Creative Solutions

by Joi Mahon, Dress Forms Design Studio

Fiber Characteristics
The secret to every fabric is beneath the surface
Part I of II Series on Fiber & Fabric Characteristics

otton that is 100 percent is luxurious, but there is a time and place for blends. One reason polyester is blended with cotton is to eliminates some shrinkage, and compensates for the weak cotton fiber. Do you know why acrylic fibers are used in faux fur? It is because the fiber properties of acrylic closely simulate wool fibers. How about wanting to create a dress but not being able to afford silk? Why not consider rayon, after all it is known as artificial silk. The characteristics of fibers directly affect the properties of the fabric it is woven into. With some basic knowledge, the average sewer can make educated decisions on what fibers and fabrics are best for their next sewing project.

Definition of a Fiber
A fiber can be described as any substance natural or manufactured that is suitable for being processed into a fabric. Fiber properties include length (staple or filament), size and surface contour. These properties affect the end use such as serviceability, aesthetics, durability, comfort, retention and care. To create a fabric, fibers are spun into yarns and then woven into fabric. Through these processes a fabrics characteristics can be manipulated through blending, manipulation of the fiber and other methods. Look through a microscope and the secret to any fabric is beneath the surface.

manufactured fiber in 1949 and is also known as artificial silk since it was developed to mimic the costly silk fabrics of the time. Many people consider Rayon a natural fiber but technically it is not. Rayon is spun from naturally occurring polymers that replicates a natural fiber. Synthetic man-made fibers could take up a whole book alone with the many styles and varieties. New fibers are developed all the time. Common fibers include Polyester, Microfiber, and Nylon to name a few. Special use fibers are less common, but people may not realize that they come into contact with them on a daily basis. Surprisingly fibers such as rubber are used in Spandex. Metal such as stainless steel is used in carpets, and other metals such as silver and gold are woven into fabrics. New an innovative uses for fibers are being developed every day.

Types of Fibers
There are four types of fibers: natural, manufactured, synthetic, and minor miscellaneous types. Natural fibers include Cotton, Linen, Flax, Wool (any form of animal hair including human hair; not just sheep wool as most associate with wool), and various other minor novelty fibers such as Hemp and Spun Corn. These fibers you can pick up and spin right into a fabric. Manufactured fibers are types that come from cellulose and protein such as Rayon and Acetate. Rayon was the first
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Fiber Properties
Reading a fabric bolt label is comparable to reading a food label. Often the consumer does not understand the ingredients, why some cost more, and what exactly do they do? Understanding each ingredient of a fabric helps sewers answer questions such as Why are there blends? and A natural fiber seems better, why should I use synthetic? There are many answers to these questions. One fabric may have a blend because it was cheaper to produce, another might be that the cotton crop had a
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shortage so they had to blend with a Synthetic Fibers: These are fibers Most Commonly synthetic, yet another might be technimade from chemicals. They are heat cal since cotton is a weaker fiber, the sensitive and they melt easily. They are Used Fibers: blend helps to create a stronger yarn resistant to moths and fungi, have low 1. Cotton for fabric production enabling garabsorbency, and are abrasion-resistant. 2. Polyester ments created from the fabric to last Synthetic fibers are strong and easy to 3. Nylon longer. care for. They are less expensive and Fibers are like vitamins in readily available. that you are customizing Why Fiber Knowledge? characteristics to get a certain With some basic knowledge, the Sewers often learn about result in your fabric. It sounds average sewer can make basic fabrics, but fibers and complicated, but it is really educated decisions on what fibers how they play an intrical part simple to the consumer. Eduand fabrics are best for their next in fabric characteristics are cate sewers about the basics and sewing project. often overlooked. The wrong they will be much happier with fiber/fabric can ruin a project their fabric selections. or how it holds up during long Some basic fiber properties, term use. After educating the sewer on fiber basics one can pros, and cons that are applicable to the home sewing then apply that to fabric selection. consumer include: In my column next month, I will continue with Part II Natural Cellulose Fibers: Cotton and Flax are examples of natural cellulose fibers. These have good of this series on Fiber & Fabric Characteristics. Some of absorbency and are a good conductor of heat. They the topics Ill cover will include weaves, weights, weft, wrinkle easily and pack tightly. They are heavy fibers, warp and more. very flammable, and printed easily. Joi Mahon offers freelance creative design services to retailers and Natural Protein Fibers (Wool): These fibers have an manufacturers. Utilizing your new products or current best sellers, consider a fresh approach to your promotional displays through eye-catching animal origin. They resist wrinkling. They are hygrodesigns. scopic-comfortable in cool, damp climate but weaker For these services contact customerservice@dressformsdesign.com or call the studio 1-712-239-9921 Monday through Friday between the when wet because they shrink. Natural protein fibers are hours of 9 a.m.to 5 p.m. harmed by dry heat. They are flame resistant and dye well.

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