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STE1LL1 N G

AND FRAN CINE

CLARK, ART INSTITUTE L1BRART

PRACTICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE

ESSAYS
ON THE

ART OF WEAVING.
BY JOHN. DUNCAN,
INVENTOR OF THE PATENT TAMBOURING MACHINERY.

ILLUSTRATED BY

FOURTEEN ELEGANT ENGRAVINGS.

GLASGOW:
PRINTED FOR JAMES AND ANDREW DUNCAN % AND LONGMAN, HURST, REES AND ORME, LONDON,

I8O80

hK;
>^

ENTERED IN STATIONERS' HALL,

JAMES HEDDERWICK St CO. PRINTERS, GLASGOW.

TO THE

MANUFACTURERS OF CLOTH,
AND

OPERATIVE WEAVERS
OF THE

UNITED KINGDOM
OF

GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND,

THESE

bj

Intended For their \Jse 9

ARE

RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.

Digitized by the Internet Archive

in

2013

http://archive.org/details/practicaldescriOOdunc

CONTENTS.

?ag

Introduction

Motives

for undertaking this

Work

Objections considered
to the

Art of Weaving

Historical Facts relative

Political

and Economical

Causes of its Extension-General Plan and Abstract

of the Contents of the Essays,

....
...
.
.

ESSAY

I.

ON THE WEAVING OF PLAIN CLOTH.

Materials and Texture,

.....
.
.
..

General Explanation of the Plates,

2
4?

Winding,

Warping,

...
.

Warping

Mill,

.6
9

Operation of Warping,

Beaming,

.11
.

Drawing,

12

Weaving Loom,

.13
.

Yarn Roll, or Beam,

16

CONTENTS.
Rods,
Heddles,

...

PAGE.
*
.

18
ib.

Lay and Reed,

Temples,
Cloth Roll, or Beam,
Shuttle and Pirn,
.

....
.

21

24
. .

Dressing,

Weaving,
Treading,
.

...
the "Woof,

Crossing the Shuttle,

Striking

... ..... .... .... ....

ib.

25
.

26
29

30
33

home

ib.

Faults in Cloth,
Calculations and Tables,

36
,

38

Warpers Table,
Ravels,

43
p
.

56

Beaming Table,
Setting of Heddles,
.

'

59
.

72
75

Setting Table,

Ornamental Weaving, wi th Plain Mounting,

Stripes,
.

80
ib.

Checks,

84

CONTENTS.

ESSAY

II.

ON THE WEAVING OF TWEELED CLOTH.

PAGE.

General Remarks,

.85
,

Causes of the Strength of Tweels,

87

Mounting of Looms

for Tweeling,

Draught and Cording,

.....
.
.
.

.89
92 95 98

Arrangement of Treddles,
Breaking the Tweel,
.

....
. .

Tweel of Five Leaves,

Six Leaves,
.

.99
.

100
.

Seven Leaves,
Eight Leaves,
Sixteen Leaves,
Stripes,
.

ib.

101
.

Tweeled
_

102
ib.

__

of Five Leaves,
. .

.103
.

Broken Tweeled
Design Paper,
.

Stripe,
. .

104

.105

Patterns for Table Cloths.

Of

2 Sets, or 10 Leaves,
Sets,
. .
.

108

3 4 5 6

Sets,
Sets,

...
'

.111
.

113

.117
.

Sets,
.

119
.

Back Harness, or Diaper Mountings

122

CONTENTS.
PAGE.

Fancy Flushing,
Remarks,

125 133

Collection of Patterns used in the Lancashire

facture,

Manu137
151

Serge Tweeling,

LIST OF
1st,

THE PLATES.

"Warping Apparatus.

2d, Plan and Elevation of a Plain

Loom.

3d, Elevations and Sections of do.

5th, Plans and Elevation of

Mounting

for Tweeling.

6th, Designs, Draughts, and Cording for Table Cloths.

7th,

Do.

illustrated

by colours.

8th, Plans and Elevations of the

Back Harness, or Diaper

Mounting.

CONTENTS.

ESSAY

III.

DOUBLE CLOTH WEAVING.

PAGE.

Introductory Remarks,
Carpets of two Colours,
.

.153
.

154?

Draw Loom,
Patent

,161
.

Reading on the Design,

.

164*
.

Draw Loom, Comparison of the Draw Looms, Remarks on Mounting Draw Looms, Carpet Draw Loom,
. .

169 172

.174
.

176

Carpets of more than two Colours,

Concluding Remarks,

.....
. .

.179
ib.

ESSAY

IV.

CROSS WEAVING.
Introductory Remarks,

....
.

181

Gauze,

182
.
.

Description of Mounting,

186
187

Application of the Weights,

CONTENTS.
PAGE,

Connections of the Mounting,

189 192 195

197

"Whip Net,
Mail Net,

Mounting and Connections,

General Remarks,
Patent Net, or Night Thought,

199

200
202

Mounting and Connections,

Catgut,

204

Miscellaneous Observations,

205
ib.

Dropped Nets,
Spider Net,

206
.

Double Paris Net,

Balloon Nets,

ib. ib.

Concluding Remarks,

207

ESSAY

V.

SPOT WEAVING.

Common

Spots,
.

....
,

209
212 214
218

Paper Spots,
Allover Spots,

.-.-

Brocades, or Finger Spots,

Spot

Draw Loom,
.

Lappets,

Double Frame Lappet,

Wheel

Lappets,

Pressed Spotting,
Conclusion,

..... ..... ......

. .

220
221

222
ib.

224

225

CONTENTS.
ESSAY
VI.

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
PASS.

Introductory Remarks,
State of the Linen

227
231

Trade

in 1733,

Advance of

this

Trade

until 1784,

250
252
253

Remarks on the Linen Manufacture,

Rise and Progress of the Cotton Trade,
.

Comparison of the Trades,

256
.

Modes of Economy in the Cotton, Winding Machines for Warp,

Stockport Plan,

258

....
.
. . .

259
.

261
ib.

Dressing Machine,

Improvement

in

Looms,

262
263 266
267

Remarks on Dressing,
Cylindrical

Brush Machine,
at Barrowfield,

Experiment made
Hints for
its

Improvement,

270
272

Power Looms,

Wiper Loom,
Crank Loom,
Vertical

.....
. .

274
276

Loom,

277
282
283
ib.

Velocity of

Power Looms,

Modes

of inserting Weft,

Compressing of Cops,

....
.

Winding Machines

for Pirns,

284

CONTENTS.
ESSAY
VII.

MANUFACTURING OF CLOTH.
Introductory Remarks,

....
.

PAGE.

285
286
287
296 302

Caaming, or Sleying,

Geometrical Principles, as published in 1759,

Remarks on

this

Theory,

Computation of Linen Yarn,

Table of Warps,
.

305
318

Principle of the Calculations,

Computation of Cotton Yarn,

of Woollen Yarn, of Silk,
.

319
321
ib.
ib.

Scotch and English Reeds,

Bolton and Manchester Reeds,
Stockport Reeds,
. .

322
ib.

Comparative Tables,

323

Manchester and Bolton,

Stockport,
.
.

32^
325 326

Weavers' Glasses,

LIST OF

THE

PLATES.

4th, Miscellaneous Specimens of the Texture of Cloth,

9th, Plans and Sections of various

Draw Looms.

10th, Plans and Sections of

Gauze Mountings.
Net Mountings.

11th, Plans and Sections of

12th, Designs, Draughts, and Cordings of Spots. 13th,

Do.
Looms.

do.

14th, Plans, &c. of the

Working Machinery

of

Power

INTRODUCTION.

THE

motives which induced

me

to undertake this

work, have been shortly stated in the Prospectus,

which has been

circulated.

The

great extent to

which

the manufacture of almost every species of cloth has been

carried in this country, undoubtedly renders
it

an object

of the

first

national

importance; and an apology for

attempting a collection of facts relative to this business,

which, although extensively known, have

never been

collected and recorded, seems hardly necessary.

A Variety of publications
chiefly designed

relative to the art of

weaving*

for the use of the operative class of

weavers have, indeed, appeared at different periods*

the

But

authors of

all

these

works have acted upon the

itself

presumption, that the art

readers, but that they

was

fully

known

to their

were wholly, or

partially, ignorant

of the science of arithmetic.

collections
calculation,

Hence, they contain merely

the

of Tables

for

purpose

of

facilitating

many

of which are more adapted to the use

of the manufacturer, than of the operative warper or

weaver.

Of

the mechanical part of the business, such

as the construction of the looms,

and other apparatus,

requisite for various kinds of

work, and the practical

instructions necessary for

working these looms, they do

not at

all treat.

11

INTRODUCTION.
That these works have been found useful
for

the

purposes for which they were intended, the extensive

circulation of

most of them

sufficiently evinces.

But

it

seems

also evident, that they

were better calculated

for

a former, than for the present state of society.

The

general knowledge of arithmetic has gradually extended

since the times at

which most of them were published,

and

while that of the mechanical part of the business, during

the same interval, has become,
is

still

becoming

more
the

limited.

To

those

who

look in a cursory way, at

the business

immense extension and improvement of

Nothing, however,

in all its branches, this observation

may appear
more
still

rash and

unfounded.

is

certainly true,

and the causes which have produced, and

to produce this

continue

limitation of general knowledge,

both

among manufacturers and

easily

operative

weavers,

may be

and

satisfactorily traced.
fifty

Forty or

years ago,

when

the manufactures,
a

afe

least those of Scotland,

tively small scale,

were conducted upon

comparato linens

and almost entirely confined

and coarse woollen goods, the materials of which were

the growth of the country j most persons spun, or pur-

chased their
to fabricate

own

yarn, and employed their

own weavers
it.

either plain or

ornamented cloth from

Every mistress of a family was, then, the manufacturer

of her

own household

cloths,

and the character of

good

housewife depended, in no small degree, upon the quantity

produced under her management.

tice in

This
it

is still

the prac-

many

parts of Scotland, but

all

is

gradually

upon

the decline, arid* in

probability, must, at

no very distant

period, cease to exist.

In this state of the manufacture^

it

was necessary for

every weaver^ in order to suit the demands of his em-

INTRODUCTION.
ployers or customers, to be acquainted with the

Ill

manner of

weaving

a considerable variety of goods;

and hence arose

the superiority of the general knowledge of the old, to

that of the

modern weavers.

But

this

manner of con-

ducting a manufacture can never subsist long, after a

country begins rapidly to extend her trade.

advantages
derived

The

great

from the division of labour,

and

adoption of a regular system of economy, in the arrange^

ment and

direction of every business, are soon felt, and

felt

no sooner

than

acted

on.

The
work

operative

who
con-

frequently shifts from one kind of

to another, will

never attain the same dexterity in any, as he

stantly
also

who

is

employed

at

the same.
loss

His frequent changes

produce
is

much

of time, and, consequently, his

work
It

both higher in price, and inferior in quality.

be admitted, that this general principle, the
is

will

truth of

which

acknowledged by

all

writers on economy,
all

ha been applied to practice, with great rapidity, in

the branches of the manufacture of cloth, both in

England

and Scotland.

The former

country, indeed, from the

it

superior extension of her trade, had adopted

cases, before
it

in

most

was much thought of

in the latter.

The

great majority of

mankind

are ever prone to limit

their desire of information, to that

which appears

at

the

time, most necessary to their subsistence and comfort.

The modern weaver,

employed
at

accustomed

to

be

constantly

the same kind

of work, seldom troubles

himself to inquire by what means other kinds are, or

may be produced, and hence

impede the progress of
Indeed,
already,
his

the very cause which

in-,

creases his practical dexterity, tends at the

same time,

to

knowledge pf

his profession.

many

of the different species of weaving have,

local,

become nearly

and the Manchester weaver

IV
is,

INTRODUCTION.
in general, as ignorant of the
as

mode of mounting and

working a gauze or net loom,

is

he of Paisley or Glasgow-

of a corduroy or velveteen.
is

The

division of labour,

however,
a

now
it

carried

still

further.

The mounting

of

loom

is

frequently the business of one man, and the

that of another*, and there are

working of

many weavers

who work know how

That
to be
It is,

for years

upon

a loom, of

which they hardly

to arrange a single cord or lever.

this

system of division, the beneficial

so

effects of

which have been

still

much

felt in practice, will

is

continue

further extended, there

no room to doubt,
it is

however, matter of regret, that whilst

produceffect

tive of so

many

practical benefits to

society,

its

should tend to preclude thousands of useful and valuable

men, from the acquisition of knowledge, which, although

they should be seldom called to exercise,
tial

may be

of essen-

service in

many

situations,

and will

at least afford to

an inquisitive mind, a source of rational and innocent

amusement.
Besides this consideration,

many

other circumstances

concur, to render records of the state of every art peculiarly desirable.

It is

well ascertained by the researches

of Antiquarians, that

many

useful and ornamental arts,

which were known and

been
totally lost for

practised

by the
records.

ancients, have

want of such

In the orna-

mental parts of weaving, such losses have, probably,

occurred frequently, and may, very probably, occur again.

The
kind
lie

ornamental

arts

are so

much

regulated by the

prevailing fashion, taste, and, probably, caprice of

at the day, that

manthe

many

species of ornamental goods

if

neglected for years, and are afterwards revived,

their construction
is is

knowledge of
this

then existing.

When

knowledge

only transmitted by verbal instruction,

INTRODUCTION.
and when that instruction
is

confined to the efforts of

operative tradesmen, employed in the

more
Their

active duties

of their respective professions,

little

expectation can be
attention
is

formed of
naturally

its

general

diffusion.

more directed

to their present, than to their

it

former employments, and when

is

no longer

in their

power

to illustrate the instructions

which they may occapractical

sionally convey to others,

by showing them the

difficult.

operation, the task

becomes doubly
it is

Labouring

under such obstacles,

scarcely to be doubted that arts

which
lost,

fail

into temporary decay, will be either entirely

or recovered with great difficulty.

Of
is

this

the

decay of the gauze and net manufacture

instance.

a striking

Some

years ago, this branch of weaving

had

attained a considerable extent in the west of Scotland,

particularly in the

town and neighbourhood of

was
silk,

Paisley.

The

material employed

and the manufacture

very beautiful.

While the fashion continued, the business

But
it

was prosperous.
rapid decay.

contained in

itself,

the seeds of

The raw

material

was

costly,

and from

its

inherent quality, added to the flimsiness of the texture,

ill

calculated to undergo the fatigue of any

known

opera-

tion for whitening or clearing.

The goods

were, of

course, expensive luxuries, from the attainment of

the great majority of people

which

were precluded, by the price

this period,

and want of

durability.

About

in conse-

quence of the invention of spinning cotton by machinery,

the muslin trade

was introduced.

The

muslins possessed

three advantages over the silk gauzes.

They were new

would bear
lasting.

they
totally

were cheaper.-and,

as

the cotton

washing or bleaching, they were more

The
of

silk

gauze manufacture, already rapidly declining, was soon

abandoned,

and

considerable

laspe

years

VI

INTRODUCTION*
was
silk.

intervened, before the weaving of gauzes and nets

resumed,

and cotton substituted in the place of

in reviving this
it

Those who were employed

weaving,
difficult,
ill

branch of

know
and,
it

that the
is

progress of

was slow and

it

not improbable, that had

remained

disuse for a
it

much

longer period, and a generation intotally lost.

tervened,

might have been

The

arts of printing

and engraving afford important

facilities for

preserving and diffusing the knowledge of

mechanical operations,
for the cheapest,

and

to these

we

ought

to look

easiest,

and most

effectual
to,

means of
which naand

counteracting the inconveniences alluded

turally obstruct the progress of useful knowledge,

which

are

much

increased by the

modern system of

economical arrangement.

Having

stated the foregoing remarks, as the inducements

to apply

which led me

my

attention to the investigating

art of

and analysing the various branches of the

I

weaving,

shall

notice

two objections which have been urged

against

my
first

undertaking.
of these
is,

The
secrets those

That
it

it

is

improper

to

divulge tJw

of any trade, because

practise
it.

may

operate to the prejudice of

is

who

This doctrine

so justly,

and

now
little

almost universally exploded, that

I shall

occupy very

room upon
at
all

it.

It will

appear at once, without entering

of the policy of monopolies,
legal restriction, that the
It is

into

the question

whether preserved by secrecy or

case does not apply to the business of weaving.

absurd to suppose,

]that

a trade

which employs

so

many

thousand people, in almost every quarter of the world,

and which has existed

is

for so

many thousand

years, either

or can be secret.

Besides, experience has sufficiently-

proved, that liberal and unreserved communication be-

INTRODUCTION.
tween
artificers

Vll

of

all

descriptions, has always produced

good, and never

evil.

Indeed,

it

is

obvious, that every

man, where

this takes place, receives the

advantage of
in return.

the instruction of many, and gives only his

own

The balance, therefore, must always be in his favour^ With these short remarks, I shall dismiss this objection. The second objection which has been urged, although
it

does not appear, to me, to stand upon a more solid

foundation than the former,

consideration.

may
is,

require a

little

more

The

objection

That by communicating

information itpon the art of weaving, a knowledge of that art

may

be

acquired out of this country,

and, consequently, the

manufactures

may

become

less

productive.

Whether
which our

a general

knowledge of the principles Upon

arts are

conducted, would in any respect injure

if

the manufactures of this country,

known

abroad; and

whether
I confess

it is

possible to prevent

them from being known,

appears to me, at the least, a matter of very great

doubt.
extent,

But were the proposition admitted,

respecting arts

in its fullest

which have originated or may

it

Originate with ourselves,

could have no effect upon the

principles of the art of weaving,

which has been

entirely

imported, and has received

little

other alteration, than

what has been derived from the improvement of the

machinery,

and the various

place.
is

economical arrangements

which have taken

The
it

history of this art

very

little

known, and

its

great antiquity, necessarily, involves the earlier eras of

in the

most perfect obscurity.

Enough, however,
it

is

known

to prove that

none of the species of

manufacture was
first

originated

in Britain.

The

silk

practised in

China, and the Cotton in India.

linen

Both the woollen and

were borrowed by us from the Continent of Europe^

Vlll

INTRODUCTION.
improvements in them

and

all

we owed,
settled

for a long period,.

us.

to the foreign artificers

who

amongst

To
is

the

present day, our superiority in point of quality,

only

acknowledged
of
silk,

in the cotton

manufacture, whilst in those

it

woollen, and linen,

is

still

disputed by other

countries.

We

find

that a

cloth workers continent, and

were invited
settled

number of weavers and by Edward III. from the

in England, for the purpose of

introducing

and promoting the woollen manufacture,

In the following year, two weavers'

about the year 1330.

(probably of linen) came from Brabant, and settled at

York, which that monarch considered of such importance,

as to declare, that
it

" may be

of great benefit, to us and

" our

subjects."
into

Many more

weavers from Flanders,

were driven

England by the persecutions of the

Duke

of Alva, in the year 1567,

who

settled in different

parts of the

kingdom, and introduced the manufacture of

and other
stuffs.

baizes, serges, crapes,

Again, about

the year 1686, nearly 50,000 manufacturers, of various'

descriptions, took refuge in Britain, in consequence of

the revocation of the edict of Nantz, and other acts of

religious persecution,
this era,

committed by Louis XIV.

From

we may

date the rise of the linen manufacture

I

in this

kingdom.

have met with an old, and,

I believe,

now

very scarce book, published at Edinburgh in 1724,

for Improving in
is

by order of " the Honourable Society

the Knowledge of Agriculture."
It

entitled

"

" Treatise concerning the manner of fallowing of ground, raising of grass seeds, and training of lint and hemp " "
for the increase

and improvement of the linnen manu-

factories in Scotland."
to

The

first five

chapters of this

work, are devoted

agricultural

subjects y

the sixth,

contains directions, for spinning linen yarnj the seventh,

INTRODUCTION.
treats of the

IX

weaving of linen cloth ; and the eighth, of

bleaching.

The title of the seventh chapter is as follows Chap. 7. Concerning weaving of Linnen-Cloth

in

Imitation of the Foreign Linnen.

*<

1st,

What Looms
The looms

are used in this

Kingdom.
for

2dly,

of this

Kingdom not proper

Estilles

weaving good Cloth.

<*

3dly,

The Dutch Looms and

French Looms
fit

fit

for Hollands,

Cambricks, &c.

4thly,

for Cloth of

Normandy and
for

Brittany.

"

5thly,

Choice of Reeds, and Yarn

fit

Reeds and

" Geers (heddles), 6thly, The way of

dressing Yarn, and preparing the

*(

Stuff.

" "

7thly,

The Cloth

as yet

made

in this

Country too

thin and sleazy.

8thly,

The waft

to

be somewhat

finer

than the

" warp, &c."

To

this chapter, are

added

six coarsely

executed enfirst
is

gravings of the foreign looms described.

profile elevation,

The

and

is

called

The

side of the

French

The second is a perspective view of the same loom. The third is fi The side of a Loom called Estille." The fourth, a perspective view of the Estille. The fifth and sixth, are the side and perspective of the Dutch Loom. Of these looms, the Dutch is extremely heavy, and is
intended for the stoutest fabric, or holland.

" Loom."

The French
and the Es-

loom
tille,

is

for the next kind of cloth, or linen;

for the lightest, or cambric.

is

The

construction of

them

extremely clumsy, and, however highly prized in

X
those days,
or

INTRODUCTION.
to a modern,

would appear very strange

weaver

loom wright.
rise

The back

posts of the Estille, or cambric

loom,

no higher than the yarn beam, and the whole

is

appearance of the frame work,

not unlike some of the

modern power
These

looms.

facts sufficiently prove, that

we

have no preten-

sions to superior

knowledge, or exclusive possession of

art

any secrets or mysteries belonging to the

of weaving.

The

very names of most of our manufactures indicate

their origin to

be foreign.

Holland, Florentine, Linau,

Marseille, Paduasoy, and

Cord du

roi,

Genoa Cord,

many
de-

others, as clearly denote the quarters

from which

we
in

rived the art of manufacturing these stufFs, as the

names
our

Nankeen, Ballasore, Madrass, Bengal, &c. used

cotton manufacture, evince their importation from India,

at a

more recent

period.

It is not,

therefore, in our superior knowledge, but in

religious,
political,

a chain of events,
that

and economical,

we ought

to trace the causes of the present unrivaled

greatness of our manufactures, and their consequent circulation in every quarter of the globe.
liberal policy of

To

the wise and

our third Edward,

we owe

the

first

in-

troduction of these manufactures; and to the tyranny and

cruelty of Alva, and the bigotry and intolerance of Louis,

we are indebted for much of their improvement. To these sources, we may trace the establishment
duced their gradual progress
easily found.

of

our cloth manufactures ; and the causes, which have proto their present state, are
at

Since the period,

which we acquired the

benefits of the united skill and labour of the French arti-

zans r
his

whom

the folly and caprice of a tyrant drove from

to seek refuge here, the internal peace
little

own dominions

of this country has been

disturbed.

Two

rebellions,

INTRODUCTION.
the only exceptions.

XI

neither long In duration, nor extensive in mischief, are

During the same period, we have

civil liberty,

enjoyed a greater portion of religious and

and

more equal administration of justice, than any other

country in Europe.
perty, arising
fidence,

The

tranquillity,

and security of pro-

from these causes, naturally produced conas naturally

and confidence

produced enterprise

and exertion.

Our

insular situation, besides affording us

internal peace amidst the

wars which have convulsed and

desolated the rest of Europe, gave us

uncommon facilities

for commercial intercourse with every part of the world.

Both the acquisition and security of property were, thus,

placed within -the reach of genius and industry, and more

powerful stimulants do not exist.

It will

not appear wonderful, that with such advantages,

we

should have outstripped competitors, perhaps equally

ingenious, and equally industrious, but

whose

exertions

have been thwarted, and whose career has been interrupted

by events, from the operation of which

either partially,

we

have been,

or wholly exempted.
little

While we have
have daily had

proceeded with

interruption,

we

opportunities of improving our knowledge, and profiting

both by our prosperity and misfortunes.

The former
latter,

has
as a

served us as an example and incentive*, the

warning for the future.

This, I trust,
is

not an overcharged picture of the

general state of almost every extensive manufacture in

Britain.

The

capital

employed

in

them

is

immense, the

principles

upon which

their prosperity

depends have been

skil-

investigated and matured, the

ful

workmen have become

and expeditious, regularity has been introduced, and

facilitating operations extensively applied.
is

machinery for

An

order of things like this,

not, nor ever can be, the

Xll
creature of a

INTRODUCTION,
moment.
It is

the gradual result of the

exercise of deliberate exertion, of genius, enterprise* and

patient industry.
rests, is

The

basis

upon which the whole system

confidence of personal safety, and security of prothis confidence

perty.

Even

can only be gradually acquired,

and years must elapse, before the continent of Europe can

assume such

a political

and commercial aspect, as will

induce capitalists to embark their property in permanent

establishments, and before mechanics can acquire sufficient skill and dexterity, to prove dangerous rivals to the

already established manufacturers of Britain.

this, the field for further

Besides

improvement

is

still

most ex-

tensive,

and promises to be cultivated both with ardour

In every quarter,

and with judgment.

men

of genius

and science are busied

speculative principles,

in applying those elementary

and

which were formerly confined to

which connects
is

the closet of the philosopher, to the purposes of active

and useful improvement. The great

theory with practice in
all

link,

the

useful arts,

rapidly

forming, and the result affords a rational prospect of our

manufactures being extended and improved, even more

than they have been.

In such a state,

I see

nothing to

fear in a competition, purely commercial, with the

whole

world; and,

own,

that I can contemplate the prospect

of general peace, not only without apprehension for the

prosperity of our country, but with real pleasure and

sanguine hope.

Would

to heaven, that every country in

Europe had

as little to

dread from the power of the French

skill

arms, as this has from the

I

of her manufacturers. so
to

am almost apprehensive, that after employing much time upon this subject, many will be inclined
think, that I have raised a

phantom merely

for the pur-

pose of combating

it.

can, however, assert, that the

INTRODUCTION.
persons for whose judgment, on most subjects,
I

Xlll

objection has been seriously and repeatedly urged,

by

have

much
doubt.

esteem, and the purity of whose motives I cannot

As

the question

is

important, I shall offer no

it

apology for having discussed

at

some length.
I

Having explained the objects which

publishing this work,
general plan of
it.

have in view in

I shall

now

proceed to consider the

Extensively as the art of weaving

tion of one branch
as

is

applied, the varia-

from another

is

by no means so great
are, properly,

may be

generally imagined.

There

only

two
plain

kinds, namely, plain,

cloth,

and cross weaving.

spotting,

Besides
all

tweeling,

flushing,

and

the
first.

ornamental

varieties, are
is

only modifications of the

Common

gauze

the ground of the second, and

all

the

fanciful nets,

and other cross woven goods, are entirely

This, therefore, I
classing the
at

founded upon the same principle.

consider to be the most correct
different kinds of cloths
;

method of
first

but, in a

attempt

regular

arrangement,

think

it

better, in order to avoid obscurity

classification

and confusion, to make the

I

more

particular.

have,

therefore,

allotted

particular Essays for every

branch which

differs in

any essential point from another,

and

have preferred such distinction as arises from the

difference of the mechanical operation, to that

which

is

produced by the nature and quality of the material.

The
which

first
is

Essay

is

devoted to the weaving of plain cloth,

by

far the

most extensive, and

in

which

all

the

kinds of yarn are used, either separately or combined.

The

second, rebates to

tweeling

and flushing.

This

branch comprehends also a great variety of thick goods,

manufactured from

all

the materials generally employed

Jn the texture of cloth.

XIV

INTRODUCTION.
now work. The
are
It

These two Essays

specimens of the

submitted to the public, as

second part

is

at the press,

and considerably advanced, both

graving department.
will

in the printing

and en-

probably appear early in

January 1808, and will consist of the following Essays: Essay 3d, will treat of the weaving of Double Cloth,

and &c.

its

application to the manufacture of carpets, quilts^

It

will

also

contain a description of the

sections,

Draw

Loom,
of
its

illustrated

by plans,

and elevations j and

application to the weaving both of damasks and

carpets.

Essay 4th, will contain a description of the methods of

Cross Weaving, and of the modes of producing the

ferent kinds of gauze, catgut, and nets.

dif-

The

Plates

attached to this Essay will exhibit the plans, elevations,

and sections, necessary to enable a mechanic to compre*liend the nature of the machinery employed.

Plans of

the draught and cording of gauzes and nets will also be

given, which, in so far as I

know, has never been before

attempted, and the want of which has greatly increased

the difficulty of acquiring a competent knowledge of this

branch of the

art.

In Essay 5th, the ornaments, such as spots, brocades^

lappets, &c.

which

are interwoven with various grounds,

will be investigated,

and

illustrated

by

plates.

Essay 6th, will be devoted to the consideration of the

economy of weaving, the omission of unnecessary, and

the simplification of indispensible processes, the division
of labour, and the application of power.

And

Essay 7th, will be set apart for the investigation

of such facts and subjects, relative to the manufacturing

of cloth, as form more properly the business of the
facturer, than of
t;he

manu-

operative weaver.

INTRODUCTION.
From
this abstract of the subjects of the Essays,
it

XV
will

appear that regular arrangement forms an essential part of the plan of the work.
has already been, and
instances, to deviate
tensive,
it is

am
still

aware, however, that

it

may

be necessary, in some

from

this.

Upon

a subject so ex-

hardly possible to avoid occasional omissions

of facts which

may

be important.

Whenever

this shall

appear to have been the case,

I shall,

without hesitation,

introduce whatever I conceive to be material and important, even out of the regular order ; for I conceive any

disadvantage arising from this, to be less injurious to the

general utility of the work, than the suppression of facts

which deserve

to

be known.

In general,

am more

solicitous to record facts than opinions,

latter are occasionally

but where the

introduced, I have been careful to

to state the reasons

give

them

as such,

and

which have

induced

me

to adopt them.

With

respect to the style,

this kind.

much

will not

be expected in a work of

Me-

chanical descriptions, and the investigation of processes

necessary in manufactures, afford no scope for excursions

of fancy, nor declamatory eloquence.
If they are clear,

accurate, and perspicuous, they will sufficiently answer

the ends for

which they

are intended.

The

attainment

of this has been

my

sole

aim; but

am

too conscious of

the difficulty of accomplishing even this, to flatter myself

that I have always succeeded.
I

must here notice

considerable difficulty,

which

attends a person

who

writes

upon the
in

art of

weaving;

and indeed the same

difficulty,
all

some measure, acThis

companies descriptions of
especially those
is

the other mechanical arts,

least discussed.

which have been Those which

the

want of precise technical words,

clearly.

to express our

meaning

are

used by weavers,

XVI

INTRODUCTION.
district,

vary in almost every

and

in every

branch of the
to the

manufacture.

Hence, terms which are familiar

weavers in one place, are almost unknown to those of

another.

In this state, I had no choice but to adopt

those which I have found most generally used, and best

understood by the operative weavers, in

country.
I

this part of

the

hope, from the explanations which accom-

pany

all

or most of them,

few weavers who

which

are accus-

tomed
them;

to a different nomenclature, will find

much

diffi-

culty in comprehending the meaning

I attach to

and they may then substitute any term most

familiar to them, for the one

which

have used.

In the course of

my

inquiries concerning those branches

of weaving with which I was least conversant, I have

uniformly experienced attention and

civility,

and have
liberal

found every person to

communicative.
assistance
I

whom

have applied,

and

must, however, acknowledge the great

I

which

have received from Mr. "William

to

Jamieson, King-Street, Glasgow,

for a

whom I am

indebted

number of valuable designs of

various kinds of work,

practice in various

collected

by him during many years

branches of weaving, and for

information.

much

useful and accurate

The

fourth Plate, which contains a miscellaneous col-

lection of

specimens of various cloths, and which

is

generally referred to throughout the whole work, cannot,

upon
first

that account, be finished so as to

part.
It will,

accompany the

therefore,

be published with the

second.

GLASGOW,

6th November, 1807.

ADVERTISEMENT,

THHIS
Jk

work being now completed,

is

submitted to the
in

judgment of professional men, and the public

general, with considerable diffidence.

The Art of Weaving

has been so extensively applied in almost every country,

and the knowledge of

go

its

various branches acquired from

it

many

different sources^ that

is

impossible that any

individual should have been practically

employed

in

all

those branches.
the insertion of

When

reduced to

its

original principle,

weft by forming sheds, every part bears a

strong analogy to the rest; and the minute knowledge of

each of these parts must be acquired by experience and

reflection.

This, to a certain degree,

is

the case in

all

arts

and sciences, but many of them have been frequently

and minutely investigated, through the medium of the

press.

The

errors

and deficiencies of one author, have

been corrected and supplied by others; and those

who

afterwards discuss the subject, possess the advantage of

ready access to
all

the opinions and

all

the knowledge of

their predecessors. to investigate,

In the art which I have undertaken

exists; for little, if

no such advantage

any

thing, has ever been published

upon the

subject.

With
parts

such disadvantages,
of this

it is

natural to expect that

as erroneous,
I

some

work may be considered

Respecting the
c

and others
I

superficial.

first,

can only say, that

XV111

ADVERTISEMENT.

have assiduously used every means of procuring accurate

information, upon those points in which I had the
practical experience;
least:

and that

have not, knowingly,

descrip-

misrepresented any thing.

tions of the net

The drawings and

work, were taken from a loom, upon a

small scale, which I was at pains to have mounted successively,

for

every

different

species

which

have

described.

Respecting the second, besides the

its

difficulties

attendant on the subject, from

varieties in the

novelty, the

whole

Art of Weaving,
a

if

investigated in detail,
size

would occupy
which

work

far

beyond the
this
is

and price 5

those, for

whose use

chiefly intended, could

be supposed capable of purchasing.

The
taking

general plan of the work, the motives for under^

it,

and the objections to the undertaking, were

so fully detailed in the Introduction to the First Part,

that
it

does not appear necessary to

subjects.

say

much

here

upon these
Part
is

The arrangement
five

of the Second

very nearly the same as mentioned, in the Intro-

duction.

The

first

Essays,

comprehending Plain
Cross

Weaving,

Tweeling,

Double

Cloth Weaving,

Weaving, and Spotting,

are chiefly intended for the use

it

of operative weavers, and those whose business

to superintend the

may be
come
on

weaving department of

manufactory

of cloth.

The

mercantile part, evidently does not

,

within the plan of a work of this nature

a business so exceedingly extensive,

nor, indeed,

whose markets exworld, whose

tend to almost every part of the

known

branches are so widely different, and whose fluctuations,

both from natural and

political causes, are so frequent,

would

it

be easy to write any thing

satisfactory.

The
object

mercantile system, forming one of the most important

branches of political economy, and having for

its

ADVERTISEMENT.
the exchange of
all

XIX

commodities, both in their rude and

cannot be properly treated of in a

manufactured

state,

work, confined to the investigation of the principles and

practice of a particular

application of

human

art

and

industry.

In the sixth Essay,

recent
plans
for

have given some account of the

introduction

the

of

that

species

of

economy, which, by decreasing human labour, and

plifying the processes necessary to bring the

simr-

materials

used in fabricating cloth from the rude to the manufactured state, tends to reduce the price
goods.

of the finished

This chiefly applies to the manufacture of cotton,

all

where almost

these plans have originated.

In

this

part of the work, I

am aware

that so

much

diversity of

opinion
for the

may exist, that I can only way in which I have treated

investigation.
I

offer, as
it,

an apology

the importance of
society

the subject, and the advantages

which

may

derive

from

its

ought, perhaps, also to apologize

for the comparative

view of the linen and cotton manurelative to the state of

I

factures,

and for the long extract

the former, about 75 years ago,

into the
far the

which

have introduced

same Essay.

The two

branches of weaving, by

most extensive,

at least in Scotland, are,

however,

certainly subjects both of general

and particular curiosity,

and for

this reason, I

conceived the comparison to be, in

Since that
I

some degree, within the plan of the work.

Essay was printed,
I

have been informed, although

can
in-

by no means pledge myself for the accuracy of the

formation, that the book, from which the extract
is

taken,

was attributed

to the late

Duncan Forbes

of Culloden,
a

Lord President of the Court of Session,

versally

man

uni-

esteemed for the patriotism and benevolence of

his character.

XX

ADVERTISEMENT.
I

In the seventh Essay,

attempt which
I

have republished the

only-

have ever met with, to analyse the

geometrical principles upon which the adaptation of warps

to reeds, depends.
I

have added the reasons which inopinion from the ingenious

duce me, partly, to

differ in

author of that hypothesis.

The remainder of
of in

this Essay, relates to the

computation

of yarn of various kinds, a subject which has been treated

many former

publications; and, indeed, the only

at all.

branch of the business which has been treated of

For

this reason I

have confined myself to a few practical

Tables, and a short account of the arithmetical principles

of their construction.

These two Essays, are more

particularly intended for

manufacturers than operative weavers.

My
am

task being

now

finished, I have only to add, that I

his

perfectly

aware that every author, who lays

opinions before the public, voluntarily incurs the risk of

deserved censure for whatever

ous.

may be
I

trifling

or errone-

To

such censure, where due,

must, of course,

submit, and have only tu request such leniency as can-

dour may suggest, for the novelty of the undertaking?

and the
difficulties

attending

its

execution.

Glasgow, 2Sth March,

1808.

ESSAY
ON THE

I.

EAVING OF PLAIN CLOTH.

MATERIALS AND TEXTURE.

rT"1 HE substances
-*
cloth,
after being

chiefly used in the

flax,

manufacture of
These,

are wool, silk,

and cotton.

manufactured into yarn by various processes,

not within the plan of these Essays to inves-

which
tigate,

it

is

may be used, either separately, or two or more of them may be combined in the same fabric of cloth. The texture of all plain cloth is produced by the same
operation, and the only variation in the fabric, arises

from

the nature, and quality, of the materials employed.

The The

yarn, of

which every web

is

composed, consists of

two kinds,
first

either similar, or dissimilar, in their quality.

of these, called the warp, after undergoing

various preparatory processes,

which

shall

be noticed

afterwards,

is

wound upon

a cylinder

or

beam, and

stretched horizontally in the loom.

By

the operation of
is

weaving, the second, called the woof or weft,

across the former

thrown

and interwoven with

Fig. 1. Plate 4.
It is
is

it,

to

form the

texture or cloth.

a representation of
a large

the texture of plain cloth.

scale, to

drawn upon

show the

intersections of the

warp and

woofj,

Z
plainly and distinctly,

ESSAY

I.

and may be supposed

to be a pat-

tern of coarse cloth* of a thin fabric, as viewed throusrh to

<a

microscope or magnifying

glass.

In the different kinds

of yarn, used for the weaving of cloth, the fineness of

the thread
is

ascertained by the length, and weight, of

given quantities.
are different,
business.
in

The modes
the
several

of counting, however,

branches of the weaving

The

thickness of the fabric, of every species

of cloth, depends upon the proportion, which the fineness

of the yarn employed, bears to the

number of
also

splits,

or

intervals, contained in a certain length of the reed, in

which the

cloth

is

woven.

These

are differently

counted in different places, and in different species of

manufactures.
linen yarn
is

In Scotland, the fineness of woollen and

its size

generally called
its

or grist; and that of

is

cotton yarn,
called
its sett;
is

number

the measure of the reed

and the

art of proportioning these to

each

other,

called caaming or sleying.

As

the

investigation

of these

proportions

is,

more

properly, the business of the manufacturer, than of the operative weaver, a separate Essay shall be appropriated
for that part of the subject.

GENERAL EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES.

The

partsr,

of

which the various instruments, used

in

the manufacturing of cloth consist, are so numerous, and

are placed in so

many

different situations, that

it

seems

utterly impossible

by any

description,

however

elaborate,

or minute, to convey a just idea of their construction,

without the aid of representation.

impracticable, to

It

would be equally

make

a perspective

drawing of a warping

mill* or loom,, as they appear

from any point of view.

PLAIN WEAVING.
without concealing
others.

3
and distorting

many

essential parts,
I

For these reasons,

have adopted the modes of

representation used by engineers, architects,

artificers.

and other

These

are,
is

Istly,

Ground plans ;-where the spectator's eye

sup-

posed to be placed immediately above the object viewed,

and

at a

moderate distance from

Elevations; -where

it.

2dly,

objects are viewed as they

eye, in this case,
is

appear perpendicularly.

The

supposed

to be placed either in front, behind, or at one side, and

nearly on a level with the centre of the object viewed:

where the
the

first

of these occur, they are distinguished by

name

of front elevations; the second by that of back

elevations;

and the ihird are called

profile elevations.

3dly, Sections.These

may

be, either

on

a ground plan^

or in the same plane or direction with either of the three

kinds of elevations.

They are
to

used,

when a part of any object

are distinguished

must be supposed what

the
is

be cut away, in order to represent

it.

behind, or under

name of

horizontal sections ^
:

They when

by

they are in the same

direction as a ground plan

lateral or profile sections ,

sections;,

when

viewed from one side , and transverse

when viewed
all

from the

front, or

back of the object.

the parts

In plans, and drawings of this description,

are represented of their natural shapes,

and dimensions,

without the intervention of oblique, or perspective lines \

and those parts which are

circular, or

which

are farther

from the eye than others, are distinguished by deeper

shading.

In plans, where the end^ only, of any particular part

appears,
it

is
it,

distinguished,

by having diagonal

lines

drawn upon

which form

a resemblance, to the appear-

ance of the grain of cross cut wood.

ESSAY

I.

These modes of representation

are so well

known, by
hope, hownot appear

most mechanics, that the explanations here given of

them, may appear, to many, superfluous.
ever,
I

that

the

introduction of

them
I

will

altogether

unnecessary,

when

state,

that

although

common
single

in

many

other arts, I have never met with a

instance,

where such drawings have been used,

for the purpose of illustrating the construction of looms,

or any other branch of the art of weaving;

excepting,

plans of the drawing and cording of fancy patterns, which

may be

considered as horizontal sections of a loom.

Before proceeding to the description of the weaving

loom, and of the operation of weaving,

it

may be

proper

to consider the previous, and preparatory processes

which

the yarn undergoes.

WINBING.

The common
deliver
it

custom of spinners has been,

to reel the
state,
to.

yarn into hanks of a given length, and in this

for the

purpose of being made into cloth.

This process does not come within the compass of the

present Essay, although, the arts of spinning, and weaving,

which form the two

great divisions of labour, in fabri-

cating cloth from the

raw

material, are so intimately

art,

blended, that hardly any thing, analogous to the one

is

entirely foreign to the other.

At

present,

it

will

be

sufficient, to

consider yarn delivered in hanks, as the

material from

which cloth

is

made.
is

The

first

process, in linen and cotton yarn,

boiling

in the hank.

The

fibres of the former,

being long and

tenacious, require only to be freed from impurities

by
the

means of boiling water, and soap or

pot-ash.

To

PLAIN WEAVING.
latter,
its

a certain proportion of flour

is

added, to increase

firmness and tenacity.

When

these operations have

been performed,
dried,
to
it

and the

yarn has been thoroughly

it

is

wound upon bobbins j and

quantities of the yarn

is

customary

wind equal
is

upon each bobbin.

This

done, generally, by means of the

is

common bobbin
merely,

wheel, which

so well

known,

that
it.

it

has been thought

unnecessary to give a figure of

of a wheel, whose diameter

It consists,

is

about four feet, from

which

a spindle

is

driven,
is

by means of a band, and upon

fixed.

this spindle the

bobbin
is

The

yarn, to be

wound

upon the bobbin,

extended upon two small wheels,,

revolving on their centres, anid called whisks,

WARPING.

The
is
it

yarn, after having been

wound upon
is,

the bobbins,

delivered to the warper.

His business

again, to

wind

from those bobbins into a form, which will produce

the length and breadth of the

is

warp required.

The

length
is

a certain

and fixed measure, and the breadth

pro-

duced by the number of threads which he winds upon

.the

warping

mill.
it

In former times, and in a more rude

state of the art,

was the

practice in warping (which

is

merely stretching a given number of threads to equal

lengths), to fix plugs or pins in the side of a wall, at a certain distance.

The

operator, having the threads

rolled into clues, placed those
all

which compose the warp

clues in a box, or other vessel \ then fixing the ends of

the threads, to the plugs or pins at one end of the wall,

he took

all

the

threads

in

his

hand, and permitting

them

to slip

through his fingers, he went to the other

end, where he passed the yarn over the pins fixed there.

O
and then returned

ESSAY
to the former.

I.

This formed the length

of the web, and the breadth was

made

up, according to

the
the

number of times which he passed number of threads in his hand.

was found
to

in succession,

and

This custom, when the manufacture of cloth became

extensive,

be troublesome and

inefficient^

because, to produce a proper length, the operation must

have been performed, either

in the

open

air,

and subject
in a house,

to all the vicissitudes of weather, or if

done

the length of that house

must have been enormous.

rise

This,

probably?
mill: a

gave

to

the

invention of the
ip its construction^

warping

machine very simple

utility.

but of very great

WA&PING MILL.

The
it,

warping mill forms a

circle, or rather a
is

polygon

inscribed within a circle, and the yarn

in the

wound around

form of

a spiral, or screw,

by which means, a
in a small compass.

very great length

may be produced,

Warping

mills are constructed of different heights

and

circumferences,

according to the particular species- of

goods for which they are designed, or to the room which

they are to occupy.
in

plan and elevation of those, used

cotton

the manufacture of

goods,

will

sufficiently

illustrate the principle of their construction^,

and these

will be

found
1. is a

in Plate 1,

Fig.

ground plan, and Tig.

mill,

2. a profile elevation

of the
to the
a mill
is

common warping
same
is

and the same

letters refer

parts, in

both figures.
ells,

The circumference
1

of

generally five English

of 45 inches each, and

divided into 20 equal parts, of

each.

If inches, or of an

pll

The

mill

is

built

upon three horizontal frames,

PLAIN WEAVING.
such as represented
is

7
circular piece

at

A,

Fig. I.

The

of solid wood* with a square mortise

axis, in

in the centre^

through which passes a square

is

each end of which

pivot
^

an iron pivot or journal.

The lower

is

fitted in

a socket,

and the upper

in a

round hole or bush.

The

axis being placed perpendicular to the horizon, the mill

is

turned about by means of a trundle F, from which the

is

motion

communicated
its

to the mill,

by

a crossed

band

passing round
convenient.

circumference, as near to the floor as

or radii, of

The arms

which there

are 20,

are dovetailed into grooves in the centre piece

L, and

their extremities are mortised into the upright standards

which form the circumference of the

mill,

and which,

being exactly 11- inches asunder from centre to centre,

divide
that

circumference into 20 equal parts.

The

arms or

radii,

numbered from

to 20, appear very plainly

in Fig. 1.

but the standards at their extremities appear

are, therefore,

only as sections, and

diagonal lines, to give

distinguished

by

them the appearance of

cross cut

wood.

In Fig. 2. one half of the upright standards are

quite visible, and are

numbered from

to 10,

whereas

the arms and centre pieces are almost totally concealed.

Near the circumference, the arms are connected and kept

firm,

by round pieces of wood,

is

as represented in Fig. 1.
It

E
a

the heck, as

it

is

usually called.

consists

of

number, generally 120 or more, of

steel pins,

with a

round hole or eye in the upper end of each, through

which

a thread passes in the process of warping.

The
from

pins are placed, alternately, in

two frames

distinct

each other, and either of which

may be

raised at pleasure.
is

By

these means, .what

is

called the lease

formed.

The

lease is

most

essential in every stage of the operation of

weaving, as the whole regularity of the yarn in the loom

8
depends upon
it.

ESSAY
Fig. 3.
is

I.

a front elevation of part of

a heck, for the purpose of showing,

more

distinctly, the

way The

of lifting

the

alternate

threads,

when

required.

steel pins of the

heck ought to be very carefully

polished,

for the

sake of smoothness,

and should be

tempered hard, to preserve the inside of the eyes from

being soon worn, by the friction of the yarn passing

through them.

is

frame of wood, on the upper part of which are

fixed a convenient
direction,
is

number of

pins, in a perpendicular
:

and

at

equal distances

upon each of these pins

freely

a small pully of hard

wood, which runs

round

upon the

pin, as a loose axis.

These serve
it

to guide the

yarn upon the mill, and also to divide

called half gangs,

into portions

which

are

useful in the subsequent

operation of beamings as will be afterwards described.

On

the end of the frame

is

a square box, through

which passes
round.

a perpendicular post C,
slides up, or

upon which the

mill
is

whole frame D
This

down, when the

turned

is

effected,

by means of

a cord passing over

the pullies
mill.

N, and
and

fixed to the end of the axis of the

is

When

the mill

turned one way, the cord winds

round the

axis

raises the

frame

D; when

turned the
is

contrary way, the cord unwinds, and the frame

to sink.

allowed

Four small

rollers are generally placed in the

friction.

inside of the

box to diminish the

is

G,
bank.

Fig. 1.

a horizontal

section of the frame for

it is

containing the bobbins, or, as

commonly

called, the

By an
flat,

inadvertency,

it

has been represented as

straight or

but

it

ought to be of a circular form, that

the bobbin in a direction,

every thread

may unwind from

turns.

as nearly as possible, at right angles to the pin or axis

upon which the bobbin

G,

Fig. 2.

is

a profile

elevated section of the same*

PLAIN WEAVING.
Two
mill, in

9
pass between the

cross frames of

wood

and

upright standards which form the circumference of the

each of which are two smooth round pins, on

leases are formed.

which the
pins I
is

Near

to the

upper lease
is

another pin

M, upon which

the warp

turned.

The frame
require.

at I is fastened to the mill,

but that

at

K may-

be moved to any part,

It consists

as the length of the

warp may

of two parallel pieces of wood, con-

nected by a third, joined into the one and passing through

the other.

In the connecting piece

is

is

a mortise, into
fast

which a wedge or key

in

driven, to
it

make the frame

placed.

any situation in which

may be

OPERATION OF WARPING.

The number
thread

of bobbins which are to form the warp,

are placed in the bobbin frame or bank, so that every

may unwind from

the upper part of the bobbin.

The

threads are then passed successively through the

eyes of the heck, and the whole, being knotted together,

are fixed to the upper pin

M upon the mill.

One frame

The
I

mill

is

then turned slowly, until the upper lease pins at

nearly opposite to the heck.

come
is

of the heck

then
left

lifted,

and the warper passes the fore finger of his

hand through the space, formed between the threads

are lifted,

which

and those which remain stationary.

its

He
by

then sinks the frame which had been lifted to

lifts

former place, and

this

the other.

Into the space' formed

he inserts his thumb, and carefully places the

1;

yarn upon the two pins at

the

first

passing through

the interval kept by his fingers, and the second through

that kept

by

his

thumb.

Every alternate thread

is

is

thus

crossed,

and the upper lease

formed.

He now

divides

ESSAY
form what are

I.

his yarn into portions, as nearly as possible equal tc each

other, to

called half gangs.

These are
he arrives

kept distinct from each other, by passing along different

rollers

on the frame

(see Fig. 1.), until

at

the lower lease pins K.

Turning the

mill gradually
it

and

regularly round, he winds the yarn about

in a spiral

formed by the descent of the frame D,

pleted a

until

he has com-

number of

revolutions sufficient to produce the

ells),

length of his

web

(each revolution being five

and

then fixes the lower pins at the proper place.

Upon
by

these pins he turns his warp, forming another lease,

passing every division, or half gang of his yarn, alternately over

and under each

pin.

This lease

differs

from that

formed upon the upper pins only

instead of being formed
threads,
it

in this respect, that

by the crossing of the individual

is

produced by crossing the half gangs.

use of this
lease
is

As
lease

formerly stated, the

to

preserve

regularity in the operation of beaming.

The lower

being formed, the warper turns the mill in a contrary

direction until he arrives again at the top,

where he

opens his heck as before, and places his yarn upon the

upper pins; turns

his

warp upon the pin M, and repeats

upon the
this

the former process, until he has collected

mill

the quantity of warp required.

effected,

When

has been

he secures

his leases

by tying

a piece of

twine

round one half of the yarn upon each

his

pin, cuts

away

threads,
links
it
it

and drawing the warp gradually

into
a

off the

mill,

succession of loops called a chain,

forms

into a bunch,

and

in this state

it

is

delivered

to the weaver.

In this
is

consists the

whole operation

of warping.

It

an important part of the duty of a

warper, to be very careful that any threads which

may

be broken

in the process,

be immediately knotted, and

PLAIN WEAVING.
that the broken threads
others.
leases

11

may

not be crossed over the

He

ought

also, to take particular care that his

be placed correctly upon the pins, and

sufficiently

secured, before the

warp

is

taken off the mill.

The

modes of

calculation used to ascertain the quantity of

warp, will be investigated afterwards.

In the

mean time
is

we

shall

proceed to the next operation, which

BEAMING.

When
manner.

the weaver has received his

is -to

warp

in the chain y

his first care

wind

it

upon the beam

in a proper

Having ascertained the number of half gangs,

a small shaft of

and the breadth of the web, he passes

wood through
to this shaft

the interval formed by the last of the

lower pins upon the warping mill, and a small cord tied

through that formed by the

first.

This

gives

him

the lease for beaming,

and keeps the half

gangs

distinct.

When

this has

been done, and the cord

left

made

fast at

both ends of the shaft, the knotting

by

the warper must be cut, and the

warp stretched

to its

proper breadth.
is

An instrument
I

or utensil, called a ravel,

this,

then to be used.

have not given any figure of

also

partly for

want of room, and

because

it

differs in

nothing from a reed; excepting, that the intervals are

much

wider, and that the upper part

may be
are

taken

oF,

for the purpose of placing the half gangs in their re-

spective

places.

Ravels,

like

reeds,

of

different

dimensions, and one proper for the purpose being found,

every half gang
is

to be placed in an interval

between

two of the

pins.

The upper

part, or cape,

is

then put on

and secured, and the operation of winding the warp upon

the

beam commences.

Two

persons are employed to

12

ESSAY

r.

hold the ravel which serves to guide the warp, and to

spread
it

regularly

upon the beam; one or two

to keep

the chain, or chains, of the warp, at a proper degree of

tension,
centres.

and one or more to turn the beam upon

its

The warp

being regularly

wound upon
it

the

beam, the weaver next proceeds to take

heddles, and this operation
is

through the

called

DRAWING.

When

the

warp has been beamed, two rods

lease

are in*

serted into the

formed by the upper

lease

pins
tied
is

on the warping mill; the ends of these rods are

together, the twine

by which the

lease
its

was secured

cut away, and the warp stretched to

proper breadth.

The beam
dicularly.

is

then suspended by cords behind the heddles

and somewhat higher, the warp hanging down perpen*

The weaver then

places himself in front of

is

the heddles, and another person

placed behind.
it

The
is

former opens every heddle in succession, and

business of the latter to select every thread in

the

its

order,

and deliver

it

to be

drawn through the open heddle.

as every thread crosses

The

succession in which the threads are to be delivered

ascertained
it.

is easily

by the rods,

that next to

The warp,

after passing

through the

heddles,

is

next drawn through the reed by an instru-

ment

called a sky hook,

two threads being taken through

every interval. These operations being finished, the cords or mounting

which move the heddles

which

are applied;
is

the reed

is

placed in the lay, and the warp

portions,

divided into small

are tied to a shaft connected

by cords

to the cloth

beam.

The weaver then

dresses a portion

PLAIN WEAVING.
But before entering
it

13

of his warp, and commences the operation of weaving,

into the investigation of this process,

may be proper

to devote

some

attention to the con-

struction of the

WEAVING LOOM.

The
Fig.

most

essential

working parts of

this

machine are

represented in Plates 2. and 3.

1.

Plate 2.

is

ground plan, or rather a horizontal

j

section of a

common loom

for the upper part

must be

supposed to be entirely cut away, so low as the upper

shafts of the heddles

and upper

shell of the lay, for the

purpose of showing in their proper forms, those parts of

the loom, warp, and cloth,
Fig. 2. Plate 2.

which

are there represented.

may be

considered either as a profile

elevation, or as a profile section of the

same loom.
as they appear

All the parts are there represented

to a person standing at
parts,

one side of the loom, and manv

concealed or cut

away

in Fig.

1.

are seen very

are distinctly

plainly in Fig. 2. whilst

many

others

which

seen in Fig.

1. are,

of necessity, either partially, or totally

hid in Fig. 2.
Fig. 3. Plate 3.
is

a transverse

section of the

same
the

loom, as viewed from the front; for the cloth

lay,

roll,

and

all

the other parts in front of the heddles

must

be taken away, that the mounting and other parts contained in the figure

may be

seen.

The

lay

and reed,

which

are cut

away

in Fig. 3. are distinctly represented

in Fig. 4. Plate 3.

In

all

of these figures, the same part of the loom

is

constantly
thus,

marked by the same

letter of reference,

and
in

by comparing the

figures, every part is

shown

14
the various forms, in

ESSAY
which
it

I.

would appear when viewed

above, in front, or at one side.

It

has been deemed best, totally to omit the side and

cross frame

work of the loom, and

to exhibit only the

working, or moving parts.

reasons.
Firstly,

This has been done for two

Because the construction of the frames of

different,

looms are very

and the particular form

but

is

not

essential to the operation,

may be

varied according

to the fancy either of the

weaver or the loom wright.

and

The dimensions

also vary, according to the nature

is

breadth of the work for which the loom

intended.

The

strength of the different parts must depend entirely

to

upon the work

be performed; for

it

will

be obvious,

that the quantity of

wood

necessary to give sufficient

strength to the posts and sheeting loom,

rails

of a carpet, sailcloth, or

would prove

a useless incumbrance,

and

add an unnecessary weight, to one designed for the

weaving of
It
is

light fabrics of silk or muslin.

sufficient,

therefore,

in constructing the 'frame

it

work, that care should be taken to make

equivalent to the stress of the

of strength
to

work which

is

be per-

formed; that
joints tight

the' parts

should be accurately squared, the

and firm, and that the frame should be well

fitted to the

working

parts.

If these points are suffileast

ciently attained, the

most simple and

this,

expensive plan

of construction, must in

as in all other machinery,

prove invariably the best.

The second
that
it

reason for omitting the frame work

difficult, if

is,

would have been

not impossible, to

represent the working parts distinctly, without

tional drawings; because, in

many

addi-

most of the representations,

inter-

many

things

would have been concealed by the

PLAIN WEAVING.
Mention of different parts of the frame.

15
Had
additional

drawings been resorted

to,

the expence of this

work

must have been considerably augmented, without adding

almost any thing to
its

practical utility.

We

shall

now

proceed to explain the different figures

But,
1

contained in the Plates 2. and 3.

study contributes as

as division of

much

to the extension

and simpli-

fication of the scientific pursuits, as division of labour

does 0o those of their practical application, the principal

parts essential to the process of weaving, shall

be shortly
be of im-

enumerated

in the first place.

It

will then

portance to recapitulate them individually, and to enter

more

fully

and particularly into the investigation of each.

The following are the principal working parts of the common loom: A, the yarn beam or roll, upon which
the

warp

is

wound; B,

the rods

which keep the threads

of the warp in their respective places.

The

rods,

as

was formerly
form the
first

stated,

pass through the intervals

is

which

lease ; that

to say, a thread passes over the

rod and under the second: the next passes under

first

the

and over the second, and so on

alternately.

By
that
tion

this contrivance, every thread is kept distinct

from

on
in
is

either side of

it,

and

if

broken,

its

true situa-

the

warp may be

easily

and quickly found*

This

of such importance, that too

much
is

care cannot
lease.

be taken to preserve the accuracy of the

third rod divides the
sjjlitfuh; for
it,

The

warp

into

what

usually called

two

threads, alternately, pass over and under

also

and these two threads

betwixt the
of the
lines
1.

pass through the same

interval

splits

of the reed.

close in-

spection

which represent the threads of

the warp, in Fig.

Plate 2. will serve to illustrate

for the' lines

what
so as

has been stated above,

are

drawn

16
to

ESSAY
show
the

1.

the rods.

way in which each thread passes between The third rod is commonly, although impro=
is

perly, called the lease rod, for all the rods are lease rods,

and the preservation of the lease

using them.

the chief cause of

C, the heddles through which the warp

passes; and which,

by

raising

and sinking one half of the

the"

warp
weft.

alternately,

form the sheds or spaces, to receive

D,

the reed through which also the warp passes,

split,

two threads being drawn through every

interval j

or rather

and which, moving along with the

lay, strikes

home
rail

the weft to form the cloth.

H,

the lay mentioned

above, vibrating upon centres placed upon the upper

or cape of the loom,
II are the

boxes for receiving,

fly

and

KK the

drivers for giving

motion to the

shuttle:

LL,

the temples for stretching the cloth to a proper

breadth, and
the cloth
to

is

the cloth roll or

beam

for receiving

when woven.
cords, are
feet to

Below the heddles, and attached

two
treddles

them by

N, which

are

moved
is

by the weaver's

open the sheds;

The

shuttle

driven across by a motion communicated by the weaver's

right hand,

and the lay

is

moved, backward and forward,

by

his left: these are all the motions required.

Before proceeding further,

it

may now be proper

loom

to

notice shortly the different parts of the

sion,

in succes-

to

explain the nature of their construction, and

application to the purposes for

which they are intended.

YARN ROLL OR BEAM.

In constructing
this part of the apparatus, particular

care ought to be used to select

wood

perfectly sound*

and thoroughly seasoned.

Whilst the smallest moisture

it

remains in wood* no operation performed upon

can be

PLAIN WEAVING.
trusted.

17
beam

But

it is

absolutely necessary, that the yarn

of a loom should be, as nearly as possible, both perfectly

straight

and perfectly round. In proportion

to

any deviation

from

these, the

loom

will be defective,

and the deficiency

will prove injurious in proportion to the fineness of the

cloth to be woven.

It is, therefore,

of the utmost conse-

quence, that the

firmly driven

wood should be dry, and the iron axles into it before the beam is turned, and that

the turner should be particularly careful in the execution

of his part of the work.

tightness of the warp,
cloth, in so far as that

Upon
is

this

depends the uniform

and of course the quality of the

concerned.
It
is,

besides, of
if

the
the

first

consequence to the operative weaver, because

beam bends by

twisting, one side will be heavier than

the other, and oppose greater resistance to the threads of

the warp, which

may

cause

many

of them to be broken.

This greatly retards the work, for every operative weaver

will

be convinced, that he

may throw many

shots of

woof

sooner than he can knot one thread of warp.

The warp
means of

is

kept to a proper degree of tightness, by

a cord

rolled,

two or three times, round

one end of the yarn beam.

fixed to a lever
lever, the

One end
a joint at

of this cord

is

V, moving on

one end.

This

end of which only can be seen

at all in Fig. Is
is

in Fig. 2.

and

which does not appear

parallel to the
it,

beam, and directly under the back part of

cord passing from the lever to the beam,
perpendicular direction.
after passing

so that the
in a

may be

To

the other end of the cord,

is

round the beam,

fixed a weight

W.

heavier weight

is

then hung from the lever

to, or further

V, and
become
is

as this

weight

is

moved nearer

from the

centre of the lever, the tension of the

less

warp

will

or greater as

may be

needful.

This apparatus

Id
called a pace.

essay

i.

In heavy fabrics,

it

is

still

the general
a stout pin,

custom

to tighten the
is

warp by means of
staff.

which

called a bore

The

yarn

beam

of looms
is

constructed for heavy work, seldom has iron axles, but

merely rounded
a

at

each end.

In the end,

at the right

hand,

number of

holes are bored, into one of

is

which an end of

the bore staff

put, and the other end

is

drawn upwards

by

a cord, until the

warp

is

sufficiently tight.

RODS.

As mentioned

before, the principal use of the rods

is

to preserve the lease.

When

any threads of the warp

are broken, great care ought to be taken to have

them
ne*

returned into their proper places.

glected, the
difficulty,

When
The

this is

warp

gets into confusion,

and great trouble,

rods are

and

loss of

time ensue.

made

of hard wood, and should be well smoothed, to prevent

them from catching

or

breaking the warp: the two

front ones are of a circular form; the third, or lease rod,

is flat,

and broader than the others, which

is

convenient

in the process of dressing the warp, as will be afterwards

described.

The

rods are kept at an uniform distance

either

from the heddles,

by tying them together, or by a

small cord with a hook at one end, which lays hold of

the front rod, and a weight at the other which hangs

over the varn beam. i

HEDDLES.

To weave
really

plain cloth, only

two

leaves of heddles are

necessary; ,but in fine webs, where

many

threads
re-

are contained in the warp, the

number of heddles

PLAIN WEAVING.
quired would be so great, that they would
together,
strain the
"be

19
crowded
and

which would cause unnecessary

warp.
used,

friction,

For

this reason, four leaves are

universally

except

in

very

coarse

work.

now The

heddles are

made

of stout level twine, and are connected

together by

cords

above and below,

to

which each
thin

heddle
flat

is

fastened.

shafts of

They are then stretched on two The upper edges of these wood.
at

four

shafts are represented in Fig. 1. at C,

and the sections

or ends of

them

C. Fig. 2. where the front leaves

appear raised, and the back leaves sunk, for opening the
shed through which the shuttle passes.
clasped
these,

For plain work,

representation of
1.

heddles

are

chiefly
is

used:

upon

a larger scale,
is

given in Fig.

Plate 3.

where the heddle twine

represented by double lines,

for the purpose of showing

parts cross each other.
tion in

how

the upper and lower

The

cross line

shows the direc-

which every thread of the warp passes through

For many kinds of work, the heddles are
with
eyes.

the heddle.

constructed
Fig. 2.
in

One

of

these

is

shown

in

which

will also explain,

is

by inspection, the way

which the twine

knotted to form the eye.

The

apparatus by which the heddles are supported cannot be

represented in Fig.

1.

Plate 2. that being a plan of the

as seen

working parts of a loom,

from above.

In the

profile section, Fig. 2. all the connections appear,

although

m that view,

only the ends of the

wooden
3.

parts, except

the treddles, can be shown.

In Fig.

Plate 3.

which

is

an elevated section as seen from the front, they are distinctly

seen,

and will render the construction of the

whole very apparent.

On
levers

the upper side rails of the

loom, rests the heddle bearer S, stretching across the

loom.

From

this

two

are suspended

by cords.

20
From one end

ESSAY

I.

of these levers are

hung

the jacks F, and

from each end of these jacks pass the cords which connect them with the upper heddle shafts. The cord
connecting one end of each jack with the heddles,
fixed to the first
is

and second

leaf,

and that connecting

leaf.

the other end, to the third and fourth

Under

the

heddles are two

spring staffs
shafts.

Q, suspended by
These
joints,

cords

from the under heddle

the

are connected with

two marches R, which move upon

and these

marches are again connected with the two treddles,

from which the whole motion

end of the lever

is

derived.

The

other

is

connected by a small cord with

the under heddle shafts, and this end rests in a small

notch, fixed to the side frame of the loom.

When

the

heddles are to be pushed back, the levers are relieved

from the notches: the weaver then presses down the

upper
shafts,

by means of the small cords; the under

shafts are at the

same time

raised,

and thus the heddles

are slackened to ease the warp.

When

heddles with

eyes
jacks

are

used, this apparatus

at

is

unnecessary, and the

may

once be hung from the heddle bearer as in

is

Fig. 2.

Another way of easing the heddles

practised.

now,

most generally,
lifted

The lower

links, or doups, are

by small rods, and the heddles

lay.

are

pushed back by

moving the
thread

In drawing the warp through the heddles, the

is

first

drawn through the fourth leaf, the second through

the second, the third through the third, and the fourth

through the front.

When

it

becomes necessary

in the

after process, occasionally to

draw out the

rods, their

places

may be

recovered in the following manner: by

raising the third

and fourth

leaves,

and sinking the

is

first

and second, the place of the second rod

given, and

by

PLAIN WEAVING.
reversing this,
first

21
By
raising the

we

find that of the

first.

and third

leaves,

and sinking the second and fourth,

we

obtain the place of the lease rod.

LAY AND REED.

Fig. 4. Plate
3. is

an elevation of the lay and reed,

taken from the front,

parts,

and exhibits very plainly those

imperfectly seen,

which are
and

either concealed or

in the plan

profile Figs. 1.
:

and
is

2. Plate 2.

The

parts

of the lay are as follow

the sole, or under shell

a groove to receive the

of the lay, in which there

is

lower edge of the reed D.

is

the upper shell, in

which

also
it is

is

a groove for the

its

upper edge of the reed, by

which

kept in

place,

bb are the two swords of

from the rocking
tree

the lay,

which

are suspended

by means of cords
and
4. Plate 3.

cc, as represented in Figs. 2. Plates 2.

When
By

the pins at dd are turned round,

they twist the suspending cords, which of course be-

come
a

shorter.

these means, either end of the lay

it

may be

elevated or depressed at pleasure, to bring

position.

into

proper working

Instead
is

of these

cords,

screws are sometimes used, which

certainly a steadier,
II are

though

more expensive

plan.

The boxes

con-

structed of a proper size to receive the

is

fly shuttle,

which

driven from either, by pulling forward the driver K,

sliding freely

on the polished spindle

it

then passes

along the race rod g with great velocity, and lodges in

the opposite box.

The

drivers are

moved by

the cords

ee fastened to the handle h,

which the weaver moves

with his right hand, as before mentioned.

In weaving light fabrics of cloth, the upper rib of the
reed
is

not confined in the upper shell of the lay, but a

22
light shaft of

ESSAY
wood with
is

I.

groove

is

used,

To

each end

of this shaft

fixed, at right angles, a thin flat piece of easily

wood, which springs

backward and forward.

The

extremities of these pieces are nailed to the back of the

swords of the

lay,

and a cord

is

tied

round both, lower

down, by which the degree of spring may be regulated.

The upper

rib of the reed is received into this groove,

and the upper

perfectly free

shell of the lay is

supported above

it,

but

from

it,

and serves merely

lay.

as a rest for the

weaver's

left

hand

to

work the
the weft
is

By this

contrivance,

the reed yields

when

driven up, and diminishes

the danger of making the cloth too thick.

are called flyers.
is

These machines

In

still

lighter goods, a woollen cord

it

stretched very tight between the swords, and to

rib of the reed
is tied.

the

upper

It

is

also
is

common

to use

a double set of flyers,

one of which

above, and the

other under the reed.

The
splits,

reed consists of two ribs, between which are the

through each interval of which two threads of the

are drawn, in plain weaving.

warp

The
and

splits

of the reed

generally consist of thin pieces of split reed or cane,

from whence both the names

It
is

reed

split

are derived.

now, however, very common

to

use brass,

and

sometimes
ever

steel wire, rolled flat for this purpose.

What-

may be

the substance used, care must be taken to

have the

splits

equal in length, breadth, and thickness,

and very smooth.

The

regularity of the cloth depends

if

much upon
the

the former, and

the latter

is

neglected,
injured.
flat,

warp
splits

will

be frequently

much broken and

The

of a reed ought not to be perfectly

but

thicker in the middle and tapering to either edge.

This

not only diminishes the friction on the warp, but will

PLAIN WEAVING.
allow any
small

23
much
easier,

knot or lump to pass

without breaking the thread.

The
set

fineness, or, as
is

it

is

called

among weavers,
splits
is

the

of a web,

determined by the number of

of the

reed in a given length.

into hundreds,

In Scotland, the reed

divided

and these hundreds again into

five parts,

each containing

20

splits,

which

are

called

porters.

Formerly, different lengths were used for different fabrics

a reed for working holland
in length; for linen

was considered

to

be 40 inches

37 inches; and for cambric 34 inches;

in these respective
It is

and the number of hundreds contained

lengths,

was

called the set of the reeds.

probable,

that these lengths

owed

their origin to the breadths of

which
cloths.

it

was customary

to

weave these

different kinds of

The 40 and 34

inch reeds are

now

very

little

used, and the 37 inch, or linen reed, has been universally

adopted in the cotton manufacture.

The

cause of this seems to be founded upon consider*all

ing a yard of 36 inches as a proper standard, and as

cloth shrinks considerably in the breadth, the additional

inch was, probably, allowed for

of cloth
is

this.

But the shrinking

cloth of a

very different in various fabrics:

stout thick texture, requires a

much

greater allowance

than light thin goods.

is,

The

additional quantity of

Warp

therefore, allowed

by the manufacturer,
web, and
this
is

in proportion

to

the quality of the

regulated by

observation and experience.

ell is

The

length of the Scotch

37 inches, and

it,

probably, bears this proportion to

the English yard of 36 inches, for a similar reason.

In Lancashire and the adjoining counties, where the

manufacture of cotton goods, chiefly of thick fabrics,

carried to very great extent, a
reeds, different

is

mode

of counting their
is

from any of those above mentioned,

24
in use.

ESSAY
which they

I.

Their reeds are divided into portions of 19

call

splits

each,

bares >
is

and the number of these

contained in 24 inches,

called the

number of the

reed.,
is

comparative Table, of the English and Scotch reeds,

to this

added

work, by which the one

may be

brought,

nearly, to agree

with the other.

TEMPLES.

The

temples, by which the cloth

is

kept extended

during the operation, consist of two pieces of hard wood,

with small sharp points in their ends, which lay hold of

the edge, or selvage, of the cloth at either side.

These
they can

pieces are connected by a cord, passing obliquely through

holes, or notches, in each piece.

By

this cord,

be lengthened or shortened, according to the breadth of

the web.

They

are kept

flat

after the cloth is stretched,

by

a small bar turning

on a centre.
1.

Their form will

appear very plainly at L, in Fig.

seen at L, in Fig. 2.

Plate 2.

One end

is

CLOTH ROLL, OR BEAM.

Behind

the temples

is

the

roll,

or

beam M,

for reroll,

ceiving the cloth

when woven.

This, like the yarn

true.

ought to be well seasoned, and turned very

one end of
it

On

is

a ratchet wheel, in

which

rests a catch

to hold against the pace, or balance weight,

on the yarn

beam, and keep the cloth

been wrought up

tight.

When

the

warp has

as near to the heddles as

can be done

conveniently, the weaver shifts forward the temples, rolls

up a proper quantity of

cloth,

which unwinds an equal

roll
j

length of warp from the yarn

then

shifts

back the

PLAIN WEAVING.
and proceeds with
a
bore.

25
called drawing

rods and heddles, until the latter hang perpendicular,

his weaving.

This

is

In weaving thick and bulky fabrics of cloth, there

generally a cross

is

where the cloth

and the beam

beam beam

of wood, called the breast beam,

is

represented in the figure,

itself is

placed below.

The

cloth passes
cloth

over the breast beam, before being received on the

beam.

SHUTTLE AND

PIRN.
generally boxwood,

The
flat

shuttle

is

made of hard wood,

at

and tipped with iron

each end, and on one side are

pieces of wire, to diminish the friction on the reed.

It

runs upon two small wheels, or rollers, of iron, hung

in centres.

Within

is

the bobbin, or pirn,

upon which the

thread

weft

is

wound

in the

form of a cone.

The weft

escaping

from the pirn, passes through a small eye,

generally of glass, fixed in the side of the shuttle next to

the cloth.

The

pirn

is

fixed

upon

a screw in the hollow,

or box, of the shuttle, and

Fig. 8. Plate 3.
is

may be

taken out at pleasure.

a representation of both.

In the woollen, and cotton manufactures, the use of the

fly shuttle is
it is still

almost universal: but in the linen, and

to pass the shuttle through the

silk,

common

warp
are

by the weaver's hand.

other apparatus,

The

boxes, drivers, spindles, and

fly

used for driving the

shuttle,

unnecessary in working by the hand, and would, indeed,

be incumbrances.
lay and shuttle
is

The

construction

of the

common

so universally

known,

that I have not

thought

it

necessary to give figures of theme

26

ESSAY

IV

OPERATIONS OF WEAVING.

When
and
all

warp has been properly placed

in the loorrr>
it

the machinery requisite for weaving

into cloth

has been added, the business of the operative weaver,

depends more upon care and attention, than upon manual

dexterity.

Silken and woollen warps, which are animal

little
it is

substances, require

preparation after being put into

the loom.

In these

only necessary for the weaver,

occasionally, to clear his

warp behind the

rods, and to

pick

off,

or pare away, any knots or

lumps upon the yarn,

through the

which might present obstructions

heddles or reed.

in passing

The
the

clearing of the
is

warp

is

generally done with a

it;

Comb, which

drawn gently through

in

the teeth of

comb being kept

an oblique direction, in order to

avoid breaking the warp

itself.

when any
is

obstruction presents

For the operations of picking and paring the

used.

warp, a pair of small sheers

These operations

are equally necessary in warps spun from the vegetable

substances, flax and cotton.

But they require besides,

for the

a
,.

further preparation to
this is called

fit

them

purpose of weaving:

DRESSING.

This
cotton;

operation

is

justly esteemed of the first import-

ance, in the art of weaving warps spun from flax or

for
it

is

impossible to produce

work of

good

quality, unless care be used in dressing the warp.

The

use of dressing

is,

to
it

give

to

yarn sufficient

strength, or tenacity, to enable

to bear the operation of

all

weaving into

cloth.

It^

also,

by laying smoothly

the

PLAIN WEAVING,
ends of the
fibres,
is

27
material,

which compose the raw

from

which the yarn

spun, tends both to diminish the fric-

tion during the process, and to render the cloth smooth,

and glossy, when finished.

use for
dressing,
is

The

substance in

common
vegetable

simply a mucilage

of

matter boiled to a consistency in water.

and sometimes potatoes, are the

employed.

Wheat flour, substances commonly

These answer

sufficiently well in giving to

the yarn both the smoothness and tenacity required; but the great objection to

them

is,

that they are too easily

and rapidly affected by the operation of the atmosphere.

When
air,

dressed yarn

is

allowed to stand exposed to the

for

any considerable portion of time, before beinginto cloth,

it

woven
some
This

always becomes hard,

It is
is

brittle,

and

comparatively inflexible.
to weave,

then tedious and trouble-

and the cloth

rough, wiry, and uneven.

.effect is chiefly

remarked in dry weather, when the

it

weavers of

fine cloth find

indispensibly necessary to

have their yarn wrought up, as speedily as possible, after

being dressed.

To

counteract this inconveniency, herring

or beef brine, and other saline substances,

which have

tendency, to attract moisture, are sometimes mixed in

small quantities

with the dressing

but

this

has not
probably,,

proved completely and generally successful;

because the proportions have not been sufficiently attended

to,

and because

superabundance of moisture

is

equally

prejudicial with a deficiency.

Indeed, the variation of

the moisture of the air

it

is

so great

and so frequent, that

fix

appears

difficult,

if

not impossible, to

any general,

not to say universal rule, -for the quantity to be mixed.

It is

stated as a fact,

which

will appear singular to

weavers in this country, that in India the process of

weaving, even their finest muslins,
is

conducted in the

28
open
air,
is

ESSAY
and exposed to
intense.
all

I.

the heat of the climate*

which

We
day.
I

know

well that this would be

impracticable with fine

work

in this country, even in

an

ordinary

summer

have never been able to procure

any accurate account of the substance, which the Indian

weavers employ for dressing their warps.
It,

certainly,

would prove of important

this

benefit to the manufactures of

investigated
in

country,

were

this

satisfactory

manner.
Neither does
it

appear that this subject, which

is

of

much

importance, has hitherto attracted the attention

it

of scientific men, or that

has been treated in an acIt,

curate or philosophical manner.

however, opens a

wide

field

for chemical investigation,

and promises to

prove equally useful to mankind, and lucrative to the

person
It

who may succeed in supplying the desideratum. may be necessary to resume the consideration of this
by power, and
shall

part of the subject, in treating of weaving

dressing by machinery.

At

present,

we

proceed

with a short account of the

common manual

process.

When

the warp, previously dressed, has been wrought

is

up, as far as can be done conveniently, the weaver

obliged to suspend the operation of weaving,

and to

prepare a fresh quantity of warp.

It is

necessary to stop,

when

the dressed

warp has approached within two or

three inches of the back leaf of the heddles, that

room

may be
first

allowed to join the old dressing to the new.

is

The
or

operation, as in wool and silk,

to clear the warp,

roll,

with the comb, from the lease rod to the yarn

beam.

The
is,

proof that this operation has been properly

executed
their

by bringing back the rods, successively, from

roll.

working situation to the

When

this has

been

done, the two rods nearest to the heddles, are drawn out

PLAIN WEAVING.
.of

29

the

warp

to

one

side,

and the

lease rod only remains.

to

The

next duty of the weaver

is,

examine the yarn

about to be dressed, and carefully to take away every

knot, lump, or other obstruction, which might impede
the progress of the work, or injure the fabric of the
cloth.

This being performed, he proceeds

to apply the

substance used for dressing, which should be rubbed

gently, but completely, into the

whole warp, by means

of two brushes used in succession, one of which he holds

in each hand. to divide the

He

then raises the lease rod on one edge,

sets the air in

warp, and

motion by moving

a large fan, for the purpose of drying the

warp which
opera-

has been dressed.

tion, to

It is

proper in

this stage of the

draw one of the dressing brushes

lightly over the

warp

at intervals, in order to prevent

arise

any obstruction,

which might

by the threads, when agitated by the

fan, cohering, or sticking to each other, whilst in a

state.

wet
very

"Whenever the warp

is

is

sufficiently dried, a
it,

small quantity of grease

is

brushed over
side,

the lease rod

again placed upon

its flat

and cautiously shifted

forward to the heddles. The other rods are then put again
into their respective sheds,

and the process

is

finished.

WEAVING.

The
The

operation of dressing the warp being finished,

the weaver again

resumes that of forming the

cloth.

operations required, are only three, and these are

very simple:
1st.

Opening the

sheds

in the

warp, alternately, by

pressing the treddles with his feet.

2d.

Driving the shuttle through each shed,

opened.

This

is

performed by the right

when hand, when

30
the
fly

ESSAY
shuttle
is

J.

used, and by the right and left hand,

alternately, in the

common
it

operation.

3d. Pulling forward the lay, to strike

home

the woof,

and again pushing

done by the
left

back nearly to the heddles.

fiy,

This

is

hand with the

way.

and by each hand,

successively, in the old

In describing operations so simple and uniform,

neither easy nor necessary, to go

it

is

much
place,

into detail.
to

It

may be
fall,

useful, however, in this

notice the
are apt to

mistakes, into

which unexperienced weavers

and the defects, and inconveniences, which these

mistakes occasion.

TREADING.
In the treading of a web, most beginners are apt to
apply the weight, or force, of the foot

much too

suddenly.

The bad consequences

cularly felt in

attending this mistake, are partifine or

weaving

weak

yarn.

In weaving, as

in every other

branch of mechanics, the resistance, or

reaction,

is

always nearly as great as the moving power,

it

or force,

which

is

necessary to apply.

From

this

it

follows, that the

body of the warp must

sustain a stress,
is

nearly equal to the force, with which the weavers foot

applied to the treddle.

Besides this, every individual

the friction, occasioned by the

thread

is

subjected to

all

heddles, and splits of the reed, between which the threads

pass,
rising

and with which they are generally in contact when

and sinking.
as yet,

But the

art of spinning

has not

been

and probably never can be brought to such

a degree of perfection, as to

make every thread capable

It is

of bearing

its

proportion of this stress equally.

equally confirmed, both by mathematical demonstration,

PLAIN WEAVING.
and by practical experience, that when any body
be moved with increased velocity,
greater
it is

SI
is

to

necessary to exert

power

to

move

it;

and
this

as the resistance increases

in proportion to the

power,

sudden application of the

pressure of the foot to the treddle, must cause a proportional increase of the stress

upon the warp, and

is

also of

the friction.

Now,

as

it

impossible to

make every
than

thread equally strong, and equally tight, those which are

the weakest, or the tightest, must bear
their equal proportion of the stress.

much more

This causes them

to

be broken very frequently, and, even with the greatest

attention,

more time

is

lost in tying

and replacing them,

than would have been sufficient for weaving a very considerable quantity into cloth.

But

if

the weaver, from

inattention, should continue the operation, after one or

more threads
worse.

are broken, the

a thread has

consequence will be

still

When

been broken,

it

no longer

retains its parallel situation to the rest, but crossing over

or between those nearest to

it,

either breaks
:

them

also,

or interrupts the passage of the shuttle

it

most frequently

does both.

The same
the

reasons will sufficiently prove the error of

another opinion, too

common among
This

weavers, especially
is,

younger part of them.

that

greater

quantity of

work
is

will

be produced,

in

proportion as
rapidity.
It is

every motion

performed with increased

unquestionably true, that time will be lost by conducting the operations too slowly:
that there
is

but

it

is

equally true^
it

a rate of velocity,

beyond which

is

im-

prudent to accelerate the motions of a loom.

What
it

the precise rate of this velocity ought to be, has not,

as
I

believe,

been correctly ascertained.

Indeed,

must vary considerably, according

to the breadth of the

82

ESSAY
fabric,

I,

web, the nature of the

materials.

and the strength of the

Instead, therefore, of giving precise rules of motion,,

I shall

here insert a few calculations of the quantities of

work, which may be produced by uniform and incessant

motion, at rates usually reckoned slow.
In a | cotton shawl,
let
it

the

warp be 1000, and the

web,
produce

weft

at the rate of

1200:

will follow, that the shuttle

must be driven 2400 times

one square yard of
cloth.

across the

to

Now

if this is

done 60 times

per minute, the whole will be completed in 40 minutes,

supposing no time to be
allow one
tying
fifth

lost.

But, as this

is

impossible,

of the whole time to be occupied in

threads,

changing
still

pirns,

and

other

necessary

operations, and
in

the yard of cloth will be completed

50 minutes.
Again, in a 1200 | web [even wefted),
let

the time of

weaving

a yard in lengthy

be computed

at

the rate of

40

shots per minute*,

fifth part

this,

with the former allowance

of one
in an

of the time for stopping, will be done

hour and 15 minutes.

Yet every weaver more

will be'

satisfied, that

looms, regularly and constantly wrought

cloth,

at

the above rates, will produce

than

is

generally effected even by the most rapid motions.

No

allowance

is

made here
is

for the time

employed

in

dressing, because this

supposed to be the same, whether

is

the operation of weaving

performed quickly or slowly.

are confirmed

These
tical

illustrations,

which

by the prac-

observation of every experienced weaver, will be

for the present.

sufficient

The

subject will be

more

fully discussed,

when we come

to investigate the

methods

of weaving by power, and of dressing whole webs by the

aid of machinery.

PLAIN WEAVING.
CROSSING
This,
like the

33

THE SHUTTLE.

former motion, ought to be performed

with a regular and uniform velocity.

In every kind of weaving, and especially in thin wiry
fabrics,

much

of the beauty of the cloth depends upon

stretched.
it

the

woof being well

But

if

the motion of the

shuttle be too rapid,

is

very apt to recoil, and thus to

slacken the thread.

to break the

It

has also a greater tendency either

woof

altogether, or to
if

unwind

it

from the

pirn in doubles, which,

regularity of the fabric.

not picked out, destroy the

of muslins and thin

The woof
woven

cotton goods,
state.

is

generally

into the cloth in a

wet

This tends to lay the ends of the

its

fibres of the

cotton smooth and parallel, and

that of dressing of the warp.

effect is similar to

The

person

who winds
it

the

woof upon

the pirn, ought to be very careful that

be

well built, so as to
those used in the

unwind

freely.
is

The

best shape for

fly shuttle,

that of a cone;

and the

thread ought to traverse freely, in the form of a spiral or screw, during the operation of winding.

The same
bobbins,
is

wheel, used for winding the warp upon

fit

also

for

winding the weft.

It

only requires

a spindle of a different shape, with a screw at

one end,
so con-

upon which the pirn

is

fixed.

The wheel

is

structed, that the spindles

it

may be

easily shifted, to adapt

for either purpose.

STRIKING HOME THE WOOF.

That the
thickness,
it

fabric
is

of the

cloth

may be uniform
In the

in

necessary that the lay should be brought

forward with the same force every time.

common

34

ESSAY

I.

operation of weaving, this regularity must be acquired

by' practice.
It
is,

however, of consequence to the

weaver, to mount his loom in such a manner, that the

range of the lay
of his cloth.

may be in As the lay

proportion to the thickness

swings, backward and forits

ward, upon centres placed above,

to that of a

motion

is

similar

pendulum.

Now

the greater the arc, or

range, through which the lay passes, the greater will be

its

effect,

in driving

home

the weft strongly, and the

thicker will be the fabric of cloth, in so far as that

depends upon the weft.

For

this reason,

in

weaving

coarse and heavy goods, the heddles ought to be

at a greater distance

hung
is

from the point where the weft

in light
last"

struck up, than

point,

would be proper

work.

The
The

or rather line, where the

is

wrought shot of
fell.

weft

struck up,

is

called

by weavers the

pivots,

upon which the

at

lay vibrates, ought, in general,

to

be exactly

equal distances from a line drawn perfell,

pendicular to the

and one drawn perpendicular to

the heddles, and between these

fell
is

two

lines.

But

as the

constantly varying
it

in its

situation,

during the

operation,
is

will

be proper to take the medium.

fell will

This

the place where the

be,

when

a bore is half

wrought up.
also

From this, the following conclusion may The bores ought always to be short in be drawn
:

weaving

light

goods

*,

for the less that the extremes vary

will

from the medium, the more regular

swing, of the
lay.

be the

arc, or

The

result of

what has been

stated above

is,

that in

each of the three operations of weaving, the motions

ought to be constant and uniform; and that they should

follow

each other in regular succession.

But some

observation will be necessary, to adapt these to different

species of cloth.

PLAIN WEAVING.
The
the closeness of their texture;

35

beauty, or excellence, of some cloths, consists in

that of others, in the

openness, and regularity of the intervals between the

threads.

When

the

latter

of these

is

required,

the

weaver must vary

his process,

from that which would

be proper in the former.

The extreme

tightness

of the
is,

weft,
to a

is

a principal

excellence in open goods, and

certain degree,

necessary in the others, but by no means to the same

extent.

Two

alterations are, therefore, necessary, in the

formation of such fabrics.

The

first is in

the mounting

of the loom; the second in the operation.

to Fig. 2. Plate 2.
it

By

referring

will appear, that the threads of the

to the cloth

warp pass from the yarn beam

beam, upon
.the

a level, or horizontal, straight line.

Consequently,

half of the

warp which

rises,

and the half which

sinks,

will deviate equally

from

a straight line,

and be equally

stretched*

When

this is the case, the threads of

warp

which pass through the same

interval in the reed, will

appear close together in the cloth, with a vacancy between

them and those next

yarn

to

them, which vacancy

splits in the reed.

is

caused
if

by the intervention of the

But

the

beam

is

raised considerably above the level of the

heddles, the warp,

straight line,

when and when

at rest, will

no longer be

in a

the shed

is

opened, the half

of the warp which descends, will be

tighter than the half

drawn considerably

which

rises.

Thus, each half will

this
is,

be slack alternately, and the consequence of

the

that

warp spreads
splits

in the cloth,

and the intervals caused

by the

of the reed, are no longer discernable.

is

The former
in thin

of these ways of placing the beam,

latter in thick.

practised

work, the

When

the weft has been thrown across the warp, i

36
the fabric the shed
is

ESSAY
Is

I.

thin, the lay

is

brought home rather before

closed, in order that the weft

may be
is

struck

up

as tight as possible.
is

But

in

weaving thick goods, the

applied.

shed

closed before the motion of the lay

this,

In consequence of

the threads of the warp, to a

certain degree, slacken the weft, and give a closer ap^

pearance to the cloth.

the weft
is

In weaving thick cotton goods,

inserted in a dry state,

when

the fabric

is

wanted
It

to appear very close. to notice the defects

may, now, be proper

which
to

most commonly occur

in the

weaving of cloth, and

explain the causes from which these arise.

When, from any

woven with
cloth,

cause, the weft

is

not regularly inter-

the warp, a deficiency must happen in the

is

which

called

by weavers a

scobb.

This may
is

proceed from several causes: the most frequent,

some

obstruction in the warp, which prevents any portion of

it

from

rising

or sinking regularly,

when

the shed

is

formed; of course, the shuttle, instead of passing

fairly

between the threads of the warp, passes

under the portion which
that place,
is is

either over or

obstructed, and the weft, at

not at

all

interwoven with the warp.

if

knot or lump upon the warp,

dressing, will often obstruct

not picked away in the

or three threads, and

two

form

a small scobb.

When

the weaver, from inattention,

continues to weave, after a thread of warp has been

broken,

it

very frequently crosses between a number of

it,

the threads nearest to

and, by obstructing the shed

Scobbs are also

in that place, will cause a large scobb.

sometimes- produced by the lay being too low hung, but

this is

more frequent
fly.>

in

weaving with the hand shuttle

than with the

near the
list,

In this case, the scobbs are always

or selvage, of the cloth.

PLAIN WEAVING.

37

A
the

second fault in cloth

of zjisp..

is is

known, among weavers, by

most frequent
in light fabrics,

name
is

This

and

occasioned by any particular thread of weft not

rest.

being struck up so close as the

Jisps are very

frequently occasioned by defects, either in the construction or

mounting of the loom.

If either the yarn

beam

or cloth

beam

are not turned very true, jisping will be

unavoidable.

Or
is

if

either the heddles, or the lay,

be not

hung

parallel to the

beams, the same defect will ensue.

If the

loom

correctly

made and mounted,

this is

the fault

must be with the weaver, and

only to be sur-

mounted by

attention and practice.

faults in

The
If

other

cloth,

generally proceed from

inattention in the

management of the warp or weft.

drawn through
either the

threads

are inaccurately

heddles or the reed, the defect will be apparent in the

cloth.

There

is

nothing which adds more to the beauty of

cloth of every description, and about

are

which good weavers

In

more

solicitous, than a tight

uniform selvage.

order to produce this, the warp must be dressed, even

with greater care than what

the web.

is

necessary in the middle of

The

tightness of the weft, also, contributes

It is,

materially to the beauty of the selvage.

sometimes,

the custom, to

warp

few

splitfuls at

each selvage, with

In
is,

coarser yarn than the

body of the web.

many
to

kinds

of cloth, however, the

common

practice

draw the
is,

threads which form the selvage, double.

That

to

draw two threads through each heddle.

The

threads,

which form the warp of the

rest,

selvages,

being coarser than the

and, also, being

more drawn
splits

towards the middle of the web, by the weft, the

the reed, through

of

which they

pass, are apt to be

worn

38
much

ESSAY
sooner than the others.
if

I.

A weaver
is

should carefully

attend to this, for

the reed

injured, the

work cannot
the

be good.

When
in

cane reeds are used, and

are, generally, of the to

when

webs
it

wrought
is

them

same breadth,

now
It
is

very

common

make

those splits, through

which

the warp of the

selvages passes, of brass.

unnecessary to enumerate further, the defects

in the

v/hich

may occur

weaving of

cloth, for

no

instruct-

ions can altogether supply the want of that

is

skill,

which

only to be attained by practical experience.

CALCULATIONS AND TABLES.

As we have

confined this Essay, solely, to the operative

part of the art of weaving, reserving

what

is

properly

the business of the manufacturer for future investiga-*

tion,
it is

only necessary to introduce, in this place, such

calculations and tables, as

may be
to

useful to the operative

warper and weaver.

When

the yarn,

which

is

form a warp,
it is

is

delivered

to the warper,

upon bobbins,

usual to give him, at

the same time, a ticket, or slip of paper, specifying the

length of the web, and

each.

its

breadth, in porters of 20 splits

this, his
first

When

he has received

duty

is

to

calculate

how many

revolutions

of

the

mill

will
is

be
a

necessary, to produce the length required.

This

very simple operation, being nothing more than dividing

the

number

of

ells

in the

warp, by the number of

mill.

ells

produced by one revolution of the

length of a warp
the mill 5
ells, it

Thus,

if

the

is

100

ells,

and the circumference of

will be obvious, even to a person little

acquainted

with arithmetic,

that

20 revolutions

will

produce the length required.

If an

even number of

PLAIN WEAVING.
revolutions does not produce
difference can be easily counted, each interval

39

the length required, the

between
mill,

the standards,

which form the circumference of the

ell,

being | of an
is

as formerly stated;

Thus,
ells,

if

warp

76-| ells,

15 revolutions produce 15

and con-

tinuing to turn the mill until the

warp has passed over

7 intervals more, 1|

ells

will

be added to the length,

it

making

in

all

76|.

To

the length of the warp,

is

necessary to add

an allowance for the thrum.

The
fell

thrum

is

that portion of the

is

warp, which remains after

of

the weaving

finished,

stretched between the

It is

the cloth and the yarn beam.

either for knotting the threads

used by the weaver

in
if

which may be brokeri

a succeeding

web,
is

if

nearly of the same fineness; or

the

new web

exactly of the

same

set

and quality of the

preceding, he frequently prefers twisting the

to the old, thread by thready to

new warp

drawing

it

afresh through

the

mounting.

This

is

particularly the case in fancy

or ornamental work.

The

length of the thrum must

vary according to circumstances.

vals

One and

a half intera

between the standards, or 16| inches

is

common

allowance in plain work.

After the warper has ascertained the length of his

warp, his next duty

is

to calculate

how

often he

must

repeat his operation, to complete the

number

of threads

required in the breadth.

The

quantity of yarn

wound

upon the

mill, in
is

going from the upper to the lower pins

generally called by warpers a mill gang,
is

and returning,
or bout.

As

the breadth

generally counted in porters

of 20 splits each, and as every split contains

it is

two threads,

plain that in turning the mill

from the upper to the

lower lease pins and returning again, every bobbin in the

bank will produce two threads, or one

splitful of

warp,

ESSAY
Hence
it

I.

follows, that his calculation

must depend upon

or runners,

the proportion which the

number of bobbins,

bears to the

number of

porters required.

For every 20

bobbins will produce one porter of warp, each time that

the operation
is

repeated.

Therefore,
20, to reduce
the

if

the

number of
to splits,

porters are multiplied

by

them

and the product divided by

number of bobbins,
bouts.

the quotient will be the

If,

number
is

of mill gangS) or

for example, a
is

Warp

to

contain 93 porters,

and the warp

to

be run with

100 bobbins: then, 93

X 20
1

1860 and 1860

4
Or

100

= 18^
the

Of
bins,

course, 18 mill gangs are to be run with 100 bob-

and

mill

gang with 60.

if

number of

bobbins can be divided by 20, without leaving a fraction,

the porters divided by the quotient will give the same
result,

and the operation will be shorter: 100

for,
18-1

20

5 and 93

=
is

In the
second,

first
it is

example, the remainder

splitfuls; in the
splits,

porters,
is

and 3 porters are equal to 60

so that the result

exactly the same.

Although the above are very simple arithmetical operations, I

have added a table, because

who
little

are not proficients in calculation,

may assist those and may save time

it

and trouble to those

who

are.

In this table there

is

of novelty, for many, upon similar plans, have been

formerly published.

Those, however, which are to be met with

publications,

in

former

appear

in

general

to

have

been

more
where
form
is,

adapted to the use of those

in

who conduct

small businesses

what

is

called the line of customer weaving,

is

the warper generally receives the yarn, which

his

to

warp, in small parcels from his employers, and

PLAIN WEAVING.
of consequence, frequently limited in the

41
number of
his

bobbins, than for the purposes of general and extensive

manufacture, where such inconveniences seldom occur.

I have, therefore, calculated the

following table on a more

whilst, at

extensive scale than has been usually done;

the

same time,

it

may be rendered
mode

useful, in almost every

instance, even for small

and limited operations.

of using
it,

The

following description of the

to illustrate this.

will serve

The
20

first

column on each page contains porters

1

(of

splits

each) from

to 150.

The number

of bobbins,

or runners, are contained in the other columns, and the

number
marked
mill
1

is

marked on the top of each.

The column
to

contains the

number of times required

run a

gang with one bobbin, to produce the porters opposite.

other columns express the same, with the

The

number
run

of bobbins marked on the top of each.

As an example,
is

suppose that a warp containing 114 porters,

to be

with 110 bobbins.

Tracing 114 from the

first

column,

and 110 from the top, will give 20-80, signifying that
the warper
is

to

run 20 times with his whole number of

bobbins, and the last course with 80.

It

may

appear unnecessary to many, that the numbers

10,

1, 2, 3, 4, 5,

and 15, should have been inserted in

this

table,

while the larger numbers have been taken

of 10 bobbins each.

at intervals

The

reasons for this

arrangement are as follow:

Istly,

The

first

column of

bobbins

marked one, by the

former explanation, certainly shows

how

often the mill

must be turned
bobbin.

to

produce the warp required, with one

And

this, in

150 porters, will be no

less

than

3000 times.

It is

obvious that no person, in his senses,

this kind.

would undertake a task of

But besides

this.,

42
this

ESSAY

I.

column expresses the number of

splits

contained in
give the

the

number of
two

porters opposite to
splits,

it.

It also will

number of hundreds and

the
right
:

by placing a point before

left are

hand

figures.

Those on the
splits.

then

hundreds

those on the right

This will frequently

save a calculation.

The second column, being exactly one half the first, may be used to obtain the number of splits one chain, when the warp consists of two, which
2dly,

of
in
is

often the case.

3dly,

warper

who

is

limited in his quantity of yarn

for warp, will often be obliged to diminish the

number

of his bobbins,
operation.

when he comes nearly to the end of his The small numbers may, therefore, be of
and
if less

service in a case of this kind;

useful to those,
scale,

whose operations

are conducted

on an extensive

they will at least allow that the table

would have been

it

defective without them.

To

the latter,

seems unne-

cessary to

make any apology,

for calculating the

columns

containing the larger numbers, at intervals of 10 each.

They

are

seldom so limited, as to be precluded from

as

warping with

many bobbins
them

as their

bank or heck

will

contain, and the table to

will be merely similar to

is

what

a ready reckoner, or interest table

to a merchant,

or banker.

WARPERS' TABLE.

44

ESSAY

I,

WARPERS*
CO
4-J
5-1

BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.
'

2 10

4
5

10 4
8

15
1-5

30

40
j

20 40

6-2
13-1

2 4
6
8

2
3

20
30

10
15

2-10 4
5-5

1-10

60
80

20
26-2
33-1

12
16

1-20

4
5

40
50 60
70

20
25

2-20 2
3-10 2-20

100
120
140

20
24
28
32 36

10
12

6-10
8

6
7
8

40
46-2
53-1

30
35

14 16
18

9-5

4-20 3-20
5-10 4
6

160
180

80

40
45
50
55

10-10
12 13-5

9
10
11

90

60
66-2
73-1

4-20

200 100 220 110

240 120 260 130

40
44
48
52

20 go
24
26 28 30
32 34 36 38

6-20 5
7-10 5-20
8

14-10
16
17-5

12

80
86-2
93-1

60
65
70
75

13

8-20 6-20 9-10

10

14
15

280 140

56

18-10

300 150 100 320 160 106-2

60 64
68 72 76 80

20
21-5

7-20

16
17 18 19

80
85

10-20 8

340 170 113-1

360 180 120 380 190 126-2

22-10 11-10 8-20

90
95

24
25-5

12

12-20 9-20

20 400 200 133-1 100

21

40
42

26-10 13-10 10

420 210 140

105

84
88

28
29-5

14

10-20

22
23

440 220 146-2 110

460 230 153-1 115
120

44
46 48

14-20 11

92

30-10 15-10 11-20

24 480 240 160

25

96

32
33-5

16

12

500 250 166-2 125 100

50

16-20 12-20

PLAIN WEAVING.

45

TABLE.
C/5

BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.

4~>

50

60

70

80

90

100

110

120

2
3
.4

1-10

1-30 1-20

1-10 1-30
1-50

1-40

1-20

1-10

6 7
8

2-20 2

1-40
1-60

1-30 1-50
1-70

1-20

1-10

2-40 2=20 2

1-40
1-60

1-30 1-50
1-70 1-90

1-20 1-40 1-60

3-10 2-40 2-20 2

9
10
11

3-30 3
4

2-40 2-20 2

1-80

3-20 2-60 2-40 2-20 2

1-80

4-20 3-40 3-10 2-60 2-40 2-20

1-100
2

12 13

4-40 4

3-30 3

2-60 2-40 2-20 2-40 2-60

2-80

5-10 4-20 3-50 3-20 2-80 2-60

2-20

14

5-30 4-40 4
6
5

3-40 3-10 2-80

2-40
2-60
2-80

15
16
17

4-20 3-60 3-30 3

6-20 5-20 4-40 4

3-50 3-20 2-100

6-40 5-40 4-60 4-20 3-70 3-40

7-10 6 5-10 4-40 4

3-10

2-100
3

18
19

3-60

3-30
3-50
3-70 3-90
4

7-30 6-20 5-30 4-60 4-20 3-80

8

3-20
3-40

20
21
C)C)

6-40 5-50 5
6

4-40 4

8-20 7

5-20 4-60 4-20

3-60
3-80

8-40 7-20 6-20 5-40 4-80 4-40 9-10 7-40 6-40 5-60 5-10 4-60 9-30 8
10

23

4-20

3-100
4

24
25

6-60 6

5-30 4-80

4-40
4-60

8-20 7-10 6-20 5-50 5

4-20

46

ESSAY

I.

WARPERS
BOBBINS, OT RUNNERS.

'

10

15

30

40

26
27

520 260 173-1 130 104 540 270 180

135
108

52

34-10 17-10 13

54
56

36
37-5

18

13-20

28 29

560 280 186-2 140 112 580 290 193-1 145

116

18-20 14

58

38-10 19-10 14-20

30
31

600 300 200

150 120

60 40
62 64 66 68
41-5

20

15

620 310 206-2 155 124 640 320 213-1 160 128 660 330 220
165

20-20 15-20

42-10 21-10 16

33 34

132

44
45-5

22

16-20

680 340 226-2 170 136

22-20 17

35
36
37

700 350 233-1 175 140

720 360 240
180
144

70 46-10 23-10 17-20

72

48
49-5

24

18

740 370 246-2 185 148

74
76 78 80
82

24-20 18-20

38
39

760 380

253r-l

190
195

152
156

50-10 25-10 19

780 390 260

52
53-5

26

19-20

40
41
Tii

800 400 266-2 200 160

820 410 273^1 205 164 840 420 280

26-20 20

54-10 27-10 20-2G

210 168

84 86
88

56
57-5

28

21

43

860 430 286-2 215 172 880 440 293-1 220 176

28-20 21-20

44
45 46
47 48
49

58-10 29-10 22
30
22-20

900 450 300

225 180

90 60
92
61-5

920 460 306-2 230 184

940 470 313-1 235 188 960 480 320 240 192 980 490 326-2 245 196

30-20 23

94
96

62-10 31-10 23-20

64
65-5

32

24

98

32-20 24-20
\

50 1000 500 333-1 250 200 100 66-10 33-10 25

I

PLAIN WEAVING,

TABLE.
BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.
P

50

60

70

80

90

100

110

120
4-40

26
27
28 29

10-20 8-40 7-30 6-40 5-70 5-20 4-80

10-40 9

7-50 6-60 6
7

5-40 4-100

4-60

11-10 9-20 8

6-20 5-60 5-10

4-80

11-30 9-40 8-20 7-20 6-40 5-80 5-30

10

4-100
5

30 12
31

8-40 7-40 6-60 6

5-50

12-20 10-20 8-60 7-60 6-80 6-20 5-70 12-40 10-40 9-10 8
13-10 11

5-20

32
33

7-10 6-40 5-90

5-40
5-60

9-30 8-20 7-30 6-60 6

8-40 7-50 6-80 6-20
8-60 7-70 7
8

34 35 36 37

13-30 11-20 9-50

14

5-80

11-40 10

6-40

5-100
6

14-20 12

10-20 9

7-20 6-60
7-40 6-80

14-40 12-20 10-40 9-20 8-20

6-20 6-40 6-60 6-80

38
39

15-10 12-40 10-60 9-40 8-40 7-60 6-100

15-30 13

11-10 9-60 8-60 7-80 7-10

40 16
41

13-20 11-30 10

8-80 8

7-30

16-20 13-40 11-50 10-20 9-10 8-20 7-50

16-40 14
12

6-100
7

42
43

10-40 9-30 8-40 7-70

17-10 14-20 12-20 10-60 9-50 8-60 7-90 17-30 14-40 12-40 11
18 15

7-20

44

9-70 8-80 8
9

7-40
7-60
7-80
7- 100 8

45
46 47 48

12-60 11-20 10

8-20

18-20 15-20 13-10 11-40 10-20 9-20 8-40 18-40 15-40 13-30 11-60 10-40 9-40 8-60 19-10 16

13-50 12

10-60 9-60 8-80

49

19-30 16-20 14

12-20 10-80 9-80 8-100

8-20
8-40

50 20

16-40 14-20 12-40 11-10 10

9-10

ES SAY

Yti

WARPERS*
CO
J-l

BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS,
1

<V
4-1
5-1

10

15

30
34

40
25-20

51 1020 510 340

255 204 102

104

68
69-5

52 1040 520 346-2 260 208

53 1060 530 353-1 265 212
54?

34-20 26

106

70-10 35-10 26-20

1080 540 360

270 216 108

110

72
73-5

36

27

55 1100 550 366-2 275 220

36-20 27-20

56 1120 560 373-1 280 224 112

51 1140 570 380

74-10 37-10 28

285 228 114

116

76
77-5

38

28-20

58 1160 580 386-2 290 232 59 1180 590 393-1 295 236

38-20 29

118

78-10 39-10 29-20

60 1200 600 400

300 240 120

122

80
81-5

40

30

61 1220 610 406-2 305 244

40-20 30-20

62 1240 620 413-1 310 248 63 1260 630 420

124
126

82-10 41-10 31

315 252

84
85-5

42

31-20

64 1280 640 426-2 320 256 128 65 1300 650 433-1 325 260 130

42-20 32

86-10 43-10 32-20

66 1320 660 440

330 264 132

134
136

88
89-5

44

33

67 1340 670 446-2 335 268

68 1360 680 453-1 340 272

44-20 33-20

90-10 45-10 34

69 1380 690 460

345 276

138

92
93-5

46

34-20

70 1400 700 466-2 350 280

71 1420 710 473-1 355 284

140
142 144
146

46-20 35

94-10 47-10 35-20

72 1440 720 480

360 288

96
97-5

48

36

73 1460 730 486-2 365 292 74 1480 740 493-1 370 296 75 1500 750 500
1

48-20 36-20

148
i

98-10 49-10 37
50
37-20

375 300 150 100

PLAIN WEAVING*
TABLE.
BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.
CD

49

50

60

70

80

90

100

110
9-30 9-50

120
8-60
8-80

51

20-20 17

14-40 12-60 11-30 10-20

11-50 10-40

52 20-40 17-20 14-60 13

53 21-10 17-40 15-10 13-20 11-70 10-60

9-70
9-90
10

8-100
9

I* 21-30 18
55 22

15-30 13-40 12

10-80

18-20 15-50 13-60 12-20 11

14

9-20

56 22-20 18-40 16 51 22-40 19

12-40 11-20 10-20

9-40
9-60 9-80

16-20 14-20 12-60 11-40 10-40

58 23-10 19-20 16-40 14-40 12-80 11-60 10-60 59 23-30 19-40 16-60 14-60 13-10 11-80 10-80

9-100

0 24
61

20

17-10 15

13-30 12

10-100 10
10-20 10-40 10-60

24-20 20-20 17-30 15-20 13-50 12-20 11-10

24-40 20-40 17-50 15-40 13-70 12-40 11-30

18

63 25-10 21

15-60 14

12-60 11-50

64 25-30 21-20 18-20 16

65 26

14-20 12-80 11-70

10-80

21-40 18-40 16-20 14-40 13

11-90

10-100
11

66 26-20 22

18-60 16-40 14-60 13-20 12

67 26-40 22-20 19-10 16-60 14-80 13-40 12-20 68 27-10 22-40 19-30 17
69 27-30 23 70 28
71

11-20

15-10 13-60 12-40

11-40
11-60

19-50 17-20 15-30 13-80 12-60

23-20 20

17-40 15-50 14

12-80

11-80

28-20 23-40 20-20 17-60 15-70 14-20 12-100 11-100

72 28-40 24

20-40 18

16

14-40 13-10

12

73 29-10 24-20 20-60 18-20 16-20 14-60 13-30

12-20 12-40 12-60

74 29-30 24-40 21-10 18-40 16-40 14-80 13-50

75 30

25

21-30 18-60 16-60 15

13-70

ESSAY

I.

WARPERS"
BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.
o
Ph
1

2
I

4
3*80

10

15

30

40

76 1520 7601506-2

304 152 101-5 50-20 38

154 102-10 51-10 38-20

77 1540 770|5i3-l 385 308 78 1560 780 520

390 312 156 104

52

39

79 1580 790 526-2 395 316

158 105-5 52-20 39-20

80 1600 800 533-1 400 320 160 106-10 53-10 40

81 1620 810 540

405 324 162 108

54

40-20

82 1640 820 546-2 410 328 83 1660 830 553-i 415 332 84 1680 840 560

164 109-5 54-20 41 166 110-10 55-10 41-20 56 42

420 336 168 112

85 1700 850 566-2 425 340

170 113-5 56-20 42-20

86 1720 860 573-1 430 344 172 114-10 57-10 43

87 1740 870 580

435 348 174 116

58

43-20

88 1760 880 586-2 440 352

176 117-5 58-20 44

89 1780 890 593-1 445 356

178 118-10 59-10 44-20

120-

90 1800 900 600

450 360 180

60

45

91 1820 910 606-2 455

364 182 121-5 60-20 45-20

92 1840 920 613-1 460 368 184 122-10 61-10 46

93 1860 930 620

465 372 186 124

62

46-20

94 1880 940 626-2 470 376 188 125-5 62-20 47

95 1900 950 633-1 475 .380 190 126-10 63-10 47-20

96 1920 960 640

480 384 192 128

64

48

97 1940 970 646-2 485 388 194 129-5 64-20 48-20 98 1960 980 653-1 490 392 99 1980 990 660
196 130-10 65-10 49

495 396 198 132

66

49-20

100 2000 1000 666-2 500 400 200 133-5 66-20 50

PLAIN WEAVING.
TABLE.
CD
S-i

51

BOBBINS,

01*

RUNNERS.
100
1

o
ft

50

60

70

80

90

110

120
12-80

76 30-20 25-20 21-50 19

77 30-40 25-40 22 78 31-10 26

16-80 15-20 13-90

19-20 17-10 15-40 14

12-100
13

22-20 19-40 17-30 15-60 14-20

79 31-30 26-20 22-40 19-60 17-50 15-80 14-40

13-20
13-40 13-60

80 32

26-40 22-60 20

17-70 16

14-60

81 32-20 27

23-10 20-20 18

16-20 14-80

82 32-40 27-20 23-30 20-40 18-20 16-40 14-100 13-80

83 33-10 27-40 23-50 20-60 18-40 16-60 15-10

13-100
14

84 33-30 28
4

24

21

18-60 16-80 15-30

85 34

28-20 24-20 21-20 18-80 17

15-50

14-20
14-40 14-60

86 34-20 28-40 24-40 21-40 19-10 17-20 15.-70 87 34-40 29

24-60 21-60 19-30 17-40 15-90

19-50 17-60 16

88 35-10 29-20 25-10 22

14-80

89 35-30 29-40 25-30 22-20 19-70 17-80 16-20

14-100
15

90 36

30

25-50 22-40 20

18

16-40

91 36-20 30-20 26

22-60 20-20 18-20 16-60

15-20

92 36-40 30-40 26-20 23

93 37-10 31
.94

20-40 18-40 16-80

15-40

26-40 23-20 20-60 18-60 16-100 15-60

15-80

37-30 31-20 26-60 23-40 20-80 18-80 17-10 31-40 27-10 23-60 21-10 19
17-30

95 38

15-100
16

96 38-20 32

27-30 24

21-30 19-20 17-50

97 38-40 32-20 27-50 24-20 21-50 19-40 17-70

16-20

98 39-10 32-40 28
99 39-30 33
100 40

24-40 21-70 19-60 17-90

19-80 18

16-40
16-60
16-80

28-20 24-60 22

33-20 28-40 25

22-20 20

18-20

52

ESSAY

I.

WARPERS'
CO
J-l

BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.
1

CU
-4-

u O

10

15

30

40

101 2020 1010 673-1 505 404 202

134-10 67-10 50-20 68

51

102 2040 1020 680

510 408 204 136

103 2060 1030 686-2 515 412 206 137-5 68-20 51-20

104 2080 1040 693~1 520 416 208 138-10 69-10 52 52-20 70 525 420 210 140 105 2100 1050 700
106 2120 1060 706-2 530 424 212 141-5 70-20 53 107 2140 1070 713-1 535 428 214 142-10 71-10 53-20

108 2160 1080 720

540 432 216 144

72

54

109 2180 1090 726-2 545 436 218 145-5 72-20 54-20 110 2200 1100 733-1 550 440 220 146-10 73-10 55
111 2220 1110 740

555 444 222 148

74

55-20

112 2240 1120 746-2 560 448 224 149-5 74-20 56 113 2260 1130 753-1 565 452 226 150-10 75-10 56-20
114 2280 1140 760

570 456 228 152

76

57

115 2300 1150 766-2 575 460 230 153-5 76-20 57-20

116 2320 1160 773-1 580 464 232 154-10 77-10 58

117 2340 1170 780

585 468 234 156

78

58-20

118 2360 1180 786-2 590 472 236 157-5 78-20 59

119 2380 1190 793-1 595 476 238 158-10 79-10 59-20

120 2400 1200 800

600 480 240 160

161-5

80

60

121 2420 1210 806-2 605 484 242

80-20 60-20

122 2440 1220 813-1 610 488 244

123 2460 1230 820

162-10 81-10 61
82

615 492 246 164

61-20
|

124 2480 1240 826-2 620 496 248 165-5 82-20 62 125 2500 1250 833-1 625 500 250 166-10 83-10 62-20]
1

PLAIN WEAVING,
TABLE.
u
<u
+~l

BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.

50

60

70

90

100

110

120
16-100
17

101 40-20 33-4028-60 25 -20 22. -40 20-20 18 -40

102 40-40 34

29-10 25 -40 22- -60 20-40 18 -60

103 41-10 34-20 29-30 25 -60 22- -80 20-60 18 -80

17-20
17-40

104 41-30 34-40 29-50 26

105 42
35

23- -10 20-80 18 -100

30

26 -20 23- -30 21

19 -10
19.

17-60 17-80

106 42-20 35-20 30-20 26 -40 23- -50 21-20

107 42-40 5_40 30-40 26

30
70
90

60 23- 70 21-40
24
21-60

19 50
19. 19-

17-100
18

108 43-10 36

30-60 27

109 43-30 36-20 31-10 27. 20 24- 20 21-80 110 44

9-6-4Q

18-20
18-40

31-30 27. 40 24- 40 22

20 20

111 44-20 37

31-50 27.

24- 60 22-20 20-

18-60

112 44^40 37-20 32

28

80 22-40
25- 10

20-

40

18-80

113 45-10 37-40 32-20 28-

22-60 20- 60

18-100
19

IH

45-30 38

32-40 28- -40 25- 30 22-80

80
20. 1001

115 48

38-20 32-60 28- 60 25--50 23

19-20 19-40
19-60 19-80

116 46-20 38-40 33-10 29

ji

25--70 23-20 21.-10

17 46-40 39

33-30 29- 20 26

23-40

21.-30

118 47-10 39-20 33-50 29- 40 26 -20 23-60 21--50

119 47-30 9-40 34
29- 60 26 -40 23-80 21--70

19-100

120

40

34-20 30

26 -60 24

21--90

20
20-20 20-40
20-60 20-80

121 48-20 40-20

30- 20 26 -80 24-20 22

122 48-40 40-40 34-60 30- 40 27. 10 24-40 22 -20

i

123 49-10 41

35-1030 60 27- 30 24-60 22 40

27- 50

124 49-30 41-20 35-30 31

125 50

24-80 22 60

41-40 35-50 31 2027-

25

22

20-100

ESSAY

I,

WARPERS
EOBBINS, OT RUNNERS.
5<

10
[

15

30
84

40
63

IV6 2520 1260 840

630 504 252 168

127 2540 1270 846-2 635 508 254 169-5 84-20 63-20 128 2560 1280 853-1 640 512 256 170.10 85-10 64 129 2580 1290 860

645 516 258 172

86

64-20

130 2600 1300 866-2 650 520 260 173-5

131 2620 1310 873-1 655

86-20 65

524 262 174-10 87-10 65-20

52.8

132 2640 1320 S80

660

264 176
177-5

88

66

133 2660 1330 886-2 665 532 266

88-20 66-20

134 2680 1340 893-1 670 536 268 178-10 89-10 67 135 2700 1350 900

675 540 270 180

90

67-20

136 2720 1360 906-2 680 544 272 181-5 90-20 68

137 2740 1370 913-1 685 548 274 182-10 91-10 68-20

138 2760 1380 920

690 552 276 184

92

69

139 2780 1390 926-2 695 556 278 185-5 92-20 69-20

140 2800 1400 933-J 700 560 280 186-10 93-10 70

141 2820 1410 940

705 564 282 188

94

70-20

142 2840 1420 946-2 710 568 284 189-5 94-20 71 143 2860 1430 953-1 715 572 286 144 2880 1440 960
190-10 95-10 71-20
96
72

720 576 288 192

145 2900 1450 966-2 725 580 290 193-5 96-20 72-2Q
146 2920 1460 973-1 730 584 292 194-10 97-10 73
147 2940 1470 980

735 588 294 196

98

73-20

148 2960 1480 986-2 740 592 296 197-5 98-20 74

149 2980 1490 993-1 745 596 298
15.0

198-10 99-10 74-2G|

3000 1500 11000 750 600 300 200

i

100

75

PLAIN WEAVING.
1 ^ABL E,

55

BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.
5-1

O
Ah

50

60

70
36

80

90

100

110

120

126 50-20 42

31-40 28

25-20 22-100 21

127 50-40 42-20 36-20 31-60 28-20 25-40 23-10

128 51-10 42-40 36-40 32
129 51-30 43

21-20 21-40

28-40 25-60 23-SO

36-60 32-20 28-60 25-80 23-50

21-60 21-80

130 52

43-20 37-10 32-40 28-80 26

23-70

131 52-20 43-40 37-30 32-60 29-10 26-20 23-90

21-100

i32 52-40 44

37-50 33

29-30 26-40 24

22
22-20
22-40

133 53-10 14-20 38

33-20 29-50 26-60 24-20

134 53-30 44-40 38-20 33-40 29-70 26-80 24-40

135 54

45

38-40 33-60 30

27

24-60

22-60 22-80

136 54-20 45-20 38-60 34

30-20 27-20 24-80

137 54-40 45-40 39-10 34-20 30-40 27-40 24-100 22-100

138 55-10 46

39-30 34-40 30-60 27-60 25-10

*

23 23-20

139 55-30 46-20 39-50 34-60 30-80 27-80 25-30

140 56

46-40 40

35

31-10 28

25-50

23-40
23-60
23-80

141 56-20 47

40-20 35-20 31-30 28-20 25-70

142 56-40 47-20 40-40 35-40 31-50 28-40 25-90

143 57-10 47-40 40-60 35-60 31-70 28-60 26

23-100 24
24-20'

144 57-30 48
145 58

41-10 36

32

28-80 26-20 26-40

48-20 41-30 36-20 32-20 29

146 58-20 48-40 41-50 36-40 32-40 29-20 26-60 147 58-40 49
42
36-60 32-60 29-40 26-80

24-40
24-60

148 59-10 49-20 42-20 37

32-80 29-60 26-100 24-80

149 59-30 49-40 42-40 37-20 33-10 29-80 27-10

24-100
253

150 60

50

42-60 37-40 33-30 30

27-30

56

ESSAY
wind

1.

When

the warp has been delivered to the weaver,

to
it

and he prepares

upon the beam,

it is

necessary,
ravel
is

in the first place, to calculate the

number of the

which he ought
ascertained by the

to use.

The number
scores

of the ravel

number of
200 pins

pins contained in 36 inches,

and these are counted by

a ravel containing

of 20 pins each.
is

Thus

in

36 inches,

called a ten

score ravel.

If,

therefore, a
it

warp 36 inches or % broad

contains

200 half gangs,

another

will require a ten score ravel.

But,

if,

web

containing the same

it

number of

half

gangs,

is

to

be of a greater breadth,
if

will obviously re-

quire a coarser ravel, and

will be necessary.

of less breadth, a finer one

The

difference, is

found by an inverse

proportion: for,

As 16
So
is

the

number of

nails in a

yard

Is to the

number of
number of

half gangs,
nails in the

the

breadth proposed

To

the

number

of pins in the ravel required, inversely.

From

this the following rule will arise:

Multiply the

number of
required.

half gangs in the

warp by

16, and divide the

product by the number of 16ths, or

nails, in the

breadth

The

quotient will be the

number of
to

the ravel

sought.

For example,

let

warp which

is

be beamed if

broad, contain 236 half gangs.

Required the ravel?

236 X 16

3776 and 3776

19

198if
pins or 9

The

fraction

may be thrown away, and 198

is

score 18 pins will be the ravel sought.

In those instances where the breadth

or 8ths of a yard, the operation

counted in 4ths
shorter.

may be made

In the

first

case, multiply
:

by 4 and divide by the number by 8 and

of 4ths in the breadth

divide

in the second, multiply

by the number of

8ths,

PLAIN WEAVING.
Upon
But
is it

51
is

this principle, the

Beaming Table

calculated.

must be noticed

in this place, that

some allowance

to

be made in the number of the ravel, which ought

exact

always to be coarser than the

number of

pins

which

will give the breadth, for the following reason:

first

The

part of a

warp which

is

wound upon
it,

the
for

beam, must always be broader than what follows

the sake of building the selvage properly,

which cannot

be done perpendicularly, and the breadth must gradually

decrease during the whole operation.

Therefore,

it

will

be nearest the truth to calculate the ravel, so that an

may be produced. That is to say, the breadth of the warp upon the beam ought to be, as nearly as possible, the same with that at the reed, when
average breadth
the process of beaming
is

half finished.

It is

impossible

to give any certain rule for the allowance, as a long

will require

more than a

short one, and a coarse

web web

more than

a fine one.

The

Table, therefore,

is

calculated

to the exact breadth (omitting fractions),

and the allow-

ances

left to

the discretion of the beamer.

Some
web,

weavers, after ascertaining the breadth of their

of the
list,

roll pieces

or selvage, of woollen cloth

to confine

a certain

number of times round the beam,

each selvage of their warp.

When

this is

done, the warp

may be beamed
the end.

of equal breadth from the beginning to

This Table

is

to be used nearly in the

same way

as the

"Warpers' Table.

The

half gangs, from 50 to 348 at

intervals of two, are contained in the first

column upon

each page.

The remaining columns

breadth
is

contain the

number

of the ravel, in scores and pins, for each breadth from 4

to 1,

The

marked on the top of each column,

Therefore, to use the Table, find

as a fraction of a yard.

58
the

ESSAY
number of
line,

I.

half gangs in the

first

column, and on the

same
the

and under the breadth proposed, will be found

ravel.

number of the

For instance, suppose that a

weaver receives a warp consisting of 270 half gangs, and

is

instructed to have

it

beamed

~|

wide-,

by referring

to

the Table, he will find in the same line with 270, and

under xi> 9-7, which

omitting fractions.
as his

is

the exact
will then

number of the

ravel,

He

make such allowance

direct (say 7 pins),
in the

judgment and experience may

which being subtracted from the number found

Table, will lead him to select a nine score ravel, as suited

to his purpose.

In the breadths not exceeding J, or yard, the calcula^ tion is only carried on until a 16 score ravel would be
required.
It
is

was deemed unnecessary

to

go

farther, for

even

this

much
to

finer than ravels are generally

made,
It is

or than will be found useful in

common

practice.

not

common
is

make

ravels nearer in
is it

number

to each

other than 5 pins, nor

ravel

essentially necessary; for if a

too coarse for the breadth required, by a

few

pins,

the warp

may be
to

easily

reduced to the proper breadth,

by holding the ravel

parallel

in

an oblique direction, instead of

the beam.

By

the same means,

and by

gradually increasing the obliquity during the process of

beaming, the breadth

is

decreased to build the selvages.

BEAMING TABLE.

60

ESSAY

I,

BEAMING
BREADTHS OF WARPS AND
Half Gangs.
I i

o
6

^6

7
8

4 4

50
52 54 56
58

4
4-3

3-12

3-6

3-1

2-17

2-13 2-10 2-7

3-15 3-9
3-18
4-1

3-4

2-19 2-15 2-12 2-8

3-1

4-6
4-9

3-12 3-6

2-17 2-14 2-10

2-19 2-16 2-12
3-1

3-14
3-17
4

3-8

3-4
3-6
3-8

4-12 4-4 4-16 4-7

3-11

2-18 2-14
3

60

3-13 3-16 3-18

4-1

3-4

2-16

62
64

4-19 4-10 4-2

5-2
5-5 5-8

3-10 3-6
3-13
3-8

3-2

2-18
3

4-13 4-5 4-16 4-8

3-4

66
68

3-15 3-10 3-6 3-17 3-12 3-8

4
4-2

3-2

4-18 4-10 4-3

3-4

70
72

5-12 5-1 5-15 5-4 5-18 5-7

6-1

4-13 4-6

3-14

3-10 3-5

4-16 4-8 4-18 4-11

3-16 3-12 3-7 3-18

4-1

74 76

4-4

3-14 3-9 3-16

3-18
4
4-2

5-10 5-1
5-13
5-4

4-13 4-6

3-11

78 80
82

6-4 6-8

4-16 4-9 4-18 4-11

5 5-3

4-3

3-13

5-16 5-6

4-5

3-15

6-11

5-19

5-9

4-13 4-7

3-17
3-19
4
4-2

84
86 88

6-14 6-2 6-17 6-5

7

5-12

4-16 4-9
4-18 4-11
5

4-4
4-6

5-14 5-5
5-17
5-8

6-8

4-13 4-8

90
92

7-4
7-7

6-10 6
6-13 6-2

5-10 5-2
5-13
5-5

4-16 4-10 4-4

4-18 4-12 4-6
5

94
96 98

7-10 6-16 6-5

7-13 6-19 6-8

5-15 5-1 5-18 5-9

4-14 4-8 4-16 4-10

5-2

7-16 7-2

6-10 6

5-12 5-4

4-18 4-12

PLAIN WEAVING.
TABLE.
NUMBERS OF THE RAVELS.
Half Gangs.

61

2-4 2-6
2-8

*'6

4
i

1-16 1-17
1-19
2

3 i d"

6
4-

50
52

2-2
2-3

2
2-1

1-18

1-14
1-16 1-17 1-18
2
2-1

1-13

1-8
1-9

1-19
2-1

1-14 1-16 1-17

1-18

54
56 58

2-5 2-7
2-8

2-3

1-10
1-12

2-9

2-4
2-6

2-2 2-4
2-5

2-11

2-2
2-3

1-13

60
62 64
66
68

2-13

2-10 2-8

2
2-1

1-14
1-15

2-15 2-12 2-9

2-16 2-13 2-11

2-7
2-8

2-5
2-6

2-3

2-4

2-2 2-4
2-5

1-16 1-17
1-18

2-18 2-15 2-12 2-10 2-8

3

2-5
2-7

2-17 2-14 2-11

2-9

70
72

3-2
3-4 3-5
3-7 3-9

2-18 2-16 2-13 2-10 2-8

3

2-6

2
2-1

2-17 2-14 2-12 2-10 2-8 2-19 2-16 2-13 2-11 2-9
3

74
76 78

3-2

2-2

3-4
3-5 3-7
3-9

2-17 2-15 2-12 2-10 2-3

3-2 3-4
3-5

2-19 2-16 2-14 2-12 .2-4

3

80
82
84

3-11

2-18 2-15 2-13 2-5 2-19 2-17 2-14 2-6

3-1

3-12

3-2 3-4
3-5

3-14 3-10 3-7

2-18 2-16 2-8 2-19 2-17 2-9

3-1

86
88

3-16
3-18
4
4-1

3-12 3-8

3-2 3-4
3-5

3-14 3-10 3-7

3-15 3-12 3-8

2-18 2-10
3 3-1

90 92
94 96
98

3-2

2-11

3-17 3-13 3-10 3-6 3-19 3-15 3-11

4
4-2 3-8

3-4
3-5 3-6
3-8

2-12 2-13

4-3 4-5
4-7

3-2 3-4

3-16 3-13 3-9

3-18 3-14 3-11

2-14
2-16

3-5

(J2

ESSAY

I.

BEAMING
BREADTHS OF WARPS AND
Half Gangs.
1G0
102 104
106
108
I
i

i 3

i i

4 4

I 7
i

7-5'

6-13 6-3

5-14 5-6 5-16 5-8

4-14

8-3 8-6

7-8

6-16 6-5
6-8

5-2

4-16 4-17

7-11 6-18

5-18 5-10 5-4

5-13
5-6

8-9

7-14 7-1

6-10 6-1
6-13 6-3

4-19
5-1

8-12 7-17 7-4

8-16 8 8-19 8-2
9-2 9-5 8-5
8-8
7-6 7-9

5-15 5-8
5-17

110
112 114

6-15 6-5

5-10 5-3
5-12
5-5

6-18 6-8
7

5-19

7-12

6-10 6-1 6-12 6-3

6-14 6-5
6-17
6-8

5-14 5-7

116
118

7-14

7-2 7-5 7-7

5-16 5-9
5-18
6
5-11

9-8

8-11 7-17

120

9-12 8-14 8 9-15 8-17 8-2 9-18 9

10-1

5-12

122
124 126 128

7-10 6-19 6-10 6-2

7-12 7-1
7-15 7-4

5-14
5-16
5-18
6

8-5 8-8

6-12 6-4

9-3 9-6 9-9

6-14 6-6
6-16 6-8

10-4
10-8
10-11

8-10 7-17 7-6

8-13
8

130
132

7-8

6-18 6-10 6-2

6-12 6-4

9-12 8-16 8-2

7-10 7
7-13
7-2 7-5

134 136
138

10-14 9-14 8-18 8-4

10-17
11

6-14 6-6
6-16 6-8

9-17 9-1
10 10-3

8-7 8-9

7-15
7-17

9-4 9-6
9-9

7-7
7-9

6-18 6-9
6-11
7-2

140
142

11-4
11-7

8-12 8 8-14 8-2

8-4
8-6
8-9

10-6

7-11

6-13

144
146
148

11-10 10-9

9-12 8-17

7-13

7-4

6-15
6-17 6-19

11-13 10-12 9-14 8-19

7-15 7-6 7-17 7-8

11-16 10-15 9-17 9-2

PLAIN WEAVING.

63

TABLE.
NUMBERS OF THE RAVELS.
Half Gangs.
100
102
104'

ii
r

~T5

T
:ui

4-8

l-l

4
4-1

3*16
3-17

3*12

3-9

2-17

4-10

1-5

3-14

3-10 3-8
3-12
3-13 3-15
3-9

2-18

4-12 4-7
4-14 4-9
4-16
1-10

4-3

3-19 3-15
4 4-2
4-3
1-5

2-19

106 108

4-4
4-6
l-s

3-17 3-18
I

3-10
3-12 3-1
3-2

110
112

4-17 4-12

3-16 3-13 3-17

4-19 4-14 4-9

5-1

4-1

3-14 3-4

114

4-16 4-11
4-17

1-6

4-2

3-19 3-16 3-5

4

116
118 120
122

5-3

4-12 4-8

4-4
1-5

3-17

3-6

5-4
5-6

4-19 4-14 4-9

5-1

4-2
4-3

3-18 3-7
4
4-1

4-16 4-11

4-7

3-S
3-9

5-8

5-2

4-17 4-12 4-8

4-4

124
126 128

5-10 5-4 5-12 5-6

5-13
5-7

4-19 4-14 4-10 4-6

5

4-2 4-4
4-5

3-10
3-12
3-13

4-16 4-11

4-7

5-2

4-17 4-13 4-9

130
132

5-15 5-9
5-17
5-11

5-4
5-5

4-19 4-14 4-10 4-6

5

3-14
3-15

4-16 4-11
4-17

4-8

134
136

5-19 5-12 5-7

6

5-2
5-3

4-13 4-9

3-16

5-14 5-8

4-18 4-14 4-10 3-17

5

138 140
142

6-2 6-4
6-6 6-8

5-16 5-10 5-5

5-17 5-19
6-1

4-16 4-12 3-1S

5-12 5-6
5-13 5-15
5-8 5-9

5-1

4-17 4-13 4

5-3

4-18 4-14 4-1

5
5-1

144
146 148

5-4
5-6

4-16 4-2 4-17 4-3

4-18
4-4

6-9

6-2 6-4

5-16 5-11
5-18

6-11

5-12 5-7

5-2

ESS JAY

1.

BEAMING
BREADTHS OF WARPS AND
Half Gangs.
150
152 154 156 158
I

o 6

1
4-

i i

s
(5

4 4

12 12-3

10-18 10
11-1

9-4
9-7

8-11

7-10 7-1
7-12 7-3

10-2

8-13

8-2
8-4 8-6

12-6
12-9

11-4 11-6

10-5 10-8

9-9

8-16
8-18

7-14 7-4 7-16 7-6

7-18 7-8

9-12

12-12 11-9

10-10 9-14 9
9-2

8-8

160
162
164

12-16 11-12 10-13 9-16

8-10 8
8-12 8-2 8-14 8-4
8-17 8-6
8-19 8-8
9-1

7-10
7-12 7-14 7-16 7-18

12-19 11-15 10-16 9-19 9-5

13-2 13-5 13-8

11-18 10-18 10-1

12-1
11-1

9-7

166

10-4

9-9

168

12-4

11-4

10-6
10-9

9-12

170 172
174

13-12 12-7

11-6

9-14
9-16

8-10 8
8-12 8-1 8-14 8-3 8-16 8-5
8-18
8-7

13-15 12-10 11-9

10-11

9-3

13-18 12-13 11-12 10-14 9-18

14-1

9-5 9-7 9-9

176 178

12-16 11-14 10-16 10-1

14-4
14-8

12-18 11-17 10-19 10-3

13-1

180
182

12

11-1

10-5
10-8

9-12 9

8-9

14-11 13-4

12-2
12-5

11-4
11-6
11-8

9-14 9-2

8-11

184
186
188

14-14 13-7

10-10 9-16 9-4

10-12

8-13

14-17 13-10 12-8

15

9-18 9-6
9-8

8-15

13-13 12-10 11-11 10-14 10 13-16 12-13 11-13 10-17 10-2

8-16

190
192

15-4
15-7

9-10 8-18
9-12 9 9-14 9-2
9-16 9-4

13-19 12-16 11-16 10-19 10-4 12-18 11-18 11-1

13-1 12-1

194
196 198

15-10 14-2
15-13 14-5

10-6
10-9

11-4
11-6

15-16 14-8

13-4

12-3

10-11 9-18 9-6

PLAIN WEAVING.
TABLE,
NUMBERS OF THE RAVELS.
Half Gangs.
9
i

65

9
6

2
I

ii
8

23
1

150
152
154
156
158

6-13 6-6
6-15 6-8

6
6-1

5-14 5-9

5-4

5
5-1

4-5

5-15 5-10 5-5 5-17 5-12 5-7 5-18 6

6-1

4-6

6-16 6-9

6-3

5-2

4-8
4-9

6-18 6-11
7
7-2

6-4

5-13

5-8

5-4
5-5

6-13 6-6

5-14 5-9

4-10
4-11

160
162 164 166
168

6-14 6-8 6-16 6-9

6-18 6-11

5-16 5-11

5-6

7-4 7-5 7-7

7-9

6-3

5-17 5-12 5-8 5-19 5-14 5-9

6
6-2
6-3

4-12
4-13

6-4

6-19 6-12 6-6

7-1

5-15 5-10 4-14 5-16 5-12 4-16 5-18 5-13 4-17

6-14 6-8
6-16 6-9

170 172
174 176
178

7-11

7-3

7-12 7-4
7-14
7-6
7-8

6-17 6-11

6-5

5-19 5-14 4-18

6-1

6-19 6-12 6-6

7

5-16 4-19
5-17 5

7-16
7-18
8
8-1

6-14 6-8
6-15 6-9

6-2
6-3

7-9

7-2

5-18 5-1
6
6-1

180
182 184 186 188

7-11

7-4
7-5

6-17 6-10 6-5 6-18 6-12 6-6

7
7-1

5-2

7-13

5-4 5-5
5-6

8-3
8-5 8-7
8-8

7-14 7-7
7-16 7-8

6-13 6-8 6-15 6-9

6-2

6-4

7-18 7-10 7-3

8

6-16 6-10 6-5

6-18 6-12 6-6

5-7
5-8 5-9

190
192 194
196
198

7-12 7-4
7-13
7-6

8-10 8-1 8-12 8-3

6-19 6-13 6-8

7-1

7-15 7-7
7-16
7-9

6-14 6-9

5-10

8-14 8-5
8-16 8-6

7-2

6-16 6-10 5-12

6-17 6-12 5-13

7-18 7-10 7-4

68

ESSAY

I.

BEAMING
BREADTHS OF WARPS AND
Half
Gangs.
I
i

Q
6

I
i

5f

17
i

200

16

14-10 13.6
14-13 13-9

12-6 12-8

11-8

10-13 10

9-8

202
204
206

11-10 10-15 10-2

9-10

14-16 13-12 12-11 11-13 10-17 10-4 9-12

14-19 13-14 12-13 11-15 10-19 10-6

15-2
15-5
15-8

9-13

208
210
212
214?

13-17 12-16 11-17 11-1

14
14-2

10-8

9-15

12-18 12
13
13-3 13-5

11-4
11-6

10-10 9-17
10-12 9-19 10-14 10-1

12-2
12-4

15-11 14-5

11-8

216 218

15-14 14-8

12-6 12-9

11-10 10-16 10-3

11-12 10-18 10-5
10-7 10-8

15-17 14-10 13-8

16

220
222 224 226 228

14-l a 13-10 12-11 11-14 11

14-16 13-13 12-13 11-16 11-2

14-18 13-15 12-16 11-18 11-4

15-1

10-10
10-12 10-14

13-18 12-18 12-1

14
13

11-6 11-8

15-4

12-3

230
232

15-6
15-9

14-3 14-5

13-2

12-5
12-7

11-10 10-16
11-12 10-18

13-5
13-7

234 236
238

15-12 14-8

12-9

11-14 11

15-14 14-10 13-9

12-11 11-16 11-2

15-17 14-12 13-12 12-13 11-18 11-4

16

240
242 244

14-15 13-14 12-16 12

14-17 13-16 12-18 12-2
15

11-5
11-7 11-9

13-18 13
14-1

12-4
12-6 12-8

246
248

15-2

13-2
13-4

11-11

15-5

14-3

11-13

PLAIN WEAVING.
TABLE.
NUMBERS OF THE RAVELS.
Half Gangs.
9
8
i i

67

9 6

5
4-

2
I

2
8
i

200
202
204

8-17

8-8

7-12 7-5
7-13
7-6
7-8

6-19 6-13 5-14

7
7-1

8-19
9-1

8-10 8-1
8-11 8-3

6-14 5-15
6-16 5-16

7-15

206
208

9-3

8-13 8-4

7-16 7-9 7-18 7-11

8 8-1

7-3

6-17 5-17

9-4

8-15 8-6

7-4
7-6

6-18 5-18
7
7-1

210
212

9-6 9-8

8-16 8-8
8-18 8-9
8-11

7-12
7-14 7-15 7-17 7-18
8 8-1

6
6-1

7-7 7-8

2H
.216

9-10 9
9-12 9-1
9-13
9-3

8-3

7-2

6-2
6-3

8-12 8-4

7-10 7-4
7-11 7-5

218

8-14 8-6
8-16
8-7
8-9

6-4 6-5 6-6

220
222

9-15
9-17
'

9-5

7-13

7-6

9-6

8-17

7-14 7-8 7-15 7-9

7-17
7-18
8
8-1

224
226
228

9-19 9-8
10

8-19 8-10 8-2 8-12 8-4

8-13
8-15
8-5

6-8

9-10 9 9-12 9-2

9-13 9-4

7-10 6-9
7-12 6-10
7-13 6-11 7-14 6-12

10-2
10-4 10-6
10-8 10-9

230
232 234
236

8-7

9-15 9-5 9-17 9-7

9-18 9-8

8-16 8-8 8-18

8-10

8-2 8-4 8-5

8-6 8-8
8-9

7-16 6-13
7-17 6-14 7-18 6-16
8 8-1

8-19 8-11 8-13

238

10-11 10

9-10 9-1 9-12 9-2

9-13
9-4

240 242 244 246

248

10-13 10-2 10-15 10-3 10-16 10-5

8-14
8-16 8-17 8-18
9

6-17
6-18
6-19
7
7-1

9-15 9-5

8-2

10-18 10-7
11

9-16 9-7
9-18 9-8

8-11

8-4

10-8

8-12 8-5

68

ESSAY

r,

BEAMING
BREADTHS OF WARPS AND
Half Gangs.
I

i i i 6

i 3 i 6

7 8

i
J-

4 4

I 7 i 6

250

1 -

15-7

14-5

13-6
13-8

12-10 11-15 12-12 11-17

252 254
256
258

15-10 14-8
-

15-12 14-10 13-10 12-14 11-19

15-15 14-12 13-13 12-16 12

15-17 14-14 13-15 12-18 12-2
16
-

T -

260 262 264

266 268

14-17 13-17 13 14-19 13-19 13-2

15-1
14-1

12-4
12-6 12-8

r
-

13-4
13-6

15-4

14-3

12-10
12-12

15-6 15-8

14-5
14-8

13-8

270

13-10 12-14

272
274

15-10 14-10 13-12 12-16

15-13 14-12 13-14 12-17 15-15 14-14 13-16 12-19 15-17 14-16 13-18 13-1
16
-

276
278

280

14-18 14
15 14-2 14-4 14-6 14-8

13-3
13-5

282 284 286

288
-

15-2
15-5 15-7 15-9

13-7
13-9
13-11

L -

290

14-10 13-12

292
294
296
298

15-11 14-12 13-14

15-13 14-14 13-16

15-15 14-16 13-18

15-17 14-18 14

PLAIN WEAVING.
TABLE.
NUMBERS OF THE RAVELS.
Half Gangs.
9
"8 i
i

69

I 0"

I'6

6 4

250
252
-254

11-2 11-4
11-5

10-10 10 10-12 10-1

10-13 10-3
10-15 10-4 10-17 10-6

9-10 9-1
%7 mm
J. j^j

8-13 8-6

7-2

9-3

8-15 8-8 8-16 8-9

8-18 8-10

7-4 7-5

9-13

9-4
9-6
9-7

256 258
-260

11-7

9-15
9-16 9-18

11-9

8-19 8-12 7-7

9

11-11 10-18 10-8

9-9

8-13

7-8

262

11-12 11

10-9

9-19 9-10 9-2

9-12 9-3 9-13
9-5

8-14 7-9
8-16 7-10

264 266
268

11-14 11-2
11-16 11-4
11-18 11-5
12
12-1

10-11 10-1

10-12 10-2
10-14 10-4 10-16 10-5
10-17 10-7

8-17 7-12
8-18 7-13
9
9-1

9-14 9-6
9-16
9-17
9-7

270

11-7
11-9

7-14
7-15

272

9-9

274
276
-278

12-3

11-10 10-19 10-8

11-12 11

9-19 9-10 9-2

7-16 7-17
7-18
8

12-5
12-7 12-8

10-10 10
10-11 10-2

9-12 9-4
9-13 9-5

11-14 11-2 11-15 11-4

280
282

10-13 10-3

9-14 9-6
9-16 9-8
9-17 9-9

12-10 11-17 11-5

12-12 11-19 11-7
.

10-14 10-5 10-16 10-6

10-17 10-8

8-1

284
286
288

8-2

12-14 12 12-16 12-2

12-17 12-4
s

11-8

9-18 9-10 8-3

10

1.1-10 10-19 10-9

9-12 9-13

8-4
8-5

290 292
294
296
298

11-12 11 11-13 11-2 11-15 11-4

10-10 10-1
10-12 10-3 10-13 10-4 10-15 10-5 10-16 10-7

12-19 12-5
13-1

9-14 8-6

12-7

9-16 8-8 9-17 8-9

9-18

13-3

12-9

11-16 11-5

13-4

12-10 11-18 11-7

8-10

ESSAY

I.

BEAMING
BREADTHS OF WARPS AND
Half Gangs.
T

i i I 6

i "6

I 5 i <5

4 4

I 7
i

300
302

'

16
-

15 15-2

14-2

-'

14-4
14-6 14-8

304
306
308

15-4
15-6

15-8

14-9

310
312

J-

15-10 14-11 15-12 14-13 15-14 14-15

15-16 14-17 15-18 14-19
16
-

314
316

318

320
322

-.

15-1

15-3 15-4 15-6

324
326 328

*
m -

mm

15-8

330 332
334

<ri

15-10
15-12

15-14
15-16 15-18
16
-

336
38

340
342

"

344

346
348

r -

"
1

PLAIN WEAVING.
TABLE.
NUMBERS OF THE RAVELS.
Half Gangs.
2.
2
i I

>r

71

1
i

300
302 304 306
308

13-6

12-12 12

11-8

10-18 10-8

10
1

8-11

13-8

12-14 12-

11-10 10-19 10-10 1011-11 11-1

8-12
8-13

13-10 12-16 12-

10-11 10- 2

13-12 12-17 1213-13 12-19 1213-15 13-1

1212- 9

11-13 11-2

10-12 10- 4

8-14
8-16
8-17

11-14 11-4
11-1

10-14 10- 6
10-15 10- 6
10-17 10- 8

310
312

11-5

13-17 13-2 13-19 13-4

14

11-17 11-6

8-18
8-19

314
316
318

12- 11
1212121212-

11-19 11-8
11-9

10-18 10- 9

13-6 13-7

12 12 14 12-2 16 12-3
17 12-5

10-19 10- 10 9
10- 12 9-1
10- 13 10- 14
10- 16 10- 17
10- 1*

14-2

11-11 11-1

320
322 324 326
328

14-4

13-9
13-11

11-12 11-2
11-14 11-4

9-2

14-6
14-8 14-9

9-4
9-5 9-6
9-7

13-12

19 12-6
12-8

11-15 11-5
11-17 11-6 11-18 11-8
11-9

13-14 13
13-

14-11 13-16

2
4

12-9

330
332

14-13 13-17 13

12-11 12

11
11. 1

14-15 13-19 13 14-16 14-1

13 13

5
7

12-12 12-1
12-14 12-2
12-4 12-5
12-7 12-8

11-10
11-12 11-13 11-15 11-16

334
336
338

11- c l
-

9-10
9-12

14-18 14-2
15

14-4
14-6

8 12-16 13 10 12-17
13
13

11. -4

11. -5
11.

9-13
9-14 9-15 9-16

340

15-2

12 12-19
13 13-2

S
-8 -9

342
344
346
348

15-4 15-5 15-7

14-7 14-9

13 13 15

11-17 11

12-10 11-19 11
12-11 12

14-11 13 -16 13-3

11 -10 9-17

15-9

14-13 13 -1

13-5

12-13 12-2

11 -12 9-1

72
The
weavers,

ESSAY
only other table,
is

IJ

generally used

by

operative-

that for setting the heddles, so as to corre-

spond with the reed.

Few
to

weavers are in possession of

a sufficient variety of heddles, to suit every reed in

which

they
a

may be employed
set,

weave
to

cloth.

Therefore,

when
any

weaver receives a warp,

if

be woven in

a reed of

particular

he has no heddles of the same fineness,

to,

he selects those, nearest

and

finer

than the reed,

The supernumerary

heddles are then to be set aside, at

regular intervals, so that the breadth of the warp, in the

heddles, and in the reed,

may be
a

the same.

For example, suppose that

weaver may receive a 1400

has- a set of heddles,

web, of any breadth, and that he

calculated to
this case,
it

weave
is

1600 web of the same breadth.

In

plain, that

200 of

his heddles

must be
apparent,
at

set aside.

little

reflection will also

make

it

that these

supernumerary heddles must be

set aside

equal intervals, as nearly as can be effected, for were the

whole

set aside in

one place, the breadth of the warp, in

its

the heddles, would differ materially from the reed.

breadth

in'

But

it is

important, that the breadth of a warp

should be as nearly equal as possible, in every part of

the loom.

For,

if it is

not, the threads

,

which form the

and those which

warp, will not be parallel to each other

have the greatest obliquity will be more stretched than

the rest.

Therefore,

when

a finer set of heddles

is

to

be adapted to a coarser reed, the superfluous heddles,

which
and

are not to be filled with warp,

are divided, as
filled
5

equally as possible,
this is called

among

those which are to be

setting

by weavers

of heddles.
set,

In the example quoted, 200 heddles are to be

order to reduce the

in
to*

number of

the heddles (1600)

\

correspond with the number of the reed (1400)

and

PLAIN WEAVING.
these

73
must be
are to

200 heddles which

are to

be

set aside,

placed, at equal intervals,

filled

among
is

the 1400

which

with warp.

This, also,

merely a case of direct

proportion

As
So

the

number of heddles
number
to

to be set

Is to the
is

be

filled,

= =
= =

200
1400
1

one heddle to be

set

To
From
and one

the

number

to be filled

7
filled,

this, it will

appear that -7 heddles are to be

set aside, or left

empty, in rotation through the

whole breadth of the web.

As both

the heddles and

reed are calculated on the same breadth, the process will

be the same for

all

breadths of warp.
is

And

as

one of the

middle terms of the proportion

practice will be,
1st,

unity, the rules for

SubstraCt the

number of

the reed from the

number

of the heddles.
the

The

difference, or remainder, will be

to be set.
to

number of heddles number

2d, Divide the

as the

number

be

filled,

which

is

the same

of the reed, by the

number

to be set,

and

the quotient will be the answer.

But
to
to

it

frequently happens, that the

will not exactly
:

number of heddles

be
be

set,

measure the number which are

left.

filled

that

is

to say, that a remainder will be

When
to set

this occurs, the

remainder

is

to be

added to the
be required

figures in the quotient.

For example,

let it

1300 heddles
is

to a

1050 reed.

In this case, the

difference

5 half hundreds, and the

is

sum

of the half-

hundreds in the reed

21

21: therefore,

r5=
filled,

4 and there remains

1 is to

1.

Now,

this

remainder of
every

be added to the number

of heddles to be
are to be filled
to

fifth

time; therefore, 4 heddles

and

1 set,

4 times successively, and 5 are

be

filled

and

1 set,

the fifth time.

74
It is

ESSAY
not frequent

I.

now

to construct reeds of any other

if a

numbers than hundreds and half hundreds, but

reed

of a different number, say, for example, 940, or 9 hun-

dreds and 2 porters, should be sometimes used*, in

case,

this-

both the sum and difference must be reduced to

porters,

and the operation

to set

will then

be the same as before.

to a 94*0 reed:

For example,

1100 heddles
is

the

sum
47

of the porters in the reed

is

47, and the difference

in porters
4<

therefore,

5,

and 7 remain; therefore

fill

6 heddles

7 times, and 5 heddles once.

In the above

examples,

the
it

calculations have been

is

made

for "single heddles, but

necessary to observe,

that both in filling

and setting the heddles, one heddle on

each leaf

is

to be understood.

Tables similar to the following, have

different publications-.

appeared in

In regular business, the greater

part of

them

will never
it

be used, for as heddles

may be

set so easily,

appears unnecessary to have them con-

structed to every single porter.

Indeed, heddles are most

generally constructed to consist of even hundreds, and

even the reeds, as formerly observed, are seldom divided

more minutely than

It

into half hundreds.

may be

necessary, however, that very coarse reeds

porters*,

should contain odd

their

and that the differences of

respective sets should advance

by small degrees.
and one of
as great

For the difference between

a reed of 400,

420

splits is

^th; and

this will, of course,

make

a relative difference as that between 1000 and 1050, or

between 2000 and 2100.

For

this reason,

the Table

has been inserted upon a more copious scale than will

be generally necessary, and will meet almost every case

which can possibly occur

in

any species of weaving.

SETTING TABLE,

76
Heddles.

ESSAY
Reed.
!

I.

Draughts, Times. Heddles.

Reed.

Draughts,Time^

H. 5

P.

H.

Z>.

Z>.

T.
1

Z).

T.

H. p.

H. P.
5 5 5 5
1

D.

T.

Z).

T\
1

4 4
4
1

4 5
7
11

6
6
8
1
1

1 1 1 1

4
1

6
7

5
5
5

6 6 6
6

2
3

6 9
14

3
1
1

2
3

2
1 1

2 10
1

4 4
1

12

15

5 o

4
1

24
4
5 7

6 5
5

30
2
3

10
3

4 4 4 4
5

4
2
1
1 1

6 6 6

2 2 2

5
5

1 1 1
1

2
3

6
8

2 2

7
9

10
1
1

10

5
5 5 5 5 5
5

12

6
6 5

2
2
3

6
6
5 5
1

15

25
2
3

31
5

2 2 2
2

4
5 8

3
1

2
3

2
3
1

6
8

3
1

4
4
5 5

6 6

3 3

1 1

6
6
1

10
15

12
1

13

6
6

3
3

1 1
1

16

2
3
3

26 4
6 8

6
5

2
4

32
5
7

5 5 5
5
5

4
4
5 5 5

2
1

6 6

4 4

6
8

4
2

6
6 6 6
5 5 5
1
1

2 2
1

2
1
1

4
4 4

10
16

111
Q

3
3

13

2
3

2 4

27
4 6

6
5
7

33
2 2
3

5
5 5

4 4

4
5 5 5

4
1

7
7 7 7 7 7

5
1

3
3

5
8

3
1

4
4 4

2
1

2
3

5
1 1

5 5 6 6 6
6

2
3

13

1
1

14

5
5

4 4 6

5 5 5 5 5 5

28
5

6
6 6 6
1

10
1

6
9*

2
1 1
1

7
7 7

8
11

2
3

2
3

10
16

1
1
1

2
1

14

17

29

7
i

34

PLAIN WEAVING.
i

77
Draughts >,Times

Heddles.

Reed.

Drau grits Times. Heddles.

,
!

Reed.

H. P.
7
1
1 1

H.
5 5
5

p.
1

D.

r.

Z>.

T.

H. P.
7
7

PL p.
5

D. T. D. T.

2
3 3

4
1

4 4
4

2
3

9
3

7
7

2
3

6 6
1

6
1

4 4
5

4
6
1

4
5

4
1

7 4
3

1
1 1

4
5

7
7

4 4
4 4 4

2
3

4
5

3 3
1 1

7
7

6
6 6 6
1

6
6
7 7 7
7

6
7 9

6
8 11

4
1
1

7 7 7 7 7

6
8

4
3

7
7 7

1
1

2
3

12
18

1 1 1
1

1 1

6
7 5 5
5

17

4
4

2
3

19

7 7 7 7

38
4 4
5

2
3

2
3
3

O 8 3

7
1

8 8 8 8

6 6

2
3

2
2 2

4
4
5

6
7

4
1

2
1

7
7

4
1

5
5

2
1

2
2

6 6 6

5 6 8
11

6
7

8 8
8
8

7
7 7

2
3

12
19

2 13
1 1

7
7 7 7 7

2
3

3 3

2
1

2
2

4 2
3

39
3 3

6
7
7

2 12
1
1

1
1

2
2 2

6 6

8
3

2
6

2
2
3
3 3 3 3

17
1

18

8 8

4
5

36
2
3

6
7 7 7 7 7 7 7
7

4
5

4
1 1

7 7 7 7

2
7

8
8

2 2
2

4
4

2 6
3

6
7 8

3
1

2
2|
3

2
3

4
5 6
8 11

4 4
2
2
1
1
1

8
8

2
2 2

7
7 7 7
7
7

6 6
6
7 7 7

2
3

6
7

2
3

9
13
3

2 10
1
1

3
3

9 12

9 9 9 9
i
I

3
3
3

4 4
5
!

18

7 7

2
-"2

3
1

5
Q

37

ESSAY
Heddles.

I.

Reed.

Drau ghts Times. Heddles.

,

Reed.

Draughts ,Times

H. P.

H.
7 7

P.

Z>.

T.

D. T.

H.
11

P.

H.

P.

D. T. D. r.

4
3

3 3
1

10 10

17

2 18
1

4
1

11 11

21 21
3

9
9

8 8 8 8
8

10 14
17

3 11
1

10

26
54
3

27

11

10
9
9
9

1
1

9 9
9

%
3

1
1
1

12

21

22

12

3 10

4 3 4

4
5

4
1

44
4
5

12
5
5

4
3

8
1
1

10 10 10

o o

4
6 2 6

12
12

9
9

2\
3

8
8 8 8

2
2|
3

6
5
7

2
1 1

4
5
5

o
o o

6
6
7
11

12 12 12
12

4
1

5
3

4
6
7

6 6 4

10 10
10 10 10 10 10
11
11

10
10

4
1

2
2 2

2
2j

6
7

4
1

9
9

2 12
1 1
1

10
10 10
11 11 11 11
11

15
19

12 12

3
1

9 9 9
8
8 8 8 8

4
3

4
1

24 49
3

12 12

14
19

1
1

12

25 23
3

1
1

3 13

2
4 4

12 12
13 13

29
59
3

11

2
9i r5
3

3 10

11
11
11
11

3 5

2
7

10

2 9
1

4
3

5
1 1

10
10

4
4 4 4

13
5
1 1

2 21
3

9 9
9 9 9 9
1

4
5 5 6
61

13
13 13 13

10 10

4
7

5 5

11
11

8
1

6
6
7
7

5
1

2
21
3

7
1

10
11 11
11

5 10 6
1

4
5

11 11 11
11

2
1

6
1

13
13

6
7
8

7
8
7

2
1

4
1

5
1

9
13

2
21

10

12

13

11

PLAIN WEAVING.
Heddles.

79
Drau ght! Times
,

Reed.

Draughts , Times. Heddles.

Reed.

H. 13 13 13

P.

H. P.
11

Z>.

T.

D. T.

H.

P.

H.
11

P.

D.
3

T.

D. T.

5
1

9
10

2
5
1

15
15 15

2i
3

2
7 5

11

4
1

11
11

3 10

4
3

12

15

3 16
1 1
1 1

4 11 4
1

13

12
12 12

20

21

15 15

12
12
12 13 13
2'

13 13
13

91 25
3

5 10
5
i i

31

32

15
15

Or

12

64
3

6 2

7
8

14
14 14 14

10
10
10
1

15

9
9

3
1 1

3 13

15 15 16

13 14
11 11

n %
2|

2
2\
3

3 16 3
1

?* 29 2
3
3

10

4
5
1

14
14
14 14 14
14

10
10
11 11 11 11

3 15
3 10

4
4 4

2 6 2

16 16

12
12
13

3
1

1 1

16 16

4 4

4 2
3

3 5

3
1

4
5 5

2
2|
3

5
3

16
16

13

<2\

6
9

2
1

4 4
6
7 7

2
2
4
7

14 15
12 12 13 13

2^ 10
^a 31
3

2
1

14 14
14

11
11

5 10 5 7

16
17

4
1

2
7
3

2 2

12
12 12 12
12
13

6
8 8

2 6 2
1

17
17 17
17

n
2i

2
1

14
14

2
2-1

2
1

4
3

4
5

1
1 1

14 14
14

14 14 15 15 14
2|
2

4
4
1

4
1

10
16

2 11 2 17 2 23
1

4
1 1

17

6
8

5 7

17
17

1
1

14
14

13
13
11

22

10
3

2 11
1
1

2\ 27
3

18

4
4

15

18
18

14
15

<^a

5
5

6
ft

15

11

3 15

80
Having

fesSAY

I.

finished the foregoing general account of the

it

nature and process of plain weaving,

now becomes

necessary to pay some attention to the fanciful and orna-

mental department of the business.

goods,

many

descriptions are

woven

in

Of ornamental the common loom,

little,

without any additional apparatus, and with

variation,

if

any,

from the process of weaving plain

cloths.
is

The

extent to

which

this species of

manufacture

carried,

renders

it

an object of very great importance, and the

is

variation, in the operative part of the process,

so small,

that

it

may be

introduced under the description of plain

little

weaving, with

violation of arrangement.

As

the thickness of the fabric in plain cloth, depends

fineness of the yarn bears
it

upon the proportion which the

to the measure, or
set;

of the reed;

follows, that

if

yarns

of different degrees of fineness are introduced,

intervals, into the

at regular

same web, two

distinct fabrics will

be

produced, and that the appearance of these will be

ferent

dif-

when the web is finished. Yarns of different colours may also be introduced and when either of these
;

is

practised, the goods are called

STRIPES.

Stripes

are

formed upon

cloth, either

by the warp, or

by the woof.

When

the former of these

ways

is

prac-

tised, the variation of process is chiefly the business

of

the warper:

in the latter case,

it

is

that of the weaver.

In extensive

manufactories,

where large quantities of

to be

striped goods of the

is

same description are

stripes in the

made,

it

common

to

form the

warping, because in

this case, the stripes

and their distances from each other,

will be

uniform ;* which cannot be, always, relied upon,

when

the stripes are formed by the weft.

PLAIN WEAVING.
In warp stripes, where the colour
difference
either
is

81

is

the same, and the

in the fabric, the effect

may be produced,
by drawing
a given

by using yarns of

different fineness, or

a greater quantity of

warp through
stripes

number of

heddles or

splits,

where the

are to be formed.

For example, two or more threads may be drawn through

the same heddle, or three or

more

heddlefuls

may be drawn
be

through the same

split

or, thirdly, if the stripe is to

very thick, both these ways

Fig. 8. Plate 4.

may be

adopted.

represents a stripe in the

way they
called one

are generally

drawn by manufacturers,
this, the

as guides to the

warper.

Of

portion from

to

is

set of the stripe,

because the same pattern, repeated sucall

cessively, will

form

the stripes in the breadth of the

web.

Suppose then, that a warp striped according to

warper: his
first

this pattern, is delivered to the

care will

be to examine the pattern, and ascertain the number of

splits

which each description of warp

are to be
to

is

to occupy,

and

the

number of threads which

splits.

drawn between each

be marked upon the

two

These ought, always, which he

ticket, or pattern,

receives.

For example,

let

the stripe Fig. 8. be supposed to be formed of

blue, and the ground, or intervals

warp dyed
stripes,

between the

of

white, one set of the pattern will then be

Blue

splits

11113
3
3
3

Total 10
9 Total 33

White

splits

Thus
43

it

appears, that one set of this stripe consists of

splits,

of which 33 are white, and 10 blue; and sup-

posing the whole to be drawn, with one thread in each

heddle, and

two

in each split,

86 bobbins will be required;

of which, 66 will be white, and 20 blue.

With

this

number, properly disposed in the bank and heck, every

ESSAY
time that the mill
is

I.

run from the upper to the lower pins, and the same
in returning; or every
sets of the pattern.-

will produce one set,

complete mill gang will form two

But,
if

the warper should not have so

many

bobbins, he
preserve

must

limit his operation to

one half of the

set, to

the regularity of the stripe.

The

process will, of course,

stripes,

be considerably more tedious; but, in warping

this

inconvenience

is

unavoidable.

Again,
his

if

he has a

sufficient supply of bobbins,

and

if

bank and heck are

large

enough

to contain the

number, he may warp with

a set and a half, or 129 bobbins,

which

will save

much
is

time, as each mill gang will produce three sets of the

pattern.
as under:

The arrangement

for each of these

modes,

Blue Bobbins

2
3
|

2
3

6
6

2 6

White Bobbins 18 6 6
1st \ set.

18

18

6
set.

2d

\ set.
in

3d |

The above

explanation of the

way

which warpers

arrange their bobbins to form stripes, will apply to the

greater part of patterns generally adopted; for a certain

degree of regularity, in almost every species of orna-

mental decoration,
effect,

is

found to produce a more pleasing

It

than the most unbounded variety.

often hap-

pens, however, that stripes of different forms are

com-

bined in the same web.

When

this is the

case, the

warper must cut away

his ends,

and change the arrangesets,

ment of

his bobbins,

still

forming his pattern by

or

half sets, as often as

Patterns

may be necessary. depend so much on the fancy

of the

manu-

facturer, or the purchaser, that

no further rule can be

given for warping stripes.

Study and practice alone, will

render a warper expert in this part of his business.

PLAIN WEAVING.
In warp stripes,
part, to
it

83

is

only necessary, on the weaver's

be careful to have his warp drawn through the

his loom, agreeably to the pattern:
is

mounting of
additional
coarse, or
rest.

little

care

also required

in dressing,

that

the

dyed yarn, may be

as fully

smoothed

as the

When
of

the stripes are to be formed across the

web by

the woof, the weaver

must have a

shuttle for every kind

woof which
at

is

to

be inserted, and must be careful to

change these
Figs. 5, 6,

proper intervals, according to the pattern.

7.

and

Plate 3. represent portions of a fly-lay

adapted for two shuttles, which

necessary.
Fig.. 5. is a

may be

shifted
lay,

when

ground plan of the

with two

sets of boxes,

which

are shifted at pleasure,

by means of

two

cranks, connected

by

a rod, or wire, passing along

the upper shell of the lay.

rod,
left
is

Near

to the

middle of
shifts

this

a small handle,

which the weaver

with his

hand,

when

the boxes are to be changed.

Fig. 6. is

a front elevation of

one

set of the boxes, to

show how
repre-

they are hung from centres above.

driver a small cord
is

To

the back of each

attached, a part of

which

is

sented in the figure.

passing

The

other end of this cord, after

is

under a small pully,

.of

fastened to a spring

(generally a piece

cane, or whalebone), fixed to the

cape of the loom, and serves to pull back the driver, in

order to allow the boxes to
elevation, or section, of the
letters,
shift.

Fig. 7.

is

a profile

same boxes.

The

reference
4.

as

usual,

denote the same parts as in Fig.

Lays upon the same, or similar plans, may be constructed with

difference

more boxes, when necessary j and the whole

this

between

method of working

stripes
at

and

plain weaving, consists in changing the

intervals,

woof

proper

84
When
webs

ESSAY
are striped

I.

&c.
also

by the warp, and

by the

weft, they are called

CHECKS.

The

patterns of checks
in the

may be

either

similar,
is

or

dissimilar,

warp and weft.

The former

the

most prevalent. Checks being merely combinations of the

two methods of
and

striping, require

no further description %
a

as they contain

most frequently

mixture of colours,
taste

their beauty depends

more upon the

skill

and fancy of

the manufacturer, and the

that of the weaver,

of the dyer, than

is

upon

whose business

merely to make

the cloth of a good quality, and insert his weft according

to his pattern.

Stripes and checks are manufactured in great quantities

from
silk,

all

the different materials, especially from woollen,

and cotton.

When

the patterns of checks differ at

the borders, from the middle, or

bosom of
It is

the web, they

are called shawls, or handkerchiefs.

to

very

common
left

weave these with borders

In this case,

only, the

bosom being
is

plain.

the check

work

only at the

corners, the rest of the four borders appearing as stripes,

two by the warp, and two by the weft.

ESSAY
ON THE

II.

WEAVING OF TWEELED CLOTH.

r^HIS
-*-

species of weaving, which, probably, derives

its

name from
is

the French

word

touaille>

is,

almost

exclusively,

confined to
it

thick fabrics of cloth.

it

The

application of
in the
It

very extensive, and

is

much used

manufacturing of cloth from each kind of material*

possesses also this advantage, that, besides forming a

it is

species of ground,

applicable to an infinite variety of

ornamental decoration.
of these properties,
ourselves.

To

the investigation of the

for the present,

first

we

will,

confine

In analysing the fabric of plain cloth,

it

has been

shown, that every thread of the warp and of the woof,

cross each other,

and are tacked together

alternately.

This

is

not the case in tweeling, for in this manufacture

fifth, sixth,

only the third, fourth,

&c. threads cross each

cloths have been

other to form the texture.

fabricated of

Tweeled

many

different descriptions.
is

In the coarsest

kinds, every third thread

crossed: in finer fabrics, they

cross each other at intervals of 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8, threads;

and in some very

fine

tweeled

silks,

the crossing does not

take place until the 16th interval.

88
what

ESSAY
it

II.

Before proceeding further,

is

may be

proper to explain

known, among weavers, by the appellation of

flushing.

When
is

any thread, or portion, whether of warp

or woof,

not regularly interwoven with the fabric, as

is

in plain weaving, that thread, or portion of threads,

said to be flushed.

By

referring to Fig. 2. Plate 4. this

will be better illustrated than

by any

description.
as

Jn Fig.

1.

which was referred

it

to

a specimen of
a

plain cloth, as

would appear when viewed through

microscope, the intersections of the threads are evidently

alternate.

Fig. 2.

may be

considered as a representation
1.

of tweeled cloth, upon the same principle that Fig.

represents plain cloth.

This figure will show, that the

flushed, or disengaged
is

same thread of woof remains

from

the warp, while passing over three threads, and

tacked

down by

passing under the fourth.

Now

were

this cloth

turned upside down, the same appearance would take

place in the warp.

That

is

to say, every fourth thread

of warp would be interwoven with the woof, and the

remaining three threads would be flushed.

An

inspection

of the figure will also evince, that the threads, both of

the warp and woof, are interwoven in regular succession,

and

at regular intervals.

To
is

produce these

effects, a

number of

leaves of heddles

required, equal to the

number

of threads contained in

the interval between each intersection, inclusive.

Thus,

when

every third thread

if

is

to

be interwoven, three leaves

are required;

every sixth thread, six leaves will be

all

necessary, and so of

the others.

For

this reason, the

different species of tweels are distinguished

by the num-

ber of leaves which are requisite in weaving them; as a

four, a five, or

six leafed tweel,

&c.

The specimen

in

Fig. 2.

is

a four leafed tweel.

TWEELING.
TTweeling
ing of cloths
is,

87
.to

In

many

instances, applied,

the weav-

which require a great portion of strength,

thickness, and durability.

For instance,
tion of

in the linen manufacture, every descrip-

bed and

table linen,

is

generally tweeled; some-

times with ornaments, and sometimes without them.

the
silk,

In
it

tweeling

is

very

common.

Sometimes

is

employed

for the sake of strength, but,

more frequently,
is

for the display of colour.

In the woollen, strength

it

the general object-, and in the cotton,

is

most com-

monly the same.

It

may be

necessary in this place, to inquire shortly

into the causes

plain,

which render tweeled cloths stronger than

and to ascertain the difference.

In so far as the strength of tweeled cloths depends

solely

on the mode of weaving, that strength

will

be

rather diminished than increased,

plain
cloth,

when compared with

every

containing
For,
in the

an equal quantity of similar

texture of plain cloth,

materials.

thread

is

constantly interwoven ; whilst in that of tweels,

they are only interwoven at intervals.

case, the threads can derive

Now,

in the latter

no mutual support from each

other, except at the intervals

where they
is

are interwoven 5

and that part of them which

entirely

flushed,

must depend

on the strength of the individual threads; those

of the warp being flushed upon one side, and those of

the weft upon the other.

The
in

following inference will naturally arise from this

Let two webs of equal length, equal breadth, and equal

the quantity, quality, and fineness of the yarn, be

woven.

Let the

first

be plain, and the second tweeled.

The

quantity, quality, and fineness of the materials being

equal, their strength ought to be so also.

But,

if

by

88
strength^

ESSAY
we

II.

understand that quality, which opposes the

most

effectual,

and most continued resistance to the

decay of cloth, from

(if

common

wearing; the tweeled

web
idea

equally used)

Would be

in tatters, long before the

plain

one was materially injured.

This

is

the

commonly, although
strength,

inaccurately, attached to the

word

when

applied to the fabric of cloth; and, in-

deed, the above remark will not be found universally

true, for the durability of cloth, exposed only to

common

wearing, depends partly upon

its

strength,

and partly

upon

its

flexibility.

It is not, therefore,

in the effect of the mechanical

facility

operation,

but in the

of combining a greater

quantity of materials in the same dimensions, which this

we are to look for superior This may be easily illustrated. strength or durability. When the shed of any web is opened, every thread either
mode
of weaving affords, that

above or below the thread of woof which has been driven

through the web, will oppose a certain resistance to the

operation of the lay in driving the shot

home; and the

sum of all these resistances will be the whole resistance. Now, in plain weaving, every thread is interwoven, and
therefore, opposes
its

portion of resistance ; whereas, in a

is

four

leafed twee/,

every fourth thread only

interwoven,

and, of course, gives resistance.

The

ratio of resistance,

therefore, will be inversely in proportion to the

number

of leaves in the tweel, compared with unity. In the warp, the friction in the reed will be diminished
in

the

same proportion;
its

for

each thread, instead of

changing

place at every shot, changes only once in

every four shots.

Consequently,

much more warp

may-

be crowded

into' the

same space without

injury, than

could be done in plain weaving.

TWEELING.
From
what
less

89
deduce, that the

the

above,

we may

safely

strength, or durability, of a tweeled

web

will be

someit

than the proportion of the materials which

contains will be to that of a plain web, supposing each

to be of equal strength

and

quality.
is

But,

when

the fabric

very

close,

tweeled cloth
in
is

possesses
durability.

another advantage

over plain,
plain cloth

point

of

When

the

warp of

very

much

crowded

in the reed,

and the weft driven very closely

cross each other altertheir natural

home, the threads,

nately,

in order to

must deviate very materially from

is

form, which

in a straight line

whereas,

when woven, when comand

they become serpentine.

liable to

This renders the cloth very

be

easily cut, or chafed, especially

posed of hard,

and comparatively
chiefly

inflexible materials.

This defect
arises

is

observable in stout linens,

from the

inelastic,

and

inflexible

nature of the

fibres of the flax.

But,

when

tweeled, as the threads

only cross at intervals, the deviation from the straight

line

much less, and the flexibility of the cloth, of consequence, much greater. The same general remarks, which have been given in
is

the

1st.

Essay, apply, almost equally well, to the opera-

tions of the weaver, in all descriptions of weaving.

varieties consist chiefly in the

The

modes of mounting the

is

looms.

Our next

consideration, therefore,

the

MOUNTING OF LOOMS FOR TWEELING.

As
almost every variety of fanciful weaving
in
is

effected
is

by the order and succession,

which the weft

inter-

woven with

the warp, the principal difference, in

is in

mount-

ing the looms,

the

number and arrangement of the

90

ESSAY

II.

leaves of heddles, and the apparatus for

leaves.

moving

these*

In weaving plain cloth, the jacks, represented in

sufficiently
is

Fig. 3. Plate 3. at F, answer the purpose

well, because the raising and sinking, of every thread

alternate.

But, in the weaving of tweels, and

other kinds of fanciful and ornamental cloth, the

many number

of leaves

is,

generally, greater \

and these leaves are to be

raised, or

sunk in a succession, which

may be sometimes
neces-

regular, and, in other cases, not.

sary, that the

It is, therefore,

mounting of the loom should be adapted

it

to the

purpose for which

is

intended; and as the suc-

cession of

moving the

leaves,

by means of the

treddles,

may
leaf

frequently vary, the mounting which connects every

with the treddle, and from which

its

motion

is

de-

rived,

must be such,
all

that the leaf

may be

raised, or sunk,

independent of

the others.

representation of the

mechanism used
Plate 5.

for this purpose, will be

found

in Fig. I.

In this figure, four leaves of heddles are represented at

C-,

perpendicularly above which, are four levers moving

at

upon centres
levers at

B.

From one end

is

of each of these

A,

a leaf of the heddles

suspended by the

two

(obliquely placed) cords

shown

in the figure.

These
cord

cords, meeting
to pass
fast to

below the

lever, continue as a single

through
it.

a groove in its end,

and

are, then,

made

Below

the heddles, are

two

sets of marches,

consisting of four marches each,

which

are moveable at

the centres

by the

F and I. The long marches are distinguished Each of the letter E the short marches by G.
*,

four long marches,

is

connected with the end of the corre-

sponding top levers

at

each short march

is

connected
it

with the lower shaft of the leaf of heddles^ to which

is

to give motion.

TWEELING.
Now,
pulled
as each of these
it

yi
connected with one
if

marches

is

leaf of the heddles,

follows, that,

a long

march
is

is

down, the

leaf will rise ; if a short

march

pulled

down, the

leaf will sink.

it is

This will be apparent, when

cords, below,

considered, that the

form

a direct connection

between the lower

heddle shafts and the short marches.

Of

course,

when

one of the
with which
motion,

latter is pulled
it

down, those of the former,

is

connected, must sink also.

long

But the
to the

communicated from the

marches

upper
for

shafts, is reversed at the centre

of the top levers

when

the end at

is

pulled down, the end at

will

rise,

and the leaf will be pulled up by the suspending

cords.

These top

levers are

known, among weavers, by

the

name

of conpers. of this apparatus,

The arrangement

although very

simple, ought to be carefully studied, by those

who

are
it

not conversant with the practice of weaving 5 for

is

very generally used, in almost every species of ornamental

work.

The ends

of the top levers, or coupersy at

for the suspending cords,

A,

which contain the grooves

ought
equal

to be segments of a circle, the radius of

to the distance of the groove
at

which

is

from the centre of motion

perpendi-

B, in order that the pull

may be uniformly

cular.
is

The

distance of the centre

B from

the end

D,
B;

generally

made twice

as great as that

from

to

for otherwise, the long

marches would communicate too

If greater accuracy

great a range of motion to the leaves.

is

wanted, the ranges of the different levers, and the

ratio

which they bear

rules,

to

each other,

may be

calculated

by the same

which apply
levers,

to all other motions

com-

municated by means of

and these are explained in

almost every elementary treatise upon mechanics.

92
When the

ESSAY

II.

connections, between the leaves and marches*

it is

have been formed agreeable to the above description,

only necessary to arrange the treddles, and to connect each

treddle with the marches
It is a

which

it is

intended to move.

general rule in fancy weaving, that every indiall

vidual treddle should be connected with

the leaves of

the heddles, for the purpose of raising some, and sinking

the rest.

Some

exceptions to this rule occur, but these

are few, and will be particularly noticed,

to

when

the cases,

which they

relate, are to

be investigated.

The

connecting cords between the marches and treddles,

are applied in the

manner proper for weaving

web, which
This kind of

may be tweeled
are

or plain, as

may be

required.

mounting is, generally, used

for cloths in

which the grounds

woven plain, and

stripes, tweeled
is

by the weft, occasion-

ally introduced.

If the figure

carefully examined, the

connections of each treddle with the marches

distinguished,

may be

easily

by comparing the

lines

which represent the

cords, with the description

which

will be afterwards given.

But, previous to

this,

it

may be

useful to explain the

mode
in

of drawing plans upon paper, to direct the weaver

drawing his warp through the heddles, and of apply-

ing the cords by which these heddles are to be

moved

These plans

are, generally, called the

DRAUGHT AND CORDING.

Plans
of this description

may be

considered as nori?

zontal sections of a loom, for the purpose of' showing

the heddles and treddles.

Although the

treddles, in a
it is

loom, are placed directly under the heddles,

represent

usual to

them

at

one

side,

u^on the paper,

for the sak$

of easier reference from the one to the other.

T.WEELING.
Fig. 2.
is

93
way of drawing and The four leaves of
1

a representation of the

cording a

common

four leaf tweel.

at

the heddles are

shown

C, numbered from
also

to 4,

and

the four treddles at

N,

numbered
them.
it

in the order in

which the weaver

is

to tread

portion
is

of the

warp, as

passes

through the

heddles,

represented at

D, and

the threads of warp,

which pass through the same

connected by cross
lines.

interval of the reed, are

In this case, four threads pass

the threads of

through each

interval.

Where
is

warp

cross

the heddles, the black marks denote the leaf through

which each
it is

particular thread

drawn.

For example,

as

the most convenient

way

for weavers, to

draw

their

warps through the heddles from right

of the figures denoting the warp,
thread
is
is

to left, the order

inverted.

The

first

drawn through the back

leaf,

and so on, suc-

cessively, to the front.

Where

the treddles

cross the

heddles C, the black marks refer to the

mode

of apply-

ing the cords which form the connections between the

marches and treddles, either

to raise or sink the heddles.

Wherever

a black

mark

is

placed,

it

denotes that the

heddle and treddle, which there intersect each other, are

to be connected

by the long marches; that

is

to say, that

the treddle

when

pressed down, must raise that leaf.

When

all

the connections, distinguished by the black

all

marks, have been formed,

the remaining connections

for the treddle

must be made by the short marches*,

which

raises only

one

leaf,

must sink

all

the others.

For

example:

Where
is

the treddle

No.
is

1.

crosses the fourth,

or back leaf, in Fig. 2. there

therefore,
to

a black mark.

A
to

cord,

be carried from the long march under the

first

fourth leaf, to the

ried

treddle j

and cords are

be carleaves,

from the short marches, under the other three

94
to the

ESSAY
same
treddle.

II.

Thus, the treddle No.

first,

J.

when

pressed down, will raise the

the other three.

or back leaf, and sink

2.

The

treddle

No.

when

properly-

corded, will raise the second leaf, and sink the others:
the third treddle will raise the third leaf; and the fourth
treddle, the fourth, or front leaf.
It will

be evident,

upon

consideration, that

if

the weaver presses

down

the

treddles, successively as they are

numbered, he

will raise

every leaf, in succession, from the back to the front; and

at every tread,

one leaf will be raised and three sunk.

with the specimen of tweeled

By comparing

this operation
it

cloth Fig. 2. Plate 4.

will

become obvious,
be produced.

that the

effect there represented, will

Whether a

tweeled web

is

wrought with
is

three, four, or five leaves,

the succession

in the

same order, unless when othereffect.

wise arranged to produce a different

Fig. 3. and 4. Plate 4. are also representations of tweels

of four leaves, and as the fabric of tweeled cloth

rally thick

is

gene-

and

close,
2.

convey
is

a better idea of the appear-

ance than Fig.

which

designed merely to give an

accurate representation of the intersections of the threads.

If

we

suppose that the warp of a tweeled

is

web

is

of white

yarn, and that the weft

black, Fig. 4. Plate 4. will con-

vey a correct idea of the appearance of the upper side of

a web,

woven

in a

loom mounted according

to the plan

Fig. 2. Plate 5.; and Fig. 3. will represent the appearance

of the under side of the same web.

For, in Fig. 3. the

white warp appears flushed, and

is

in Fig. 4. the black

weft

flushed.

Now, were
is

the cording in the plan Fig. 2.

to say,

Plate 5. reversed; that

were three leaves

is

to rise,

and one to
effect

sink,

when each

treddle

pressed down, the

that the

would be quite the same, excepting

upper

side

would then be flushed by the weft, and the under

TWEELING.
side

95
the principle

by the warp.
effected

This reversing of the flushing, which

is

may be

by additional mounting,
figures

upon which the ornamental

tweeled cloth depend.
of this afterwards.
Fig. 3. Plate 5.
is

upon many kinds of

e shall

have occasion to treat

a plan of

mounting, which will pro-

duce exactly the same

transverse section Fig.
1.

effect as that represented in the

The

only distinction

is,

that the
1.

treddles are arranged in a different order, those in Fig.

being in the order 4, 3, A, B,

in the succession 4, 3, 2, 1,

1,

2; and those in Fig. 3.

A, B.

which the treddles

weaver
It

are arranged,
is

Now, the order in may be varied as the

to

pleases,

and

merely a matter of convenience.

may, however, be proper here,

make a few general

observations

upon

THE ARRANGEMENT

OF TREDDLES.
treddles are necessary to

When
arrange
pressed

a great

number of

produce any

effect, it will be, obviously, the best

way

to

them

in the succession in

which they

are to be

down by

the weaver,

when

this is practicable.

For,

if

some regular order be not adopted, the weaver

be apt
to mistake the treddle,

will frequently

and press

down

wrong

one.

In heavy fabrics, where great power

is,

must be applied, the weaver

body

generally, obliged to use

both his feet ; and frequently the whole weight of his

will be

no more than
the
as,

sufficient.

In this case,
regular

it is

common

to place
left;

treddles

in

succession^

from right to

6-5-4-3-2-1
But, where the fabric
of one foot
is is

lighter,
it

and when the pressure

sufficient,

will be

more convenient

to

96

ESSAY

II.

arrange the treddles so, that the right and:

left

foot

may

be applied

alternately,

without

crossing

each other*

When
one

this is the case, the

weaver, while treading with

shift the

foot, has sufficient

time to

other to the next

treddle, without

impeding the operation. This, naturally,

succession at the centre, and

leads us to

commence our

to place the succeeding treddles, alternately,

side; as,

upon each

5-3-1-2-4-6
In this case, the treddles

1-3-5
-

will

be wrought

by*

the left foot, and the treddles 2 - 4

6 by the right; and

by applying the
6, will be

feet alternately, the treddles,

from

to

wrought

in the regular order of the

3.

numbers.
is

In the plan, Fig.

the

first

of these successions
1.

adopted; in the elevation, Fig.

second.

recourse

is

had

to the

In both, four treddles are required for the tweel,

plain.

and two for working the web

The former

are dis-

tinguished by numbers; the latter, by the letters A, B.

In

all

the plans given,

it is

to

be understood, that when

two

treddles are applied for the purpose of

working the

web

plain, these treddles are, always, distinguished

by

the letters A, B.
distinguished

All treddles for the fanciful part, are

;

by numbers

and the placing of these

numbers, gives the order in which the treddles are to be

wrought.
Fig. 4. Plate 5.

shows the draught and cording of a

five

loom, mounted for working a tweel consisting of

leaves.

There

is

no difference between

this figure

and

Fig. 2. excepting in the

number of the

leaves,

and the

number of the

treddles.

The drawing

of the

warp

through the heddles, proceeds in the same regular succession from right to left; and the treddles are arranged
in the

same

order.

In this figure,

five

of the lines*

TWEELING.

97

which represent the threads of the warp, are connected byeach cross line: five threads, therefore, are to be drawn
through each interval of the reed.
Fig. 5. Plate 4. represents a kind of ornamental tweel 5

produced, merely, by reversing the order, in which the

warp

is

drawn through the heddles.

The

plan, for

draw-

ing and cording a

web

of this description, will be found

by referring
five leaves,

to Fig. 5. Plate 5.

The

heddles consist of

and the explanations of the references, already

all

given for Fig. 2. apply equally well to this, and to

the other plans.
Fig. 6.
is

a plan for

mounting

a loom, so as to

produce

both plain and tweeled cloth, at the same time.

plans are, generally, adopted,

Such
weave

when

it is

requisite to

webs, the grounds of which are to be plain, and the

stripes

tweeled by the warp.

Two
two

treddles are added,

plain, if

to enable the

weaver to work the whole fabric

necessary.

If not required, the

plain treddles
1, 2,

A,
3,

B
4

may be

omitted.

In this plan, the leaves

is

contain that portion of the warp, which

tweeling, or stripes; the leaves
is

to

form the

A, B,

that portion

which

to

form the ground, or

intervals.

An

examination of

the

mode

of applying the cording will evince, that

when

the treddles 1, 2, 3, 4 are pressed

down

in the order of the

rise successively,

numbers, the tweeling leaves 1,2,3,4 will

and the plain leaves A,

alternately.

The draught

of

the warp, through the reed, as denoted by the cross lines,

is,

here, adapted to the purpose of rendering the tweeled

stripes

more

close

and compact than the plain ground;

for, of the
val,

former, four threads pass through each interlatter,

and of the

only two.

But,

if

the whole

is

to

be wrought plain, occasionally, the whole warp ought to

be equally drawn.

This case very rarely,

if

ever, occurs.

98
Fig. 7.
is
is

ESSAY

II.

a plan of a tweeled stripe,

where the tweeling

reversed in the draught, in a

way

similar to that

shown

in Fig. 5.

Stripes of this kind are called,

by weavers,
stripe bears

herring bones,
to the back will

from the resemblance which the

bone of a
fish
if

The draught and

cording

appear by inspection,

the explanations already

given are fully understood.

It

has been

deemed unnecessary

to multiply the

num^

ber of plates, by engraving more plans of plain tweels.

As
as

the whole plans are the same in principle, such figures,

may be

printed in the text,

it is

presumed

will

answer

every

further

purpose

of

illustration

which may be

necessary.

We

have, hitherto, considered

all

the threads of warp,

in tweeled cloth, as interwoven in progressive succession,

for the sake of rendering the general principle of tweeling

more obvious,

to those previously unacquainted

with

this

branch of weaving.
leaves, this
a greater

When
is

tweels do not exceed four

arrangement

always adopted.
is

But,

when
by

number of
is

leaves

used, a kind of alternate

this
is

succession

esteemed

preferable:

called,

weavers,

BREAKING THE TWEEL*

When
vals

a tweel consists of

many

leaves, the flushing

of both warp and weft

would be

so great, that the inter-

between the

points, at

which they are interwoven,

inconvenience, the broken
a

would, necessarily, be very flimsy, and the fabric very

unequal.

To
is

obviate

this

tweel has been used.

regular tweel

The same mounting by which

wrought, will also work a broken tweel,

But, this would

by treading

in a different succession.

derange the order of the treddles, and as mentioned

TWEELING.
before,

99
frequent
mistakes.
so, that

might

be

productive

of

Weavers, therefore, prefer placing the cording

the regular succession of the treddles

may be
at the

preserved,

while the effect of the broken tweel,

is

same time

produced.
first

An

example of each of these follows:

The

is

regular five leaf tweel, the same as Fig. 4.

Plate 5.

The second
is

is

the same tweel broken, and the

s-uccession of the treading to

produce either the regular,

or broken tweel,
each.

expressed by the numbers annexed to

FIVE LEAVES.
Regular Tweel.
1 1
1

Broken Tweel.
1
1

2
3

P o
4
5 3

o|
1

|o
1

4
5 [0

o
1 1
1

4
1

o
|

5 2
1 1

R. 5
B.

4
5

3 2

B.

4
5

R. 3

The
cording
dies.

above example will sufficiently show the two ways

of tweeling; and also, that the whole difference in the

is,

solely, to preserve a regular order in the tredr-

The same

succession of treading,
its

which breaks

the tweel in the one case, restores

other.
val,

regularity in the

In these, and the following examples, each interlines,

between the

denotes a

leaf.

Numbers

are used,

instead of the

marks

in the

engraved plans, to show the

order and succession in which the threads are drawn;

and the cypher, inserted

cord, as the black
Fig. 9. Plate 4.

in the squares, denotes a raising

mark does
is

in the plates.
effect,

specimen of the

and appear-

ance, of a five leaf tweel broken in this way, as viewed

on the

side,

where the warp

is

flushed.

In the same way,

tweels of six and seven leaves are

drawn and mounted.

100
The

ESSAY IL
following are examples of each six LEAVES.
Regular.

Broken.

1
1

|oj
j | j

'

j|

jo
| j j j

2
3
|

(
|

2
3

||
j

4
5

||
|

4
5

li
R.6
B.6
5

6
1 1

\6
1

4 2

2 3

1
2

B.

4
2

2 3

R. 6

SEVEN LEAVES.
Regular.
1
i
i

Broken.

i
|

f
|

|o|
|
|

2 3

| |

,|

So|
|
|

4
:

[0.|
|

4
5

'
|

|0
B.

1-0
| i i | i !

|7
1
1

R.7
B.6

4
7

2 3

Ml 7654321
|0|
It is to

11111(6
| | |

|7

R.

6427531
be observed, that

These examples

will

show the manner of forming the

alternate, or broken, tweel.

the cording

may be

adapted in various ways, and the

tweel broken in different places, according to the discretion of the weaver.

When

the

number of

leaves will

admit of

it,

the succession should be made, as nearly as

possible, at equal intervals.

For example,

in the

broken

tweel of six leaves,

all

the leaves ought to follow each

other in a succession, passing one leaf between each, until

you come

to the sixth treddle,

but as the

first

treddle

immediately follows the sixth, in repeating the operation,

there will be no interval there, and the effect of these

two

leaves will be* that of a regular, while

all

the rest

give that of broken tweel.

There

is

also

an interval of

TWEELING.
two
third
leaves,

between the

intersection,

produced by the

and fourth treddles.

however, cannot be avoided in working with
this

This,

six leaves;

number, therefore, although given

to

as

an

illustration,

ought

be avoided in practice.

The

five

leaf tweel also, although

much

used, has an interval of

two

leaves

between the

third

and fourth treddle.

When

eight leaves are

is

employed, the succession in

breaking the tweel,

at intervals,

different,

and disposes the warp

more

perfectly than any tweel

which can
In
all

be formed by a smaller number of leaves.

former, the interval
is

the

formed, by passing one leaf be-

tween every two,

eight leaf tweel,

until the

whole are corded; but,

in the

two

leaves are omitted, and the third

has the raising cord applied, as will appear by the following example:

EIGHT LEAVES.
1

MM
1 1
1

|o|
!
i i

|o|
| 1

2
3

4
s e
7 8

Ml
I

Ml
1 1 1 1

II
| |
|

Ml
| |

Broken
Regular

87654321 63852741
|

Ml

It is

unnecessary to give a draught of the regular eight

it

leaf tweel, because

proceeds exactly like those already

tweeling
cording,
is
it

given; besides, with so

seldom, or never,
will

many leaves, regular used. By examining this

first

appear that the intervals, by which the tweel

is

broken, are perfectly regular; for the

ceeds the eighth, at the same interval as

treddle suc-

all

the others.

102
The
give,
is

ESSAY
last

II.

specimen of

common

tweels,
is

which we

shall

that of sixteen leaves,

fine Italian

which

only to be found
silks.

in

some of the very

is

and French tweeled

Here the tweel

cording the

broken, by omitting four leaves, an$

fifth,

SIXTEEN LEAVES.
1
1 1

o
1
1 1 I

1
'

I.O.I
1

|o|
1 | |

o
I

o
1 I

4
5

|o|
I 1
1

ll
1 1 1

|o|
1

[o.l
1

I
j

IOI
I 1 1

M
1

10

n
12 13

|0
1

14
15

io
1

|0|
5

16
| I
|

B.16 15 14 13 12 11 10

Having

finished

the

observations,

and

given

such

examples as appeared necessary, to convey

a sufficient

knowledge of the principles of common tweeling, of the

varieties of

which

it is

susceptible,

and of the machinery

kinds-,

requisite for
is,

weaving the various

our next object

are adapted

to investigate the

means by which looms

to the

weaving

pi"

TWEELED
In the references to Figs.

STRIPES.

3.

and

4. Plate 4. the flushing

upon tweeled cloth has been explained.

On

one side, the

warp

is

flushed;

on the other, the weft.

Most kinds of

TWEEL1NG.
ornamental weaving, upon tweels, are produced by this
quality of

the

fabric.
is,

The
at

application of

it

to

the

forming of stripes
scription.

present,

the subject of de-

Stripes,

upon tweeled

cloth, differ

from those upon

stripes

plain, in the following respects:

Tweeled

may be

formed without any

warp-,

distinction

in the fineness of the

nor do they require

supernumerary threads to
It is

be drawn, either through the heddles r or the reed.

only necessary, to JIush the warp and weft alternately.

The

examples, necessary to elucidate

this, are

upon

the scale of a five leaf tweel ; for the same principle will

apply to any

number of

leaves, used for tweeling.

FIVE LEAFED
!
1

TWEEL
i

STRIPE.

|o
I

l.iii
2 2 2 2
3 3 3 3

4 4 4 4
5 5 5 5

llOlOjOjOi
I

1111

2222
3 3 3 3

}
i

4444
5 5 5 5

The above
five

is

specimen of a

stripe

upon ten

leaves,

of which flush the warp, and five the weft.

stripe is

The
same

produced by two

sets of leaves, consisting

is

of five each.

The

cording of the back set

exactly the

as the regular five leaf tweel, formerly described.

set is the

That of the front

same, reversed;

for, in the

former, there are five raising cords, which raise one leaf
successively, while all the rest sink
are five sinking cords,
:

in the latter, there

which sink one

leaf successively 3

ESSAY
while
all

II.

the rest rise.

By

this

arrangement, the one

set flushes the

warp, the other the weft.

The

stripe is
set

formed, by drawing a portion of warp through one

of

leaves, then another portion through the other set,

and

so on, alternately, according to the pattern of the stripe,

which may be regulated by fancy.

It is

usual in this species of tweeling, to invert the

it

order of raising the leaves of the two sets; for

obvious, that

will

be

when

the treddles are worked in the order

from right from

1

to left, the

back leaves will

rise, in

succession,

to 5,

and the front leaves

1.

will sink, in

an inverted
this

succession, from 5 to

do not know whether

produces any improvement in the appearance of the

cloth, but
it is

the general practice.

is

If a broken tweel

preferred, the leaves are corded

exactly as in
sinking.

common tweeling, one set rising, the other The following example will be sufficient:
TWEELED STRIPE BROKEN.
|
| |
| | |

1111
2 2 2 2 3 3 3 3

4 4 4 4
5 5 5 5

Of
f
|

|0|
|

1111 222 2
3 3 3 3

4444
5 5 5 5

|0|0|
5

All tweeled stripes are mounted upon the same prin-

Any number of common tweeling. The

ciple.

leaves

may be

adopted, as in

patterns depend, entirely,

upon

the succession of drawing the

warp through the heddles,

and may be varied almost

to infinity*

TWEELING.
The next
attention,
is

105
which requires our
It is

species of tweeling,

much used in the manufacture of table-cloths, and is known in But as we are Scotland by the name of Dornock. now entering upon the fanciful part of this branch of weaving, it will be proper to notice the way of sketching
a kind of tweeled check.

patterns, for weavers,

upon

DESIGN PAPER.

To

facilitate the

sketching of designs for ornamental

weaving of most kinds, they are generally drawn upon

paper, ruled with a
vals ;

number of parallel

lines at equal inter-

and these

lines are crossed at right angles,

by

others,

so that the whole exhibits the appearance of a

number of
to

small squares.

Of

these, the lines

drawn from the top

the bottom of the paper, are supposed to represent the

warp, and the cross

lines, the

weft of a web.

Some

of

the lines, generally every tenth

line,

in either direction, are

drawn bolder than the

the

others, to render the counting of

number of

lines easy.

Fig.

1.

Plate 6.
is

is

a specimen

of paper of this description, which

known by

the

name
ing,

of design paper.

In drawing any pattern, for weavinterval,

upon design paper, each

between two

lines,

may be supposed
either of

to represent any
at discretion.

number
In
all

of threads,
the patterns

warp or woof,

upon the design paper

five threads, five leaves.

in Plate 6. each interval represents

because the tweel to be formed consists of

The

pattern Fig.

1.

which

is

one of the

most simple which can be formed

ing,
is

in this kind of

weav-

an imitation of a

common

checker board, for

playing at draughts or chess.

Let the squares which are

black, be supposed to represent that part of the

web,

106

ESSAY

If.

where the weft appears flushed over the warp, upon one
side of the cloth,

and those squares, which are

left

blank,

to represent that part

where the warp

if

is

flushed over the

weft.

The

former, then,

we
But

suppose the weft to be

as Fig. 4. Plate 4.

black, will give the

same appearance

the latter, that of Fig. 3.

as the

squares of the

checker are, alternately, black and white, the weaver, to

accomplish

this,

must have
This

it

in his

power

to reverse the

flushing at pleasure.

is

effected

by an apparatus
and

consisting' of ten leaves, tlie

same

as in the stripes,

ten treddles,

being exactly two sets of the mounting

necessary for weaving a

common

five leaf tweel.

The
1.

plan of the mounting opposite to the design, Fig.

Plate 6. will serve to illustrate this.

Every square,
the paper, and
it

in the design, occupies six spaces

upon

has been already mentioned, that each

of these spaces represent five threads, or one set of a

five leaf tweel.
sets,

Each square,

therefore, consists of six

or thirty threads, and the squares are alternate.

six
sets,

Therefore,

of five threads

each,

are

drawn

through the

first

five leaves,

the same as in

common
five
is

tweeling-, then six sets are

drawn through the other

leaves,

and so on,

alternately, until the

whole warp

drawn through the

figures,
it is

heddles.

careful inspection of the

this very plain,

presumed, will render

even

to a person not conversant with ornamental weaving,

it is

and

of importance, that this simple pattern should be

it

fully understood, as

forms the base, upon which the

is

whole structure of ornamental tweeling

founded.

The drawing

of the

warp

differs,

in

no respect, from

that used for the stripes; the five additional treddles are

used to reverse the flushing.

The

treddles,

from

six to

ten, raise the tweeling leaves of the back set,

and sink

TWEELING.
those of the front.

107
from one
to
five,

The
1,

treddles,

exactly reverse this operation.

The weaver,

therefore,

works the treddles

2, 3, 4, 5, successively, until

he he

has completed one range of squares or checkers;

then works those numbered 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, uptii he has

completed another range, and so on alternately.-

The
the

Figs. 2, 3, and 4. Plate 6. are

as Fig. 1.

wrought by the
difference
is

same mounting

The whole
is

in

way

of drawing the

warp through the heddles.

In

Fig. 2. -every individual thread

drawn

as in the

former

examples in the

plates.

In Figs. 3, and 4. one line drawn

consisting of
-five

across the heddles, represents a set,

threads

drawn

successively in the
is

same way

as Figs. 1,

and

2.

The same

expressed, by numbers, in the

.3,

two

draughts under Figs,

and

4*

The
interval,

first

and second

set of heddles, are diyided

by an

and the number

of

sets,

to be
I

drawn upon each,

are expressed

by the

numbers.

have added a number of draughts of pat-

terns on the

same plan,

all

of which are wrought with

or

ten

leaves,

and ten treddles,

two

sets

of

tweel

mounting, the difference being entirely in the drawing.

All these patterns,
if

wrought with only

five treddles, will

form tweeled

stripes.

108

ESSAY

II.

DRAUGHTS OF TWEELED PATTERNS OF TWO

OR TEN LEAVES.
No.
2d. set
1st. set
1.

SETS,

No.
35 35
||

2.

10

10

40
10

35

35

||

10

40 No.

No.
10 5

3.

4.

10

10

5 10

40
10

||

10 10

40 40
10

10

40

10

5 10

40

10 5

||

40

No.
20 5 20

5.

No.
||

6.

5 5 5 5

40
30

5 5 5 5

20

5 5

20 5 5 5
|J

30 5 5 5

No. 20
'5

7.

20

5 5 5 5 20

5 5

20 5 5 5 5
5 5 5 5

20

5 5

20 5 5 5 5 No.

20 5 20

8.

40 20

5 5 5

20

5 5 5 5

20 5 5 5

10 5 5 5

No.

9.

5510
5 5 10

5 5

5 5

10

5 5

10 5 20 20 5 10

10 5 20 20

No.

10.

555520
'

5 20

5 5 5 5 20

10 10
15
5

20
15

5 5 5 5 20

55

20

555

TWEELING.
No.
15 15
11.

109

15

5 5 5 5 15

30
15 15

15 5 5 5

30

\5 5 5 5 5

55

No.
5
5

12.

15 5
5 15

15 5
5 15

30 10 30
5

5 15

5 15

30 15 30

15 5

15 5

No.
25
15 15

13.

10 10

10
10

10 10

15

15

10
10

10
10
10

10

25
14.

No.
5

30 10
5

10 30

30 10

20
No.

10 30

15.

15 5 15

30 10 15
15 5 5

5 5

15 10 30
5

15

5 5

15 5 15
16.

No.
30 30 30 30 30

10

10

10

10

30

30

30

10
17,

10

10

10

No.
10 10
15
5

15

10 10

15

15

25

25

10 10

25
18.

25

10 10

No.
20 20 20
5

5 5 5

20 20
5

20 5 5 20

20

110

ESSAY

II.

When
additional

a greater variety of pattern

Is

wanted than can

sets of

be accomplished by ten leaves, or two

leaves

mounting,

and treddles become necessary, and

these go on progressively, by sets of five leaves each,

according to the pattern required.

Fig.

1.

Plate 7.

is

an

example of a pattern wrought by three

or fifteen leaves.
are necessary.

sets of

mounting,
sets

Fig. 2. represents one

is

where four

This figure

drawn

as a four leaf tweel;

therefore, every space in the design represents only four

threads, and the four sets of

mounting contain only

six-

teen leaves and sixteen treddles.

To

render the effect

this plate

which the mounting produces more apparent,

has been coloured, and each set of leaves and treddles are of the same colour, as the spaces in the design paper,

where the flushing

is

reversed, to produce the pattern.

is

For example, where the design

coloured blue, the blue

treddles are to be used, and the blue leaves give the reverse, while all the other leaves rise

and sink

like a

com-

mon

tweel.

The same
it

is

the case with

all

the other

colours;

and

will appear,

upon

inspection, that the

cords are placed exactly upon the same principle as was

formerly explained.
In Fig.
tweel: in
1. all

The

cording

is

applied to produce a broken

is

the others the tweel

is

regular.

The

following
five,

a variety of patterns, wrought

six

by

three, four,

and

sets of

tweel mounting: as

formerly, the draughts only are given, for the cording

in the

whole

is

the same.

TWEELING.
PATTERNS OF THREE
No.
3d. set
1.

Ill

SETS.

6 6
6

6
6 6 2 2 2

6,

2 2 2 2

2d. set
1st. set

6
6

2 2 2

2 2 2 2

No.
3 3

2.

No.
2
|1

3.

3 3

1 1
1

18

~2

2p2
2 3 2

2232
2 3 2

If

41131331311
113 11
4.

|1

No.

11 11
1

16
3
3 3

16
3

111111113 11111
13
No.
1

13

13

1
"

5.
1

i~8

13313113133131
113 11
No.
6.
1

113 11
No.
7.

313
3
3

313
3
1
1

||

221
1

131
13

113
3

113
3

||

3
1

113

||

11

13

No.
3

8.

113
13
~~10

3 3

113
13

11111 113 1112 111

1

112
No.
9.

ESSAY it
No.
3
1
II

10.

13311331 13 31161
No.
3 3
11.

16

113

i|

33222222 332 222

No.
12.

113
3
3

6
3 3 3 2 3 3 2 3

3 3

113 113
13
1

11
1

13

2 2

No.
6
3 3 3

13.

No.
6

14.

4
3

3 3 3

13

13
No.
15.

13 111 3 3 11

112 11
311311 113113
No.
6
16.

10

313 11 11 11 313

111 13 111 r~T _ 311113 I~~T~ 31111

3
1

3 3

*_

No.
3
3

17.
1

16
11

12
11
1

33

11

61

123 321

33 11

TWEELING.
PATTERNS OF FOUR
No.
2
1>

11 Q

SETS.

12
2 2
1 1 1 1 1

12
2 2

12
3

1113
No.
2
1

2.

1 1
1

11

11
3 3

1111
3

i~~

No.

3*
1

21211
11
1

11
11
2

11
12
No.
1

113
13
3

11212
11

4.

1 1

1
1
1 1
1

211121121112
1

1 1
1 1

16 11

21121112112
No.
3
3
1

5.
1
1

13
11
1

11
11

3 3

11
1

114

ESSAY
No.

II.

6.
1

14
3

114.
1

113 13

141 3 113
4

113
-

4
1

4
1

4
1

11
10
1

10

No.
1

7.

11
1 1

11
11
1

13
11
3

113
113
3
1

No.

8;

111

1
1 1

111

1
1 1

1111

1111
1

1111
1

3 3

113
13

No.
1 1

9.
1 1

5
1

8
1

11

112

13 113 11
12
2
10.

No.
2

112
13
1
a

2
1

112
3
1

11
,

11111 111111

TWEELING.
No.
11.

115
No.
12.

4 4
3
3
3
1

||

6 6
1

13 113 13

J
||

3 3

II

13 113 13

13
_

No.
2

13.
1

12
2 2
3

12
2 2

11
1

13

113
No.

112 11 11
111 11 11 11
2

13. continued.

2 2 2 2 2
3

2 2

12
1

113
3

13
No.
14.

11
1
1

2 2 2 2

12
2
1 1

12
11

12

12
2 2

12
15.

12
2

No.

Mo.
I
,3

16.

15
3 3

5 3

||

||;

1
1

2
1

11 11

113 111
2

||

13

3
1
1

12

12

||

116

ESSAY
No.
~3

II,

17.

3
3

_
3

_ 11111 _
3~3
3
3
17. continued.

2 2

11112

~
3

No.
3
3 3

3 3

3
3

11111
12
2

~i

11112
18.

No.

11
2

12
2

12

111
No.

12 11 11
1

12
11
1 1

11
1

18. continued.
1

12
22
No.

Ill
12
1

11
11
1

11
11 2 12 11
1 1

19.

No. 20.
(|

3 3
1

3 3
3
1

2
2

112
2

II

11
2

1!

3 3 3
3

12

II

TWEELING.
PATTERNS OF FIVE
No.
5
3
1.

117

SETS.

3 3
3
3

3 3

3 3
3 3 3

3
3

3
3 3

__
3

No.
_
3 3

2.

_
3

3
3

3 3 3

11
2
2 2

13 11

12
3.

No,

"~~
3
3 3
5

2
3 3
2__
1

2 2

2112
222

2112 222
No.
4.

2112
2
2

3
~

113
3

11
11
1

113 13
11
1

11
1

118

ESSAY
No.
5.

II.

11
11
2 2 2
1

11
1

1 1

11

11
1

2 2 2 2 2
1

11
No.
5.

11

11
continued.

11

3~

22122122 12 222 22222

2

21
2
1
1 1

2
2 2

No.

6.

No.
1

7.
1 1

114 11
]

"3

i
1

11
1

13 115 11
13
3

||

II
No.
9.

No.

8.

Ill
111
3 3 3 3

||

3333
333
3 3
3
1

||

||

||

9
10.

||

No.

DRAUGHT.
3

No.
10
||

10.

ORDER OF TREADING.
9

33233
3 3 3
3
3

10

II

3
3 3 3 3 3

II

113
113
2
1

993
3 3 3

||

II

TWEELING.
PATTERNS OF
No.
I

119

SIX SETS.

1.

ll 11
1

11
3
1 1
1

11
1

13
1 1 1 1

3
1

11

No.

1.

continued.

1 1
1

3
3 3

1
1

1 1

1 1 1

No.
2

2.

2
1

2
1 1

2
1 1

2
"

iiiiiii
No.
2. continued.

11111111

~T

5 5

112
2

2
2

12

2
2

12

12

112

112

120

ESSAY
No.
4
1 1

II,

3.

4 4

4
1

11
.4
4 4

14 1 14 11
2
2 2

12
2 2

No.

3.

continued,

114

4
4
l i
;

1114

4
4

14 14
2 2 2 2 2 2
4

No.
2
2
2

4.

2 2 2 2
2

2
2 2
2 2 2

2
2 2

2
2 2

2
2 2 2
2

2
2 2

2 2 2 2

2 2

2
2

No.
2

4. continued.

2
2
2

2 2
2
2

2
2 2 2

2
2

2 2
2

2 2

2
2 2 2

2 2
2 2

2 2

2
2 2

2 2

TWEELING.

121

These patterns have not been selected for any particular merit which they may possess, but, merely, as illustrations
of the manner of weaving them, and
all

patterns of equal

compass.

Every pattern may be varied very much, by working

the
treddles
in

different

succession.
is

One

pattern,

therefore (No. 10. four sets),

cession of the treddles
is

inserted

where the suc-

not in the same order as that

of the draught.

Those who wish

this,

to attain a thorough

knowledge of
mounting

and of every branch of ornamental weaving, ought

carefully to

draw the draughts, given

for the

of webs, upon design paper.

The
pattern.

rule for this

is

simple and easy.

in the figures

Select any

Suppose every unit

employed, to

be comprehended in one square of the design paper.

Draw

the whole design of the set

which occurs,

first

across the paper,

making each of the

largest draughts
all

square by the weft.

sets,

Continue the pattern, until

the

of which the mounting consists, have been inserted,

will

and the pattern

be complete.

The

patterns

may be

lengthened, or shortened, by the weft, at discretion.

careful comparison of the figures,
in Plates 6,

upon the design paper^

and

7.

with the draughts, will be of

much
any
it is

service in rendering this familiar.

The

principles before described

may be

carried to

extent-, for, as the patterns

assume

a greater variety,
leaves.

only necessary to increase the

number of

This,

however, would be attended with

venience-, for

much

practical incon-

when many
move

leaves are necessary, they not

only occupy a great space, but require a greater degree

of power applied to
easily exert.

the treddles, than a

it is

man can
generally

Indeed, in fanciful tweeling,

122
To
is

ESSAY

II.

found inconvenient to work with more leaves than

or three sets.
obviate this,
a

fifteen,

when an

extensive range

of

pattern

required,

very

ingenious,

although
called, by-

simple, apparatus, has been adopted;

which

is

weavers, a

BACK HARNESS.

The
applied,

superiority of the

back harness for extensive

patterns, consists in this; that in

no case to which

it is

more than one

working a
is

set of treddles, that is, the

requisite for

common

tweel of the

number same num-

ber of leaves,

necessary.

Plate 8. contains the various

parts of a back harness

and other apparatus, consisting

of five harness leaves, and five plain leaves, for working

a fanciful five leaf tweel.

From

the construction of the

harness, each leaf produces an effect equal to that of

five

leaves

upon the plan formerly

it

described.

This

mounting, therefore, although

leaves, possesses the

consists only of ten

means of working any pattern of

represent the back harness.
is

twenty-five leaves, or five sets.

The
tin,

five leaves, at

A. Fig.
eye,

1.

Each heddle contains an warp

are drawn.

which

generally

made of
of the

and through each of these eyes

five threads

The

harness leaves are lifted, as

may

be required, by means of the top levers, or coupers, B*

Of

these there are usually

two

sets, for the

sake of lifting

both sides equally.

are connected

The

other end of the levers, at

D.

by cross

shafts,

from each of which hangs

Upon,

a cord, passing through a hole in a square board E.

each cord

is

a knot,

which, when the leaf

is

raised, is

fixed in a notch in the board E.

The

proper shape of

the holes and notches, appear in Fig. 3.

To

the end of

TWEELING.
each cord
is

123
pulls

attached a handle,

which the weaver

lift

with his hand,

harness.

when

necessary, to

a leaf of the
five

The

front mounting, at C,

consists of

leaves, as in a

common

tweel, and

is

worked by

treddles

and marches, exactly in the same way.

The

five threads,

which
are

are

drawn through each eye of

in succession

the back harness,

drawn

through the front leaves, one

thread passing through each, as represented in Fig. 2.

The

eyes of the front heddles, are of a length rather

greater than the

whole depth of the shed.

To

understand the application of this apparatus,

we
the

must again recur

to the general principle of fancy tweeling,

viz. flushing by the

warp, or by

the weft,

and reversing

flushing at pleasure.

The

cording

is

applied to the front leaves, in such a

manner, that one

leaf rises,

one sinks, and the other three

remain stationary,

at every tread.

The

order

may be
This
is

either that of the regular, or the broken tweel.

one of the exceptions to the general rule, of the treddle

which

raises certain leaves, sinking all the rest.

In the

plan of cording, Fig. 2. the raising cords are, as usual,

distinguished by black marks, the sinking ones are left

blank, and where the leaves are to remain stationary, and

where, of course, no cord

placed.

is

required,

a cross

is

Now, by
the leaf 5
is
is

again referring to Fig.

1.

it

will appear, that

the leaves 1, 2, 3, 4 of the back harness are sunk, and

raised.

The
is

leaf 1 of the front

mounting

is

raised j the leaf 5

sunk, and the leaves 2, 3, 4 are

stationary.

As
all

five

threads pass through every eye of

the harness,

the threads which pass through the har-

ness leaf 5, will be raised above the shuttle, except those

which are sunk by the front

leaf 5.

Four threads

are,

124

ESSAY
by the warp.

II.

therefore, dbove, and one below.

This produces a tweel,

all

flushed

In

all

the other harness leaves,

the threads will be under the shuttle, except those which

are raised by the front leaf
1.

Four threads, therefore,

are below, and one above.

This produces a tweel, flushed

by the weft; and the

by

flushing

may be

reversed at pleasure,

raising or lowering the harness leaves.

The
ther

length of the eyes of the front leaves, being raleaf

more than the depth of the shed, the

with
it

which
are

sinks, carries

one thread of every

leaf

five

which

raised

by the harness; the

which

rises carries

up one

thread of every five which are sunk.

Upon
it

the rest, they

produce no

effect.

The

patterns given, answer equally

well for the harness, as for leaves;

being always re-

collected, that one harness leaf answers the purpose of

live

upon the former

plan, supposing the tweel to be one

of five leaves.

The

last

and most comprehensive apparatus, employed

for fanciful patterns of great extent,
is

by weavers

the

draw loom.
This apparatus, besides being used for weaving the

most extensive patterns

in

ornamental tweeling,

is,

also,

adopted for the same purpose, both in the weaving of

double cloths,
weaving.

such as carpets, &c. and also in spot

shall, therefore,

We

postpone the description

of the principles and machinery of the draw loom, until

these branches have been investigated.
.

In the

mean

time,

we

proceed to give specimens of a

great variety of fancy work, effected by flushing.

The

following sixteen patterns, represent the drawing

for a

and cording of a species of tweeling, much used

variety of purposes.

TWEELING.
No.
I

125

1.

ll
|

1
J
|

j |
|

j
|

2
| j

32
31

j"
j

If

"J
j

j j

4
5 6
7

30
29
28

|
| |

jo
|
j

jo
|

27
26

|
j

jo]
j |

8
|

25

j
j

jo
|
j

10 24 12 22
IS

|0|
j

|0|0|0|0|0|0jll23
j
|

|
j

j |

|
|

1^0
|

0-|
j

21

|0| |0|
j
j

|0| |0| |0|

| j
J

14 20
15

19
18

j j

16

17
|

17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32

No.
j j

2.

|
j

j J

j |

2
3

30
29 28
27

1 1
1

1 1

| 1

| J

4
5 6
7

| |

j | j
j

j'v.]
j j | j

26 25

|
|

j
|

| j

j
j

8
j |

24
23 22
21

j |

j
J

j j
|

10
11

| |

| | |
|

12
13 14 15

20
19 18
17

|
j

j
j

j j
|

| J j

j j
j

| | | |

16

16 15 14 13 12 11 10

17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

.26

ESSAY

II,

No.
|0|
1
|
|

3,
"0
j
1

jof

|0|

!l!
|

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5

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9

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14

14 13 12 11 10

15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26

No.
fo 1

4.

o|j
1

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1
1

II
j

2
1

26
25

4
5

24
23 22
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7

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19
18
17
11

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16
15

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14

14 13 12 11 10 9

15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26

TWEELING.
No.
r
I

127

5.

[01
o
|

1
I
1

2
1

30
29 28 27

4
1

0|
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6
7

o! |o ol |o o| |o
o o o o o o o o
9
8

10
11

26 25 24 23 22
21

12
13

20
19 18
17

14 15 16
7

|o|

16 15 14 13 12 11 10

17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

No.
j

6.

jo|
j

o
|

| |

o|
J
|

o
J
| | j

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2
3

30

29
28
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4
5
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1
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12
13

20
19
18
17

14
15 16

jo
j

|
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16 15 14 13 12 11 10

17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

ESSAY
No.
1 1

II.

7.

PI
j
j

o
|

|0|
| |
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10
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15

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o
9

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|
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16

16 15 14 13 12 11 10

17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

No.
1

8.

o| to
P.J
1.0

o.|

o o
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1
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20
19
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16 15 14 13 12*11 10

987654321
1
1

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16

17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

TWEELING.
No.
]

129

9.
1

lo|o
|

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o
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|0|0|
1

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29
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5

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7 8

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24
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10
11

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21

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12
13

20
19
18
17

jo

14
15 16

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16 15 14 13 12 11 10

17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

$Fo. 10.
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o o o

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30
29 28
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9

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25

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10
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12
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PI
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14
15

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20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

30

ESSAY
No.

XX,

11.

o\
!

hi
0|0| 0|0 0|0|
PI
1

p| *J i| PJ
1

o| PI PI o| PI
o

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1
1

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o

o|

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p p p p

1 |o 1

1
1

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1
1

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PI p{ o 1 PI PI PI p 2 p p p p is PI PI PI 1* 5 PI p p l p p [1 p p 1*
1

30
29 28

27 26
25

24
23

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22
21

20
19 18 17

16 15 14 13 12 11 10

4.321

17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

No.
j
| j
|

12.

J
|

joj
j
|

|
-

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|

jl
j

2 3

4
5
6 7 8

30 29 28
27
26

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|

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|

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1 1 1

p o

25 24

IPI

ll
o

1
1

|
j

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21

10
11

P
1

JOJ joj
|

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j

12
13 14

20
19
18

15 16

17

16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9

17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

TWEELING.
No.
{

131

13.
1
|

o O

| j

|
|

| |

2 3

28

27 26
25

O'j
j j

jo
j

|
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4
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j j

24
23

11

JO
|

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22
21

o
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jo jp

jo
j

10
11

20
19
18

li
| |

ll
|

12
13

17

j j

j j

14

16 15

15 14 13 12 11 10 9

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28

No.
|
| |

14.

o
|

o
J

o
| |

o
| j j j

2
3

2d
25

j
|

JO
|

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| j

J
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4
5
6

24
23 22
21

7 8 9

jj

jo
| j j

||jo
j

jj

j|

20
19
18 17 16

j |

jo
j

jo
j

10
11

jo
| j |

12
13

15

14

14 13 12 11 10 9
15 16 17 18
19-

2
26*

20 21 22 23 24 25

132

ESSAY
No.
|

II.

15.

o
|

|o|o||
j
| | |

jojoji
|
|

'

j 1

2
8

26
25

jojoj li || |0|0| jojoj j.O jojoj jojoj |0|0|0|

I
| |

4
5
6'

24
23

22
21

jo
j

7
8

|0|0|
j {
j ( j j

20
19
18 17 16
15

9
10
11

'[

JO jojoj
|

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|

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|

jojoj
U
| j |

12
13

JOJOJ

j j

24

14 13 12 11 10 9

15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26

No.
1

16. o

||
| |
| |

| 1

1
|

j 1

[|
| j |

2
3

26
25 24

| I

jojoj Jojoj jojoj

j j
|

4
5 6 7
8

jojoj
|
|

'

23
22
21

jojoj
| j j j j j j
| |

20
19
18
!7 16 15

0-j
1

j |

l|0|
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ll
|

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|

10
J 1

n
12 13

j0j
j |

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jojOJoj
7

jojoj
3

14

14 13 12 11 10

2
26.

15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

TWEELING.
Patterns
great variety.
illustrate

133

of the description preceding, are used in

The specimens
general
principle
;

given

are

sufficient

to

the

and,

afterwards,

the

particular

figures
1.

may be

regulated

by fancy.

The

pattern

No.

consists of seventeen leaves,

figure,

and seventeen

treddles.

The

which

it

forms upon cloth, will

be found drawn upon design paper, in Fig. 10. Plate 4.

By

this

mounting, a part of the cloth

is

woven
If

plain,

and

the rest contains flushing, or tweeling, of different kinds,

extending from three to thirteen leaves.

as formerly, the

we

suppose,

warp

to be white,

and the weft black,

the flushing will give the effect, produced

upon the under Each square

side of the cloth, as stretched in the loom.

of the design paper

is

supposed, in this instance, to repre-

sent only one thread of

warp or weft.

By counting

the

spaces, therefore, of black or white, the extent of the

flushing will be found in any direction, and the single

squares which are, alternately, black and white, of course,

represent plain cloth.

The
plan,

figures,

upon the

part at the right

hand of the

represent the order and

succession in which the

threads are
are

drawn through the heddles.

left

The numbers
usual

placed from

to

right,

in

the

order

of

writing or printing; but, as weavers

draw

their

webs

from

right to

left,

the order in the plan will be exactly

inverted in practice.

For want of room upon the page,

to 16,
it

the numbers from

in
straight lines;
is

and from 18 to 32 are placed

to

but

is

be understood, that the

draught
Plate 5.

exactly in the order represented in Fig. 5.

in the description of

which was explained

com-

mon

tweeling.

Each number,

in

all

these plans, signifies

is

only a single thread.

that in

The

order of treading,

exactly

which the numbers under each plan

are placed.

134
If the plan

ESSAY
No.
1.
it

II.

is

compared with the pattern upon

the design paper,

will be found, that the raising cords,

marked by the cyphers, exactly correspond with the

squares,

which

are black, and that the plan

is

an exact

representation of the fourth part of one set of the design.

That

this
if

must be the

case,

in all the

plans, will be

obvious,

we

consider, that the draught through the

heddles being double, and inverted, will double the plan

by the warp, and

invert the

two
same

sides

*,

and that the

treddles being gone twice over, and the succession also

inverted,
will

produce the
this,

effect
it

by the weft,

Proper attention to

will

make

easy to

draw a

design of this kind of work,

is

when
given.

the plan of mounting

to

given

and,

on the contrary,
is

draw

plan

of

mounting, when a design

The

pattern on the

design paper, contains a set and a half each way, to give

the full effect of every part.

No.

2.

is

a plan containing sixteen leaves

and sixteen

treddles.

Fig. 11. Plate 4.

shows

its

effect

upon the
1.

design paper.

The

description given of
all

No.

applies

equally to this and to

the others.

In Nos. 3, and 4. which are upon fourteen leaves, the

figures, representing the succession of the draught, are

placed more nearly in their respective places, as they

ought to be drawn.

Nos.

5, 6, 7,

and

8.

are

upon

sixteen leaves.

The

appearance of No.

7. is,

upon design paper, represented

8.

by Fig.
These,
it

12.
is

and that of No.

presumed, will be

by Fig.

13.

Plate 4.

sufficient to illustrate all

the others.

Figures of this kind are sometimes varied, and thrown

into squares,
leaves in

by drawing the warp successively over the

sets, in

two

the

manner formerly

described.

TWEELING.
One example
refers to

185
It

of this draught will be sufficient.

Nos.

3,

and

4.

29

28
"27

13

25_

2
3 11

12

14 15 16
17

24
23

4
5 6 8 7

10

22
21 18

20
19

Continued.

32
31

44
33 34
35
41

43

45 46
47

30

42

36
37 38

40
39

48

49
50

186
The

ESSAY
successive numbers,

II.

from

1
1

to 50, to 7,

contain one

set of this

draught; the numbers

commence the
same order

second draught.

The

treading

may be

in the

as the draught, or varied at pleasure.

The
chiefly

fancy tweels,

which have been described, are

and
is

employed

in the manufacture of table linens

cottons.

Besides these, a very great variety of pattern

produced, in the weaving of thick goods, for garments of

different kinds.

Some
is

of these are
the substance

woven of
by

silk,

or

woollen, but cotton

extensively employed.

far the

most

The

difference, in the effects of these, depends entirely

upon the succession of the draught, the

cording, and the order of treading.

application of the

Some
is

of these goods*

such as velvets, corduroys, &c. have the flushing cut, at

certain intervals, after the

weaving

finished, to complete

the effect.

But the

investigation of this, and

many

other

ways of

finishing cloth, does not

come within

the plan

of this work.
I

have had the good fortune to procure a very extensive,

and, I believe, accurate collection of patterns, applicable

to these kinds of work.

With them

I shall

conclude this

Essay.

The numbers, showing

denotes one thread.

the draught in

all

these plans,

are placed in the order of drawing, and each

number

The

raising cords

are,

as usual,
is

represented by cyphers, -and

the order of treading

pointed out by the numbers placed under each plan.

TWEELING.
No.
1,

137
No.
2.

PILLOW FUSTIAN.
|
|
| |

PLAIN VELVERET.
1
||
|

4
3 6

5 2 3

||

5 2

\6
|

2
5

||

14

|0|
| |

|0|0|
| |

||

\6
1

No.

3.

No.

4.

DOUBLE JEAN.
JO |o
1
i

PLAIN THICKSET.
1
II

IP
1

|0|
1
|

|8
6 4
1

l-o
j

11

2
3

II

o |o
1
1

o |0| o |o|
1

II

t,;i

5
1
,

2
3
1

4
1 II 1

o
I1

o
1
i
ji

o
i

2 5
8

No.

5.

No.

6.

BEST THICKSET.
1

STOCKINET.
3
1
II 1 1

o
|
|

|0|0|
1

|o;
1

o
1 |

II

|o
1
1
1

2
3

o o 4

2
|
!

11

|o|o;1.
o
1

1 I

6 4
1

II

1
!

o
|

2 5

No.

7.

No.

8.

STRIPE.
|0
i

VELVET TUFT.
6
7
1
II 1

|o; |o |o fo|
l.o
!

|o|
!

1i

[531
4 2
|

4
||

|0!|o
!
11
1

foj L.o jo \o\ |o|

j
i i

5
8

2
II

|o
1
1

o |o
i
i

42
5 3
1

3
II
1
1
I

o
1 1
!

2
5

131

ESSAY
No.
9.

II,

No.
prince's cords.
7

10.

3 5

1
"I

1
2
3

9
I
I

O
j

10
8 6

4
2
1
1

|0|4
3
1

No.

1 1

No.

12.

CORD AND VELVERET.

1

BARLEY CORN.
3
1
If

|0| |0||O.J
i

3
1
!

|0|

7
1
I

5
3

I1

1
t

!I

|0| [Oj
2

W
I

7 5

6 4 2

w
i

8 6
1

|
1

64

jo|
!

4 2*
i 1

II

23

No;

IS.

No. 14v

PLAIN CORD.
f
f I f

BOLTON CORD.
SI
4 2
ff

[of
i

i-

[Of
| |

j f

5314 2
9 7
10 8 6

i'P'i
I
1

fi

|0(0|
| f

If

|0
|

f'

O.j

\6
1

If

|-o
|

[Of
4
2

2
5

No.

15.

No.

16.

THICKSET CORD.
jot
! ! |
j

ROUND TOP.
5 3
1
|j

1*1
1

fo ll
1

6
1

o
o

4 2
f)

lor
1

10 8
i

4
7
1

|0|
1

9 7
10 8 6

ff

|o [o
\

|o|
9
1 I
i

|f

\o\
4 6 2

5 3

TWEELING.
No.
17.

IQ

No.
3

18.

VELVERET CORD.

JEAN.
;

42 1Q| 1AM__LJ-J_A
1
I

~\6

oS
6

f
4
2

"|o"|

i>
1

2 5

No. 19. CABLE TWEEL.

|o
I

No. 20. GENNET.

1
II 1

0)
2
1

o
!

i
i

JO
o
! i

o
1

o |o
1!
1
J

1
i
1

4 2
5
1

o
I
1

II

10
1

oj
'

4
5 6

1!

jo |o
i
:

i-o

foj
!

II

|o
I-o

o
:1
'

3
6

jo
1 1

li

2 5

No. 21.
RIBS.
]

No,
|o

22,

o
i

I
1

II

jo
1

To
3
1

2
,

1)

Jo |o| |o 0|0 |o| |o

1
1
I

1!

19 i

IP]
3
1

2
4
5

4
5
'

||

~r~
-

o|
o
1

o
6
1

II

II

o
i

o| 6
2

16

'No. 23.

No. 24.
r

DOUBLE KING'S C0RD

I
I

GENOA THICKSET
i
II
i

o
I
!

o
i

|..o
i
1

I-o
1
1

|o| y
I

ii

|o
i
1
1

2
3

[0 io
1
1

l-a-.ro
1

*
4

jo
II (|

o
o o o

1
1

So |o
3

r
I

|0

|o|
6 8

km
1

o o
5 a
1

"ii
1!

|o
1

!
1

o 4
8

IO 12

3
7
II

2 6

5
11

3
9

12 10

140
No. 25.

ESSAY

II.

No. 26.
queen's cords.

1 1

II

2
3

||

2
I

0|
[
[

|0 [o
j

II

4
5
6
1

||

jo|o|o
1 1

| 1

4
5

||

p|
4 6 8

|0
2
5
7

|o| |o
!

l
3

4
10

2
8

18 15 12 11

16 14

17 13

No. 27.

.No. 28.

queen's velveteens.
i

!!
l<>l

i
II

2
! II i
1

Q-|
I

|o [ol |0
|

2
3

|
1

s
j
|

!l

o
|

q
4
5 6

| | | |

4
5

||
|

ii
1

I
||

|o|o

]
1

|6f

3 7
11

12

2 6

4
8

3
7 9

5
9

6 10

10 12 11

No. 29.
PLAIN VELVETEEN.
f
1

No. 30.

GENOA VELVETEEN.
i|

(0
!

M
1

|o
-2 3

\o
J

j;

o|
I

2
3
i

!
1

||

ojc:
5
1

4
6
8

||

j 1

||

|o

o|
2
6

||

of jo
2
6

o|
6
1

13
5
7

12

3 7
11

5 9

10

TWEELING.
No. 31,

No.

32.

GENOA VELVERETS.
of
6
1

o
i 1
| |

"1

|o| o|
|

jo jo
j 1

l |
4
1

2
2

>

[o |o

|o
1

4
1

A
i I

|-f
| J

o
|

l"o|
i

|o|o
1

fo-j 6

joj
i

|0 jo
2
5 3
11

4 7

16 14

5
8

10 11 13

9
'

12 14 10

12
15

13 15
16

No. 33.
PLAIN BOLTON CORD.
I
J
1

No. 34.
PLAIN CORD.
3
1

7 3 6

|||0|0|j9
llllll
|o|o|
|

II J!
o
j

2
|

4
5

||li0||4
1

io

1 1
o
j
j

jojoje
2
5

No. 35.
KING'S CORD.

No. 36.

CORDED MUSLINET.
1

||j||0|0|
1
1 j

|0||j|0|0|
jOj j0j
|
j

|0j
| |

2 7
8

j j

2
3

|0|0|
I"
1

||lll!l
j
|

4
5
6

4
5

!l
o
| |

o jo]
|

o
j

joj
5 3

o
j |

jojojoje
|

13
5
7

142
No. 37.

ESSAY
FANCY TWEEL.

II,

No. 38.
RIB AND JEAN.
1

I9|
i
1 1

o
|

11
J

|o|
o
| |

|o 7 "1 |0 oj
|o

10
9 3

|0 lJ 1
1

lo
2
1

19
o
1

o
i

l-o
I

il!
|o|
1
1

8
7 5

4
6

o
| I i

4
5 6

|o|
I S

|o|

!
2 5
7

12
1

|o|o
i

12

16
3
n

3
9
11

10

No. 39.

No. 40.

VELVET WITH GENOA BACK.

|o|
i
1

VELVET WITH PLAIN BACK.

o
1

jo|
|

|0[
1

|o
i

o|o
1

2
3
!

UllQj
1 1

jojo
i 1 i

0|0
o.l

4
1

-MM
| |

4
5

|o jo
2 6

5
i

|0|
|

jo
1

6 3
7 11
1

I0|
4
2
6 7

\6
8

12

13
5

5
9

10

No. 41.

No. 42.

HONEY COMB.
1

JEAN
-i

RIB.
1

|o
1
1

oj
1 |

o
i l

|'

2
3

|0| oj
1

2 3

|0j |0|
|

0|0|
o
I
1

4
5

|o |o
1

4
1

So!
8 10

|0|6
3 9
1

lo

o||

IP

5 6

2
4
e

5
11

12

TWEELING.
No. 43.

148

CORD WITH GENOA BACK.

o
1
i

28
I

25

22
23
21

19

16
17

13

10
11

7 8 9

4
5

o
1
1

|o|
1

0| of o|
30

29

26
27

20

14

2 3

15

So
14
16
18

[ofo
2

lo |o So
5
11

24

18 12 6

4 6
8

17 15 13

20

23 21 19

22 10 24 12

No. 44.

No. 45.

SATINET FACE.
i
1

GENOA VELVETEEN.
1

l
j

|p |o
2
!

jo |oj |o| |o| |oj o|

i 1

3
I

o
|

5 2

|o |o
o
1

fo |o
1

3
1

4
5
6
!

4
1

6
1

|o |o|
7

o o
5
3 2 4
1

No. 46.

No. 47.

DUTCH CORD.

.1
I
1

MOCK MARSEILLE*
f
i 1

io|
j

ll
|

4
5

2
3 4

ll
I

|0| l!
|
I

2
3

7 !|0| |0 8 ll lli l|0| !<>|0|9

I
1

5
i

Mill
2 4 6
5

|0|

|0|

|0|7
3
1

144

ESSAY

II.

No. 48.

ANOTHER CORD.
o
j
1

o|
I

28

25

22
23

19

16
17

13

10
11

4
5

fo |o
i

o
I'o

29

26
27

20
21

14
15

8 9

2
3

lo
!

|0

|0
2

0|0 |0|0
14
5
11
Q

jo o|
1

24
30

18

o
|

12

4 16
6
8

18 17 15 13

20 23 21 19

10 22
12 24

No. 49.

No. 50.

GENOA VELVETEEN.
I
1

QUILTING SEED WORM.

1

|o 01 [ |o
1

o|
o
3
1

o
|

|o| |o |o
|

o o o

o
1

4
7
9.1

1
1

o|
o
5 6
1

l'o"|

[o
5 9 3 8

o "o" o o o |o o
3

o o

o
8
1

5 2 6 9
3

o o
6

o o
2

2 6

14
5

8
10

No. 51.
SILK CORD.
|o
1

o
|

39
38 37

35

31

27

23 22
21

19
18 17

15

11

7 3

jo|o
j j j !

34 33 32
36

30
29

26
25

14
13

10 6 2
9

So
1

0|0
jo |0
j

jo
1

91 Oj oj

40
1

24
28

20
1

12
16
8

ol
7

10
12 14
16

4
6
3

15 13 11
v

TWEELING.
No. 52.
RIB
I

145

AND
26 24

DICE.
21 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3
1

|o

33 31 29

i
i

r i

ol
o
|

28 34

23
18

12
16 14

l-o'l

32
30

27

22
25

10 8

42

lol
2
8

o
3
1

20

._

4 10 5
6 12

9
11

&o. 53.

GENOA BACK VELVERET CORD.

(0!
1
1

10

o o
o

|o] |o|
1 1

1
1

2
1

3
1

jo
1

4
1

o|
I

|0|0j
8

lol ol 3 |6
I

2 5

14 7
16 10

11 13

12 15

No.

54.

ANOTHER CORD.
!
S 1

l,o

o|
!

31

26
25 23

21
11

o
1

o
33
1

5 9 7
3
1

30 28
29

19 17 15 13

|o fo jo
1

o o

o o o |0

24
18

|0 |o
1

34
32
27

12

22 20

16 14

10 8 6 4 2

3 7

2 6

4
8

9
13

11 10 12

15 17 14 16

19 21 18 20

23

22 24

146

ESSAY

II*

No. 55.

GENOA BACK CORD DOUBLE TOP.

1

l/

o o
1

o o

o
i

o
!

LP
1
i

[q
o

4
1

[o 1

5
i

o
1

6
7
1

1
1
l.o

[o

42
10

12

96351
11

No. 56.

ROYAL DOUBLE TOP.

I 1

o
I
|

|0|
I
1

|0|0| jojo| |o|o|

I

2
|

11

12
9 5

4
10
6
7

MM
1
1

II
|o|o|
o
|

[0
j

|0'|

8
1

2
8

10 12

5
11

No. 57.
JEAN BACK AND FACE.
1 !

No. 58.
SATIN CORD.
5
1
II

-|o

o o o
6

o
2

So
o
J

2
3

ii

o o o
9

If

ll
1

l
4
1

4
10

ii

joj
1

|0
o o

II

o
|

|o|o
1 !
I 1

o
II

o o

5 6 7
8

o
!

11

1
Ii

o
1

12

|o| |o|
2

o|
3
1

4
8

TWEELING,
No.
59.

147
No. 60. VELVETEEN.

PLAIN AND WILD WORM.

|o
1
1

1
II

|0|0|
oj
S
1

2
3

||
1

o
1

2
|

|0
4
o
1

|j 1

|o
o
4
J

|0|0j
o|
5

||

|o
1

5 6
7 8

1 1

|o
1

||
1

o
1
1
1
|

|o
o
|

7 8

||

||

|o |o|

3
7 11

5 9 10 12 14 16 15 13

No. 61.

GENOA BOLTON CORD.

|c 1
13
7
11
1

12

8 6 3

\o

9 o
9

4
5

Oj 1
8 6 12 14

Q o
15
1

10

14

IPI
2 3 5 11 10 15 13
7

No. 62.

GENOA BACK CORD.

i

|o 1
o
1
|

28

22 26
23
21
18

16
17

13
11

o
I

2 6 5
3

|o|
|
|

[o o|
lo

27
i

12

o o]
I

29

10
15
9

|0|0|
i

0|0
o
1

|o |o
6
3

0|
25

20
19

14

I'o-I
i

olo o|
o
4 7
|

30
3 11

C)

2 14

2 5

10
13 15 IS

148

ESSAY

II,

No, 63,

ROYAL JEAN CORD.

II
1

15 14

13

lOt ll
j

M
I
j

12
11

10
9

|
J

1
J
|

10
|

I [

4
7 6

3 2
I

|0"|
j
|

[0
2 4

fO.

WILD WORM CORD.

MM!
|o|o|o|o|
Jo

|o|
1

|o|

M
ll
|

I.I..I
1

|o|

o
1

o| o| o| o| 0| o|
1

9 7

5
11

13 15
17

111!
|

0,|
!

14
18
I

8 6 4 2

fo|o|o
1
1

o|
|

10 12

o
|

l<>|

0-|
I

16
1

10 12 14 16 7

5
9

24 22 20 18 11

15 13

19 17

23 21

TWEELING.
No. 65. CORD.
\
1

149

|o| o oj
| 1

.1

o| 20
19
1

o)
1
| 1

18 17

o
i 1
|

o
1 1 !

16 15

0-|

|o
~0~
j

o
| j

o
j
j

14
13
7
1

MM
|

|.o

12
11

10 8 6 4 2
9

l-o
1

5 3

12 10 8 6 4 2 14 16 18 20 22 24

5 9 13 17 21

3 7
11

15 19 23

No. 66.

MOCK QUILTING AND SATIN

DRAUGHT.
32
31

RIB,

30

29
28 27
17

26 25
19

18

16
I.

24
23
21

20
22

14
13
11

10 12

CORDING.

lo IP

1 1

o o

o o

o
o

o o o o
1

jo

Oj
o

0|0
o|

|o

|o|
1

Ml
1

1.0

|ojo 0|0
1

o o

o o o

MoM Mo Ml M M MM
1
|

10

987654321
1

150

ESSAY

II.

No. 67.

SMALL KING'S CORD.

1 |

12
1 i
1

10 9

6 5

| |

4
j

j
j

8
j j j |

2
7
1

|
|

|0|

No. 68.

DOUBLE BOUND VELVETEEN.

| | | | |
|

o
|

jo
|

>

|0|
1 1

M |0|||j0|0jj0|
|

|0|0| |0|0|
1

2
3

|0|
j
|

4
5 6

11

7
1
1 |

I.OJOJ
| | |

ll
I i

9
|

10
11

12
|

No. 69.

DUTCH CORD.
|
|

191
o
o
1 1 |

11
1 i

2
3

4
5

ll
|

ll
j

6
7

o
1 1

o
1 1

o o

8
I
1

o
1

i0
11

fo|
i
1

o
|
|

12

TWEELING.
The
and the great variety of examples of
different species of
sufficient to

151

explanations given of the principles of tweeling,

its

application to

manufactures,

it is

presumed, will be

convey an adequate knowledge to those

who

peruse this Essay with attention.

It will

be proper to observe, however, that a kind of

used in weaving some goods, which forms an
rule-,

tweel

is

exception to the general

side of the cloth
is

that the flushing

upon one

by the warp, and upon the other by

are equally flushed,

the weft.

Here the warp and weft

is

and the appearance of the cloth

sides.

the same

upon both

The

following are plans of the draught and cording

to effect this,
is

employed

upon a
the
is

scale of four leaves,

and
In

four treddles, which

the
first,

number

generally used.
in the

the

treading

progressive;

second,

alternate.

No.
1
i
1

1.
*

No.
II

2.

|o|o|
o
I

o
i I

2
3

II

|o| |o)
1 |

\\\
10
4
I
I

M*
I

||

joj |o| |Q
I | I

T
2
3

II

JO
2

10
3
1

4
I

In weaving very fine

teen leaves, the

silk

tweels, such as those of six-

number of

threads

drawn through each

interval of the reed is so great, that, if

woven with
in rising

single reed, they

would obstruct each other

would not be

and

sinking, and the shed

sufficiently

opened to

allow the shuttle a free passage.

To

avoid this incon-

venience, other reeds are placed behind that

which

strikes

up the weft; and the warp threads are so disposed, that

those

which pass through the same

interval in the first

152
reed, are divided

ESSAY
in passing

II.

through the second, and

again in passing through the third.

obstruction,
if

By
is

these means, the

not totally removed,

greatly lessened.

In the weaving of plain thick woollen cloths, to prevent

obstructions of the same kind, arising from the closeness

of the set and roughness of the threads, only one fourth of the warp
is

sunk and raised by one treddle, and a

second

is

pressed

down

to complete the shed,

is

between

the times
Note.

when

every shot of weft

thrown

across.

In the representation of the back harness, Plate

8. the leaves,

both of the harness and front heddles, are

a scale greatly larger than the other parts*
distinctly,

drawn upon

This was done for the purpose of showing, more

the construction of the eyesj and the other parts could

not have been represented on the same scale, without ex*

tending the plate to a very inconvenient

size.

ESSAY
ON THE

III.

WEAVING OF DOUBLE CLOTH.

THE
The

next variety
is

of

weaving

which claims our

It is

attention,

that of double cloth.

composed

of two webs, each of which consists of separate warp

and separate weft ; but the two

junction of the two webs

are
is

interwoven

at intervals.

formed by passing each

of them occasionally through the other, so that each particular part of

both

is

sometimes above, and sometimes

below.

This species of weaving

to the

is,

almost exclusively, confined

this country.

manufacture of carpets, in
is

The

texture

generally the

same

as

that

of plain cloth,

although some are manufactured with cut flushing, similar

to
velvet.

The

material

employed

is

generally dyed

woollen, and, as almost

all

carpets are decorated with

fanciful ornaments, the colours of the

two webs

are dif-

ferent; and they are

made

to pass through each other, at

such intervals as will form the pattern required.

it

Hence
is

arises, that

the pattern on each side of a carpet

the

same> but the colours are reversed.

154
More
colours than

ESSAY
two

III.

are frequently introduced into

illustrating the

carpets, but as the

most simple mode of

general principle and process,

stance, confine our attention to

we

shall^ in

the

first

in-

CARPETS OF

TWO

COLOURS.

As we have
a carpet
is

formerly supposed the warp of tweels to

be white, and the weft black,

to be

we

shall

now

suppose that

woven, one web of which

shall

be white,

and the other black.

Let us also suppose the pattern to

first

be the same with that given as the

fanciful tweeling;
that
is,

example of

a representation of a checker

board, the squares of which are black and white alternately, as in Fig. 1. Plate 6. already referred to.

web

of this kind

of heddles,

may be wrought with eight leaves moved by eight treddles. The draught of the
which follows:

warp, and application of the raising cords, will appear by

the plan of draught and cording

Black above.
I
1

White above.
||

|
|

7
8

|0|
1

i
|

||

||

oj OJ
|

6
5

4
3

2
1

White 1 White 2
Black 3

7 8

|0[0|
S

|f

Black 4

o O o

u
||

fo
8
i

7 6
7

4
3

2
I

White 5 White 6
Black 7
Black 8

||

|0 o
|

0|0
|o
8

5
6

(OJ

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O
to
4-1

If

u O
to

O fj

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4-1

o
CO

O
CO
4-1

4-1

CO
to
4->

CO

CO

CO

^!

u
J3

^!
rj

U4
J3
4->

^4

U3 tJ
CM

n
4->

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-d
N
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eo

CN

CO !

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CM

4-

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t-i

CO
11

White above.

Black above.

DOUBLE CLOTH.
By examining
two warps
of heddles,
will plainly appear, for in each of the

155

the preceding plan, the draught of the

two

sets

two

leaves contain the white warp,

splitful

and two

the

black,
is

and one

of each,

containing
is

two

threads,

drawn

alternately.

The web

also wefted,

by throwing across a shot of white and a shot of black,

alternately.

Now, we
which
is

are to suppose, that in the portion of warp,

represented as

drawn through the four front

to

leaves, the black

warp

is

be wrought above, and the

white warp below j and, that the four back leaves exactly
reverse this operation.

Let us then examine what

effect

each treddle will produce,

cording to the plan.

when

the cording
1

is

applied ac-

Let the treddle

be pressed down,

and a shot of white weft be thrown across.

The

cording

which connects
white leaves
1

this treddle

with the

leaves, raises the

6.

and

5,

and sinks those marked 2 and

Thus one

half of the white

is

warp

is

raised, the other half is

sunk, and as the warp

drawn through each leaf alternately,

plain white cloth will be produced.

At

this tread, the black

warp

is

not interwoven at
is

all,

for, in the

back

set

of leaves,

where the white

to be above, both the black leaves 3

set,

and 4 are sunk; and in the front

takes place, both the black leaves 7

where the reverse

raised.

and 8 are

The

white weft, therefore, passes over the former, and under

the latter, perfectly clear of both,

Let the treddle 2 be

next pressed down, and a black shot be thrown across.

This treddle
those

raises the black leaves 3

8.

and

7,

and sinks

marked 4 and

This, therefore, produces plain

black cloth, as the former did white.

not interwoven, for the white leaves
set,
1

Here the white

and 2,
in the

is

back
5,

are both raised,

and those in the front

set,

4 and

are both sunk.

The

third treddle again weaves white

156

essay ni.
which were
raised

cloth, sinking the white threads

by the

treddle 1, and raising those

which were sunk. The fourth same way.

treddles-

treddle again produces black cloth, in the

So long

as the

weaver continues to tread these

in succession, the effect, as in tweeling, will continue the

same, and the web,

when

finished,

would have the apBut, to produce

pearance of a black and white

the checker,
shifts to the

stripe.

when one

set of squares are

completed, he

second set of treddles 5, 6, 7, 8, which reit

verse the effect, raising the white where

was formerly

sunk, and sinking

it

where

it

was

raised.
all

This

is

the principle
its

upon which

double cloth

is

woven, and

application to fanciful ornament forms the

only variety in the mounting of the looms.

Carpets are

seldom wrought with leaves and treddles, nor are they

well fitted for this branch of weaving.

The

materials

being coarse and ponderous, the webs frequently broad,

and the range of pattern generally extensive, there would

neither be

room

for the leaves required, nor could the

weaver exert the power necessary for treading.

An
range

apparatus, similar to the back harness, formerly

described,
is

may be used

for

some

patterns; and
in the

when

the

extensive, carpets

must be woven

draw loom-

Very few
to explain

carpets, if any, are

woven

in this country,

excepting in draw looms.

It will

be curious, however,*
a

how

they

may be wrought by
which
subsists

back harness,

and

to trace the analogy,

cloth.

between tweeling

and double

The mode

of weaving carpets, as

now

practised, will then be investigated,

To

illustrate

the application of the harness to carpet

weaving,

we

shall again

recur to the checker pattern, and

it

compare the enect of working

by a harness, with
it

the,

explanation already given of mounting

with leaves,

DOUBLE CLOTH.
1 st

157
B

Harness l eaf

w
B

w
b

w
b

2d Harness leaf

bwwww
B B

^ 3
13
J

o I I - m ^
.ti

*u

3 ^
CO

13
CM
r
I

1*1
1*
*
I

*l o|
x
1

7 8

5
6

2 3

4
5 3

2
1

8
7 8

6
5

4
3

2
1

White White
Black Black

|o' 4
3

*l 1*1 8

2J
may be wrought by
this

The
and

checker pattern

mounting,

will

produce exactly the same

effect as the former.

illustrate the

comparison of the two will be useful to

difference

between leaves and harness mounting.

In the

former, eight leaves and eight treddles were necessary;

in this, six leaves

and four treddles are

sufficient.

The
levers

two back

leaves

form the harness, and

are raised

by

and cords, suspended over the weaver's head,

in the last Essay,
letter

as described

and represented

in Fig. 1. Plate 8.

The

represents one splitful, or

letter b,

two

threads, of white

warp ; the
weaving,

one

splitful
is

of black.

In this kind of
are

when

the harness

used,

two threads

drawn

through each eye.

leaves,

The

front

mounting

consists of four

moved by four

treddles.

The draught

of both

warps, through the harness, will appear by inspecting the

plan-,

each letter representing two threads, as above stated.

Of

the front leaves,

two contain the white, and two the

is

black warp.
the figures.

The
first

succession of drawing

denoted by

When
the
first

the

leaf of the harness

is

raised, press

treddle,

and throw a white shot

across.

down The

white and black warp, being, alternately, drawn through

158

ESSAY

III.

the harness leaf, according to the range of the pattern, the white will be raised in the one set of checkers, and
the black in the other.
treddle
raises

The

cording applied to the

first

the white leaf 1, and sinks the leaf 2.

This treddle
leaves,
letter

has

no connection with the two black

stationary.

which remain
is

In this instance, the

used,

where no connection between the heddles

and treddles ought to be made. be used, wherever a similar case

raises

The same letter will occurs. The leaf 1

of white in the second

one thread of every

leaf,

splitful

harness

and the

leaf

2 sinks one thread of every

is,

splitful in the first leaf.

Plain white cloth

this treddle.

therefore,

produced by the operation of

The white
passes.

will be above, or below, according to the situation of

the harness leaf through

which the warp

effect

The
third

second treddle produces the same

upon the black

warp, which the

first

does upon the white.

The
first

and fourth treddles complete the operation.

range of checkers has been completed, the
leaf
is

When

one

harness

lowered, and the second raised.

This reverses

the situation of the

two warps, and the operation proeyes of the heddles in the front

ceeds as before.

The

mounting, are of a length rather more than the whole

depth of the shed, as in tweeling.
harness leaves are
wails,

The

eyes of the

made

of tin or copper, and are called

by weavers.
are

There
leaves,
cloth.

many

different plans for raising the harness

whether used for fancy tweeling or for double

It is

not easy to determine which

is

the best;

for

upon

this,

as in all other practical applications of the

mechanical powers,

much diversity of

opinion has existed,

and probably will continue to

exist.

In general, the

superiority of one plan to another

must be ascertained

DOUBLE CLOTH.

159

by particular circumstances, rather than by precise rules.

In the representations given in Plate 8. the harness leaves
are raised
their

by means of two

parallel levers,
is

moving upon

centres.

When
it is

there
it

sufficient

room

for an

apparatus of this kind,

seems well adapted to the purIf accurately constructed,

pose for which

the

intended.

two ends of the

however,

leaf will rise equally, and, conseIt

quently, the shed will be equally deep in every part.

is,

much more common,

all

in extensive harness

mountings, to raise
over pullies.

the leaves, by

means of cords passing

A cord is fixed to either side of the leaf, near

two cords meet
in the centre, in
is

the extremity, and the

an oblique direction, nearly similar to what

in Fig. 1. Plate 5.

represented
is

Each

cord, passing over a pully,

then brought, in a horizontal direction, over the weaver's

seat,

and made

fast to a piece of

wood, generally nailed

to the upper cross rail of the loom.

To

each of these

cords another

is

attached,

which passes through the board,

Fig. 3. Plate 8, as formerly described.

at the

When
is

the handle

lower end of one of these cords

pulled down,

the leaf or leaves attached to the cording rise, and as

before, the knot

upon the cord

is

secured by the notch in

the board, until an alteration

becomes necessary.

In comparing these ways of mounting a back harness,

it

will

be obvious, that the plan exhibited in the Plate

other.

is

more steady and secure than the

levers

The

parallel

by which the leaves are

raised, if

made of sound
by

wood, and properly seasoned,

the variation of the weather,
will
rise

will be little affected

and the

leaves, of course,

regularly and equally at both ends.

This

is

very important in weaving tweels and carpets,

where the

breadth of the

web

is

frequently two or three yards.

is

The mounting by cords, however,

cheaper, and occupies

160
less

ESSAY

III.

room.

But hempen cords, which

are generally used,

besides their tendency to stretch

when new,

are very

considerably affected by every vicissitude of the atmosphere, and, therefore, less dependence ought to be placed

upon
I

their operation.

have often thought that

when looms

are

mounted
is

for

fancy weaving, particularly where the fabric

the

thick,

and

power required

great, the substitution of wires for

cords would be a material improvement.

perfectly uniform in
all

A wire
from
its

remains
superior

seasons, and,

strength,

would

last

for

many

years.

Cords, on the

contrary, besides being contracted or relaxed

by every

change of the atmosphere, are very apt to rot from damp

or moisture,
I

which

is

very

common

in weaver's shops.

am

aware, that the expence of mounting a loom with

wires, will

form

a serious objection

when

a variety of

work

is

wanted, and the mounting, of course, frequently

But,

changed.

when

there

is

a rational prospect of a

loom being employed

pattern, I
best,
is

for a length of time

it

upon the same

mounting

am

convinced that

will be

found not only the

but eventually the cheapest plan.

When

extensive, and

much

cordage required, great pains are

frequently necessary to keep the whole regular, and

much
If

time

is

lost

in regulating and repairing the cords.

wires are used, the leaves must be raised by levers; for

wire, however
flexibility to

much

softened, does not possess sufficient

a pully.

bend over

The

wires should be

lackered or painted, to preserve them from rusting, and

their lengths

may be

regulated with great accuracy,

by

means of temper screws.

merely as an opinion, for
I

The

above, however,

is

given

have never known the experia doubt, that

it

ment

tried;

but

do not entertain

would

be found a material improvement.

DOUBLE CLOTH.
But
always,
in actual practice,

161
if

carpets are generally,

not

woven

in the

draw loom.
1 shall,
therefore, before proceeding, endeavour to

describe and illustrate the principle and construction of

this extensive

and useful machine, and to trace the

dif-

ference which generally subsists between those which are

used for double cloths or carpets, and those employed for

the manufacture of damasks,

which

are fancy tweels of

the most extensive range of pattern.

Draw

looms, as

noticed in the Essay on tweeling, are 'also used for spot

weaving,

when

the pattern

is

extensive; but the construc-

tion of these differs very little

from the others, and the

I

small deviations shall be noticed in the proper place.

preferred postponing the description of the

damask draw

loom, until

could also introduce that for carpets j both

for the sake of tracing the analogy

between them, and

to afford further opportunities of extending

my

inquiries
are,

and examinations, respecting these machines* which

by much, the most complicated used by weavers.

this

I offer

apology for inserting the observations upon damask,

a part of the Essay

which properly form

in this place.
It

upon tweeling,

would be

difficult,

if

not impossible, to give repre-

sentations of the full

mounting of an extensive draw loom,

is

for the

number of cords

so

immense, and they

are,
it

necessarily placed so close together to save room, that

would only

create unnecessary confusion to attempt to

I

delineate the whole.

have

lately

seen a damask draw

is

loom

at

Dunfermline, where that manufacture

carried
I

to great extent

and perfection.

This loom, which

was

162

ESSAY

III.
-

assured was not the most extensive in the place , contained

120 designs of 10 spaces each, and, consequently, was

adapted to work a pattern as extensive as could have been
effected

by 1200

leaves,
I

upon the plan of the back harness

upon
Hmited plan, for the

formerly described.

have, therefore, represented specia

mens of
in the

the working parts

most extensive are only continuations of the most limited,

same -regular succession.

will be

These plans

found

in Plate 9.
is

The

use of the draw loom

to

combine much mount-

ing in a small space ; consequently, the shafts, and every

other part which
the
is

composed of wood,

are avoided, and

moving apparatus

consists entirely of cordage.

That

part of the apparatus

which
is

serves as a substitute for the

heddles of other looms,

called the harness,

and passes

through a

flat

board containing a number of holes or

In Fig.
1.

other divisions.

the edge of the board

it

is

re-

presented at C, and the harness passing through

at

H.
is

The

figure

is

a transverse elevation of that part

which

peculiar to the

draw loom, the front

and
all

leaves,

which are

worked by

treddles,

other parts in front being

taken away for the purpose

of showing

these

parts.

In the draw loom, the draught of the warp through the

mails of the harness
in tweeling-,
is
is

always in uniform succession, as

but

it

customary to draw a number of

threads through the same mail, as in the back harness

used for the diaper.

Indeed, the draw loom harness

is

merely an extension of the former, effecting the same end

by

different

means.

Fig. 2.

is

a representation of the flat

is

side of the board, the

edge of which

seen in Fig.

1.

to

show

the

way

in

which the

holes, or divisions, through

which the harness

passes, are placed.

is

Near the centre

of each twine of the harness,

the copper or pewter

DOUBLE CLOTH.
anail,

163
is

which

serves as the eye,

and each

kept tight by

a small weight (generally of lead)

hung

to the bottom.

Kow,
is

if

we

are to suppose that the range of the pattern

is

100 spaces of the design, for 1000 or any number

only an extension of the same principle, then the 1st,

101st, 201st,

&e. twines,

after passing

through the board

at

are to be knotted -together, because

all rise

once, each

being the

first

of a

new

design.

In like manner, the

2d, 102d, &c. are knotted, and so on until the whole

succession of 100
is

completed.

To

each of these a

cord

is

then

tied,

which

after passing over a pully in the

is

box

(containing in this case 100 pullies)

fastened,

in a horizontal direction, to a fixture

on one

side of the

loom, and nearly level with the box A.

part of these cords
is

The

horizontal

marked B, and
tail.

this part of the

tail,

mounting

is

called the
is

To

each cord in the

another .cord

tied at a convenient distance .on

one side

of the loom, and passes perpendicularly towards the floor,

near which they are

all

made

fast to a

cross piece of

wood.

These cords

are called simples,

and are

distinis

guished by the letter D.

Another stout cord F

then

stretched from the roof to the floor, parallel to, and at a

small distance from the simples.

These operations being

performed, the whole must be made uniformly tight, and

care

must be taken

that

all

the mails are level and of a

is

proper height.

The warp

then to be drawn through

as

the mails and front mounting, successively,

before

mentioned, and the remaining parts for

to

lifting the

harness

form the design are

If the connection

to be applied.
is

from the harness to the simples

traced,

it

will be evident that

to

when any

simple

is

either

pulled

down, or strongly

one

side, it will raise all the

twines and mails with which

it is

connected j and,

when

164

ESSAY

III.

relieved, they will be pulled

back to their former places,

by the weights which

are fastened to each.

As

the
it

simples are very numerous and close to each other,

would be impossible,

in a

heavy design, to
pulled,

select those

which should be successively

waste of time,
selection are

without a great

unless

means of regular and speedy

This
is

employed.

effected

by means of

another set of cords called

lashes^

represented at E, and

connecting the simples with the cord F, upon both of

which the

lashes slide easily

up and down.

The

applica-

tion of the lashes to the simples

must be regulated by the

is

pattern to be produced, and this

called

REARING ON THE DESIGN.

This

operation, from the complexity of the patterns,

is

and the necessity of accuracy,

generally performed

by

two persons.
the same,

The

pattern, being

drawn upon design

paper, points out what mails are to be raised, or which

is

what simples
It
is

are to be pulled at every change

of the harness.

the business, therefore, of one

select,

person to read, or rather to

from the paper what

simples are to have lashes applied to them at every change.

The

other person, following "the instructions which he

passes
out.

receives,

lash

round every simple which

is

pointed

He

then knots the lashes together, and

connects the other end with the cord

it,

F by

a loop

round
other

so that the lashes

may

slide freely

upon

it.

The

end passing loosely round each simple,

also slides freely

upon them.
the simples

The lashes must be uniformly tied, that may be pulled equally. A single instance

will be sufficient, to illustrate

how

the design

is

taken

from the design paper.

DOUBLE CLOTH,
Let Fig. 14. Plate

165

4. represent the design of a flower,

any number of which are to be woven, at certain intervals,

by the draw loom.
-

By counting

the spaces

upon the
45 by
gives

design paper,

it

will appear that this flower covers

the breadth, and 35 the

by the length.
in

The former

number of mails
working.

one flower ; and the

the

latter,

the

number of changes which

while
it is

harness must undergo

When

the

warp has been regularly

drawn, and the simples applied, the lashes are to be

placed according to the design.

In

this case,

every square

which
ning

is

black, represents a simple to be raised.

Begin-

at the

bottom,

it

appears that only two mails are to

be raised for the stem of the flower, and counting from

the right hand, these will be raised

by the 31st and 32d

simple.

The

instruction, therefore, given to the person

who

applies

the lashes

is;

Pass thirty and take two.

On the

second row of squares, part of the flower as well

as the stem,

must be

raised,

and by counting

as before

from the

right, passing the white,

and taking the black,

the direction will be; Pass 18, take 3; pass 8 and take 2.

On

the third,

two other

parts

come

in: therefore, pass

10, take 3; pass 5, take 5; pass 7, take 2; pass 7 and

take 4.
until the

In the same way, the operations are continued

whole 35 are completed, always passing the

white, and taking the black.

I shall

add the whole instructions for

this flower,

by

comparing which with the design, the principle may be

sufficiently understood,

and

all

damask

patterns,

however

extensive, are done exactly

1st,

on the same plan.

Pass 30 and take 2.

2d, Pass 18, take 3; pass 8 and take 2.

3d, Pass 10, take 3; pass 5, take 5; pass 7, take -2$
pass 7

and take

4.

166

ESSAY

III.

4th, Pass 9, take 5; pass 4, take 5; pass 6, take 3,

pass 6 and take 6.

5th, Pass 8, take 7$ pass 3, take 5; pass 6, take 4

pass 4 and take 7.

6th, Pass 8, take
7*,

pass 4, take

5-,

pass 6, take 2

pass 2, take 2; pass 2 and take 8.

7th, Pass 8, take 7; pass 4, take 2; pass 6, take 3

pass 2 and take 11.

8th, Pass 9, take 5; pass 5, take 2; pass 5, take 4

pass 2, take 2 5 pass 3 and take 4.

9th, Pass 10, take 3; pass 8, take 2j pass 2, take 4

pass 4 and take 2.

10th, Pass 11, take

pass 4 and take 2.

2*,

pass 10, take 2; pass 2, take 2

11th, Pass 11, take 2; pass 10, take 3; pass 2, take 2

pass 6 and take 2.
12th, Pass 13, take 3; pass 3, take 3; pass 4, take 2

pass 6 and take 5.

13th, Pass 16, take 4; pass

take 8.

5,

take %\ pass 8 and

14th, Pass 25, take 2 5 pass 8 and take 9. 15th, Pass 24, take 2; pass 10 and take 9.

16th, Pass 8, take 3j pass 13, take 2; pass 11 and

take 8.

17th, Pass 7, take 5;

pass 11, take 2; pass 14 and

take 6.
18th,
take 3.

Pass 7, take 6$

pass 9, take

3-,

pass 16 and

19th, Pass 7, take 65 pass 8, take 4.

20th, Pass 7, take

6-,

pass 7, take 5; pass 7, take 4.

21st, Pass 1, take 3; pass 4, take 5 \ pass 6, take 2^

pass 2, take 3; pass 5, take 6.

DOUBLE CLOTH.
take 14.

167

22d, Take 6, pass 3; take 4, pass 4j take 3, pass 3,

23d, Take 7> pass 3; take 2, pass 5; take 2, pass

take 9.

3-,

24th*

Take
,

8,

pass

2-,

take 2, pass

2-,

take 2, pass 8* 3

take 2, pass 3

take 7.
take 13; pass 10, take 2; pass 5, take 4.

25th, Pass

1,

26th, Pass 2, take 5; pass 3, take 4; pass 10, take 2.

27th, Pass 10, take 2; pass 2, take 4; pass 7, take 2*

28th, Pass 8, take 4; pass 2, take 65 pass 5, take 2.

29th, Pass 7, take
5-,

pass 3, take

6*,

pass 5, take 6.

30th, Pass 7, take 5; pass 3, take 6; pass 5, take 8.

31st, Pass 6, take 6; pass 3, take 6; pass 6, take 8.

32d, Pass 6, take 5; pass 5, take 5; pass 6, take 8. 33d, Pass 6, take 5; pass 6, take 3; pass 8, take
34th, Pass 6, take 5; pass 19, take 3.
35th, Pass 7, take 3.
7,

From
wrought

this

it

will appear, that the shape of every pattern

in the

draw loom, depends

the lashes and

entirely

upon the

mode of connecting
course, the pattern

the simples.

Of
any

may be

altered at pleasure, to

other

which does not exceed the range of the mounting,

this

merely by changing the order of

will also

connection.

It

be obvious, that in ascertaining the order from

the design paper, the connection of the lashes with the

simples,
is

denoted by counting from right to

left,

or

vice versa,

and that the number of changes, and conse-

quently the

number and arrangement of

is,

sets of lashes

on the cord F,

in like

manner, ascertained by counting

the design from the bottom to the top.

generally placed lowest

The

first set is

upon the cord, and the

it.

rest in

regular

succession above
at

The

sets

are connected

with each other,

convenient distances, by pieces of

168

ESSAY
When
is

III.

twine; so that by a slight pull, they will follow each

other in regular order.
pleted,
all

the connections are

com-

the

sets

are pushed

up nearly

to

the top

of the cord F.
persons, one of

The loom

then to be worked by two

whom

pulls the draught,

and the other

fore

manages the
ing
is

treddles, shuttle,

and

lay.

The

mount-

exactly the same, in every respect, as the diaper

harness, and the

tweel.
are

number of

leaves equal to one set of the

For the ordinary

used, but

qualities of

damasks,

five leaves

commonly

many of

the finest are wrought

with eight.

When

the operators are ready to begin, the person

first set

who

draws, pulls the

of lashes down, and then by

tail,

drawing the simples, and consequently the

raises
is

that part of the harness attached to the part

pulled.

which

The weaver

then works until a change of the

harness becomes necessary.

slacks the simples

The

person

who

draws, then
pulls

which had been drawn,

down

the second set of lashes and draws the simples as before; the
is

weaver proceeds

to

work

until another

change
is

required, and so on until the whole pattern

com-

pleted.

In the design given, the weaver

is

to

work once
this
is

over his treddles between every change,

generally the case in

and

damask weaving.
is

When the
it is

mounting of the draw loom

very extensive,

found convenient to have two, and sometimes three

pullies*,

boxes of

for

were the whole number of

it

pullies

placed in one box or frame,

inconvenient size.

must be extended

to a very

These are placed

by the dotted
is

parallel to

each

other, as represented

lines Fig. 1.

and an
It

equal portion of the cordage

is

conducted over each.

also

common,

to have three or four different sets of

simples, and lashes.

One

set of these is stretched,

and

DOUBLE CLOTH.
the others are loose;

169

and each

set is stretched in turn,

is

when
times,
sity

a different part of the pattern

different attempts have

to

be wrought.
at various

Many

been made,

and with various success, to supersede the necesweaver may

of employing an additional person to draw the lashes,

so, that the

by constructing the apparatus

draw the harness,

as well as

work the

treddles.

The
and

most recent, and probably the most generally adopted of

these plans,
is

one which has been

it

lately invented
is

introduced at Dunfermline, where

now

very com-

mon.

It is

known

there,

by the name of the

PATENT DRAW LOOM.

In
this

loom, the

tail

of the harness, instead of being

carried over pullies to one side, extends perpendicularly

upward, and
each cord
roof,
is

is

fastened to the roof of the shop.

Upon
The

a knot, at a convenient distance

from the

and

all

the knots must be at an equal heighth;

simples extend horizontally over the weavers' head, where

they are

made

fast

and the lashes hang down from these,

as
it

and have generally a small handle, or bob,

quently called, attached to each.
the comb, from
its

is

fre-

An

instrument, called

figure,
its

is

hung

in a horizontal position,

and moveable on
of the
as
it

centres.

The

appearance and shape

comb
it

will be

found

in Fig. 4.

which represents
or below.

it

appears

when viewed from above

b the

In

Fig. 5.

appears as viewed on one side.

In both these

figures, a represents the centres,

teeth, c the pull,

d a few cords representing the relative situation of the

tail

of the harness to the comb, e cords representing

In

simples, and f Fig. 5. the situation of the lashes.

Fig. 5. the operation
is

represented by

two cords of the

170
tail d,

ESSAY

III.

one of which has the knot drawn into the teeth h f

is

and the other

disengaged.

"When the weaver

pulls

down any

particular set of lashes, those simples to

which

they are attached, are drawn into the oblique direction,

as at e, and, consequently, pull those cords of the
tail

to

which they

are tied

between the teeth of the comb.

at c,

The
as the

end of the lever projecting

and secured by a knot

being then pulled down,

in a notch, in the

same way

diaper harness mounting, the teeth rise, and by means of

the knots> carry up that part of the harness which

is

drawn betwixt the

teeth, whilst all the rest remains free.

When

a change

is

wanted, the comb

is let

down, and the

quit the

simples being slacked, the cords of the

tail

comb;

another set
the

is

drawn

in

by pulling another

set of lashes,.

comb

is

again raised and secured as before, and the

operation proceeds.

one hand, and

very
little

raises
is

The weaver pulls the lashes with the comb with the other, so that
in

time

consumed

changing the harness.

to possess

The
loom.

patent

draw loom seems

some very ob*

vious advantages, which are not to be found in the old

It saves

the labour of an additional person, and

the operation seems to be conducted altogether, or nearly,

as quick.
shorter,

2dly, Both the

tail

and simples are

less

much
the

and,

consequently, require

cordage;

boxes or frames of pullies are unnecessary, and the space

occupied by the simples
at the side of the
is

loom

is

saved:

and Sdly, The mechanical apparatus

so applied, that

much

less

power

is

required to raise the harness, which

in

must be of considerable advantage

looms, where the strength required
is

heavy mounted

very considerable.
is

By
will

reducing the

way

in

which the power

applied in

both cases, to the elementary principles, the difference be found to be very great*
In the
first

case, one

end

DOUBLE CLOTH.
^f the
tail
is

171
all

made

fast,

and the other sustains

the

weights attached to the harness.

pulled
tail,

The

simples which are

down

to raise the harness

is

are connected to the

between the end which

fast

and the

pullies.

Conweight

sequently, the simples act in the

fixed to
a

same

ratio y as a

moving

pully,

suspended by a rope passing

is

through the pully, and of which rope one end

fast.

made

It

has been often demonstrated, that a weight, say

will be balanced

of 2
only

lbs. in this situation,

1 lb.

by another of

suspended from the other end of the rope, after

passing over a fixed pully.

Hence

the weight, or the

power, which
to pull

is

the same thing, applied to the simples

them down, must be somewhat more than double

of
all

the

sum

the weights, attached to that part of the

is

harness which

to be raised.

See Emerson's Mechanics,

treatise.
is

Prop. 27, or almost any elementary

But

in the case

of the patent loom, the harness

raised perpendicularly

by the comb; consequently, no

more power

is

required than will overcome the

if

sum of

the weights to be raised; and

the lever, at the end of

which the comb

parts,

is

fixed,

be divided into three equal

at the distance

and the centres, or pivots, placed

of

one of these parts from the comb, the power will be

again doubled: Emerson, Prop. 19.
tions,

From

these caleula->

we may

deduce, that the power required to raise

the harness of the patent loom, will be only about one

fourth of that required for the other.

But

in every species of complicated

mechanism, many

deficiencies
to the eye

and objections, which may not be obvious

of a transient spectator, frequently

become

apparent upon practical experience.

For

this reason, I

was

at pains to collect

from those

who were

daily

em-

ployed in working them, their opinions of the comparative

merits of the

two

plans.

1/2

ESSAY
the range of pattern

III.

When

was not very

great, I

found

both the general opinion and practice, which

is still

more
It

conclusive, decidedly in favour of the patent loom.

was only respecting the very highest mounted looms,

a difference of opinion seemed to exist.
that
I

that

was informed

two looms, of very extensive ranges, had been lately mounted 5 the first, of 120 designs, upon the old plan;
the second, of 125 designs,

upon the patent

plan.

Both

looms were allowed to execute their work in a very sufficient

manner, but

it

was

stated, that the

mounting of

the patent loom, although last set tp work,

was already

much

decayed, whilst that of the other, which had procloth,

duced more
Should

was impaired

in

no perceptible degree.
it

this

prove to be generally the case,

will

form

a just ground of hesitation, in preferring the

old plan, in looms of this description.

new

to the

The mounting

of

an extensive draw loom,

is

work

necessarily involving

much

time, labour, and

expence, and the loom must

a very considerable portion

therefore, be

employed for
it

of time, before
it

will indemnify the proprietor.

But

may be
I

possible, admitting

the fact to be as stated,

which

have no reason to doubt, that the difference of

the mounting of these

two looms,

in point of durability,

might be produced by some incidental or contingent

circumstances in their construction, independent of the
general principle.
inferior

The

cordage of the one might be

other,
either in

to that of the

the quality of

the stuff, in the spinning, or in both.

Some

part of

the machinery might have been imperfect in the work-

manship, and caused unnecessary friction; the mounting

might have deviated a

tension,

little

from an equal degree of

or from the true level,

which must produce

more

strain

on one part than another.

Whether any

of

DOUBLE CLOTH.
these causes did operate in this case, I

178
had no means

of ascertaining

but,

in

forming opinions respecting

complicated and expensive machines, too

much

caution

cannot be used, in investigating not only the direct

principles of construction, but
teral
all

the minute and collatheir operations.

circumstances which

may

affect

Want

of attention to this, has been

more

injurious to the

improvement and extension of

practical

mechanism, than

any circumstance which has come to

that subject.

my knowledge upon
sufficient to re-

Therefore, without offering any decided

it

opinion upon the fact stated,

may be

mark, that speculatively and abstractedly considered, the

patent loom, particularly the harness part of
to possess
it,

appears

some advantage over the other, even in point

of durability.
pullies

The
side,

tail,

instead of being conducted over

to

one

rises

perpendicularly to the roof;

consequently, the cords deviate

line,

much

less

from a

straight

and the decay which must be produced, both by the and the deflection of the cords,
It is,
is,

friction of the pullies,

almost entirely avoided.

that

however, to be allowed,

some

friction will

be produced by pulling the cords

betwixt the teeth of the comb, and afterwards, by raising

the harness, and that, in the former of these motions, the friction
is

almost at right angles to the staple of the

hemp

or lint,

which

is

a very unfavourable direction.

In these

comparisons of the old and patent draw

looms, I have endeavoured impartially, to state both the

opinions which I had collected, and the remarks which

occurred to myself.

Probably,

some time may

still

elapse, before the superiority of either will

be universally

admitted, even by those who, from their practical experience, have the best opportunities of forming an accurate

judgment upon the

subject.

174
But, in whatever

ESSAY
way
a

III.

draw loom

is

mounted, too

much
deed,

attention cannot be paid, both to the quality of the

materials,
is

and accuracy of the workmanship.

This, in-

a general rule, and will be found to apply to

every description of machinery.

No

plan of economy

can be more ruinous in

ing any piece

its effects,

than that of construct-

of mechanism of insufficient materials,

and inaccurate workmanship, for the sake of a small

reduction of the
extensive
first

expence.

The mounting

of an
four
24?

draw loom

will

occupy a man, for

at least

months.

Estimating these to be lunar months, of

working days to each, and the person, employed

in

mounting the loom,

to earn 3/. per day, the expence, for

8s.

labour alone, will amount to 14/.

before the

loom

can be
ver

set to

work.
this

Let us then suppose, that the wealoom, besides paying the person
if

who works

who
per

draws the harness,

day,
case,
try,

he employs one, can earn

if

1/.

more than he could

it

weaving plain

cloth.

In this

will require

288 working days of constant indusis

before the price of labour in mounting

repaid,
It is

exclusive of the whole expence of the materials.

plain, that

whether a weaver mounts

it

loom

for himself,

or employs another to do

for him,

the case will be

is esti-

precisely the same, for in both instances the price

mated by the labour.

given-, in the second,

In the

first

instance, labour

is

money; and, by the

supposition, the

value
let

is

the same.

But, to

make

the calculation simple,

us suppose that an operative weaver mounts the draw

is

loom, which he
tions

afterwards to work.
will

By

the supposi-*

which we have made, he

expend 96 working

days, in the mounting, before he begins to weave, and

288 working days

in

weaving, before he recovers com,

mon wages

for the time

which he has expended.

These,

DOUBLE CLOTH.
taken together,

175
to

amount

to

384 working days,

which

adding the intervening Sundays (without any allowance

for holidays, sickness, or other causes of impediment),

he

will at the

end of one year and 83 days, or nearly 15

months, be merely paid for his labour.

Now

let

us again

suppose that the money expended for materials of the

best quality, in

mounting a draw loom, amounts

to 10/.

and, that those of inferior quality, might be purchased

for

6L

Let us suppose

also, that these

two mountings

will last in proportion to their prices,

is

which, in practice,

never the case, for the vulgar adage

the best

is

always the best penny-worth," will here be found invariably true.

In this case, the former

will

last

ten

months

for every six that the latter will.

Let us then

suppose, that the worst mounting will

last for

two

years,

and the best for three years and four months; the calculation will then

be

FOR THE WORST.

For labour,
as before

For materials

...
RETUE.N.

.14
*

20

Is.

per day for 626 working days

profit, therefore, to the

316
be 10/.
18/.

The

weaver

will

excluding interest.

FOR THE BEST.

For labour
For materials
. .

L. 14

10

24

RETURN.
1/.

per day for 1043 working days

of profit, excluding interest
.

52
*

Or

28 15

176
In both cases,
it is

ESSAY

III.

supposed, that each kind of material

has been laid in at the fair market price, and that no

imposition has been practised on the buyer.

The grounds upon which

have been taken entirely
at

these calculations are made,

random, to

illustrate

and
of

prove the position advanced.

Whether

the price

wages, the cost of materials, or the durability of the apparatus,

be taken high or low, the inference will be nearly

In every state of the price of labour,
if

the same.

good

materials only repay a weaver, bad will ruin

if

him; and,

bad materials yield him a

profit,

good ones would

and

yield

him much more.

deviations in
loss,

Simple

as this principle is,

easily demonstrable, there are

few from which there are

practice.
I

more

common
many
than
I

have

known
this

incalculable
deviation,

in

instances,

arise

from

and have, therefore, entered more into the

it,

consideration of

should have done, were

it

more generally understood, and

practised in the affairs of

common life. We now proceed

draw loom
to the

to consider the application of the

cloth,

weaving double

and to explain

the difference which exists between the

Damask, and

CARPET DRAW LOOM*

Carpets, being generally composed of coarse and
bulky materials, there
are, of course,

much fewer
is

splits,

or threads, in the warp, than in that of a damask; and,

consequently, the drawing apparatus

sive.

much

less

exten-

The common run

is

of carpets do not exceed 10

porters of warp, 4 threads in the split, in the breadth of

37 inchesj which
split or

equal to a 500, wrought two in the

1000 threads.

The

harness and mails of the

DOUBLE CLOTH.
carpet

177

draw loom,

are perfectly similar to those of the

damask, excepting that they are larger and coarser.

In

drawing a carpet through the harness, only one thread

passes through each mail, and one thread of each of the

two warps
the

is

drawn

alternately.

The

draught, through

harness,

proceeds in regular succession as in the

damask, and two threads of each warp pass between the

same
is

splits

of the reed, which

is,

generally, of steel.

It

found, in general, unnecessary to use simples in the

carpet

draw loom; the

lashes,

therefore,

are attached

directly to the cords of the tail,

from which they hang

down

perpendicularly at one side of the loom.

set

To

the

lower end of each

of lashes
is

is

tied a cord,

and to the

other end of this cord,

suspended a small handle, or

bob.
Fig. 6.
is

a transverse elevation of part of a carpet

lashes

draw loom, showing how the

to the
tail.

and bobs are attached

is

the box or frame of pullies,

the

tail,

the lashes,
bobs.

the board through

which the cofds

pass,

H the

The bobs

are suspended in
is

two rows,

as

represented in Fig. 7. which

a section of the board

G,

showing two of the bobs.

portion of the black

Of

these bobs, one

is

lifts

that

warp which

to

be uppermost; the
still

other

lifts

the white in the same manner, Supposing

that these are the

two colours of which the carpet

is

com-

posed.

The

four front leaves open the sheds,

two being
are exactly

set apart for the black

warp, and two for the white.

The
rather

front leaves of the carpet

draw loom

similar to those of the diaper, the eyes being of a length

more than the depth of the shed,

mounted

so that they

may

not interrupt the harness in rising.

In some looms, the

whole

is

as

a harness,
tail

and the treddles are

connected with certain of the

cords.

Upon

inquiring

178
of persons,

ESSAY
\

III.

who had been

long in the habit of working

both, I could not ascertain that any decided preference

was
very

to be given to either plan.

Both

are

found

to

do

well,

and both are generally used in different

manufactories.

Let us

now

suppose, that Fig. 14. Plate 4.

is

to

be

wrought

as a carpet,

and that the figure

is

black upon a
is

white ground.

In this case,

when

a white shot

thrown

across, the figure

must be
is

raised,

and the ground sunk;

and when a black shot

raised,

inserted, the

ground

is

to

be

and the figure sunk.

For the

first,

the instruc-

tions, in reading on, will

be the same with those given

for damask,

and for the second, directly the reverse.

As

the shots of weft are thrown in alternately, the harness

must be changed
bobs are placed in

at every shot,

and for

this reason the

7.

pairs, as represented

by Fig.

The

instructions, therefore, will be

1st.

White

shot, pass

30 and take

2.

Black shot, take 30, pass 2, take 13.

and so on, whatever

in the other.

is

passed in the one case, being taken

Different plans have been tried in carpet weaving, as

well as damask, to supersede the use of the draw boy.

Hitherto,

none of them have come into very general

seems no reason to doubt that way.
Carpet weav-

practice, although there

some saving may be

as

effected in this

ing, howevei', does not possess the

same

facilities for this

damask, for in the former, as the harness must be

at every shot, if the

changed

time of doing so should

impede the weaver even very

little,

more

will be lost than

an equivalent for the wages of a draw boy.

Besides this^

DOUBLE CLOTH.
as the

179
he
is

weaver must

shift his shuttle at every shot,

sufficiently

occupied without being obliged to change his

harness.

Carpets are seldom warped upon mills, for the yarn

being very coarse, the warp
stretched.
is

found not

to be sufficiently

A
is

square frame of

wood

is,

therefore,

com-

monly used, with pins

the

at certain distances,

over which
similar

warp

stretched

by the warper,

in a

manner

to the old practice, described in the first Essay.

As

the

warps of carpets do not contain many threads,

tice is

this prac-

considered sufficiently expeditious.

carpets consist of

When
are

more than two

same

colours, they

woven

exactly as checks, and merely require addias the

tional shuttles to insert the weft, the

warp.
not

There

is

no other difference

in the process.

It is

yet customary to use the fly shuttle in carpet weaving,

and when the webs are too broad for one man to

stretch,

two

are employed,

one

at

each side of the loom.

Many
cloths,

kinds of carpeting for rugs, passage, and stair

also

&c. are
are

woven

in the plain loom.

Carpets
velvet,

also
is

manufactured

with

flushing
this
is

like

which

afterwards cut.

When
is

the case,

wires are introduced into the shed, to form the length of

the flushing.

In each of these wires

a groove,

and

when
knife
for
it.

the weft has been thrown across, a sharp pointed

is

passed along the groove, which serves as a guide

The

wire

is

thus relieved, and the cut

either

warp

forms the flushing.

These may
on

be wrought plain,

or in figures raised by the harness.

is

This manufacture

chiefly carried

at

Kidderminster,

and has hardly

the name,
it

been introduced

at all in Scotland.

From

appears to have been originally imported from Turkey,

Very elegant

carpets are also manufactured in France.

180

ESSAY
upon the same

III.

Quiltings are also double cloths, and are manufactured

exactly
principle as carpets.

The two
chiefly

webs
ture

are generally of the

is

same

colour.

This manufac-

also derived

from the French, and was

carried

on

in the neighbourhood of Marseilles.

Those-

made

in England, are generally of cotton.

ESSAY
ON THE

IV.

WEAVING OF CROSSED WARPS.

'"THHE
r*-

ornamental kinds of weaving, which form the

subject of the 2d and 3d Essays, are those peculiar

to stout fabrics of cloth, of various descriptions.

That

which we

are

now

to investigate,

is

exclusively adapted

to the slightest

and most flimsy

art,

textures.
first

Like the other

branches of the
cross weaving

we

derived our

knowledge of
species of

from the continent \ but,

this

weaving has certainly been much improved, and a considerable variety of nets added,

by the invention and

in-

genuity of weavers in this country.

The manufacture
carried

of cross

woven goods

is,

chiefly,

on

in

Glasgow, Paisley, and the neighbouring Lanark and Renfrew,

in the

villages in the counties of

west of Scotland.

Some

attempts have, indeed, been

to

made

in

different

parts of England,

introduce this
the success

manufacture-, but, whatever

may have been

of these experiments,

it

does not appear that they have

ever been prosecuted to any considerable extent.

The

first

branch of cross weaving, and of which

is

all

the others are only varieties,

182

ESSAY

IV.

GAUZE.
In
all

the species of weaving,

which we have hitherto

remain always parallel

considered, the threads of the warp, whether raised and

sunk alternately, or
to

at intervals,

each other,

and without crossing.

But

in

gauze

weaving, the two threads of warp, which pass between

the same splits of the reed, are crossed over each other,

and twined
to the right

like a

cord at every tread.

left alternately,

They

are twined

and

and each shot of weft

Fig.

preserves the twine which the warp has received.

15. Plate 4.
is

a representation of gauze,

drawn,

like the

other specimens of cloth in the same plate, upon a large

scale,

and

will,

by

attentive observation, exhibit the cross-

ings of the warp, and intersections of the weft.

To

produce

this appearance,
really

it

is

only necessary that the

warp should
its

be crossed at every second shot; for

return from the crossed to the open, or parallel state,

gives the reversed crossing.

The whole

variety

in

every branch

of the

art

of

weaving, consists merely in the way of forming the

sheds; and, as this
is

effected

by the heddles, and

their

connections with the treddles which

move them; the

in the

whole knowledge of the

art, consists

arrangement

of this part of the apparatus of a loom.

Representations of the mounting, peculiar to gauze

weaving, will be found in Plate 10.

Fig.

1.

represents

two threads of warp, opened

the

to

form the shed, where

it is

warp

is

not crossed, and Fig. 2. the shed where

crossed.

The mounting,
leaves.

of a gauze loom, consists of

four leaves, constructed like

common

clasped heddles,

and of two half

The

leaves are raised and sunk,

by means of top

levers, or coupers,

and marches, exactly

CROSS WEAVING.
in the

183

same way

as in

most other ornamental looms, and

as represented in Fig. 1. Plate 5.

The open shed

leaves.

of the

gauze

is

formed by the leaves 3 and 4; the cross shed, by

1

the leaves
1

and

2,

and by the half

The

leaves

and 2 are called standards, and the half leaves pass

3.
It is

through them, as represented in Fig.

necessary

to observe, that in order to produce the twine, in

forming

the sheds, the threads do not rise and sink alternately > as
in plain

weaving, nor

at

intervals

as in tweeling.

In

both sheds, the thread

is

always raised, and the thread

1.

sunk;

but in the open shed Fig.

the threads are

not crossed,

and

in the

cross shed Fig. 2.

they

are,

By examining
is

these

figures,

the

way

of drawing the
this

warp through the heddles,

will

become apparent, and

an important part of every branch of cross weaving.

thread

The

is

drawn through the

third leaf, but, as

it

always

rises,

it is

not taken through the clasp, or eye, of

it,

the heddle, but above

call

through what the weavers usually

the upper doup.

is

In like manner, the thread B, which

always sinks,
fourth
leaf.

drawn through the under doup of the

this

When
is

has been done, the thread

is

crossed over the thread B, as will appear

Fig. 5.

more

plainly in

which

a horizontal, or

ground plan.

After

being drawn through these two leaves, which are generally

called the
to

back mounting, and crossed,

it

only remains

draw the warp through the fore mounting.

is

Of

the

half leaves, one

hung from above, and one

leaf, or

rises

from

below.

The one hung from

above, passes through the

lower doup of the

standard 2, and that, hanging

1.

from below, the upper doup of the standard

will

This

appear very plain in Fig. 3.

Through

the under

half leaf, connected with the standard 1, the thread

is

drawn, and through the upper half

leaf,

connected with

ESSAY
the standard 2, the thread

IV.

passes.

In Figs.

1.

and

2.

the shaft of the upper half b, appears, as

the standards
for
it is

hung between
two standards

and 2 ; but

this is not the usual practice,

found more convenient,

to place the

together; the under half leaf a, in front of the standard

1,

and the upper half leaf b, behind the standard 2, as

3.

in Figs.

and

4.

By means
warp
is

of the half leaves, the

effected; for, in the

alternate crossing of the

open

shed Fig.

1.

the half leaves

work

in an opposite direction
rise

to the standards,

and leave room for the warp to

and sink in the space between the leaves and standards,

while, in the cross shed Fig. 2. the half leaves rise and
sink with their respective standards, and force one thread

of warp across the other.

Thus, when the warp

is

direct,
is

the half leaves are crossed, and

direct, the

when

the mounting

warp

is

crossed.

This will plainly appear, by

carefully tracing the threads

and B, in Figs.

1.

and

2.

and

also in Figs. 3.

and

4.

where

sections of the threads

3. the half leaves

are represented

by round

dots.

In Fig.

and standards are crossed

the standard
1
is

as in Fig. 1.

and

in Fig. 4. if

sunk, and the standard 2 raised, the

mounting
It

will be direct,

and the warp crossed

as in Fig. 2.

has not been the custom,

among weavers,

to repre-

sent the drawing or cording of gauzes or nets,

upon paper.

This may have arisen, in some instances, from the desire

of keeping that branch of manufacture secret.
general,
it

But, in

may be

traced to a different cause.

it

From

the

very nature of the process,

is

much more

difficult to

represent cross than parallel warp; and, as the crossings

take place, alternately, in the
these
crossings

warp and

in the heddles,

cannot be

easily

represented,

without

elevations of the machinery, as well as ground plans.

This circumstance, together with the want of attention

CROSS WEAVING.
among
cross

185

operative weavers, to
is

whom

the knowledge of

weaving

chiefly confined, to acquire a

knowledge

of mechanical drawing, has, hitherto, prevented any at-

tempt

at representation.

Their views seem never to have

gone further than horizontal plans of their heddles and

treddles,

and the formation of their pattern upon design

is

paper,

which

not well adapted to represent crossed

warp.
In

my

attempt to obviate this inconvenience,

have

merely applied the modes of drawing described in the

first

Essay, and well

mill wrights,

known among engineers, architects, and many other artificers, for the purpose
to illustrate

of adapting that kind of illustration to the weaving loom,

which they have long practised successfully,

many
loom

other branches of mechanical study.

But, in order to render the

mode

of mounting a gauze

as plain as possible, I shall enter into a

more de-

tailed description of the

mounting, than has appeared

necessary in those kinds of weaving, where the horizontal

plans of the draught and cording have been long practised

and understood by professional men.

its

The

novelty

of the subject, and

in

evident utility, should I succeed

my

explanation, will, I hope, screen

me from

the
fail

charge of unnecessary prolixity; and should I even

in rendering
this partf of the
I

knowledge of the

art so

perspicuous as
or

wish, I shall not think either

my own

my

readers' time

wholly misapplied,

if

the practica-

bility

of representing the gauze and net mountings upon

shall

paper,

be established to the satisfaction of those

interested in the manufacture.

It

has been already stated, that the gauze mounting

consists of

two back
These

leaves,

two standards, and two

treddles.

half leaves.

are

moved by two

The

186

ESSAY

IV.

intermediate levers are five top levers, or coupers, five

long, and five short marches.

Tracing the heddles in

first is
1
;

regular succession from the front, the

the under

half leaf a; the second, the front standard

the third,

the second standard 2; the fourth, the upper half leaf b;

the

fifth,

the
4.

first

back leaf 3 ; and the sixth, the second

leaves

back leaf

The two back

and the two standards,

require,

are raised or sunk, as the case

may

by connecting

cords with the marches and treddles, as in other looms.

The

half leaves have no connection with any treddle, but

are lifted and

sunk by the warp, in the open shed Fig.

and kept

tight

by weights,

in the cross

shed Fig. 2,

These weights must,

leaves in
tb.Q

therefore, operate

upon the half

relieved in the

cross shed, and

must be

open.
It will

be proper to trace the connections of the leaves

first

with the coupers and marches, in the

then, to explain the
to operate
1st,

place, and,

way

in

which the weights

are applied

upon the half

march:

leaves.
is

The lower
Plate 11

half leaf a,
it

attached by a cord below,

to the first short

has no connection above.

See

Fig.

1.

2d,

The
is

first

standard, by oblique cords, to the

first

first

couper above; the couper, to the

standard
3d,

long march; the

connected below with the second short march.

second standard, to the second couper above;

The

the couper, to the second long march; the standard, to

the third short

march

below.

4th, The. upper half leaf b, to the third couper above;

the couper, to the third long

5th,

march

no connection

below.

The

first

back leaf 3, to the fourth couper above;

1
.

the couper, to the fourth long march; the leaf

to the

fourth short

march

below.

CROSS WEAVING.
6th,

187

The second back

below.

leaf, to

the fifth couper above;

the couper, to the fifth long march-, the leaf, to the fifth
short

march

These -connections being formed,

it

only remains to

apply the weights to their respective marches, and to

connect the other marches with the treddles.

of applying the weights will appear in Fig.

The mode
1.

Plate 11.

This figure

is

a transverse section of the front part of the

mounting of

whip

net,

of which

it

will be necessary to

treat afterwards.

In the

mean

time, as the cording of

common gauze
net,
it

is

exactly the same as that of the

whip

will serve to illustrate that part of the

a,
is

mounting.

The lower half leaf

march.

connected with the first short

The upper half leaf

b,

with the third couper above, and,

march.
is,

from

thence,

with

the third long

The application From the first

.passing

of the weights
short

therefore, as follows

march two cords descend, one

march; and from
suspended.

on each

side of the first long

is

these cords, the weight

Above

the long

march, the cords are attached to each end of a piece of

wood

(generally a piece

sawed or cut from a common

bobbin), by which they are kept assunder, to prevent

them from rubbing on the long march which works

between them.
fixed

Another

piece, of the

same kind
is

y, is

below, and from this the weight

apparatus
is

suspended.

The same

applied to the third short march,

and passes upon both sides of the third long march, for
the upper half leaf,

The
z.

pieces of

wood

are distinguished

by the

letters

v and

When
pulled

the open shed

is

made, the

first

standard

is

down.

This
lifts

raises the first long

march, which,

consequently,

the weight, and allows the under half

188
leaf a, to rise.
raised.

ESSAY
At

IV.
is

the same time, the second standard

This, of course, also raises the third short march,

and

relieves the pressure of the

weight from the third

is

long march.
sink.

The upper

half leaf b,

thus allowed to

In forming this

shed,

the

standards

and half

leaves merely yield to the warp, for the raising and sink T

ing

is

entirely

produced by the back

leaves.

In the cross
and,

shed,

the back leaves have nothing

to perform,

therefore,

remain stationary, while the motion of the

standards being reversed, the weights act with their full

power, and keep the half leaves tightly drawn to that

part of the standards through

which they

pass.

From

these explanations, and from a careful examina-

tion of the Plates 10. and 11. the general principle o

weaving gauze may be pretty well understood.

The

connections of the back leaves, standards, and half leaves,

with the long and short marches> have been already

stated.

The

connections with the treddles, will be found by

5. Plate 10.

examining Fig.
similar to those

which

is

a horizontal plan,

employed, to

illustrate other

branches of

weaving.

In order to bring this as nearly as possible to

the same plan, as other plans of draughts and cordings,

similar

marks have been used.

is

The warp The

thread
first

A,

which
leaf 3,

drawn through the upper doup of the

distinguished by a black mark.

back

is is

thread B,
leaf 4,

which

drawn through the under doup of the

by

a white mark.
half leaf b,
a,

The draught The

of the warp, through the upper

is

also denoted

by

a white,

and that through

by

a black mark.

connections for raising the back

leaves and standards, are also

for sinking them, white.

marked

black;

and those

Where no
is

connection from the

marches to the treddles

necessary, the

mark

is

used,

CROSS WEAVING.
As

189
no
is

the half leaves are raised and sunk by the warp,

is

mark

used for the cording of them.

The open shed

formed by pressing down the treddle 1; the cross shed,

by the treddle

2.

The

treddle 3, merely reverses the

motion of the treddle 2, to enable the weaver to work

plain cloth as well as gauze,

when he

finds

it

convenient.
is

The

alternate motion, necessary for plain cloth,

entirely

performed by the standards and half leaves, the back

leaves remaining stationary, in this as well as the cross

shed.

But, in this shed,

it

is

necessary to connect the

marches with the plain treddle, to keep the half leaves

tight

when

the weights are raised, the fore mounting in

the plain shed, being exactly in the same situation as in

the open shed.
It

does not appear necessary to add more to these

it

explanations; but, although

I trust
it

involves a recapitulation,

will not

be deemed improper, to give the whole

connection of a gauze loom, for the use of those,

who

may be

neither fully acquainted with the subject, nor

conversant with the modes of drawing mechanical designs.

HEDDLES.
Front Mounting,
a, a half leaf; 1, a full leaf;

the shaft below. the

first

standard.

2, a full leaf j the second standard. b, a half leaf; the shaft above.

Back Mounting,
3, a full leaf;

warp through upper doup.

4, a full leaf;

warp through under doup.

190

ESSAY

IV.

CONNECTIONS WITH THE COUPERS.

First standard, 1
;

first

couper.

Second standard, 2; second couper.

Upper

half leaf, b ; third couper.

First back leaf, 3 ; fourth couper.

Second back

leaf,

*,

fifth

couper.

COUPERS TO LONG MARCHES,

First couper j first long march.

Second couper; second long march.

Third couper; third long march.
Fourth couper*, fourth long march.
Fifth couper-, fifth long march.

HEDDLES TO SHORT MARCHES.

Under

half leaf, a;
1
>

first

short march.

First standard,

second short march,

third short march.

Second standard, 2;
First back leaf, 3
;

fourth short march.

4; fifth short march*

Second back

leaf,

WEIGHTS FROM MARCHES,

First weight,

from

first

short march-, over

first

long

march.

Second weight, from

long march.

third

short march;

over third

CROSS WEAVING,
OPEN SHED TREDDLE
I.

191

Lower

half leaf, a; raised and slack.

,

First standard, 1

sunk.
2-,

Second standard,

raised.

Upper

half leaf, b ; sunk and slack.

j

First back leaf, 3

raised.

Second back

leaf,

4 ; sunk.

CROSS SHED TREDDLE

2.

Lower

half leaf, a; raised and tight.

;

First standard, 1

raised.

Second standard, 2j sunk.

Upper

half leaf,

b ; sunk and

tight.

Both back

leaves, stationary.

PLAIN SHED TREDDLE

3.

Lower

half leaf, a e sunk and tight. ,

1

First standard, 1

sunk.
2*,

Second standard,

raised.
tight.

Upper
Back

half leaf,

b \ raised and

leaves, stationary.

To form these
the marches

sheds, the following connections between

are necessary

and treddles

LONG MARCHES.
Treddle
1
,

second and fourth long march*

first

Treddle 2 ;

long march.

Treddle 3 j second and third long march,

192

eSsAy

iv.

SHORT MARCHES.
Treddle
1 ;
-,

second and

fifth short

march.

Treddle 2

third short march.

first

Treddle 3 ;

and second short inarch.

From
person,

the drawings, and descriptions, I hope, that any

who

possesses an ordinary

knowledge of common
care and attena

weaving, and

who

will study

them with

tion, will find little difficulty in

mounting
is

gauze loom.

When

the principle of gauze weaving

its.

thoroughly un-

derstood,

application to the weaving of fancy nets,

may be
used ;

easily acquired.

Many

varieties of net

work

are

but a few, which form the ground work upon

rest are

which the

formed, will be sufficient to elucidate

the general principle, and the limits, to

which

it

is

ne-

cessary to restrict this work, will not admit of

ticular details.

more par-

The most

simple of these

is

known by

the

name of

the

WHIP NET.

The
may be

term whip

is

used by weavers, to denote a species

of warp rolled upon a separate beam, and slackened, as

required, to form fanciful patterns.
is

In this net,

the whole warp

of this description, and, therefore,

roll,
is

only one beam, or

the

required.

whip net

is,

in every respect,

The mounting of the same as common

gauze, and the connections are formed exactly in the

same way.
net,

Fig. 16. Plate 4.

is

a representation of this

upon

a large scale like the others.

\t is

In every species

of net weaving,

found proper to use glass beads, in

heddles, or the metal mails

place of the eyes of

common

CROSS WEAVING.
of the tweeling and carpet harness.
great friction, occasioned
.

193
arises

This

from the
and
parts

by

alternately slackening

tightening the whip, to form the crossings.

Those

of net mountings which pass through the standards, and

perform the same operation as the half leaves used for

gauze, are called bead lams.

The two back

This
is

leaves in the

whip

net, are placed

behind
it*

the reed; the standards and bead lams, in front of

a

way
in

of placing heddles peculiar to net weaving,

cloth.

and used

no other species of

The mounting

in

front passes between the reed, and the race rod

upon

which the

shuttle runs, so that the standard

and bead

lams are moved, backward and forward, by the lay at

The principal difference of the whip net from common gauze, consists in this way of disposing
every shot.
the mounting, and in the
the warp.

way

of drawing, or leading in
cross each

The way
1 1

in

which the bead lams

other, will be seen, Fig.

1
.

by inspecting the transverse elevation

Plate

which represents the two standards

Fig. 2.
is

and bead lams before the reed.

plan of the

a horizontal

whole mounting.

The
is

crossings of

two

splitfuls are there

shown;

a,

the lower bead lam in

1

front, passing
b,
is

through the upper doup of the standard

the upper bead lam, passing through the under

doup

of the standard 2.

Both bead lams are crossed

1.

in front

of the standards, as represented in Fig.

The

threads

of warp, or whip,
in Fig. 2.
4,
is

and B, are crossed, as will appear

B, after being drawn through the back leaf

crossed over A,

which

is

drawn through the

are then
is

leaf 3,

as in

common

gauze.

These two threads

drawn
in the

through the reed together.

front mounting,
splits,

The

next crossing

where the threads,

and A, in different

and the threads,

and B, are crossed by the bead

194
lams.

ESSAY

IV.
1

Let the dots upon the standards

and 2, Fig. 2,

represent sections of the heddle twine of the standards,

and

let

the bead lams, a and b, be supposed to be quite

slack.

The

first

crossing of the threads in the

same

split

will then

be shown by the threads

and B, and the

front crossing by the bead lams a and b; for

when

these

bead lams are pulled

tight,

and the whip slackened, the

crossing of the threads will take place, and the bead

lams will be

direct.

Thus one

crossing

is

effected

by

the back, and another by the front mounting, and these

are

wrought

alternately as in gauze.

It is

unnecessary

either to represent or describe the connections of the

lieddles

with the treddles, marches, and coupers, for

they are exactly the same as in gauze.

The
is is

apparatus

by which the whip

in Fig. 3.

or

warp

is

slackened,

represented
a ratchet
is

Upon

the end of the roll d

lever

wheel and catch, above which the

placed.

From one end

suspended.

of this lever a cord descends, from which,

after passing twice

round the

roll,

the pace weight

is

is

The
is

other end of the lever c

connected
at e.

with a long march, the end of which appears

long march
i*

This

connected with the treddle

lifted
is

out of the ratchet by another

to be slackened.
is

The catch cord, when the

2.
1
is

whip

Thus, when the treddle

tight

pressed down, the whip

and

direct,

and the bead

is

lams slack and crossed.

the whip
lever c
is

When

the treddle 2

pressed,

slack

and the lams

tight.

The

range of the

may be

increased or diminished at pleasure, by

shifting the centre or

fulcrum

f,

and, consequently, the

whip may be more

quire.

or less slacked, as occasion

may

re-

The bead lam shafts

are connected to the standards

by cords gg, Fig. 1. which are called bridles, to keep the bead lams from being more tightened when forming the

CROSS WEAVING.
cross shed than
is

195
of these
if

necessary.

The tempering

cords

is

considered of essential importance; for

they

are too short, the shed will not be properly formed,

if

and

too long, the friction of the beads will very soon cut

the heddle twine of the standards.

is

very useful knot

employed

for those parts of the

in the lengths.
1, is

cordage of looms

which require nicety

snitch knot,
it.

Weavers
the

call it a

and under Fig.

shown

way

of tying

The
is that

next species of net, which comes under our notice,

which

is

known by

the

name of

the

MAIL NET.

This

net, a representation of
is

which

is

given in Pig

17. Plate 4.

merely a combination of the

common

gauze and the whip net, drawn through the reed in

alternate splitfuls.
interval,

The gauze

part passes through one

the

whip

part through the next,

and so on
gauze, or
rolls;

alternately.

The two warps, namely,

the

ground, and the whip, are, therefore, on different

for the

whip requires

to be slackened to cross the gauze,

tight.

which, in order to stretch the whip, must remain

The mounting
combined; but,
thought
it

is

exactly that of a gauze and

it

whip net

as

may be

useful in practice, I have

best, again, to represent the

whole leaves and

bead lams, and to recapitulate the connections.

The

gauze part of the mounting of the mail net

is

sometimes
a single set
this is the

made

to consist of only

two back

leaves,

and

of bead lams without any standards.

case, the

When

open shed

is

effected

by the back

leaves, the

bead lams are sunk, and crossing the under part of the
shed rise again to the upper.

Where

the cross shed

is

196
to

ESSAY
must be sunk

IV,

be formed, the back leaves, instead of remaining

to bring half of the
is

stationary,

gauze

down
shaft.

to the race rod, while the other half

raised,

and the

crossing effected, merely

by

raising the bead

lam

This apparatus

is

represented in Fig. 4. with the sinking

connections, which are effected by two short marches

h and

i,

with their centres reversed.

is

The

reason of

applying two marches,

to give the

bead lam shaft about

double the range of the other mounting, by the same

sinking of the treddle.
right

The
is

nearer to the point, or

i,

hand end, of the lower march

it

that the cord

which connects
bead lam shaft

with h

placed, the greater will be

the range of the sinking motion communicated to the

k.

The

effect of this

bead lam, to form

the crossing, will appear in the small sections of sheds

Figs. 6. and 7.

Fig. 6.

is

the cross shed, where the

7.

bead lam

is

raised,

and tight 5 Fig.

the open shed 3

is

where

it is

sunk, crossed, and slack.

Fig. 5.

ground

plan of

all

the leaves of a mail net of this construction.

Before the Reed*

a, is

the under bead

lam

shaft.

1, the first standard.

2, the second standard.

b, the

upper bead lam

shaft.

Next
k, 3,
is is

is

the Reed, behind

which

the bead lam shaft without standards, the

first

back leaf for the whip.

do.

4, the second back leaf for

5, first
6,

back leaf for the gauze.

do,

second back leaf for

CROSS WEAVING.
SHEDS OF THE MAIL NET.
Open whip
shed, t reddle 2.

197

Under lam

shaft, a; raised
1
;

and

slack.

First standard,

sunk.
raised.

Second standard, 2;

Upper lam

shaft, b;

sunk and slack

Bead lam, k;
First net leaf,

raised.
S-,

raised.

Second net
First

leaf,

4^ sunk.
stationary.

gauze

leaf, 5; leaf,

Second gauze

6j stationary.

Note. In this shed,

it is

of advantage, as before stated,

in order that the

to sink the

two gauze

leaves,

gauze

shed may be fully opened.

Two

cords are, therefore,

applied between the short marches below and the treddle,

for
this'

purpose.

It will also,

appear that in this shed,

the

whip part of the mounting forms the open shed, and

the gauze part the cross.

Cross whip shed, treddle 3.

Under lam

shaft,

a*,

raised

and

tight.

First standard, 1; raised.

Second standard, 2j sunk.

Upper lam

shaft, b;

sunk and
slack.

tight.

Bead lams, k; sunk and

First net leaf, 3
\

stationary. stationary.

Second net
First

leaf, 4;
leaf, 5;
leaf,

gauze

sunk.

Second gauze

6; raised,

198

ESSAY

IV.
1.

Plain shed, treddle

Under lam

shaft, a;

sunk and

tight*

First standard, 1; sunk.

Second standard, 2;

raised.

Upper lam

shaft, b; raised

and

tight.

Bead lams, k; sunk and

Second net
First

slack.

First net leaf, 3; stationary.

leaf,

4; stationary.

gauze

leaf, 5; raised.

Second gauze

leaf,

6; sunk,

TREDDLE CONNECTIONS,
Long Marches.
First, or plain treddle; 2, 3,

and

7.
5,

Second, or open treddle; 2, 4, and

Third, or cross treddle;
1

and

8.

Short Marches.
First, or plain treddle;
1, 2, 4,

and
6.

8,

Second, or open treddle; 2, and

Third, or cross treddle; 3, 4, and

7.

Note. In counting these short

marches from the fronts

the upper reversed

march
is

h, for

working the bead lams

its

of the gauze mounting,

not taken into account; for

i,

motion
case,
is

is

taken from the march below

which, in

this

the fourth from the front.

It may be proper
pf nets
is

to remark, that, although the fabric

is

very flimsy, considerable power

required to

move

the treddles, on account of the friction produced

by the crossings of the warp.

For

this

reason,

the

CROSS WEAVING.
centres of the treddles are placed behind,

199
and the weaver

works upon the ends furthest from the centres, as in

every other case in weaving, where mechanical means
are necessary to increase the

power

exerted.

When
it

the mail net

is

mounted with the bead lams,

is

usual to employ three beams.

Upon
upon the

the

first

of

these, the

whip

is

rolled.

One

half of the gauze

half
third.

warp

upon the second, and the other

this

By

arrangement, the whip

may be
is

slackened independ-

ently of the other parts, and, at the same time, as the

gauze

is

crossed

when

the

whip

open,
that

it is it

found conyield to

venient to slacken one half a

the bead lams,

little,

may

when

pulled up to form the crossing.

In general, however, the bead lams are apt very soon

to decay

from

friction.

It is also

found

that,

when

slack,

they frequently get entangled with each other, and either

break the warp or obstruct the operation.

reasons, although
are generally

For these

more mounting

is

required, mail nets

wrought with two half

leaves, or
part,

bead lams,

and two standards for the gauze

gauze.
It

as in

common

seems only necessary to add, that weavers,

or working this species of net, ought
its

when mounting
it

always to keep in mind

consists of

general principle, namely, that

gauze and whip net, drawn through the reed

It,

alternately.

therefore, requires exactly

two gauze
to

mountings.

The gauze

part

must be corded

form the

cross shed, while the

whip forms the open.

The whole

gauze mounting, and the two back leaves of the whip $

are behind the reed.
in front,

The whip

standards and bead lams,

form the crossing of the whip, over and under

between the standards
plate
is

the gauze, and the gauze passes

and bead lams, Fig.

black.

1.

Plate 11,

where the

shaded

200
Of
to say

ESSAY
much.

IV.
it

the other species of nets,

will not be necessary

of the

The varieties are bead lams. One of these,

when

chiefly in the crossings

invented at Paisley, and

its

generally called the night thought^ probably from

having

occurred to the inventor

admired.

in bed, has

It is also distinguished, for

much what reason I am

been
any patent was

at a loss to account, for I cannot find that

ever granted for

it,

by the name of the

PATENT NET.

A representation of this
Its difference

net

is

given in Fig. 18. Plate 4.

chiefly, in the crossing

from the mail net

is,

of the bead lams, the leading

in, or

drawing of the warp,

Like the
it

and the application of two additional treddles.

mail net,
it

is

a combination of

gauze and whip;

leaves,

is

wrought with the same number of

leaves are disposed exactly in the

and these

same way.

The mail
and, at one

net

is

drawn

alternately

gauze and whip;

tread, the

whip

crosses the gauze; while, at the next, the

cross each other

two whip threads

of gauze.

between the two

splits

But, in the night thought, or patent net, half

of the whip crosses two splitfuls of gauze, while the

other half has no crossing whatever.

The two

halves

are crossed alternately, and this gives the appearance of

the net, as will be obvious by inspecting the Fig. Plate 4.

The draught

of the warp, cording of the treddles, and

crossing of the bead lams, are represented in the horizontal plan, Fig. 8. Plate
1 1
.

similar to the

common way

of exhibiting a draught and cording.

In this plan, the

whole crossing

is

represented by the bead lams, for the

in other kinds of
is

warp

is laid

weaving.

down perfectly direct, as The whip part of the warp

shaded darker

CROSS WEAVING.
than the gauze, to distinguish
to

201
other,

them from each

and

show the way

in

which both
bead lams
is

are led in, or drawn.

The under

shaft of the

supposed to be raised,

and the upper shaft sunk, so that the lams may be perfectly slack.

The lams

belonging to the upper shaft,

are represented

which cross above the warp,

lines to

by double
to

make

the crossings distinct.

Those belonging

the under shaft,

which

cross
in

below the warp,

are single

black lines.
will

The way

which these

lines are

drawn,

show

that the

upper lams cross

in front,

both of the

standards and under lams.

The
shown

connections of the heddles with the treddles, are

in the

same way

as before, the black

marks dethe white,

noting raising, or long march, connections;

sinking, or short march, connections;

and the mark X>

In the gauze part

stationary leaves, or no connection.

of

this, as in

the mail net, the back gauze leaves must be the gauze bead lams are raised to form the

sunk,

when

cross shed; but if the full

gauze mounting

is

used, they
Fig. 9.
is

remain stationary, as represented

in the plan.

a transverse elevation of the part before the reed, used

for the

patent net.
,are

The bead
to

lams, and part of the

standards,

drawn

show

the crossings as they appear

shafts are omitted, being

when viewed

in front.

The
in

exactly the same as those of the mail net.

The

threads

of warp, being

shown

section,

are represented

by

round dots; those of the gauze, white; and of the whip,

black.

In both of the Figs. 8. and 9. one set of the patis

tern is given; and this

to

be repeated until the whole

is

warp

is

drawn.

The

patent net

wrought

either

with

three, or four beams.

If the single bead

lam without
gauze

standards
part;
if

is

used,

two beams

are required for the

is

the full gauze mounting

adopted, only one

Cc

202
beam
its
is

ESSAY
necessary.

IV.

In both cases, two are requisite for

the whip, in order that each half should be slackened in

turn, for the alternate crossing.

As

in the

mail net y

it is

most common

to use the full

I shall give

mounting for the gauze.

the sheds of the patent

For practical use,

net, in the

same way

as the others.

SHEDS OF THE PATENT NET, OR NIGHT THOUGHT,

FIRST SHED, TREDDLE

1.

Under

lams, a; raised and slack.

sunk.

First standard, 1;

Second standard, 2; sunk.

Upper Gauze
First

lams, b; sunk and tight.

lams, k; sunk and slack.
leaf, 3 \ raised.
leaf,
4?*,

whip

Second whip

stationary.

First gauze leaf, 5; sunk.

Second gauze

leaf,

6; raised.

SECOND SHED, TREDDLE

2.

Under

lams, a; raised and slack.

First standard, 1; sunk.

Second standard, 2;

raised.

Upper Gauze
First

lams, b; sunk and slack. lams, k; raised and tight.

leaf, 3
leaf,
;

whip
gauze

raised.

Second whip
First

4j sunk.

leaf,

5 \ sunk.
sunk.

Second gauze

leaf, 6*,

The gauze

leaves, stationary,

with

full

mounting,

CROSS WEAVING.
THIRD SHED, TREDDLE
Under
lams, a; raised and tight.
3

203

First standard, 1; raised,

Second standard, 2;

raised.

Upper Gauze
First

lams, b; sunk and slack.

lams, k; sunk and slack.
leaf, 3;
leaf,

whip

stationary.

Second whip
First

4; sunk.

gauze

leaf,

5 \ sunk.
6; raised.

Second gauze

leaf,

FOURTH SHED, TREDDLE

Under
lams, a; raised and tight.
1
;

4.

First standard,

raised.

Second standard, 2; sunk.

Upper

lams,

b*,

sunk and

tight.

Gauze
First

lams, k; raised and tight.

leaf,

whip

3; stationary.

Second whip

leaf,

4; stationary.

First gauze leaf, 5; sunk.

Second gauze

leaf,

6; sunk.

The gauze
There
are

leaves, stationary^

with

full

mounting.

many

varieties of these nets,

but they depend

more upon

difference in treading, than any variation of

the general principle.

varieties,

To

give plates representing these

price of this

would enhance the

it

work too much

which
is

to render

susceptible of that circulation

my

chief object.

Some

descriptions of those varieties will be

given, as miscellaneous observations, before the conclusion

pf this Essay.

In the

mean

time,

we

proceed to give a

short description of a species of gauze, generally called

204

ESSAY

IV.

CATGUT.

To

those

who

are previously acquainted with the man-?

ner of weaving gauze, that of producing catgut will be a

very simple operation.
the same.

The

principle of both

is is

exactly

The
at

gauze, as already explained,

It is there

crossed

and twined

one treading.

kept fast by the

intersection of the weft;

and, at the next tread, by reis

turning to the open state, the twine

reversed, and the

warp again locked by the weft.

threads of

Consequently, the same

warp always

rise

and sink, being crossed and

little

open

alternately.

The

catgut carries the twine a

further; for, in this species of cross weaving, half a turn

more

is

produced than in the gauze.

The most

simple

way

of weaving catgut, will appear in Figs. 10. and 11.

Fig. 10. represents the open, and Fig. 11. the

Plate 11.

cross shed, as they appear

when

opened.

The whole
set of

mounting

consists of

two back

leaves,

and a

bead

lams, similar to those already described for the gauze

part of the mail and patent nets.

The open
At the next

shed

is

formed by the back

leaves, the lams yielding a turn

and

a half, as represented in Fig. 10.

cross shed
is

tread, the

formed by raising the lams, and leaving the

as in gauze, see Fig. 11,

back leaves stationary, or sunk,

Here the

threads,

and B,

rise

and sink

alternately, as

in direct weaving, but with the gauze crossing added to

the plain shed.

ciples of plain

Catgut, therefore, combines the prin-

and cross weaving.

In the finer kinds of

catgut,

it

is

found useful to work the lams through a

It will

standard, as represented by Fig. 12.

this figure,

appear by

where

the threads of

warp

are in section,
is

and

represented by dots, that the whole gauze cross

effected

by the lam; and the additional half turn

sinking the standard,

is

produced by

when

the lam

is

pulled tight.

CROSS WEAVING.
Having
principles

205
essential

stated

what appeared most

cross

of the
their
this

upon which

weaving depends, and

I

application to

common
few

practice,

shall

conclude

Essay, with a

MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
In the
net, as in every other species of fancy weaving,

a boundless variety

may be

introduced.
all

As

it

would be

impossible to enumerate and describe

shall only briefly

the varieties, I

mention a few which are in most com-

mon

use.

kind of fancy nets are very

common, which

are

figured

by omitting the crossing

in particular places,

and

which These

leaves a wider interval than in the other parts. are called,

by weavers,

DROPPED NETS.

To

effect this,

it

is-necessary to

mount

the loom with

additional back leaves,

JBy this apparatus,

and treddles for moving them.

the crossing of the

leaves,

warp which

is

drawn through any of these

shot, while the other parts of the

may be omitted for web are crossed like

a
a

common
the
will

net.

The way

in

which these omissions are

This
is

disposed, forms the pattern.

so very similar to

way

of disposing the leaves in spot weaving, which

it

form the subject of the next Essay, that

this place.

seems

unnecessary to go more into detail in

A
the

net, very simple in the

effect,

mounting, but which prois

duces a very pleasing

much

used, and

is

called

^06

ESSAY

IV.

SPIDER NET.

This

net

has

merely a

common gauze mounting

is

behind the reed, and the gauze

second interval.

drawn through every

is,

The whip

part

usually,

composed

of coarser yarn than the gauze.

It

passes through a

bead, to which two lams are attached.

These lams pass

shafts, so

through the reed, and are attached to separate

that each

may be

raised alternately.
is

By

these means,

the whip, or spidering,

alternately pulled to the right

and

left in a zig

zag direction, but the whip threads do

not cross each other.

lifted, it is

On

whatever side the whip

is

secured by the weft shot.

is

Another net

known by

the

name

of the

DOUBLE PARIS NET.

This
It is

net

is,

in

every respect, both of drawing and

cording, the same as the patent net, or night thought.

wrought

entirely

by the

first

and fourth treddles,

omitting the second and third.

There

is

also a species of nets called

BALLOON NETS.

These
cording
is

are also

mounted

like

the patent net.

The
gauze

so disposed,

that the crossing of the

may be continued
whip
part
is

regularly, while every crossing of the

twice repeated.

In this net, the gauze part

tight.

is slackened,

and the whip part kept always

By

these

means the gauze, being drawn

alternately to the

right and left, forms a waving, or serpentine appearance,

instead

of being

perfectly

straight.

There

are

many

varieties of these nets.

fcftOSS
It
is

WEAVING.
the
all

207

not easy to give practical instructions for the

of
nets;
for

weaving

knowledge and

dexterity-

necessary for this, like

other mechanical arts,

can

only be attained by assiduous practice.

Much
mounting

depends
nicely

upon having
tempered.
of

all

the

cords

of

the

This may be
knot

easily accomplished,

by means
It
is

the

snitch

formerly

described.

also

essential, that the

warp and the lams should be equally

If this
is

slackened at the alternate treadings.

case, the

not the

when slack, are very apt to be entangled, which produces much inconvenience and trouble. The
lams

way

of treading
It is

is

also material, especially in the cross

shed.

very important that the shed should be gradthe lay

is

ually opened, while

going back, and, after

throwing the shot, that the weft should be driven home

in the

same gradual way, while the treddle

is

relieved.

The

crossing of the warp, both before and behind the

reed, necessarily creates an obstruction in the

moving of

the lay,

which

exists in

no species of direct weaving.

In gauze mountings, where beads are not used, the

twine of the half leaves

is

made

of

silk.

This

is

proper,
friction.

both on account of strength, and to diminish the

In weaving catgut,
it is

common

to

add a treddle for

weaving the cloth plain,

as in gauze.

When

the bead

lams, without standards, are used, the open shed and

plain shed are

wrought

alternately,

by the two back leaves;

the bead lams, in both instances, being sunk and slack.

When
shed,
leaves,
slack.

the bead lam

as

is

used with a standard, the open

is

formerly

described,

formed by the back

one being raised, the other sunk, and the lams

The
is

cross

shed,

by

raising

both back leaves,

sinking the standard, and keeping the lams tight.

plain shed

The

formed, by reversing the

latter

motion, that

208
is

<

ESSAY

IV.

#
and sinking both back
In forming the

to say,

by

raising the standard,

still

leaves, the

lams being

kept tight.

plain shed in cross weaving, the weights suspended

from

the marches are relieved; but, as the back leaves remain

stationary, the half leaves, or bead lams, generally
tight

remain

by

their

own

weight.

If,

however, they have

easily

any tendency to slacken, they may be

secured,

by taking
leaf a,

a cord

from the short march of the under half

and from the long march of the upper half leaf b,

to the plain treddle.

ESSAY
ON THE

V.

WEAVING OF AND

SPOTS, BROCADES,

LAPPETS.

AVlNG now
to investigate the

finished

our

descriptions
use,

of

the

grounds, or fabrics, in

common

we

proceed

mode of adding

flowers,

and other

ornamental figures, to these grounds.

are, frequently,

These ornaments

interwoven either with plain, tweeled,

or gauze grounds j and form a very extensive branch of

fanciful weaving.

The most

simple of these figures, are the

COMMON

SPOTS.

The
and
is,

weaving of spots

is

effected

by additional

leaves

treddles, as in tweeling,

and the manner of mounting

in every respect, similar to that used for other kinds

of ornamental work.

The

apparatus consists of coupers,

long and short marches, and treddles, as represented in

Fig. 1. Plate 5. already frequently referred to.

For the

sake of reference, and to ascertain the exact range of the

pattern,
it is

customary in

this, as in

other branches of

210

ESSAY

V.

ornamental weaving, to draw the spots upon design

paper, each interval generally denoting one splitful, or

two threads of warp.

is

The

most' simple figure of a spot,

that represented in Fig. 1. Plate 12. being

what

is

called a

common

barley-corn spot, covering three

splits

splits,

with an interval of nine

between every

spot.

To

weave

this,

only three leaves would be required, namely,

two

for the ground,

and one for the

into the

spot*,

but, as one

row of
A, B,
same

spots

is

thrown

bosom

of the other, form-

ing a kind of diamond figure, four leaves are necessary.

1, 2,

represent a ground plan of the heddles, the

as

formerly described.

The
it

cross lines, I to 12,

show

a portion of the warp, as

passes through the heddles,

every two lines being joined, to denote that these pass

through the same interval in the reed.

The

black marks

on each

leaf of the heddles,

is

show

that the thread, to

which the mark

attached, passes through the eye of

the heddle in that leaf, and no other.

plan, the spot appears

Opposite to the

upon the design paper.

split,

The

left

hand thread between every

whole warp,
other half
is

forming one half of the

front leaf

is

drawn through the

and the

divided between the remaining three leaves,

as represented. will

From

this

way of

disposing the warp,

is

it

be obvious, that when the front leaf

raised,

and

the other three sunk, and these leaves reversed alternately,

plain cloth will be
1

produced.
all

When

the

third leaf,

alone

is

raised,
is

and

the rest sunk, the left hand

row of

spots

formed, by throwing across coarser weft,

shuttle.

by means of a separate
one half of three
splits
splits,

As

this leaf raises

only

while the whole of the next nine

of the
coarse weft
is

are sunk,

only the portion

passing under those threads which are raised,

inter-

woven

in the cloth, the

remainder passing loosely over

SPOT WEAVING.
the interval unto the next spot.

211
weaving
is

When the
when

completed, and the cloth taken out of the loom, these

loose intervals are clipped away,
as in the design.

the spots appear

in the

The back
it

leaf 2,

works exactly

same way; but

will appear, that the threads to

be

raised are exactly in the centre betwixt the former,

this places the alternate

and

rows of spots

in the

diamond

form.

The

leaf B,

contains the remaining portion of

lies

warp, to complete that part of the plain cloth which

in the interval

between the

spots.

The

portion of
is

warp
set

represented, consisting of twelve splits,

called

one

of the figure, and along the whole breadth of the

the

web

same

is

exactly repeated.
is

The

leaf

A, containing

half the warp,

generally called the ground leaf; B,

containing the

intervals,

the plain leaf; and the two

the design,
it

others, the spot leaves.

From
is

will appear,
I,

that the set of twelve splits

thus divided

2,

and

3,

form the
7,

left

hand spot;

4, 5,

and

6, the first interval;

8,

and

9, the right

hand spot; and 10, 11, and 12,

cross bars a, b, 1, 2, as usual,

the second interval.

The
all

show
is

a plan of the treddles.

Each of the four

four leaves.
are

treddles

connected with

the

The

squares

formed by the crossings,

marks,
raised;

distinguished

by black
is

when
or,

the leaf which forms that crossing

to

be

-in

other words, that leaf

is

to

be connected
as

with the treddle by the long

described.

marches,
at

formerly
is

Where
treddle

the

square
is

the

crossing

not

blackened, the connection

that

made by
the

the short marches,

the

may

sink

leaf.

To work

this
1 is

pattern, beginning with the left

raised,

hand

spots, the leaf

and one shot of the coarse spotting weft thrown

then,

across;
again,

two

shots of plain weft are interwoven;

one of spotting;

and so on,

until the

spot

is

212
sufficiently large.

ESSAY

V.

Six shots of plain are then wrought

to

form an

interval
after

by the weft, equal

to the three splits

to

in the

warp ;

which the

leaf

is

be raised, and
as the former.

the right hand spots formed in the same

way

Another

interval of plain is then

this principle, a

wrought, and so on.

Upon

boundless variety of figures

may
be

be formed upon cloth,

if a sufficient

number of
any

leaves

employed.
limits,

It

would very

far

exceed

moderate

to investigate the

whole range of patterns which

is
it

may be
rest

produced-, nor, indeed,

practicable.
all

The
the

general principle being studied and understood,

may be accomplished
spot described,
is

at the

fancy of the operator.

spot,

The

called a

common

and

is

the

most simple, because one

included in the ground

half of the

whole warp being

is

leaf,

the whole of the spotting

thrown upon the other

half.

But, in this case, the spots

will only appear to advantage

on one

side of the cloth,

and scarcely
cloth
is

at all

upon the

other.

The

texture of the

also inferior, as the spotting is not fully incor-

porated into the fabric.

For

this reason,

recourse has
spots,

been had to another mode of forming

appear
equally

which

on both

sides,

and which are much

former.

superior in

point of effect to the

These are

usually called

PAPER SPOTS.
These
spots

not

only

require

nearly

double the

mounting, or apparatus, on the loom, but are

much

more tedious
manufactured

in the process of weaving.

This increases

the expence so greatly, as to prevent

to,

them from being

although
large,

any

great

extent,

quantities have been

made

at different times.

SPOT WEAVING.
Fig. 2.
is

218

a plan of drawing, and cording a paper spot,

it

such as the pattern opposite to

upon the design paper*

spot pattern, standing
splits,

But

it

will also

work any other

upon the same, or a smaller number of

which the two
pattern stands
interval of
sides

and of

are similar to each other.

splits^

This

upon ten
splits

for each spot, with an

twenty

between those on the same row,

is

and, of course, one set of the pattern

thirty splits.

Like the former, and, indeed,

second row
course,
is is

like

most spot patterns, the

the
first ;

thrown

into the

bosom of
leaves.

and, of

wrought by additional

The mounting
of plain cloth,

of this spot consists of twenty-two leaves, of which the

leaves

and B,

are, for the intervals

between the
leaves.

spots,

and the remaining twenty, are spot

The

eleven leaves, from

to 10, contain

one

half of the warp, and those from

to 20, the other half.

Of

course,

when

these

two

sets of leaves are raised, or

is

sunk, alternately, plain cloth

produced.
1 1

The
to
1

leaves

from
back

to 5,

on the front
left

set,

and from

5,

on the
to

set,

work the

hand spot; and those from 6

10, and
is

from 16

to 20, the right

left

hand

spot.

The

cording
at the

represented at the

hand; the black squares,

crossings, denoting rising, or long

all

march connections, and

the figure

the others the reverse.

it

By examining

upon
it

the design paper,

will appear, that the

lower part of

contains ten splits by the warp, and five splits, or ten

spots,

by the weft; and

a
if

comparison of

this

with the

draught will show, that

the ten treddles on the left

hand
leaves

are pressed

down

in succession, they will raise the

so

as

to

produce a spot similar to the figure.

is

The second
first,

part of the spot

is

merely a repetition of the

the treddles 1, 2, 3,
in the

and the small spot

4.

made by

and

The

right

hand

treddles,

wrought

same

214

ESSAY

V.

way, produce the second

the
first.

spot, standing in the

bosom

of

In weaving paper spots, one shot of plain, and

one of spotting, are thrown in alternately.

spot, here

represented,

may be reduced
away

to
all

The paper a common

the leaves

spot of the same figure, by taking

from

to 10,

and drawing the warp contained in them

leaf.

through one ground

of twenty-two,
will

Twelve
sufficient.

leaves then, instead

If a solid

be

spot

is

wanted,

like the

lowest one in the figure, those crossings

dots,

marked by small black

must be changed from

sinking to raising connections.

Having thus shown a

paper spots, what other
illustration

specimen, both of

common and

examples may be necessary, for the further

of the nature of spot weaving, will be given as

spots.

common
is,

As above mentioned,
leaf,

the only difference

is

that

in the former, half of the

warp

drawn through the

ground

and the other half through the spot leaves

leaf;

and the plain

spot leaves
leaves.
is

while, in the latter, the

number of
plain,

doubled,

the intervals only being

ALLOVER SPOTS.
Fig.
3,

represents the figure and plan of an allover

spot, set

upon twenty

splits,

with a small round spot in

In
this,

the

bosom of each diamond.

the leaf

A,

as,

formerly, forms the ground containing half the warp

the leaf B, contains only a few plain heddles at each side

of the web, to form the selvage:

all

the

bosom of the

web
The

being covered with spotting, in the form represented

in the design,
splits

from which

it

is

called an allover pattern.

of warp, one to twenty, form one set of the

pattern; and, at the left side,

two

splits

of the next set s

SPOT WEAVING.
nineteen and twenty, are added, to
is

215
that the spotting
all

show

to

be continued

in sets exactly the

same

over the

web, without any

intervals of plain,

Any

allover spot pattern, not exceeding

twenty

splits,

and whose

sides

are

similar,

may

be wrought by this

mounting, only some variation in the cording, or in the

succession of treading,

may be

required.

To work

the

pattern represented, the spot treddles, from one to eleven,

are to be pressed in succession, and then

from eleven

back to one.
falsing cords,

The

black spots, denoting, as usual, the

in

which extend

the diagonal direction

from corner to corner of the treddle plan, form the dia-

mond, or
corners,

allover part of the pattern.

Those

at the other

form the round spoL

careful inspection of
If the last

the figure, will render this apparent.

men-

tioned raising cords are taken away, and sinking cords

substituted, the allover part will remain the same; but

there will be no spot in the bosom.

Or

a spot of any

other shape, within the range of the mounting,

substituted,

may be
all.

by adapting the

raising cords to

lift

the leaves

required.

Upon

principles the

same

as the above,

spot patterns

may be formed, where

the

two

sides of the
this is

figure are similar to each other; but,

where

not

the case, a different and

more extensive mounting be-

comes necessary.
Fig.
1.

Plate 13.

is

an example of
it

this.

The

spot

drawn upon the

design,

will evidently appear, does not

It

correspond in the two sides.

becomes, therefore,

necessary to allow a leaf of heddles for every thread contained in the range of the spot,

which

is

ten

splits.

The

other thread of the split

is,

as usual,

drawn through the

intervals,

ground leaf A; and the warp, to form the

through the plain leaf B.

The

remaining leaves are for

216
twenty-two leaves;

ESSAY

V."

the spot, ten being allowed for each, and forming, in

that
is,

ally

twenty for the two spots 5

and two for the plain work.

This mode of drawing,

is

equally well calculated for any figure, regular or irregular,

not exceeding ten splits; and the alteration, whether

is

the figure

solid like that represented, or hollow, will

depend

entirely

upon the cording, or way of forming the

connections.

careful and attentive consideration of the different

designs, and

modes of mounting them, which have

upon

beeii

given, will evince that figures

cloth in

may be wrought upon

the
are

immense
the spot

variety,
is

principles perfectly similar.

When

regular, or

when

two

sides of

it

are similar,

two threads, in every figure,

in working.

drawn through

the same leaf, because these threads are uniformly raised

at the

same time

But where the

it

figure

is

irregular, or

when no two

parts of

correspond, only
leaf,

one thread, in each, can be drawn through the same

because every thread must be raised independent of the

others.
first.

Figs. 1. 2. and 3. Plate 12. are examples of the

In Fig. 2. Plate 12.

it

will be obvious, that the

spot extending to ten splits, the fifth and sixth form the
centre; and that the

two

sides,

from

five to one,

and

from

six to ten, are exactly similar, diverging equally

from

the centre.
splits, for

Five leaves, therefore, are sufficient for ten

numbers

five

and

six pass

through one
in the

leaf,

numbers four and seven through one; and,

way, numbers three and
and numbers one and
eight,
ten, pass respectively
1.

same

numbers two and nine*

through the
is

same

leaves.

In Fig.

Plate 13. however, the case

different.

The two

sides of this flower are totally difit

ferent.

Like the former,

covers ten splits, and because

all

every thread

must be independent of

the

others*

SPOT WEAVING.
requires ten leaves.

217
spot,
is

The

particular

form of the

then ascertained by the manner of cording.

To
splits

fix

the plan of the cording,

it

is

only necessary to

number

the divisions on the design paper, which represent

of warp, and to place corresponding numbers also

to distinguish the leaves

and treddles;

as, for

example, in

Fig.

1;

Plate 13.

Let the warp

splits

on the design be
at

supposed to be numbered from one to ten, beginning

the right.

Let the spot leaves on the plan be

,ten,

also

num-

bered from one to

let

beginning

at the front,

and then

the spotting treddles be

numbered

in the

same way,
First, then,

beginning

at the centre, or plain treddles*

mark the black

work.

spots, or raising connections, for the plain

One

half of the

whole warp

is

drawn through
a, crosses

the front leaf A, and the other half through the remaining
leaves.

Therefore, where the plain treddle

raising

the

leaf

A, the

mark

is

placed; and where the other

plain treddle b, crosses each of the others, a similar

is

mark

also placed.

Then, when the

leaf

is

raised, all the

others will sink, and

rise.

when
spot.

is

sunk,

all

the others will

This will form the ground, or plain work.

left

Proceed

next to the

hand

The

first

threads to be raised
five,;

in this spot,

are

numbers four and

Two
five.

raising

marks, are, therefore, placed where the treddle number

one crosses the leaves numbers four and

The

second threads to be raised, are three and four; and the

marks are placed where the treddle number two crosses

the leaves numbers three and four.

In the same way,

it

proceed until the spot

often occurs, that a

is

finished, observing only that

lifts

number of

upon the same threads

because

may be
these
is

in the design,

and when a connection for raising

unnecessary to repeat
it,

once formed,

it is

pressing

down

the same treddle will produce the effect as

Ee

218
often as

ESSAY
maybe
required.
lift,

V.
1.

In Fig.
are
all

Plate 13. the tentn 9

eleventh, and twelfth

the same, and, therefore,

require only one treddle.

The

right

hand spot

is

merely

the left hand one reversed, and the

manner of placing
will always

the marks exactly the same.

When

the plan of cording

is

completed,

it

appear that the black, or raising marks, form exactly a

copy of the design, only that

instead of being

it

appears across the drawing,

as in the design.

from top to bottom

When
2.

the
3.

two

sides of the figure are similar, as in Figs,

and

Plate 12. the cording will represent only one

half of the design.

This appears very plainly in Fig.

3.

Plate 13. where the leaves and treddles are represented as

being placed close together, and the intervals omitted.

When
it

this has

become

familiar,

from study or

practice,
as
it

will be unnecessary to

draw plans of the cording,

can be taken equally well from the design.

BROCADES, OR FINGER SPOTS.

In the
spots, hitherto described, as the figure
shuttle,
is

formed
the

by coarser weft thrown across by a

yarn crossing the intervals
is

when
besides,

clipped away,

a certain
all

degree of roughness always appears,

and,

which

is

clipped

is

totally lost.

To remedy
are
called
is

these incon-

veniences, another

mode

of spotting has been practised,

brocades,

and goods of
finger spots.

this

description,

or

that of

The mounting common spots, but

of these

very similar to

the yarn, which forms the

fabric,
is

spotting, instead of being

thrown across the whole

consists of a separate thread for every flower,

which

generally interwoven
finger,

into

the fabric

by the hand, or
finger spots.

whence they

receive the

name of

SPOT WEAVING.
In mounting brocade looms,
it

219

is

not necessary that

there should be an additional set of spot leaves to place

the one flower in the

spotting
is

bosom of

the other; for, as the

is

interwoven by the hand, and as every spot

totally

formed by a thread

independent of

all

the others,

every second flower

may be

omitted in the fingering,

effect.

which

will exactly

produce the

specimen of the draught and cording of a finger

spot, will be

found in Fig.

2. Plate

13.

The draught
varied to any

comprehends every figure which does not exceed twenty

splits in

breadth, and the pattern

may be
is

figure

of that extent, by adapting the cording to the

figure required.

That upon the design

only seventeen

splits in breadth, and, of course, the interval is

twenty-

three

splits.

The
is

treddles

and cording are double, for

the purpose of reversing the flower, and every second

flower, only,
leaf b,
is

to be fingered in working.

The

plain

only for the selvage, as in the allover pattern,

Fig. 3. Plate 12.

In working brocades, one half of the fingering

is

generally performed by the weaver, and the other half

by

boy or

girl,

employed

for the purpose.

To

reduce

the expence, by rendering the labour of fingering unnecessary,

various plans have been devised.

is

In one, the

spotting

passed through the spot sheds, by a

number of
by

small shuttles, in a

way nearly
metal,

similar to the tape, or incle

is

loom.
circular

In another, the spotting

pieces

carried .through
brass,

of

generally

which are
circle cut

moved by
out.

a rack,

and have a segment of each

of plates, which
it

The number

has already been

found necessary to give, necessarily prevent us from

representing these kinds of apparatus, and without figures

220
it

ESSAY
difficult,
if

V.

would be

not impossible, to render any

sufficiently

description,

however minute,
be the

perspicuous.

The want

will

less regretted, that

brocades have

not been for some years manufactured to any consider-,

able extent.

In the specimen,
is

it

will appear that the

spotting of the brocade

spots, but flushed
erally the case,

not

woven

plain like the other

somewhat

like tweeling.

This

is

gen-

because the flushing renders the effect

more
to be

brilliant.

When

spotting patterns are too extensive

treddles, recourse
is

wrought with leaves and

had*

as in the

damask, and carpet weaving, to the

SPOT

DRAW LOOM.

The
little

principle

and construction of the draw loom, have

been so fully investigated in the third Essay, that very

remains to be added.

The

spot

draw loom, besides

working plain

the harness, consists of four leaves for

cloth,

two of which
weaving.
plain,

are raised and sunk alternately, as in

common
ness,

The

spotting

is

effected

by the har-

and the

by the leaves

in front.

The

heddles,

as in the other

draw looms, have long

eyes, to allow the

spotting to rise freely.

In the spot harness, mails are not

used, but merely eyes like those of heddles.

Various

contrivances, for raising the harness, and superseding the

necessity of employing a
this

draw boy, have been adopted

in

mounting.

Of

these, the principal are the barrel,

and saw.

Neither of them have been brought to such

perfection as to save

much

labour, and, indeed, the spot

draw loom

is,

in general, very little used.

is

The

reading

on of the design,

exactly the same as in damask, the

spot part being corded, and the plain omitted.

Only

one,

SPOT WEAVING.
thread passes through

221
The common, or
as in

each eye of the harness.

draw loom may be mounted, either for

paper spots.

The

principle, being the

same

mount-

ing with leaves, does not require to be repeated.

The
from

next species of ornamental weaving, and which,

cheapness,
is

its

very extensively used,

is

the

LAPPET.

The
which

lappet
is

is

a species of Hushing done with whip,

generally considerably coarser than the yarn

fabric of the

which forms the

the

web.

In most instances,
together.
It is

whip

consists of

two threads twined

not interwoven with the fabric, but crossing over a certain

is

number of

splits

of warp, rises through the shed, and

it.

tacked to the cloth by the weft shot passing under

Until within these few years, lappets were generally

wrought by bead lams, without standards, passing through

the reed, and raised by shafts above.
these shafts

When

either of

was

raised,

the whip, traversing over the

lifted

under surface of the cloth, was

through the shed,

simple,

and intersected by the weft.

But, a

much more

and

sufficiently accurate apparatus, has lately

been brought

into practice,

and has completely superseded the bead

lams.
into

This consists of a shaft of well seasoned wood,

a

which

number

of lappet needles, as they are called,

are driven at equal lengths.

The
is
is

lappet needle
is

is

formed

pf a piece of brass wire, one end of which

flattened
it

by
to

hammering.

small hole

then drilled through

receive the whip.

The
is

hole

countersunk on each side,

and the needle being polished and pointed, the other end,
after

being sharpened,

driven into the shaft.

This shaft

222
is

ESSAY

V.

suspended under the warp, the points of the needles

It
is

being up.

susceptible of

two motions, the

first,

from

right to left,

and vice versa, produces the traversing

cloth, to

of the whip

upon the under surface of the

form

the pattern.

The second
it

is

a vertical motion,

by which

the needles rise through the shed, and raise the

whip

above the shuttle that

may be

intersected by the weft.

lay, for

This motion
the lay
is
is

is

communicated by the

whenever

pushed back to form the shed, the lappet frame

pulled up, and

when

the lay

is

brought to the

fell,
its

to

strike

home

the weft, the frame again sinks by

a greater variety of pattern
is

own
the

weight.

When
called a

wanted,

more frames
fabric
is

are used.

When

two

are employed,

DOUBLE FEAME LAPPET,

This apparatus
which move
the pattern
in

consists

of two frames of needles,

an opposite direction to each other, when

for,

is

forming;

while one goes to the

left,

the

other comes to the right, and the contrary.

the frames are only

Sometimes,
or to

made

to approach each other,

meet, and, sometimes, they cross each other and return.

When

the pattern

is

uniform, that

is

to say,

when

the

same number of

splits
is

are to be crossed, the horizontal,

left

or pattern motion,

communicated by the weaver's

hand, and the length of the traverse, regulated by a rack

and spring, fixed upon the upper

shell of the lay.

But,

when

it is

necessary that the length of the traverse should

figure, a

vary, to

form any particular flower or

is

wheel of

a particular construction
in this

used, and the goods fabricated

way

are called

SPOT WEAVING.
WHEEL
LAPPETS.
is

223

The

construction of these wheels

very ingenious,

although very simple.

In no part of this work, have I

that,

had more occasion to regret,

ings,
it

without additional drawto elucidate

will not be in

my power

my

descrip-

tions so perfectly as I wish, than in the present instance.

But, after mature consideration,

have thought

it

of

less

disadvantage to forfeit, at least for the present, the ample

details

which

it

would be necessary

to give

upon

this

and

many

other branches of the art of weaving, than to create

this

an expence upon

work, which might preclude many

of the operative part of the community, from the

means

of access even to those parts, which have been pretty

fully discussed.

The wheels
of the loom.

are

made of wood, and placed

at

one side

The circumference is formed like a ratchet wheel, having as many teeth as there are shots of weft in the pattern, and one tooth is moved between every shot, the wheel revolving in centres. To lay down the pattern,
upon
a

wheel of

this kind,

from design paper, the follow-

ing instructions are necessary, which, indeed, bear a strong

analogy to the

way

of reading on a pattern for the draw

loom.

The

pattern being drawn, the

number of squares
two flowers

from the bottom to the top, gives the number of teeth,

whether the wheel
is

to

work one
line

flower,

bosomed, or an allover pattern.

the
flat

The

teeth being cut,

side of the

wheel has a

drawn from the cen-

tre, to

every division between the teeth.

number of
number

concentric circles are then described, equal to the

of squares from right to left

upon the design paper.

By

marking these,
breadth, a rule

as the pattern increases

is

or diminishes in
in the flat

found for forming a groove

22'i

ESSAY

V.-

side of the wheel, to regulate the traverse, or shift of the

lappet frame, at every shot.

An

iron pin

is

fixed in the

frame, which works in this groove, and the frame being,

as formerly, traversed

by the weaver's hand, the two

sides

of the groove stop the frame at the places proper to form

the pattern required.

The

diameter of the pin must be

in cutting this groove.

added to the range of the pattern,

mode

of spotting, by the application of a wheel of this

kind, has been lately introduced,

which supersedes the

use of spot leaves, and

is

called

PRESSED SPOTTING.

The

looms of

this description,

which

have seen,
but,
to
it
is*,

produce a spot upon a tweeled ground;

evidently,

equally

applicable
is

to

plain,

as

tweeled

weaving.

The

fabric

of cotton,

and the spotting

coloured in imitation of the Norwich shawls.

has merely a plain tweel mounting.
shafts,

The loom
frames, or
a double

Two

are

suspended below the warp,

like

frame lappet.

Instead of lappet needles, these frames

flat

have pressers of brass, them.

on the upper edge, driven into

raised, force

These

pressers,
is

when
is

up

that portion
spots>

of warp which

to

form the
to

interval

between the

while that part which

the pressers,
is

be interwoven, being between

not forced, and leaves the shed open to

receive the spotting.

As

the pressers recede, or advance

is

to each other, the breadth of the flower

increased or

diminished.
treddle,

The

pressers are raised

by an additional

placed close to each of the working treddles;

called tongues y

These treddles are

and are about

six inches

shorter than the other treddles, so that the weaver,

shifting his foot, can either press

by

down

the tongue along

SPOT WEAVING.
impressed, to form the interval.

225

with the treddle, to form the spot, or leave the tongue

In this case, the centres

of the treddles and tongues are behind, and the weaver

works upon the ends of them.

The same

apparatus

is

used for lappets, where there are intervals.

presser frames
is

One

of the

wrought by each

side of the groove in

the wheel, and these sides are cut to form the pattern.

This apparatus
for fabrics

is

simple, and seems very well adapted

is

where the warp

sufficiently strong to bear

the pressing, and where the spots are broad; but,

the

when
warp
For,

warp

is

weak, and the spot terminates in a sharp

point, requiring, perhaps, only a single splitful of

to be open,
it

will be better to

work with

leaves.

the pressed
rest*,

warp must be always more

strained than the

and

it

may

frequently happen, that the presser

to

may

pass a thread

which ought

be pressed, and render the

is

spot irregular where

much

accuracy

required.

The
was

principle of the wheel, carried a

good deal further,

that

which

adopted to form the patterns of the

Patent Tambouring Machinery ; and the very ingenious

machinery, exhibited by Monsieur Maillardet,

at

Spring

Gardens,

is,

in general,

merely a combination of wheels

upon the same

principle as that

which forms the

lappet.

Some

further account of the construction of wheels of

this kind, will

be given in describing the mode of weaving

by power.

When
being

spots are

formed upon

nets,

they are only

interwoven with the gauze part, the whip, or net part,

left perfectly free.
it

In the Essay upon cross weaving,

ought to have

been

stated, that the selvages of nets, are

it

wrought

plain.

I think
it

better to mention this here, than not to notice

at all,

Indeed,

it is

not

much out

of place, for, as has

Ff

226
woven

ESSAY
same way.

V.

been already observed, the selvages of allover spots, are

in the

In

common

spots
is

of this deincluded in

scription, half of the

warp of the

selvages

the ground
13.

leaf,

as in Fig; 3. Plate 12. and Fig. 2. Plate

sel-

In those paper spots, which are allovers, the

vages only are on the two plain leaves, as in the intervals

Fig. 2. Plate 12.

The

case

is

the same in net weaving.

at

Two

plain leaves,

which only contain a few heddles

added

either side for the selvages, are

to each of the
are,

mountings,

shown

in

Plate

11.

They

generally,

placed behind the net leaves, and are corded to the treddles

by the same means used

in other fancy

weaving, namely,

coupers, long and short marches, so as always to produce

plain cloth.

ESSAY
ON TKE

VI.

;CONOMY OF WEAVING, SIMPLIFICATION, OR OMISSION OF PROCESSES, DIVISION OF LABOUR, AND APPLICATION OF POWER.

the preceding Essays, we have endeavoured to INinvestigate the common manual processes, most frefive

quently used in the art of weaving, and gone as

into detail

much
and

upon the various branches,

as the plan

limits of this

work would admit.

first

As

already noticed in

the introduction to the

part of the work, the

know-

ledge

of weaving

all

the varieties of cloth, has been

imported, and, although undoubtedly,

many important

improvements have been made, both in the construction of

the looms, and

economy of the manufactures, nothing

been invented in the business.

entirely original has

The

woollen trade, introduced by Edward the third, was the

original
staple of

England;

and, although considerable

quantities both of linen and silken goods, have long

been

manufactured

in

that country,

they have been by no

means nearly equal

in value to the

woollen goods.

The

228

ESSAY

VI.

cotton manufacture, which has been

much more

recently

introduced, has rapidly arrived at an amazing extent and

improvement.

Still,

however, in so far

as the greatest

branch of the cloth trade, and the raw material of which

is

chiefly the
staple, the

growth of the country, may be considered

as

its

woollen remains in the same comparative

situation as formerly.

The manufacture

of linens has

been long the staple trade of Ireland, and, previous to the

introduction of the cotton manufacture,

many

attempts

were made for

its

extension and improvement in Scotland.

An anonymous

"
6i

publication

was printed

at

Edinburgh, in

the year 1733, entitled, "

sidered, with regard to

The
its

Interest of Scotland conin

police,
its

employing the

poor,

its

Agriculture,

its

Trade,

Manufactures, and

Fisheries."

As no name appears in the title, I have not been able to ascertain who was the author of this work. But, it is evidently the production of a man of talent and education. The sentiments contained in it, are liberal and benevolent, and, when a reasonable allowance is made for the, prevalent opinions of the age in

which
merit.

it

was written,

it

ap-

pears a

work of uncommon

Many

of the author's

opinions, indeed, have been either exploded, or at least

rendered very doubtful, by the experience, which the

prosecution of a more extended trade, since the period at

which he wrote, has produced; and, by the

satisfactory reasonings of Dr.

able

and

Adam

Smith, and other

modern economists.

In general, he reasons very justly on

the state of the manufactures at the time, and gives

hints for their extension and improvement,

many

some of which

appear to be very judicious, and others have been proved,

by experience, to be

fallacious.

He

admits, that the in-

dustry of the inhabitants, properly directed and exerted^

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
is

229

the solid and efficient cause

which produces national

wealth and prosperity; and strenuously contends, that a

fair

and

liberal

commercial intercourse between nations,

desirable to each other,

which produce commodities

must

be more advantageous to both, than the vain attempt to

monopolize the manufacture of every

ternal
all

article,

used for in-

consumption, to the exclusion or supersession of

traffic.

foreign

Upon

this

principle,

which seems

perfectly just, he censures a

number of

injudicious expe-

riments, which had been

made

to establish

manufactures

of

silk,

woollen, gloves, earthen ware, and

many

other

articles,

by subscriptions, resolutions against using

articles

manufactured out of Scotland, bounties, and other expedients of a similar nature.

lost in these

He

alleges that the capital

speculations,
if

all

of which proved abortive,

would have been,

ficient to

judiciously applied,

more than

suf-

establish

and promote a

staple

manufacture,

congenial to the situation of the country and habits of the

people, and sufficiently extensive to exchange for other
articles, better

and more cheaply manufactured

flax,

in other

countries.

This staple he assumes to be and

soil

but seems

to admit that the climate

of Scotland, are not the

most favourable

for

its

culture,

and that the management,

inferior to that of

in every stage of the process,

was much

the

Dutch and Flemish

American

artizans.
shall

To remedy

the

first,

he proposes, that bounties

in the

be given for raising

flax

colonies,

which have

since been severed

from

this country,

most probably for

artists

ever.

For the next,

he wishes, that foreign

should be invited, by pre-

miums,

to settle in this country, for the

purpose of in-

structing the inhabitants.

He

then proposes his plans for

inciting the people to industry, the prevention of theft

and

pegging, and encouragement of manufactures.

280

ESSAY

VI.
to
effect
it

The machinery, by which he means

objects,

these

seems very complicated.

that a

Indeed,
seen
so

appears

singular,

person

who had

clearly the

inefficiency of the projects

which he reprobates, should

staple

immediately propose regulations nearly similar, for the

improvement of what he considers the

ture.

manufac-

He

conceives the erection of work-houses in every

all

parish, the compulsory confinement of

in these places,

idle persons

and the flogging them

until they

become

good and industrious weavers,

to be expedients admirably

calculated to promote industry and emulation.

He

also

proposes the establishment of hospitals for the reception

of orphan and destitute children, where, they

the

at a

proper age,

may be taught to weave and spin. He considers only way of saving the weavers from idleness and
fall,

other vices, into which young and unexperienced persons

are apt to
will be to confine

them

to the hospital,

until they arrive at twenty-five years of age,

says, they

when, he

may

enter the world without danger.

He

considers that the manufacture might be greatly

at least

promoted by Acts of Parliament, requiring

seven

years apprenticeship before any person should be allowed

to

weave upon

his

own

account; security found by him

for his

performance of every piece of work in the best

liable to the constant inspection

manner; the trade made

of overseers; these overseers amenable to the magistrates

of the royal boroughs, and justices of the peace; and those

magistrates directed to enforce, with the utmost rigoury
severe penalties for every defect in the cloth, or malversation in the weaver.
entirely

In short, the trade

is

to be

thrown

under the controul of justices and magistrates,

and the whole funds for his hospitals and bridewells,

raised

by collections

at

church doors, and voluntary

contributions.

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
The work appeared soon

231

after the formation of the

Board of Trustees for Manufactures and Fisheries, and

the author appears, either to have been a

member of

that
all

board at the time, or, at

their minutes.

least,

to have

had access to

As

have only met with a single copy

it

of the book, and, therefore, suppose that

generally

cannot be

known, and

as the preface contains

an account

of the prevalent opinions, respecting the state of

manu-

factures and trade in Scotland at that period, and of the

means by which
insert
it

their

improvement was expected,

I shall

entire.

THE PREFACE.

Many

and just Complaints have been made of our

f
<

Poverty,

and the Decay of our Trader and of the

Decrease of our People for want of Business to imploy

and subsist them.

great

This

is

imputed, and justly, to the

Use

of foreign Manufactures for wearing Apparel,

sV.

* c

Furniture,
are partly

whereby the poor of other Countries

at

imployed

our Expence.

The manufactured
in

Goods we export bear no Proportion

Value

to those

P c

we
to

bring in;

we must

therefore send out our Product

purchase Clothing for the Rich, while the Poor must

either starve at

home, or go abroad

to seek their Bread,

where
*

it is

to be earned

by Labour and Industry.

Many Schemes
entred
:

have been framed to cure these Evils,

of Gentlemen have, at different
to

but in vain.
I
4

Numbers
into

Times,

Resolutions,

use

no foreign

Manufactures

But these could have no

of our

Effect, because
to serve them-,

we had no Manufactures
1
'

own

nor indeed can any Nation, where the Poor are imployed
in

Manufacture, serve

itself

with every Thing.

It is

232
*

ESSAY
to

VI.
sells to

enough

have one Staple which

Advantage
it

in

foreign Parts, and to be capable to export

in

such

Quantities, as

may be
to hurt

equal in Value to

all

the foreign
this

Goods we consume
Kind would be
too

at

home.

An

Attempt of

and ruine our Staple.

Where
them

many
is

Irons are in the Fire at once, some of

must

cool,

and where the Staple-manufacture of a

Country

neglected, and no other Branches of Business

brought to Perfection, the whole will run a Risk of

being
their
lost;

for

Mankind, generally speaking, prefer

and
on to buy the Manufactures of

own

private Interest to that of the Publick,

will hardly be prevailed

their

own Country,

if

foreign

Goods of the same Kind,

and of the same, or of a better Quality, are to be purchased at a lower Rate.

finds his

Every one buys where he

cheapest; and unless
their Kinds,

Commodity

best and
are as

our
as

own Manufactures
low
in their

good of

and

Prices as the same

sell either

Goods of other
at

Nations are, they will not

abroad or

home.

Trade cannot be forced,

improven.
6

but Manufacture

may be
Manuout of

Linen Cloth

is

our Staple-commodity, and a

facture

we
a

have been possest of

now Time

Mind:
in

It is carried

on by private Hands, the only

it

Way
is

which

Manufacture can thrive or prosper;

universal

Commodity of

Use

at

home, and of great

Demand
foreign

at those

Markets abroad, where

divers Kinds,

we

purchase

Goods of

which we neither can

our spare
it

want, nor can

it is

we make them
it

our selves without Loss;

all

Manufacture capable of employing

fully

Hands, and, was

be
sufficient

improven and extended,

all

would

to answer our

Demands

for foreign

Commodities.

But

it

has been miserably neglected and

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
<
*

238

discouraged;

it

has suffered from

many Causes, and

and
fruitless

from

none more,
that

than

the

indiscreet
to

Attempts

have been

made

introduce

Other

Manufactures, which are already brought to Perfection,

and carried on with

Nations,

all

possible Advantages

by other
to

and by these inconsiderate Resolutions

furnish our selves with every Thing, without the

Aid

of foreign Trade.
*

Had

all

the

Money

that has

been sunk and

lost

by

publick and private Companies, and private Persons,

upon these Projects, been imployed

in the

Improvement

we have so long complained of, had been long ere now cured and prevented-, but our Thoughts were, from Time to Time, turned upon new Projects, which we pusht up
and Extension of the Linen Trade, those Evils
Hill with great Eagerness, until they
for us, while our

became too heavy

Linen Trade, which we could have

intirely neglected.

carried

on with Profit and Success, was

Ever since the Beginning of the Confusions in the Reign

of King CJmrles
I. it

has been upon the Decay, and our

fine

Manufactures of Silk Goods,

several others of less
at a great

broad Cloths, and

Moment, which were introduced

Expence, and too long carried on with Loss

to the Nation, have nevertheless, in a great Measure,

totally failed.

We have
Generation

been long sensible of

this,

and

the

present

saw the Linen-manufacture

reduced to a very low Ebb, but saw an evident Possibility of retrieving

it,

if

we

bent

all

our Thoughts that

Way.

This

was

our

Condition

when

the

Royal

Boroughs,

who

are the Guardians of our Trade, took

under their

serious

Consideration the

State

of

our

Trade and Manufactures

in their general annual

Con-

vention held at Edinburgh in July y in the Year 1725.

Gg

234
6

ESSAY
in

VI.
of their

and

several

subsequent Meetings,

grand

annual Committee in that Year.

i

The

Society for the Improvement of Agriculture,

<
(

and several private Persons, who understood Trade and

Manufactures of different Sorts, gave
in Proposals

and

Schemes,

for

the

retrieving

our

Manufactures

and

Fisheries, to these

Meetings j and Committees of that

<

Society, and other Gentlemen, from several Parts of

the Country, likewise attended and assisted at these

Meetings:

The Result

of

all

which, was, that in their

172- they unani-

*
c

Meeting the Seventeenth of February

mously resolved

to address his Majesty,

and to make a

proper Application, by their Representatives in Parlia-

ment, and other Persons of Distinction then

at London,

*
f

who were
Monies

capable to serve their Country, to have the

(settled

by

Law

for

the encouraging of our

Manufactures) effectually applied for that Purpose, in

* c

such a Manner, as that

all

Misapplication of them

might be absolutely prevented; and the Royal Boroughs

appointed one of their
their
c

Number
this

to repair to London, at

Expence, to make
effect

Application effectual.

The

of this was, that his late Majesty

was

graciously pleased to write the following Letter to the

Royal Boroughs, which was presented

to the

Convention

'

by

his Majesty's

Advocate, one of their Number, upon

the Sixth of July 1726.

Superscribed George R.

u Trusty and well beloved,

*

We

greet

you

well.

"We

having observed,

that

the

several

Sums

of

Money
by

"

**

reserved and provided by the Treaty of Union, and

divers

Acts of Parliament, to be imployed for the

in Scotland,,

Improvement of Fisheries and Manufactures

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
have
4t
it

235

not hitherto been applied to the Uses for which

they were intended principally, because no particular

Plan or Method hath been concerted, directing the

ft

Manner

in

which those Sums should be applied

for the

"
i(

said Purposes.

And
it

being desirous to remove that

u Hindrance,
good
to

as speedily as

may

be,

We

have thought
first

recommend

to you, that, at

your

general

" Meeting in the Month of July next, you do take into your Consideration the State of the said Fisheries and " Manufactures, and of the Monies provided for encour" aging the same, and
(C

that,

by yourselves, or by Comdevise and propose

mittees of your

Number, you do

iC

the particular Methods, Rules and Regulations, which

to

"

you

shall

seem the most proper,

for the Application

"
*c

of the said

Sums towards

the encouraging and pro-

moting Fisheries, and such other Manufactures and

in Scot/and, as shall

" Improvements

most conduce to the

" general Good of the united Kingdom; and that you

" do return to Us the Propositions in which you shall " have agreed, to the end, that, upon due Consideration
"
thereof, a certain

Method may be

settled for the Appli-

" cation and Management of those Sums for the future. " The Welfare of our loving People of Scot/and, and the
" Prosperity of the Royal Boroughs, is so much concerned " in what We recommend to you, that We doubt not u you will go on in the Execution of what is expected

" from you, with the utmost Diligence, Unanimity, and & Impartiality: And, on Our Part, We assure you of Our
i(

Countenance and Encouragement

in

what you

shall

" propose for the real Good of your Country, consistent " with the general Interest of Our united Kingdom. " And so We bid you heartily farewel. Given at our
" Court of Kensington the seventh Day of June 1726.
in

236

ESSAY

VI.

the twelfth Year of Our Reign. Counter-signed by " his Majesty's Command. Holies Newcastle."
*

The same Day that

this

Letter was read, the Conven-

tion prepared and

agreed upon an Answer, wherein

they exprest their great Joy and Gratitude to his Majesty,

for his tender

Concern

for the "Welfare of this Country,

and for that particular Instance of his great Goodness

towards them, which must
fill

the Hearts of

all

his

loyal Subjects in this Part of Britain,

and promised^

with great Cheerfulness, to prepare without Loss of

Time, by themselves and Committees of

their

Number,

Propositions to be laid before his Majesty? for answering

the Ends of his Majesty's most gracious Intentions.

"

Upon

the Eighth of July a large Committee

was

" appointed to consider and devise such Methods as might

" most effectually answer his Majesty's most gracious " Intention of encouraging the Trade of Fishing, and

" other Manufactures of

Ci

this Part of the united

Kingdom,
relative

and

impowered them

to

receive

Proposals

" thereto, from any particular Royal Borough, or any " other Society, or private Persons, tefcV
"

On

the Twelfth of July particular Instructions

were

" drawn up for this Committee, who were to sit after " the rising of the Convention, and were appointed to " have their Plan in readiness to be laid before the next
."

Convention, which was then appointed to meet at

the
first

" Edinburgh upon

Wednesday of November

fol-

" lowing. This Committee was Advice and Assistance of, and
(t

directed to take the

to

consult with

all

Persons

who had

Skill

and Experience, in any of the

" Branches of Trade or Manufacture that might be pro" pos'd to be improven, and were specially directed in
their

Plan to propose a Method for the Application of

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
*<

237
the

the whole

Monies

that

might annually

arise for

l.

Purposes intended by his Majesty, in such Manner,

as

"

the Distribution might be diffusive,

and secured
it

"

effectually against Misapplication; and, as

might not

" be charged with the ordinary Expence of Management, " it being the Intention of the Convention, from their

"

earnest

Desire

to

promote the publick Good,

and

" "
"

thereby, to the utmost of their Power, to second his

Majesty's gracious Intentions, voluntarily to propose,

that they should defray the ordinary expence of

Manand

" agement."

This Committee met very often to receive

in,

'
c

consider Proposals that were sent

them from
Meetings,

different

Places of the Country, upon the Subject-matters com-

mitted to them,

and,
in

at

all

those

several

Gentlemen,

skilled

Trade and Manufactures, who

and upon the Eighth of

\i

were net Members,

assisted,

November 1726. they presented to the general Convention

a particular

'

Plan for the Distribution and Application

of the several Funds destined by

Law

for the

Improve-

ment of

Fisheries and Manufactures, to be laid before

<

his Majesty,

which, after due Consideration, and some

f
c

Amendments made, was approven of by the Convention. The Sum of this Plan is ingrost in his present
Majesty's Letters Patents, bearing Date at St. James's

July 5. and passed the Seals July 18. 1727. which are
printed.
f

The Convention,

at the

same Time, appointed

their

annual Committee to prepare the Heads of an Act of

Parliament for regulating the Linen-manufacture ; and
the annual Committee did, the same Day, pursuant to
the

<

'

Powers and Instructions given them by the Contake

vention,

under their Consideration,

(i

That the

238
" much depended on
t(

ESSAY

VI.

future Happiness and "Welfare of their Country, very

the Success of their Proposals, and

that

it

was
to

their

Duty
their

to

do every Thing in their

a Power

make

the same effectual, and did authorize

" and impower one of

Number

to repair to

London
of
in

" upon their Expence, and there, in Name and Behalf " the Royal Boroughs, to lay before his Majesty,

" obedience to his most gracious Letter, the general and " particular Plans agreed upon by the Convention, for

" promoting
"
this

the

Fisheries

and other Manufactures of

Part of the united Kingdom, and Distribution of

to the particular Purposes therein mentioned,

" the Funds

" and
li

to

endeavour to obtain such Acts of Parliament as

effectual for

might be most

promoting, encouraging,
to the

u and regulating the Linen-trade, agreeable

Heads
which
this

" then approven by the

said

Committee."

All which
itself,

are contained in the said

Act of Parliament

was

past that

same Session of Parliament; and

itself,

Act was printed by

of
*

and several Thousand Copies

it

were dispersed.

In consequence of this Application from the Royal

Boroughs, another Act of Parliament was past that

same Session, directing the Appropriation of

all

the
till

Funds formerly provided by Parliament (which which thev were designed.

enumerated
in the

<

then had never been applied) to the several Purposes

for

These Funds are

and are particu-

severally
larly

Act

itself,

resumed

in his Majesty's Letters Patents, wherein,

pursuant to the Powers vested in the

Crown by

the said

Act, the several Uses and Purposes to which they are

to

be applied, are specially directed, and, agreeable to

the Act,
therein

Twenty-one Commissioners and Trustees

are

named and appointed, and

the several Matters

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
*

239

committed
directed:

to their Trust, are therein likewise specially

And

shall

here beg

Leave

to

refer

the

Reader, for his better Information, to the Patent

itself,

which was printed by Order of the Trustees.

4

These Commissioners and Trustees, pursuant

first

to the
in

Directions of the Charter, held their

the

Meeting

Borough
11*2*1.

Room

at

Edinburgh upon the Twentieth of

July

and then proceeded to lay down proper Rules

for their

and Methods
to

own Procedure, and directed Books

In concert with the
a well-qualified

be prepared for that Purpose.

Royal Boroughs they made Choice of

Gentleman

to

be their Secretary, whose Conduct ever

since has very

much

justified their Choice.

His SufE-

ciency. Diligence,

Accuracy and Exactness, and singular

committed

<
4

Fidelity in the Discharge of this great Trust

to
4

him, have given universal Satisfaction.

The

Trustees, in obedience to the Directions given

their Charter, applied

them by
first

themseves directly to the

Part of their

Work,

namely, to prepare and

form

a particular Plan of Distribution of the

Funds, upon

the several Conditions therein specially set forth.

This

Plan was finished, printed, and publish' d the seventeenth

of November 1121. to which I also beg Leave to refer
the
4

Reader

for a full Information.

The Rules and

Regulations, appointed, by the Act of

Parliament, to be observed in the Linen-manufacture,

took Place' the First of November in the same Year 1727.

Since this Period,

we

have happily turned our Eyes

is

upon the Improvement of our Manufactures, which

now a common Subject

not a
little

in Discourse,

and

this contributes

to

its

Success.

People thereby pick up

Knowledge and Information, by Degrees, of our Faults

and Defects
in the

Management of our Manufactures,

to cure

and of the proper

Ways

and amend them.

240

JSSSAY

VL
Time and Attendance

The

Trustees bestow their

upon the Service of the Publick without Fee or Reward.

And

I observe,

from

their

Minutes, that their Meetings

It
is

are regular and frequent.

Sederunt, that their Service

appears almost from every

of great

Use and ImportFisheries and

ance to the Country, and contributes greatly to advance

the

Improvement and Extension of our

Manufactures of every Kind.

for the

Many

missive Letters,

Solution of Doubts and Questions, Petitions

and Applications for Encouragements of various Kinds,

upon

different Branches,

&c. Memorials and Complaints

of Abuses, Defects, slovenly and unprofitable Practices

in the

Management

of

many

Parts of the Manufacture,

and Proposals of Improvements, and of the most frugal and expeditious Methods of carrying on several Branches
to the best

*
*

Advantage, are frequently sent to the Secre-

tary

from every Corner of the Country.

their

And

I observe,

from

Minutes, that

all

these

are

always duly
Satisfac-

weighed and considered by the Trustees, and

tion,

by regular Answers, given

to the Persons

who

send them.
this
4

The good

Effects of a Correspondence of

Kind

are obvious.

might here enter into a particular Detail of the

whole Proceedings of the Trustees, from the Com-

mencement of
that

their Trust, to this

Time, were
this

it

not

such an Account would swell

Preface to a

greater

Length than the Discourse

itself \

and that their

whole Conduct,

in the Distribution

and Application of
is

the Funds, under their Care, in each Year,

summed
pursuant

up

in their annual

Report

to the King-,

and

that,

to the Directions of his Majesty's Charter, a Duplicate

or true
thirty

Copy

of this Report

is

annually given

in,

within

Days

after Christmas, to the annual

Committee of

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
e

241

the Royal Boroughs, and

is

by them

laid before the

it lies

general Convention in July thereafter,

where

upon

the Table during the Sitting of the Convention, to be

perused by
all

all

the

Members

and that these Reports are

in the

Hands of

the Clerks to the Royal Boroughs,

to see

< *

where any Person may have Access

Person

them; any

may

likewise have Access to the Minutes of

at

*
<

Procedure of the Trustees,

of their Secretary.
c

any Time,

in the

Hands

Persons of

all

Ranks

express, on

many

Occasions,

generous Concern for the publick Good, and an honest

Curiosity to be particularly informed of the State and

<

Progress of our Manufactures, since they have become

the Objects of the Care and Concern of the Publick;

P.

what

Effects the

Observations of the Regulations of

the Linen

Act of Parliament have had upon the Imin its Quality;

f c

provement of Linen Cloth

what new

Branches of that Trade formerly unknown to us, have

been introduced

at the publick

Charge

How

far these
still

are already improven; and

what other Parts

are

to
far

be introduced, improven and extended, and

how

the Application of the publick Funds, destined by

for the
tures,
c

Law

9
s

Encouragement of our Fisheries and Manufac-

have already contributed towards these Ends.

are desirous,

Many

and have been long expecting to

see something publisht

upon

this

Head; and the Author

observing

that

nothing of that Kind hath hitherto

appeared, he lately resolved, notwithstanding of the

just Sense he has of his

ance, to bestow as

own Unfitness for the Performmuch Time (as his necessary Attendprivate Affairs

*
c

ance upon his

own

would allow him)

to

reduce his Observations on this Subject, in which he

has been pretty

much conversant,

to Writing, to the

end

Hh

242

ESSAY
may be

VI*

that others of better Skill, and

more Knowledge

in these

Matters,

excited to Publish something of the

same Kind
of this

to better Purpose.

And now,
it is,

that nothing

Sort appears from

it

any other Hand, he has

and submits
it

adventured to send
to every Reader,

abroad, such as

4 it
4

who, he hopes,
in
it,

will consider

with

the same

View he had

namely, to create a Spirit

f
4

of Industry and Diligence in the People, to promote

the

Improvement and Extension of our Manufactures,

such of them as
are, or

at least of

may be

carried

on

4
4

with the greatest Profit, upon which the Happiness

and Prosperity of
4

this

Country depends,

In the

first

Part, he takes Notice of Idleness, and the

it,

bad Effects of
the whole
a

as

it

hurts Individuals, and as

it

affects

Body

of the People nationally ; and proposes

for suppressing of

few Rules of Police,

Theft and

Begging, and imploying of the Poor in Work-houses.

He
of

then speaks of the Causes of the Non-improvement

* *
4

our Grounds,

and of the

great

Advantages of

Agriculture; and proposes the same

Method

for the

Improvement of our Lands, by which the Estates of

England were
4

at first

improven.

In the

second Part, he treats of Industry as the

Source of national Wealth and Power, and of the

commonMotives to Industry; of Trade and Manufactures

hr general, of our Trade in particular, and of the Staple-

manufactures of England, and of

this

Country; of the

Causes of the Neglect and Non-improvement of our

Staple; of such Branches of Manufacture as are
carried

now
are,

on with Loss; of
liable

several

Trades that

now

and are

to be

overstockt,

and proposes some

*
4

Methods

to

prevent this;

of -the

Improvement and

Extension of our Staple, as the only

Way

to

imploy

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
^ all
6

243

our spare Hands of every Condition; of the Planta-

tion Trade,

and the great Benefit of these Settlements

an America to their

Mother Country,
to
raise

especially if they

were duly encouraged

manufactures;

Materials for

Home-

9
*

of the Necessity of the

Improvement

and

Extension

of

the

Manufacture
England and

of

home-made

Linen Cloth
<

in Scotland,

Ireland,

In the third Part, he gives a particular Account of

*
<

the State and Condition of the Linen-manufacture of

this

Country, as

it is

at this

Time, and of

its

Progress

'.since the First of

November 1727.

Upon

Perusal of

this

Part since

it

was

printed, he observes something, he

of,

*
.

intended to have

spoke

omitted,

namely,

bad

Practice in the Sale of Linen Yarn, of false and short

*
s

Tale notwithstanding of the Directions of the Act pf

Parliament to the contrary.
<

This

is

said to

be owing to the Use of Hand-reels, a

*
f

Method
that
their
tell

of making up

Yarn

so uncertain

and precarious,

no Persons

who

use them, can possibly be exact in

Numbers

of Threads.

No

Buyer can pretend to

the Threads of every

Cut of Yarn he buys, much

all

less

can the Stamp-master controul the Tale of

that
is

the

'

Yarn
as

presented to Sale in a Fair or Market; and

to

Yarn can be subjected

if

no Stamp or other certain

Check,

the Buyer discover not the Fraud until he

come
for
*

to sort his
to recur

Yarn

for

Use,

it

will then

be too

late

him

upon the

Seller.

The most
is

probable

Way

to

cure and prevent this

is

Evil,

to introduce the Practice of Check-reels every

if

f"
c

where, and

the

Funds appropriated
it,

for encouraging

the Linen-trade might allow

it

is

propos'd that the

Trustees, for the

more speedy furnishing of the Country

with Checks-reels, might give annually a certain Number.,

244
*

ESSAY
Wheels

VI.
in the

by "Way of Prizes upon Spinning,

that spinning

same

Way

<

are propos'd to be given at the

small spinning Schools:

And when

any Alteration or

<

Amendment of the Linen Act of Parliament is propos'd, the Use of Hand-reels may be discharg'd, and every
false

Tale of Yarn subjected to a severe Penalty, because

<

every Mistake in a Check-reel must be

fraudulent Intention to deceive the Buyer.

made with

Another Practice discharg'd by Law,

still

prevails in

several Places in the North, that proves a Loss to the

Spinners, which
altho' the

is

the

Use

of the eleven-quarter Reel,

Act

directs that all

Yarn

shall

be made up by

<

the ten-quarter Reel, being

two Yards and an Half, or

all

*
* (

ninety Inches in Circumference, and that

Reels,

wherever found, other than 2\ Yards, or 90 Inches in

Circumference,
shall, at the
all

Sight of the proper Officer,

shall

<

be destroyed, and
confiscated.

Yarn otherwise made up

be

All Stamp-masters ought therefore to be

strictly enjoined to
illegal

make

diligent Search for all such

all

<

Reels, and to seize

Yarn otherwise made up

the

<

than as the

Law

directs.
is

The Use

of Weights and Scales

only sure

<

Way

to prove

Yarn, both

as to its

Quantity and Fine-

<

Weaver uses this Method in making up a Parcel of Yarn for every Piece of Cloth, because he discovers, to a Certainty, if all the Yarn intended to
ness; every good

be used in the same Piece,

is

precisely of the

same

Fineness; for two equal Quantities, or Cuts of Yarn,

containing the same

Number

of Threads each, and each

if

Thread of the same Length,

must
also
differ

they differ in Weight,

in

Fineness.

This Practice would

likewise be of .great

Use

to the Dealers in
tell

Yarn ; they

have no more to do than to

one Cut, and to prove

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
all

245
differs

the rest

by Weight with

it,

and every Cut that

in

Weight, must likewise

differ either in Fineness, or in

Tale and Quantity.

The Parliament

of Ireland give great Funds for the

Improvement of

their

Linen-manufacture, no Defect

is

sooner discovered, that can be supplied by Encourage-

ment, than
at

it

is

done.

The Trustees

in Ireland gave,
all

one Time, 10000 Check-reels, which were

made,

and sent and distributed to the Spinners

in different

Places of the Country, at the publick Charge ; they also

at

several

Times have made

great

Numbers
They

of good

Looms, completely mounted, of the

them
gratis to the best

best Kind, and give

are likewise

Weavers.

careful to remove,

by publick Laws, every Thing that

has the least Appearance of a Discouragement to the

Linen-trade.

They, by Act of Parliament, exempted

all

Linen Cloth of every Kind from the Payment of

petty Customs, or small Duties that

were

in

Use
Fairs.

to be

paid upon
s

it

at

weekly Markets and Country

This Act well deserves our Consideration, to put our

Linen-trade upon the same Footing of Freedom and

Immunity with
are a Part

that of Ireland.

Those petty Duties

of the

Revenue of those Boroughs and

are sold at

Towns, where Linen Cloth and Linen Yarn

the

weekly Markets and Fairs; and a very small Part of

Revenue they

are; for the collecting of

as

them

costs

very near as

much

raising those small

plaints

The Manner of Customs occasions frequent Comthey yield.

in their Imagination,
in

and Disputes between the Dealers and Collectors,

which hurt the Dealers,

Communities themselves

and the

Reality:
fall

For when the

Dealers take Offence, they often

on

Ways

to dispose

of their Goods, without bringing them to Market; and

246
<

ESSAY

VI.

this so far diminishes the

Trade, and the Consumption

the Markets and

<

of Provisions in those
Fairs are held.

Towns where

The Town-council

of Dundee had this Matter under

ago, and very wisely

their Consideration

some Years

they remitted the Duties that used to be paid on Linen

Cloth.

They

struck this small Branch of their

Revenue

out of their Rent-roll, and exempted Linen Goods of

every

<

Kind from the Payment of Custom of every

The Effect of this was, that numbers of Country Weavers, who used to carry their Cloth for Sale to the
Kind.

Towns
still
it
4

that ly nearest them,

where the same Duties are

altho'

levied,

lyes at a
I

now bring their Cloth to Dundee, much greater Distance from them.
do

must humbly beg Leave

to submit this, with the

other Matters proposed in the following Discourse, to

the Consideration of the Royal Boroughs in their next

general Convention, to be held in July 1734.

are the Guardians of

They
this

Trade and Manufacture, and the

chief

Gainers and Losers by both:

is

And when

Matter

duly weighed, they will, no doubt, prefer

their real Interest,

(which obviously depends upon the

Improvement and Extension of our Staple-manufacture)

to this imaginary

Branch of

a Trifle of

Revenue, scarce

<

worth

collecting,

and prepare a proper Application to

Parliament for exempting Linen Goods of every Kind

<

from the Payment of

whatever,
Fairs.

all

Duties and petty Customs

in

either at

weekly Markets, or

Country

The

Parliament of Ireland did likewise (for the En-

couragement of Weavers) by a public Law, allow any

Weaver

to set

up and carry on

his

Trade

in

any

Town

or Incorporation in the

Kingdom wherever he

pleased,

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
that

247

notwithstanding any Monopolies or seclusive Privileges

had been formerly granted in favours of any Com-

pany or Corporation of Weavers.

The Weavers
to the

in this

City are indeed exceedingly easy upon this Head, they

are in

Use

to admit

any good Tradesman

Freedom
and
is

of their Incorporation, upon

reasonable: But
if

Terms
up
his

that are easy

any Foreigner or Stranger,

set

who

good Weaver, inclined to

Trade
a

in

any

Town
of

or Burgh, without being a

the Incorporation;
it

Freeman or

Member

would prove

a very great Encour-*

if

agement
to

to the

Linen-manufactUre,

they were allowed

work and

carry on their Trade,

it

where they imagined

this single

they could do

to the best

Advantage, upon

Condition on their Part, Residence^ and weaving of good

Cloth as the
likewise
offices,

Law

directs:
all

And

if all

Weavers were

exeemed from
it

publick Burdens, and Parish-

would be the

better,

and contribute much to

increase their
*

Number.

It is

observed, that any diligent young Lad, of an

ordinary

Genius,

who

applies

himself

close

to

his

Business, can

work and

finish a Piece of

Cloth very

well under the Direction of a good Master,

when he
is

has been but two Years at the Trade: But

it

found

from Experience, that no man ought to be intrusted to

sort

and size a Parcel of Yarn, to warp, put in the

finish a Piece of

Loom, weave and

least,

Cloth by himself,

before he has wrought constantly six or seven Years at

under the Eye of a

skilful

Master.
is

It is therefore

proposed,

when any Amendment

made

to the
it

Linen
this

Act,

that there

ought to be a Clause in

to

Purpose, to restrain any Weaver from setting up as a

Master, until he has wrought constantly under a good

Master or Masters for the Space of seven Years, and

248

ESSAY

VI.

then to be allowed to practise their Trade as Masters

wherever they please, upon finding Bail, as the

directs,
all

Law

conform themselves to the Observation of the Rules and Regulations contained in the Linen
to

Act of Parliament.
e

In the fourth and

last

Part of this Discourse, the

Author takes notice of the Advantages of our Situation

in

an Island, that our Security depends chiefly upon our

naval Force, and that our Navigation depends chiefly

upon our

Fisheries,

which ought therefore with great

Care to be encouraged.

He

speaks of several Discour-

agements and Hardships, that several Branches of our

Fisheries labour under at present, and proposes

some

Methods

for relieving them,

and of several probable

"Ways for improving and extending our Fishing-trade in

every Branch, by proper Encouragement.
<

Throughout the whole of

this Discourse, the

Author

has spoke his Mind, with Freedom, of our Abuses, bad

Habits, and unfrugal Practices of our Tradesmen and

Dealers of different Kinds, as they occurred to him;

and

in this,

he hopes, he has given no Offence,

as, it

ifr

apparent from his

It is a

Manner

of writing, he intended none.

Privilege peculiar to the Subjects of free States,

to speak or write

what they

think, and to publish

what

they write, so long as they observe the Rules of Decency,

and express that Regard and Respect for Dignities, and

Persons of high Rank, and in high Offices, that the
Nature, Peace, and good Order of every
requires.
civil

Society

The Liberty or Servitude of a Nation, appears as much from their Writings, as from any other Part of
c

their

Conduct

in Life.

Free States are

liable to

be

disturbed by Faction, and Party-struggles for publick

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.

249

Imployments:

And

their Writers, especially of History

< *

and Biography, discover a Biass for that Side to which

they are attach'd; but both Parties speak out their Sentiments with great Boldness and Freedom.
Liberties are often taken with

<

Indecent

Men

in

Power, and even

these are sometimes of

Use; they

serve to check and

to put

<

controul the Conduct of great

their

Men,

them on

Guard

to confine themselves, in all their Actions,

<
6

within the Bounds prescribed by

greatest Security.

Law, which

is

their

The Conduct
is,

of Princes, Ministers,

and other great Men,

in free States, variously repre-

sented, as the several Writers affect; but,

by comparing

the Accounts of both Sides, the

c

Truth

is

easily discerned.

Whereas, under

arbitrary

Governments, their Writ:

<
6

ings are stuft with Panegyrick and fulsome Flattery

Every

Man

in

Power

is

a great

and

good Man,

at least

so long as his

Power remains with him; and

live.

the worst

and weakest of Princes are dubb'd with the Characters

of the best and greatest, so long as they

The same

Characters are given to a Julius Cesar, or an Oliver Crom-

wel3 (who betrayed their Country, and trampled upon

Law and Liberty) that properly belong to a George Castriot,

a William Wallace, or a Prince of

Orange,

who

spent their

<

Lives in the Defence of

Law

and Liberty, and devoted

themselves to the Service of their Country, to rescue the

People from Servitude and the Bondage of a foreign

<

Yoke.
6

When

an enslaved Nation have the rare Happiness

to

be blest with the Reign of a Titus or a Trajan, then,

till

and not

then,

the

Truth and true Characters of

f
c

former Tyrants come out: Then the Spirit of Liberty

revives,
light,

and Truth

is

allowed to walk abroad in Day-

during the short Season of such a Sun-shine.

I
i

essay
*

vr.

This

is

apparent from the Writings of Tacitus, where?

the justest Sentiments of Liberty, and the strongest Dis^

position to assert
it,

*
4

appears almost in every Page: But

so strong an Impression

do the Restraints of Tyrants

that Tacitus appears,

make upon

the

Minds of Men,

on

many

Occasions, to be under a Kind of

is

Awe

and Dread

of going too far: So terrible

uncontroulable Power,

even in the Hands of the best of Princes;

f

The Author

submits his Observations, upon the sevof, to the

eral Subjects

he treats

Examination and Judg-

* c

ment of every candid and

impartial Reader; and hopes,

those who- discover any Errors, Mistakes, Defects, or

Omissions, will publish their Remarks with the same

Intention that he has done, for the Benefit of the Publick:

Or
if

if

they incline not to put themselves to that Trouble,

they transmit them to Mr. Flint, Secretary to the

Trustees, where the Author

may

have Access to see

of an Appendix

them, they may be published by

or

Way
if

'

Supplement to

this

Discourse; or

another Edition

*
6

shall

be wantedj by

Way

of Notes, in the proper Places

to

which they

refer.'

In a subsequent part of the work, the author gives, in

a note, the quantities of linens, stamped during the first
five years after the
1

passing of the Linen Act, which I shall

also copy.
<

The Linen Act

3

Of Parliament'

commenced the

first

November

727.

There was stamped

first

for Sale the first

'

Year preceeding

November 1728. in the West, and

Tat/.

Countries on the Southside of the River of

Yards.-

Value.

1,047,254*

L.66850

10

04

Total Quantity,

2,183,973

.103312

09

08

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
<
*

251

Second Year preceeding

-

first

November 1729.
L. 598 15
14?

South,

1,213,0131
2,0 12,1 42^

09
11

North,
Total,

54568

04
19

*
'

3,225,155|
1,041, 177|
first

.114383
11071

08*

Increas'd 1729.

10

00

'Third Year preceeding

<

November 1730.

South,

1,537,0112,218,651

Z.68777
62485
L, 131262

00
15

'North,
'Total,
'

09J 021

3,755,622-

15

^M
04-|

Increase,

530,506first

16878

}6

m
10-

'Fourth Year preceeding

'South,
-

November 1731. L. 79477

18

1,621,679^
-

'North,
'Total,
-

r
-

2,269,93^
3,891,57.3

66178
, 145656

15
14
18

03

/Increase,

135,91Qf
first

14393

03t

'Fifth Year preceeding

November 1732.

'South,

"*

1,751,038-

L.86566
81955
L. 168322

17 17

07

'North,
'Total,
'

-----

2,633,794^ 4,384,832-

0310|

14

Increase,
<

493,259J

22666

00

074

This

is

besides Cloth

made

for private

Use, of which

'

large Quantities of high pric'd Cloth for Shirting have

<

been

lately

made

since the

Commencement

of this Act.
at the

'

The Values
'

are taken

up by the Stamp-masters
consequence

lowest Estimate.

Increased

in

five

Years,

in

of the

'

Execution of

this

Encouragements
'In Value,
r

in
-

Act of Parliament, and the small Quantity, - - 2,200,854- Yards 5

-

.65,0 10

252

ESSAY
L. 932,6 17

VI.

In the year 1784, the quantity was 19,138,593 yards,

valued
until
at
:

11%; so that, from the year 1732,

1784, the increase of yards was 14,753,761^, and

:

of value L. 764,294

6$.

The
years

author,

it

will be observed, ascribes the

its

promotion

of the linen manufacture and

extension, during the

which he quotes,

to the salutary effects of the

Linen

Act, and this encourages him to offer

restriction

many

proposals of

and encouragement, some of which have been

enumerated.

But the unprecedently rapid improvement

of the manufacture of cotton, which

was then hardly

any extent until
legislature

known, and which was not prosecuted

to

many

years afterwards; with

if

which the

have

scarcely,

at

all,

interfered;

which has neither been

doubt at least the truth

cherished by bounties, nor fettered by statutory restrictions, affords sufficient

grounds

to

of his hypotheses, and to trace the extension of

factures to very different causes.
It is a

manu-

very

trite

observation, that

mankind

will always

purchase where they are cheapest and best served, but

its

truth cannot be disputed, and

it

applies forcibly in the

art

present case.

The

invention

of the

of spinning-

cotton by machinery, which originated in England, and

which, whether invented or not, was brought into practice

by the

late Sir

Richard Arkwright; and the many subseart,

quent improvements which have been made in that

are, unquestionably, the

primary and consequent causes

of the almost incredible extension of the cotton manufacture.

The
in

first

web,

entirely of cotton,

which was

woven
1773.

Scotland,

was manufactured by Mr, James

Monteith of Anderston, near Glasgow, about the year

Both the warp and woof of by women, upon the

in this country

web were spun common small wheeh

this

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
The

253

introduction of cotton warps in Lancashire was not

earlier, for

much
Little,

the

first

calicoes

were made

in 1772.

however, was done in weaving goods wholly of

cotton, until the water, or engine twist,

was generally

intro-

duced about 1780.

to

Some water

twist

was indeed brought

it

Scotland for sale, so early as 1776, but

did not begin to

be generally used for warps until some years afterwards.

From

that period, the manufacture

began gradually

to

extend, and the invention of the mu/e jenni/ 9 which

generally into use a

came

few years afterwards, enabled the

spinners to produce warps fitted for

much

finer muslins,

than any which had been spun upon the water frames.

The manufacture now extended with

and the application of power

astonishing rapidity,

to drive the mules, together

with many other improvements, both in the machinery

and economy of cotton

mills, whilst they daily ameliorated

the quality of the yarn, rapidly reduced the prime cost of

it

to the spinner.

This, again, very soon produced a

competition, which by generally supplying, and frequently

overstocking the market, reduced the price to the

facturer i

manu-

and the same competition naturally arising

the prices, as will ever be the case

among manufacturers,

under similar circumstances, were lowered to dealers, and,

consequently, to consumers.

The want
it

of stamp-masters,

bounties, penalties, &c. have never been felt in the cotton

trade*,

and,

consequently,

is

fair

to presume,

that

whatever extension has taken place in the linen, was

not occasioned by the operation of these expedients.

Some

frauds, indeed,

must have been

practised,

where

goods could not be sufficiently examined by the purchaser,

and to these the cotton

yarn, for
it is

is

equally exposed as the linen

equally impossible, in either case, to count or

examine every thread.

But these have always been found

254

ESSAY

VI.

to cure themselves, without the necessity of legal inter-

ference, by the loss of character, and consequent difficulty

of sale which they occasioned.

The same consequence

has always resulted after the yarn has been manufactured

into cloth; for the price has, in general, borne a pretty
fair

proportion to the quality,

when
in

the goods were of a

at the particular

similar description,

and equally

demand

market.
tions,

It is,

however,

fair to

admit that some restric-

for the

prevention of frauds,

might have been

little-

necessary,

when
with

the inhabitants of a country were

the
principles

acquainted
restrictions

of

trade;

but

these
at

become

totally useless,

and often vexatious,

more advanced

period.

At
ture, a

the present advanced stage of the cotton manufac-

good spinner, with the assistance of three children,

can work two power-mules of 300 spindles each, and from

every spindle of these two machines, can produce, of an
average fineness, say No. 72, 12 hanks of 840 yards each,

weekly, making in

all

7200 hanks, or

six millions

and

forty-eight thousand yards,

structed,

when

the mules are well con-

and the

stuff good,
is

and well prepared.

this

What
it is

the reduction of labour

tices of spinning

between

and the old pracwheel,

not

by the

distaff or

common
all

easy to ascertain, for to the labour of the spinner,

is

to

be

added that proportion of the labour of

in

those,

employed

the

preparatory

processes,

which

are

necessary to

supply him with materials.

72, although

Besides the

number quoted,
is

now esteemed
I

rather coarse than fine,

very

much

finer than

any thing ever spun

in this country

in the old

way.

have heard the reduction of labour

1,

estimated at the proportion of 200 to

but

shoul4

suppose

it

much more.

It is

The

position of Dr. Smith, that

the natural effect

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
of

255

improvement
all

to diminish gradually the real price of

strik-

almost

manufactures," was never, perhaps, more

.

ingly exemplified, than in this manufacture,

entirely arisen since his

which has

work was published. No. 73, was

In 1792, for nine

currently sold in the year 1787, for thirty-six shillings and

sixpence per

pound weight.

shillings

and eightpence-halfpenny; and in 1807, for four shillings

and fourpence-halfpenny.

During the same period, the

rather advanced than

raw material
lings per

has,

upon the whole,

declined in price, fluctuating between

two and three

shil-

pound.

Occasional scarcity has, indeed, at times,

rise

produced a temporary

of price, and

when

the market

was again
this,

fully supplied, a depression has taken place in

all

as

in

other

commodities-

On

the

average,

however, the money price has not varied greatly, the

exchangeable value
price

may

perhaps rather have sunk, for the

the

of

freight

occasioned by

war premium of
form

insurance, and the rise of seamen's wages, naturally

part of the

money

price.
fit

Taking, therefore, the average

for this

price of cotton wool,

number of

yarn, during

these years, to have

been two

shillings
first

and sixpence per

pound (which

is

very high) in the

price quoted (1787),

the price of labour, interest of capital, waste of machinery,

and spinner's

profit, will

be thirty-four

shillings.

In the

second (1792), seven shillings and twopence-halfpenny;

and in the third (1807), one shilling and tenpence-half-^penny.

is,

In the

last instance, the price

of manufacturing

probably, more than the calculation gives; but the

its

comparison between the value of the material in

state,

raw
will

and after being spun, does not

affect this calculation

it

more than the others, perhaps not so much; for

be observed, that the two years, formerly quoted, were

years of peace,

the last a year of most extensive war.

256

ESSAY

VI.
price of labour has

During the same period, the general

constantly increased; a very singular proof of the prodigious efficacy of judiciously applied improvement in the

mechanical

arts.

In the manufacture of linen, and other goods woven

from

flax,

no reduction of labour

to nearly equal extent

flax

has been effected,

Machinery for spinning

has,

indeed, been invented, and constructed upon a plan prettv

similar to that used for cotton.

This machinery has been

especially in

found useful

in effecting

some reduction,

the coarser kinds of linen yarn; but the very nature of

the

raw

material presents obstacles to the improvement

of the spinning of flax by machinery, which do not exist

with regard to cotton, nor even in the same proportion

with wool.

The

fibres

of

flax,

although very strong,

not nearly so well

from

their length,

and

inelasticity, are

calculated for the process of drawing by rollers as the

cotton,

which

is

short in the staple, and extremely elastic.

if

Further mechanical inventions and experiments,

ciously conducted,

judi-

may, no doubt,

still

greatly improve

the art of spinning flax, but there seem to be unsur-

mountable physical objections, to

rival to the cotton in price.

its

ever becoming a

Here, then, seem natural reasons,

for the very different advances

sufficient to

account

which these two manu-

factures have made.

child, unable to stand

The
upon

linen trade, like a ricketty

its

own

legs,

has constantly

required to be cherished and fostered by bounties.

at this

That,

moment

given upon the coarse goods, manufactured

chiefly in the county of

five to thirty

Angus,

is

not less than twenty-

per cent, ad valorem.

The

cotton,
it

on the

contrary, from, the superior facilities

has,

which

presents,

by the mere enterprise of

individuals, risen with the

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
growth of a giant; so
far

257

from requiring

aid or encour-

agement from the

state, the

raw

material has been for

its

some

years an object of taxation; and, short as

it

course

has been,
trade,

has already reached that advanced stage of

difficulty lies in finding

where the chief

markets

and consumers for the supply.

The
price,
lyes,

great reduction of labour, and, consequently, of

which has taken place

in the cotton manufacture,

however, almost wholly in those stages of the

process of manufacture, which bring the

into yarn.

raw

material

Much has

not yet been effected in the weaving,

facilities,

nor does

it

appear to afford

nearly equal to those

in

which presented themselves, and have been seized upon

the spinning.

The

great

improvement

in the quality of

the yarn, and the dexterity acquired by extensive practice,

have, no doubt, considerably reduced the prices of weaving,

but a good deal remains

still

to

be done.

In a national point of view, this has become of very

great importance, for the high price of labour in this

country, renders every means of facilitating

tions

all

the opera-

of manufacturing,

not only peculiarly desirable,

but essentially necessary.

Until the continent of Europe was almost completely
shut against us, the

immense exportation of cotton yarn

has sufficiently proved, that our great superiority lay in

the spinning, and that, in

many

instances, foreigners have

found

it,

at least, equally beneficial to

employ

their

own

looms, as to purchase cloth in this market.

Considerations

such as these have actuated a number of persons, for

some years
weaving,

past, to

endeavour to reduce the expence of

plain

particularly

coarse

goods,

by various

mechanical contrivances, and modes of economy.

these
I shall

Of

now

endeavour to give some account.

Kk

258
Cotton yarn
a cone,
is

essay
wound upon
and these are called

vr.
the spindle, in the form of

cops.

The
when

usual practice has

been to

reel these cops into hanks, for the

conveniency of

starching, dying, or bleaching,

required.

When

plain white goods are to be manufactured, starching only

is

required for the warps; for the process of bleaching

the yarn has been
is

takes place after

made

into

cloth.

After starching, the next process

winding, and then

warping, as noticed in the

first

Essay.

The

first

means

of saving labour, are by the omission of the process of

reeling,

and by winding the yarn

at

once from the cop

upon

the bobbin,

by means of
are

a machine,
at the

by which a

number of bobbins
made.
It

wound

same time.

To

accomplish the starching, different experiments have been

has been considered a very desirable object,

to starch

if

prac-

ticable,

and dry the yarn

in the cop,

before
chief
in
it

undergoing any of the subsequent processes.

obstruction

The

was found

to arise

from the dense form

which the yarn was

difficult

rolled together,

which rendered

both to impregnate the cop thoroughly with the

to dry
it.

starch,

and afterwards

To remove

the

first,

an

expedient was found, by exposing the cops to the operation

of the starch in an exhausted receiver \ for
sidered, that
it

was conwas

when

the pressure of the atmosphere

removed, the starch would penetrate

heart of the cop.

easily to the very

Upon

trial, this

was found

to succeed

very well, but the drying was

still

found excessively

tedious, and the glutinous nature of the starch rendered

the

subsequent operation of winding very

difficult.

am

not aware that these impediments have as yet been

effectually

removed, nor that the plan of starching

in

the

cop, has been brought into practice.

The

general mode.

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
therefore,
is

259

to

wind the yarn from the cop upon the

to

bobbin, to
starch the

warp the yarn by the common process, and

warp

in the chain.

Of

the winding machines,

different kinds

have been constructed, some driven by

the hand, others

by the foot

like a turning-lath,

and others
is

by the application of power.

questionably the best, where
a
it

The

latter

mode

un-

can be applied, for where

number of bobbins

are running at the

same time, the

be
sufficiently

person

who
in

attends

the

machine

will

employed

removing obstructions, knotting threads,

which occasionally break, and other necessary operations,

without being also obliged to drive the machine, either

bv the foot or hand.

cops are well built,

When
it is

power

is

employed,

if

the

very seldom necessary to stop the

machine, for any bobbin

the others.

may be

stopped without affecting

But when driven by the hand, or even by

occurs,
is
it

the foot,

when any impediment

is

generally

necessary to stop the whole, until that

this,

removed.

By

much time is lost, and, by one person much less.

For the reasons already

of course, the work produced

stated, I

am

sorry that I cannot

are simple in

give drawings of these machines.

their principle

They

and operation.

The bobbins

are placed

upon

vertical spindles, similar to the spindle

frame of a

mule, and the spindles are driven by cotton bands, from

a hollow tin cylinder, or

drum,

in the

same way.

The

threads are traversed upon the bobbin, by a wheel similar

to the

common heart traverse, as it is called, used in water spinning. The most recent and best constructed, which
have seen,
is

that lately introduced

by Mr. James Dunlop,

the bobbins are in

at

Barrowfield, near Glasgow.

As

general

wound

rather in the

form of a barrel than perhis traverse

fectly flat,

Mr. Dunlop constructs

wheel

so,

260
that one side of
it

ESSAY

VI.

should wind the yarn equally on every

part of the bobbin, and the other side so that the traverse

should be gradually retarded at the middle of the bobbin*

and accelerated
yarn
is

at

each end.

By

these means,

more

wound upon

the middle than the ends, at every

arising in the

alternate traverse,

and the yarn gradually

middle, the bobbin assumes the barrel shape.

quantity of starch
operation,
is

small

applied to the

yam

during this

by means of a horizontal wooden cylinder,

its

revolving on

axis in a trough filled

with starch, over

in their

the upper surface of

which the threads pass

progress from the cop to the bobbin.

that a

It is calculated,

woman, by one of

these machines, can

wind about

70 spyndles of yarn, of an average number, say No. 7Q

to 80, in a day.

Eight or ten years ago, the price of

winding No. 70, on the

pence per spyndle.
siderably reduced,

common

wheel, was about two-

Although these prices are now constill

a considerable saving
is

must take
conducted

place

by using the machines, where business

a scale sufficiently extensive to

upon

employ them con-

stantly.

In dyed warps,

it

does not appear that this plan

effect.

of economy has, as yet, produced any beneficial

Yarn can only be dyed

in the hank, and, consequently^

I

the process of reeling cannot be saved.

have seen

winding machines, constructed for the purpose of winding

dyed yarn from the hank, but these machines were so
frequently stopped by the breaking which took place, in

consequence of the yarn being both weakened and matted

together by the dye stuffs, that no saving, in point of

expence, was effected by employing them.

general system of

economy

in the manufacture of

cotton cloths was, some years ago, introduced at Stockport,

near Manchester, and partly imitated in Scotland;

of

which

I shall

now

proceed to give some account.

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
This system, in so
cesses,
is

261

far as regards the preparatory pro-

not very

much

different

from that already

described.
rather
twist,

The

cloths manufactured

were

plain,

and

coarse.

A portion

of warp, composed of water

it

was wound from the bobbins upon which

was
these

spun,

upon

a roller or

beam.

certain

number of

beams being combined, the yarn was again wound from

these

upon another beam, which formed one half of the

warp.

By

these means, the operations of winding and

warping were wholly omitted.

starch in the process.
that combination

The warp

received no

The

next object, was to avoid

of operations

which form the chief

obstacle to the speed of weaving.

A machine
that the

was there-

fore invented, for the purpose of dressing a

whole web,
subsequent

before

it

was put

into the loom,

operation of weaving might not be impeded.

Two beams,
warp was

each containing one half of the warp, being placed at

opposite
extremities

of

the

machine,

the

gradually

wound from

these beams,

upon another beam

each part was

placed in the centre, and elevated above the other parts

of the machine.

During

this

process,

supplied with the stuff for dressing, by means of a horizontal roller, revolving in a trough containing the stuff,
in a

manner

similar to that used in the

winding machine.

The

dressing

was then brushed

into the yarn,

by means

of two brushes, one applied to the upper, and the other

to the under surface of the warp.

These brushes received

motion was

a motion, similar to that communicated by a weaver's

hands in the
effected

common

process;

and

this

by

cranks, the brushes being sufficiently long to

include the whole breadth of the warp.

After

this,

the

warps passing under

rollers,

placed to guide the direction,

met upon the centre beam, immediately under which wa

262
which were attached
from the centre,

ESSAY

VI.

placed an apparatus, consisting of a horizontal axis, to

six or eight flat boards, diverging

like the radii of a circle.

These, by a
air,

rapid motion round the axis, generated a current of

for drying the

warp
being

after being dressed

and brushed,

previous to

its

wound upon

the receiving beam.

During the process of

distinct in the

dressing, the threads

were kept

wet

state,

by passing through two or three

coarse reeds, placed at convenient distances from each

other.

The

lease

was preserved by
the beam.

a set of heddles,

through which the warp passed, after being dried, and

before being

wound upon
wood,

Upon

the

beam
warp

were

jlanches of

to keep the selvages of the

perpendicular, and the whole at an equal breadth.

The

only

improvement

in

the

construction of the
it

loom, was an apparatus for winding up the cloth as

was woven; and, conseo^ently, saving the time necessary

to shift the cloth at intervals, or, as
it is

generally called,

to

draw

bores.

The

apparatus consisted of ratchet wheels,

moved by
by

hanging catch, to which motion was given

a lever attached at right angles, to the

upper extremity

of the swords of the lay, above the centres.

Some

saving must, undoubtedly, have been produced by this

plan, in weaving plain coarse fabrics \ but

many

obstacles

presented themselves

against

it.

The

chief of these

obstacles occurred in the dressing.

It

has been already remarked in the

stuff used

first
it

Essay, that

the

for dressing,

although

increases the
is

strength, tenacity, and smoothness of the warp,

fitted to resist the operation of the

not

atmosphere for any

It

length of time, especially

when
that

in a very dry state. in

may be

easily conceived,

the

early

stages

of

weaving, especially in a cold or moist climate,

this defect

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
would not
excite

263
much
and are and even

much

attention,

nor produce

inconvenience.
still,

Weavers' shops,

in those days,

are almost universally

upon the ground

floor,
this,

only floored with earth.

the shops
is

In consequence of

the air in

generally moist and humid, and from the pro-

cess of only dressing a small portion of

warp

at once,
little

and

weaving
venience

it

up almost immediately afterwards,

found.

incon-

is

In one respect, the

is

facility

with which
air,

the dressing material

rather advantageous.
after

acted on by a current of

seems

For, as the weaver dries his warp,

air in

being dressed, merely by setting the

motion by

a fan,

moved by

his hands, greater difficulty of drying

his progress.

would both fatigue the operator and impede

But
in the efforts

now making to improve

the

economy of

weaving, nothing appears more likely to promote the end,

than a
total division of the

labour of dressing and weaving,

and

this

can only be fully effected, by dressing a whole

It will also

warp
For

at once.

be necessary, that

this

warp

should be of considerable length to produce any saving.

as

much

time will be employed in drawing a short

the heddles and reed, as a long one, or in

web through
twisting one

web

to the

end of another.

Now,
it

until

means
for

are devised to preserve the

warp

in a

proper state
does

weaving, until a whole web can be wrought,

not appear that this object can be fully accomplished.

Besides this, in establishing extensive manufactories and

regular economy,
if
it

would be expensive and inconvenient,

all

not impracticable, to have

the buildings only one

story high,

more

especially if the
I

looms are to be driven

first
air.

by the application of power.

have stated, in the

Essay, the practice of weaving in India in the open

Since the time

when

that Essay

was written,

have

earnestly inquired of different persons

who

have resided

264
country; but I
inquiries have

ESSAY
am

VI.

in India, concerning the stuff used for dressing in that

sorry to say, that the results of these

far

been

from

satisfactory.

None

of those

with

whom I have conversed, being immediately concerned

transient.
is

with the business, any observations which they had made

were merely cursory and

that the substance used

They

agree,

however 3

a decoction of rice, formed

by

boiling the rice with a small quantity of water, and then

expressing the juice.

This juice, when cooled, forms a

I

thick glutinous substance.

have been also informed, that

before using

it

for dressing,

it

undergoes a certain process

of fermentation ; but whether this fermentation is produced,

or accelerated, by any mixture, or
if it is

entirely caused

by the weather,
also the stuff
is

have not been able to learn.

Whether

used after undergoing a partial or complete

fermentation, I

am

still

equally ignorant.
flour or potatoe dressing,
it

In this country, the

is

common

generally considered to

be better after

has been

fermented, especially in very dry or hot weather.

Yest or

barm

is,

therefore, sometimes

mixed with

it,

to

promote

fermentation.

Butter milk

is

also

sometimes added, and,

as before noticed, herring brine or other saline substances.

But while these experiments

are only

made by

operative

weavers, totally unacquainted with the laws of chemical

combination; and while the warp

is

to be dried

by the
little

manual operation of the

reason to expect
It

fan,

there seems to be

much

discovery in this part of the

to conjecture, that

art.

seems not unreasonable

any sub-

stance capable of adding to the smoothness and tenacity

of the warps, and which would resist the operation of

the atmosphere for a considerable time,
sive for
if

not too expenIt

common

use,

would answer the purpose.

seems also probable, that a substance which, when dried,

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
would possess
this property,

265
much

must

also require a

greater portion, either of circulation of air, or artificial

heat, to reduce
it

from the wet

to the dry state, in a rea-

sonable time.

But these

are merely given as probable

conjectures, and without a train of accurate and judicious experiments,

tical
it
is

not probable, that

much

prac-

benefit will be derived.

second disadvantage, incidental to

all

the dressing
their

machines hitherto contrived, has

practical
utility.

much impeded

the threads of

common process warp, when in the wet state,

In the

of dressing,

have always

a tendency to cohere, or stick together, and the agitation

of the

air,

produced by the fan, naturally increases

this

tendency.
at intervals,

To

prevent

this, the

yarn

is

slightly

brushed
to co-

while drying.

The same tendency

hesion, occurs in warps dressed by machinery, and presents a very great obstacle to their speed.

The

reeds

through which the warp passes, are intended, in some

measure, to remove
this,

but the great friction caused

in a

by the yarn passing through them

their tendency to

wet

state,

and

be clogged by the dressing, are serious

causes, threads are frequently

disadvantages.

broken,

From these and when this is

the case, the operation

must

be suspended, the machine stopped, and the warp

a

left in

wet

state, until these

it is

threads are repaired.

When

the

threads are tied,

necessary, in most cases, to pass

them through

all

the reeds; and this, necessarily, occu-

pies a considerable portion of time.

Of

course,

when

many

are to be tied, the operations of brushing

and fan-

ning are so long suspended, that the warp frequently gets

entangled, and
is

separated with difficulty, and often with

more breakage.

Besides this,

when long

exposed,

it

is

LI

266
often too

essay
much
be

vr.

dried and hardened by the

in a proper state for

mere

actioit

of the

air, to

weaving.

A
ston,

dressing machine,
since,

somewhat

different in principle,

was invented

by Mr. Quintin Macadam^ Anderat

and brought into practice by Mr. John Monteith,

his manufactory, at Pollockshaws, near

this

Glasgow.

For
as

machine, a patent has been obtained.

is

The warp,
at the
is

in the other,

wound from two beams

The

ends of

the machine, and after being dressed and dried,

lodged

upon

beam

in the middle.

chief novelty in this

are constructed

machine

consists in the brushes,

which

on

cylinders,

similar to those

of a carding engine.

The

circumference of these cylindrical brushes, being placed

in contact

with the under surface of the warp, they com=>

municate the brushing by revolving upon their

own

axles*

Upon
air.

each end of the machine, there are two of these

cylinders,

and two circular wooden fans to

first first

agitate the

Between the brushes, the

warp
partially

fan

is

placed, to dry
It

the

after

the

brushing.
is

then

receives the second brushing, and

completely dried

by the second

fan,

which

is

placed between the second

brush and the receiving beam.

This mode of brushing the warp between the wet and

dry
state, assimilates the operation

of the machine

more

to the

common manual

process, and

may,
it

in that respect,

be productive of some advantage; but

that the inconveniences arising

does not appear^

pro<

from the chemical

perties of the dressing, or the friction caused

by the

reeds,

are

more obviated by

this

machine than the former.

For another process,

essentially useful in dressing yarn,

is

no provision, whatever,
This
is

made in either of these machines.

no

picking the warp, previous to the application of the

dressing.

With

all

the improvements in spinning,

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
yarn
is

267
snarls.

entirely free

from

inequalities,
is

lumps, and

Every good and careful weaver

these,

at pains to

remove

and any knots which may have been carelessly tied

in the preparatory processes, both to prevent obstructions in his sheds, and to improve the appearance of his cloth,

when woven.
of the mind,
ery.
It

As

this process

depends upon discrimina-

tion and selection,

it is

and consequently involves an operation

impossible to effect
it

by mere machine

seems, however, perfectly possible, that this part

of the operation

may be

effected

by human labour, and

are

the remaining operations,

which

uniform, by ma-

chinery, with considerable economical advantage.

An

experiment of
scale,

this nature

was

lately

made, upon

a small

by Mr. Dunlop,

at Barrowfield,

but has not as yet

been

sufficiently followed up, to enable us to decide prac-

tically

Upon

its

merits in point of quality, or of the saving

of labour actually produced.

The machine

constructed,

combined the principle of dressing by the

common

manual operation, and part of that of the two dressing

machines,
j-he

already noticed.

The web was warped on

in the usual

common warping mill, and beamed The beam upon which the warp was
beam
of a

way.

rolled,

was then

placed in the machine, in a situation similar to the yarn

common

loom.

At

the other extremity of the

machine, was the beam for receiving the yarn

dressed, placed nearly in the

when

same

situation as the cloth

beam of

loom.

The

heddles, lay, and reed, were, of

course, omitted, and the lease

rods, exactly in the

was preserved by three

common way.

When

the

web was

stretched in the machine, in a direction nearly horizontal,

the receiving

beam being only

raised a

few inches above

facility in

the other, to afford the operator

more

picking

and brushing, the operation commenced.

The

rods were

268
combed down, from

ESSAY

VI.
to

the receiving

the

discharging

beam, the warp picked and brushed by manual labour, in the usual way, and the lease rod placed on its edge.

Under

the

warp was

a circular

wooden

fan,

which was

now

set in

motion by the power, while the operator con-

tinued to brush the warp while drying.

inclosed in a circular
in

The

fan

was

wooden box, with an

its

aperture only

the upper part of

circumference.

During the
its

operation of drying, this box was

moved upon

centre

by

common

heart traverse; and as the air set in motion

by the

circular revolution of the fan, could only escape

at plea-

by the aperture, whose position might be varied

sure, every part could be sufficiently dried, without any

part

being too

much

hardened.

"When

the

yarn was

sufficiently dried, the portion of

warp which had been

part of the machinery,

dressed,

was wound, by another

warp presented

from the discharging upon the receiving beam, and a

fresh

portion of

to

undergo the same

operation,

which was repeated

in the

same manner,

until

the whole

warp was dressed and wound upon the

re-

ceiving beam,

which was then carried from the dressing

machine

to the loom.

To this
some

process, as here described,

there certainly occur

serious objections; but

it,

from
in~

what

saw of the

principles and effects of

am

clined to think, that something of a similar kind, if pro-

secuted with judgment, energy, and perseverance, might

be essentially useful, in promoting the process of weav*

ing both linen and cotton

goods,

upon

principles

of

economy superior
if

to

any yet introduced, more especially

I

the

chemical part can also be improved.

shall

shortly state

my

reasons for adopting this opinion, preit

mising, as usualy that

as hypothetical;

ought to be considered merely

practical proof being

no opportunity of

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
yet in existence.

The

first

defect

which appears

in the

process,

is

the conducting the operation of brushing, by

manual labour, instead of using power.

Every weaver
a

knows

that the situation of his

body bending over

is

warp, while picking or dressing his web,

fatiguing to an
vals of ease,

painful and

uncommon

degree.

It is

only the inters

which he enjoys, while weaving up what he

has dressed,

when

the body

is

in

an erect and natural

posture, and the small proportion of his time

in dressing,

employed

which enables him

to support this.

But

in

this process, the

body must be almost incessantly

in this

fatiguing and unnatural position 5 for no sooner has he

finished the dressing of one portion of warp,

than he

must commence another.

may be made for the effects of habit, in accustoming the human body to support exertions, which, when first tried, prove uncommonly fatiguing, I am
"Whatever allowance
inclined to doubt,

whether any practice would enable a

man

to

work

incessantly at this operation for a sufficient

it

number
this, so

of hours daily, to render

productive.

Besides

much
is

is
it

to be

done by the hand, and so

little

by the

power, that
of labour

does not appear, that, although a division

created,

almost any consequent reduction

the brushes by power, the

can be expected.
toil

By moving

of the operator will be at an end, so soon as he has

his warp, excepting, that
first
it

combed and picked

wards
his fan;

will be
after-

necessary to set his brushes

or,

in motion,

and

the

first

of these

may engage
in

the

second at a proper time.

In this interval, by placing

two machines together, he may be employed

the operation, the labour of one

combing

and picking another warp, and thus, without impeding

man may

keep two, or,

perhaps, three machines employed, with less fatigue and

270
exhaustion,

ESSAY

VI.

than would be necessary for one.

The
is

picking and combing of the warp,

when yarn

well

spun, which
cotton,

is

requires

now generally the case, especially in much less time and labour than the
be
sufficiently

brushing 5 consequently, one warp might be combed and

picked

much

faster than the other could

dressed, dried, and

To

a plan of

wound upon the receiving beam. this kind, it may be objected, that
is

the

motion of the brushes

not uniform, nor the range equal

in all stages of the process.

Weavers

find

it

necessary

to brush that part of the

first,

warp nearest

to the yarn

beam

and gradually to extend the range of the brushes,

have brushed the whole undressed warp.
is

until they

The

reason of this

as

follows.

Every kind of yarn has

upon

it

a certain proportion of loose stuff, not sufficiently

its

incorporated by the twine, to retain

acted upon by the brushes.

situation,

when
these

Therefore,
is

when

the whole

range of the stretched warp

loose particles are

brushed

at once,

drawn by

the brushes to the lease rod,

or yarn beam.

In a few dressings, these accumulate to

guch a degree, that they mat the yarn together, and form
very serious obstructions to the operations of weaving,

But when the warp

is

gradually dressed from the lease

rod upwards, the glutinous nature of the dressing makes

those nearest to the

beam adhere

to the yarn, before the

uppermost are touched by the brushes.

instead of being
all

Of

consequence,

collected in one point, they are scat-

tered over the whole surface of the warp, and occasion

little, if

any, impediment.

That

it

would be of advantage
by machinery, seems
and almost

to imitate this

motion

in brushing,

very reasonable to suppose, for the same effects would

be produced in* both ways.

But the

great,

boundless variety of motion which

may be communicate^

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
by machinery,
in the

271

hands of an ingenious mechanic,

to

would prove quite which might

sufficient

surmount any obstacle

arise here.
if

This mode of dressing,

adopted and perfected, would

except that

obviate every objection against the others,

which

arises

from the quality of the dressing, and even

here the disadvantage

would be considerably

lessened.

In the

first

place, the facility of picking the

warp would

be of great service, by removing impediments, both to

the succeeding parts

of the dressing process, and the

2dly, All obstacles,

subsequent operations of weaving.

arising

from the

friction of the reeds,

would be removed;
This would also

for

none are necessary in

this process.

prevent any necessity of suspending the operation in the

wet

state,

which produces so much

difficulty in the other

modes.

For any threads, which might be broken during

the brushing,

would be brushed down

to the lease rod,

where they would remain, without producing any injury,

until the

web was

sufficiently dried,

and they might then

be knotted, before the dressed yarn was

receiving beam.

wound upon

the

3dly, Every dressing might be equally

dressed and dried,

which

is

of most essential importance,

in a

and

if

speedily

wound up when

proper

state,

might
yarn

remain so for a considerable time; for only the

rolled

last

on the beam, would be much exposed

air.

to the action

of the

Lastly, were

it

found by experience, that one

person could keep three, or even two, of these machines

in constant

motion,

am

persuaded, that the labour of

in

that person

would produce more work, and superior

quality, to that effected

by any other scheme, which has

been
I

tried.

have thrown these hints, which occurred to

me upon

comparing the various modes of dressing which have been

272

ESSAY

VI.

tried, loosely together, for the consideration of those

who
this

are interested in the prosecution and

improvement of

branch of the manufacture.

As

this is still in a state of

infancy, I have done this with considerable diffidence

for as I have never been practically

employed
this

in con-

structing or employing machinery of

facts

description,

and considerations, important

in practice,

may have

escaped

my

notice.

In

all

mechanical inventions and

improvements, experience has convinced me, that before

proceeding to put them in practice, the theories and principles should be maturely

weighed, and the obstacles

likely

to arise, with the

vestigated.
difficulties

means of removing them,

all

carefully in-

Even when

this has

been done, unforeseen

always occur, which can only be surmounted

by decision, energy, and perseverance.

I

now come
lately

to consider the various plans,

which have

been

adopted for the purpose of working the

weaving loom, by the application of power.

periments, upon a small scale, have been
considerable

Many
made

ex-

for a

number of

years past,

and looms, upon

attempt to establish

various plans, constructed.

a regular

The

first

manufactory of
that

this description, in Scotland,

was,

believe,

of Mr. Robert Millar, at Milton

is
still

Printfield,

Dumbartonshire, which
for

prosecuted.

These looms,
their

which

a patent

was obtained, receive

motion from treddles, moved by those excentric

wheels, which are

of wipers.

known among mechanics by

I

the

name

Another loom, the origin of which

believe to be

English, but which has lately been introduced in Scot-

land to considerable extent,

last,

is

the crank

loom.

The
been

invented by Mr. Johnson, and brought into practice

Shirreff, for

by Mr. Robert
granted,
is

which

also a patent has

the vertical loom-

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
In these looms, different

278

modes of construction have

plan of weaving by power

been adopted, without any material deviation from the

same general principle.

The
is

has been so recently introduced, and hitherto confined to

so few hands, that

it

natural to suppose, that

improvements

still

remain to be made, and that

many much

difference of opinion, respecting the relative merits of the

different plans does,
I shall,

and

will, for a considerable time, exist.

for these reasons, confine

my

observations and

descriptions to the principal

moving

parts of each, leaving

to

the connections, and framing of the machines,

the

judgment and discretion of those, who may apply them

to practice*

With
cloth,

the exception of the motion for winding up the

is

and unwinding the warp, which

all

rotatory on the

axes of the beams,

or

the motions of a loom are alternate,

reciprocating.

The two methods, most common

these motions, are cranks

among mechanics, of producing

and wipers, or excentric wheels*

The
at

reciprocating motion derived from the revolution

of a crank

on

its

own

axis, is

not uniform, but accelerated

at

one time,

and retarded

another.

By means

of

wipers, the motion

or retarded, at

may be made

uniform, accelerated,

any part of the revolution, according to

to

the effect

which the engineer wishes

this

produce.

In

many machines,

property gives the

wiper a very

decided advantage over the crank; but, in the weaving

loom, the retardation of the crank, so far from being

disadvantageous,
is

of considerable service.

In Plate 14. will be found representations of the chief

working parts of the different power looms; and

vertical

as the

loom

is

the one most recently invented, I have

Mm

274
given
a
profile

ESSAY
am

VI,
it*

and transverse elevation of

I

froi

drawings, for which

indebted to Mr. Shirreff.

WIPER LOOM.
Fig.
1. is

a representation of the

way

of moving the

heddles in this loom, so as to open the sheds.

figure
is

This

a profile

elevated

section of

the heddles L,

connected with the treddles S,

in a

much

in the

same way as

common

loom.

In some power looms, the cords-

above the heddles pass over pullies, as in the figure; in

others, Jacks are used, as in the

common

loom.

The

motion

is

given to this loom, by a horizontal cross shaft,

are a

upon which
shaft,

number of

wipers.

section of this

with the double wiper, which sinks the two treddles

is

alternately,

represented at S.
for

These wipers may be constructed

motion, in the following manner.

any range of

Describe a circle of

a convenient diameter on the piece of

wood, or other

substance,

which is

to

form the wiper.

is

Having considered
to the

the range which the wiper

treddle,

to

communicate
circle,

draw

a diameter line

through the

and upon

this line set off" the length of the

proposed range on the

outside of the circle.

circle concentric

At

this point, describe a

first,

second

with the

and divide the circumparts.

ference into a great

centre

number of equal
setting

From
a

the

draw

a radius to each of these divisions, and the

wiper will

be ready for
is

off.

If

uniform

reciprocating motion
tion of the wiper,

wanted during the whole revoluonly necessary to divide the space

circle into as

it is

between the inner and outer

parts as half the
parts

many equal
three

number of
radius line,

radii.

Set off one of these

on the

first

two on the second,

on

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
the third, the
off;

275
when

and so on,

until the

whole are

set off,

semi-circumference of the wiper will be marked

and the same operation reversed, will give the other

This forms exactly the

or returning side.
traverse.
to

common

heart

In the figure, a few radii are drawn upon S,

the principle ; but
is
it

show

will appear that

each of

these

two wipers

constructed on half the circle, so that

its

each

may

operate alternately on

respective treddle,

when both
the shaft.

sheds will be opened by one revolution of

As

it is

necessary that the shed should remain

is

open while the shuttle

passing through,

all

the range

must be
centre,

set off

some time before the winer i

left

arrives at the

and the extremity

circular to

suspend the

motion for the time required.

This

is

the case with the

two wipers
Fig.
2.

at S.
is

profile

elevation

of the

apparatus for
its

moving the

lay.

above, as in the

E is the lay vibrating on common loom. The lay is

centres

pulled back

by the operation of the wipers S upon the treddle R, by

means of the connection represented

in the figure.
is

After
pulled

the shuttle has passed through the shed, the lay

forward by a weight attached to a cord or belt, passing

over
a

pully,

as

represented.

These wipers

are

also

Constructed on semi-circles,

that the lay

may

operate

twice in one revolution, as well as the heddles.

wipers, however, operate

Both

upon the same

treddle, as they

are only intended to repeat the

same motion, while those

which move the heddles must reverse the shed.

is

There

an apparatus of

this

kind at each side of the loom, to

keep the lay steady.

The wipers

for this

motion are
In

upon the same

shaft

with those for the heddles.

some power looms, the swords of the lay are reversed,

and move in centres below*

There

are different

wavs

276

ESSAY

VI.

for driving the shuttle.

In some, the driver cords are

tails,

attached to the point of a lever with two cross

as

represented by T, Fig. 3.

This

lever,

being

placed

perpendicularly under the warp, with

to the horizontal shaft,

its flat side parallel

its

and moving freely on

centre,

the cross

tails

are alternately struck

by two pieces of iron,

fixed to the shaft, as represented at

U,

in Fig. 7. and,

by
In

moving the

lever, drive the shuttle across the

web.

other looms, two treddles are used, which are

alternately,

moved

by wipers on the

shaft,

and produce the

same

effect.

Various means are also used for winding

up

the cloth, of

which some notice

will be taken

when
mean

we come to consider the time, we proceed to the

vertical loom.

In the

CRANK LOOM.
In
is

this

loom no treddles
directly

are necessary, for the motion

communicated

by the cranks.

Fig. 4.

is

profile of the heddles,

shaft.

and section of the heddle crank

The

shape of the cranks will appear by Fig. 5.

is

where

a small portion of the shaft

represented in a

transverse direction.

Fig. 6.

is

a profile of the lay,

and

section of the lay crank shaft.

Fig. 7.

is

a transverse

view of the
cranks.

shaft,

to

show the way of disposing the

this

It will

be obvious, that in

loom two

hori-

zontal shafts are necessary, for only one stroke of the

lay can be
shaft,

effected

by a whole revolution of the

lay

whereas in the wiper loom the double wiper gives

two.

These

shafts are placed parallel to each other,

and

on the same

level, the

heddle cranks being perpendicularly

under the heddles, and the lay cranks behind.

As

it is

necessary that the lay shaft should revolve twice, while,

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
the heddle shaft revolves once, the latter takes
its

277
motion
as repre-

from the former, by

sented by Fig. 8.

a spur

wheel and pinion,

The

wheel, containing double the

is

number of

teeth of the pinion,

fixed

on the heddle
pully,

shaft, the pinion

on the lay

shaft.

The
is

which
lay

receives the motion

shaft.

from the power,

also

on the

The swords

of the lay are lengthened below the

boxes, to bring the connecting rods level with the shaft,

and these connecting rods,

of iron.

in

both motions, are usually

is

The

shuttle

motion

effected

by

either of the
to the

two plans formerly

last invention,

described.

We

now come

the

VERTICAL LOOM.
Fig. 14.
is

a profile elevation of

two of these looms,

constructed at opposite sides of the same frame, and will

convey a tolerably correct idea of their framing and

appearance.
end.
Fig.
15.
is

a transverse

elevation of one

The remaining

figures

on the
parts.
'

plate,

9 to IS inclurecipro-

sive, are the several

working

The whole
shafts.

cating motions of the vertical loom, are also effected

by

cranks, and these cranks are

upon two

is

a balance
is

wheel on the lay crank

shaft,

one side

of which

so

much

heavier than the other, as to coun-

terpoise the

weight of the lay and swords, and make

ease.

them ascend and descend with equal

rise

The swords

and sink between sheers, or guides, to keep them

steady.

is

the pully which- takes the motion from the power,

is

and which

also

on the lay

shaft.

is

the lay shaft, with a crank at either end, similar

to those of the crank

loom.

&*!

78

ESSAY
is

VI.
shaft, receiving

D
from

wheel on the heddle

motion
lay-

a pinion of half the

number

of teeth on the

shaft, as in the

crank loom.

E
tally,

is

the lay and boxes, with the reed placed horizon-

and on which the shuttle runs.

is

the yarn beam, from

which the warp ascends

perpendicularly through the mounting.

is

the cloth

beam

above, for receiving the cloth

when woven.

H
I

the wheels

by which the cloth

is

wound

up.

is

the lever and fork, for engaging or disengaging the

at pleasure.

machine

K
the

is

a
if

catch,

by which the loom

will be instantly

stopped,

the shuttle should remain in the shed.

this kind,

All

power looms have contrivances of

which

will be

more

particularly noticed afterwards.

The
figures.

nature and construction of each particular motion

will appear

more

plainly,

by inspecting the supplementary

Fig. 9. contains a profile

of the horizontal heddles^

and the apparatus for moving them.

At L
by

are the heddles, placed horizontally, and guided

belts, passing over pullies

before and behind.

To

one of these
lever

belts

is

attached one end of the bended

M, moving
is

freely

on

its

centre,

and the other end

of which
this

connected with the crank N.

The
in

shape of
Fig.
10.
is

shaft

and crank will be plainly seen

Besides the crank for the heddles, upon this shaft

projecting

stud P,

operating like
Fig. 11.
is

crank for giving

motion

to the shuttle.

a profile elevation of
is

the apparatus by which the shuttle motion

cated.

communitwo

is

a sliding bar

which moves

freely in

bushes backward and forward.

Upon

the edge of this

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
slider,
is

279

a rack

which moves

a pinion

upright shaft, on the upper part

lever, to

Q, fixed upon an of which is a cross

which

which

are attached

two

leather thongs,

are also connected with the drivers.

The

stud P, the

end of which appears here

like

round dot, moving

forming part of the

round

in a

hollow

elliptical piece,
it

slider, alternately

moves

rapidly

backward and forward,

This motion
shaft to

by means of the catches above and below.

drives the cross lever

upon the top of the upright

the right and

left alternately,
is

and thus the motion

Fig. 12.
is
is

by means of the pinion Q, communicated to the drivers.

ground plan of the rack and pinion.

Fig.
cloth.

13,

an outline of the plan for winding up the

On

the axis of the cloth

beam

is

fixed a wheel, on

the outside of
axis.

which

is

a ratchet wheel, loose

is

upon the
is

This ratchet, one tooth of which

a catch, jointed to the

represented,

moved by

end of a spring conis

nected with a lever; the other end of this lever nected with the
stiffened
at

con-

lay.

This spring may be slackened, or

pleasure.

Every time the lay

rises,

the

spring and lever are pulled

down,

to

move

the ratchet

one tooth; but the spring

yield without

is

made

sufficiently slack, to

moving the

ratchet, unless assisted

fell

by the
Conseis

stroke of the reed

upon the

of the cloth.

quently,

if

the weft breaks, no winding-up motion

produced.

This

is

very necessary, for, were the loom

cloth to be

to go a shot or

two without weft, and the

wound
fixed
a

up,

it

must

either be let back, or a large unweft-

ed interval would be produced.

pinion,

Upon

the

ratchet

is

which moves

wheel turning loosely

to this wheel, gives

upon

a stud.

Another pinion, fixed

the motion to the fast wheel on the axis of the cloth

beam, and consequently

to

the

beams.

The

relative

280

ESSAY

VI.

numbers of these wheels and pinions, must depend on the

quantity of weft in a given space, and they must be
fitted

on so
all

as to

be easily altered

at pleasure^

In

the

different
it

experiments

upon weaving by

power, hitherto made,

confine the shuttle
it

has been found advantageous to

in either box, to prevent
a circular

when lodged

from

recoiling.

This has been effected by

piece of wood, pressed through one of the edges of the

box by

a slight spring,

which

yields to the pressure of

its

the shuttle the recoil.

when
It
is

entering, and by
also

friction, prevents

material to

disengage the loom

from the power

shed; for
if

instantly^ if the shuttle

should stop in the

will

driven up by the lay,

much damage
are
lay,

be
is

the probable consequence.

This disengaging motion,

taken

from

these

springs,

which

connected

by

bended

levers,

and a wire across the

so that either

will operate.
I,
is

In the vertical loom, the disengaging lever

pressed by a spring,
to

strongly

force
is

out

the

driving pully, whenever the catch above

lifted.

To
the

the spring for securing the shuttle, an upright piece of

iron

K, moving on a
is

joint

is

attached.

When

spring
this
is

pressed back by the shuttle, the upper part of

clear of a notch in an upright
catch*,

thrown forward,

slide,

attached to the disengaging

is

but

if

one
will

spring

not pressed,

K not being

thrown forward,

strike the

notch, and instantly disengage the machine.

The

contrivances for disengaging the other looms, are

exactly

upon the same

principle,

little

differently

modified to suit the construction of the looms.

When
beam
is

the vertical loom

is

to
is

work yarn which

re-

quires dressing, an iron roller

placed where the yarn

itself in a

represented, and the

beam

small addiroller.

tional frame, parallel to,

and on

a level

with the

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
so that the part to
as in a

281

be dressed

is

in a horizontal position,
is

common

loom.

Every power loom

generally

furnished with a circular fan, such as formerly described,

placed under the warp, and which

is

occasionally set in

motion

to dry the yarn after being dressed.

Two

pair

of temples are generally used in power weaving.

It is

not easy to decide, justly, upon the comparative

merits of these looms, and

difference

upon

this subject a considerable

of opinion

still

prevails.

The wipers

are,

without doubt, susceptible of a modification of the motion, to suit different fabrics, in a

much

greater degree

than the cranks; but in the coarse fabrics, hitherto woven

by power, the crank motions are found

rect.

sufficiently cor-

The mode
is

of striking up the lay, by means of a

weight,

found productive of one very considerable

inconvenience.

The

force of the lay has a tendency to

slacken, and, consequently, to spread the warp, and

when

the shed closes in this state, the threads are apt to obstruct

each other, and occasion breaking.

very simple and

ingenious apparatus, has lately been added to the vertical

loom, to obviate

this disadvantage,

which

also attends the

crank loom, although not to an equal degree.

This

is

merely a

flat

board, the edge of which

is

parallel to the

warp, and which moves on centres.

By means

of

two
lay,

bended
this

levers,

connected by cords, or thongs, to the

board presses the warp

it

when
is

the shed closes, and

recedes from

when

the shed

opened.

Thus

the

Warp
might

is

kept uniformly tight.

The same

contrivance

easily

be applied to either of the other looms.

The

vertical

loom

certainly appears to possess

some

decided advantages over, the others.

Istly, It

occupies a

much

smaller space of room, and,

consequently, in a large manufactory, a considerable sav~

Nn

282
and

ESSAY

VI.

ing might be effected, both In the expense of building,

in that of shafts

and other mill work.

2dly,

pirn

From may be

the shuttle running

used,

upon the reed,

risk

a larger

without

any

of injuring the

warp by
Sdly,
in

friction.

When

it is

necessary to dress the warp, which,

usually done without stopping the

power weaving,
it

is

loom,

presents the following very important advantage.

The

operator, while dressing, remains exactly in the

same

situation as

when

attending the working, and can, there-

fore, see in a

moment, any thing which may go wrong;

whilst in the other looms, the person, while attending the

working, must be in front, and

when

dressing, behind,

where

it

is

very difficult to see any obstruction which

before the reed.

may happen

In the 1st Essay, some remarks were made on the

danger and inconvenience arising from working

loom

beyond a proper

rate of velocity.

Practical experience

has uniformly proved this to be highly injurious in the

manual operation, and

equally,
It
if

am

fully convinced,

it

must be

not more prejudicial, in weaving by power.

has been

common

to drive

power looms

at the- rate

of

80 or 90 shots per minute, and attempts have even been

made,
to accelerate this velocity

Mechanics know that even

much beyond 100 shots. rotatory motion, when urged

fails in

beyond

moderate speed, always

producing the
proved
in

effect expected.

This has been

all

sufficiently

spinning, where almost

the motions are rotatory.

less

In

weaving, where there are no

motions, the effect must be
in

than three reciprocating

injurious, especially
shuttle,

still

more

the lay and heddle motions.

The

indeed,

may be

driven with considerable swiftness, for no injury

this,

can arise from

unless the shuttle

is

thrown out of

ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
the box, or

288

the weft too

much
at

strained and frequently

broken.

Suppose, as in Essay

1st, a

with 1200 weft, to be woven

minute.

1000 J shawl cloth, the rate of 80 shots per

24<

This will give

yard in 30 minutes, or
if

yards

per day of 12
place.
I

working hours,

no stop were to take

cannot state with certainty, what has been the

greatest quantity of cloth of this description produced

by

power looms.
loom,
if

The

average

quantity on
is

the

vertical

have been informed,

about

5 yards, so that,

the

loom works

at the velocity

quoted, more than one

Besides, I

third of the time

must be

lost

by stopping.

do not think that goods of this description have, in general,

so

much weft

as I

have taken in the calculation.

Upon

the whole, I should suppose 70 to 80 shots to be the

maximum of
terials;

velocity, at

which

it

is

prudent to drive a

power loom, even with the

and
if

coarsest and strongest

maand

these looms are applied to

weave

finer

lighter fabrics, I suspect even this velocity

must be con^

siderably diminished.

The

last

plans of

economy

in

weaving, which

it

will

be necessary to discuss, are those which relate to the insertion of the weft.

The

process of winding the weft

is

upon the
tedious,

pirn,

whether from the hank or the cop,

and, consequently, expensive.

Two

means of
first

reducing this expense, have been devised.

these
is,

The

of

by placing the cop

itself in

the shuttle upon a

is

skewer, by which the whole expense of winding

saved.

As

the cops, however, are generally too large for an

it

ordinary shuttle,

has been

usual to compress them.

This

is

effected

by means of two hollow inverted cones,

generally of brass, with a hole through the vertex of each

to

admit the skewer.

The cop being

placed upon the

skewer, the two cones are pressed together by means of

284
a lever or screw.

ESSAY

VI.

The cop, being between the cones, is thus compressed to a much smaller space than it originally The compression is most effectual when the occupied.
cop has been boiled, but
weft
is

this

can only be done

state.

when

the

to

be inserted
also

in a

wet

Machines have
a

been

lately constructed for

winding

number

of pirns at the same time.

The
is

principle is
for

entirely the

same with that of the machine

winding
shape

the

warp bobbins.

The

only difference

in the

of the traverse, which must be constructed to wind the

yarn in the form of a cone, instead of being

shaped.

flat

or barrel

Those which
I

have seen are turned by the

is

hand, which

cannot think

proper, for the same reason

all

which

I stated before;

namely, that in

these machines,

the person

who

attends ought to have both hands free,

at liberty to shift

and should be

from one part of the

machine to another,
broken threads.
I

to

remove obstructions, and knot

are,

do not think that these machines

as yet, very generally

employed, and, perhaps, they have

not yet reached such a state of improvement, as to render

the use of them an object of

much

importance, in point

of economy-

SSAY
ON THE

VII.

MANUFACTURING OF CLOTH.

TJ AVING
.

concluded our account of the operative

J- *

processes and

modes of economy, connected with

it

the Art of

Weaving,

only remains in this Essay to dis-

cuss the subjects

which form more properly. the province

great extension of the business in

of the manufacturer, or foreman, than of the operative

tradesman.

The

mo=

dern times, and the competition naturally arising from

this,

have, of late, attracted the attention of most

manu-

facturers,

more

to the mercantile than the operative part

of the profession.
business
is

Any

investigation of this part of the

evidently foreign to the plan of this work, and

this part of
it,

would render

rather an Essay

upon com-

merce, than upon any branch of the Art of Weaving.

Much

of the business of the person

who

superintends

the manufacturing department, has been discussed in the

preceding Essays ^ for a thorough knowledge of the operative part of the business is essentially necessary, to enable

him

to-

conduct that department with propriety.

There

only remain, therefore,

two points

to

be investigated.

286
The
first,
is

ESSAY

VII.

the selection of proper yarn, to form the

t,

fabric required

the second, the calculations necessary to

ascertain the prime cost of the goods, as a direction to

the salesman.

very essential part of the business of a skilful

is,

manu-

facturer

to adapt the fineness of the

warp which he

uses to the reed, so as to produce the fabric of cloth re^

quired, whether light or heavy.

This

is

called

CAAMING, OR SLEYINGf.

Little

has been done to reduce this to any regular

system, and, hitherto, the rules generally laid

down

are

nothing else than the results of observation and experience.

For

this reason,

the tables for

caaming almost

every species of cloth, are almost as various as the manufacturers

who

use them \ and scarce any two people agree

upon

this

subject.

That

this is a great

desideratum in

the theory of weaving, will be readily admitted, and that

it

may be reduced
to doubt.

to geometrical precision, there

seems

no room

The
its

only attempt which

have ever seen, to analize

geometrically the construction of yarn, and, consequently,

application to the manufacture of cloth,
is

contained

in a small tract, printed

by Robert Urie, Glasgow, 1759,

and

entitled,

"

An

Essay on the construction of Sleying

Tables, by a Manufacturer."

An uncommon
has

portion of ingenuity, and considerable

is

mathematical knowledge

displayed in this work.

It

now become

so scarce, that I have only

met with one

printed copy, considerably mutilated-, but, having been

favoured with the perusal of the original manuscript, by

t

a gentleman of

Glasgow, related to the Author,

shall

MANUFACTURING.
the principles

287

endeavour to give a short account of his method, and of

upon which

his calculations are founded.

In the

first

place, the author considers every thread as

a cylinder, and, of course, justly infers, that supposing the

density of every thread to
in
it

be equal, the matter contained

would be

as the

square of the diameter multiplied

into the length.

He

also concludes, that as every thread,

in proportion to its fineness, requires

more twisting

in the

process of spinning, that, therefore, the fibres which

com-

pose the thread, will be more condensed in fine yarn than

coarse,

and

that, consequently, the

diameter of a fine

thread will be less than that of a coarse one, in proportion to

its

weight.

He

further assumes, that the base of one thread being

to the base of another, as the squares of their diameters,

and the circumgyrations by which the twine

directly as their diameters; that the ratio of

is

produced,

one thread to

another will be, as the cube of each diameter, or, which

is

the

same thing,

as the

square multiplied

into

the

diameter.

The
words.

following extract from this curious

little

tract,

will serve to

convey the author's opinions in his own

"
<{
*c

RIGHTLY CONSTRUCTED SLEYING-TABLE

IS

'A

scheme which exhibits the proper reeds

for disposing

warp-yarns, of every given degree of fineness, in such

a

manner, that (due regard being had to the quality,

P and insertion of the weft) all the cloths, produced from " those different warps, shall be exactly similar in fabric
ic

or compacture."
c

In order to compose such a scheme for any one specie?

of cloths, the following data are previously requisite.

288
<

ESSAY
The number
which

VII.

1.

of the reed, employed in making the

is

<

cloth, the fabric of

intended for the model.

cloth.

2.
3.

The fineness of the warp-yarn of said The fineness of the warp, the reed
the

And,
is

for

which

sought.

By

number of

the reed

is

understood the number

splits

of

splits,

or rather of the intervals of the

contained

in a given

dimension ; without having any regard to the

those intervals that
:

number of

may

in fact have

been

occupied by the warp

for the reed

is

precisely the scale

is

by which the distance between the threads of the warp

regulated; and
it

equally affects the fabric of the cloth,

a yard, or

whether the breadth of the cloth be

s

an inch.

The comparative fineness of any two parcels of yarn may be ascertained by the number of threads, of a determinate length, contained in a given weight of the one,

compared with the number of threads of the same length,

contained in the same weight of the other; due regard

being always had to the degree of compression which the

mass of each receives

cels of equal weight,

in the spinning.

For,

if

two par-

but of different fineness, be Spun

from the same materials, and the degree of compression

be precisely the same; the threads in both,
like all other

cylinders of equal solidity, will reciprocate their bases

and altitudes
is

in proportion as the base of the

z.

one thread

diminished,

e.

as

it

becomes
i.

finer
it

than the other;

the altitude will be increased,

e.

will

become longer

than the other: and

if

the threads of both parcels be

wound up

in convolutions of equal circumference, there

will be a greater

number of those convolutions

in the

one parcel than in the other,

is
.

in proportion as the

one

finer than ,the other:

and the two bases will be to

lengths

each other inverselv as the

of the

threads..

MANUFACTURING.
*

289

Thus,
be
a,

if

the

number of convolutions
in the finer

in the coarser parcel

b;

<

and the number

be

the base of the

:

coarser will be to the base of the finer, b

<

a ; or,

~ f
:

But the parcel

that has the greater

number of convo-

lutions,

in a given weight,

will have its thread more

*
<
*

compressed by the action of the spinning-wheel, than

the parcel which has the less

number

in the

same weight.
little.

How
i

this

comes about

falls to

be explained a

Every country-girl knows,

that, in

making yarns,

for

*
* * *

like purposes,

and from the same materials, her wheel

in spinning a finer thread

must be oftener turned round

of a given length, suppose a yard of the parcel b 9 than

in spinning a coarser thread of the

same length, suppose

is

a yard of the parcel a.

The

reason

this: all

yarns
to

*
g

that are spun

like

from the same materials, and destined

purposes in manufacture,

how

different soever they

may be with

respect to fineness, ought to be equally hard)

is

or equally slack in the twine: that

to say, the fibres,

to

i *

which compose

their surfaces,

ought
as the

be twisted to the

same degree of tension.

Now,

two threads of the

from the

parcels a and b are supposed to have been spun

*
6

same materials;

if

they are likewise supposed to be de~

so to be twisted,

signed for similar purposes, they ought

as that the superficial fibres of
tense;

both

may become

equally

*
*
*

these of the one, with those of the other.

But

the periphery of the base of the finer thread being less

than the periphery of the base of the coarser; the superficial fibres of the finer will

*
*

be less stretched by a
the superficial

given

number of circumgyrations than

fibres of the coarser thread will

be by the same number:

*
*

and in order to give the same degree of tension to the

superficial fibres of the finer thread
perficial fibres of the coarser; the

with that of the su

of circumgy-

number

290
4

ESSAY

VII,

rations

must be increased, by how much the periphery

is

of the base of the finer

less

than the periphery of the

base of the coarser.

4

However, though the

superficial fibres of the finer

thread, in receiving the

same degree of tension with

those of the coarser, require a greater

number of

cir-

cumgyrations; that greater number will be effected by

a less force

than what

is

needful to produce the less

num=

ber which the coarser thread requires.

In other words,

the superficial fibres of the finer thread, taken together,

will be stretched to any given degree,

by

a less force

than

what

is

needful to stretch the superficial fibres of the

coarser thread, taken together, to the same degree.

For

the superficial fibres of the two threads are evidently as

the surfaces of the

two threads: and

in order to give

thern the same degree of tension, the forces applied t&

them ought

to be in the

same

ratio.

Now,
its

as the

tw

threads are of the

same length, and the base of

the finer

thread less than the base of the coarser,

periphery,

and therefore

its

surface, will be less than that of the

its

coarser; and the force, required to give

fibres the

superficial

same degree of tension with those of the

less.

coarser will likewise be

Thus

the

two threads

being of the same length, their surfaces> omitting the

bases, will be as the peripheries of their bases; .and the

peripheries of their bases are as the diameters of their

bases;

and their bases are

as the squares of their dia-

meters: therefore, the surfaces of the two threads will

be

as the square roots of their bases.

But

their bases

are to each other,

upon the supposition of an equal

their surfaces will then be,
to be,

compression,-^
forces

:;

and the
:

employed against them ought

-^,

V % Vj

-:

and

f is less than as has been said,,

as

the

Vf

will be less than the

V\*

MANUFACTURING.
4

291

But although the force applied

be

to the surface of the

finer thread, in the spinning,

less

than what

is

applied

to the surface

of the coarser; the finer will be more comcoarser.

* pressed than tbi

*

For while the compressing

forces diminish and increase in the ratio of the surfaces

4
4

of the threads,
their bases,

i.

e.

in the ratio of the peripheries

ratio

of

and,

consequently, in the

of their

diameters; the masses of the threads diminish and increase in the ratio of their bases,
i.

e.

in the duplicate ratio

is

*
4

of their diameters: the force, then, which

applied to

the surface of the liner thread, though less than

what

is

* 4
4

applied to the surface of the coarser, will bear a greater

proportion to the mass upon which

force

it

acts,

than the

which

acts

upon the coarser bears

to the

mass of
sub-

*
* 4 4

the coarser.

The

finer thread, therefore,

being

jected to a force proportionally greater than that

affects the coarser thread, will

which

be more

strongly compressed
less

than the coarser,

bulky,
i.

and become more dense, and

'

e.

finer,

by how much

its

mass

is is

more
em-?

diminished than the compressing force which

ployed against
4

it.

It

appears, then, that

two things

are to be regarded

4
4

in ascertaining the comparative fineness of a yard of the

parcel a y and a yard of the parcel b; the mass of each,

and the force applied to the surface of each,

ning.

in the spin-

As

the threads are of equal lengths, their masses

will be as their bases;

and the forces applied to them

are as the peripheries of their bases, or as the diameters

of their bases respectively: the

fore,
ratios

two threads

will, there-

be to each other
of these two,
apart,

in a ratio

compounded of the
bases

Thus
fr\

their

being,

forces

equal or

and the forces,

Vf
:

Vf;

the

coarser thread will be to the finer,

^Vf

f;Vf*

292
4

ESSAY

VII.
to be dis-

These things being premised, the question

is

cussed
a given

simply

this:

If yarn, the

number of which
its

in

weight

is a,

and, consequently,

fineness Vf,
reed,,

be properly sleyed, for any one sort ofcloth, in a

the

number of which upon

a given

dimension

is r;

in

what reed, of the same dimension, ought yarn

sleyed, for cloth of the

to

be

same
is
b->

fabric,

the

number of

which, in the same weight,

4

and

its

fineness

fVf*
by one

Here, for the present,

let

it is

be admitted, that the

j-/^,
is

yarn, the fineness of

which

sleyed

thread only in each interval of the reed c\ and that the

yarn, the fineness of which
is

*
4

f*/f,

is

to be sleyed in

the same manner: and

let it

further be allowed that the

intervals of the reed c are so exactly

commensurate to

the threads aV'a* tnat eacn thread

sides

is

touched upon both

by

its

neighbouring

splits,

without being pressed

its

by them, and thereby deprived of

cylindrical form,

These things granted, each

interval of the reed e will

be equal to the diameter of the circular base of the

cylindrical thread contained in
it.

Now,
one

as circles are
vice-

to each other as the squares of their diameters; so,

versa, the square of the diameter of

circle will

be

to the square of the diameter of another circle, as the

one

circle

is

to the other.
are,

But the

circular bases of the

interval of
c>

two threads
is

^\/j :f\/', and an

or f %

equal to the diameter of a thread

-jjy'jj

therefore, the

square of f* will be to the square of an interval of the

*
c

'

Here

it is
is

presumed* that the thickness of each of the

splits, in

the

one reed,
the
*

to the thickness of each of those, in the other, inversely a&

splits, in

number of

the one, to the

is

number

of those in the other.

The

strictest

regard

due to

this proportion in

making reeds

for the

same

sorts of cloth,; as otherwise, the best scheme of sleying, that call

be devised, will, in

many

instances, be rendered impracticable,

MANUFACTURING.

293
it

reed sought,
ternate

^^f
a

j,\/*

Or, to express

in the al-

way,

'

'

'

Each

interval, then, of the reed

x will be equal to the

diameter of a thread %*/f in the same manner that an

interval of c
is

equal to the diameter of a thread a >s/%.

is

And

if it

should be supposed, that an interval of c

to two,
it

commensurate

three, four, or

any given num-

ber of threads a \/j:\

will follow, that an interval of

x will be equally commensurate to the same number of

threads j\Zf.
6

And

if

an interval of

r,

equal to the diameters of a

given

number of

threads \i^ , have only a part of that

it
;

number

sleyed into

and an interval of x y equal to

the diameters of the same the like part of that

number of threads %\/f , have number sleyed in it*, the empty

to the other:

space in the interval c will be to that of the interval x,

as the

one interval

is

and the occupied

space in the one will be to the occupied space in the

other, in the
interval

same

ratio:

and the empty space in the

x will be to the thread, or threads, contained in

that interval, as the

empty space
it.

in the interval c

is

to

what
c

is

contained in
if

In like manner,

there be sleyed into an interval of

-J;

c a greater

number

of threads f \/

than that interval

is

equal to the diameters of j and an equal

threads

number of
of x\
the

f\/f be sleyed into an

x 3 as the one interval

interval

threads in the interval cy will be to the threads in the

interval
is

to the other:

and the

excess in the one will be to the excess in the other in

the

same

ratio:

and the excess

in the interval c, will

be

to the threads in the interval

terval

c,

as the excess in the in^

is

to the threads in the interval x.

294

ESSAY
if

VII.

Hence,

yarn */f be high-sleyed, or thick-set in the

reed c\ the yarn f\/f will be so likewise in the reed x:

if

<
1

the former be low-sleyed, or thin-set; so will the latuniversally, whatever the fabric of the cloth

ter: and,

<

made from
upon the

the one
be*,

is,

such will the fabric of that made

from the other

so far as the fabric of cloth depends

its

sleying of

warp.
obtains here, in

The method, however, which

at the

Scotis

f
*

land, of coming
weight; but by

comparative fineness of yarns,

not by taking the number of convolutions in a given

what amounts

to the

same thing

the

weight of a given number of convolutions.

a spyndle, which, in this country,
is

For instance

the highest

denom-

ination of yarn, contains

5760 convolutions of two yards

or, to use the

and an half in circumference;

phrase,

common
it

5760

threads, ten quarters of a yard in length.

Now,

if

a spyndle

weighs

a pound*,

to say that

does

so, is, in effect, the

same

as saying that there are

if

5760

threads in a pound.

Again,

another spyndle weighs

a quarter of a pound; with respect to this second, to say that a spyndle

that a
is

equal to a quarter of a pound; or

pound contains four times the number of threads

it

of this yarn that

does of the former, comes to the

it

same thing.

And, no doubt,

is

much

easier in as-

sorting any considerable quantity of yarn, to

weigh

it

by
the

half, or

even by quarter, spyndles; and then to class

parcels
it

different

according
first to

to

their

respective

weights
into
c

than

would be,

divide the quantity

pounds; and then-

sit

down, and count the num-

ber of threads in each pound; and after that-r-to range

*
c

This supposes that every spyndle has

its

full tale:

and, indeed,

partly
is little

owing

to wise regulations, and partly to national honesty, there

ground of complaint here.

MANUFACTURING.

295
threads

the several parcels according to the

in the

number of
method

pound.

But then,

this easier

varies the

|f

<

state of the terms, as well as the

terms themselves, in
of yarns ; and,

jf

ascertaining the comparative fineness

consequently, varies the operation in finding the value

of x.
For, as in any two yarns, that are Spun from the
materials, the
is

f.

same

number of

threads in a given weight,

in the

of the one,

to the

number of threads

same weight,

<

of the other, inversely as the bases of the threads, abstract

*
*

from

their compression; so the

is

weight of

a given

number, of the one,

to the

weight of the same number

of threads, of the other, directly as their bases.

evident from the example just

This

is

jf

now

given: there

it is

f
<

seen that a pound contains four times the

the finer yarn that
it

number of

does of the coarser; at the same

is

f
4

time, a spyndle of the coarser

four times the weight

of a spyndle of the finer.

And,

in every case, as threads

of the same length and density have their masses in the

ratio' of their

bases; so,

contra, their bases will

be in

the ratio of their masses.

are spun

Now,

as the

two spyndles
masses will be

from the same materials;

and

their

as their weights:

as they are of the

same length,
i.

their bases will be in the ratio of their masses,

e.

in

the ratio of their weights: and as the compressing force,

applied, in the spinning, to the surfaces of threads, of

the

same length,

is

in the ratio of the square root of the

is

mass; and the mass

as the

weight; the two spyndles

will be to each other directly as their weights into the

square roots of their respective weights.

Thus,

if

the

weight of a spyndle of yarn be d9 the number of which

in a
e9

pound

is

a; and the weight of another spyndle be

in a

the

number of which
two

pound

is

b;

the compara-

tive fineness of the

is

equally ascertained by saying ?

296
t e

ESSAY
is

VII.

that the coarser

to the finer,

d\/d

e/e\ or,

f\/f

f\/fthe

In either case, the value of x will turn out to be

same

whether
when

the question be stated, inversely , as

the numbers ; or directly, as the weights.'

At

the time

this extract

was written,

all

the yarn or

manufactured into cloth was spun by the

distaff,

com-

mon

spinning wheel.

For

this reason,

the

ingenious

author had not the same opportunities, which

now

exist,

of calculating with accuracy the ratio of twine which

every size or grist of yarn required; nor the effect of that

twine upon the thread, considered as a cylinder.

The
is

mule jenny, from the nature of

culated for this computation j

its

operation,

is

well cal-

for as a given length

it

spun

at

every draught of the mule,

becomes very easy

to ascertain with great accuracy the average twine

which

every
in

number

requires in that length, and, consequently,

any other length.

If the principle, that the increase of twine necessary

for fine yarn above coarse,

by compressing the

stuff

more,

diminishes the thickness or diameter of the thread be correct, the

whole of the subsequent reasoning must be

strictly

al-

lowed

to be

mathematical,

and the deduction

perfectly conclusive.

But there seems

just reason to doubt the accuracy of

this part of his hypothesis,

because he appears to have

entirely overlooked an effect of the operation of spinning

upon the yarn, very important

lation.

to

be taken into the calcuis

When

any kind of material

all

prepared for spin-

ning, the fibres are

placed parallel to each other, and

the subsequent operation of twisting gives

them the cothat the

hesion necessary to give the thread a proper degree of

strength and solidity.
fibres,

The

natural effect of this

is,

by the twining, deviate from

a straight line into

MANUFACTURING.
that of a spiral or screw;
terials

297

and the same quantity of ma-

when

twined, become considerably shorter than

before.

In spinning cotton yarn upon the mule, the

carriage, after being

drawn out

to its full length, evidently

recedes again towards the rollers, as the twine increases;

and when the

stuff

is

not equal, the coarse threads always

begin to break, before the fine ones are sufficiently twined.

In the twisting of ropes, where the diameter
this effect
is still

is

great,

more

perceptible.

From

this the natural

inference seems to be, that the increase of twine diminishes the length, not the diameter of the thread.

No
the

allowance whatever

is

made

for the

shrinking

in
is

length by our Author's hypothesis, but the whole

sup-

posed to
case.

affect the diameter,

which

is

evidently not the

But

it

may be

supposed,

that as the twine increases

some diminution may take

in the diameter;

place, both in the length

and

and

it

becomes necessary to ascertain

and
if so,

whether

this is really the case,

what

ratio these

bear to each other, before a correct rule for caaming or

sleying can be found.

To
now

ascertain these points, I

made
him

different inquiries,
I shall

calculations,

and experiments, the results of which

to decide,

lay before the reader, leaving

whether
is satis-

the conclusion
factory or not.

which

have drawn from them

It is perfectly impossible,

by any known instrument,

fine

to

measure the actual diameter of

yarn with any

degree of accuracy, but a rope of considerable diameter

may
the

easily

be measured; and as

it

seemed probable

that

same
first

ratio

might

exist in coarse spinning, as in fine,

my

inquiries

were directed

to this

branch of spin-

ning.

The form which

the strands of a rope assume,

^98
when
screw.
twisted,
I,
is

ESSAY

VII.

exactly similar to that of a

common
Most
marked

therefore, first endeavoured to

compare the

one with the other,

and observe the

effect.

mechanics know the way in which the

spiral is

on a wooden or iron screw, before

it

is

cut, 'by drawing

a succession of right angled triangles

upon

a piece of

paper, equal in length to the circumference of the cylin-

der upon which the screw

is

to

be cut.

This piece of

paper

is

afterwards pasted round the cylinder,

when

the

hypothenuses of the triangles form the

spiral lines.

Upon
mav be

the same principle, the circumference of a rope

considered as the base of a triangle; the distance between

the parts of the same strand, after one whole revolution,
as the perpendicular-,

and the

spiral

described by the

strand in revolving, as the hypothenuse.

Now

as the

rope shortens as the twine increases, the strands will be

forced nearer to each other.

Consequently, the perpen-

dicular will decrease in length, and the angle at the base

will

become more

acute.
is,

The
laid

report of practical ropemakers

that a shroud

rope shortens one third in the twisting.

Let us,

therefore, suppose, that

when

the strands are laid, before

is

twining, the circumference, or base line,

three inches,

and the perpendicular the same.

When

the rope has

been fully twined, the perpendicular will be only two

inches, and
if

the diameter of the rope has continued the

still

same, the base will

be three inches.

Now, by

a very

simple operation in right angled trigonometry, the angle

at the base,

forming the obliquity of the

spiral, will

be

33 42
will be
infer,

which, by inspecting the

common
From

run of ropes,
this

found very nearly the

case.

we may

that the,

whole contraction and compression has

been in the length, and that the diameter has undergone

MANUFACTURING.
no diminution.

299

Next, as every thread, when twisting,

it

appears to shorten in proportion to the twine which

receives,
it

seemed expedient

to inquire

what

ratio the

twine of different numbers of cotton yarn bear to each

other,

and how

far this coincided, or differed

from that

of the effect which the Author of the extract just quoted

supposes twining to produce, in diminishing the diameter.

Upon

applying to several extensive spinners,

found

their answers, in general, to be, that the

twine required

for different

numbers was

as the square roots of the

numbers.

One

of these answers, given to

Mill, I shall quote.

me by Mr.

Dunlop of Barrowfield

The number
given, say No.

of twists upon an inch of yarn being

70 =24.

To

find the proper twist for

No. 60, the proportion

will be

V70
The number

24

V60

22.2

of twists for every inch of the following

is

numbers of yarn,
No. 50
60
70

20.2 22.2
24.

80

25.6 27.2

90
100

28.6

From
is

the above,

it

will appear, that the ratio of twine

exactly the

same

as the

Author assumed

that of dimin^

ution to be, or directly as the diameter of the cylinder,

which

is,

therefore, the square root of the

number.

This seems a second proof, that the whole compressing

power of the twine

I

is

exerted upon the length.

next tried the following practical experiment: Hav-

ing bored a very smooth hole, of an inch diameter, in a

piece of hard wood,

pieces

passed through

it

number of

of soft smooth twine about 30 feet long.

When

300
the twine

ESSAY

VII.

was stretched without being twisted, the board

shifted with little difficulty

could be

along them.

then twisted them, and found the length to decrease

sensibly as the twine increased, but

upon the diameter

could perceive no difference.

When

pretty hard twined,

indeed, from the oblique form which the strands had as-

sumed,
fore-,

it

was more
this

difficult

to shift the board than be-

but

appeared to

rise

more from

friction,

than

any increase of diameter-, diminution there was certainly

none.

From

these different

trials,

it

seems to

result, that the

shortening of any thread or rope, proceeds from the fibres

or strands of
tion

which

it is

composed changing

their direc-

from

a longitudinal to an oblique or spiral position;

is

and that no further compression

is

produced than what

necessary to bring them

all

into close contact.

fibres

Were
yield

more compression produced than the

to, the

would

diameter

must increase instead of diminishing,

becomes
less,

for, as at every twist, the length, or altitude,

the stuff,

when no longer susceptible of

But so great
so far
this,

compression, must

swell in thickness.

a quantity of twine as

would
yarn,

effect

from being of any service to

injurious. to believe, that the
is

would be extremely

These considerations induce me

fibres of every

kind of material from which yarn

spun,
that,

undergo nearly an equal degree of compression, and

therefore, the diameters
solid cylinders.

may be

estimated as those of other

The

general rule which has been adopt-

ed seems, on this account, to be the best for practical use*

This

is,

that the square roots of the

to

numbers
wrought

are as the

measure of the reeds,

example,
if

produce similar
is

fabrics.

For

No* 40

of cotton yarn

in a

1200

MANUFACTURING.
reed,
in

301

and

it is

necessary to

work

cloth of a similar fabric

one of 1600, the proportion will be

12
:

V40

16

V71.1
re-

The

fraction

may be thrown away, and the number

is

quired will be 71. But as the extraction of roots by com-

mon
same

arithmetic,
effect will

tedious,

and not generally known, the

be produced by squaring the reeds.

The

operation will then stand thus,

12

2 12 or 12

= 144 and 16 X 16, or 16

144
:

=256, therefore,

40

256

71.1

The
quoted,

difference
is,

between
is

this plan

and that of the essay

that this

as the squares, the other as the

cubes of the diameters.

No

precise definition has ever

been given of what

really is similarity of fabric in cloth.

Both of the preceding plans, are formed upon the idea

that the

diameter of the threads of warp should be in

is,

proportion to the measure of the reed; and this

haps, the best
that

per-

way

of fixing the standard.

If
it

we

suppose

every thread touches the one next to

in a coarse

fabric,

and upon that supposition calculate what will proeffect in a fine

duce the same

it

web, we

will naturally call

it

a similar fabric.

To

a certain degree,

will be so; but

when we

consider cloth as a solid, although the threads

of the fine

web should be
in

placed as

much

in

contact as

those of the coarse, the thickness of the cloth will be

diminished
diameters.
ness,

the

arithmetical
I

ratio of the

respective
thickis

In this case,

do not mean by the word

the crowding together of

warp and weft, which

the sense in
the distance
jcloth.

which

it

is

generally used by weavers; but

from the under to the upper superficies of the

the whole,

Upon

by

far too

little

attention has

302
been paid to reduce

ESSAY

VII.

this part of the business of fabricatIt

is

ing cloth to any regular system.

to have

certainly proper
this every

some

fixed standard, and

deviate,

from

manu-

facturer

may

according to the fashion of the

times, or the taste of his customers.

We
this
is
it

come now
will not

to the last part of this

work, and upon

into detail.

be necessary to go

much

This
-&

to consider the arithmetical part of the business of

It is the

manufacturer.

only part of the business which

has been introduced into books, forrnerly written on the

subject of weaving, and
enlarge
it is,

therefore, less necessary to

tables

upon

it.

For practical purposes, a few

I shall

may

be useful, which

add in a miscellaneous way, with

such remarks as

may seem necessary.

COMPUTATION OF LINEN YARN,

The

circumference of the

reel, for linen yarn, is fixed*

by the Act of Parliament,

at

90 inches, or 2| yardsa
and the quantities of

Once round

this is called a thread,

yarn are measured as follows:

1

thread

120

= threads =

cut

2 cuts
3 heers

=1

heer
slip

= = =
==

OL yards
41-2.

300

do. do.
do.

600
1800

slips

2 hanks
2 hesps
In

=1 =1 =1

hank
hesp

= =

3600

do.
do.

7200

spyndle= 14400

do.

general, however,

the calculations are

made by

spyndles, heers, cuts, and threads, the intermediate divisions being omitted.
stated, is rated

The

length of warps, as formerly

mill ells of

by the number of English, or

forty-five inches, or five quarters each.

MANUFACTURING.
There
are

303
warp of webs
in porells.

two ways of

calculating the

necessary.
1st,

Given the quantity of warp and breadth

the length which will be produced in

ters, to find

For

this, the

common

practical rule

is,

multiply the

spyndles by 288, and divide the product by the

number

of porters*, the quotient

is

the answer.

One example

will be sufficient.
to

Given 34 spyndles of yarn,

warp

web

72 porters broad.

Required the length

in ells.

288X34 = 10192
Thus
This rule
iind
it

and 10192
is

*r

72

= 141^

ells,

the answer
is

141

ells

and 20 inches.

chiefly useful to

customer weavers,

who

necessary to accommodate the length of their webs,

to the quantity of

warp which they

ells,

receive.
in porters, to

2d, Given the length in

find the

and breadth

warp
is

required.
exactly the converse of the former; namely,

This rule
multiply the

ells

by the

porters,

and divide by 288.

Given 100

ells

56 porters wide.

Required the quantity of warp.

100x56=5600

and 5600

-r

288= 19444,
1

or

19 spyndles,. 11 heers, and

cut.

This

is

chiefly

used in extensive manufactories, where

they have large quantities of warp, and

make

their

webs

uniform lengths for the sake of regularity.

The following Table is calculated upon these principles, and may be useful to save calculation in common practice.

On

the top, are the lengths in ells; and in the

first

column, the porters in the breadth.

The remaining

304

ESSAY

VII.

columns, contain the quantity required for each of the respective lengths at the top.
as the limits of the
It is

made

as

comprehensive

work

will admit.

Other lengths may

be found, by adding two or more of those given to make

the

number

required.

For instance,

if

Y5

ells

are re-

quired, take 50, and the half of 50; or take 50, 10 twice,

and

5,

and so of others.

It

may,

in

some

cases,

be

shorter, to subtract
ells;

one length from another.

Suppose 95

5 subtracted from 100, will give the answer.

it

Both the calculations and the Table,

and number of yards

is

to

be rereel*

marked, are computed exactly to the length of the

in the spyndle, without

any allow-

ance for waste, breakage, short measure, or count.

as this can never

But

be expected,

it

is

customary to allow

one heer, to every spyndle, for these deficiences, and even

this

allowance

is

often found too

little.

TABLE OF WARPS.

306

ESSAY

VII.

TABLE OF
C/3
1

ELLS.

<D

S-i

].

2
c.
1 1 1 1
1 1

3
C.

4
C.
1 1

s.

H.
1

T.

s.

H.
3

T.

s.

H.

T.

s.

H. C. T.

18

19

1
1 1

20
40 60
80
100

3 3
3
1

40 80

4
5 5

60

6
6
1

80

20
21

40

60
1
1

7 7

22
23

1
1

3 3

1
1

40
80

5
5

80
1

60

40

24
25

2
2

20
40 60
80
100
1
1 1

40
80
1 1

6
6 6
1 1

60

8 8
1

80

26
27

2
2

4
4 4 4
5

40

60

28
29

2
2 2

40
80

80
1

7 7
1 1

60

40

30
31

10

2
2 2

20
40

40
80
1
1

7
8

60

10
10
1

80

32
33

5 5 5
5

40

1
1 1

60
80
100

60 o 11
1 1

34 35

2 2
3 3 3

40
80

8
8

11

80
1

60

11

40

36
37

12

20 40 60
80
100

40
80
1
1

9
9
1 1

60

12 12
1

80

38 39

6
6 6

40

3
3

60

13 13

40
41

40
80

10

80
1

10

60

13

40

MANUFACTURING.
WARPS.
ELLS.
5
S.

307

5_,

o>
in

10
C.
1
1

50

100

H.

T.
C
1

s.

H.

C.

T
8C

S.

H.

C.

T
C

S.

H.

C.

T.

18

15 15
1

C>
>

3 7
11

19

7
8
8

IOC

3
3 3

4C
80
1
1 1

6 14 6 22
7
1

80

20
21

80
1

16
17 18
19

1 1

4C
C

>

40

60

>

15

22
23

9
9
1

40 20

80

3 19

40 7 15
80 7 23
8
8
1

80

40 3 23
4
1 1 1

40

24 25 26

10
10 10
11
1

20
100

4
8

20
21

80 4

40 8 16
80 9
1
1 1

80 40

80

40 4 12
4 16

27
28

60
1

22
23
1 1
1

11

40 20

80 4 20

40 9 17
80 10
1
1

80

29
30
31

12

40 5
5
1

40
80

12
12
13 13

1 1

5 9

10 10

100

80 5

40 10 18
80 11
1

32 33

80
1

1 1

2
3

1
1

40 5 13
5 17

2
11

40

60

11

34 35 36
37

14
14 15 15 15 16
1

40
1

1
1

4
5

80 5 21

1 1

4011 19
80 12
3
1

80

20

40 6
6
1
1

40

6
6 7
8

12 12

100

80 6 10

40 12 20 80 13
1 1 1

80
1

38 39

80

1
1

40 6 14
6 18

4
13

40

60
1

13

40
41

16
17

40 20

1 1

80 6 22

40

13 21

80
1

10

40 7

80 14

40

308

ESSAY

VII.

TABLE OF
Ui
S-i

ELLS.
3

<u

O
P*
s.

H.

C.
1 1 1 1 1 1

T.

s.

H.

C.

T.

s.

H.

C.
1
1

T.

s.

H.

C.

T.

42 43 44

3 3 3 3
3 3

10

14

20 40 60
80

7
7 7 7 7 8
1
1

40
80

10
11
11

60

14
14
1

80
40

45
46 47
4'8

60
1

15 15

40 80

11

80
1

100

11

60

15
16

40
80

4 4 4
4 4

12

49
50
51

20
40 60
80
100
1 1

8
8 8

40
80

12

60
1
'1

16
16
1

12
12 13 13

40

10
1
1

60

17 17

52
53

8
8

40
80

80
1

4 4 4
4 4

60
1

17
18

40

54

13

55
56

20

9
9

40
80
1
1

13

60

18 18
1

80

1
1

40
60
80
100

14

40

57

14

60
1
1

19

58
59

4
4
5 5
5

40 80

14 14 15

19

80
1

9
10

60

19

40

60
61

20
60
1

20

10 10
10
1 1

40
80

15
15

20
20
1

80

62
63

40
60 80
100

40
0'

15

60

21
21

64

5
5

10
10

40
80

16 16

80
1

65

60

21

40

MANUFACTURING.
WARPS,
CO
3~
1

309

ELLS.
5
s.

<u

5-i

10
c.
1

50
T.
s.

100
T.
s.

H.

T.

s.

H.
11

C.

H.
7

c.

H. C. T.

42 43

17 17
0.
0.

7
1
1

14 14

100

1
1

11

80 7 11

40 14 22
80 15
1

80
1

44

18
18
1

80

12
13

40 7 15
7 19

40

45 46
47

60 40

15 15

o 19
19
1

1 1
1

14 15

80 7 23

1
1

40 15 23
80 16
7
1

80

20

40 8
8
1 1 1

3 8

40

48
49

20 20 20
21 21
1

16 16
17

16 16

100
1

1 1

80 8 12

40 17
80 17
1 1

80
8
1

50
51

80

40 8 16
'8

40

60

1
1

18

20

17 17

52
53

40
20

19

80 9

40 18
80 18

80
1

22
22
1

20
21

40 9
9
1

4
9

40

54
55 56 57 58
1

18 18

22 23
23

100

21

80 9 13

40 19

2
1

80

80
1

22
23

40 9 17
9 21
1

80 19 10
19

40

60

19
3
1

40 2
1
1 1

80 10
1

1 1
t)

40 20

80

59

1 1 1
1

20 2
2

40 10

80 20 11

40

60
61

2 2
3
1
1

10 10

20 20
40 21
80 21
4
12
1

100 2
1

80 10 14

80

62 63

80 2

40 10 18
10 22
1 1
1

40
80

1 1 1

2 2
3
1

60 2
40 2

4
5

21

21
5
1

64
65

80 11

2
6

40 22

20 2

40 .11

80 22 13

40

310

ESSAY

VII.

TABLE OF
to

ELLS.
-

O
H.

2
C.
1 1

3
C.

4
C.
1
1

s.

T.

s.

H.
11

T.

s.

H.

T.

S.

H.

C.

T.

66
67 68

5
5

16

22 60 22
22 60 23
23
1

20 40 60
80
100

11
11

40
80
1

16

80

5
5
5

17
17

40
80

69

1 1
1

11
11 11

70
71

1 1

40
80

17

1 1

17 18

60

23

40
80

72
73

6 6

12

10
60
1
1 1 1 1

20

12

40
80
1 1

18

74
75 76

6
6 6

40
60
80
100
1
1

12
12

18 18

40

60

110
1

12 12
13

40
80

19 19 19
1 1

1 1
1

80

77
78

6 6 6 6

60

40

12
60
1 1

79

20
40 60
80
100

13 13 13
1 1 1

40
80

19

2 2
1

80

80
81

20

40

6
6 6
7 7
7

1 1 1

20
40
80

60
1

13
1

82 83

13 13 14

20 20
21

80
1

60

40

84
85

14
60
1

20 40
60 80
0.

14

40
80
1
1

21
21

1
1

4
4
1

80

86
87

14
14

40

21

60

15
1

88 89

7
7

14
14

40
80

22 22

80
1

100

60

40

MANUFACTURING,

311

WARPS,
o5
<D

ELLS.

U o

5
s.

10
c. 1
1

50
s.

100
T.
s.

H.
3 3

T.

s.

H. c. T. 7

H.
11

c.

H.

C.

T.

66
61

1 1 1
1

11
1 1 1

22 22 40 23
6
1

100 2
80 2

7
8

80 11 15

80

68 69 70
71

40 11 19
11

80 23 14
1
1

40

4
5
5

60 2

23
3 7

23 23

1 1

40 2 10
1

80 12

40 24

7
1

80

20 2 11
2 12

40 12

80 24 15

40

72
73

1
1 1

6 6 6 7
7
8 8 8
1 1

12 12
1 1 1

25

100 2 12
1

80 12 16

40 25

8
1

80
40

74
75

80 2 13 60 2 14

40 12 20
13
1

80 25 16 26
1

1
1
1

76
77 78

40 2 15

80 13

4
8

1 1

40 26

9
1

80

20 2 16
2 17

40 13

80 26 17

40

1 1

13 13
1
1

27

79 80
81

100 2 17

80 13 17

40 27 10
80 27 18
1
1
1

80

1 1
1

80 2 18
1

40 13 21
14
1

40

9 10 10
11
11
11

60 2 19

28

82
83

40 2 20
1

80 14

40 28 11 80 28 19 29
4
1

80

1
1

20 2 21
2 22

40 14

40

84
85

14 14
1
1

100 2 22
1

80 14 18

40 29 12
80 29 20
1
1 1

80
1

86
81 88

1
1
1

80 2 23 60 3

40 14 22
15

40

12

1
1

2
6

30

12
13

40 3 20

80 15

40 30 13
80 30 21
1

80

89

40 15 10

40

312

ESSAY

VII.

TABLE OF
5
-

ELLS.
1

&
%-

o
H. 7

2
C.
1 1 1

3
c.

4
C.
1 1

s.

T.

s.

H.

T.

s.

H.

T.

s.

H. C. T.

90
91

15

22
40 80
1

60
6

7
7
7

20

15 15 15

22
23
23

60

1 1

80
1

92
93 94 95 96
97

40
60
80
100

6 7
7
7 8 8 8

40
80

1
1 1

60
1

1 1

7 7
8 8

15
15

1
1

40
80
1

23 23

60

1 1

40
80

16

20
40
60 80
100
1 1

16

40
80
1

1 1
1 1

60

1
1

98
99
100
101

8 8

16
16

40

1 1
1

60

1
1

8
8
8 8

16

1
1

40
80

1
1 1

9 9
1

80

16
17

60
1

1 1

40
80

102
103

1 1

10

20

17 17
17
1
1 1

40
80

1 1
1

60

1
1

10 10
11 11 11
1 1

104
105 106 107
108 109

8 l 8 8 8
1
1

40
60
80
100

2 2 2
2
3 3 3
3
1

40

60

1 1

17
17 18

40
80

1
1 1

80

60

1 1

40
80

9 9

12 12
12
13
1

20

18 18 18
1

40
80

60

1
1

110
111

9
9

40
60
80

1 1

10
1

40

60

1 1

112
113

9 9

18
18

1
1

40
80

1
1

4 4

13

80
1

100

60

13

40

MANUFACTURING.
WARPS.
ELLS.

318

5
S.

10
c.
1 1

50
s.

100
T.
s.

H.

T.

s.

H. C. T.
3 3
1 1 1

Hi

c.

H.

C.

T.

90
91

13

15 15

31

1
1
1

13

100 3

80 15 19

40 31 14
80 31 22
1
1 1

80

92
93

14 14
15
1

80 3

4
5

40 15 23
16
3
7

40

60 3 40 3

32

94 95

1 1 1

6
7 8
8
1 1

80 16

40 32 15
80 32 23
33
8
1

80

15 16

20 3
3

40 16 11
16 16

40

96
97

1
1

16
16
1

100 3

80 16 20

40 33 16
80 34
1

80

98
99
100

80 3

40 17
17

40

1 1
1

17 17
1

60 3 10

4
8

34

40 3 11 20 3 12

80 17

1
1

40 34 17
80 35
1

80
1

101

18 18
18 19
1
1

40 17 12
17 17
1

40

102
103

3 13

35 10

1
1

100 3 13

80 17 21

40 35 18
80 36
1
1 1

80
1

104
105 106 107
108

80 3 14
1

1
1

40 18
18

40

1 1

19

60 3 15 40 3 16

36 11

20
20
21 21 21
1
1

80 18

40 36 19
80 37
3
1

80

1
1

20 3 17
3 18

40 18 13
18 18
1

40
80

37 12

109

1 1

100 3 18

80 18 22

40 37 20
80 38
1
1

110
111

80 3 19

1
1

40 19
19

2
6

40

1
1 1

22

60 3 20
1

38 13

112
113

22
23

4:

3 21

80 19 10

40 38 21
80 39
5

80

20 3 22

40 19 14

40

Rr

814

ESSAY

VII.

TABLE OF
CO
4-1
J-l

ELLS.
1

O
S.

2
C.

3
C.

4
C.

H.

T.

S.

H.

T.

S.

H.

T.

S.

H.

C.

T.

114 115 116

117

1
1

19

14 10
40
80
1

1 1

14

9
9 9 9 9

20 40
60 80
100

19 19 19
19

60

14
14
15
1

80

1
1
1

15
1

40

60

118

1 1

40
80

1510
1

1
1 1

15
15 16 16
1

80

119

19

60

40

120
121

10

20
20 40
60 80
100
1
1 1
1

16
40
80
1 1
1

10 10

20

1 1
1

60
1
1

1 1

80
1

122 123
124?

20 20 20 20
21

6
6

16
17
17

40
80

10 10
10

60

1 1

40
80

17
1

125 126 127

128

60

1
1
1

17 18

40

10

17 10
40
80
1
1 1
1

10
10 10 10
10
11 11 11

20
40

21
21

60

18
18
1

80

18
1

40

129

60
80
100

21
21

60

1 1

19

130
131

1
1

40
80

18 10
1

19
19
1

80

21

60

1
1

40

132 133

22
20 40
60
80

19
40
80
1 1 1

20 20 80
1

22 22
22

9
1

60
C
>

1 1

134
135 136
137

19

20
21 21

40

11 11 11

1
1 1

9 10
10

6C

1
1

22
1

4C
8C

c>

80
1

IOC

22

6C

21

40

MANUFACTURING.
WARPS.
ELLS.
5

315

}_4

O)
1-J

10
C.
1 1

50
s.

100
T.
s.

s.

H.

T.

s.

H. c. T.

H.

C.

H.

C.

T.

114
115
116
117

1
1

23 23

3 23

19 19
1 1

39 14

100 3 23 80 4

80 19 23

40 39 22
1
1

80
1

2 2 2 2 2 2
1 1

40 20

3
7

80 40

40

60 4 40 4

20

40 15 40 40 23 80 41
41
7
1

118
119

2
3

80 20 11

1
1

80

20 4
4

40 20 15 20 20
1
1 1

40

120
121

16

2
2
3 3
1 1

100 4
8.0

4
5

80 21

40 42
4
8
1

80
8
1

122

2
2 2 2

40 21
21

80 42

40

123

60 4
40 4 20 4
1

6
7
8

42 17

124
125

80 21 12

1
1

40 43
80 43

80
1

4 4 4
5
5
1

40 21 16
21 21
1
1 1

40

126

2 2
2

9 9

43 18

127
128

100 4

80 22

40 44

2
1

80

80 4 10

40 22
22

80 44 10
1
1

40

129

2 2
2 2

60 4 11

44 19

130
131

6 6
7
1

40 4 12
20 4 13
4 14

80 22 13

40 45

3
1

80

40 22 17 22 22
1
1

80 45 11 45 20

40

132
133 134

2
2

7
7
8
1

100 4 14

80 23

2 6
1
1
1

40 46

4
1

80

80 4 15

40 23

80 46 12

40
80

135
136
137

2
2

60 4 16
1

23 10
80 23 14

46 21

40 4 17

40 47

5
1

20 4 18

40 23 18

80 47 13

40

316

ESSx^Y VII,

TABLE OF
to

U o

ELLS,
1

2
s.

3
C.

4
s. 1

s.

H. C. T.
11
1 1

H.

T.

s.

H. C. T.

H.

C.

T.

138

23

10 10
11

22 22 22
23
1

139 140
141

11

20
40

23 23 23
1
1 1

40
80

1
1

60

1
1

80

11
11 11
11

1 1
1

40
Q

60
80
100
1

11
11
11
1
1

60

1 1

142
143

23
23

40
80

1
1 1

23
23
1

80

60

40

144
145 146
147

12
12 12 12

12 12 12
12
13
1
1

20 40 60
80
100
1 1
1 1

1
1

40

1
1 1

60 2
2

0*0 80
1 1
1 1 1

80
1
1 1

40
80

1 1

60 2
2

148 149

12

40
80

12
12
12

1
1

13 13
13
1
1

60 $
2

40

150
151

1
1 1
1 1 1 1

20

40
80

60 2
2

2
2
3
3
1

80

15% 153

o 12
12 12

40
60
80
100

1 1 1
1

1
1

14 Q

40

14 14
1

60 2
2

154
155

1
1

1 1

40
80

1
1
1

80
1

12
13 13 13

14
15

60 %
2

40

156
157

2 2
2

4 4
4
5
1

20 40
60
80

40
80
1
1

15
15
1 1

60 2
2

80 40

158
159

1 1 1 1

1 1

13
13

2
2 2

15
16 16

60 2
2

160

40
80

1
1

5 5
1

80

\m

13 o Too

60 2

40

MANUFACTURING,
WARPS.
C/5

317

ELLS.
.......

K o
(

10

50
T.
s.

100
T.
s.

So

jj.

C
1
1

T.

s.

H.

C.

H.

c.

H.

C.

T.

138
139

9 9

4 19

23 23
1

47 22

100 4 19

80 24

40 48

6
1

80

140

2 10 2 10 2 11
2 11 2 12
1
1

80 4 20 60 4 21

1 1

40 24

7
1 1
1

80 48 14 48 23

40

HI
242
143

24 11
80 24 15

40 4 22 20 4 23
5

40 49

7
1

80

40 24 19
25
1

80 49 15
50

40

144
145

2 12 2 12 2 13
2 13 2 14 2 14 2 14
1
1

100 D
1

80 25

4
8
1
1
1

40 50

8
1

80

146
147

80 O

40 25

80 50 16
51
1

40

60 5
1

2
3

25 12 80 25 16

148

40 5 20 5
5

40 51

9
1

80

149

4
5

40 25 20 26
1 1

80 51 17

40

150
151

52

2 80
1

100 5

5 6 7
8

80 26

40 52 10
80 52 18
1

152

2 15 2 15 2 16
2 16
1

80 5
1

40 26

40

153

60 5
40 5 20 5

26 13
80 26 17

53

154
}55 156
157

1
1

40 53 11
80 53 19
54
4
1

80

40 26 21 27
1

40

2 17

5 10

2
6

2 17
2 17
1

100 5 10

80 27

40 54 12
80 54 20
1 1
1

80
1

158
159

80 5 11

1
1

40 27 10
27 14
80 27 18

40

2 18
2 18 2 19
1

60 5 12 40 5 13 20 5 14

55

160
161

40 55 13
80 55 21
1

80
4C

40 97 22

318
The
founded
principle
is

ESSAY
upon
very simple, and
of a
ell,

VII.
calculations
are

which these

may be
is

very easily explained.

As

the

length

thread

90 inches, or double
in every

the length of an
split,
it

and there are two threads

is

plain that one thread will

ell

make

exactly one

splitful

of warp of one

long.

Of

course,

240

threads,

or one heer, will

make 240

splitfuls, or

12 porters of the

same length.

Or, which*
ells

is

the same thing, a heer will

If,

make one
of
ells

porter 12

long.

therefore, the

number

be multiplied by the number of porters, and the

product divided by 12, the number of heers will be found,

and these again, divided by 24, will give the spyndles.

But, 24 multiplied by 12
is

288; therefore, that

is

the

number quoted

for the divisor in the last case.

The

remainder, divided by 12, gives heers.

"When the length admits,

the operation

it

is

common
ells

to shorten
porters.

by multiplying dozens of
then 24 for spyndles.
Therefore,

by the

The

divisor

is

For example, 100

ells is

8| dozens.

X 60 100 X 60
8|

porters == 500, and

do.

500

-r

24 == 0-20, or

= 6000,

and 6000

288

= 20-20,
is

which give exactly the same

result.

A
100

very
ells.

common

length, in the muslin manufacture,

practical

Another

rule

is,

therefore,

very
it

generally used for this length.

will be found, that 3 porters of

By
100

the former rules

ells

long, contain

spyndle

heer of warp.

Therefore, divide the porters

in the quotient,

by

3,

and add one heer for each spyndle

and

in proportion for
>r
is

any fraction of a spyndle.

3 ==

For

example, 60 porters

20 spyndles,

to

which adding

20

heers, the result

as before.

MANUFACTURING.
Many
other practical rules

319
to

may be

used,

answer

particular lengths,

upon the same

principle.

When
may

warp contains what

are called

odd

splits,

they

must be calculated as

fractions of porters.

The

length
splits,

then be multiplied by the whole number of

and the quotient divided by 20, before the succeeding

operations.

The
is

size, or fineness,

of linen yarn

is

ascertained

by

the weight of one spyndle, excepting the French,

which

counted by the pinee, containing 28 heers.

COMPUTATION OF COTTON YARN.

The measure
by any

of the cotton reel has never been fixed

act of Parliament, like the linen.

The

universal

practice of the spinners, however, both in England

and

Scotland,

is

to use reels of

54 inches, or 14 yards, in
is

circumference.
1

The

account

as follows:

thread

80 threads
7 skeins

18 hanks
It will

= = =

1
1 1

skein

hank
spyndle

= = = =

1a 2 yards

120

do. do.
do.

840
15,120

be found, that the length of one spyndle of

to

cotton,

is

one spyndle of linen, exactly in the pro-

portion of 21 to 20.
therefore, been

An

allowance of 5 per cent, has,

made

in calculating the cotton reel, proit

bably for waste during the successive operations which

undergoes.

From
the

the prevalent desire of following old customs,

is
still

spyndle of cotton yarn

cuts,

almost universally
as

counted by heers,

and threads,

the

linen

-,

although both the length and divisions of the reel are

3^0
totally different.

ESSAY
By
this

VII.
is

mode, no account
is,
is

made of

the surplus 5 per cent, which

therefore, supposed to
also

be wasted.

The

following

way

adopted by some,

which
linen:

is

founded on a similar principle to that of the

18 hanks, or numbers, of cotton yarn being supis

posed equal to 24 heers of linen, the proportion

to 4.

as

The

divisor, therefore, in the

same

ratio, is
is,

taken

to be 16 instead of 12.

The

rule, therefore,

Multiply

the length by the porters and divide by 16; the quotient

wdl be hanks, or numbers, and

will give spyndles.
this

these again divided by

8,

The former example,

repeated in

way,

will stand as follows:

100

X 60

= 6000,
4

6000
18

16

375,

and 375

=20-15

The

result

is still

the same, for, in the assumed ratio of

3 to 4, 15 hanks are exactly equal to 20 heers, each being

| of a spyndle.
is left totally

Here

then, also, the surplus 5 per cent,

out of the account.

to
its

But were cotton yarn counted

linen, the account

full extent, like

would stand
:

thus:

21

20

20-15

19-16 .095238 or

As, however, there seems every reason to believe, that

this

allowance upon the cotton was merely intended to

it

counterbalance waste,
the account
entirely out.
is

appears most adviseable, whether

or heers, to leave
is
it

made by numbers

Besides, the linen reel

evidently adapted
:

to the length of the ell to avoid fractions

the cotton,

if

counted to

its full

extent,

is

by no means
is

so.

The
the

size, or fineness,

of cotton yarn

determined by

number of hanks

in

one pound, avoirdupoise weight.

MANUFACTURING.
COMPUTATION OF WOOLLEN YARN.

321

In Scotland, the coarse woollen yarn spun by the hand

has usually been reeled upon the same
in the
reel,

and counted
yarn, spun

same way
is

as the linen.

The woollen
upon
a reel

by machinery,

usually reeled

72 inches, or

2 yards

in circumference,

and the spyndle divided into

12 equal parts of 600 yards, or 2 heers, each.

The

cal-

culations for linen will, therefore, serve equally well for

woollen.

The

woollen, like the linen,

is

sized by the

weight of the spyndle.

COMPUTATION OF

SILIt.

The
China,

silk,
is

which

is

imported chiefly from Bengal and

in

never

made up

any precise or determinate

fineness.
is

length, to assist computation or ascertain the

In the preparatory processes, therefore, the only check

weighing the stuff when delivered and received.

After being warped, the warp
the quantity of

may be weighed, and

as

warp can then be

ascertained, an estimate

of

its

fineness
it

may be formed,

as in other yarn.

When

received,

is

generally assorted merely by the eye, in

three or four parcels of different fineness.

COMPARISON OF REEDS.
It has been noticed
in the 1st Essay, that the scale of

reeds in Scotland, has been ascertained by the

splits in

number of

34 inches for cambric, 37 inches for

silk,

linen, cotton,

woollen, and

and 40

incffes, for holland.

The 34

and 40 inch reeds are now completely exploded, and 37

$
s

322
versal standard.

ESSAY

VII,
ell, is

inches, being the measure of the Scotch

the uni-

In Bolton and Manchester, tne reeds are

inches-.

counted by the number of beers in 24^

These
or

beers sometimes contain 19, and sometimes 20

as they are called there, dents.

splits,

The

latter is the

most

prevalent.
in general,
1

What

is

called a beer in England, therefore,

corresponds with what the Scotch weavers

term a porter.
the

At

Stockport, the reeds are counted by

number of

endsy or threads, in an inch.

are, therefore, the

The

dents,

or splits, in
reed.

two inches

number of the

The two
The
first

following Tables, will exhibit a comparative

these.,

view of the Scotch 37 inch reed, with each of

column contains the number by which the

is

English reed

known.

The

second, the dents in one

inch in integers and decimals.

The

third, the

number of
the fourth^

dents in an English yard of 36 inches.

fifth,

And

and

sixth, the

number of

a Scotch reed of equal

splits,

fineness, in hundreds, porters,

and

COMPARATIVE

TABLES OF REEDS.

324

ESSAY

VII,

MANCHESTER

and

BOLTON

TABLE,

Dents Dents
Reed.
Inch. ;Yard.j
1

P.

s.

Reed.

Dents Dents Inch. Yard. H. P.

S.

20|16.49 593 6

54 44.53 1603 16 2
56 46.18 1662 17

22

[18.14?

653 6 3 11
1

24 19.79 712 7 26
[21.44

12

58 47.83 1722 17 3 10

771

7 4 12

60 49.48 1781 18

11

28 23.09 831 8 2 14
30 24.74 8901 9
15

62 51.13 1840 18 4 11

64 52.78 1900 19 2 13
66 54.43 1959 20
13

32 26.39 950j 9 3 16
34 28.04 1009! 10
1

17

68 56.08 2018 20 3 14 70 57.732078 21

1

36 29.69 1068! 10 4 18
38 31.34 1128jll 2 19

16

72 59.3812137 21 4 16 74 61.03;2197 22 2 18
1

40 32.98 1187112
1 t

42 34.63 124712 4

2 2
4
5 5

44 36.28 130613 2 46 37.96 136614

48 39.58 1425I14 3

23 19 62.68J2256 78 64.32;2315 23 3 19
76

80 65.97:2375 24 2

90 74.222672 27 2 16
100 82.472969 30 2
1

50 41.23 148415

52 42.88 1543j 15 4

MANUFACTURING.

32;3

STOCKPORT
TABLE.

No.

Dents Dents H. P. Inch. Yard.

s.

No.

Dents Dents Inch. Yard. H. P.

s.

34
38

17 19

612 6

9
3

90
94
96

45 1620 16 3
47
1692 17
1

5 19

684 7 720 7 2 792 8

40
44 46
50

20
22
23

48

1728 17 3 16
2 70
1

14

TOO 50 1800 18
104
106 52

828 8 2 17

1872 19

4
1

25
27 28

900 9

53

1908 19 3 1980 20
1

54
56

972 9 4 19
1008 10
1

110 114
116

55

15

16 10

51 2052 21 58 2088 21 2

9 6

60
64 66 70

30 1080 11
32 33 35 37
38

1152 11 4

4
1

120
124
126

60 2160 22

1188 12

62 2232 22 4 14
63 2268 23
1

1260 12 4 15
1332 13 3 1368 14
9

11

74
76

130
134

65 2340 24

67 2412 24 3 19
75 2700 27 3 15
83 2988 30 3 11

80
84

40 1440 14 4
42
1512 15 2 14 1548 15 4 11

150
166

86

43

326
To

ESSAY

VII.

enable manufacturers to ascertain the measure of

the reed by inspection, an instrument has been long used

in Scotland,

and more recently adopted

in England.

It

combines the properties both of a microscope and micrometer, for, while the dimensions of the threads are magnified

by

convex

glass, the

measure

is

ascertained

by a hole

in the

bottom of the standard.

correctly constructed,
splits.

Those used

in Scotland,

when

show one thread

inches.

for every

hundred

Of

course, the diameter of the hole

must be the two hundredth part of 37

The

English glasses are calculated upon the same prinadapt them to their particular uses.

ciple, to

FINIS.

JAMES HEDDERWICK AND

CO. PRINTERS,

GLASGOW.

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