster of minute pearl-like globules in the centre of the
drinking vessel, till the spirit of the liquor is evaporated.”
Hops are an essential to the brewer, not only keeping the beer and
giving it an exquisite flavour, but also assisting, if we may be
pardoned for using a technical term in a work intended to be
anything but technical, to break down the fermentation.
Hops are valuable according as they contain much or little of a
yellow powder called lupuline, and technically known as “condition,”
which is deposited in minute yellow adhesive globules underneath
the {81} bracts of the flower tops, and amounts to from 20 per cent.
to 30 per cent. of the dry hops. This powder has a powerful aromatic
smell, and is bitter to the taste. It contains hop resin, bitter acid of
hops (flavour familiar to bitter beer drinkers), tannic acid, and hop
oils, the chemical composition of which is not accurately known.
Hops contain most lupuline when the flower is fully matured. Year-
old hops only command about half the price of new. Those two
years old are called “old-olds,” and are still less valuable. After
having been five years in store they are worthless to brewers. Nearly
all hops intended to be kept are more or less (the less the better)
subjected to the fumes of sulphur, which, oxidising the essential oil,
converts it into valerianic acid, and combines with the sulphur to
form a solid body. Thus the oil, which would otherwise be the cause
of mould, is destroyed, and the hops can be kept. We believe it is
the practice of the best brewers to use a mixture of new and old
hops, the latter being slightly sulphured, so slightly, indeed, that the
smell of the sulphur cannot be detected.
Much has been written on the injurious effects of sulphuring, both
to the fermentation and the health of beer-drinkers, and some
people have very strong views on the subject. In 1855 a
commission, which included Liebig among its members, was
appointed by the Bavarian Government to inquire into the matter.
After experiments which lasted over a period of two years, a report
was issued in which it was stated that in the opinion of the
commissioners, sulphuring was beneficial to the hops, and in no way
prejudicial to the fermentation. In 1877, a method was made known
of preserving hops without sulphur. The oil which prevents the hops
from keeping was separated from them by a chemical process, and
bottled. The hops were then pressed and kept in the usual way.
When required for brewing, the hops and oil could again be united
by adding ten or twelve drops of the latter to every twenty-two
gallons of beer. This system does not seem to have found favour
with hop merchants.
Aloes have occasionally been used to restore decayed hops,
though with such poor success that we should hardly think the
experiment was often repeated. Professor Bradly, a Cambridge
professor of botany, wrote as follows:—“I cannot help taking notice
here of a method which has been used to stale and decayed hops,
to make them recover their bitterness, which is to unbag them, and
sprinkle them with aloes and water, which, I have known, has
spoiled great quantities of drink about London; for even where the
water, the malt, the brewer, {82} and the cellars are each good, a bad
hop will spoil all: so that every one of these particulars should be
well chosen before brewing, or else we must expect a bad account
of our labour.”
The age of hops is known by their appearance, odour, and feel.
New unsulphured hops, for instance, when rubbed through the hand
feel oily. In their first year they are of a bright green colour, have an
aromatic smell and the lupuline is a bright yellow. In the second year
they get darker, have a slightly cheesy odour, and the lupuline
becomes a golden yellow. In the third year the lupuline is a dark
yellow, the smell being about the same as in the second year.
In the hedges about Canton is found a variety of hop growing
wild. It has been named the Humulus Japonicus . “Although this
species,” says Seemann, in his Botany of the Voyage of H.M.S.
Herald , “was published many years ago by Von Siebold and
Zuccarini, we still find nearly all our systematic works asserting that
there is only one species of Humulus, as there seems to be only one
species of Cannabis. This, however, is a very good species, at once
distinguished from the common Hop by the entire absence of those
resinous spherical glands, with which the scales of the imbricated
heads of the latter are scattered, and to which they owe their value
in the preparation of beer, making the substitution of the one for the
other for economical purposes an impossibility.”
So much then for the first and principal use of hops—and yet a
few lines more on the same subject; from Christopher Smart’s poem
of the Hop Garden :―
 Be it so.
But Ceres, rural Goddess, at the best
Meanly supports her vot’ry, enough for her
If ill-persuading hunger she repell,
And keep the soul from fainting: to enlarge,
To glad the heart, to sublimate the mind
And wing the flagging spirits to the sky,
Require the united influence and aid
Of Bacchus, God of Hops, with Ceres joined,
’Tis he shall generate the buxom beer.
But hops have other uses than the generation of “the buxom
beer.” The discovery, which we consider an important one, was made
a few years back that hop-bine makes excellent ensilage. The
subject was {83} first mentioned, so far as we know, in a letter to The
Field of December 6th, 1884, from A. L., probably, agent to H. A.
Brassey, Esq., of Aylesford. The writer gave an account of the
opening of a silo, in one compartment of which had been placed
eight tons of hop-bines, in the beginning of the previous September.
An account of the experiment was also sent by a visitor at the farm,
from whose letter the following extract seems to us well worth
perusal:—“The hop-bine is at present an entirely waste material,
except for littering purposes; and not a few of the local farmers were
anxious to see how it would turn out, and whether stock would eat
the hop-bine ensilage or not. No experiment could be more
satisfactory. The apparent condition and smell of a great deal of it
was even superior to that of several of the other varieties; and when
a bag of it was taken to the homestead and offered to some
fattening steers, which had been well fed just before, and were not
in the least hungry, they devoured it with great alacrity, and seemed
heartily to enjoy the new food; consequently this will be good news
to hop-growers.”
Early in ’85, the following important letter on the subject appeared
in the Kentish Gazette , from Mr. T. M. Hopkins, Lower Wick,
Worcester:―
 “Having learnt from Mr. Seymour, agent to H. A. Brassey, Esq., that
hop-bine made first-rate ensilage, last Oct. I made two stacks of it
16ft. by 16ft., and 18ft. high. After letting it ferment freely, I pressed
down with Reynolds and Co.’s patent screw press, and next day filled
up again; and, when sufficiently fermented, again pressed down,
and this lasted all through the hop-picking. I have now used nearly
the whole of it, and calculate that it has saved me some 80 tons of
hay; no more hop-bine do I waste in future as I have hitherto done.
My horses have had nothing else for two months, excepting their
usual allowance of corn, and I never had them looking better. I have
also had 100 head of cattle, stores, cows, and calves feeding on it
for a fortnight, and they do well. Dr. Voelcker, chemist to the
R.A.S.E., who has analysed it, says: ‘It has plenty of good material in
it, and is decidedly rich in nitrogen, nor is the amount of acid
excessive or likely to harm cattle.’ Another analyst, Mr. W. E. Porter,
F.C.S., says: ‘It contains more flesh-forming matter and less
indigestible fibre than hay dried at 212.’ Planters should leave off
growing hops to sell at present average prices, 40s. to 50s., which is
a dead loss. Let the plant run wild, and they may every season cut
two or three immense crops of material that will make ensilage of
unexceptionable quality.” {84}
To this there is little we can add.39 The importance of the subject
is evident. We may, however, express a hope that hop-growers will
not act on Mr. Hopkins’ suggestion, and only grow hops for the sake
of the bine—English hops are too good for that. We have spoken of
hop-bine ensilage as a discovery, but French farmers have for years
mixed green hop-leaves with their cows’ food, under the belief,
rightly or wrongly we know not, that it increases the flow of milk.
Possibly in the far past hops were cultivated as fodder, and even
used as ensilage. Silos we know were used anciently, though only
recently re-introduced owing principally to the attention called to
them in The Field and the agricultural journals.

39 In a letter with which we have recently been favoured by Mr. Hopkins, that
gentleman says: “I have every reason to believe in the great value of Hop-Bine
 Ensilage . . . milking-cows do well with it, and it does not affect the flavour of
the milk.”

The stem of the hop contains a vegetable wax, and sap from
which can be made a durable reddish brown. Its ash is used in the
manufacture of Bohemian glass; and it also makes excellent pulp for
paper. From its fibres ropes and coarse textile fabrics of considerable
strength have been made. The Van de Schelldon process of cloth-
making from the stem of the hop, invented, we believe, in 1866, is
shortly as follows: The stalks are cut, done up in bundles, and
steeped like hemp. After steeping they are dried in the sun. They are
then beaten with mallets to loosen the fibres, which are afterwards
carded and woven in the usual way. It is from the thicker stems that
ropes can be made.
Several patents have been taken out for manufacturing paper
from hops. One taken out by a Mr. Henry Dyer was for paper made
of fresh or spent hops, or spent malt, alone or combined with other
materials. In 1873 a meeting of paper-makers was held in France,
before whom was exhibited a textile material made from the bark of
the hop-stalk, the outer skin being removed and subjected to
chemical treatment. It was in long pieces, and supple and delicate of
texture.
About ten years ago it was announced, in a journal devoted to
photography, that an infusion of hops, mixed with pyrogallic acid,
albumen of eggs, and filtered in the ordinary way, could be used as
a preservative for the plates then in use by photographers. Plates
preserved with this, dried hard with a fine gloss, and yielded
negatives of very high quality. A mixture of beer and albumen was
formerly used {85} for the same purpose, but owing to the varying
quality and properties of the beer, was very uncertain in its action.
The root of the hop is not without its uses, containing starchy
substances which can be made into glucose and alcohol. It also
contains a certain amount of tannin, which, it has been suggested,
might be used with advantage in tanneries.
 Until recently trumpeted forth in the advertisements of a certain
patent medicine, it was not generally known outside the medical
profession that hops possessed medicinal qualities of considerable
value. Old medical writers, however, must have changed their views
on the subject within a hundred years after the time of Andrew
Boorde, from whose works we have already quoted a few lines. Wm.
Coles, Herbalist, in his History of Plants , published in 1657, states
that certain preparations of hops are cures for about half the ills that
flesh is heir to. Another old writer declares the young shoots of the
hop, eaten like asparagus, to be very wholesome and effectual to
loosen the body (the poorer classes in some parts of Europe still eat
the young hops as a vegetable); the head and tendrils good to purify
the blood in the scurvy and most other cutaneous diseases (which
scurvy is not), and the decoctions of the flower and syrup thereof
useful against pestilential fevers. Juleps and apozems are also
prepared with hops for hypochondriacal and hysterical affections;
and a pillow stuffed with hops is used to induce sleep. This last
method, by the way, was taken advantage of by the medical advisers
of George III. That unfortunate king, when in a demented condition,
always slept on a pillow so prepared. Another writer tells us that the
Spaniards were in the habit of boiling a pound of hop roots in a
gallon of water, reducing it to six pints, and drinking half a pint when
in bed of a morning, under the belief that it possessed the same
qualities as sarsaparilla. Dr. Brooks, in his Dispensatory , published in
1753, concurs with the older writers on the subject.
Observations and Experiments on the Humulus Lupulus of
Linnæus, with an account of its use in Gout and other Diseases , is
the title of a pamphlet by a Mr. Freake, of Tottenham Court Road,
published in 1806. The author states that a patient of his, who was
in want of a bitter tincture, found all the usual remedies disagree
with him, and after numerous unsatisfactory experiments, fell back
upon a preparation of hops, which appeared to answer its purpose.
This led Mr. Freake to try further experiments with the hop, when he
came to the conclusion that it was an excellent remedy for relieving
the pains of gout, acting sometimes when opium failed. {86}
 Hops have also been employed with good effect in poultices. Dr.
Trotter, in one of his medical works, quotes a letter from an assistant
of Dr. Geach, once senior surgeon of the Royal Hospital at Plymouth,
in which the writer says that he had during six months experimented
with hops, and found that a poultice made of a strong decoction of
hops, oatmeal, and water was an excellent remedy for ulcers, which
should first be fomented with the decoction.
Dr. Paris, writing of the hop about the year 1820, says, “It is now
generally admitted that they constitute the most valuable ingredient
in malt liquors. Independently of the flavour and tonic virtues which
they communicate, they precipitate, by means of their astringent
principle, the vegetable mucilage, and thus remove from the beer
the active principle of its fermentation; without hops, therefore, we
must either drink our malt liquors new and ropy, or old and sour.”
In the introduction to Murray’s Handbook of Kent it is stated that
invalids are occasionally recommended to pass whole days in hop
grounds as a substitute for the usual exhibition of Bass or Allsopp. In
hop gardens the air is no doubt impregnated with lupuline, so there
may be something in this.
At the present day lupuline is often used in medicine. Lupuline
was the name given by Ives to the yellow dust covering the female
flower of hops. Later, Ives, Chevallier, and Pellatau gave that name,
not to the dust, but to the bitter principle it contains. The recognized
preparations of hops are an infusion, a tincture, and an extract. They
are stomachic, tonic, and soporific. Dr. John Gardner, in one of his
works on medicine, says that “bitter ale, or the lupuline in pills which
it forms by simply rubbing between the fingers and warming, are the
best forms for using hops in dyspepsia and feeble appetite, which
they will often relieve.” The lupuline powder is easily separated from
the hops by means of a sieve. A hop bath to relieve pain is also
recommended by Dr. Gardner for certain painful internal diseases. It
is made thus: two pounds of hops are boiled in two gallons of water
for half an hour, then strained and pressed, and the fluid added to
about thirty gallons of water. This bath has been much praised. Hop
beer (without alcohol) is another preparation of the plant which has
been recommended.
In America the hop is highly appreciated for medicinal purposes.
There are three preparations of it in the authorized code: a tincture,
a liquid extract, and an oleo-resin.
So much, then, for the history and economic and medicinal uses
of {87} the hop. Before we close this chapter it is our intention to give
a short account of the hop-growing countries and districts, of
hopfields, of hop-growers’ multifarious troubles, and some
description of what are perhaps the greatest curiosities of the
subject—the hop-pickers.
The European hop-growing countries stand in the following order:
Germany takes the lead with about 477,000 acres of hop gardens,
England following, and then Belgium, Austria, France, and other
states (Denmark, Greece, Portugal, &c.), in which the acreage is
insignificant. According to Dr. Thudichum, 53,000,000 kilogrammes
of hops are produced annually in Europe, and in good years
production may rise to over 80,000,000. In America hops have been
cultivated for more than two centuries, having been introduced into
the New Netherlands in 1629 and into Virginia in 1648. Hop-culture
is now common in most of the northern states.
We believe we are correct in saying that the best hop years
America has ever known, were 1866 to 1868, when the amount
produced was from 2,400 lbs. to 2,500 lbs. per acre. In 1870 the
total production was 25,456,669 lbs. In Australia hops are
extensively cultivated; they are also grown in China and India. In the
latter place they have not been introduced many years, but beer of a
fair quality is made in some of the hill stations. The following table
shows approximately the acreage of hops in England at the present
time:
 District. Acreage.
Mid Kent 17,150
Weald of Kent 12,601
East Kent 11,885
Sussex 9,501
Hereford 6,087
Hampshire 2,938
Worcester 2,767
Surrey 2,439
Other Counties 251

From the eastern limits of the hop gardens at Sandwich to the

western boundary in Hereford, hard by the borders of Wales, there
are, then, about 65,619 acres of hop gardens, or hop “yards,” as
they are called in some districts, e.g. , Worcester and Hereford.
North Cray, in Nottinghamshire, formerly grew a good quantity of
hops, but the plantations are now considerably reduced, and this
applies also to the Stowmarket district, in Suffolk, and to Essex. The
number of acres devoted to the cultivation of hops has always been
subject to great {88} fluctuations; thus in 1807 they numbered
38,218; in 1819, 51,000; in 1830, 46,727; and in 1875, 70,000.
Dr. Booker wrote that for quality of hops, Herefordshire stood first
Worcestershire second, Kent third, and North Cray fourth; but he
was probably mistaken, for the hops of East Kent have always been
held to be the best in all England, pre-eminent alike for strength and
flavour; those of Farnham, however, run them very closely. Our
English hops, indeed, are far superior to most of those imported,
and the foreigners are rarely used in beer without an admixture of
home-grown hops. Immense quantities now come from abroad; in
1828 only 4 cwt. were imported!
 Until quite recently, the whole of the hops in this country were
poled upon much the same system as that described in Reynolde
Scot’s old pamphlet—that is, three or four plants would be grown on
a hillock, each having a pole to climb. Now, the poles are largely
supplemented by wires arranged in various ways, sometimes, when
covered with bine, forming bell-tents of hops; and sometimes
running from pole to pole. Other wires leaving them at right angles
are attached to pegs in the ground. The aspect of the gardens is
greatly changed, but they are not less beautiful than of yore. Train
the hop as you will, you cannot make it unlovely. The vines twist
lovingly round the slender wires and tall poles, the former bending
under their weight and swaying to and fro in the breeze. From pole
to pole run the topmost shoots, and the whole field is one large
arbour, roofed, if it be autumn, with verdant foliage and golden
green fruit. Then, may be, the sunlight here and there touches the
glorious clusters, giving them still richer colours. “The hop for his
profit I thus do exalt,” wrote old Tusser, “and for his grace and
beauty,” he might have added, but the worthy Thomas was nothing
if not practical. Howitt, in his Year Book of the Country thus writes
of the hop country in autumn: “But all is not sombre and meditative
in September. The hopfield and the nutwood are often scenes of
much jolly old English humour and enjoyment. In Kent and Sussex
the whole country is odorous with the aroma of hop, as it is
breathed from the drying kilns and huge wagons filled with towering
loads of hops, thronging the road to London. But not only is the
atmosphere perfumed with hops, but the very atmosphere of the
drawing-room and dining-room too. Hops are the grand flavour of
conversation as well as of beer. Gentlemen, ladies, clergymen,
noblemen, all are growers of hops, and deeply interested in the state
of the crop and the market.” {89}
The use of wires is a serious matter for hop-pole growers if the
following calculation, made by some ingenious person, be correct.
Suppose that 45,000 acres of hops are under cultivation, and each
acre annually requires 800 new poles, the total annual requirement
will be 36,000,000 poles. Each acre of underwood from which poles