Where to eat where to eat bars & clubs directory & shopping Leisure Leisure events

If you’re thinking of visiting Druskininkai strictly for the fine dining, think A small spa town in Eastern Europe is hardly going to provide the sort of The place to look if you can’t find what you need in the rest of the guide. According to the local Russian Orthodox priest, the mud used for therapeutic
again. Although the few options available are perfectly adequate, there’s no nightlife worthy of a double page spread in a sparkling Condé Nast publication, purposes in Druskininkai is, unlike most mud used in the West, pure, and Wild adventure
real international food to be had outside of a few hotels, of which we recom- therefore much, much better for you. This may or may not be true, but what
mend the restaurants inside the Europa Royale and Regina. From Armenian
but for a place the size of Druskininkai, the things to do after sunset are better
than ever and improving all the time. Featuring everything from lurid bars full of Banks is for certain is that like just about everywhere else in the world, Druskininkai Fresh from their success building a similar adventure-filled space in Palanga,
to pizza to Soviet slop however, the pots and pans of Druskininkai and its tipsy locals to one or two surprisingly modern clubs, Druskininkai may not be DNB Nord M. K. Čiurlionio 50, tel. 1608. QOpen 08:00-18:00. Closed is being forced to adopt a more modern approach in order to survive as a local lads Marijus Krasnickas and Kostas Kačerauskas are at the time of going
immediate surroundings bubble away day and night, wishing only to keep able to promise happiness or the mother of all pub crawls, but that’s not really Sat, Sun. tourist destination. Where once the town offered nothing but fresh air, exercise, to press building a new, adrenalinesque playground for the brave and foolhardy
you fed and happy. Druskininkai’s that sort of town, and if you haven’t had why it’s there in the first place. SEB Bankas V. Kudirkos 37, tel. +370 313 605 52. QOpen 08:00-17:00. mineral baths and a peaceful, natural environment, it now sees a modernistic in Druskininkai. Located immediately north of the Druskininkų Vandens Parkas,
Armenian food before, you may well be very pleasantly surprised indeed. Closed Sat, Sun. vision of nature complete with spaceship-looking buildings concealing scores the park up in the trees will contain crazy bridges, nets and all manner of rope
Snoras Vilniaus 13, tel. +370 313 519 30. QOpen 09:00-18:00, Sat, Sun of tired executives and their wives in nylon underpants receiving electronic contraptions over the river. The park is due to open in time for the high season
Armenian Bars 10:00-15:00. therapy under fluorescent lights to the sound of MTV. Nature is fighting back at the start of June.
Armėniška El & El Užeiga Grūtas, tel. +370 685 666 00, www.armeni- Salt Blues B-2, Vilniaus 7, tel. +370 313 422 21. A large, semi-circular conser- Swedbank M. K. Čiurlionio 107 (IKI), tel. 1884. QOpen 08:00-18:00, Sat however, and the balance is being rightfully restored. If your idea of a relaxing
skauzeigael-el.lt. Close to the corner of the turn off for Grūto Parkas and only vatory without the foliage is what you’ll find inside the Europa Royale’s in-house bar. 09:00-14:00. Closed Sun. weekend isn’t lying by the side of an indoor swimming pool and listening to the
screams of 500 children, be assured that there are more than enough peace-
really worth visiting if you happen to be driving past or waiting for a bus into town About as action-packed as the Sahara most of the time, a sudden influx of guests
ful options on offer as well. The great outdoors
across the road. Your best option here is to avoid everything that isn’t šašlykai
(skewered kebabs), marinaded to perfection and cooked on a wood fire in the
sees it transformed, especially during the summer when the outside seating’s
available, into a lively, chattering den. The draught Guinness is superb, and among Books etc. One could be excused for thinking that everything there is to see and do in
the cheapest in the country. QOpen 11:00-24:00. PBALSW Vaga M. K. Čiurlionio 75, tel. +370 313 515 25. QOpen 09:00-18:00, Sat
traditional Armenian manner. QOpen 09:00-22:00. ABSW
09:00-14:00. Closed Sun. Bowling & Billiards Druskininkai takes place under a roof of one description or another. Not so.
For those looking for a literal breath of fresh air, the town and surrounding
DTF archive

Lithuanian
Forto Dvaras B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio 55, tel. +370 313 554 38. Priding them-
Saulėgrąža B-2, Vilniaus 22, tel. +370 313 523 18. In the heart of the ac- Alita A-2, Vilniaus 13 (Aqua Medūna), tel. +370 313 591 95. Petite bowl- region can accommodate in plenty of ways. The starting point is in one of the Druskininkai events 2009
There are essentially two types of Lithuanian restaurant in Lithuania. The selves on churning out traditional Lithuanian cuisine using local ingredients, this
tion yet refusing to bow to tasteless tourist principles, The Sunflower’s café-bar
credentials make it worth a peep inside any time of night or day. The gloomy Dentists ing on just four lanes plus the chance to lose all your money in a slot machine. If
you really like it here and haven’t gambled all your money away you can also take
parks or gardens mentioned in the Sightseeing section of this guide, which can
be enjoyed on foot or with the help of two wheels. Several cycle routes, each
first and most obvious variety features pigtailed waitresses in national Date Event Venue
dress serving plates of potatoes and beetroot soup in an atmosphere
ever-expanding national chain’s Druskininkai operation can be found overlooking wooden interior hides an interesting mix of colourful locals, and, best of all, the J. Melničenko Stomatologijos Kabinetas M. K. Čiurlionio 84-2, tel. +370 advantage of the in-house catering. QOpen 12:00-23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00, divided into different lengths for different abilities and tastes, now exist in and
the lake, just next to the Druskininkai Museum. The interior is folksy without room to the left comes with two pool tables and another for Russian billiards. 313 518 96. We’ve not managed to find an English-speaking dentist in Druskininkai, Sun 11:00-22:00. A around Druskininkai, taking you on a number of pleasant meandering journeys May 2 Grūtas Park Festival Grūtas
reminiscent of an old barn. The second is less easy to pin down, and is Entertainment
perhaps best described as a restaurant or café serving predominantly but
going to Disneyland proportions and the food is generally excellent and filling. QOpen 10:00-20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-24:00. Open in summer 08:00-24:00.A but this nice person tells us all are welcome so long as they can bring an interpreter. Atlantida C-2, Dineikos 1 (Spa Vilnius Sana), tel. +370 313 516 04. Six lanes around lakes and through forests. These same routes can also be enjoyed
QOpen 11:00-22:00, Fri 11:00-23:00, Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. For a list of English-speaking dentists in Lithuania, see our Vilnius guide. QOpen of bowling, Russian billiards, three pool tables, darts and a bar inside Spa Vilnius during the winter, at least they can when there’s snow on the ground, care of May Season opening in Druskininkai Square (Vilniaus
not exclusively Lithuanian favourites in an atmosphere you won’t find any- 11), Druskonis Lake
Sana. QOpen 16:00-23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00-02:00, Sun 13:00-23:00. A
where other than in Lithuania. Rather than insult the best intentions of the
TBAUS
Clubs 09:00-17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Check-up free of charge. Fillings 50Lt.
Sūkurys B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio 51, tel. +370 313 522 12, www.sukurys.
cross-country skiing. Plants have been grown along parts of these routes to in-
troduce specific health-giving properties into the lungs. The town also provides May
Youth chamber music days Entertainment
good restaurant owners of Druskininkai and call the former of the two Folk Senasis Nemunas B-2, Fonbergo 7, tel. +370 313 420 79. Slightly hidden Druskomanija Square
Amber A-2, Vilniaus 13 (Druskininkų Vandens Parkas), tel. +370 313 591 lt. Eight lanes of bowling, two pool tables, a boxing machine and outdoor tennis
restaurants, we choose to list both types of restaurant together. away but worth the minor safari required to locate it, latter-day Livingstones will be 95. Somewhat awkwardly hidden away at the bottom of a flight of concrete steps Flowers & Plants courts. There’s a bar too, which seems to be the favourite haunt of the town’s
opportunities for everything from quad bike adventures to ice-hockey on the
lake during the winter. For maps, information on hiring bicycles and more about May - Druskininkai International Theatre Events and concert
rewarded with sturdy wooden tables suitable for groups of diners and an intriguing that lead to an underground car park, Amber caters predominantly to the Eastern Passiflora Ateities 7, tel. +370 313 457 34. QOpen 07:00-21:00, Sun youth who still aren’t old enough to get into a proper bar or a club. Accordingly it the multitude of available outdoor options, visit the Tourist Information Centre September Festival halls around town
Bebenčiukas C-3, M. K. Čiurlionio 83, tel. +370 313 535 14. Located house dish of turkey and pork. Geared almost exclusively towards the locals, menus European holiday crowd. Accordingly, the place is awash with mirror balls and areas 08:00-17:00. gets busy (if not a little rowdy) during weekends. QOpen 17:00-24:00, Fri 17:00 or speak to somebody in your hotel. The local air really is clean and the nature, May - Events and concert
in the basement of a Soviet-era housing block, don’t expect wine waiters in Music Weekends
have thankfully been provided to make up for the staff’s lack of English.QOpen with large sofas on which to sit and show off your bling. The music policy, which -02:00, Sat 11:00-02:00, Sun 11:00-22:00. if not exactly breathtaking, is at least picturesque. September halls around town
bow ties or for that matter a menu written in English. For those who don’t mind 10:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-23:00. TBAUSW M. K. Čiurlionis
mucking in with the locals, rewards come aplenty, including an a-to-z of deli-
features both Lithuanian DJs and some live music, is 100% bland European pop.
QOpen 22:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00-04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance Gifts & Souvenirs International Art Festival Museum, Drus-
cious if unambitious Lithuanian lunchtime favourites on the menu, all of them Vido Malūnas Veisiejų 4, tel. +370 313 523 56. Inside a converted water 15-50Lt.PE Inkliuzija Vilniaus 10a, tel. +370 313 560 68. Amber, gold and silver jewellery. Massage & Spa June -
September Druskininkų Vasara su kininkai Museum
for unbelievable, seemingly giveaway prices. QOpen 10:00-20:00. M. K. Čiurlioniu Druskininkai events
mill on the Ratnyčia at the far southeastern end of town, Vidas’ Mill is especially QOpen 10:00-18:30, Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-17:00. Aqua Rojus A-2, Vilniaus 13, tel. +370 697 080 08, www.aquameduna.
worth a visit during the summer when you can sit outside on the pleasant terrace. Dangaus Skliautas B-3, Kurorto 8, tel. +370 313 518 19. Located imme- Sidabrinė Kamėja Vilniaus 13, tel. +370 313 580 96. Also at M. K. Čiurlionio lt. Tip-top, hi-tech treatments for beauty and well-being including facials, steam and concert halls
The food ranges from classic grilled meat dishes to the great big ostentatious diately behind the lacklustre restaurant of the same name, this now legendary Drus- 63b, M. K. Čiurlionio 50. Gold and silver jewellery. Lithuanian souvenirs. QOpen baths, massage and the fabulous-sounding weightlessness therapy. QOpen June - Entertainment
Cafés affairs that the Lithuanians and Poles do so well. One of the best places in town kininkai night club on two levels panders almost exclusively to local boys and girls in 10:00-19:00. 11:00-21:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00-22:00. A September Culture Festival Vaivorykštė
Square
for meeting members of the local community. QOpen 10:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 their late teens. Expect DJs and live bands battering the brains of the town’s cashiers Sofa Vilniaus 10, tel. +370 313 510 34. Miscellaneous Lithuanian artworks, Druskininkų Gydykla B-2, Vilniaus 11, tel. +370 313 605 08, www.gy- Dzūkija Region Folklore Dance Entertainment
June
The ubiquitous Lithuanian café (kavinė) can be anything from an instantly -24:00. ABSW and construction workers with an insipid blend of colourless pap. QOpen Fri, Sat paintings, ceramics etc. QOpen 08:00-17:00, Sat 11:00-17:00. Closed Sun. dykla.lt. An interesting collection of old and new architecture in perhaps the best Festival Kadagynė Square
recognisable place to drink espresso to a rowdy bar full of drunks. 21:00-03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance 15-50Lt. PAIS location in town. The range of therapies on offer is extensive, including treatments M. K. Čiurlionis
Museum, M. K.
Mona Liza B-2, Kudirkos 37, tel. +370 698 353 64. It appears almost Pizza Kolonada B-2, Kudirkos 22, tel. +370 313 512 22, www.kolonada.lt. A Hospitals for everything from heart disease to breathing problems. Lie in a bath of mud or
simply take a curative shower. QOpen 09:00-18:00. A June - August
Piano Music Summer in
Druskininkai
Čiurlionis Academy
impossible to open a café in Druskininkai without building a hotel upstairs Čili Pica A-2, Vilniaus 13 (Druskininkų Vandens Parkas), tel. +370 couple of sofas, a pot-bellied stove and a few chairs and tables to the right of the Druskininkų Ligoninė (Druskininkai Hospital) Sveikatos 30, tel. +370 East Island A-2, Vilniaus 13 (Druskininkų Vandens Parkas), tel. +370 Cross-country skiing Anna Kaciun of Music
these days, Mona Liza being the latest example. Inside the town’s old post 313 531 53. Vast and joined together with little glass bridges over pools entrance provide the setting for the town’s one and only live jazz venue. Essentially 313 591 30. 313 566 43, www.east-island.lt. Combined spa, massage and what they call (Vytauto 23)
office building and diagonally opposite the lake, Vienna it isn’t, but don’t let full of goldfish, Lithuania’s favourite pizza chain stokes the stomachs of an oversized musical greenhouse with a waitress, the music comes in all flavours, exotic treatments (honey and chocolate massages etc., nothing saucy) inside the Raudoni Drambliai Tel. +370 643 334 33, info@raudonidrambliai.lt, Art Amatuers’ Festival Entertainment
June - August
that put you off. As the name implies, da Vinci’s enigmatic masterpiece is www.raudonidrambliai.lt. For those looking for high adrenalin adventure who Menų Artelė Square
the main draw here, including a series of amusingly created if somewhat
Druskininkai’s diners with a tempting array of pizza including several op-
tions for vegetarians plus a fur ther foray into the non-pizza world cour-
unlike the beer which at the time of writing consisted of Horn on tap and a few
cans of Guinness. The admission price is absurdly expensive, a fact only just Insurance Druskininkų Vandens Parkas. The list of services available is longer than the tele-
phone bill for the entire Second World War. Check the website for more information. don’t mind scaring the living daylights out of the local wildlife, Raudoni Drambliai International Pianists, Chamber
crude incarnations built into the light fittings in the ceiling. QOpen 10:00 tesy of a battalion of pasta and meat dishes. If you prefer a more intimate eclipsed in its silliness by the policy of allowing everybody sitting to the left of the Lietuvos Draudimas M. K. Čiurlionio 107, tel. +370 313 512 45. QOpen QOpen 10:00-21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 09:00-21:00. A (Red Elephants) offer quad bike rental and excursions in the local area. Available Piano Ensembles, Chamber Entertainment
-22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-23:00. TASW July
pizza experience, it’s only a few minutes walk to Sicilia. QOpen 10:00-24:00. entrance to watch the show without paying. However, we must applaud it for being 08:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-14:00. Closed Sun. throughout the year and in all weather conditions, take a look at their Lithuanian- Orchestra Festival Muzika be Square
the only cultural venue in town to appeal to the over-16s.QOpen 11:00-23:00,
Pepės Ledai A-2, Vilniaus 13 (Druskininkų Vandens Parkas), tel.
PTASW
River trips only website for photographic evidence of their insanity. Sienų
+370 616 058 80. Green and pink plastic furniture to compliment the ice Sicilia B-2, Taikos 9, tel. +370 313 518 65. After a tough day relaxing and
Fri, Sat 11:00-04:00. Entrance for concerts 20-40Lt. Free entrance to the bar.
PBAUIESW Pharmacies There are a multitude of things to do in an on the Nemunas, from jumping in July
International Art Festival Druskos Entertainment
Metamorfozės Square
cream, plus coffee, soft drinks, wine and a small selection of spirits. A con- Euro Vaistinė M. K. Čiurlionio 50, tel. +370 313 511 64. M. K. Čiurlionio 99,
veniently located café to help put the fat back on your bones. Also a useful,
generally doing nothing, plonk yourself down at a large beech table and choose
Veisiejų 31. QOpen 08:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-18:00, Sun 09:00-15:00.
it to going on a steamboat excursion. At the time of writing there was little
Water parks August Dainava Folklore Event
Entertainment
temporary diversion for children. Q Open 13:00-21:00, Fri 13:00-22:00,
from one of some 60 savoury and a couple of sweet pizzas, cooked in minutes and
served with a smile. Sicilia also serves a fine range of salads and some decent Wine information on what’s going to be available during the summer 2009 season.
Be sure to find canoes for rent and almost certainly more excursions than the Druskininkų Vandens Parkas A-2, Vilniaus 13-2, tel. +370 313 523 38,
Square
Entertainment
Sat 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-21:00. S August Summer Event Vasaros Aidai
www.akvapark.lt. Converted from the town’s most extraordinary Soviet-era ar-
potato pancakes. If you’re dragging somebody small around town, there’s a diminu-
tive yet thoughtful children’s menu too. Also at (B-3) M. K. Čiurlionio 56.QOpen
Lithuania’s going wine crazy at the moment, with places to quaff the stuff
springing up in all major cities. Druskininkai is yet to fully catch up, with the Post one listed here. For more information, contact the Tourist Information Centre or
ask in your hotel. chitectural masterpiece with no attention to aesthetic detail, Druskininkai’s number International Singing Poetry
Square
Entertainment
Rūta C-3, M. K. Čiurlionio 97, tel. +370 313 477 77. A somewhat 10:00-23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-24:00. PTASW exception of the following establishment. Central Post Office (Senasis Paštas) Fonbergo 4, tel. +370 313 513 one tourist attraction panders to the local hoi polloi as well as the masses from September
Festival Druskos Traukinys Square
pedestrian hotel café, this one plonked a fair distance from the action. 36. QOpen 08:00-18:00, Sat 08:00-13:00. Closed Sun. Excursion to Liškiava further afield. So popular is it in fact that a new bridge across the river is being International Painters Meeting Mažoji Galerija
Alongside a menu of café-style beverages including an average cup of Kurorto Vyninė B-2, Vilniaus 8-4, tel. +370 313 523 85, www.kurortovy- A fine way of spending three hours is to take a river excursion to Liškiava (see built to stem the hideous flow of traffic in the town centre, begging the question September
M. K. Čiurlionio Dienos (M. K. Čiurlionio 37)
coffee are a collection of local hot dishes for a good price. Find the en- Soviet nine.lt. Little more than a decent shop selling a large amount of quality wine as
trance hidden away in an alcove to the right. QOpen 08:00-22:00, Fri, Grūto Parko Kavinė Grūtas, tel. +370 313 479 14. A country-style restau- is the current trend in Lithuania, there’s a space to sit and drink the stuff here, Supermarkets below). Departing daily at 14:30 from the small (B-2) landing stage close to
the Europa Royale hotel, a little white steamboat whisks you north to the
whether getting any rest and relaxation here is at all possible. There’s no escap-
ing the fact however that it’s jolly good fun. Expect a large pool, bubbling brooks, September Painters Meeting Raigardas
Various outdoor
locations
Sat 08:00-23:00.ABSW rant full of stuffed animals and photographs of the sculpture park’s Great Leader although it hardly qualifies as a bar. Handy for picking up a bottle for people looking IKI M. K. Čiurlionio 107, tel. +370 313 511 34. Lithuania’s first Western-style small settlement where a tour guide takes you round the sights including the a veritable Spaghetti Junction of waterslides, restaurants, spa, massage and a International Tourism Day and Various outdoor
catching big fish on the walls, among the local dishes on offer find a small menu for a night in back at their hotel who’d prefer not to pay hotel wine prices. QOpen supermarket chain. Their Druskininkai offering sells a good range of local and remains of the castle and the Dominican monastery. Only tea and coffee is gaggle of in-house restaurants and cafés. QOpen 12:00-22:00, Fri 12:00-23:00, September
outdoor picnics locations
Širdelė A-2, Maironio 16, tel. +370 313 590 93. Close to the Druskininkų of classic Soviet-era snacks including sprats with a glass of vodka, borsch and 11:00-19:00, Fri 11:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-19:00. W imported food and drink, plus stationary, socks etc. QOpen 08:00-22:00. served on board, so bring a picnic if you need food. Tours run between May Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. A International Literature Festival Dainava Centre
Vandens Parkas this wooden café-restaurant also functions as a bar during greasy meat cutlets.QOpen 09:00-22:00. TAUS Maxima M. K. Čiurlionio 99, tel. +370 313 603 23. Currently in the process 1 and October 20 and cost 32Lt. Under-16s go half price, and children under Spa Druskininkai B-2, Kudirkos 45, tel. +370 313 544 01, www.spadrus- October
Poetinis Druskininkų Ruduo (Maironio 22)
the evenings. Decorated in a wooden and slightly austere manner, it attracts kininkai.lt. A smaller and less frantic version of its vast neighbour, find this one
a lot of locals who appreciate the cheap beer and large portions of local food. Adult entertainment taking over the country with their aggressive approach to business, the Maxima
store in Druskininkai sells an average range of food and drink. Also at Veisiejų 31,
six can come along for free.
tucked away behind the Druskininkai hotel. The flying saucer design conceals a New Year’s Eve & Christmas
Entertainment
Square plus res-
A small terrace out the front makes an appearance every summer. Meaning Did you know we also publish full print guides to Vilnius, Gentleman’s Club A-2, Vilniaus 13 (Druskininkų Vandens Parkas), tel. M. K. Čiurlionio 50. QOpen 08:00-22:00. decent sized pool with water slides and, according to their own publicity ‘naughty December
events taurants and halls
Little Heart, it’s part of the nearby Dainava centre, which specialises in heart Kaunas and Klaipėda? Look out for them when in town +370 699 990 33. Inside the Amber nightclub (see above), room for 20 men Norfa Gardino 37, tel. +370 656 130 08. The country’s low budget shopping Read more Lithuanian city guides at your leisure waves’ and ‘funny showers’. There’s a sauna too, plus a range of massage and throughout town
treatment. QOpen 11:00-23:30, Mon 11:00-22:00. ABW or visit lithuania.inyourpocket.com for more information and/or women to enjoy the pleasures of male and female erotic dancers throughout option. Good for cut price tinned goods and alcohol but not much more. QOpen lithuania.inyourpocket.com spa treatments and an average café to boot. QOpen 12:00-22:00, Mon 12:00 Find more at www.info.druskininkai.lt
the night. Q Open by appointment only. 08:00-21:00. -20:00, Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. A

Čiurlionis what to see what to see what to see what to see what to see
Druskininkai is by no stretch of the imagination bristling with fabulous churches
and world class museums. What it does possess however are a handful of Out of town Švendubrė Just 5km southwest of Druskininkai and close to the Belarusian
border, Švendubrė is a small traditional village of particular architectural importance.
Parks & Gardens
places to visit offering a fascinating insight into the town and some of its more Česnulis Rest & Sculpture Park (Česnulio Poilsio ir Skulptūrų Par- First mentioned in 1620, the village features classic Dzūkija-style homesteads A quick look at a map of Druskininkai shows the town as a little speck of E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
illustrious former inhabitants as well as a few evocative gems. It’s possible to kas) Naujasodė, tel. +370 313 524 48, www.cesnuliusodyba.puslapiai.lt. inside enclosed yards. The setting itself is fairly dramatic. Nearby the Nemunykštis orange in a huge sea of green. Overflowing with lush open spaces, from the
use up an entire day exploring the town’s cultural sights and open spaces, and Local woodcarver Antanas Česnulis’ garden has been turned into a large timber and Nemunas rivers meet close to the steep Black Mountain (Juodasis Kalnas) patches of grass surrounding the Catholic church to the 293-hectare forest
well worth making the time to do so. fairytale, complete with an extraordinary, four-storey windmill he built himself at the that probably served as a defensive point hundreds of years ago complete with that hems it in, Druskininkai’s status as a rural oasis is more than justified. For
entrance. The jovial folk artist has lived here for some three decades, producing a a small wooden fort. From the top the panorama is truly outstanding. Just north those looking for outdoor rest and relaxation, look no further.
Cemeteries range of carvings both big and small and based on many characters from religious
figures to people in the theatre. An interesting diversion, Naujasodė is about 3km
of the village is the so-called Švendubrė Stone (Švendubrės Akmuo), sometimes
referred to as the Devil’s Stone and a popular place to visit with tour guides due Druskininkų Miškas (Druskininkai Forest) At a little under 300 hectares,
The Old Town Cemetery (Senosios Miesto Kapinės), located immediately west from Druskininkai, just the other side of Ratnyčia. QOpen 09:00-17:00. Admis- to the many legends that are told about it. Druskininkų Miškas provides plenty of opportunities for getting away from it all
of the bus station provides a swift and atmospheric ethnic history lesson, sion: adults 5Lt, children3Lt. on foot or two wheels. A typically Eastern European paradise of predominantly
featuring graves going back several hundred years with inscriptions in Polish, pine, birch, linden and chestnut trees, although it’s not exactly a wildlife sanctu-

M. K. Čiurlionis Raigardas Valley © Nacionalins M. K. Čiurlionio Muziejus

Lithuanian, Russian and Belarusian. One can only wonder where the town’s
former Tartar community are buried. The two other cemeteries of note are Grūto Parkas ary there’s still plenty of fauna to be found including squirrels, hedgehogs and
an abundance of birdlife. Popular with the locals year round, including during the
(fragment) located just south and north of the Old Town Cemetery respectively. autumn mushroom season, the forest features several routes to follow on foot
Grūto Parkas Grūtas, tel. +370 313 555 11, www.grutoparkas. or by bicycle during the summer and on cross-country skis when the snow is on
Jewish Cemetery (Žydų Kapinės) C-2. Jews started settling in Druskininkai lt. Several Stalins and loads of Lenins litter this the ground. Options for the latter include the Žvaigždžių Orbita (Orbit of the Stars),
Lithuania’s greatest artist and composer was a Polish-speaking man by relatively late by Lithuanian standards in the middle of the 18th century, working bizarre, mildly controversial outdoor sculpture park which starts at Druskonio Ežeras (Druskonis Lake) and follows a number of routes
the name of Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis. Born in the nearby town of as craftsmen and businessmen as well as in various merchant trades. The town’s and information centre less than 10km north of of up to 24km. For more information about routes and bicycle rental, check out
Varėna, Čiurlionis (1875-1911) spent his childhood in Druskininkai and the most famous Jew was the sculptor Jacques Lipchitz (1891-1973), who lived there Druskininkai just off the main road to Vilnius. The the Tourist Information Centre or ask in your hotel.
town remains the spiritual home of the much loved man. An immensely until he was 18. Making up around half of Druskininkai’s population by the beginning brainchild of local mushroom millionaire Viliumas
prolific artist, Čiurlionis wrote extensively for the piano, composed string of the 20th century, WWII saw the town’s thriving Jewish community thrown out Malinauskas, gaze upon row after row of retired Gydyklų Parkas (Health Resort Park) A/B-2. Featuring some of the quirki-
quartets, and also penned the country’s first symphony, Miške (In The of their homes and forced to live in huts in the outskirts of the city before being communist sculptures, collected en mass from est sculptures in the country, the park, like the town itself, is currently receiving a
Forest). His musical style shifted between the pastoral and romantic to sent via the concentration camp at Kielbasin in August 1942 to their deaths in their former positions of importance throughout makeover. Future promised additions include information kiosks, health-orientated
Lithuania, and take a look inside the park’s
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occasional dabblings in serialism. A busy painter too, Čiurlionis was one the gas chamber at the Treblinka extermination camp soon after. What’s left of pathways and a new fountain. Even without these, the area is particularly nice VILNIUS “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
Kaunas 


of the primary organisers of the country’s first exhibition of Lithuanian art the town’s Jewish cemetery is hidden in the woods a few hundred metres directly purpose-built wooden shacks which hide some during the summer months and offers the chance of a bit of nature without having
written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times

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in Vilnius in 1907. He served as a conductor, was deeply involved in the southwest of the Tourist Information Centre at Gardino 3. wonderful examples of Soviet art and propaganda. to go very far at all.
April - May 2009 May 2008 - May 2009 ("


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 Or both at once

 

!"

A small zoo is also thoughtfully provided so the

Calm or crazy?

Druskininkai Museum Vaida Gudynaitė

Thor blimey!

Lithuanian independence movement, married the writer Sofija Kymantaitė,

Take your pick
Thunderhouse

Birštonas

dabbled in photography and even found time to design stained glass. Such Soviet Soldiers’ Cemetery (Sovietų Karių Kapai) C-2. The Soviet regime wild boar in the cages can bite off the little children’s fingers, and if you’re Spa town

Kedainiai

Museums hungry there’s a restaurant too (see Where to eat). Designed to show the
The centre of Lithuania.

a hectic life for a man renowned for his profound shyness was bound to take replaced the Nazi regime in Druskininkai with the capturing of the town by Red Army The Nemunas near Liškiava Vaida Gudynaitė
And cucumbers

its toll. Repeating attacks of depression saw him finally retiring to a nursing soldiers on July 14, 1944. As in many other Eastern European towns, the ‘liberation’ negative side of the Soviet occupation, one does have to wonder where all
home near Warsaw where he died of pneumonia at just 35. Čiurlionis left was commemorated with the opening of a cemetery to honour Stalin’s fallen troops. Druskininkai Museum (Druskininkų Muziejus) B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio the money goes. It’s certainly not being used to help overthrow Europe’s last
59, tel. +370 313 510 24. Housed inside a spectacular white villa overlooking Liškiava Unmissable, and just 8km or so north along the Nemunas, the tiny great dictatorship a few kilometres away in Belarus. Like it or loathe it, Grūto
one daughter, whom although almost a year old when he died, he never saw. Druskininkai’s Soviet Cemetery moved twice before being finally settled in this lake- settlement of Liškiava has been known to exist as a place of relative importance
Events
The highs and lows of the

Druskonio Ežeras (Druskonis Lake), this collection of small rooms packed with old
city’s upcoming cultural

Several of his descendents still live in Druskininkai. side spot southwest of the bus station in 1962, having previously been relocated Parkas is unique, and an essential part of any visit to the area if not Lithuania calendar
Trakai

since its first written account in 1044, although excavations prove that the area
The ideal daytrip, and

photographs, furniture, maps, letters, bottles, pianos and much more besides itself. The statue of a seated Lenin once graced the centre of Druskininkai
bigger and better than ever

from more sensitive parts of the town including near to the Catholic church. At the
N°93 - 6Lt N°16 - 5Lt  


www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com

charts the rise of Druskininkai as a health resort and also finds time to host the has been populated for more than two thousand years. Although celebrated for and was one of only three ever made of the great man sat on his behind.
Čiurlionis Memorial Museum (Čiurlionio Memorialinis Muziejus) northern end of the cemetery is a typically bombastic work of Soviet art. More possessing no less than four archaeological monuments, namely the Alka Mound
occasional concert. Of particular interest are the fabulous maps on the walls, in- Well signposted, find it less than 1km from the main Vilnius-Druskininkai
B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio 35, tel. +370 313 511 31. Possibly of more interest to interesting are the individual graves, of which some are still well looked after.
cluding the one from between the wars that clearly shows the bizarre international (Alkos Kalnas), Church Hill (Bažnyčios Kalnas), The Bull’s Heel Stone (Akmuo su road. Buses run regularly from the capital to the turn off. Local bus Nº2 runs
In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are
anyone who ever fancied a look inside a traditional Lithuanian wooden house,
border running down the middle of Meilės Sala (see Parks & Gardens). The nice Jaučio Pėda) and the Witches’ Stone (Raganų Akmuo), the main reason to visit is all the way to the park from the front of Druskininkai’s bus station QOpen published in more than 50 cities across the continent.
this small museum of four individual timber buildings can be found at the site
of Čiurlionis’ home from 1890 to 1910 in the street that now bears his name. Churches people who work here speak some English, and can be persuaded to show you predominantly an archaeological one. Home to the remains of a 14th-century castle
and the marvellous 18th-century Dominican Monastery, the former, built to thwart
09:00-20:00. Admission: adults 20Lt, children 10Lt.
The museum’s contents include recreations of the living conditions of the time, Holy Virgin Mary Scapular Church (Švč. Mergelės Marijos around if it’s not too busy. Charming, and highly recommended. QOpen 11:00
the ever-threatening Teutonic Order, was originally a wooden construction, later
You can download PDF versions of them all for
-17:00. Closed Sun. Admission: adults 3Lt, students, children 1Lt.
reproductions of Čiurlionis’ works and a small gallery for temporary exhibitions. Škaplierinės Bažnyčia) B-2, Fonbergo 15, tel. +370 313 552 28. The updated to a stronger structure and eventually abandoned after the Order was free at inyourpocket.com.
The first house, which also doubles as the ticket office, sells a range of post- first brick church in Druskininkai was completed in the 1844. Suffering a singu- crushed at the 1410 Battle of Grunwald (Žalgiris). The monastery and surrounding
cards, posters and CDs of the man’s work. In the summer the museum boasts larly strange career, the church didn’t get a priest until 1879, and was eventually Forest Echo (Girios Aidas) M. K. Čiurlionio 116, tel. +370 313 539
01/+370 615 172 66. The architectural brainchild of Algirdas Valavičius and run ensemble of buildings suffered considerably during the Soviet occupation and are
bizarre weekend piano concerts, during which a pianist plays through an open
window to an audience sat outside in the garden.QOpen 11:00-17:00. Closed
demolished under puzzling circumstances in 1931, the same year the current
church was completed. A red, neo-Gothic beauty, the building was designed by by the Lithuanian Foresters’ Union, this unique wooden structure just out of town
in the direction of Grūto Parkas is essentially an education museum aimed at en-
in the process of complete renovation with the help of money from the EU. The
attached church has some fine works of art from the 17th to the 20th century. In Your Pocket
Europe’s City Guide
Mon. Admission: adults 4Lt, students, children 2Lt. the Polish architect Stefan Szyller (1857-1933). Countless visits have found the
doors firmly bolted, although we’re reassured by the local tourist information lightening the local population on all things natural as well as explaining humanity’s
place and function within the natural world. Featuring a wealth of exhibits including Raigardas Valley Less than 10km south of Druskininkai, the spectacular
Čiurlionis Monument B-2. Almost Cubist in its appearance and unveiled in people that they should be open in the future. Q Services: 18:00, Sat 10:00, Raigardas Valley (Raigardo Slėnis) offers an instant glimpse into the nature that
wood carvings, stuffed animals and a small display commemorating Lithuania’s
1975, a three-metre likeness of Čiurlionis can be found lurking at the far northern
end of Kudirkos and on the cover of this guide. Cast in bronze, the monument is
Sun 09:00, 10:30, 12:00.
most celebrated naturalist, Tadas Ivanauskas (1882-1971), outside find a large shaped the local culture. From the old Lithuanian meaning Swamp City, Raigardas
legend tells that in the mists of time there once stood a great city here that was
inyourpocket.com
the work of the Lithuanian sculptor Vladas Vildžiūnas (b. 1932). Russian Orthodox Church (Druskininkų Ortodoksų Bažnyčia) B-2, collection of large wood carvings and a specially designed trail to follow through the Meilės Sala Ričardas Malinauskas
woods. Unfortunately most displays are in Lithuanian only, although some printed swallowed up by the earth. Pagan mythology aside, today’s valley landscape was
Laisvės Aikštė, tel. +370 313 555 44. Originally built between 1861 and 1865, Editorial
information is available in English on request. QOpen 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, formed fairly recently about 5,000 years ago and is still forming. The valley, which Meilės Sala (Love Island) A-1. The small, lozenge-shaped Meilės Sala (Love
this diminutive blue wooden building is delightful, both inside and out. When you’ve is covered in pine trees all the way down to the bottom where freshwater springs Editor Sco
finished gaping in wonder at the exterior (unfortunately the glazed cupolas can’t Tue. Admission: adults 5Lt, children 2Lt. Island) on the Nemunas to the northwest of the town requires a boat or a bracing
can be found, is surrounded by dunes and meadows bursting with wild flowers Research Saulina Kochanskaitė
be visited) go through the main door and be astonished at the sheer splendour of swim to reach it, but is more than worth the effort if you’re looking for a little isola- E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė
Jacques Lipchitz Memorial Museum (Ž. Lipšico Memorialinis Muz- and wildlife during the summer. The valley is fabulous hiking territory as well as tion. Curiously, between the wars when the Nemunas formed the border between
the array of icons and religious paintings scattered throughout. The church was the ideal place for a picnic. Cover Photo Monument to M. K.
completely renovated towards the end of the Soviet occupation with the assistance iejus) B-2, Šv. Jokūbo 17, tel. +370 313 560 77. Born Chaim Jacob Lipchitz, Lithuania and Poland, the little island was split in two by a barbed wire fence.
Druskininkai In Your Pocket Čiurlionis (1975) by Vladas Vildžiūnas
of experts from the Heritage Museum in St. Petersburg. Druskininkai’s most notable Jew was without doubt the Cubist sculptor known Although no records remain regarding whether the Lithuanians used their half or Vokiečių 10-15 (photographer, Anna Kaciun)
internationally as Jacques Lipchitz (1891-1973). This small museum dedicated to not, the Poles continued to visit in droves over a footbridge that unfortunately no Vilnius, Lithuania, LT-01130
his memory is closed for a large part of the year, but if enough noises are made longer remains, where they’d lie on the southern beach a few metres away from Copyright notice
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76
Countryside tourism in the right direction (the museum is part of the Jewish National Museum), it’s a country they were technically at war with. fax (+370-5) 212 29 82
Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP 1992-2010;
some photos, LATGA-A; maps, cartographer. All
possible to have a look inside. Q Open Jun-Sep. Tue-Thu 12:00-17:00. Closed druskininkai@inyourpocket.com rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
The accommodation available in the occasionally spectacular scenery Mon, Fri, Sat, Sun. Admission free. Sveikatingumo Parkas (Health Park) B/C-2, Sausoji 1. This extraordinary www.inyourpocket.com reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written permission
around Druskininkai offers everything from a peaceful farmstead by the example of post-war Soviet thinking was at one time a socially-designed space for from the publisher and copyright owner. The
side of a lake where you’ll be left in peace to the Lithuanian equivalent of Museum of Resistance & Deportation (Rezistencijos ir Tremties the healthy benefit of the common people although it no longer sees regimental ISSN 2029-2368 brand name In Your Pocket is used under license
from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiečių 10-15, Vilnius,
a boot camp complete with communal countryside living, sports activities Muziejus) B-2, Vilniaus 24, tel. +370 656 083 73. Hidden away inside a rows of model Soviet citizens doing endless press-ups in Hungarian designer ©UAB “VIYP” Lithuania tel. +370-5 212 29 76).
and the chance to get horribly drunk on the local firewater with the locals. nondescript building in the centre of the action this diminutive museum aims the tracksuits. Once planted with flora designed for their health-giving properties and Print run 6,000 copies
spotlight on the local resistance movement who fought the Soviet occupiers from featuring a café and outdoor swimming pool, the park has since independence Editor’s note
Plenty of superb, excellent value options are available, of which the Tourist Sales & Circulation
their forest hideaways from the end of WWII until the last of them were flushed out fallen into serious disrepair although it’s still open to the public. An investment of The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is
Information Centre are only too happy to advise on. As well as setting up independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored
permanent camp, there are also plenty of options for moving about, mak- in 1953. A low budget affair with little information in English, a journey round with 1.5Lt million has been put aside for its regeneration, with Japanese gardens, a Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome
ing renting a car a necessity. For more information about car rental, see somebody who can translate for you makes the experience much more worthwhile. new bathhouse and pretty paths and benches all promised in the near future. The General Manager Rūta Klimavičiūtė all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have
Seldom open to the public, a telephone call usually gets the doors unlocked. lovely mosaic by the entrance dates from 1962 and is the work of the Lithuanian Accounting CO Finansai made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the
Arriving & Getting around. M. Melnikaitė sculpture by R. Antinis Sco Sales Manager Inga Grikienytė
information at the time of going to press and
QOpen 13:00-17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat. Admission free. Švendubrė Anna Kaciun artist Marija Mačiulienė (b. 1929). assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
Čiurlionis Memorial Museum Vaida Gudynaitė
 www.inyourpocket.com
introducing Druskininkai arriving & getting around getting around where to stay where to stay where to stay
Dalia B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio 97, tel. +370 313 477 77, info@hoteldalia.lt,
Tourist information Street smarts Symbol key www.hoteldalia.lt. A good value hotel close to the centre, what this place lacks
in trouser presses and bellhops it more than makes up for with quirky style. The
Tourist Information Centre B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio Below is a list of Lithuanian street and place names. We shorten some of P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted colourful rooms come in a range of choices from standards to mini apartments
65, tel. +370 313 517 77, information@druski- these as is standard practice using just the main name. For example, Vilniaus
www.inyourpocket.com
X Smoking rooms H Conference facilities to rooms designed for families. The en suite bathrooms come with heated floors
ninkai.lt, info.druskininkai.lt. A friendly place to go Alėja is simply referred to as Vilniaus.
1.50Lt
plus there’s a refrigerator in every room to keep your favourite treats cool. Wire-
for information not listed here and well as the personal T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled less internet is only available in reception and the in-house café. Q18 rooms
touch in English, find a battalion of brochures, maps and Aikštė Square (14 doubles 90-160Lt, 2 apartments 250-290Lt, 2 mini suites 170-210Lt).
Alėja Alley F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
other tourist-related necessities. They can also advise AK
on tour guides as well as things to see and do in the Gatvė Street R LAN connection S Take away
region. Also at (C-2) Gardino 3, tel. +370 313 608 00. Kelias Road, Way De Lita C-3, Vytauto 43, tel. +370 313 591 98, hotel@veika.lt, www.
Plentas Highway K Restaurant B Outside seating
Open 08:15-17:15. Closed Sat, Sun.QOpen 10:00 delita.lt. Opened in 2008 and not too far east of the centre, De Lita offers good-
-18:45, Sun 10:00-17:00. Prospektas Avenue D Sauna C Swimming pool looking rooms for equally good-looking prices. Options include everything from
Tiltas Bridge doubles to royal suites, all with free internet connections, satellite television and
I Fireplace W Wireless Internet access
pleasant balconies with the Royal option. There’s also an attached restaurant
Some 130km or so southwest of Vilnius and almost exactly the same distance E Live music complete with tropical fish, conference facilities and a whole host of wellness
south of Kaunas, Druskininkai can be reached by road from either city in two
hours or so. Close to two international borders, people driving from Poland to Cycling Symbols for the Where to eat, Bars & Clubs and Where to stay section of
this guide.
possibilities for him and her. Q38 rooms (24 singles 120-150Lt, 24 doubles
180-210Lt, 6 suites 280-300Lt, 8 mini suites 240Lt). PTAUK
Vilnius, central Lithuania or beyond should consider visiting Druskininkai when Lithuania is as flat as a pancake, has relatively little traffic, a bracing coastline
passing through. and lots of interesting places to see, making it an attractive destination for Ivolita B-2, Šv.Jokūbo 10, tel. +370 313 400 29/+370 313 400 30,
cyclists. Druskininkai is no exception, and even comes with several pleasant Plenty of options from ordinary hotels to all-inclusive health tourism deals at registratura@ivolita.lt, www.ivolita.lt. A central location and another good
Arriving by bus cycle routes in the surrounding parks and countryside. Those wanting to know
more about cycling options in the country and the Baltic States in general will
one of the town’s destination spas. A few good value self-catering packages
are also available. It’s advisable to book in advance during the high summer
value place, the slightly feminine rooms come with flowery bedcovers, dark
wood furnishings, and small kitchens in the more expensive luxury apartments.
A dozen or so buses operate between Vilnius and Druskininkai daily, with a be delighted to learn that a well established, non-profit organisation exists season. Hotel prices are considerably lower than in the capital. All rooms are en suite, there’s refrigerators for everybody, internet connections
View from Druskonis lake Antanas Balkė similar amount arriving from Kaunas. Buses start fairly early in the morning to help in many ways. Offering everything from maps, cycling tours and even and extras including romantic breaks for couples and miscellaneous spa-re-

According to legend, there once stood a castle on the banks of the Nemunas
and run until mid evening. The journey time for both is just over two hours, de-
pending on the weather. Druskininkai’s bus station is a small, crumbling affair a
bicycle rental where you can pick up a machine in one country and drop it off
in another, for more information take a look at the splendid website at www. Upmarket lated activities. Q 27 rooms (21 doubles 150-170Lt, 6 suites 180-260Lt).
AUK
at Liškiava, close to where modern-day Druskininkai stands. One day the lord healthy five-minute walk north along the edge of the lake into the town centre. bicycle.lt Aqua Medūna A-2, Vilniaus 13, tel. +370 313 591 95, fax +370 313 59 194,
of the castle had a grand day’s hunting, and, according to pagan principles Facilities include toilets (0.50Lt) and a few lockers (2Lt) for people visiting the aquameduna@stamita.lt, www.aquameduna.lt. Flatscreen televisions, refreshing Jerevan M. K. Čiurlionio 128, tel./fax +370 313 555 54, info@jerevan.
shot a hawk to keep the Gods content. For reasons lost to the mists of town for the day. Taxis can usually be found waiting outside. A trip to your hotel ochre tones and the bonus of being located inside Druskininkai’s premiere leisure lt, www.jerevan.lt. A couple of kilometres out of town on the road to Vilnius,
time, the hawk plunged into the river, followed by the lord, of whom the latter
promptly vanished. His wife ran up and down the riverbank in tears, and where
will cost anything from 4-10Lt depending on where it is. There’s no ATM at the
station.
Bus schedule attraction conspire to tempt lusty visitors of a leisurely persuasion with everything
they need with the exception of somebody to carry them around on their back. Abso-
this unremarkable three-star hotel is perfectly fine, but considering you can get
the same for less in the town centre one does have to wonder what they’re
her tears landed, great salty springs sprung up. The word Druskininkai comes From Druskininkai To Druskininkai lutely everything you could possibly wish for under one roof. Q91 rooms (7 singles playing at. On the plus side, its Armenian credentials ensure that the kitchen
from the Lithuanian word for salt, druska, which whether you believe in the Bus Station C-2, Gardino 1, tel. +370 313 513 33, www.druskininkuau- Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. 150-200Lt, 77 doubles 230-280, 5 suites 360-440Lt, 2 apartments 599-699Lt). churns out better tasting food than most of its contemporaries. Worth a trip
story above or the slightly more convincing idea that the salt-rich earth in tobusai.lt. QOpen 05:15-21:00. 05:30 06:25 ALYTUS 07:35 08:50 PHARUILKW for the dolma and grilled meat dishes if nothing else. Q 10 rooms (6 doubles
the area was formed when the region was under the sea several thousand 08:00 09:15 ALYTUS 08:30 09:30 150-180Lt, 2 mini suites 200-230Lt, 1 suite 250-280Lt). ARLW
years ago, explains why, in 1794, the town was granted the distinction of Best Western Central B-2, Šv. Jokūbo 22, tel. +370 313 605 33, fax
becoming an official health resort. With a population of just under 20,000, Arriving by car 09:25
11:50
11:10
12:55
ALYTUS
ALYTUS
09:35
11:00
10:35
11:55 +370 313 605 34, office@centralhotel.eu, www.centralhotel.eu. Once run by Medūna B-2, Liepų 2, tel. +370 313 580 33/+370 697 152 99, fax +370
Druskininkai’s contemporary popularity has seen it in the last 100 years On a good day you can drive to Druskininkai from Vilnius or Kaunas in about 12:30 13:35 ALYTUS 12:20 13:25 Jacques Lipchitz’s parents and originally opened in 1909, this magnificent building Spa Vilnius Sana C-2, Dineikos 1, tel. +370 313 538 11/+370 313 591 313 580 34, meduna@stamita.lt, www.meduna.lt. On the roundabout that
find itself part of Lithuania, Poland, Belarus, Russia and the Soviet Union. 90 minutes, although it’s advisable to allow a good couple of hours for 14:25 15:25 ALYTUS 15:10 16:10 in the heart of the action is now in the capable hands of the Best Western chain. A 60, fax +370 313 520 46, info@spa-vilnius.lt, www.spa-vilnius.lt. Packing plays host to Druskininkai’s Russian Orthodox Church, prepare yourself for a
Safely back in the hands of the Lithuanians, Druskininkai, now operating the journey. To get there from the former, take the A1 (E85) highway west 15:50 17:00 ALYTUS 17:20 19:05 cavalcade of friendly staff attend to your every need should you ever venture from in both a hotel and spa complex, the former furnishes guests with a multitude of sparkling, modern affair complete with rooms designed with a distinctively
under the banner Wellness Springs Resort, is one of the country’s fastest out of the city, followed by the A4 in the direction of Druskininkai and keep 17:00 18:00 ALYTUS 19:10 20:15 the comfort of its pleasant rooms, which not only cost a relative handful of buttons classy options from pert little singles to sprawling suites complete with interac- feminine touch, all coming with cable television, en suite showers and little else.
growing destinations, a former nomenklatura playground and host to some driving. The road turns to the left at the crossroads at Merkinė, then it’s 18:15 19:15 ALYTUS 20:55 21:50 to sleep in but that are also rammed to the rafters with every possible convenience. tive television and bathrobes. A little on the expensive side compared to others The cellar restaurant serves a range of average Lithuanian and international
startlingly unique architecture from its wonderful Russian Orthodox church straight from there. There are several options for getting to Druskininkai 05:30 07:30 KAUNAS 06:10 08:50 Q 35 rooms ( singles/doubles 189-259Lt). PHAULKD in its class, the staff do at least go out of their way to make you feel welcome. dishes as well as boasting one of the most extensive wine lists in town. Q 20
to a handful of 1970s, Futurist-style buildings. The town can also claim two from Kaunas. Ultimately you need to head south out of the city and travel 06:50 09:05 KAUNAS 08:05 10:35 Useful if you’re planning to combine a stay with some serious pampering, but not rooms ( 3 mini doubles 80-140Lt, 9 doubles 120-180Lt, 2 suites 220-300Lt, 6
past great artistic residents in the Jewish sculptor Jacques Lipchitz and the more or less via Alytus, an uneventful town with a small centre that could be 08:00 10:50 KAUNAS 09:55 11:55 Druskininkai B-2, Kudirkos 43, tel. +370 313 525 66, fax +370 313 513 the best value in town if you just need a bed for the night. Q 187 rooms ( 24 apartments 350-500Lt). AILKW
Lithuanian national hero Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis. It’s also just a used for a break along the way. Parking becomes unbearable in Druskininkai 09:25 12:50 KAUNAS 10:20 12:30 45, reception@hotel-druskininkai.lt, www.hotel-druskininkai.lt. Everything singles 219Lt, 114 doubles 279Lt, 21 suites 389-419Lt, 7 apartments 469Lt).
10-minute drive from Grūto Parkas, the huge Soviet theme park run by the during the summer, making booking a hotel with guarded parking a definite 11:50 14:25 KAUNAS 11:10 13:25 from the gurgling fountain in the lobby to the attached water park speaks volumes PTHARUFLKDCW Pušynas B-2, Vilniaus 3, tel./fax +370 313 566 66, info@pusynas.lt,
millionaire father of the town’s mayor. Whether you’re planning a visit based advantage. 14:25 16:30 KAUNAS 14:05 16:10 about the status of this place. A cut above most other accommodation options
15:50 18:30 KAUNAS 14:40 17:30 www.pusynas.lt. A concrete biscuit tin designed by a Soviet-era architect
on culture, relaxation, or a bit of both, Druskininkai with its mineral water, 17:00 19:35 KAUNAS 17:40 20:15 in town, paying that little bit extra opens doors to such treats as truly competent Violeta B-3, Kurorto 4, tel. +370 313 606 00, fax +370 313 606 02, info@ with a possible penchant for hedgehogs, the rooms are plain but clean, all
curative mud and mild climate is well worth further investigation. Here’s violeta.lt, www.violeta.lt. Opposite the Draugystė destination spa on the
Car rental staff, free wireless internet and an hour in the aforementioned aqua facilities. At coming with en suite facilities and internet connections. The hotel’s nothing
The New York Times
18:15 20:45 KAUNAS 19:50 21:50
written series of guidebooks.” what you need to know. 07:25 12:15 KLAIPĖDA 08:30 15:20 these prices you can probably afford the Presidential Suite complete with Jacuzzi edge of the Nemunas and boasting arguably the loveliest views in Druskininkai particularly special, although the in-house café affords a pleasant view of the
Not everybody wants to get the bus to Druskininkai, plus many of the sights 08:40 15:25 KLAIPĖDA 17:00 21:50 and more square metres than a small African republic. Q50 rooms (11 singles (for which you pay a little extra), Violeta’s classy without the accompanying price Catholic church, and the location is just about as central as it gets. Q67
tag. Good value accommodation with all the trimmings plus the option of miscel-
STREET REGISTER listed here are simply too far to walk to. Renting a car in Lithuania remains 07:25 12:50 PALANGA 07:55 15:20 210Lt, 20 doubles 260-300Lt, 8 suites 430-500Lt, 1 apartment 800Lt, 10 junior rooms (11 singles 145-190Lt, 49 doubles 175-220Lt, 7 suites 240-350Lt).
“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
relatively cheap. All of the major players are here (see below), or for the 08:40 15:55 PALANGA 16:25 21:50 suites 320-370Lt). PHARULKDW laneous spa treatments should they be required. Q20 rooms (2 singles 180 HARUXW
Antakalnio B-2 Kosciuškos A/B-2 Sakų B-4 ultimate low-budget experience with a friendly face contact the inimitable 10:30 15:50 ŠIAULIAI 04:00 09:30 -200Lt, 13 doubles 230-340Lt, 4 suites 300-380Lt, 1 apartment 600-900Lt).
MINI-GUIDE Ateities A-4 Kurorto B-3/4 Sausoji C-2/3 Rimas (tel. +370 698 216 62, rimas.cars@is.lt) who has cars coming out of 14:25 19:40 ŠIAULIAI Europa Royale B-2, Vilniaus 7, tel. +370 313 422 21, fax +370 313 422 23, HARUFLKDXC Vila Upė C-3, Druskininkų 33, tel. +370 313 554 26, vilaupe@zebra.lt,
2009 - 2010 Aušros A-3 L. Giros C-3 Sodų B/C-1 his ears. 05:30 07:35 VILNIUS 07:20 09:30 druskininkai@EuropaRoyale.com, www.europaroyale.com. Arguably the jewel www.vilaupe.lt. On the banks of the little Ratnyčėlė, Vila Upė offers a handful
VILNIUS in Druskininkai’s crown, Europa Royale encompasses both a fabulously renovated
Baltašiškės
Birutės
A-3
A/B-1
Leipalingio
Lipliūnų
A-3
A-1
Šaltinių
Šilo
A-1
B-4 Automobilių Nuoma.lt www.carrental.lt
06:50
08:30
08:20
10:20 VILNIUS
08:40
10:00
10:45
12:15 mansion and an adjoining modern wing, both of which offer their own particular experi- Mid-range of basic albeit spotlessly clean doubles and one apartment with little more
than a television and bathroom to keep you occupied. Despite the location
Birštono C-3 Liepų B-2 Šlaito A-3 Avis www.avis.lt 10:30 12:40 VILNIUS 12:30 14:20 ence. The rooms are bright, clean and come with heated bathroom floors, bathrobes, Credo B-2, Vilniaus 2a, tel. +370 313 515 55, fax +370 313 400 27, and overall cleanliness, the price is a little bit high considering what you get
Dabintos B-1 Ligoninės B/C-4 Šv. Jokūbo B-2 Budget www.budget.lt 12:00 13:50 VILNIUS 15:40 17:30 minibars and free internet connections via a cable. The location next to the river is a info@credo-hotel.lt, www.credo-hotel.lt. A dinky modern box overlooking the for your money although the chance to have extra beds put in the room for
Druskininkų C-3 Maironio A-1/2 Taikos B-2 Easy Rental www.easyrental.lt 13:00 15:05 VILNIUS 16:15 18:25 definite plus. Q101 rooms (6 singles 200-259Lt, 75 doubles 235-294Lt, 9 suites Catholic church featuring a selection of pastel-brown rooms at extremely afford- peanuts makes the place much more attractive for families who haven’t come
Dzūkų C-3 Miciūnų A-3 Turistų B-2 Europcar www.europcar.lt 14:50 16:40 VILNIUS 17:10 19:00 269-363Lt, 11 apartments 622-690Lt). PTHARUFLKDW able prices. Perks include free internet, heated bathroom floors and a decent in- to spend the day in front of a computer. Q 15 rooms (14 doubles 130Lt, 1
E. Ožeškienės A-1 Mildos A/B-1 Turgaus C-3 15:40 17:55 VILNIUS 17:55 20:00
Druskininkai Fonbergo B-2 Mizarų B-1 Vasario 16-osios B-2
Hertz www.hertz.lt house café. Q 22 rooms ( 20 singles/doubles 150-220Lt, 2 suites 240-340Lt). apartment 250Lt). A
Sixt www.sixt.lt 17:50 19:55 VILNIUS 18:30 20:45 Regina A-2, Kosciuškos 3, tel. +370 313 590 60, fax +370 313 590 61, PAULKW
Gardino C-2/3 M.K. Čiurlionio B-2/3 C-3/4 Veisiejų A-3/4 B-4 C-3/4 19:00 21:00 VILNIUS 20:30 22:35
Gluosnių B-1 Nemuno A-1 Vilniaus A/B-2 Unirent www.unirent.lt reservation@regina.lt, www.regina.lt. The first modern hotel to open in post- Vita A-1/2, Maironio 3, tel. +370 313 605 11, fax +370 313 605 12,
Jonapolės A-3 Pakalnės B-1 Vytauto B/C-3 independent Druskininkai has long since been eclipsed by other, more ostenta- hotel@galia.lt, www.galia.lt. Excellent value accommodation in a modern
Correct at the time of going to press (April 2, 2009) and subject to change tious affairs, but Regina remains a firm favourite among its guests, and for good
Kaziulių A-3 Palangos C-3 V. Kudirkos B/C-2 wooden building not far from the centre, the rooms all come with en suite
during the lifetime of this mini guide. The website at www.autobusubilietai.lt
Kaimynų
Kalnų
A-3
B-1
P. Cvirkos
Radvilonių
C-3
A-3
V. Krėvės
Žalioji
B-3
A-1/B-2
For more on travel in Lithuania see is the best resource for up-to-date, accurate information about travelling by
reason. Small in an intimate, homely kind of way, the rooms are a cut above their
three-star status, all coming with the basics such as satellite television. There’s druskininkai.inyourpocket.com
facilities and cable television but not internet connections. The downstairs
restaurant serves an edible if hardly inspiring breakfast, but should be avoided
Map Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights K. Dineikos
Klonio
B/C-2
B-1/2
Ricielių
Salos
A-3
A-1
Žolynų A-3 lithuania.inyourpocket.com bus in Lithuania. also three deluxe rooms suitable for families. Q40 rooms (8 singles 128-190Lt,
29 doubles 187-280Lt, 3 suites 272-400Lt). PTHAK
for main meals. Q19 rooms (2 singles 90-110Lt, 15 doubles 150-220Lt, 2
apartments 250-300Lt). THALK

basics where to stay where to stay

Senasis Paštas B-2, Kudirkos 37/40, tel./fax +370 313 517 07, sena-
Basic data Destination spas sispastas@gmail.com, www.senasispastas.lt. Located inside the town’s old
Population Belorus A-2, Maironio 2, tel. +370 313 606 18/+370 615 149 40, info@be- post office building find a range of rooms and suites featuring tasteful furniture,
Lithuania 3,354,500 Druskininkai 24,755 lorus.lt, www.belorus.lt. The daunting Belorus and its additional wooden house heated floors and free internet connections. Like most places in Druskininkai,
provide accommodation and a plethora of diagnostic and medical services in the the price is a bargain, and the location overlooking the town’s main lake and
centre of town. The rooms and apartments are plain but adequate, with kettles, en close to all the amenities is an added plus. Q11 rooms (9 doubles 100-180Lt,
Territory 1 suite 150-200Lt, 1 apartment 400-500Lt). PARLK
65,303 square kilometres Roughly twice the size of Belgium, and the largest suite bathrooms, cable television and some cracking views. Among the cavalcade
of therapies and extras are underwater massage, athletics field, ballroom and even
of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland, peppered with many lakes. North to
a cinema. Q Singles 105-180Lt, doubles 144-170Lt, mini suites 183-188Lt, suites Vila Evelina B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio 36, tel. +370 656 565 71, paulius@
south, the greatest distance is 276km, east to west is 373km. 192-204Lt, apartments 207-212Lt). THAIFLKDCW keliavimas.lt, www.vila.ft.lt. A charming wooden building opposite the lake,
the modern facilities with lots of exposed wood and bright colours provide
Borders Draugystė B-2, V. Krėvės 7, tel. +370 313 531 32, sanatorija@draugyste. everything necessary for a self-catering stay including little kitchens, basic
Baltic Sea 99km lt, www.draugyste.lt. The old dame of Druskininkai’s destination spas and now bathrooms and large televisions. Superbly located and really good value for
Belarus 502km completely renovated, this vast complex is the ultimate blast to the past health money, especially if you take the almost giveaway family room. Booking well
tourist experience. Guests have the option of simply using it as a hotel or also in advance is highly recommended for stays during the summer season. Q
Latvia 453km (doubles/triples 80-150Lt, family rooms 120-220Lt). W
Poland 91km taking advantage of its many therapies, including treatments for cardiovascular,
Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km gastrointestinal, locomotor and many other ailments. Find it close to the river, a
five-minute walk from the main sights. Q 142 rooms (64 singles 135-170Lt, 48
doubles 130-150Lt, 27 suites 170Lt, 3 apartments 190Lt). AUDC Apartments
Longest river Agneta B-2, Laisvės 3, tel. +370 618 008 99, agneta@agneta.lt, www.
Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania) Eglės Eglės 1, tel. +370 313 602 20, fax +370 313 602 38, info@sanatorija. agneta.lt. A renovated building just off Vilniaus, the modern apartments here
Largest lake lt, www.sanatorija.lt. One hundred types of massage and other treatments includ- all come with flatscreen televisions, basic kitchens, free wireless internet and
Drūkščiai 4,479ha ing water therapies from their own deep mineral springs. Accommodation is available Čiurlionis reproductions on the walls. An excellent choice for visitors looking
Highest point in two huge buildings, the rooms being clean if a little basic with cable television and for a good quality yet affordable self catering choice. Q 9 apartments (180-
Aukštasis 293.8m refrigerators being the poshest bits. Aimed at the local as well as the international 220Lt/night). W
health tourism market, you can stay here without treatment if you like, although the
location far to the east of the town centre may just put you off.Q 669 rooms (229 Andante B-1, Kalnų 46, tel. +370 682 109 53/+370 682 109 54, info@
Crime & Safety singles 183-200Lt, 400 doubles 155-173Lt, 40 suites 200-217Lt. Prices for one
person, including procedures and all meals). THUFLKDC
andante.lt, www.andante.lt. A bit of a slog to get to being located in the far
western part of town, this rather extraordinary-looking modern set of buildings
Crime is rampant in Lithuania, a great deal of it taking place inside the clandes-
tine world of politics and consequently having little if no effect on the average comes with immaculate albeit basic rooms featuring shower cubicles in the bath-
visitor. Crimes closer to home include such petty annoyances as having bits of
your car stolen to the inevitable disappearing purses and mobile phones. Don’t
Budget rooms, television and wireless internet. There’s also a large communal kitchen
with a washing machine plus a gaggle of leisurely add-ons such as billiards, table
leave valuables in unattended pockets or lying around on tables. The chances Žirmūnų Mokymo Centras B-2, Vilniaus 30, tel./fax +370 313 510 91, tennis and a sauna. Q 5 rooms (doubles 40-60Lt/night). TW
of getting robbed in the street remain tiny. However, caution never did anybody druskininkai@vzdrmc.lt. If you’re in Druskininkai to get away from the internet
any harm, and you’re advised not to flaunt your wallet in stupid places or an- this is perhaps the best bargain in town. Alongside the aforementioned lack of Meilės Sala B-1, Mildos 7, tel. +370 659 122 22, dgueshouse@gmail.
nounce to the entire world your huge wealth by wearing loud jewellery in quiet communications, the inside of all the limited selection of rooms here are modern com, http://druskininkai-guesthouse.eu. Promoting itself as both a
back streets. Walk tall, look like you know what you’re doing, and you won’t be if basic, have en suite showers, television and a refrigerator. The deluxe room has guesthouse and an apartment but actually falling somewhere in-between, the
troubled. the added luxury of a bath and small lounge. There’s even a communal kitchen. A spotlessly clean rooms are all kitted out with refrigerators, kettles, en suite
fabulous budget option. Q 6 doubles 65-80Lt/person. PU shower facilities and cable television. There’s also a fantastic luxury apart-
ment with a balcony that can sleep up to six, plus a separate wooden cottage
Electricity Guesthouses complete with kitchen, wood-burning stove and a small summer terrace. Q 6
rooms (2 doubles 70-100Lt, 2 quads 140-200Lt, 2 suites 200-250Lt, cottage
Lovely Lithuanian domestic electricity flows out the walls at 220V, AC 50Hz,
and nearly all sockets are of the round two-pin European variety. Some thinner
Dalija B-2, Vasario 16-osios 1, tel. +370 313 518 14, www.dalijahotel. 200-220Lt). TW
lt. With a splendid view of the Russian Orthodox Church and within easy walking
Russian sockets still exist, although if you push hard enough you should get the
plug in. Travellers from non-socket-friendly societies should bring an appropriate
distance of all the major sights in town, this gorgeous late 19th-century wooden
house conceals a range of wooden-walled rooms, some with little kitchens, others Camping
adaptor, as they’re almost impossible to find in Lithuania.
with just a refrigerator and all with Soviet-era furniture. For atmosphere and value, Kempingas C-2, Gardino 3a, tel. +370 313 608 00, camping@druski-
this one remains hard to beat. Q11 rooms (5 doubles 80-100Lt, 2 triples 100 ninkai.lt, info.druskininkai.lt. Clean, tidy, family-friendly and the ideal place
Floors -120Lt, 4 suites 120-180Lt). IL to park your caravan or pitch your tent if you don’t want to take advantage of
the many excellent facilities provided on site. Ideally located a short way out of
The Lithuanians use the same system as the Americans, considering the floor Drusva B-2, Žalioji 9, tel. +370 313 516 46/+370 671 964 64, info@drusva. the centre so you get nearby forests and lakes whilst being just a few hundred
at street level to be the first floor and so on. lt, www.drusva.lt. Close to the Russian Orthodox Church, Drusva may not be metres stroll from the centre. Q Open May 1 -Oct 1. Tents 25Lt, motorhomes
as pretty as some of the places on offer in Druskininkai but once inside you’ll be 50-60Lt, two-person cabins 90-120Lt. A
more than pleased you booked a room. Facilities here, although not exactly up
Language to Radisson standards, provide ample comfort, each room coming with satellite
Lithuanian is a very odd language indeed. One of the oldest still spoken today, television, kettle, free wireless internet and adequate bathrooms. There’s also a
the tongue that time forgot is supposedly similar in grammatical form as well as communal kitchen and sauna for guests. Q 9 rooms (doubles 80-100Lt, triples
sharing many of the same words with, of all things, Sanskrit. With seven noun 100-120Lt, quads 120-140Lt). TUW
cases, four declension patterns, absolutely no similarity to anything you’ve ever
heard before and an obligation to pronounce the stress on every word in the Medea Sveikatos 34, tel. +370 313 584 12, sveciunamai@medea.lt, www.
right place to stand any chance whatsoever of being understood, getting to medea.lt. Part apartment, part guesthouse, part health resort, the fabulous
grips with the local lingo is at best tough. Thankfully, most places in Druskininkai Medea is specially designed to provide beauty-related therapy in relaxed and
are now fairly English-friendly. relatively luxuriant surroundings. Accommodation comes in a small selection of
posh-looking apartments with cream leather sofas, fully equipped kitchens and
balconies. Health-giving extras include an outdoor Jacuzzi, weight loss programmes
Money and even bicycle rental. Q 11 apartments (250-340Lt). TAD
The unit of currency in Lithuania is the litas (Lt), which comes in denominations
of 10Lt, 20Lt, 50Lt, 100Lt, 200Lt and 500Lt notes, 1, 2 and 5 litas coins and Parko Vila C-2, K. Gineikos 12, tel. +370 659 634 50, info@parkovila.lt, www.
Tourist Information Centre a number of weightless, worthless and perfectly useless centai/centų coins. parkovila.lt. A couple of minutes southeast of the centre in a pleasant leafy location,
The litas is pegged to the euro at rate of 3.45Lt to €1. Most places of any note this fine old wooden building provides good budget accommodation in a series of
Čiurlionio 65, tel. +370 313 517 77,
in Druskininkai happily accept major credit cards, and ATMs joyfully spew out basic rooms and suites for one, two, three or four people. Facilities are few, but if you
Gardino 3, tel. +370 313 608 00,
money to any foreigner with money in their account. If you’re planning a trip just need a clean room for the night this place offers extremely good value for money.
info.druskininkai.lt, information@druskininkai.lt,
out of town however, make sure you take plenty of cash along as it can still be There’s also a nice in-house café decorated in an interesting retro style. Q 42 rooms
www.info.druskininkai.lt Kempingas Anna Kaciun
rather old fashioned to say the least. (singles 70Lt, doubles 100Lt, triples 120Lt, quads 150Lt, suites 150Lt). UW