Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BERLIN
October - November 2013
N65 - 1.75
berlin.inyourpocket.com
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
Festival
of Lights
Berlin lit up
Shop for
fashion
Berlins retail scene
3
CONTENTS
October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com
Berlin In Your Pocket: in print,
online and for iPhone
Basics 5
Essential travel tips
Fashion Shopping 6
Skirts, shorts, shoes and more
Sports in Berlin 8
All about Berlins top teams
Arrival & Transport 10
Getting around by S&U
Culture & Events 11
Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema
Berlin Mitte 19
The delights of the city centre
Berlin Charlottenburg & The West 34
Genteel western Berlin
Berlin Prenzlauer Berg 45
The gentrified north
Berlin Kreuzberg 49
Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters
City Tours 58
Guided walks, bike rides and drives
Maps & Index
Street register 60
Berlin city map 61-63
Berlin public transport map 64-65
Index 66
Contents
Scattered throughout the guide youll find boxes with
more information about these topics;
Berlin in Books 57
Cold War Berlin 28
Drinks in Berlin 39
Erasmus Student Network 48
Hotels in Berlin 36
Meet the Chef 22
Shopping in Berlin 47
Third Reich Berlin 28
Berlin in boxes
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BASICS
October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com
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Berlin In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
berlin.inyourpocket.com
a maximum of 90 days in any six month period. All other
nationals need to apply for a German visa in advance. Note
that there's no passport control between Germany and the
other 14 European 'Schengen' countries, and visas to any
of these are valid for travel in Germany too. All visitors need
a passport that is valid for at least fourth months from the
date of arrival; EU citizens can enter with a valid EU identity
card too. Check the MFA website for the latest immigration
details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.
Editorial
Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van Marle
Editorial contributors Philippe Krger,
Christina Knight
Research Lisa Kaczmarek,
Cecilia Engvall
Layout & Design Tom Haman
Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM)
Emilie Guilland (EG)
Maps Kartographie Eichner
Cover: Berlinpictures | Dreamstime.com
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Stephan Krmer
Production Manager Philippe Krger
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
Advertising Managers
Philippe Krger, Corina Al t,
Geoffrey Elsmore,
CoCoMedia (cj@coco-media.de)
Rather depressingly, October and November insist
on coming round every year to remind Berliners that
they can forget all about summer for the time being.
Despite this, both months come with happy memories
and events for the German capital. The country
celebrates the Day of German Unity on 3 October
with various events and festivals. Then, 9 November
marks the day that the Berlin Wall fell 24 years ago
another reason to look back and consider how much
has changed since then.
The early darkness in the evenings also allows for a
very special free event thats great for foreign visitors;
the Festival of Lights sets dozens of buildings ablaze
with hi-tech lighting and projections; see page 15 for
details. Central Berlin truly looks spectacular, and
photographers from across the world visit to get good
snapshots. And after the lights fade out, its just a few
more weeks until the first Christmas Markets set up.
To have some fun while mingling with the friendly locals,
why not visit one of Berlins many sports events. On
page 8 we present Berlins 6 professional teams, telling
you where to catch a match and how to get tickets.
Whatever you do this autumn, send us a note if you
have tips or comments at berlin@inyourpocket.com.
Enjoy Berlin.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket
GmbH 2010-2013. All rights reserved. No
part of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. +370 5 212 29 76).
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearl y marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
In Your Pocket GmbH
Axel-Springer-Strae 39
10969 Berlin
Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81
Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50
germany@inyourpocket.com
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ISSN 1611-9037
In Your Pocket GmbH
Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.
Circulation: 20,000 copies bimonthl y
The public transport map is used
under license no. BVG-0079.11.
Since the fall of the Berlin Wall
nearl y 25 years ago, Berlin
has experienced breakneck
change: i ts i nfrastructure
was moderni zed from the
ground up, while entire city
districts were either created
from scratch or thoroughl y
remodeled. Moreover, Berlin
has become a capi tal not
only in the political sense, but
culturally and intellectually as well. As a result, it is now
considered one of the most exciting and diverse cities
in all of Europe.
Berlin finds its positive image reflected in its tourist
industry statistics: more and more people are visiting
our city to see its countless attractions for themselves.
These i ncl ude, for exampl e, the ubi qui tous traces
of a turbulent and emotional history and the ci tys
compelling museums, which invite you to browse the
worlds cultures. The contemporary art scene, too, has
long since found a home in Berlin, proof of which can
be seen in the citys hundreds of galleries, many stellar
collections often exhibited in innovative settings
and, most recently, the new temporary art gallery in the
heart of the city.
Great art can of course also be experienced in Berlins
opera houses and its many renowned theaters. Its
wi de range of orchestras i ncl udi ng the Berl i ner
Phil harmoni ker, the Staatskapell e, the Deutsches
Symphonie Orchester, the Rundfunksinfonie Orchester,
and countless others is unmatched in its quality and
diversity. And lets not forget Berlins exciting club scene
and the many di fferent restaurants, pubs, and bars
that make the city the place to be for anyone looking for
cosmopolitan flair and the latest trends.
In this spirit, I would like to wish you an eventful stay in
Germanys capital city welcome to Berlin!
Klaus Wowereit
Lord Mayor
From the mayor
Along the river Spree between the
Ostbahnhof and Warschauer Strasse
S-Bahn stations, the so-called East
Side Gallery is the longest remaining
stretch of the Berlin Wall. The east-
ern side of this 1,3-kilometre-long
stretch of wall has been decorated by
a number of artists - and an increas-
ing number of tourists and vandals.
Building projects have unfortunately torn several holes in
the Wall, despite its monument status. On 9 November,
the city commemorates 24 years since the fall of the Wall
with ceremonies at Bernauer Strasse and elsewhere.
Cover story
Its now 21 years since we published the first In Your
Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time
we have grown to become the largest publisher of
locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover
more than 75 cities across the continent (with Batumi,
in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the
number of concise, witty, well-written and downright
indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each
year is approaching five million. We also publish an
iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can
be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for
IYP Guides by name.
To keep up to date with all thats new at In Your Pocket,
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Europe In Your Pocket
Czech
Republic
Poland
Romania
Serbia
Bosnia
Albania
Greece
FYR Macedonia
Bulgaria
Montenegro
Italy
Croatia
Slovenia
Austria
Switzerland
Ukraine
Belarus
Lithuania
Latvia
Estonia
Russia
Germany
Belgium
Netherlands
Northern
Ireland
Ireland
Drinks & Alcohol
Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita
per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately
Berlin's local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weie, is only
really palatable 'mit Schuss', with a shot of sweet fruit sirup.
Cocktails and long drinks of varying quality and price are
available in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often
sipped in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple
juice and sparkling water, and Club-Mate ('kloob mah-tea')
ice tea, made with extract of the South American mat plant,
caffeine and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it
comes in a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around
(or drink to just below the top label and top it up with wodka).
Crime & Safety
Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of
petty crimes are low compared to other Western European
capitals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your
valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones
unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walking
in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom
occur in Berlin's touristed central areas.
Electricity
Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via standard
European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be bought
at the airport and large electronics shops, and many hotels
will have them at the front desk too.
Money
Germany uses the euro (). Banknotes come in denominations
of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Coins, whose
design depends on in which country they were minted, come
in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents and 1 and
2. Credit and debit card payment is possible in a wide range
of shops, restaurants and nightlife venues, though always
have cash on you for small payments just in case. This guide
indicates which places do not accept plastic. ATMs can be
found everywhere; those that charge for transactions clearly
indicate the fee during the process. Exchange offices can be
found at the major train stations.
Visas and entry formalities
EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though
registration at a Brgeramt office is officially required
for stays more than a few months. Citizens of Australia,
Canada, Hong Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico
USA and a few others can enter Germany without a visa for
Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725
Longest river in Germany:
Rhine, 1319km. The Spree is 403km.
Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m
Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m
Highest natural point of Berlin:
Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m
Berlins territory: 900 square kilometers
Basic data
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FASHION SHOPPING
October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com
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FASHION SHOPPING
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
Adidas Originals G-2/3, Mnzstrae 13, Mitte, MU
Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 27 59 43 81, www.
adidas.de. Adidas flagship store in Mi ttes trendi est
shopping street has a sleek grey and white industrial look,
and stocks the top products of the famed German brand,
including retro sneakers and i tems that cant be found
elsewhere. Take a seat in a barber chair to design your own
shoes on the mi adidas screens. The selection of products
on offer is changed often, making regular visits worthwhile.
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Alexa Centre G-3, Grunerstrae 20 (Alexanderplatz),
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34
00, www.alexacentre.com. A mall at the eastern end
of Alexanderplatz square, with five floors and 180 shops,
restaurants and cafs. Theres a massive kids area with a
cinema and the LOXX model train exhibition. Q Open Mon-Sat
10:00-21:00, lower level from 08:00. Food court also open
Sun 11:00-19:00. LOXX open dail y 10:00-19:00.
Comme des Garons F-2, Linienstrae 115, Mitte,
MS Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 09 58 80,
www.comme-des-garcons.com. Chic Japanese design;
fashion in the Black Shop and accessories next door. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Escada F-3, Friedrichstrae 176-179, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 238 64 04, www.escada.com/
de. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Galeria Kaufhof G-3, Alexanderplatz 9, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 24 74 30, service@galeria-
kaufhof.de, www.galeria-kaufhof.de. A large and modern
department store beside the station. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 09:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Galeries Lafayette F-3, Friedrichstrae 76-78, Mitte,
MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 94 80, www.
lafayette-berlin.de. The 1990s rebirth of Friedrichstrae
wouldnt have been possibl e wi thout this posh French
department store. Archi tect Jean Nouvels building has a
fabulous gaping glass funnel in the centre. QOpen 10:00
- 20:00. Closed Sun.
Onitsuka Tiger G-2, Alte Schnhauser Strae 20-22,
Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 24 63 21
03, www.onitsukatiger.com. In a remarkable ambience
of high quali ty materials and exci ting design, combining
tradi tional and modern Japan, Oni tsuka Tiger presents the
full variety of i ts Japanese shoe and apparel collections.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Quartier 206 F-3, Friedrichstrae 71, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 94 65 00, www.quartier206.
de. Berlins desi gn and li festyl e depar tment store par
excellence in three interlinked street blocks. An elegant,
cosmopoli tan worl d of shopping on wi th internati onal
designer fashion, accessories, popular labels, cosmetics,
jewellery and more. QOpen 10:30 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 -
18:00. Closed Sun.
Skoda Mulackstrae 8, Mitte, MU Rosa Luxemburg
Platz, tel. +49 30 400 418 84, www.claudiaskoda.
com. Claudia Skoda is the German designer who convinces
even the thri fty that sometimes a dress is worth 450. Her
form-fi tting kni t tops and dresses shimmer wi th acetate this
season. Women wi th long torsos are especiall y in luck here.
Men can choose from sweaters. QOpen 11:30 - 19:30.
Closed Sun.

Charlottenburg
Budapester Schuhe C-4, Kur frstendamm 43,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88
62 42 06, info@budapester.eu, www.budapester.eu.
Handcrafted Italian, English, American and Hungarian leather
shoes. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) D-4, Tauentzien-
strae 21-24, Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 212 10, www.kadewe.de. Europes largest
department store, Berlins answer to Harrods has 64 esca-
lators linking seven huge floors, with two floors devoted com-
pletel y to gourmet food. Have oysters at the champagne bar
to take the sting out of your shopping spree. QOpen 10:00
- 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Veronica Pohle B-4, Kur frstendamm 64, MU
Adenauerpl at z, tel . +49 30 883 37 31, www.
veronicapohle.de. Fashion by 40 international designers,
incl uding Kenzo, Temperl ey London, Moschino, Mil l y
and Catherine Malandrino, in a cool-chi c boutique wi th
competent and mul ti-lingual staff al ong the Ku-damm.
QOpen 10:30 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:30.
Prenzlauer Berg
tausche Taschen H-1, Raumerstrae 8, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 40 30 17 70,
www.tausche.de. Bags with exchangeable flaps in over 100
different designs. Two flaps are included and various insets
equip the bag to suit any occasion.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
A lady could ruin a good set of heels window-shopping in
Berlin. The financial crisis has of course effected the citys
retail sector just like in the rest of Europe, but Berlins
shopping scene is still quite vibrant, and surprisingly
varied. Top brands can be found strolling along Charlotten-
burgs Kurfrstendamm boulevard, particularly between
Uhlandstrae and Adenauerplatz. Berlins proudest de-
partment store, the KaDeWe or Kaufhaus des Westens, is
around the corner on Tauentzienstrae. Over in the central
Mitte district, Friedrichstrae between Unter den Linden
and Stadtmitte is firmly on the credit card trail; tank-size
Bentleys and costly ounces of French perfume now define
the street where Soviets and Americans faced off in the
Cold War. The main emporiums here are the Friedrich-
stadtpassagen and Galeries Lafayette. Fashionistas
looking for something unique head to the maze of streets
around Weinmeisterstrae, the centre of the citys many
independent clothing designers. Kreuzberg in the former
West has two main shopping streets; between the bars
and eateries on Oranienstrae are bookstores, wool spe-
cialists and ethnic grocers. Finally, gentrified Prenzlauer
Berg and youthful Friedrichshain are where to watch the
trends; youre likely to find an interesting window display
wherever you walk.
*off RRP
Only 10 min from Berlin
just after Spandau
designeroutletberlin.de
Only 30 minutes from Berlin, the Designer Outlet Berlin
has more than 100 international fashion and lifestyle
brands in more than 80 stores, including Hugo Boss,
Joop, Escada, Esprit, Lacoste, Adidas and Nike. The
shops offer high quality goods from the previous season
and surplus stocks, at prices that are 30-70% lower
than the regular retail price. Theress also a variety of
restaurants and cafs, and the Panda Kids Club. Tax-free
shopping available for non-EU residents.
Located along the B5 road, the centre has 2,300 free
parking spots. Using public transport, buy an 3,10 ABC
ticket and take the RE4 train from Berlin Hauptbahnhof
or Potsdamer Platz station towards Rathenow, getting
off at Elstal; bus 662 towards Wustermark passes the
Designer Outlet.
Desi gner Outl et Berli n, Al ter Spandauer
Weg 1, Wustermark, tel. +49 33 234 90 40,
www.designeroutletberlin.de. QOpen 10:00-19:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun closed.
Special offer: on presentation of the Berlin In Your
Pocket city guide at the information centre, readers
get free vouchers for an additional 10% reduction at
5 participating stores. This can not be combined with
other offers.
Designer Outlet Berlin
9
October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com
8
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
SPORTS IN BERLIN SPORTS IN BERLIN
Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports - the
city has no less than six professional sports teams, playing
five exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC Union
play football, the Eisbren is an ace ice hockey team, Alba
is Berlins renowned basketball club, the Fchse play hand-
ball, and volleyball is taken care of by the BR Volleys. Their
home matches attract huge numbers of visitors to Berlins
stadiums; last season alone 2,4 million tickets were sold
for their events. In addition to this, Berlins streets regularly
host huge sports events such as the public viewing festivals
during major sports events abroad, and the city also hosts
countless amateur sports matches.
Despite being rivals, Berlins six professional sports teams
have recently started collaborating to improve the circum-
stances for professional sports in Berlin, promoting Berlins
image as an international sports event destination.
The home matches of Berlins pro teams are easy to visit: you
dont need to understand German to be able to follow a match
and unlike in other European countries, sports matches in
Germany are quite peaceful events, meaning its no problem to
bring the whole family to the stadium for an afternoon or evening
of fun. Finding out about which matches are playing where can
be problematic for visitors however as the club websites are
not all available in English, and some make it difficult to find the
upcoming playing dates. In the club details here we have listed
all home matches for the following months, though always keep
an eye on the club websites for changes or additional matches.
The excellent ticket booking site www.eventimsports.de
lists all matches allows you to go through the while booking
process in English, however.
Enjoy cheering for Berlin!
Alba Berlin (Basketball)
I-4, Mildred-Harnack-Strae
(O2 World), Friedrichshain,
MS/U Warschauer Strae,
tel. +49 1805 57 00 11,
www.albaberlin.de. Al so
known as the Al batrosse,
Berl i n s basket bal l cl ub i s
Germanys most successful,
and has the largest fanbase;
home matches easil y attract 10,000 spectators. The
current teams average height is an impressive 1,98m.
Since going pro in 1991 Alba has won the German League
8 times and the German Cup 7 times (including 2013), and
was also the first German team to win an international
title with the 1995 Korac Cup. The club is well known for
its impressive youth and school programme. The Alba
website is helpfull y partiall y in English.
See Alba slam-dunk their way to victory at their home O2
World stadium on the following dates. See their website
for the international games that were not scheduled yet
at time of research.
12 Oct, 19:00: MHP RIESEN Ludwigsburg
26 Oct, 19:00: Mitteldeutscher BC
10 Nov, 15:00: FC Bayern Mnchen
16 Nov, 19:00: Ratiopharm Ulm
30 Nov, 19:00: Eisbren Bremerhaven
14 Dec, 19:00: TBB Trier
29 Dec, 17:00: New Yorker Phantoms BS
Q Tickets 8-65.
Alba Berlin
BR Volleys (Volleyball) Am Falkplatz (Max-
Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 1806
99 11 12, www.berlin-recycling-volleys.de. Berlins
professional volleyball team originates in the western
district of Charlottenburg, but plays home matches at
the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer Berg. The BR
Volleys have been particularl y successful since the late
1990s, winning the German Bundesliga title five times,
including in 2013 under trainer Mark Lebedew - during
that final over 8,500 spectators were present, breaking
the national record for match attendance.
These are BR Volleys upcoming home matches:
15 Oct, 19:30: Generali Haching
7 Dec, 19:30: VC Dresden
21 Dec, 19:30: CV Mitteldeutschland
Q Tickets 13-16.
BR Volleys
Eisbren Berlin (Ice hockey) I-4,
Mildred-Harnack-Strae (O2 World),
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
Strae, tel. +49 30 97 18 40 40, www.
eisbaeren.de. Originating in 1953 in East
Germanys Dynamo sports club, the polar
bears is Berlins popular professional ice hockey team.
They have won the national Deutsche Eishockey Liga 7
times, more than any other team, most recently in 2013
under Canadian coach Jeff Tomlinson. They also bagged the
European Trophy in 2010. Their home matches at the O2
Stadium are true family fests, with plenty of young fans pack-
ing the seats, and a festive, good-humoured atmosphere.
The upcoming home games of the Eisbren are:
13 Oct, 16:30: Straubing Tigers
18 Oct, 19:30: Hamburg Freezers
25 Oct, 19:30: ERC Ingolstadt
27 Oct, 14:30: Krefeld Pinguine
15 Nov, 19:30: Adler Mannheim
17 Nov, 14:30: Thomas Sabo Ice Tigers
22 Nov, 19:30: EHC Red Bull Mnchen
29 Nov, 19:30: Augsburger Panther
1 Dec, 14:30: Dsseldorfer EG
10 Dec, 19:30: Klner Haie
13 Dec, 19:30: Iserlohn Roosters
21 Dec, 20:30: Frlunda Indians
26 Dec, 18:30: ERC Ingolstadt
28 Dec, 18:30: Straubing Tigers
Q Tickets 18-46.
Eisbren Berlin
FC Union Berlin (Football) An der Wuhlheide 263
(Stadion An der Alten Frsterei), Kpenick, MS
Kpenick, tel. +49 30 656 68 80, www.fc-union-
berlin.de. FC Union is the working mans football team
for Berlin, originating in East Berlin in 1966 and a feared
counterpart for the GDRs state-influenced Dynamo
club. Union is still fiercel y independent, based in their
charming An der Alten Frsterei stadium. The club has
resisted all commercialism, with a club anthem sung by
punkrock legend Nina Hagen, and a stadium uniquel y
partl y owned by passionate fans. Nicknamed Eisern
Union (iron union), it had a tough time in the 1990s, but
has had more success in the national competitions since
the earl y 2000s.
Unions next home games are:
4 Oct, 18:30: SV Sandhausen
27 Oct, 13:30: FC Erzgebirge Aue
9 Nov, 13:00: Karlsruher SC
30 Nov, TBA: VfR Aalen
21 Dec, TBA: DSC Arminia Bielefeld
Q Tickets 14-43.
FC Union Berlin
Fchse Berlin (Handball)
G-1, Am Falkplatz (Max-
S c h m e l i n g - H a l l e ) ,
Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U
Schnhauser Allee, tel. +49
30 44 30 44 30, www.
f uechse- berl i n.de. The
foxes, Berlins handball team,
is part of an old West Berlin
sports club, and now plays home matches in Prenzlauer
Bergs famous Max-Schmeling-Hall e, named af ter
the German boxing legend who was world champion
heavyweight between 1930-32. The Fchse compete in
Germanys Handball Liga and the European Champions
League.
The Fchse play home on the following dates. Their
international match dates were not published at time of
research; check their website for updates.
6 Oct, 15:00: Rhein-Neckar Lwen
27 Oct, 17:15: HSV Hamburg
9 Nov, 19:00: TV Emsdetten
24 Nov, 17:15: HSG Wetzlar
8 Dec, 15:00: THW Kiel
15 Dec, 17:15: MT Melsungen
26 Dec, 17:15: HBW Balingen-W.
Q Tickets 12-50.
Fchse Berlin
Hertha BSC (Football)
O l y mp i s c h e r P l a t z
3 ( Ol y mp i a s t a d i o n ) ,
Char l ot t enbur g, MS5
Olympiastadion, tel. +49
1805 18 92 00, www.
herthabsc.de. Berlins main
footbal l team pl ays home
matches at the impressi ve
Ol ympiastadi on, Germanys
second largest stadium which was buil t for the 1936
Ol ympi c Games and renovated for the 2006 World
Cup. Hertha competes in the national Bundesliga and
internationall y in the UEFA Cup and Uefa Championships
League. Hertha dates back to 1892 and is know as the
Al te Dame, the old dame, wi tnessing i ts glory years
between 1926 and 1931 when it reached the German
Championship finals 6 times, winning it twice. Nowadays
Herthas fortunes are mixed, but the fan base remains
loyal.
Herthas upcoming home matches are:
19 Oct, 18:30: Borussia Mnchengladbach
2 Nov, 15:30: FC Schalke 04
23 Nov, 15:30: Bayer 04 Leverkusen
30 Nov, 15:30: FC Augsburg
14 Dec, time TBA: SV Werder Bremen
Q Tickets 15-89.
Hertha BSC
Alba playing at the O2 World Stadium
11
CULTURE & EVENTS
October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com
10
TRANSPORT
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great empty
vastness of northeast Germany, its very well connected to
the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn and air. Once
in Berlin, youll wish that your home town had such good
public transport.
Public transport
Berlins integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn,
underground trains), bus, and Straenbahn (trams) run
by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional
commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just
remember the number or colour and end station of the line
you want to use, and youll be navigating the labyrinth-like
stations like a local.
Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 min-
utes during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at
night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights,
with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting
from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights.
Tickets can be used on al l BVG, S-Bahn and l ocal RE
trai n servi ces. Vendi ng machi nes have i nstructi ons i n
Engl i sh and accept coi ns, often banknotes and cards
too. Berl i n s AB travel zone contai ns nearl y ever y-
thi ng; youl l onl y need an ABC-ti cket for Potsdam and
Schoenefel d ai rport.
Wi th an Ei nzel fahrschei n ti cket (AB-zone 2,60, ABC
3,20) you can travel one-way for up to two hours with
unlimited transfers; its cheaper to buy four tickets at once
(Vier-Fahrten-Karte, 8.80). Buy a 1,50 Kurzstrecke
(short distance) ticket i f you want to travel up to three
S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six stops by bus or tram. I f you
anticipate a lot of travelling, get the Tageskarte (day
ticket, valid until 03:00 the next morning; 6,70) or the
seven- day pass (28,80). Groups of up to five people
are best off with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day ticket,
16,20). The multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (18,50-
36,50) is valid for transport and some attractions.
Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your
ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near the
end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines
are on board. Public transport uses the honour system,
and there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes
inspectors. If you are caught without a ticket (or with an
unvalidated one) youll be fined 40 on the spot.
Taxis
Berlins friendly and ubiquitous beige Mercedes taxis can
be called or hailed on the street. They can also be found
queing at S/U-Bahn stations and near nightlife hotspots.
Not all taxis accept credit cards, ask when you book. Prices
are the same day and night; flagfall plus the first kilometre
is 3,40; then up to 7km its 1,65/km, thereafter 1,28/
km. Waiting costs 25/hr. For short hops hail a taxi already
driving in the direction you need to go and immediately ask
for the Kurzfahrstrecke tarri ff; 4 for 2km. By the way,
Funk means radio.
City Funk, tel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de.
Funk Taxi Berlin, tel. +49 30 26 10 26,
www.taxifunkberlin.de.
Spree Funk, tel. +49 30 44 33 22,
www.taxi443322.de.
WBT Funk Taxi Berlin, tel. +49 30 26 10 20,
www.funk-taxi-berlin.de.
Wrfel-Funk, tel. +49 30 21 01 01,
www.wuerfelfunk.de.
Cycling
As long as its dry, getting around Berlin is really best done
by bicycle. Its a flat city, there are plenty of cycle paths and
wide bus lanes for you to use and you see so much more
from the saddle than from the U-Bahn train window. Note
that cycling on the pavement is illegal and may get you fined,
even though everyone does it. Cycling across town may
take a while, though for 1,70 you can take your bike on an
S/U-Bahn train too. There are dozens of bike rental places,
most charging 10-12 per day. The urban bike trip planner
www.bbbike.de can suggest low-traffic and cobblestone-free
routes across Berlin.
Berlin on Bike G-2, Knaackstrae 97, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalderstrae, tel. +49 30 43 73 99
99, anmeldung@berlinonbike.de, www.berlinonbike.de.
Choose from two regular guided bike tours: the Berlin Wall
Tour (Tue, Thu, Sat at 11:00) covers 11km of the Wall and
includes a visit to one of the last border watchtowers; the
Berlins Best tour (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sun at 11:00) rolls past
the citys main sights. Themed tours of the east, Kreuzberg
and nightlife are on demand. Tours start in court 4 of the
Kul turbrauerei, or join at the Berliner Bank on the corner of
Eberswalder Strae and Schnhauser Allee. Theres also
regular bike rental. Reservations required. Q Tickets 19,
including bike.
Finding Berlin Bikes I-4, Schlesische Strae 29/30
(2nd courtyard), Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel.
+49 176 99 33 39 13, www.findingberlin-tours.com.
Rent a vintage fixed gear bike; a 1970s Bianchi Randonneur
perhaps, or the swish Lady Kotter, for 13-15 per day. A lock is
supplied; helmets, accessories and guided tours are available
too. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning
to travel around town a lot and see more than one mu-
seum, get a reduced rate card. Note that students and
youths may get better reductions at museums using
their student ID cards.
Berlin WelcomeCard, www.berlin-welcomecard.
de. The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport
and reduction card (museums, bike tours/rental, boat
tours, etc) valid for zone AB or zone ABC (which includes
Potsdam and Schnefeld airport). Cards are valid for 48
hours (AB 18,50, ABC 20,50), 72 hours (24,50/26,50)
or 5 days (31,50/36,50). Theres also a 72-hour
variety (34/36) that includes free admission to the five
Museumsinsel museums. Cards are sold online and from
BVG ticket machines, tourist offices, S-Bahn offices, hotels
and kiosks. The similar CityTourCard (www.citytourcard.
com) is a li ttle cheaper, wi th restaurant, bar and club
discounts geared towards younger travellers: 48 hours
(AB 16,90, ABC 18,90), 72 hours (22,90/24,90) or 5
days (29,90/34,90).
Museum Pass Berlin, www.berlin-welcomecard.
de. 50 museums, including the permanent collections of
the Staatliche Museen (state museums), can be visited
with the Berlin Museum Pass (24/12, valid three days).
Its for sale at the museums, tourism offices and online.
Transport & Sights Cards
Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres and
halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets - and
an annual cultural budget of over 900 million to fund it all.
Opera & Classical Music
Komische Oper F-3, Behrenstrae 55, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 26 00, www.
komische-oper-berlin.de. Starting off as the Theater Unter
den Linden in 1892, the buildings monumental neo-baroque
main hall survived wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947.
It shows classic music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations
in English are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.
Q Tickets 9-150.
Konzerthaus Berlin F-3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte,
MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.
konzer thaus.de. Together wi th the Deutscher and
Franzsischer Dom churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlins
most spectacular architectural ensemble. Buil t by Friedrich
Schinkel in 1821, i t was destroyed in the war and onl y
reopened as a concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-
Orchester plays at the venue. Q Tickets 10-99.
Philharmonie E-4, Herbert-von-Karajan-Strae 1,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48
89 99, www.berlin-philharmonic.de. The crumpled-looking
yellow modernist building behind the chrome gli tz of the
Potsdamer Platz developments was once just as revolutionary
as its new neighbour. The excellent Phil orchestra is directed
by Liverpudlian Sir Simon Rattle. Q Tickets 7-220.
Staatsoper im Schillertheater C-3, Bismarckstrae
110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30
20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. The venue for
Daniel Barenboims award-winning Staatskapelle orchestra.
Temporaril y housed in the Schillertheater until renovations
of their grand theatre on Unter den Linden are completed in
2014. Q Tickets 14-220.
Shows
Theres always something on in Berlin; these venues often
have revue-style shows suitable for a foreign audience. The
prices listed here indicate the cost of regular tickets, which
may fluctuate depending on the show or day of the week.
Admiralspalast F-3, Friedrichstrae 101, Mitte,
MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.
admiralspalast.de. This former army bathhouse was
famous for its cabaret, operetta house, spa and brothel in
Berlins roaring 20s. Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s,
installing a private box so that he could watch his favourite
operetta The Merry Widow, and Brecht tried out his new
theatre here from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now
puts on plays, concerts and musicals. Q Shows Tue-Sun
20:00. Tickets 21-79.
Berliner Residenz Konzerte
B-3, Spandauer Damm 22-24,
Charlottenburg, MS Westend,
tel. +49 30 526 81 96 96, www.
concerts-berlin.com. The Berliner
Residenz Orchestra plays famous
Baroque-era works by candlelight,
with musicians in period costumes - a unique opportunity to get a
good idea of what it was like to attend a party in the 18th century.
Guests can combine the concert with a tour of Charlottenburg
castle or a trip on the river Spree, and dinner amidst hundreds
of candles. Q Dinner 18:00, concert 20:30. Tickets 29-79.
Until 9 February 2014, the Wintergartens new All Night
Long show features a live band playing evergreens
from Ray Charles to Whitney Houston, and fabulous
international artistes who enchant the audience with
their performances and own choreographies. Rhythm
& Blues, Jazz and Funk provi de this show wi th i ts
unmistakable groove; watch Lea Hinz per from wi th
dancing aerial rings during Unchain my Heart, see Abbdi
turn Billie Jean into a choreography of bouncing balls
and moonwalks, and other acts inspired by James Brown,
Nina Simone, Tina Turner and Alicia Keys.
The German-language Zimt & Zauber Puss in Boots
childrens Christmas show sees kids from the CaBuWaZi
childrens circus work together with professional artists
to create an amazing show based on the Grimm Brothers
famous fairy tale; on 24 Nov, and 1,8,15,22,23 Dec.
Wintergarten Varit, Potsdamer Strae 96,
Tiergarten, U Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 58 84
33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat
20:00, Sun 18:00.
Wintergarten: All Night Long
THE BERLIN-MUSICAL
WITH HITS BY UDO LINDENBERG.
www.musicals.de
PRESENTED BY STAGE ENTERTAI NMENT I N
COOPERATI ON WI TH ST. PAULI THEATER
IF YOU HAVENT SEEN IT
YOU HAVENT SEEN BERLIN.
Stage Theater am Potsdamer Platz
Abdurazak Reshid Adem
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CULTURE & EVENTS
13
CULTURE & EVENTS
Berlin In Your Pocket October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com
Blue Man Group E-4, Marlene Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 18 05 44 44, www.
bluemangroup.de. The (qui te li terall y) Blue Man Group
has been wowing audiences for years at their Bluemax
Theatre, with a show that is a kaleidoscope, a whirl wind, a
puzzle, psychedelic, and many more adjectives that people
just havent managed to sum up the visuall y and musicall y
powerful show with. The few texts that are spoken are in
English. Q Shows Tue, Fri 21:00; Wed, Thu, Sat 18:00, 21:00;
Sun 18:00. Tickets 65-77.
Friedrichstadtpalast F-3, Friedrichstrae 107,
Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26
23 26, www.friedrichstadtpalast.de. No one does
over-the-top better than the producers and l ong-l egged
Theatre, Music & Dance
Berlin has dozens of venues for performances. Theres
lots of great theatre, but most of it is German-language;
its getting better, with English plays or surtitles in some
theatres.
Berlin is the world capital of contemporary dance; look for
shows by Sasha Waltz, perhaps the best choreographer
around. The Staatsballett Berlin is the main classic dance
company. Tanzraumberlin magazine (www.tanzraumberlin.
de), available at the venues, lists all dance events.
English Theatre Berlin F-5, Fidicinstrae 40,
Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrcke, tel. +49 30 691
12 11, www.etberlin.de. Berlin residents, whether native
English speakers or not, come to this theatre for the edgy
programming on the li ttle black boxs stage. Q Tickets
14-18.
Halle Tanzbhne G-1, Eberswalder Strae 10-11,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30
44 04 42 92, www.halle-tanz-berlin.de. A monumental
school gym, used for excellent modern dance productions
by the Toula Limnaios company. Q Tickets 15.
Hebbel am Ufer (HAU) F-4, Hallesches Ufer 32,
Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 259 00 40,
www.hebbel-am-ufer.de. Three small theatres (the others
at Stresemannstrae 29 and Tempelhofer Ufer 10) perform
experimental theatre (often in English or mute) and dance.
Q Tickets 11-18.
Kookaburra G-2, Schnhauser Allee 184, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 48
62 31 86, www.comedyclub.de. Laughing matters at
Berlins premier comedy club, whi ch has English-language
stand-up comedy wi th Kim Eustace ever y first Tuesday
of the month, the interacti ve ComedySpor tz show ever y
second Tue & Sat, burl esque wi th Jack Woodhead ever y
third Tue & Sat and an open mi c ever y first Sat. Q
Ti ckets 8-10.
Radi al system V H- 4, Hol zmar ktstr ae 33,
Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 288 78 85
88, www.radialsystem.de. A fantastic theatre, dance and
music venue in an old pumping station along the Spree river.
Theres a restaurant and caf too. Q Tickets 5-41
Classical music
5 & 6 Oct, 20:00 PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Boris Ber-
ezovsky (piano)
Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Dmitri Shostakovitch
and Prokofiev
9-11 Oct, 20:00 PH
Berliner Philharmoniker, Ludwig Quandt (cello)
Conductor: Karl -Hei nz Stef fens; Works by Beethoven,
Zimmermann, and Schubert
12 Oct, 20:00 PH
Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin, Johannes Friedemann
Knoll (piano)
Conductor: Stanley Dodds; Works by Bach, Beethoven,
and Bruckner
dancers and acrobats of Friedri chstadtpalast. This venue
normall y puts on the gli tzi est, bi ggest revues in town. Q
Ti ckets 19-95.
Hinterm Horizont E-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 (Stage
Theater am Potsdamer Platz), MPotsdamer Platz, tel.
+49 1805 44 44, www.stage-entertainment.de. The
musical based on the songs of German rock legend Udo
Lindenberg is a hit with the locals, and using the free portable
translator device (book in advance), international visitors can
follow the spoken scenes too. Behind the horizon is an East-
West love story set in Berlin: a West German rock singer falls
for an East Berlin beauty, who spies on him for the Stasi in
order to save her brother. Years later, in a reunited Germany,
they piece together their history. Q Shows 19:00, Fri 20:00,
Sat 15:30, 20:00, Sun 14:30. Mon closed. Tickets 38-97.
Tipi am Kanzleramt E-3, Groe Querallee, Tiergarten,
MU Bundestag, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50, www.tipi-am-
kanzleramt.de. Continuing a tradition that started a century
ago in Berlin, the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests for
an evening in their elegant year-round tent in Tiergarten park.
Before the show starts, gourmet food is served. Then its over
to the artists featured that night to entertain the audience.
Q Shows 20:00, Sun 19:00. Tickets 15-45.
Wintergarten Varit E-4, Potsdamer Strae 96,
Tiergarten, MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 58 84 33,
www.wintergarten-berlin.de. One of Berlins famed variety
theatres was revived here as a dinner theater. Seated around
tables, youll enjoy a show with acrobats, magicians, clowns,
jugglers and more. Before the show, waiters take orders for
meals which are served during the break. New shows are
put on several times per year. Q Shows Wed-Sat 20:00,
Sun 18:00. Tickets 25-60.
Enjoy classical concerts and a festive dinner in royal
surroundings. Baroque-era culinary deli caci es and
musical masterpieces are combined in the magical
surroundi ngs of the extravagant former summer
residence of the Hohenzollern dynasty.
October 2,4,5,9,11,12,23,25,26,30;
November 1,2,6,8,9,13,15,16,29,30
Masterpi eces of the 17th and 18th centuri es, by
J.S.Bach, G.F.Hndel, W.A.Mozart, A.Vivaldi and Frederick
the Great and his court composers.
Berliner Residenz Konzerte, Spandauer Damm
22-24, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 25 81 03 50,
www.concerts-berlin.com.
Berliner Residenz Concerts
Two famous acts of i n-
ternational repute are to
vi si t Berl i n thi s autumn.
On 24, 25 and 26 October
Bob Dylan per forms at
the Tempodrom hal l. As
one of the most important
musicians in the world, the
artist from Minnesota has
i nfl uenced fol k and rock
music for several decades
now, and has sold over 110
million records. His biogra-
phy Dyl ans Chroni cl es
Volume 1 also became
a global bestseller, earning
a special Pul l i tzer pri ze.
A much younger contribu-
tor to the gl obal musi c
sc ene, Kat i e Mel ua
per forms at the Tempo-
drom on 25 November.
Ten years after her well-
received debut album Call
off the search, shes still
only 29 years old, and back
in Germany to present her
new, si xth al bum Kete-
van, featuring the single
I will be there.
In Berlin: the bard and the beauty
Events
Classic la Carte
Dine & Dream
Masterpieces from the days
of Frederick the Great
Classical concerts
Wednesdays, Fridays & Saturdays
Dinner: 6 pm
Concert: 8.30 pm
Tickets: 030-258 10 35-0
www.concerts-berlin.com
TICKETS: 030 / 479 974 77 | www.semmel.de
24. & 25.10.2013 Tempodrom 20:00 Uhr
Zusatz-
termin am
26.10.2013
10 10.1 .11.20 20000013 13 11
Te Te Temp mp p m od o roooommmmmm
20 20 0.0 0 . 0 00 Uh U rr
04.11.2013 19:30 Uhr
Special Guest: SKILLET
25.11.2013
Tempodrom
20:00 Uhr
14
CULTURE & EVENTS
15
CULTURE & EVENTS
Berlin In Your Pocket October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com
With over 450 exhibits, the new museum and cultural
highlight Dal - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz offers
the most complete overview of Dals virtuous and
experimental mastery in almost all art techniques, right
here in the heart of Berlin. As Dal once said: Come into my
brain. In keeping with this spirit Surrealism for all, visitors
to Berlin now have the chance to discover their Dal.
Dal - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz,
Leipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MPotsdamer Platz, tel.
+49 700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.de. Open
12:00-20:00, Sun & holidays 10:00-20:00. Admission
11, reduced 9.
Dal - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz
DaliBerlin.de
A well of universal education and civil society, a model
of Christian conduct: for centuri es the Evangeli cal
parsonage in Germany has been an inspiration for social
and family ideals. From 25 October until 2 March 2014,
the exhibition Life after Luther. A cultural history of the
Evangelical parsonage presents the developments of
the Protestant parsonage from the Reformation to the
present day. Portraits stemming from five centuries,
everyday objects, personal souvenirs as well as a variety
of clerical vestments, including the preaching gowns that
were first worn by female pastors around 1960, give an
impression of the parsonages change.
Deutsches Historisches Museum, Unter den
Linden 2, Mitte, MHackescher Markt, tel. +49 30
20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00.
Historical museum: Life after Luther
Present this voucher at the till and one person will receive a dis-
count of 5 off the regular entrance fee. This offer cannot be
connected with any other offer, redemption or prepaid entrance
cards. It is prohibited to resell or copy this voucher. Attraction does
not pay out the discount in cash. Valid until 31.03.14. Madame
Tussauds PLU MT1290, BD1218, SL7195.
the soul vari ety show
Potsdamer Strae 96, D-10785 Berlin Tiergarten
Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433 or just print your
tickets at home: www.wintergarten-berlin.de
S U I T A B L E F O R I N T E R N A T I O N A L V I S I T O R S
2 Oct. 2013 9 Feb. 2014
Tickets from 24,50
Directed by: Frank Mller
24 Nov., 1, 8, 15, 22, 23 Dec. 2013
and additional dates Tickets from 12
In cooperation with CABUWAZI and the Berliner Mrchentage
Der DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Der
Gestiefelte Kater
DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Gestiefelte Kater
Our annual classic for the Festive Season
25 Oct, 20:00 PH
Sol Gabetta (cello), Bertrand Chamayou (piano)
Works by Beethoven and Rachmaninov
28 Oct, 20:00 KH
Klassische Philharmonie Bonn
Conductor: Heribert Beissel; Works by Schubert, Schumann,
and Beethoven
31 Oct, 20:00 PH
Freiburger Barockorchester
Conductor: Brian Dean; Works by Keiser, Hndel, Telemann,
Locatelli, and Rameau
31 Oct, 20:00 PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Leif Ove
Andsnes (piano)
Conductor: Manfred Honeck; Works by Schnittke, Beethoven,
and Dvork
Die Pfarrerskinder, Johann Peter Hasenclever,
around 1847
Stiftung Sammlung Volmer, Wuppertal
The high-quality catalogue of the Dali Exhibition at
Potsdamer Platz has 44 pages of text about Dals life
and work, and details of the speci fic artworks in the
exhibition, plus 40 detailed large-format illustrations.
Until 30 November 2013, readers of Berlin In Your
Pocket can purchase the book for 14,95 instead of
19,95 on presentation of this guidebook (for ti cket-
hol ders of the exhi bi tion onl y; may not be combined
wi th other of fers).
Dal exhibition catalogue: 5 Euros off
From 9-20 October, the Festival of Lights will illuminate
everythi ng i n Berl i n. Speci al l i ghti ng i nstal l ati ons
spectacularly convert over 70 landmarks into sparkling
highlights. Locations such as the Brandenburger Tor
and the Fernsehturm TV tower will appear even more
impressive as their structures are enhanced by means
of li ght, hi -tech proj ecti ons, fireworks and cul tural
events. Expect a superb synchronization of fire, light
and music at the opening ceremony on Potsdamer Platz
(9 October from 19:30), and then explore the sparkling
city on special lightseeing tours: by Light-Liner bus or
stretched Light-Limo, on the river with the Light-Ship
or by Light-Biketaxi. Theres an information centre at
Potsdamer Platz, and more information can be found at
www.festival-of-lights.de.
Festival of Lights
1 & 2 Nov, 20:00 PH
Berliner Philharmoniker, Daishin Kashimoto (violin)
Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Schumann and
Prokofiev
6 Nov, 20:00 PH
Philharmonischer Chor Berlin, Staatskapelle Halle
Conductor: Jrg-Peter Wei gl e; Works by Brahms and
Hindemith
7 Nov, 20:00 PH
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Heidi Stober
(soprano)
Conductor: Mark Wigglesworth; Works by Ives, Barber,
and Mahler
13 Oct, 20:00 PH
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Simon Trpceski
(piano)
Conductor: Vasily Petrenko; Works by Matre, Prokofiev,
and Sibelius
20 Oct, 19:30 PH
Berliner Philharmoniker, Mitsuko Uchida (piano)
Conductor: Sir Simon Rattl e; Works by Gabri eli, Rihm,
Vaughan Williams, Beethoven, Kurtg, and Berlioz
21 Oct, 20:00 PH
Orquestra Sinfnica do Estado de So Paulo, Nelson
Freire (piano)
Conductor: Marin Alsop; Works by Assad, Beethoven, and
Prokofiev
23 Oct, 20:00 PH
Marc-Andr Hamelin (piano)
Works by Hamelin, Liszt, Jancek, and Ravel
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CULTURE & EVENTS
Berlin In Your Pocket October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com
9 Nov, 20:00 PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Jrme
Pernoo (cello)
Conductor: Marc Minkowski; Works by Ibert, Offenbach,
and Bizet
10 Nov, 20:00 PH
Maxim Vengerov (violin), Polish Chamber Orchestra
Works by Mozart and Tchaikovsky
16 Nov, 20:00 PH
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Rundfunkchor
Berlin
Conductor: Marek Janowski; Works by Bruckner and
Messiaen
20 Nov, 20:00 PH
American String Quartet
Works by Haydn, Beethoven, and Dvork
21 Nov, 20:00 PH
London Philharmonic Orchestra, Rudolf Buchbinder
(piano)
Conductor: Andrs Orozco-Estrada; Works by Kodly, Grieg,
and Dvork
22 & 23 Nov, 20:00 PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Christoph Eschenbach; Works by Bartk and
Bruckner
24 Nov, 20:00 PH
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Rundfunkchor
Berlin
Conductor: Marek Janowski ; Wor ks by Verdi and
Shostakovitch
Berlins top hotels all have concierges that are there
to make the guests lives easier. They can inform you
about current events, book tickets, make restaurant
reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your
Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges
can be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the
lapels of their jackets.
Ask the concierge
Foreign film offerings in German cinemas are often
dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or look
in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled films;
these are marked in with OmU or OmengU (original
version with German/English subtitles) and OF or OV
(original version); DF means German version.
Arsenal E-4, Potsdamer Strae 2, Kreuzberg, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 95 51 00, www.
arsenal-berlin.de. This little art house cinema is in the
basement beneath the Film Museum in the Sony Center.
International films are the normal fare. Q Tickets 6,50.
Babylon Mitte G-2, Rosa-Luxemburg-Strae 30,
Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30
242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de. A filmhouse for
great directors, Babylon has a great program, but often
films are dubbed into German. The building itself is a
1920s example of New Objectivity. Watch for occasional
screenings of silent films accompanied by the historical
organ from 1929. Q Tickets 7.
Central Kino G-2, Rosenthaler Strae 39, Mitte,
MS Hackerscher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 99 73,
www.kino-central.de. Art-house films and mini film fests
take place in this small, but comfy cinema at the very back
of a scruffy courtyard. Q Tickets 6,50, Tue, Wed 5,50.
Cinestar Event & Original E-4, Potsdamer Strae
4, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26
06 64 00, www.cinestar.de. With a sleek ambience, a
cocktail bar, roomy seating (even love seats) and a Taxi
Driver carpet, the Cinestar Original cinema is loved by
English-speakers and film purists for screening blockbuster
and arthouse movies in their original version. The Cinestar
Event cinema shows 3D movies and documentaries in
German on the biggest screen in town. Q Tickets 6-11.
Hackesche Hfe G-2, Rosenthaler Strae 40,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 46
03, www.hackesche-hoefe.org. Many foreign films
play here, so speakers of languages other than German
could get by here as long as the films arent dubbed; many
have German subtitles. Q Tickets 8; Mon, Tue 6,50.
Sputnik G-5, Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU
Sdstern, tel. +49 30 694 11 47, www.sputnik-kino.
com. Berlins highest cinema screens a lot of indie films,
many in English, and sometimes very long ones. In a back
courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a bit dicey working
your way to the theater, but its safe, small, and friendly.
Bricks make up part of the furniture. Q Tickets 5-6,5.
Film festivals
Apart from the huge Berlinale film festival in February,
Berlin has over 40 smaller international film festi vals
throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme.
8-13 Oct: Latin American FF, Babylon,
www.lakino-bln.com
23-27 Oct: Porn FF, www.pornfilmfestivalberlin.de
6-17 Nov: Premire Brasil, Haus der Kulturen der Welt,
www.hkw.de
13-16 Nov: REC Junges Internationales
Filmfestival, Weisse Rose, www.jugendmedienfestival.de
12-17 Nov: Afrikamera, Arsenal, www.afrikamera.de
18-24 Nov: Spanish FF, Moviemento,
www.berlinspanischesfilmfest.com
29 Nov - 14 Dec: Around the World in 14 films,
Babylon, www.berlinbabylon14.net
Cinemas
In a city dominated by mainly German
theater shows, the BLUE MAN GROUP
show at Potsdamer Platz offers a won-
derful solution for any tongue-tied for-
eigner in the city. The New York produc-
tion is a unique form of entertainment
that communicates with its audience
by way of gestures, expressions and
music rather than words. In the show,
three bald-headed blue men whisk the
audience away on a funny, entertaining, thrilling and unique musical
journey. Now the show, which has been thrilling audiences in Berlin
since 2004, is introducing an international edition in which English text
has been creatively integrated into the production, making it even easier
for visitors from abroad to follow along.
Come see the BLUE MAN GROUP perform at the Stage BLUEMAX The-
ater at Potsdamer Platz.
BLUEMANGROUP, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4, Stage BLUEMAXTheater,
Tel. (+ 49) (0) 18 05 44 44
*
, www.bluemangroup.de/international
Daily shows except for on Mondays. Tickets from 54,90.
Discover the wild side of berlin.
BLUE MAN GROUP

*
0.14/min. calling from a German landline.
Cellphone charges max. 0.42 min.
Italian night
in the Dresdner Zwinger
Te most beautiful tenor arias
by Verdi and Puccini
On 9 and 16 November
tel. +49 351 41886230
www.concerts-dresden.com
28 Nov, 20:00 PH
Berliner Philharmoniker
Conductor: Riccardo Chailly; Works by Wagner and Liszt
30 Nov, 20:00 PH
Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin, Kim Barbier (piano)
Conductor: Andreas Wittmann; Works by Tchaikovsky
Concerts
8 Oct, 20:00 TD
James Blake (singer/songwriter)
19 Oct, 20:00 O2
Peter Gabriel (Rock)
24-26 Oct, 20:00 TD
Bob Dylan (Folk Rock)
26 Oct, 20:00 MS
Deep Purple (Rock)
Dresden, just 2 hours by direct IC train south of Berlin,
is a grand city to visit for the amazing views of the Elbe
river from the Brhlsche Terrasse, for the Semperoper
opera house, and the reconstructed Frauenkirche and
Neumarkt Square. But its at the Zwinger, a magnificent
rococo palace, where you can be whisked away on an
exploration of triple-time waltz classics this winter.
The glamorous gala concerts on 5, 12, 19 & 26 October
and 2 & 30 November present classi c hi ts, wal tz
dreams and operetta melodies by Mozart and Johann
Strauss. The Italian nights of 9 & 16 November feature
the most beautiful arias by Verdi and Puccini, while on
the 23rd theres Vivaldis Four Seasons. Christmas is
celebrated with special concerts in the Marble Hall on 25
& 26 December at 17:00, and 2014 is welcomed on 31
December at 15:00 and 17:00 with a New Years concert.
Dresdner Residenz Konzerte, info@concerts-
dresden.com, tel. +49 351 41 88 62 30, info@
concerts-dresden.com, www.concerts-dresden.
com. Tickets 35, New Years concert 50.
Waltzing down to Dresden
Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel
concierges, at ticket offices (also in major department
stores) and online.
Eventim, tel. +49 180 557 00 70, www.eventim.
de. An online booking service with event tickets mailed
or available for home printing.
Hekt i cket C- 4, Har denber gst r ae 29d,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel.
+49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket.de. Ticket shops
and online sales (for home printing, pick-up or mailing).
Reduced same-day tickets for shows and attractions are
available after 14:00. Also at Karl-Liebknecht-Strae 13,
Mitte. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
Koka 36 H-4, Oranienstrae 29, Kreuzberg, MU
Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.
koka36.de. Kreuzbergs Konzertkasse has tickets in
their shop and online (German onl y), for mailing and
pick-up. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun.
Papagena, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, http://khs.
papagena.de. Regular and reduced price tickets for
classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-
language service.
Event tickets
19
October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com
MITTE
18
CULTURE & EVENTS
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery E Live music
N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
B Outside seating G Non-smoking room
S Take away R Internet
W Wi-Fi
Additional symbols for hotels
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
L Guarded parking H Conference facilities
F Fitness centre K Restaurant
D Sauna C Swimming pool
Dinner price guide
The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, caf and
nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level
based on a main course with a glass of wine.
Expensive; more than 30 per person.
Not cheap; 20-30 per person.
Middling; from 10-20 per person.
Cheap; less than 10 per person.
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Since reunification, the old city centre district Mitte
(meaning middle) has rightly snatched back the title of
most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the
boulevard Unter den Linden are baroque and classical
monuments to Prussian culture. The architecturally hum-
bler but more neighbourhood-like Scheunenviertel area
allows the casually chic to saunter from courtyard gallery
to sidewalk caf. Only traces are left of the Jewish commu-
nity that lived here from the late 17th century, welcomed by
the Great Elector Friedrich Wilhelm.
Between Mitte and Charlottenburg, the huge Tiergarten
park began as the Great Electors hunting grounds in
the 1600s. Traffic passes through it, doing a dosey-doe
around the Siegessule victory column. The Strae des
17. Juni leads east to the Brandenburger Tor; just south of
it are the state museums of the Kulturforum and the Pots-
damer Platz district with its soaring corporate buildings.
Getting there
Arrivals by plane and train usually end up at Hauptbahnhof
station, central for the city but not really close to anything.
S-Bahn trains from the top level link to the east and west
of the city, while the fancy new two-stop U55 U-Bahn line
takes sightseers straight to Brandenburger Tor.
Pocket Walk
Start off at Brandenburger Tor and the Reichstag before
heading south past the Holocaust memorial and Potsdamer
Platz to the Topographie des Terrors exhibition and the
adjacent stretch of Berlin Wall. Follow Zimmerstrae for
the Stasi Exhibition and Checkpoint Charlie. Walk north
along Friedrichstrae and turn right at Mohrenstrae for
Gendarmenmarkt square, before ambling to Unter den
Linden via Bebelplatz. Walk east past the Neue Wache and
Berliner Dom, turn left into Spandauer Strae, and pass
through Hackescher Markt station. Visit the Hackesche Hfe
complex before walking down Oranienburger Strae for the
Neue Synagoge. You can catch the S-Bahn from here back
to Brandenburger Tor.
Kilkenny Irish Pub
Fun & football, a drink or two and a bite to eat go hand
in hand. And if thats what youre after, the Kilkenny Irish
Pub is where you find it. Watch all major sport events,
Champions League, Premier League, Formula One etc.
on large screens, together with locals and tourists from
all over the world.
G-3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84, mail@kilkenny-pub.
de, www.kilkenny-pub.de.QOpen Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu,
Sun 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. EGBW
Irish Harp Pub
Just one minute off Kurfrstendamm, the Irish Harp Pub is
a haven for music and sports fans alike. Two bars, a cozy
ambience, four large TVs and two big screens provide
the setting for a great night out, or an afternoon full of
excitement and entertainment while following international
football, rugby and other sports, or playing a round of darts.
B-4, Giesebrechtstrae 15, Charlottenburg, MU
Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, mail@
harp-pub.de, www.harp-pub.de.QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.
-. EBW
Irish Harp & Kilkenny
30 Oct, 20:00 CC
Morcheeba (Trip hop)
31 Oct, 20:00 AD
Lisa Stansfield (Pop)
4 Nov, 19:30 O2
Nickelback (Rock)
5 Nov, 20:00 CH
Arctic Monkeys (Rock)
10 Nov, 20:00 TD
Patricia Kaas sings Piaf (Chansons)
11 Nov, 20:00 TD
Woodkid (Indie Pop)
25 Nov, 20:00 TD
Katie Melua (Pop)
26 Nov, 19:00 VD
Motrhead (Heavy Metal)
28 Nov, 20:00 O2
Placebo (Rock)
Exhibitions
Until 20 October HB
The Berlin World Improvement Machine
What if artists and scientists in Berlin have been researching
a gi ganti c Worl d I mprovement Machi ne - Di e Berli ner
Weltverbesserungsmaschine - since the 17th century, and
that they were finally able to build it?
Until 1 December MG
Meret Oppenheim Retrospective
For the first time a comprehensive retrospective is dedicated
to the famous artist Meret Oppenheim, who was born in Berlin
on 6 October 1913.
AD Admiralspalast, Friedrichstrae 101-102, tel. +49
30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de.
CC C-Club, Columbiadamm 9-11, tel. +49 30 698 09
80, www.columbiaclub.de.
CH Columbia-Halle, Columbiadamm 13-21, tel. +49
30 698 09 80, www.columbiahalle.de.
HB Hamburger Bahnhof Museum, Invalidenstrae 50-
51, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, www.hamburgerbahnhof.de.
KH Konzerthaus Berlin, Gendarmenmarkt, tel. +49
30 20 30 90, www.konzerthaus.de.
MG Martin-Gropius-Bau, Niederkirchnerstrae 7, tel.
+49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de.
MS Max-Schmeling-Halle, Am Falkplatz, tel. +49 30
44 30 45, www.max-schmeling-halle.de.
O2 O2 World, Mhlenstrae 12-30, tel. +49 30 20 60
70 80, www.o2world.de.
PH Philharmonie, Herbert-von-Karajan-Strae 1, tel.
+49 30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.
TD Tempodrom, Mckernstrae 10, tel. +49 30 69 53
38 85, www.tempodrom.de.
VD Velodrom, S-Bahnhof Landsberger Allee, www.
velodrom.de.
Venue list Berlin
20
MITTE
21
MITTE
Berlin In Your Pocket October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com
German
Alpenstueck F-2, Gar tenstrae 9, Mitte, MS
Nor dbahnhof, tel . +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.
alpenstueck.de. Wi ener Schni t zel wi th Schwabi an
potato salad, Maul taschen wi th Bavarian creme are just
a few of the dishes availabl e at Alpenstueck, a desi gner
restaurant wi th a tradi ti onal twist. The chef prepares
southern German and Austrian home cooking wi th fresh
ingredi ents, changing the menu ever y three days. A feast
for the eyes and the palate. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. .
TUGBS
Habel Weinkultur F-3, Luisenstrae 19, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 28 09 84 84, www.wein-
habel.de. Set in the arches under the rumbling S-Bahn
tracks and in an adjacent grand building, this excellent wine
brasserie serves delicious German and international cuisine
backed up by their shop offering a stunning selection of wines.
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. . UGB
Joseph Roth Diele E-4, Potsdamer Strae 75,
Tiergarten, MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 26 36
98 84, www.joseph-roth-diele.de. A wonderfull y cosy
dark brown bar owned by the same people who run the Ave
Maria religious shop, right next door to Joseph. Its named
after a prolific Jewish writer whose quotes decorate the walls
and who lived nearby in the 1920s when this street was the
beating heart of Berlins nightlife. A nicel y-priced lunch and
delicious Flammkuchen pies are served, and its a great
place for a beer or wine after a show at the Wintergarten
Variet, opposite. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
. TENGBSW
Keyser Soze F-2, Tucholskystrae 33, Mitte, MS
Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 59 94 89, www.
keyser-soze.de. A renowned corner bar in Mi tte wi th an
unpretentious atmosphere, great food and a good mix of
locals and visitors. The food is simple and good; try the famed
all-day breakfast, poached Bavarian Weiwurst sausages, a
Schnitzel, or the goat cheese salad. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00.
. TENGBS
Maximilians F-4, Friedrichstrae 185-190, Mitte,
MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 45 05 59, www.
maximiliansrestaurant.de. So you al ways wondered
what Bavaria is like the beer, the food, Oktoberfest but
you onl y made i t as far as Berlin? No problem: Maximilians
restaurant serves up authenti c and deli cious Bavarian
cuisine just a stones throw from Gendarmenmarkt. The
menu includes soups and salads, but the real speciali ties
are the delicious Bavarian meat dishes such as knuckle
of pork, steak, and a variety of sausages. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00. . UGBS
Mutter Hoppe G-3, Rathausstrae 21, Mitte,
MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25, www.
prostmahlzeit.de/mutterhoppe. Head down the winding
staircase into this restaurant in the Nikolai viertel district.
Youll find the space divided into cosy, low-ceilinged nooks with
upholstered banquettes and historic photos and drawings on
the painted walls. Heavy meat dishes are the meals to order
here. The kitchen offers sides not served at other German
restaurants, including green beans wrapped in bacon. Make
reservations; or try their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a
few doors further towards the Spree. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00.
. TEGB
Restauration 1840 G-3, Am Zwirngraben 8-10, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 24 72 74 01, post@
berlin-1840.de, www.berlin-1840.de. Located in a
vaul ted space under the S-Bahn tracks, this tradi tional
Berlin restaurant designed to recall the golden 1920s serves
regi onall y sourced internati onal cuisine, including l ocal
favourites such as Slze (cold knuckle), Buletten (meatballs)
and Currywurst sausage. There are good seasonal wines,
and the bar staff can shake up a great cocktail. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. EGBW
Schwarzwaldstuben F-3, Tucholskystrae 48, Mitte,
MU Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84,
www.schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Bambi meets Berlin
chic at the trendy Black Forest themed Schwarzwaldstuben,
which has a friendl y atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads
mounted on the walls and heavy mi x-matched furni ture.
Regional treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets
in broth) and Schnitzel. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. .
TUNBS
Stndige Vertretung F-3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, Mitte,
MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 282 39 65, www.
staev.de. Bonn politicians and bureaucrats were not happy
when they had to move to Berlin. They sent their favorite Bonn
hangout (named after the West-German embassy in the
GDR) as an advance scout. This laid-back politicians meeting
point supplies the homesick with their beloved Klsch beer
and Rhineland special ties (like Blutwurst and Saumagen),
but the menu has a selection of Berlin food as well. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00. . B
Weihenstephaner G-3, Neue Promenade 5, Mitte,
MS/U Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 84 71 07 60,
www.weihenstephaner-berlin.de. The one eater y on
the sunny square that deli vers a hey, this is Germany!
experience. The Weihenstephaner brewery restaurant has
dirndel-clad wai tresses who serve simple and satisfying
Bavarian speciali ties (like whi te sausages). The outdoor
tables have typical blue-and-whi te checked tablecloths;
inside, the rooms are rustic but elegant. QOpen 11:00 -
01:00. . TUEGB
Zi l l e- St ube G- 3, Spr eeuf er 3, Mi t t e, MU
Kl oster strae, tel . +49 30 242 52 47, www.
zillestube-nikolaiviertel.de. The name is in homage to
Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose illustrations line the walls
above upholstered banquettes and wooden banisters.
Dominating the menu are typical Berlin meat dishes like
Boulette, Kohlroulade (beaf-stuffed cabbage l eaves),
Sauerbraten (marinated pot roast) and Rostbratwurst.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. . E
Restaurants & Cafs
Over 200
Adlon Kempinski F-2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU
Unter den Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, adlon@kempinski.
com, www.hotel-adlon.de. The reconstructed, historic
Adlon hotel has views of the Brandenburger Tor and Under den
Linden, unfussy 1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black
marble and rich fabrics, and the staff provides impeccable
service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even
Europe, this is in fact the onl y place to sleep in Berlin. Q375
rooms (304 singles 240 - 379, 304 doubles 216 - 478,
78 suites 531 - 7100). PHAUFLGKDCwW
hhhhh
Das Stue D-4, Drakestrae 1, Tiergar ten, MU
Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue.
com. The luxurious, family-owned living room hotel, set in the
1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an interesting mix of
creatives and business visitors. The 1920s-style bar and many
rooms overlook the zoo, with ostriches and antelopes peering
back at you. The rooms and grand suites are spread across the
old and new wings, adorned with beautiful wooden and copper
details. A small pool can be found in the spa area, and theres
the first-class Cinco restaurant. Q 80 rooms (70 doubles
from 200, 20 suites 290-740). PHUFGKDCW
Hilton F-2, Mohrenstrae 30, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte,
tel. +49 30 202 30, info.berlin@hilton.com, www.hilton.
com. Maybe its the excellent breakfast and not the privileged
view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back.
The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants and
exotic spa treatments. Q591 rooms (singles 145 - 345,
doubles 145 - 345, suites 220 - 1145). Breakfast extra.
PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh
Hotel de Rome F-3, Behrenstrae 37, Mitte, MS/U
Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 460 60 90, inf o.
derome@roccofortecollection.com, www.hotelderome.
com. Overlooking Bebelplatz, this top-class hotel occupies
a magni ficent former bank building from 1889. Wooden
panelling, marble and even shrapnel damage pervade the
high-ceilinged lobby and rooms, and the banks vaul t is now
a 20-metre pool. Q146 rooms (103 singles 395 - 495, 103
doubles 395 - 495, 43 suites 595 - 4100).
Marriott E-4, Inge-Beisheim-Platz 1, Mitte, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22 00 00, www.marriott.
com. Ten floors of superb rooms and conference facilities
overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenel y spinning
3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one
wall plays an unearthl y light show. That plus a wellness
centre and a classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make
this one of Berlins finest hotels. Q379 rooms (350 singles
159 - 219, 350 doubles 159 - 219, 9 sui tes 350 -
1200, 80 executi ve room 199 - 259). Breakfast extra.
PHAFLGKDC hhhhh
Ritz-Carlton E/F-4, Potsdamer Platz 3, Mitte, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 33 77 77, berlin@
ritzcarlton.com, www.ritzcarlton.com. A gil t-edged
hotel wi th superlati ve services, gourmet dining and fake
marbl e Corinthian columns lining a sweeping staircase
in the lobby. The classic dark wooden bar opens wi th a
ceremony every evening at 18:00 and serves over 400 fine
fruit brandies. Q302 rooms (singles 250 - 360, doubles
280 - 440, 40 sui tes 330 - 5000). Breakfast extra.
PTHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
Westin Grand F-3, Friedrichstrae 158-164, Mitte,
MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 202 70, info@
westin-grand.com, www.westin.com/berlin. Enviably well-
located and used in GDR times for Party bigwigs, the Westin is
classically furnished, with a copy of the Adlons marble staircase
situated in the lobby, a round pool, an upmarket restaurant
and sui tes wi th butler service. Q358 rooms (25 singles
136 - 350, 273 doubles 136 - 375, suites 379 - 930, 15
junior suites 279 - 565, 1 presidential suite 986 - 1930).
Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
150-200
Berlin, Berlin D-4, Ltzowplatz 17, Tiergarten, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 260 50, info@hotel-berlin.
de, www.hotel-berlin.de. Mostl y known for its conference
facilities, this large 1958 hotel is in a central but rather bland
area just south of Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby
and restaurant give way to comfortabl y furnished rooms, in
a variety of styles. Theres live sports action in the bar, while
peace can be found in the summer garden restaurant. Q701
rooms (103 singles 100 - 195, 569 doubles 100 - 245, 29
suites 220 - 900). PHARUFLGKD hhhh
Mandala E-4, Potsdamer Strae 3, Tiergarten, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00 00, welcome@
madison-berlin.de, www.themandala.de. Excell ent
rooms and apartments for both short and long-term stays.
The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great views over
Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch Facil restaurant and
Qiu lounge; the suites at Friedrichstrae 185-190 are close
to all the action. Q157 rooms (157 suites 130 - 5800).
Breakfast extra. PHAUFLKDW hhhhh
75-150
Honigmond & Garden Hotels F-2, Tieckstrae
12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 284 45 50,
honigmond@t-online.de, www.honigmond.de. Two
meti culousl y restored buildings wi th sparsel y furnished
rooms with original wooded floors makes for a homey feel.
The nearby Garden Hotel dependence (Invalidenstrae 122)
has a garden wi th a lawn and goldfish pond for frolicking
around in summer. Q24 rooms (singles 59 - 109, doubles
79 - 159). AG
Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz G-3, Alexanderplatz
7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 238 90,
berlin.hotel@rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn-berlin.
com. Towering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germanys
third-largest hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms are
all renovated and stocked with a coffeemaker and ironing board.
By far the best choice for the direction-impaired. Q1012 rooms
(318 singles 89 - 125, 671 doubles 89 - 125, 23 suites 130
- 185). Breakfast extra. POARFGKD hhhh
Scandic Potsdamer Platz E-4, Gabriele-Tergit-
Promenade 19, Mitte, MU Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-Park,
tel. +49 30 700 77 90, www.scandichotels.com. The
large hotel between Potsdamer Platz and lovel y Gleisdreieck
Park straddles the handy U2 metro line. Inside, its all about
eco-friendl y Scandinavian design; every floor has a season
theme that determines the look of the halls and the furniture
in the comfy rooms. No single-serving packaging in the
breakfast room; the honey is even produced in the bee hives
on the roof. The staff treats guests in a fresh, informal way,
and the hotel is perfect for disabled travellers, and children.
Free wifi. Q 561 rooms (doubles from 85, suites from 127).
PTHAULKDCW
Hotels
The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district
is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It's the
watering hole for adult students from all around the world
who are learning German at the GLS language school, in
the same complex. They're greatly helped by the location
of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood with plenty of
bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques.
Die Schule, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg,
tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de.
GLS language school, tel. +49 30 78 00 89 27,
www.gls-berlin.de.
Back to school at Die Schule
22
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23
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Berlin In Your Pocket October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Asian
Jolly F-3, Am Kupfergraben 4, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae,
tel. +49 30 20 05 95 01, service@restaurant-jolly.de, www.
restaurant-jolly.de. Opposite the Pergamon Museum, with
tourists, trams and S-Bahn trains gliding by the windows, Jolly
is a spacious and modern restaurant with delicious Cantonese
Chinese and Thai dishes. Specialities include dim sum and
Peking roast duck, served with pancakes and special sauce,
but theres also a wide variety of soups, and good portions
of stir-fried meals and Thai curries, with servings of fluffy rice.
QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. . AUBS
Kamala F-3, Oranienburger Strae 69, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97, www.kamala-
thaifood.de. Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial
atmosphere, where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned
with woven placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom
Yam Gai soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and
the curries are rich and buttery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. . AB
Manngo G- 2, Mul ackstrae 29, Mi tte, MU
Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 28 04 05 58, www.
manngo.de. A friendl y and deliciousl y enticing Vietnamese
with a small, perfectly formed menu and a curious collection of
Klimt artworks on the walls. The authentic curry, satay, spring
rolls and soups are very affordable, while fresh juices, Bia Hoi
and Saigon beer also up the ante. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat
13:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. . TANB
Monsieur Vuong G-2, Alte Schnhauser Strae 46,
Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 99 29 69
24, www.monsieurvuong.de. Hanoi and Sai gon have
landed in a chic little red Vietnamese restaurant in Mitte.
There are onl y five dishes and two dail y specials, but theyre
so delicious youll be ordering a second bowl of rice to soak
up the leftover sauce. After your gi bo, try some jasmin or
artichoke tea. Youll have to fight the ber-cool crowds for
a table as Mr. Vuong doesnt take reservations. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. . S
Van Long Reinhardtstrae 8, Mitte, MU Oranienburger
Tor, tel. +49 30 28 23 570, www.van-long.de. Best visited
for the wide range of Vietnamese specialities, from all parts
of the country, Van Long also has some tasty Thai options
served in a modest space decorated with Vietnamese art.
Try the specials such as the Cha Ca La Vong fish that you
finish grilling at your table, or the Lau chay clay pot with tofu
and vegetables. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. .
Austrian
Brecht Keller F-2, Chausseestrae 125, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282 38 43, www.
brechtkeller.de. The recipes served here are those of a busy
Austrian actress making do with East German ingredients,
so though decent, its not the Tafelspitz (rump steak) thats
famous, but the spirit of the place where playwright Berthold
Brecht and his actress wife Helene Weigel lived. The small
basement cellar is full of famil y photographs and original set
models of plays like Mother Courage. Also inside is what
could only be described as a romantic brick-lined lounge area.
A wall separates the terrace from the cemetery where the
couple are buried. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. . B
Beer houses
Gaffel Haus F-3, Dorotheenstrae 65, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 31 01 16 93, www.gaffel-
haus-berlin.de. Serving the famed Gaffel Klsch beer from
Cologne in the small glasses typical for that ci ty, Gaffel, a
large and authentic beer house serving tradi tional German
cuisine, li ves up to expectati ons. Tr y the Fooderplaat
snack plate wi th sausages and black pudding, the herring
filet or the roast beef, or the excellent Wiener Schni tzel.
On Friday after 17:00, drop by for the Eisbein (pi ckl ed
ham hock) special, which includes a beer and a glass of
Kabnes herb liqueur. When FC Kln plays on Sundays,
Gaffel is full of cheering fans. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. . B
Fast food
DomCurry F-3, Gendarmenmarkt 1 (Hilton hotel),
Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 202 30
44 55. Elevating fast food to a gatronomic experience,
the Hil ton allows you to style your own currywurst using
top-quali ty ingredients, right beside the Deutsche Dom
on Gendarmenmarkt. There are several types of sausage
(ostrich, eco, fish), sauces and bread to choose from. QOpen
11:00 - 18:00. .
Fine dining
Aigner F-3, Franzsische Strae 25, Mitte, MU
Franzsiche Strae, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, www.
aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. One of Berlins best places
to eat, Aigner is trul y international, as i ts name, concept
and all the old furnishings originate from a famous Viennese
caf that closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Bel tle
and his team serve award-winning dishes with ingredients
sourced fresh from the market. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. .
TUGBSW
Borchardt F-3, Franzsische Strae 47, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 81 88 62 62, www.
borchardt-restaurant.de. Borchardt didnt have to invest
much to make a good first impression - the mere height of
the ceiling and the buildings original tile floors whisper class
and luxury. The money and creative energy goes into the
kitchen, which comes up with a different menu each day to
keep its regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the
Germans, the beef dishes here are delectable. Q Open
from 11:00. . GB
Facil E-4, Potsdamer Strae 3, Tiergarten, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.
facil.de. At the Mandala Hotels Michelin-starred gourmet
restaurant, chef de cui si ne Mi chael Kempf creates
elegantl y light fare using onl y fresh, local products direct
from the market. The menu changes dail y and has an
emphasis on tasty vegetables and exotic herbs. Facils
design is a post-modern, glass-box Asian pavilion wi th a
large central skylight that retracts. QOpen . Closed Sat,
Sun. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
. UGBW h
Fischers Fritz F-3, Charlottenstrae 49, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.
fischersfritzberlin.com. The restaurants name comes
from a tongue-twister and the light, fish-focused menu is for
a very refined palate. Chef Christian Lohse has won several
of the Michelin stars that appear none too oft in Germany.
The German chef first trained in Dijon and has since pleased
gourmands such as those at The Dorchester in London and
the Sul tan of Brunei (as a private chef). The dining room has
light woods, deep carpets and a fireplace. Q Open 12:00-
14:00; 18:30-23:00. . PAG hh
Lutter & Wegner F-3, Charlottenstrae 56, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 202 95 40, www.l-w-
berlin.de. Classy, traditional, and with a link to the actor who
put the sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is the place
to share a bottle of Sekt before or after a concert at the
Konzerthaus on Gendarmenmarkt. Theres a warren of rooms
in which to carve out a cosy niche. Germans know their roasts,
and you can trust the national committee that dubbed the
Sauerbraten here the best in Germany in 2003. QOpen 11:00
- 03:00. Closed Sun. The warm kitchen closes at 01:00 while
the Weinstube serves cold dishes until 03:00. . AB
Margaux F-3, Unter den Linden 78, Mitte, MS/U
Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 22 65 26 11, www.
margaux-berlin.de. Try the rich cuisine by Chef Michael
Hoffmann at this Michelin-starred restaurant, which uses only
the best ingredients for a daily menu that is chosen by quality
of supplies. Fish are only line-caught, mostly in the Atlantic and
in Brandenburg. Save room for the French cheese plate. A good
way to sample the cuisine is the four- or seven-course dinner.
QOpen 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. . PAG h
Paris-Moskau E-3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten, MS/U
Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.paris-
moskau.de. Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof
assume this lonely and unusual half-timber house from 1898
is related to the railroad, as it sits along the tracks that link
Paris and Moscow, but the fine restaurant inside has more
connections to the Medi terranean. Dishes include stuffed
quail, steak with pumpkin and pike-perch. QOpen 18:00 -
open end. . A
Zum Nussbaum G-3, Am Nussbaum 3, Mitte, MU
Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242 30 95. What seems a
charming old restaurant is in fact a charming new restaurant.
The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used to stand on
Fischerinsel island, 200m to the southwest. When the
war-ravaged area was rebuil t in the 1980s, the inn was
reconstructed here. Most patrons dont care for authenticity,
and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities with curious
translations, such as brown rolls wi th dripping. Q Open
from 12:00. . GB
Zur Letzten Instanz G-3, Waisenstrae 14-16, Mitte,
MU Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242 55 28, www.
zurletzteninstanz.de. Berlins oldest restaurant doesnt lie
on the tourist path, and maybe thats why German leaders
bring visiting heads of state here when everything in Mitte is
too noisy and crowded. Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989,
and Gerhard Schrder brought Jacques Chirac over for the
Berlin specialities, including Eisbein, in 2003. QOpen 12:00
- 01:00. Closed Sun. . GBS
Pub and eatery in the historical centre of Berlin
We offer
fresh
regional
German
cuisine!
Groe Hamburger Strae 37
10115 Berlin
Tel.: 0049(0) 30 283 40 65
Fax: 0049(0) 30 285 99 860
E-mail: info@sophieneck-berlin.de
www.sophieneck-berlin.de
Visitors to Berlin can choose
from an increasing number
of excellent restaurants. In
this series of portraits we
introduce the chefs working
at the citys most renowned
restaurants. This issue we
speak to Tim Raue, a born
and bred Berliner involved
three restaurants in Berlin,
including the Sra Bua by
Tim Raue at the Hotel Adlon
Kempinski.
Whats special about the Sra Bua? We run a hip and
casual Asian restaurant thats di fferent in tone from
the other more formal venues at the Adlon Kempinski,
yet still top quality. I have full control at the restaurant;
I design the menu, check the quality and concept, and
have selected chefs that I trained and worked with before.
Just like Kempinskis Sra Bua restaurant in Bangkok, we
serve Asian food cooked with European methods and
influences. Here in Berlin, especially my curries have
proven to be very popular. The three-course Ruam Gan
menu consisting of several dishes per course can be
shared around the table and gives a very good idea of
the variety of tastes on offer.
Berlin has seen many quality restaurants open in
recent years, is there still space for more? Well,
we yet have to see how successful many of these new
openings will be, some already adjusted their concept
within months of opening. But Im convinced that there is
always space on the market for exciting new restaurants
that offer good cooking and an original approach that
appeals to customers.
How has your youth in Berlins tough Kreuzberg
district influenced the way you work? Not much
though it taught me early on to fight hard for what I
believe in.
Where do you like to eat out? I highly recommend the
new Cordobar wine bar, at Groe Hamburger Strasse
32 in Berlin-Mitte. Its a German-Austrian concept with
great wines and good food.
Meet the Chef
Photo Wolfgang Stahr
24
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Berlin In Your Pocket October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com
Ref ugium F-3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 2 29 16 61, www.restaurant-
refugium.de. Once a refuge for Huguenots fl eeing to
Germany, this elegant Baroque eatery beside the French
Church is indeed an excellent spot to escape the city. The
international cuisine - with hints of the orient - has dishes
that change by the season, such as codfish fillet or Asian
duck breast. Q Open from 11:00, ki tchen closes 23:30.
. UGBW
Sra Bua by Tim Raue Behrenstrae 72 (Hotel Adlon
Kempinski), Mitte, tel. +49 30 22 61 19 59, www.
kempinski.com/adlon. Sra Bua (Thai for Lotus Pond)
serves surprising Asian-inspired cuisine by Berlins star
chef Tim Raue. In a spacious dining room, try the extensive
a la carte options, or ask for the three-course Ruam Gan
shared menu, with several dishes per course. We particularl y
recommend the creamy/spi cy red curry, the marinated
salmon with grapefruit, the beef filet with ponzu soya jus and
the spicy tuna pizza with wasabi and daikon radish. Apart from
several types of sake, including a delicious clear masuizumi,
theres an impressive wine list. The friendl y waiters reall y
know their stuff, and can give personal recommendations
for the dishes and drinks. A separate bar serves amazing
cocktails, sochu and sake, and occasionall y features li ve
music. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. .
PALE
VAU F-3, Jgerstrae 54/55, Mitte, MU Franzsische
Strae, tel. +49 30 202 97 30, www.vau-berlin.de. Its
easy to spell and rhymes wi th wow, and the latter is the
word-of-mouth that has kept chef Kolja Kleebergs restaurant
full y booked for years. Using many products from the Berlin
area, Michelin-starred Kleeberg follows his mentor Josef
Viehhausers rule: never more than three products on a
plate. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30; 19:00-22:30. Closed Sun.
. PAG h
VOX E-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2, Tiergarten, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 53 17 02, www.berlin.
grand.hyatt.com. Hi ghl y-paid business travell ers from
New York, London, and Hamburg look quite at home in this
excellent, minimalist and high-ceiling restaurant in the Grand
Hyatt. Between the live jazz in the adjoining lounge and the
show kitchen, it makes for a see-and-be-seen evening, so
dont drop your sushi in your lap. The Vox bar is open from
18:00 and closes when guests decide. The kitchen is open
until 24:00. Breakfast on Saturday continues until 11:00 and
on Sunday until 14:00. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30; 12:00 - 14:30;
18:30 - 24:00. . PAEGB
Indian
Aapka G-2, Kastanienallee 50, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 04 94,
www.aapka.de. Located on a pretty street corner near
Zi onskirchplatz, Aapka offers heal thy vegetarian, curr y
and grill dishes. You can drop by for the lunch menu and
on Sunday join the young Prenzl Berg crowd for a relaxed
brunch - or drop by later for cocktails. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00,
Sun 11:00 - 01:00. . B
Mirchi F-2/3, Oranienburgerstrae 50, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 44 44 82, www.
amrit.de. Mirchi offers Indian and Singaporean fusi on
cui sine, tamed down to sui t the German pal ette, but
nevertheless pleasing. The Tageskarte lunch menu (until
17:00) is especiall y attracti ve, wi th vegetarian, chicken
and lamb options priced 4-7; in the evenings the selection
gets wider and dearer. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - open end. Also at (H-3) Oranienstr. 204, KB, tel.
61 62 99 93. . AB
International
Dressler F-3, Unter den Linden 39, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 204 44 22, www.restaurant-
dressler.de. 1920s Berlin lives on a bit here on the boulevard,
between Brandenburger Tor and the Komische Oper. Theres
Art Deco wooden paneling, large mirrors, and good bistro and
proper restaurant meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere.
Also in Charlottenburg at Kudamm 207. QOpen 08:00 -
01:00. . B
Ganymed F-3, Schiff bauerdamm 5, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 28 59 90 46, www.
ganymed-brasserie.de. Strolling along the Spree or after a
show at the beloved Berliner Ensemble, stop off at Ganymeds
historical rooms for Alsatian Flammkuchen, French choucroute
and beers, oysters, wines and the menu du soir. The
terrace has a view of the Spree and the trains pulling into
Friedrichstrasse station. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Ki tchen
from 12:00 until 24:00. . TUVGB
Nolas am Weinberg G-2, Veteranenstrae 9, Mitte,
MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www.
nola.de. This hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The
predominantl y Swiss menu lends itself to the terrace, which
is perfect for pretending to be in the mountain air of St. Moritz.
Breakfast is served until 16:00 and you can order meals until
midnight. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. . TUGBS
Oranium F-3, Oranienburger Strae 33-34, Mitte, MS
Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 30 88 29 67, www.
oranium.de. Just down the street from the Neue Synagoge,
Oranium is a pleasant all-day caf/restaurant/bar with plenty
of dark wood, a long bar and pretty lights. There are great
breakfasts (served until 16:00), lunches and good-value
dinner options. The menu is as international as it can get; for
something special try the chicken with strawberry/chili sauce.
Wash it all down with a cocktail or two. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. . TUGBSW
Rei nhar d s G- 3, Poststrae 28, Mi tte, MU
Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242 52 95, www.reinhards.
de. Reinhards friendl y staff can whisk a coffee to your table in
no time, or if youre here for the food, one of the light meals.
The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel, and is
well-positioned for a break during a city walk. QOpen 09:00
- 24:00. -. TGBS
Traube F-2, Reinhardtstrae 33, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-
berlin.de. In an elegant building from 1840, The Grape
serves gourmet cuisine together wi th an excellent range
of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: cross-over food
from southern Germany, Alsace, Swi tzerland and Austria.
Guests can choose from a la carte dishes or compose their
own menus, with or without wines. The two-course set lunch
menu is great value. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:00, Sat
18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . TGB
Italian
Al Contadino Sotto Le Stelle G-2, Auguststrae 36,
Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 281 90 23,
www.alcontadino.com. Be sure to book ahead at the
farmer beneath the stars, as this Italian restaurant is often
full. The good pastas, excellent lamb dishes and sweet
desserts are all worth a try. Their Mozzarella Bar next door
has small appetisers to eat in or take away, and is also a
deli with mozzarella and other Italian specialities. QOpen
18:00 - 24:00. . TUGBW
Japanese
Cocol o G- 2, Gi p s s t r ae 3, Mi t t e, MU
Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 172 304 75 84.
A compl etel y authenti c Japanese ramen noodl e soup
restaurant, complete with an open kitchen emitting clouds of
fragrant steam, cramped conditions on shared benches and
a line of hungry waiting guests. Start off with a bowl of sal ty
green beans, choose from five delicious broths, have an Asahi
beer and remember to slurp. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. . GB
Sushi Circle F-3, Franzsische Strae 48, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 650 60, www.
sushi-circle.de. This sushi bar caters less to the guests
of the upscale hotels in the area and more to shoppers and
office workers on the go. If youre not quick enough to grab
the pieces passing by on the bars conveyor bel t, be patient
and it will circle around again. If not, ask the sushi chef stuck
in the middle to whip a request off for you. QOpen 11:00 -
23:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. .
Turkish
Hasir G-3, Oranienburger Strae 4, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 04 16 16, www.hasir.
de. Dont let the Grand Bazaar-style hawker at courtyard
entrance put you off: the red marble entrance way leads
not to apple tea and a pile of carpets but to Europes best
Turkish restaurant for cuisine and service. The most upscale
restaurant of this Berlin chain prepares its many lamb dishes
either over a wood coal grill or within a stone oven. QOpen
11:30 - 00:30. Also at Adalbertstrae 10 in Kreuzberg, and
Maaenstrae10 in Schneberg. . PAB
Cafs
Barcomis Deli F-5, Sophienstrae 21, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 83 63, info@
barcomis.de, www.barcomis.de. Barcomis is well known
for i ts house-roasted coffee and luscious American hand-
made baked goods. In the cake window there are several
kinds of cheese cake, lemon meringue cake, devils food
cake, pecan pie and other heavenl y creations. Bagels can
be eaten wi th Phill y cream cheese spreads, and at this
Mi tte outlet there are also salads, sandwiches and soups.
The Kreuzberg Kaffeersterei outlet (Bergmannstrae 21)
has fresh coffee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
. TGBS
Sankt Oberholz G-2, Rosenthaler Strae 72a, Mitte,
MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 24 08 55 86, www.
sanktoberholz.de. A large two-floor caf overlooking the
busy street crossing. Something of a public workspace for
IT entrepreneurs from the surrounding Silicon Allee internet
startups, its the ideal place to crack open a Mac and get
some work done using the free wifi and electrici ty plugs.
Or just come for the coffee, bagels, muffins and New York
cheesecake. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat
09:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. GW
Sophieneck G-2/3, Groe Hamburger Strae 37, Mitte,
MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 283 40 65, www.
sophieneck-berlin.de. A favouri te of locals and tourists
alike, Sophieneck is one of the most charming cafs in Mitte.
Located near Hackescher Markt since the revamp of the
district in 1984, it has resisted trendification, staying true to
its warm mishmash decor of art nouveau and poster art. The
menu offers delicious Central European fare, accompanied
by an international wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 02:00.
Sophieneck
Kf er Dachgar ten F-3, Platz der Republik
1,Tiergarten, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49
30 22 62 99 33, www.feinkost-kaefer.de. When
time is money, you may as well spend it on a good meal
while visiting the Reichstag dome. Make a reservation
to be whisked up to your meal and a 180-degree view of
eastern Berlin. German specialities are highlighted and
a regional name appears in most main course listings.
Last orders are taken at 21:30. Bring ID to get into the
buidling. QOpen 09:00 - 10:15, 12:00-16:30, 18:30-
24:00. . AB
Panorama Caf E-4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80,
www.panoramapunkt.de. The 1930s-style caf at
the top of the popular Potsdamer Platz viewing point
has large windows and an open terrace with great views
over Berlin, and serves coffee, cakes and other snacks.
QOpen 11:00-19:00, from Nov 10:00-17:00. Tower
admission 5,50/4.
Sphere G-3, Panoramastrae 1a, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 247 57 58 75, www.
tv-turm.de. The TV towers rotating restaurant at 207
metres gives you a spin around the city in 30 minutes.
Soups, salads and light meals accompany your city tour,
with attractive dail y specials often the best choice. Do
make reservations, or wait for a table while circling the
observation level. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . E
Food with a view
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Bars
Aufsturz F-3, Oranienburger Strae 67, Mitte, MS
Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07,
kontakt@auf sturz.de, www.auf sturz.de. The great
19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt li ved in this
building, but nowadays the onl y expedi tions done here are
through the long drinks menu, listing dozens of excellent
Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak beer to
reall y kick off your night. Prices are reasonable and the
place looks good, wi th changing modern art exhibi tions
on the walls. Our favouri te Oranienburger Strae haunt. Q
Open from 12:00. EB
August II F-2, Auguststrae 2, Mitte, MS Oranienburger
Strae, www.augustthesecond.de. A sleek after-hours
long drinks and champagne bar, in subdued light and colours,
hung wi th a huge chandelier, backed by a top-class toilet
and elevated by unintrusive house music. It may look closed
but just ring the doorbell at the AII sign to be let in, and try
the Moscow Mule for a vegetarian drink with a kick. QOpen
20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Belushis Bar G-2, Rosa Luxemburg Strae 39-41,
Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 81 45
39 60, www.belushis.com/bars/berlin. Belushis is a
home away from home for sports fans, beer lovers, and
connoisseurs of delicious home-made burgers. Based on
the American sports bar, this friendl y chain pub especiall y
caters for English speakers and anyone who cant bear
to mi ss a cruci al match. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. .
TUENGBSW
Eschschloraque Rmschrmp G-3, Rosenthaler Strae
39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, post@eschschloraque.
de, www.eschschloraque.de. An island of insanity in a sea of
overpriced Hackescher Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights
and monsters can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffitied
courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from the
crumbling walls, affordable beers and cocktails, a stage, plenty
of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on having a
good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in the back yard
shows foreign films in original version. QOpen 14:00 - open end.
Open from 14:00. ENBW
Kumpelnest 3000 E-4, Ltzowstrae 23, Tiergarten,
MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 261 69 18, www.
kumpelnest3000.com. Stragglers of all sexual orientations
head here for a nightcap or one last drunken spin on the tiny
metal dance floor. The velvet paintings and carpeted walls
are fascinating after a couple of drinks, and so are the scruffy
patrons apparently: its known as a hook-up bar. QOpen , Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 19:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 09:00. NB
Mein Haus am See G-2, Brunnenstrae 197, Mitte,
MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 27 59 08 73, info@
mein-haus-am-see.com, www.mein-haus-am-see.
blogspot.de. Its all about seeing and being seen at some
Mi tte bars; the My Lake House makes i t very easy wi th
its large slope of seating steps overlooking a landscape of
granny furniture lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped
with nattering locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels.
Open 24/7, its a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time.
On the menu are drinks, exotic coffee varieties and chilli hot
choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers,
pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music. QOpen
24 hours. Open 24/7. . TUENGBSW
Newton Bar F-3, Charlottenstrae 57, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 29 54 21, www.
newton-bar.de. Men smoke cigars beneath Helmut Newtons
life-size shots of nude Amazons and their dates sip expertly made
cocktails. Dress sharp to compliment all the black leather and
dark green marble. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.
QIU Lounge E/F-4, Potsdamer Strae 3 (Mandala Hotel),
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00
00, qiu@themandala.de, www.qiu.de. A calm, sleek lounge
above the Mandala Hotels discreet entrance on Potsdamer
Strasse. You might spot a celeb, or the three million colours the
fringed lamps are said to display in changing chameleon fashion.
Their shade remains lily white during the day, when Mediterranean
lunches are served at the low-lying couches or at the bar. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. . TGW
Rei ngol d F- 2, Noval i sstrae 11, Mi tte, MU
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 38 76 76, info@
reingold.de, www.reingold.de. A lounge glowing in amber
tones recalls the thirties with an oversize drawing of Thomas
Manns forlorn offspring, Klaus and Erika, and leather and
vel vet seating. Though it often has a DJ, no one dances here.
Its a setting for making stationary moves on your date, or
your tapas. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB
Victoria Bar E-4, Potsdamer Strae 102, Tiergarten,
MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 25 75 99 77, www.
victoriabar.de. Grown-ups who appreciate a well-mi xed
cocktail make up the clientele of this retro-sleek bar. Slide
onto an oli ve-green banquette and let the wood panelled
walls evoke the times when you snuck drinks out of your
parents liquor cabinet. Happy hour is until 21:30. QOpen
18:30 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:30 - 04:00.
Clubs
Kaffee Burger G-2, Torstrae 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-
Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 28 04 64 95, www.
kaffeeburger.de. The patterned wallpaper and wood
panelling has withstood decades of the al ternative scenes
smoke and its stuck-in-the-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for
DJ/author Vladimir Kaminers wild and sweaty Russendisko
nights. Happenings like poetry slams and jams start evenings
that end with DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock
to samba. QOpen from 21:00. E
Roter Salon G-2, Volksbhne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2,
Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 417 175
12, www.roter-salon-berlin.de. This place probably began
with a faded elegance, but lets say its just settled in after ten
years of clubbers bouncing off its red walls. Most nights feature
electro pop, electro lounge, and electroclash - the music Berlin
is known for. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Tue, Sun.
Sage Club H-4, Kpenicker Strae 76, Mitte, MU
Heinrich-Heine-Strae, tel. +49 30 278 98 30, www.
sage-club.de. The drag queen managing the velvet ropes
may not be representative of the scene inside (button-down
shirts and tight tank-tops, all worn in the gender-specific way),
but youre welcome to dress cross-gender anyway. Rock, punk,
and metal duke it out on Thursday, while Friday and Saturday
bring out the house fans. Q Open Thu-Sun 23:00 - 05:00.
Week-End Club G-3, Alexanderplatz 5, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, www.week-end-berlin.de. A club, bar,
gallery and lounge set on the 12th floor of the beautifull y
hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel agency
specialising in saying no) on the corner of Otto-Braun-Strae.
Q Open Thu-Sat 23:00-04:00.
Dance
Clrchens Ballhaus F/G-2, Auguststrae 24, Mitte,
MS Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 282 92 95,
www.ballhaus.de. Whether you dance or not, Clrchens
is a fantastic night out. One of the oldest dance houses in
Berlin, people have been dancing their socks off here since
1913. Come salsa on Monday, tango on Tuesday, or swing on
Wednesday, all with free admission. The legendary weekend
Schwoof parties (5) come with live dance band. German
food and pizza are served until 23:30. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. .
Pubs
Kilkenny Irish Pub G-3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte,
MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84, mail@
kilkenny-pub.de, www.kilkenny-pub.de. The three large
rooms withing the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station offer
more than enough space for nati ves and tourists to eat
homemade food, meet and mingle, party and follow li ve
sports events. Large TVs and screens make sure that you
wont miss a single goal. Irish and German beer, whiskey and
other cold beverages flow freel y. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Sun 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. EGBW
Oscar Wilde F-2, Friedrichstrae 112a, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282 81 66, oscar_wilde_
irish_pub@hotmail.com, www.oscar-wilde-irish-pub.de.
A brash, large, Irish pub that fills up with expats and visitors
whenever theres a football rolling over some foreign field.
Its big screen shows Sky Sports, Premiership, Champions
League and mixture of international sport, while the kitchen
churns out Irish food, including all-day breakfast, and a menu
that changes every week. Every Friday and Saturday theres
live music, and every second Friday a wild karaoke party;
Monday night is quiz night. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu
16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. E
Kilkenny Irish Pub
Soda Club
Soda
Club
House - RnB - Soul
Danceclassics - electro
KulturBrauerei
Club Bar Live & DJs
Kaffee Burger, well known through Wladimir
Kaminers Russian Disco, offers events, concerts
and djs late into the night, 7 days a week.
Sun-Thu 1 Weekends 5
Kaffee Burger | Torstrae 58-60, 10119 Berlin
www.kaffeeburger.de
Nightlife
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Landmarks
Brandenburger Tor F-3, Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U
Brandenburger Tor. Berlins landmark monument is one
of 14 ci ty gates compl eted in 1792 by Carl Langhans.
Nike, the goddess of vi ctor y, dri ves the four-horsepower
chari ot atop the gate. German armi es used to begin their
parades here, the fascists spoil ed the gate by staging
their torch-li t parades through i t, the war badl y damaged
i t, and then the Wall essentiall y bri cked the patched-up
gate in for decades. Berliners cel ebrated the Walls fall
in 1989 by standing on i t in front of the gate, and after
renovati ons the gate i s the proud focus point of the
renewed square again.
Gendarmenmarkt F-3, Markgraf enstrae, Mitte,
MU Franzsische Strae. Twin cathedral s-turned-
museums (dating to the earl y 1700s), the Konzerthaus
(from 1818, by Carl Langhans) and a row of l uxur y
hotel s make up thi s classi c square. The name stems
from the mi d-1700s when mi l i tar y regi ments were
stati oned here.
Neue Synagoge F-3, Oranienburger Strae 28-30,
Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83
00, www.centrumjudaicum.de. The gilded cupola of the
New Synagogue is one of the most eye-catching si ghts in
Mi tte. Exhibi ts strikingl y balance the restorati on of the
Alhambra-inspired synagogue from 1866, wi th preserved
evidence of i ts destructi on, first on Kristallnacht on
November 9, 1938, and then through Alli ed bombs.
Documents and photographs remember the thri ving
Jewish communi ty of the nei ghbourhood, many of whom
worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue in
Germany. A subtl e but effecti ve sound installati on adds
to the experience. Q Open Sun, Mon 10:00- 20:00, Tues-
Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct until 14:00
on Fri; Nov-Feb al so Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat cl osed.
Admissi on 3,50/3.
Nikolaiviertel G-3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte, MU
Klosterstrae, www.stadtmuseum.de. Berlins tiny
medi eval hear t is the Nikolai Quar ter, whose onl y trul y
medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche. The
church dates to 1230 and was rebuil t along with the entire
quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlins 750th birthday in
the area in which the fishermens settlement first began.
No one was trying to outdo Wal t Disney here, and many
of the buildings have the simple, concrete facades that
the GDR government could afford. The small shops in the
area mostl y deal in toys and souvenirs and tourists gladl y
fill the sunny tables at the restaurants that face the river.
On Rathausstrae, theres a row of restaurants that flaunt
old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuil t
historic buildings in the area date to the 1700s, such as the
Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing
exhibits related to Berlin.
Potsdamer Platz E/F-4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thri ving
metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavil y damaged in the
war, and suffered again when most remaining buildings
were demolished to make way for the Walls death strip.
Hotel and offi ce skyscrapers now add a cosmopoli tan
edge to the ci ty, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost
rebuil t. The most popular public space and archi tectural
attraction is the Sony Center, wi th i ts huge atrium and
tent-like roof, best vi ewed at ni ght for i ts impressi ve
li ghting. The nei ghbouring DaimlerChrysler complex
holds archi tecture by Renzo Piano and Ri chard Rogers,
and the Arkaden shopping mall.
Reichstag F-3, Platz der Republik 1, Tiergarten, MU
Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/htdocs_e/visits. The
name together wi th i ts monumental size make most people
associate Germanys neoclassical parliamentary building
wi th the Nazis, but they have li ttle history here. After hosting
parliamentary sessions since 1894, i t was set on fire just
one month after Hi tler was appointed chancellor in January
1933. I t was a conference centre in the years during which i t
abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famousl y wrapped
i t in cloth. I t was used as parliament again after a reuni ted
German government returned to Berlin in 1999. Renovated
by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps the most
public federal building in the world through i ts glass dome.
On the rooftop, photographs documenting the buildings
history circle the rim above the parliament chamber. Two
ramps spiral up the side of the dome, an engineering feat
even more fascinating than the panoramic view from the
top. I ts best to book an entry time to the dome or for the
90-minute guided tour of the building in advance online;
otherwise queue up for remaining places at the visi tor
centre just across the road. Photo ID is required. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. Prebooked rooftop access every 15 minutes.
Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00,
18:30, 20:00. Admission free.
Attractions
Madame Tussauds F-3, Unter den Linden 74, Mitte,
MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 180 554 58 00,
www.madametussauds.com/berlin. The popular Berlin
outlet of the famous Madame Tussauds exhibition has wax
lookalike statues of German and international celebri ties
ranging from Angela Merkel, Boris Becker, Albert Einstein, Will
Smith and J-Lo to George Clooney. Book online for discounts
and VIP tickets that allow you to skip the queue; cheaper
tickets are sold online for admission after 16:00. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00. Admission 21/16.
Churches
Berliner Dom G-3, Am Lustgar ten, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36, www.
berlinerdom.de. The fourth incarnation of this Protestant
church dating from 1905 might not look as massive if the
Stadtschloss were still standing across Unter den Linden
(the GDR regime demolished the castle in 1951). The royal
Hohenzollern dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The
climb up to the domes rim is forgiving, with broad staircases,
side exhibit rooms and good views. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission
7/4.
Deutscher Dom F-3, Gendarmenmarkt 1, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www.bundestag.
de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/wege. The
baroque German Church from 1701 was completed with an
impressive domed tower in 1785; badl y damaged by fire in
the war it was onl y renovated in the 1980s. Owned by the
state, the bare interior now houses an exhibition about the
development of parliamentarian democracy in Germany - and
how it came to fail so tragicall y in the last century. Be sure to
see the views from the windows and the impressive building
models on the top floor. Free tours in English are possible
throughout the day; no booking is required for indi vidual
visitors. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Franzsischer Dom F-3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte,
MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 64 99 22, www.
franzoesischer-dom.de. The northernmost domed tower
in the Gendermenmarkts grand architectural triptych dates
back to 1785, and similarl y to i ts counterpart was badl y
damaged in the war. It now has regular concerts in the simple
baroque Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the
other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and French
onl y), dedicated to the thousands of French protestants who
moved to Berlin in the 17th century. Yet another entrance
leads to the viewing balcony at 40 metres above street level,
with great views all around. Q Open 12:00-17:00, viewing
balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon. Admission 2/1, viewing
balcony 2.50/1.
Memorials
Fhrerbunker F-3, In den Ministergrten, Mitte, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz. No educational historic plaques mark the
site where Hitler committed suicide on April 30, 1945. For the
last month of his life, Hitler lived roughl y eight meters below
ground in an air-raid shel ter topped by a four-metre-thick,
reinforced concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be
reached by walking to the end of In den Ministergrten, off
Ebertstrae. A parking area surrounded by a pre-fabricated
apartment complex covers the location, which was entirel y
sealed off during the complexs construction in 1988-89. The
bunker was once accessed through the Festsaal (ballroom)
behind the Reichskanzler-Palais on Wilhelmstrae.
The physical division of Berlin during 28 years, and
the development of two completely separated cities
on both sides of the Wall that ran between them, has
led to huge di fferences that cannot be erased in a
matter of a few years. Key sights relating to this era
are the Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer in Prenzlauer
Berg, Checkpoint Charlie in Mitte with the Haus am
Checkpoint Charlie Wall museum, BlackBox Cold
War, Wall Panorama and Stasi exhibition, and the
Trnenpalast, the former border crossi ng besi de
Friedrichstrae station. Get insights into daily GDR life at
the DDR Museum in Mitte and the Museumswohnung
WBS 70 out in the suburbs.
Cold War Berlin
Wilhelmstrae, the centre of government in Prussia,
continued to be so under Nazi rule. Between Unter den
Linden and todays Niederkirchnerstrae, the only non-
Reich structure in 1936 was the British Embassy, which
still holds its ground today in a modern building. The
sole remaining example of fascist architecture is the
former Reichsluftfahrtministerium (Air Force Ministry)
built in 1935 by Ernst Sagebiehl. The grey building that
once struck fear into the heart of Londoners is now the
Finance Ministry. Hitlers New Reichs Chancellory
stood on Vostrae but was demolished after the war.
Not to let the red marble of its obnoxiously long hallway
go to waste, the Russians lined the nearby Mohrenstrae
U-Bahn station with it. The center of Nazi terror was on
Prinz-Albrecht-Strae, todays Niederkirchnerstrae. The
Topography of Terror exhibit explains the functions of
the various offices including the SS and Gestapo - that
once occupied the site.
Third Reich Berlin
With over 450 exhibits from private
collections this permanent exhibition
provides general insight into Dals virtuous
mastery in almost all art techniques,
in Berlins lively city centre.
www.DaliBerlin.de
Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75** (0700DaliBerlin)
Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de
(**0,14 /Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max
0,42 /Min.) |*only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot
be combined with other offers. Valid until November, 30th 2013. H

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International museum
opened daily: mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.
sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.
Potsdamer Platz
entrance:
Leipziger Platz 7
Sightseeing
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Berlin In Your Pocket October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe F-3,
Cora-Berliner-Strae 1, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger
Tor, tel. +49 30 26 39 43 36, besucherservice@
stif tung-denkmal.de, www.stif tung-denkmal.de.
Thi s bluntl y named memorial avoi ds any vagueness
surrounding the term Hol ocaust. Si x milli on Jews are
estimated to have been kill ed by the Nazis and this si te
serves as Germanys national memorial to those vi ctims.
The desi gn by Ameri can archi tect Peter Eisenmann is
a fi eld of 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of var ying
hei ght, creating an undulating landscape that fills two
ci ty blocks. The memorial has an undergound information
centre whi ch is not sui tabl e for children. Q Informati on
centre open 10:00-20:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-19:00. Cl osed
Mon. Admissi on free.
Museums
Black Box Cold War F-4, Friedrichstrae 47,
Mi tte, tel . +49 30 216 35 71, i nf o@bf gg. de,
www.bf gg.de. The exhi bi ti on at Checkpoint Charli e
di scusses the state of the worl d during the Col d War,
expl ai ni ng the gl obal l i nks bet ween the Berl i n Wal l ,
the Korean War and the Cuban mi ssil e cri si s. Al ong
the street a free gall er y of photos and texts hi ghli ghts
the main events that took place here. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Admi ssi on 5/3,50.
Dal - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz F-4,
Leipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
tel. +49 700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.de.
The Spanish master of surreal, Sal vador Dal, left a rich
heri tage of amazing artworks when he went to mol ten-
watch land himsel f. Over 450 exhibi ts can be viewed at
this permanent exhibi tion near Postdamer Platz. See true
genius and craftsmanship in the many paintings, sketches,
books, films, obj ects, and documents that are on show
here. English-language tours can be booked in advance.
QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admissi on
11/9, tours 6.
Deutsches Historisches Museum F-3, Unter
den Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel.
+49 30 20 30 40, fuehrung@dhm.de, www.dhm.de.
Whod have thought to l ook for a Prussian war chest in
thi s earl y 18th-centur y buil ding si t ting pret t y-in-pink
by the Spree? Thi s former arsenal houses the German
Hi stor y Museum, wi th i ts dazzling extensi on desi gned
by archi tect IM Pei. Engli sh tours on Fridays at 14:00.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admissi on 8/4. Free for visi tors
under 18.
Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall
Memori al ) F- 2, Bernauer Strae 111 & 119,
Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467 98 66
66, inf oberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.
berliner- mauer- gedenkstaette.de. The excel l ent
nati onal memorial si te for the di vided Germany has a
documentati on centre covering the Berlin Walls histor y
in text, slides and dramati c film footage. An unscathed
secti on of Wall runs al ong the street; walk behind i t to
peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear wall to
see a preser ved secti on of death strip as i t l ooked in
the 1980s, compl ete wi th a patrol road, wires and a
watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation
is buil t on the spot of a church demolished to make way
for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for
several more open-air exhibi tions. Q Open 09:30-19:00,
Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon cl osed (outdoor exhibi ti on
open 24hrs). Admissi on free.
Gemldegalerie E-4, Matthikirchplatz 8, Tiergarten,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42,
service@smb.museum, www.smb.museum. Berlins
largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works spanning
the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters include Drer,
Cranach the Elder, and Holbein. The Italian works of Botticelli,
Titian, Raphael and others are from the 13th to 16th century,
those of the Dutch from the 15th and 16th centuries. The
Rembrandt collection, one of the worlds largest, has 16
works. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 8/4.
Hamburger Bahnhof E-2, Invalidenstrae 50-51,
Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 39 78 34
11, hbf@smb.spk-berlin.de, www.hamburgerbahnhof.
de. Berlins wonderful modern art museum is situated in a
converted train station. Its well worth a visit by those curious
about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of animal fat
(Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fixated by bars of neon
lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel Duchamp are
the other familiar stars of this post-1960s collection. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 10/5.
Museum fr Film und Fernsehen (Film and TV
Museum) E-4, Potsdamer Strae 2 (Sony Center),
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 300
90 30, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. Hooray for
Holl ywood, but remember that some of the personali ties
that gave it glamour and style came from Germany. Actors
Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors Bill y Wilder and
Josef von Sternberg came out of a country with a strong
film-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set designs and
costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and exhibi ts
on Leni Riefenstahls shooting of Ol ympia (1936) and Nazi
entertainment cq propaganda films will impress seen-that
film buffs. The museum ends with special effects and science
fiction. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 6/4,5
Museum fr Naturkunde (Natural Histor y
Museum) F-2, Invalidenstrae 43, Mitte, MU
Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85 91, info@
mfn-berlin.de, www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. All
the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection
illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and
beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world
towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere theres
the aardvarks, the earl y 20th-century dioramas, meteorites,
the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird
Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla
Bobby from the primates hall. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3,50.
Neue Nationalgalerie E-4, Potsdamer Strae 50,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42
42 42, www.smb.museum. Youd think that the art world
had gone to minimalist extremes when passing Mies van
der Rohes empty glass box of a museum; the 20th century
treasures are all underground. The marvellous permanent
collection features Otto Dix, George Grosz, Paul Klee, Wassily
Kandinsky, Picasso and Leger, among others. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 8/4. Temporary exhibitions extra.
Samml ung Bor os (Bor os Col l ecti on) F- 3,
Reinhardstrae 20, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae,
tel. +49 30 27 59 40 65, info@sammlung-boros.de,
www.sammlung-boros.de. A showpi ece M1200-type
bunker from 1941, previousl y used for fruit storage and as
an infamous techno and fetish club, is now the private art
gallery of advertising executive Christian Boros and his wife,
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic
buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree offers the
avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of impres-
sive collections of art, history and ethnology, covering
many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as well as
their cross-overs into modernity.
Alte Nationalgalerie G-3, Bodestrae 1-3, Mitte,
MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42
42, www.smb.museum. Czanne, Rodin, Monet,
Degas and Liebermann are some of the artists whose
works hang around this museum of 19th-century art.
The temple-like structure i tsel f was buil t in 1876, and
is surrounded by a beauti full y battered col onnade.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/5.
Altes Museum G-3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.
smb.museum. This neoclassic building by Prussias
star archi tect Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for
the art collection of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical
antiquities were the focus, and today the museum uses
pottery and sculptures to take you on a well-presented
tour through ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/5.
Bode-Museum G-3, Am Kupfergraben 1, Mitte,
MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42
42, www.smb.museum. The opulent Bode Museum
presents a variety of beauti ful artefacts, ranging from
sculpture and European painting coll ecti ons, many
religious and/or morbid, to the Byzantine wing, which
offers insight into the dail y li fe of a disappeared cul ture.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/5.
Neues Museum G-3, Bodestrae 1-3, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.
smb.museum. Buil t in 1855, damaged in the war and
onl y restored in 2009, the New Museum is new again
and is full of ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum
and Papyrus Collection are housed here, with spectacular
finds such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and
King Echnaton. The Pre- and Earl y History collection
has finds from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval
Germany. One room exhi bi ts el even redi scovered
statues that were considered to be degenerate art by
the Nazis. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Admission 12/6.
Pergamon Museum G-3, Am Kupfergraben, Mitte,
MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42,
www.smb.museum. The Pergamon has the best of
Berlins classical antiquities: the Greek Pergamon Al tar,
the market gate of Miletus and the blue-tiled Ishtar Gate
and processional way from Babylon. The Pergamon Altars
enormous frieze depicts the battle between the gods and
the giants, with gals like Athena, Aphrodite and Artemis
wiping out their opponents like robed Charlies Angels.
Near-East antiquities, with an emphasis on Assyria and
Iran, and Islamic art round out the museums treasure
chest. The audioguide has an instructi ve 30-minute
highlights tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Admission 12/6.
Museumsinsel
EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR
Checkpoint Charlie
Friedrichstrae 47 / corner Zimmerstrae | 10117 Berlin-Mitte
Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Visitors service info@bfgg.de
More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de
HERE, CONTEMPORARY HISTORY COMES ALIVE
32
MITTE
33
MITTE
Berlin In Your Pocket October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com berlin.inyourpocket.com
who li ve in the penthouse apartment on top. I ts full of
wonderful modern art, including a tree by Ai Wei Wei, celeb
photos by Wolfgang Tillman and a runaway popcorn machine
that is slowly filling up a room. The excellent English-language
guided tours need to be booked online. QOpen 16:00 - 20:00,
Fri 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 10.
Trnenpalast F-3, Reichstagufer 17, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 46 77 77 90, berlin@hdg.de,
www.hdg.de/berlin. The Border Experiences exhibition
highlights the everyday reality of the border running through
Berlin. The glass pavilion beside Friedrichstrae station was
the main border crossing between West and East Berlin
between the 1960s and 1990. Trains from West Berlin arrived
here, separate from the East German platform, and arrivals
were checked, searched, regularl y humiliated, and required
to exchange 25 marks. Those visiting famil y and friends in
the East may never see them again, hence the name Palace
of Tears. Sui tcases of memories tell the stories of GDR
emigrants, escapees and returnees; maps show the planning
of the implementation of the Wall, photos recall the political
tensions that saw US and Soviet tanks face each other in
October 1961, and there are videos of a lady working in the
Intershop duty free kiosk and a glum border guard, indignant
that the Wall (and his job) didnt last 100 years as promised.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission free.
Wall Panorama F-4, Friedrichstrae 205, Mitte, tel.
+49 30 695 80 86 12, www.asisi.de. The round structure
near Checkpoint Charlie houses an incredibl y detailed 60
by 15 metre panoramic painting of the Berlin Wall and its
scruffy surroundings as i t looked in the mid-1980s. The
artist Yadegar Asisi has captured the everyday banality of
the Wall with fascinating small scenes of life, on both sides
of the devide. English tours daily at 11:30 and 14:30. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00. Admission 10/8.50.
Viewpoints
Fernsehturm (TV tower) G-3, Panoramastrae 1a,
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.tv-turm.de. The
skewered disco ball on the tower peering over rooftops
certainl y brings a level of humour to Berlins skyline. The
368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in 1969,
70m higher than the Eiffel tower and the tallest building in
Germany, has an observation deck and the Sphere restaurant
with a rotating floor. Photos point out the landmarks for you.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Admission 12/7,50.
Hi - Fl yer Bal l oon F- 4, Wi l hel mstrae, corner
Zimmerstrae, Mitte, MU Kochstrae, tel. +49 30
226 67 88 11, www.air-service-berlin.de. Board the
large helium balloon near Potsdamer Platz to enjoy excellent
views floating 150 metres above central Berlin. The balloon
is tethered to the ground with a steel cable, ensuring you
land on the same spot 15 minutes later. On very windy days
call ahead to check i ts in service. No advance bookings;
departures every 15 minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Nov-
Mar 11:00-18:00. Tickets 19/13.
Books
Berlin Story F-3, Unter den Linden 40, Mitte, MS/U
Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 20 45 38 42, www.
berlinstory.de. Thousands of Berlin-themed books as well
as T-shirts and souvenirs. The knowledgeable staff can find
and order (or write) any Berlin book youre looking for. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Department stores
Alexa Centre G-3, Grunerstrae 20 (Alexanderplatz),
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34
00, www.alexacentre.com. A mall at the eastern end
of Alexanderplatz square, with five floors and 180 shops,
restaurants and cafs. Theres a massive kids area with a
cinema and the LOXX model train exhibition. Q Open Mon-Sat
10:00-21:00, lower level from 08:00. Food court also open
Sun 11:00-19:00. LOXX open dail y 10:00-19:00.
Galeries Lafayette F-3, Friedrichstrae 76-78, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 94 80, www.lafayette-
berlin.de. The 1990s rebirth of Friedrichstrae wouldnt have
been possible without this posh French department store.
Architect Jean Nouvels building has a fabulous gaping glass
funnel in the centre. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Quartier 206 F-3, Friedrichstrae 71, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 94 65 00, www.quartier206.
de. Berlins desi gn and li festyl e depar tment store par
excellence in three interlinked street blocks. An elegant,
cosmopolitan world of shopping on with international designer
fashion, accessories, popular labels, cosmetics, jewellery and
more. QOpen 10:30 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Fashion & Shoes
Adidas Originals G-2/3, Mnzstrae 13, Mitte, MU
Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 27 59 43 81, www.
adidas.de. Adidas flagship store in Mittes trendiest shopping
street has a sleek grey and white industrial look, and stocks
the top products of the famed German brand, including
retro sneakers and i tems that cant be found elsewhere.
Take a seat in a barber chair to design your own shoes on
the mi adidas screens. The selection of products on offer
is changed often, making regular visits worthwhile. QOpen
11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Bag Ground G-2, Gipsstrae 23b, Mitte, MU
Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 27 58 31 77, info@
bag-ground.com, www.bag-ground.de. Classic, daring,
cute and affordabl e quali ty handbags from a variety of
German and international designers. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
Comme des Garons F-2, Linienstrae 115, Mitte,
MS Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 09 58 80,
www.comme-des-garcons.com. Chic Japanese design;
fashion in the Black Shop and accessories next door. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
East Berlin Supply Store G-2, Alte Schnhauser
Strae 33/34, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel.
+49 30 24 72 41 89, www.eastberlinstore.com. Put
that Prussian eagle on your chest in cotton, or wrap an East
Berlin bel t around your waist. You wont find these T-shirt,
bag or jewellery designs anywhere else, and many make
cool references to Berlin. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Sun.
Onitsuka Tiger G-2, Alte Schnhauser Strae 20-
22, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 24
63 21 03, www.onitsukatiger.com. In a remarkabl e
ambi ence of hi gh quali ty materials and exci ting desi gn,
combining tradi ti onal and modern Japan, Oni tsuka Ti ger
presents the full variety of i ts Japanese shoe and apparel
coll ecti ons. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 19:00.
Cl osed Sun.
Skoda Mulackstrae 8, Mitte, MU Rosa Luxemburg
Platz, tel. +49 30 400 418 84, www.claudiaskoda.
com. Claudia Skoda is the German designer who convinces
even the thrifty that sometimes a dress is worth 450. Her
form-fitting knit tops and dresses shimmer with acetate this
season. Women with long torsos are especiall y in luck here.
Men can choose from sweaters. QOpen 11:30 - 19:30.
Closed Sun.
Markets
Berliner Trdelmarkt D-3, Strae des 17. Juni,
Tiergar ten, MS Tiergar ten, tel. +49 30 26 55
00 96, www.berliner-troedelmarkt.de. Most of the
vendors at thi s anti ques and craf t market are well-
organi sed, maki ng fi ndi ng that door handl e, French
glass vase, Turki sh kilim, or amber necklace more of a
shopping than a rummaging experi ence. Q Open Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Kunst und Nostalgiemarkt F-3, Am Kupfergraben,
Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae. Lining the way to the
Pergamon Museum are canal-side stalls carrying crafts
and souvenirs including red-and-green Ampelmnnchen
products. QOpen , Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Open Sat, Sun
11:00 - 17:00.
Panoramapunkt E- 4, Potsdamer Pl at z 1,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30
25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt.de. I t takes
just 20 seconds on Europes fastest elevator to get
shot up to Berlins best viewpoint, on the 24th and
25th floor of this red brick skyscraper. Archi tect Hans
Kollhoffs magni ficent 1930s-inspired building refers to
New Yorks skyscraping glory days but also resembles
the Berlin bear, complete wi th a golden crown. On the
top floors theres a short film and an exhibi tion about
the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square, which
went from a world-class entertainment district to a Wall-
di vided wasteland and back again wi thin a generation.
The caf and rooftop terrace offer great close-up views
of Berlins highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the Holocaust
memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall zone and
Tiergarten park. On lazy summer days, closing time is
postponed for sunset. QOpen 10:00-20:00, from Nov
10:00-18:00. Admission 5,50/4.
Panoramapunkt
Landesarchiv Berlin
Shopping
Opening hours:
Platform: 10:00-20:00
Caf: 11:00-19:00
Shorter opening hours during winter
360 PANORAMIC VIEW EXHIBITION CAF
WITH THE FASTEST ELEVATOR IN EUROPE
TO THE BEST
VIEWS OF BERLIN
O i h :
Potsdamer Platz 1 www.panoramapunkt.de
Exhibition
Views
of Berlin
35
CHARLOTTENBURG & THE WEST
October - November 2013 berlin.inyourpocket.com
34
CHARLOTTENBURG & THE WEST
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Over 200
Ellington Hotel D-4, Nrnberger Strae 50-55,
Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30
68 31 50, contact@ellington- hotel.com, www.
ellington-hotel.com. Set in a beauti ful 1920s building
near Kurfrstendamm and named after the American jazz
legend, the Ellingtons rooms have clean, understated and
elegant design, wi th the Tower Sui tes offering great views.
The Duke hotel restaurant serves up international cuisine
in fabulous surroundings, and has regular jazz brunches.
Q285 rooms (singles 108 - 238, doubles 118 - 248,
sui tes 168 - 428). PJHARUFLK
Htel Concorde Berlin C-4, Augsburger Strae 41,
Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 800
99 90, concordeberlin@concorde-hotels.com, www.
concorde-hotels.com/concordeberlin. The French-run,
11-story Concorde impresses with sleekly designed rooms with
fine woods, contemporary art and fantastic views from the upper
floors. The curved corner suites have sliding walls and elegant
free-standing bathtubs. Q311 rooms (singles 230 - 280,
doubles 240 - 300, 44 suites 280 - 950). Breakfast extra.
InterConti nental D- 4, Budapester Strae 2,
Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30
260 20, berlin@interconti.com, www.interconti.com.
Near transport options, the Zoo and Tiergarten park, the
InterContinental offers quiet nights in modern and spacious
rooms, and conference facili ties wi th intelligent business
solutions. After work, theres gourmet food at Hugos and
li ve music at the Marlene Bar. Further relaxation options can
be found in the large spa complex, wi th several saunas and
fi tness facili ties. Q558 rooms (498 singles 165 - 350,
498 doubles 170 - 400, 60 sui tes 215 - 2500). Breakfast
extra. PTHAUFLEGBKDCW hhhhh
Kempinski Bristol C- 4, Kur fr stendamm 27,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88
43 40, reservations.bristol@kempinski.com, www.
kempinskiberlin.de. The elite Kempinski and Adlon are sister
properties, but this is where well-travelled regulars feel more
at home - out of the limelight, but still in upmarket lodgings
on a swank corner of Kudamm. Q301 rooms (249 singles
265 - 326, 249 doubles 322 - 447, 52 suites 470 - 1800).
Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
Palace D-4, Budapester Strae 45, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20,
hotel@palace.de, www.palace.de. Near the Europa
Center shops and the zoo, gourmands feast at the First
Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in the conference
rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak panelling and
fireplaces. The staidl y furnished rooms are large. Q239
rooms (59 singles 200 - 300, 191 doubles 225 - 325,
32 sui tes 325 - 2150). PHARUFLGKDC
hhhhh
Savoy Berlin C-4, Fasanenstrae 9-10, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 31 10 30,
info@hotel-savoy.com, www.hotel-savoy.com. Utterl y
un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-flavoured abode once made
Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy guest. Who knows
who youll trade smoke rings with in the cigar shop near the
clubby Times Bar. Q125 rooms (45 singles 142 - 222, 62
doubles 152 - 232, triples 192 - 272, 16 suites 202 - 292).
ARFKD hhhh
Swisstel Berlin C-4, Augsburger Strae 44,
Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 22 01
00, emailus.berlin@swissotel.com, www.swissotel-berlin.
com. Every room here has a Lavazza espresso machine and
suites are cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos. When youre
done playing in your room, downtown western Berlin beckons. Youll
never want to go home. Q316 rooms (219 singles 160 - 310,
219 doubles 160 - 310, 14 suites 310 - 480, 11 junior suite
260 - 410). Breakfast 21. PHARFLGD hhhhh
Waldorf Astoria C-4, Hardenbergstrae 28, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 814 00 00, www.
waldorfastoriaberlin.com. Berlins newest luxury hotel, 118
metres high, occupies a prime spot near Kurfrstendamm and
the Kadewe department store in western Berlin. Honouring its
grand New York heritage, its decorated in lavish Art Deco style,
with artworks and decoration in the spacious rooms, and a caf
and bar with a 1920s Berlin theme. The library on the 15th floor
with its concierge and great views is a comfortable place to relax.
The Les Solistes restaurant run by star chef Pierre Gagnaire offers
fine dining and 650 wines. Q 232 rooms (doubles from 250).
PHAUFLGKDCwW
150-200
Berlin Plaza C-4, Knesebeckstrae 63, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 41 30, inf o@
plazahotel.de, www.plazahotel.de. The Plaza has elegantly
simple rooms equipped with all modern conveniences, such
as allergy-free bedlinen and free wi-fi. The in-house Knese
restaurant has solid tradi ti onal Berlin cui sine, and an
attractive terrace. Q131 rooms (singles 80 - 150, doubles
79 - 180, triples 105 - 200). HLGKW
Bleibtreu C-4, Bleibtreustrae 31, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 47 40, info@bleibtreu.
com, www.bleibtreu.com. Its hard to tell the hip guests
from the hip neighbours that share the deli and caf fronting
the boutique-lined street. The designer rooms operate
by remote-control but are furnished using allergy-friendl y,
ecological, natural fabrics and furni ture. Q60 rooms (15
singles 115 - 157, 45 doubles 125 - 182). ARGK
I f downtown to you means wi de, traf fi c-fill ed streets,
crowds of shoppers, fi ve-star hotels and tall buil dings,
then Charl ottenburg comes cl osest to fi tting the bill in
Berlin. Left as a ruin after the war, the ruined Kaiser-
Wilhelm-Gedchtniskirche church is the nexus of acti v-
i ty. Between i t and Zool ogischer Garten station, over a
billion euros is being invested in impressi ve hi ghrises,
hotels and of fi ces. Foll ow what becomes an increas-
ingl y silken ri bbon down Kur frstendamm (Kudamm)
and the setting becomes more genteel. West Berlins
young scene meets in the bars and cafs branching
of f Savi gnyplatz, even i f the Szene has moved east.
Nearby but isolated from the hoi poll oi is Schl oss
Charl ottenburg, the resi dence of King Fri edri ch I. This
chapter also covers other parts of western Berlin:
l eafy Wilmersdorf and Schneberg, the centre of
gay Berlin since the days of Christopher Isherwoods
Berlin Stories.
Getting there
Charlottenburgs nerve centre is Zoologischer Bahnhof
station, along the main west-east raised city railway. From
heres its a short walk to many hotels and sights, or else
hop on the M29 bus, going east along Tauentzienstrae
and west down Kurfrstendamm.
Pocket Walk
Explore Charlottenburg from Zoologischer Garten station.
Walk east to Brei tschei dplatz for the ruins and modern
reincarnation of the Kaiser Wilhel m Memorial Church.
Strol l fur ther east down Tauent zi enstrae for the
KaDeWe department store and other upmarket shops,
or head west al ong Kantstrae to l eafy Savi gnypl atz
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